Trip Observations: My wonderful month in a Paris apartment with trips to Bayeux, Bruges, Chartres
Nov 3rd, 2008, 08:17 AM
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Trip Observations: My wonderful month in a Paris apartment with trips to Bayeux, Bruges, Chartres
I just returned from spending four fantastic weeks in Paris to celebrate my 50th birthday.
I want to thank everyone on this Forum who gave advice and suggestions. They helped make the trip a success. Here are a few observations that might aide others in their trip planning--
October was a perfect month to be in Paris. The weather was temperate until the last week. We had the benefit of Daylight Savings Time. (Though it took three days for us to realize the rest of Europe had "fallen back" an hour!) The dollar gained against the Euro throughout the month, which really helped.
We rented the Eiffel Hideaway one-bedroom apartment from Vacation in Paris. I found them good to work with. Their Paris-based team was very responsive. As a US-based traveler, I appreciated the convenience of paying in US currency using a credit card.
The apartment is super-convenient, located right off the Rue Cler. I always stay in the 7th and chose this apartment for its location. It’s well-appointed with comfortable beds, one full and one half-bath, reasonable seating and a basic kitchen with a microwave and a two-burner portable electric stove. It’s quiet and clean. There’s no washer/dryer but the Laundromat is close by and easy to use. I think the apartment might be on the small side for four people for more than a few days, unless it’s a family. I also peeked at the studio apartment in the same building and it looked great too. I’m happy to provide more info about the apartment if anyone is interested.
The benefit of having a kitchen was immense – both financially and for the pleasure of enjoying fresh food direct from the market. It was fun to do the daily shopping and we usually included a prepared dish from one of the charcuteries as a way to try new things. The meals we cooked ourselves tasted better than they do at home. We decided it was the “freshness factor”, the soil and the French sensibility about food. Or maybe it was all the wine…..
I found the Rue Cler changed since my last visit two years ago. Food vendors and neighborhood stores are being replaced by cafes and upscale boutiques. I hope this doesn’t continue, else the whole point of the market street is lost. Visit the Rue de Levis in the 17th (Metro Villiers) for a more interesting neighborhood market.
Eurail passes and the TGV or Thalys; Get your seat reservations ASAP to insure you get the train you want. There are a certain number of seats available on each train for Eurail pass holders, so last-minute train choices are very limited. It’s similar to the way airlines designate seats for Frequent Flier tickets. I don’t think this is a problem with local trains that don’t require a reservation.
Ladies; If you’re a US-size 14 to 20, I found the best selection of clothing at the main Gallerie Lafayette, 3rd floor. The Bon Marche was more expensive and had a smaller selection.
I think Paris – and Parisians – are more relaxed. I saw lots of fashionable French ladies looking spectacular in jeans and flats. Not one waiter got haughty when I ordered only a “plat” for dinner (I regret that I can’t eat a three- or four-course meal anymore) No odd looks if I requested a “café-crème” after a meal, and it’s easier to find a meal at odd hours. Sales associates in stores were less rigid and much more helpful. (Even at the Gallerie Lafayette!)
This time, I decided I didn’t care if I looked like a tourist. I used to worry about this, but what’s the point – I AM a tourist! I wore comfortable clothes that looked presentable. (though I drew the line at sneakers and wore good leather shoes) I carried my camera at all times. I asked for directions when I was lost, and explanations when I was confused. It worked for me and I had a less stressful trip by giving up the pretence that I was anything but a paying visitor.
We got great haircuts from Patrick at Carre Noir on Avenue de Tourville by the Ecole Militaire metro stop.
My birthday meal at Le Florimond was as wonderful as I knew it would be. This restaurant never disappoints me.
French men don’t wear baseball caps. I confess I found this refreshing.
Don’t count on getting a taxi at the Taxi stops. It’s hit and miss.
After years of visiting Paris, I finally did the boat-ride on the Seine – and it was wonderful! In fact, we took two boats. First with the Bateaux Parisienne (1hr, 11 euro) and on another day, we used the BatoBus as our mode of transportation (one day pass – 12 euro). We rode the BatoBus for a full circuit since it was raining, then “hopped off” at the stops. The stops are very convenient to major sites and it’s a delightful way to see the city while getting around.
Bayeux – We stayed at the Hotel Reine Mathilde in the center of town. It was comfortable and clean. Parking was no problem. I recommend it. We dined at Le Petit’ Resto and had a very interesting meal. The beauty of this part of Normandy, and seeing the D-Day Landing Beaches makes the investment in a rental car well worth the cost.
www.hotel-bayeux-reinemathilde.fr
Chartres – We stayed at the Hotel Chatelet Chartres near the train station. Very comfortable, well-appointed and great location for seeing the Cathedral and the old town. I recommend it. www.hotelchatelet.com/
Bruges – It’s a beautiful, walk-able town with great food, and greater beer! We stayed overnight, but it can be done as a daytrip from Paris. I don’t recommend the Hotel Cordoeanier (A RS recommendation). I am not fussy about hotels, but this hotel was just too basic. Dark rooms, thin towels, broken soap dispenser in the bathroom, lights that don’t work in the bedroom… While the location is great, I think there are better choices in Bruges.
It was a wonderful trip, and an excellent experience and I’d do it all again next week if I could. I’m happy to provide any additional information that might be helpful.
I want to thank everyone on this Forum who gave advice and suggestions. They helped make the trip a success. Here are a few observations that might aide others in their trip planning--
October was a perfect month to be in Paris. The weather was temperate until the last week. We had the benefit of Daylight Savings Time. (Though it took three days for us to realize the rest of Europe had "fallen back" an hour!) The dollar gained against the Euro throughout the month, which really helped.
We rented the Eiffel Hideaway one-bedroom apartment from Vacation in Paris. I found them good to work with. Their Paris-based team was very responsive. As a US-based traveler, I appreciated the convenience of paying in US currency using a credit card.
The apartment is super-convenient, located right off the Rue Cler. I always stay in the 7th and chose this apartment for its location. It’s well-appointed with comfortable beds, one full and one half-bath, reasonable seating and a basic kitchen with a microwave and a two-burner portable electric stove. It’s quiet and clean. There’s no washer/dryer but the Laundromat is close by and easy to use. I think the apartment might be on the small side for four people for more than a few days, unless it’s a family. I also peeked at the studio apartment in the same building and it looked great too. I’m happy to provide more info about the apartment if anyone is interested.
The benefit of having a kitchen was immense – both financially and for the pleasure of enjoying fresh food direct from the market. It was fun to do the daily shopping and we usually included a prepared dish from one of the charcuteries as a way to try new things. The meals we cooked ourselves tasted better than they do at home. We decided it was the “freshness factor”, the soil and the French sensibility about food. Or maybe it was all the wine…..
I found the Rue Cler changed since my last visit two years ago. Food vendors and neighborhood stores are being replaced by cafes and upscale boutiques. I hope this doesn’t continue, else the whole point of the market street is lost. Visit the Rue de Levis in the 17th (Metro Villiers) for a more interesting neighborhood market.
Eurail passes and the TGV or Thalys; Get your seat reservations ASAP to insure you get the train you want. There are a certain number of seats available on each train for Eurail pass holders, so last-minute train choices are very limited. It’s similar to the way airlines designate seats for Frequent Flier tickets. I don’t think this is a problem with local trains that don’t require a reservation.
Ladies; If you’re a US-size 14 to 20, I found the best selection of clothing at the main Gallerie Lafayette, 3rd floor. The Bon Marche was more expensive and had a smaller selection.
I think Paris – and Parisians – are more relaxed. I saw lots of fashionable French ladies looking spectacular in jeans and flats. Not one waiter got haughty when I ordered only a “plat” for dinner (I regret that I can’t eat a three- or four-course meal anymore) No odd looks if I requested a “café-crème” after a meal, and it’s easier to find a meal at odd hours. Sales associates in stores were less rigid and much more helpful. (Even at the Gallerie Lafayette!)
This time, I decided I didn’t care if I looked like a tourist. I used to worry about this, but what’s the point – I AM a tourist! I wore comfortable clothes that looked presentable. (though I drew the line at sneakers and wore good leather shoes) I carried my camera at all times. I asked for directions when I was lost, and explanations when I was confused. It worked for me and I had a less stressful trip by giving up the pretence that I was anything but a paying visitor.
We got great haircuts from Patrick at Carre Noir on Avenue de Tourville by the Ecole Militaire metro stop.
My birthday meal at Le Florimond was as wonderful as I knew it would be. This restaurant never disappoints me.
French men don’t wear baseball caps. I confess I found this refreshing.
Don’t count on getting a taxi at the Taxi stops. It’s hit and miss.
After years of visiting Paris, I finally did the boat-ride on the Seine – and it was wonderful! In fact, we took two boats. First with the Bateaux Parisienne (1hr, 11 euro) and on another day, we used the BatoBus as our mode of transportation (one day pass – 12 euro). We rode the BatoBus for a full circuit since it was raining, then “hopped off” at the stops. The stops are very convenient to major sites and it’s a delightful way to see the city while getting around.
Bayeux – We stayed at the Hotel Reine Mathilde in the center of town. It was comfortable and clean. Parking was no problem. I recommend it. We dined at Le Petit’ Resto and had a very interesting meal. The beauty of this part of Normandy, and seeing the D-Day Landing Beaches makes the investment in a rental car well worth the cost.
www.hotel-bayeux-reinemathilde.fr
Chartres – We stayed at the Hotel Chatelet Chartres near the train station. Very comfortable, well-appointed and great location for seeing the Cathedral and the old town. I recommend it. www.hotelchatelet.com/
Bruges – It’s a beautiful, walk-able town with great food, and greater beer! We stayed overnight, but it can be done as a daytrip from Paris. I don’t recommend the Hotel Cordoeanier (A RS recommendation). I am not fussy about hotels, but this hotel was just too basic. Dark rooms, thin towels, broken soap dispenser in the bathroom, lights that don’t work in the bedroom… While the location is great, I think there are better choices in Bruges.
It was a wonderful trip, and an excellent experience and I’d do it all again next week if I could. I’m happy to provide any additional information that might be helpful.
Nov 5th, 2008, 07:09 AM
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Plafield, we had the perfect Belgian meal, hearty and delicious in intimate surroundings, at De Vlaamsche Pot. I had wonderful Waterzoi (chicken in a pot) and my husband had beer beef stew with fries. Wow! People around us were having late afternoon tea with Belgian waffles that looked divine. Not too expensive, warm, easy to walk to from our Hotel Heritage...a great hotel with an incredible breakfast buffet w. champagne. Wish I had purchased more chocolates at Dumon.
Nov 7th, 2008, 06:02 PM
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Read your trip report with great interest, Julie! I have a secret desire to rent an apartment in Paris and stay a while! Thanks for sharing your experience here.
Did you retain your Paris apartment while you went to Bayeux, Bruges and Chartres? How many nights were you in each location? How did you get to Chartes and Bruges?
2010
Did you retain your Paris apartment while you went to Bayeux, Bruges and Chartres? How many nights were you in each location? How did you get to Chartes and Bruges?
2010
Nov 11th, 2008, 05:01 PM
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Apologies for the delay in responding to inquiries. Getting back into "real life" has taken a toll. I stay sane at work by revisiting the trip photos. It really helps...
Plafield, I need to check my receipts to find the name of the restaurant in Bruges that we liked so well. I'll followup.
2010, I planned the trip to minimize the number of nights away from our apartment to help control costs. On the day we arrived, we went directly to Bayeux from CDG by rental car. We spent two nights in Bayeux. On the third day we drove to Chartres (via Illiers-Combray for a stop at the Proust Museum), turned in the car, and spent the night. Next day, we gathered our luggage and caught the train from Chartres to Paris and took posession of our apartment, where we "based" for 21 glorious days.
For the overnight to Bruges, we took the high-speed Thalys train to Brussels, then caught a local train to Bruges. We were able to get a direct train from Bruges to Paris for our return trip.
We also did a daytrip to Strasbourg on the TGV.
Again, I highly recommend taking an apartment for your stay in Paris. It was marvellous.
Plafield, I need to check my receipts to find the name of the restaurant in Bruges that we liked so well. I'll followup.
2010, I planned the trip to minimize the number of nights away from our apartment to help control costs. On the day we arrived, we went directly to Bayeux from CDG by rental car. We spent two nights in Bayeux. On the third day we drove to Chartres (via Illiers-Combray for a stop at the Proust Museum), turned in the car, and spent the night. Next day, we gathered our luggage and caught the train from Chartres to Paris and took posession of our apartment, where we "based" for 21 glorious days.
For the overnight to Bruges, we took the high-speed Thalys train to Brussels, then caught a local train to Bruges. We were able to get a direct train from Bruges to Paris for our return trip.
We also did a daytrip to Strasbourg on the TGV.
Again, I highly recommend taking an apartment for your stay in Paris. It was marvellous.
Dec 4th, 2008, 07:11 PM
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Hi Julie7963, from landineen in the Southwedge, glad you had a great time. I love Belgium! We visit our friends in Amsterdam from time to time and we always make a trip south. Happy 50, I have 6 more years to go.
Dec 4th, 2008, 09:05 PM
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Hi Julie
Can you give some detail about your apartment (and the studio you checked out)? I agree that being able to cook that wonderful fresh produce adds an extra dimension to the Parisienne experience!
Many thanks, Di
Can you give some detail about your apartment (and the studio you checked out)? I agree that being able to cook that wonderful fresh produce adds an extra dimension to the Parisienne experience!
Many thanks, Di
Dec 4th, 2008, 09:21 PM
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Julie - thanks for posting your report. I'm glad you were able to take advantage of the low exchange rates. We spent 2+ weeks in France in August and because of the high exchange rate, everything was so expensive.
We stayed in the Marais this time and, like you, I prefer to stay in the 7th. It is the more touristy area, but hey, I'm a tourist and I want to see the tourist sites.
Thanks for reminding me about Bruges. It's been on my list for a long time, but I'd sort of forgotten about it...
We stayed in the Marais this time and, like you, I prefer to stay in the 7th. It is the more touristy area, but hey, I'm a tourist and I want to see the tourist sites.
Thanks for reminding me about Bruges. It's been on my list for a long time, but I'd sort of forgotten about it...
