Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere
May 1st, 2005, 09:27 PM
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Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere
I just read this very charming book (by the renowned travel writer Jan Morris):
Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/B0001PBYOA
It's not that far from Venice, and Ryanair has a flight from London Stansted to Trieste, but it seems way less traveled than many places in Italy. I did a search here and some people have visited it, but it seems way down the list.
The book made Trieste sound fascinating both historically and currently. It sounds as if it's central European and Italian and Balkan in one.
For objectivity, I should point out this dissenting review:
http://tinyurl.com/8spe5
Anyone planning on going? Anyone who's read the book and either agrees or disagrees?
I can't think of getting back to Italy for a long time yet, but based on this book and a few things I have read elsewhere, I'd like to visit.
Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere
http://www.amazon.com/exec/obidos/tg...l/-/B0001PBYOA
It's not that far from Venice, and Ryanair has a flight from London Stansted to Trieste, but it seems way less traveled than many places in Italy. I did a search here and some people have visited it, but it seems way down the list.
The book made Trieste sound fascinating both historically and currently. It sounds as if it's central European and Italian and Balkan in one.
For objectivity, I should point out this dissenting review:
http://tinyurl.com/8spe5
Anyone planning on going? Anyone who's read the book and either agrees or disagrees?
I can't think of getting back to Italy for a long time yet, but based on this book and a few things I have read elsewhere, I'd like to visit.
May 1st, 2005, 09:57 PM
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Hi WillTravel, Trieste is just a couple of hours from Venice. But you are correct, it is not a city that most travellers go to. Trieste does have quite a historical past. A blending of different cultures.
A family member by marriage mother who was Russian was born in Trieste during WWII in a refuge camp. And a close Italian friend of mine who married a few years ago now lives in Trieste, their apartment overlooks the harbor and the piazza. I did not get there the last time I was in Italy. unfortunatly. Stupid me!!!! But I will go there next time.
I hope that you too can visit Trieste. Be aware of the high winds there though. They are so bad that the walk ways have handrails. I forget the Italian name for the winds, but they are very wicked.
I have a beautiful book about Trieste that was given to me by my friend's fiance (before they were married) when I was in Veneto on my birthday. I have not read the book "Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere". I will see if I can get it at my library. Trieste has quite a history, some good and some bad. But all interesting.
Thanks for posting this thread with all the information.
And I sure hope you can get back to Italy as soon as possible.
A family member by marriage mother who was Russian was born in Trieste during WWII in a refuge camp. And a close Italian friend of mine who married a few years ago now lives in Trieste, their apartment overlooks the harbor and the piazza. I did not get there the last time I was in Italy. unfortunatly. Stupid me!!!! But I will go there next time.
I hope that you too can visit Trieste. Be aware of the high winds there though. They are so bad that the walk ways have handrails. I forget the Italian name for the winds, but they are very wicked.
I have a beautiful book about Trieste that was given to me by my friend's fiance (before they were married) when I was in Veneto on my birthday. I have not read the book "Trieste and the Meaning of Nowhere". I will see if I can get it at my library. Trieste has quite a history, some good and some bad. But all interesting.
Thanks for posting this thread with all the information.
And I sure hope you can get back to Italy as soon as possible.
May 1st, 2005, 10:41 PM
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LoveItaly, thanks for your personal report on Trieste. The winds you are thinking of are called the "bora". Apparently people have often felt pretty debilitated by those winds - your description makes it seem more vivid.
I can't complain about not getting to Italy soon - I've been lucky enough to have several trips to Europe in the past two or three years and now going with my daughter this summer (but not to Italy). Now I've got to let my vacation time accumulate again
. But my one trip to Italy was so terrific - it did beat everywhere else I've been - and I can't seem to stop reading ever more about Italy since I returned.
I can't complain about not getting to Italy soon - I've been lucky enough to have several trips to Europe in the past two or three years and now going with my daughter this summer (but not to Italy). Now I've got to let my vacation time accumulate again
. But my one trip to Italy was so terrific - it did beat everywhere else I've been - and I can't seem to stop reading ever more about Italy since I returned.
May 1st, 2005, 10:55 PM
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Hi WillTravel, yes, la bora. Thanks for your post. Since I read your original post and answered it my mind as been asking "what is the name of the wind" LOL. Rather like trying to recall the name of a song. It has been driving me crazy. So again, mille grazie!
I hope both you and I will get to Trieste. The piazza is suppose to be another "living room" of Italy. It sounds and looks beautiful. I sure wish you and your daugher a beautiful trip to Europe. Take good care.
I hope both you and I will get to Trieste. The piazza is suppose to be another "living room" of Italy. It sounds and looks beautiful. I sure wish you and your daugher a beautiful trip to Europe. Take good care.
May 1st, 2005, 10:58 PM
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It's clear from the hostile review you quote that anyone venturing into these waters needs a very thick skin. But let's risk it.
Personally, I found the book told me more about the Jan Morris of advancing years than about Trieste. And on my few, short, visits to the place, it strikes me these days not so much as all three cultures rolled into one as all three cultures quietly held at bay, leaving little more than a rather dull place with a lot of 19th century architecture and a fairly character-free civic culture. If you want proper coffee houses, or THE great Italian seaport, Vienna or Venice are pretty much round the corner. Why mess about with Trieste's pale imitations, when the real things are so close?
What Morris describes is what USED to be in Trieste. She finds its current backwater status appealing to how she feels about life these days. Whereas virtually all his/her previous books have made me want to go to the place concerned instantly (or, in the case of Manhattan '45, find a time machine), Trieste merely confirmed my belief that if you're not depressed already, a few days in Trieste will make sure you are.
Personally, I found the book told me more about the Jan Morris of advancing years than about Trieste. And on my few, short, visits to the place, it strikes me these days not so much as all three cultures rolled into one as all three cultures quietly held at bay, leaving little more than a rather dull place with a lot of 19th century architecture and a fairly character-free civic culture. If you want proper coffee houses, or THE great Italian seaport, Vienna or Venice are pretty much round the corner. Why mess about with Trieste's pale imitations, when the real things are so close?
What Morris describes is what USED to be in Trieste. She finds its current backwater status appealing to how she feels about life these days. Whereas virtually all his/her previous books have made me want to go to the place concerned instantly (or, in the case of Manhattan '45, find a time machine), Trieste merely confirmed my belief that if you're not depressed already, a few days in Trieste will make sure you are.
May 1st, 2005, 11:07 PM
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Trieste is a lovely city. Its history as a major trade center has left it with very interesting architecture, a very attractive fort and an old basilica up on the hill. Ther are many good restaurants and cafes and, of course, those glorius views of the sea.
There is much to do in the area, caves, castles, wineries and my favorite little village in that part of Italy, the old fishing village, Muggia.
If you travel to Trieste from Venice by auto, stops at the Roman ruins at Aquillea and another old fishing village, Grado are worthwhile. The mosaic floors which have now been completely restored at the basilica in Aquillea are marvelous. This is a very worthwhile area to visit.
There is much to do in the area, caves, castles, wineries and my favorite little village in that part of Italy, the old fishing village, Muggia.
If you travel to Trieste from Venice by auto, stops at the Roman ruins at Aquillea and another old fishing village, Grado are worthwhile. The mosaic floors which have now been completely restored at the basilica in Aquillea are marvelous. This is a very worthwhile area to visit.
May 1st, 2005, 11:09 PM
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Well LOL, I am sure not depressed and neither is WillTravel. And come to think about it neither are my friends in Trieste. They live there as his grandfather started an oilbrokerage business before the turn of the last century and the family are quite happy and pleased with their life,thank you.
But thanks for sharing your thoughts, although I am not sure what exactly you are trying to convey. CinCin!
But thanks for sharing your thoughts, although I am not sure what exactly you are trying to convey. CinCin!
May 1st, 2005, 11:42 PM
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joegri, thank you for your post. The information you posted makes me more then ever want to go to Trieste and the surronding area. My friend who moved their from the area of Veneto when she got married sure loves Trieste, except maybe for the wind. Her apartment looks out at the Adriatic Sea and it sounds so delightful. Best wishes.
May 2nd, 2005, 09:19 AM
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LoveItaly, when you go to the library you might also like to get <i>Venice</i> by Jan Morris as well. Truly an excellent book.
It's true that in the Trieste book Morris is filtering it through her own experience. Perhaps she has never felt at home anywhere - being Welsh but educated and working in an English milieu, having a career that involved constant travel to dozens of countries, having a sex change in midlife, etc. So the discussion of Trieste as being a place that doesn't really fit anywhere is no doubt personal. I think that might be what flanneruk is referring to.
I looked up Trieste events at www.charta.it and saw a bunch that looked interesting and not too badly priced.
It's true that in the Trieste book Morris is filtering it through her own experience. Perhaps she has never felt at home anywhere - being Welsh but educated and working in an English milieu, having a career that involved constant travel to dozens of countries, having a sex change in midlife, etc. So the discussion of Trieste as being a place that doesn't really fit anywhere is no doubt personal. I think that might be what flanneruk is referring to.
I looked up Trieste events at www.charta.it and saw a bunch that looked interesting and not too badly priced.
May 2nd, 2005, 09:35 AM
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I too am interested in Trieste. My great grandmother (deceased) we born there and lived there as a child. She then married a man from Slovenia (at the time the former Yugoslavia) I would love to visit both areas and reconnect with family and old roots.
May 2nd, 2005, 09:57 AM
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Hi,
we had been to Trieste years ago, and I donīt know why, but my sister has always wanted to return there.
We finally got there last July (of course it helped that I have a very good friend there and he was most helpful with our planning) and we liked it a lot.
We stayed at a very small and simple family hotel in Muggia, very near to the slovenian frontier ( Albergo Sole ). As we drove there from Spain, we found it very handy to go on day trips to Slovenia and Croatia (lots of great swims in Piran).
On our way there, our friend recommended stopping at Aquileia. We werentīt able to get into the basilic, because of a choir contest, but the mosaic rests and the old roman canal was amazing.
Trieste itself was fine. Good restaurants and bookshops. We loved the Caffe degli Specchi at the great square by the sea.
We loved seafood, and we found that the fish and seafood selection there was outstanding.
We found funny ( and "dangerous" ) that the Trieste dialect has a lot of words from the spanish, so we managed even better.
We missed on the Risiera di San Saba (the only death camp in Italy) and on getting to some concert at the Teatro Verdi.
It is not your typical Italy destination, and I donīt know if I would recommend it to a newbie, but it was certainly a great holiday for us, and I suspect that we will go there again (we didnīt get into all the slovenian caves, and we still have a lot of swimming to do there).
http://www.triestetourism.it/
http://www.trieste.com/
http://triestemia.com/
http://www.teatroverdi-trieste.com/
Rgds, Cova
we had been to Trieste years ago, and I donīt know why, but my sister has always wanted to return there.
We finally got there last July (of course it helped that I have a very good friend there and he was most helpful with our planning) and we liked it a lot.
We stayed at a very small and simple family hotel in Muggia, very near to the slovenian frontier ( Albergo Sole ). As we drove there from Spain, we found it very handy to go on day trips to Slovenia and Croatia (lots of great swims in Piran).
On our way there, our friend recommended stopping at Aquileia. We werentīt able to get into the basilic, because of a choir contest, but the mosaic rests and the old roman canal was amazing.
Trieste itself was fine. Good restaurants and bookshops. We loved the Caffe degli Specchi at the great square by the sea.
We loved seafood, and we found that the fish and seafood selection there was outstanding.
We found funny ( and "dangerous" ) that the Trieste dialect has a lot of words from the spanish, so we managed even better.
We missed on the Risiera di San Saba (the only death camp in Italy) and on getting to some concert at the Teatro Verdi.
It is not your typical Italy destination, and I donīt know if I would recommend it to a newbie, but it was certainly a great holiday for us, and I suspect that we will go there again (we didnīt get into all the slovenian caves, and we still have a lot of swimming to do there).
http://www.triestetourism.it/
http://www.trieste.com/
http://triestemia.com/
http://www.teatroverdi-trieste.com/
Rgds, Cova
May 2nd, 2005, 04:13 PM
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WillTravel: Please excuse my spelling of Aquileia. It would be a very worthwhile day trip from Trieste or a stop in route from Venice.
We were in Trieste for three days in late August and experienced no wind to speak of. Actually, our weather was quite nice.
We were in Trieste for three days in late August and experienced no wind to speak of. Actually, our weather was quite nice.
May 2nd, 2005, 04:24 PM
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I loved Trieste. It's decidedly untouristy. I'm told a lot of Slovenians and Croatians go there to shop. As mentioned already, lots of interesting things to see; caves, castles, ruins, gardens. It wasn't windy when I was there.
May 2nd, 2005, 06:59 PM
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This is such an interesting thread, thanks for starting it WillTravel as normally one does not read much about Trieste. As I said I wish I had gone there during my last trip to Italy but for sure I will next time.
The winds, la bora, does not occur every day of the year. But per my friend (from Veneto) who now lives there and also my Roman born and raised SIL, when the wind blows it is horrendous. Thus the handrails to help pedestrians "not blow away" so to speak.
WillTravel, thank for the book suggestions. I will see if I can get them. I collect books regarding Italy but often first check them out of the library to see if it is one I want to add to my collection. And family members have sure added to my collection, birthday and Christmas presents etc.
I have enjoyed reading the post from those of you who have visited Trieste and the surronding areas. A nice change from Rome/Florence/Venice.
Happy travels everyone!
The winds, la bora, does not occur every day of the year. But per my friend (from Veneto) who now lives there and also my Roman born and raised SIL, when the wind blows it is horrendous. Thus the handrails to help pedestrians "not blow away" so to speak.
WillTravel, thank for the book suggestions. I will see if I can get them. I collect books regarding Italy but often first check them out of the library to see if it is one I want to add to my collection. And family members have sure added to my collection, birthday and Christmas presents etc.
I have enjoyed reading the post from those of you who have visited Trieste and the surronding areas. A nice change from Rome/Florence/Venice.
Happy travels everyone!
May 2nd, 2005, 07:11 PM
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Hi Everyone,
There is a local travel writer that I just love...ok, ENVY would be a better word. The bottom line is that I just LOVE this guy's writing. I don't care WHAT area he writes about -- he always makes me want to visit, and isn't that the sign of a wonderful travel writer? Here's the link, you decide!
Melodie
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cg...RG7994B941.DTL
There is a local travel writer that I just love...ok, ENVY would be a better word. The bottom line is that I just LOVE this guy's writing. I don't care WHAT area he writes about -- he always makes me want to visit, and isn't that the sign of a wonderful travel writer? Here's the link, you decide!
Melodie
http://sfgate.com/cgi-bin/article.cg...RG7994B941.DTL
May 2nd, 2005, 07:13 PM
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I've never been there, but my daughter flew in there on her way to Siena where she is in the U. and she loved it. It was really a fluke that she went--or rather an airline strike that made flying into Venice or Florence very expensive and she got a very good price on Ryanair (until they added the extra charges for her luggage--but it's hard to travel light when you're going for at least 6 months). We're going to meet her in a few days (I'M SO EXCITED) and perhaps she'll share her impressions with all of you.
May 2nd, 2005, 08:06 PM
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artlover, are you meeting your daughter in Italy? It sounds like you are. How exciting. A trip report from you and also from your daughter regarding Trieste would be wonderful.
And Wlzmatilda, that would be the SF Chronical travel writer Jack Flynn? I think I vaguely remember an article about Trieste, and the surronding areas, bus trips etc. He is a great travel writer.
Happy travel dreams everyone!
And Wlzmatilda, that would be the SF Chronical travel writer Jack Flynn? I think I vaguely remember an article about Trieste, and the surronding areas, bus trips etc. He is a great travel writer.
Happy travel dreams everyone!
May 2nd, 2005, 08:26 PM
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That was a great article, Melodie. Thanks for posting it. And I too have found it interesting to hear about Trieste from those who've been there.
One question - with the climate and those winds, I suppose a winter visit isn't a good idea? Or would you be okay with a scarf, gloves, and a good coat?
One question - with the climate and those winds, I suppose a winter visit isn't a good idea? Or would you be okay with a scarf, gloves, and a good coat?
May 2nd, 2005, 09:10 PM
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Hi WillTravel, this I know. Trieste of course is situated along the Adriatic Sea. To the north are the mountains. It is cold, blustery and rainy in Trieste in winter. Not a place where you could sit at an outdoor cafe for example. Or enjoy walking around. I wouldn't personally visit Trieste during the winter months.
May 2nd, 2005, 09:28 PM
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What you say makes perfect sense, LoveItaly. I'm thinking way ahead and of course it's somewhat more convenient and cheaper for me to travel in the winter, but there are some places that this is not such a great idea for. If I visited Trieste, I think I'd try to do central Europe on the same trip (like Ljubljana and Prague and Budapest) - none of those sound like great cold-weather destinations!
