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Transylvania

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I'm dying to go to Romania, specifically Transylvania to see not only the country and the culture, but to see the setting of Bram Stoker's novel. I'm NOT looking for cheesy 'Dracula' tours and knick knacks, I'm fully versed in the history of the area and the difference between fact and fiction.

However I do absolutely adore old-school vampire lore, and Bram Stoker's Dracula was so beautifully descriptive that I've been dying to see it for myself ever since. I have all the time in the world to plan an old school Vampire Lover's trip and am looking for any and all suggestions on when to go, where to go, what to do, and any other interesting vampire destinations people would like to suggest. Please- nothing from Twilight.

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