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Travel Hungry, not the country

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I love travel, I love Europe, I love traveling Europe inexpensively. Over the years I have posted questions, given answers and hopefully contributed to someone's travel experience in some positive way. I need a little help.

I'm travel hungry. Yet, there is a twist. I need to find a place that is not too crowded with enough to do to keep interest peaked (for me), lots of hiking and walking (for him), good food and wine. Someplace where the locals are friendly and where we might have a few day trips to sites or ruins.

I've thought about northern Italy, northern Spain, parts of Portugal, Malta, so far. I've been to Lake Bled which would hold alot of natural beauty for him with the small city feel that I enjoy. I have traveled a good bit throughout Europe, my partner - northern England, and Edinburgh, Scotland, 20 years ago. We are both in our 50's and physically fit. He loves bronze work, I adore the arts - all of it. I'm not looking for a tour which would be too structured but rather a meander without a guide but guidance.

Thoughts, would love some ideas.

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