TR: yk & parents 5 days in London & Canterbury, November 2011
Nov 17th, 2011, 02:12 PM
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TR: yk & parents 5 days in London & Canterbury, November 2011
This is the second half of our recent 11-day trip to Europe. We (my parents, me, DH) spent our first 6 days in Barcelona. The TR for that segment can be found here:
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ith-photos.cfm
DH flew home at the end of our week in Barcelona. My parents & I flew on Easyjet from Barcelona to London Gatwick.
<b>Preamble</b>
The impetus of this European trip began in June of this year. My dad received an invitation from University of Surrey to join the school in celebrating its <u>Battersea 120</u> event, and they are offering my father an honorary degree.
Let me backtrack a bit. My father did his PhD in London from 1962-65. At that time, he was enrolled at the Battersea College of Technology. The Battersea College was not a university at that time - back then, there was a scarcity in college spots. So University of London had an agreement with Battersea - the qualified students can study there (under a Univ of London appointed professor), and be awarded degrees from University of London. So, when my father graduated in 1965, his diploma came from Univ of London. A few years after he left, Battersea received a royal charter to open as a University. It moved to Guildford and became University of Surrey.
This year, University of Surrey decides to celebrate the 120th anniv of the founding of Battersea college, and it does so by honoring all past graduates of Battersea College (or Univ of London) and giving each one of them a honorary degree. In the end, several hundred graduates (from class of '41 through '71) RSVP'd to attend.
The ceremony was scheduled for November 2, 2011; hence our European trip was constructed around this occasion.
I have been to London many times - at least 15 or more; I usually go once every year or two. So, there isn't a long list of must-sees for me on this trip. OTOH, my parents haven't spent much time in London, so this trip is partly planned for their interests.
<b>Day 1</b> arrival to London
We landed at Gatwick 20 minutes early at 11:40am. Easyjet leases the cheapest gates (hence the farthest), so we walked and walked and walked ... before we got to the immigration hall and baggage claim. We were at North Terminal, which means that after we picked up our checked luggage, we had to take the monorail over to South Terminal where the train station is. We tried buying our tickets using the automatic machines; however, it turns out the machines do not offer GroupSave discount (buy 2, get 3rd & 4th free), so back to the long snaking line for a ticket agent (£25.20 for 3).
We got on the 1:15pm FCC train (runs every 15 minutes) to London Bridge, then change for the SouthEastern train to Charing Cross. The entire trip took around 30 minutes. We rented a 1BR apartment near Charing Cross via City Holiday Home and the owner and the cleaner were there to meet us.
http://www.cityholidayhome.com/trafa...q-apartment-9/
The apartment is located on a dead-end street 2 blocks from Charing Cross Station, sandwiched between the Strand and the Embankment. The Street name is York Buildings. Because it's a dead-end street (runs into the Embankment Garden), it is extremely quiet at night despite its convenient location. The apartment we chose is on the (US) 4th floor - no elevator. Bedroom has a double bed of poor quality. The living room has a leather sofa which can open up into a double bed; plus a single futon/sofa. The most spacious room in the apartment is the kitchen, with a dining table for 4. The kitchen has a fridge, stove top, tabletop oven, dishwasher, washer/dryer combo, microwave, kettle, and French drip coffee pot. It is adequate for our purpose, and its location makes up for any shortcomings. Our rate for 4 nights was £445, which is quite a bargain for central London.
I probably could have gotten a slightly bigger/nicer apt in London for similar price, but I picked this solely based on its convenient location. It is within walking distance to SoHo, Chinatown, Covent Garden, Leicester Sq; it is <3 min walk to both Charing Cross and Embankment Stations (4 different tube lines to choose from), and it's in such a central location that my parents can go out for walks easily without me and won't get lost.
Kitchen area (view from dining table): http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6872.jpg
Bedroom: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6874.jpg
As the apartment hasn't been thoroughly cleaned yet, we dropped off our luggage and headed for lunch. I took my parents to the Chinese noodle bar in Leicester Sq where I went last year. We each got a bowl of its signature LanZhou hand-pulled noodle soup with beef, which hit the right spot.
<b>Noodle Bar</b> (Chinese)
33 Cranbourn Street (across the street from Leicester Sq tube station Exit 4)
[You can read my review /TR from Nov 2010: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-nov-2010.cfm ]
After lunch, we went over to Royal Opera House to pick up our pre-paid tickets, then went back to Charing Cross station where there is a Mark & Spencer Simply Food supermarket to get groceries.
We headed back to the apartment and took a long afternoon nap - after all, we got up at 6am this morning in Barcelona! When we woke up, we were still full from lunch so we headed straight to Covent Garden for the <b>Royal Ballet's </b>Sleeping Beauty. This is Dad's first return to Covent Garden in 50-odd years, so it's partly a nostalgic visit for him. (He used to go see the opera from the Upper Slips.) I showed them around the old auditorium as well as the new Paul Hamlyn hall. We didn't pre-order food and drinks there, but did get a couple of ice-creams during intermission.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ith-photos.cfm
DH flew home at the end of our week in Barcelona. My parents & I flew on Easyjet from Barcelona to London Gatwick.
<b>Preamble</b>
The impetus of this European trip began in June of this year. My dad received an invitation from University of Surrey to join the school in celebrating its <u>Battersea 120</u> event, and they are offering my father an honorary degree.
Let me backtrack a bit. My father did his PhD in London from 1962-65. At that time, he was enrolled at the Battersea College of Technology. The Battersea College was not a university at that time - back then, there was a scarcity in college spots. So University of London had an agreement with Battersea - the qualified students can study there (under a Univ of London appointed professor), and be awarded degrees from University of London. So, when my father graduated in 1965, his diploma came from Univ of London. A few years after he left, Battersea received a royal charter to open as a University. It moved to Guildford and became University of Surrey.
This year, University of Surrey decides to celebrate the 120th anniv of the founding of Battersea college, and it does so by honoring all past graduates of Battersea College (or Univ of London) and giving each one of them a honorary degree. In the end, several hundred graduates (from class of '41 through '71) RSVP'd to attend.
The ceremony was scheduled for November 2, 2011; hence our European trip was constructed around this occasion.
I have been to London many times - at least 15 or more; I usually go once every year or two. So, there isn't a long list of must-sees for me on this trip. OTOH, my parents haven't spent much time in London, so this trip is partly planned for their interests.
<b>Day 1</b> arrival to London
We landed at Gatwick 20 minutes early at 11:40am. Easyjet leases the cheapest gates (hence the farthest), so we walked and walked and walked ... before we got to the immigration hall and baggage claim. We were at North Terminal, which means that after we picked up our checked luggage, we had to take the monorail over to South Terminal where the train station is. We tried buying our tickets using the automatic machines; however, it turns out the machines do not offer GroupSave discount (buy 2, get 3rd & 4th free), so back to the long snaking line for a ticket agent (£25.20 for 3).
We got on the 1:15pm FCC train (runs every 15 minutes) to London Bridge, then change for the SouthEastern train to Charing Cross. The entire trip took around 30 minutes. We rented a 1BR apartment near Charing Cross via City Holiday Home and the owner and the cleaner were there to meet us.
http://www.cityholidayhome.com/trafa...q-apartment-9/
The apartment is located on a dead-end street 2 blocks from Charing Cross Station, sandwiched between the Strand and the Embankment. The Street name is York Buildings. Because it's a dead-end street (runs into the Embankment Garden), it is extremely quiet at night despite its convenient location. The apartment we chose is on the (US) 4th floor - no elevator. Bedroom has a double bed of poor quality. The living room has a leather sofa which can open up into a double bed; plus a single futon/sofa. The most spacious room in the apartment is the kitchen, with a dining table for 4. The kitchen has a fridge, stove top, tabletop oven, dishwasher, washer/dryer combo, microwave, kettle, and French drip coffee pot. It is adequate for our purpose, and its location makes up for any shortcomings. Our rate for 4 nights was £445, which is quite a bargain for central London.
I probably could have gotten a slightly bigger/nicer apt in London for similar price, but I picked this solely based on its convenient location. It is within walking distance to SoHo, Chinatown, Covent Garden, Leicester Sq; it is <3 min walk to both Charing Cross and Embankment Stations (4 different tube lines to choose from), and it's in such a central location that my parents can go out for walks easily without me and won't get lost.
Kitchen area (view from dining table): http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6872.jpg
Bedroom: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6874.jpg
As the apartment hasn't been thoroughly cleaned yet, we dropped off our luggage and headed for lunch. I took my parents to the Chinese noodle bar in Leicester Sq where I went last year. We each got a bowl of its signature LanZhou hand-pulled noodle soup with beef, which hit the right spot.
<b>Noodle Bar</b> (Chinese)
33 Cranbourn Street (across the street from Leicester Sq tube station Exit 4)
[You can read my review /TR from Nov 2010: http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-nov-2010.cfm ]
After lunch, we went over to Royal Opera House to pick up our pre-paid tickets, then went back to Charing Cross station where there is a Mark & Spencer Simply Food supermarket to get groceries.
We headed back to the apartment and took a long afternoon nap - after all, we got up at 6am this morning in Barcelona! When we woke up, we were still full from lunch so we headed straight to Covent Garden for the <b>Royal Ballet's </b>Sleeping Beauty. This is Dad's first return to Covent Garden in 50-odd years, so it's partly a nostalgic visit for him. (He used to go see the opera from the Upper Slips.) I showed them around the old auditorium as well as the new Paul Hamlyn hall. We didn't pre-order food and drinks there, but did get a couple of ice-creams during intermission.
Nov 17th, 2011, 06:58 PM
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<b>Day 2</b> Museums, fish & chips etc
Today is our "free" day for sightseeing. We started our day by taking the RV1 bus from the Strand over to <b>Tate Modern</b>, where Mom & Dad have never been to before. My only must-see on this London trip is the <b>Gerhard Richter: Panorama</b> exhibition there.
http://www.tate.org.uk/modern/exhibi...r/default.shtm
Although Tate Modern is free, there is admission charge for special exhibitions. I told M&D to visit the permanent collection while I go see the Richter show. The admission is £12.70 + £4 audioguide.
I LOVE this show - IMHO, Richter is probably one of the best living artists of our time. It goes chronologically, starting with his signature photopaintings in the 1960s. On view in this room includes Table 1962 from Harvard's Sackler Museum. Richter numbered this as his first painting. There are also several photopaintings of members of his family - many linked to the Nazi regime one way or another. The next few galleries hang more works from the 1960s, including the famous Ema (after Duchamp's Nude descending a staircase) and several bombed landscapes.
Next is a room dedicated to Richter's Grey paintings from the 1970s. Although all the works are grey, they are different in terms of texture, technique, and medium. The following galleries have portraits, abstract paintings, and the beginning of his "squeegee" abstract works. We next come to a room filled with the haunting 15 Baader Meinhof paintings from MoMA.
Towards the later part of his career, we get more squeegee abstract paintings, but also his September painting which was his tribute to September 11. One work from 2004 I particularly like is 11 panes. It is simply 11 panes of clear glass stacked together leaning on the wall. But when I stand in front of it and look at my reflection - the effect is blurred yet recognizable. It reminds me of his photopaintings from 4 decades earlier of objects that he deliberately blurred. I found 11 panes wonderfully poetic.
It took me about 90 minutes to go through the show, though I could have taken more time if I hadn't promised my parents I'd be done by then. They had thoroughly enjoyed the permanent collection!
We walked to the Southwark tube station and headed to Oxford Circus. Dad was reminiscing about London's fish & chips, so I did some research and found a recommended place near Oxford Circus called <b>Golden Union</b>. It is a pure fish & chips place; they serve little of anything else. All the patrons, as far as I can tell, appear to be locals.
http://www.goldenunion.co.uk/
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6887.jpg
We ordered 2 main plates to share: a large cod & chips and a regular plaice & chips, plus a side of mushy peas. I thought it was very good, esp the cod. Lunch was £28.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6889.jpg
After lunch, we stopped by <b>The East India Company</b> on Conduit Street so I could do all my Christmas shopping there for DH's family. I did this last year and the food gifts seemed to be a great hit.
http://www.theeastindiacompany.com/
We then strolled north along Regent Street which turns into Portland Place. One the southern end of Portland Place sits the <b>Broadcasting House</b> - BBC's HQ. A few blocks up is home of <b>RIBA</b> - the Royal Institute of British Architects.
BBC http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6892.jpg
RIBA http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6895.jpg
Another 2 blocks further north, we arrived at our destination - the <b>Institute of Physics</b>. Dad has been a member of IOP for many decades but he has never set foot inside the bldg. We went in for a browse, and the receptionist told us we could visit the members lounge on the 5th floor, which we did. The lounge is pretty non-descript, but good enough for us to rest our feet.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6898.jpg
We then took the tube to South Kensington to the <b>Victoria & Albert Museum</b>. I mainly wanted to show M&D the 3 wonderful dining rooms by Morris, Gamble and Poynter. We ended up getting afternoon tea there with scones. (2 teas, 2 scones were £10.50)
M&D wanted to see the Chinese gallery donated by T.T. Tsui , but it was closed for re-organization. So instead, we went to see the Islamic Middle East galleries and the Ardabil carpet.
It was 5pm and I was getting tired, so I went home for a nap before the opera at 8pm. M&D stayed for a bit longer and then they went to Chinatown to buy some grocery. I went by myself to <b>Royal Opera</b> to see Der Fliegende Holländer (decent singing, decent production). When I returned, I had a bowl of chinese noodles with bok choy. The wonderful thing about the apartment is that it is only 10 minutes by foot to Covent Garden, door-to-door.
Today is our "free" day for sightseeing. We started our day by taking the RV1 bus from the Strand over to <b>Tate Modern</b>, where Mom & Dad have never been to before. My only must-see on this London trip is the <b>Gerhard Richter: Panorama</b> exhibition there.
http://www.tate.org.uk/modern/exhibi...r/default.shtm
Although Tate Modern is free, there is admission charge for special exhibitions. I told M&D to visit the permanent collection while I go see the Richter show. The admission is £12.70 + £4 audioguide.
I LOVE this show - IMHO, Richter is probably one of the best living artists of our time. It goes chronologically, starting with his signature photopaintings in the 1960s. On view in this room includes Table 1962 from Harvard's Sackler Museum. Richter numbered this as his first painting. There are also several photopaintings of members of his family - many linked to the Nazi regime one way or another. The next few galleries hang more works from the 1960s, including the famous Ema (after Duchamp's Nude descending a staircase) and several bombed landscapes.
Next is a room dedicated to Richter's Grey paintings from the 1970s. Although all the works are grey, they are different in terms of texture, technique, and medium. The following galleries have portraits, abstract paintings, and the beginning of his "squeegee" abstract works. We next come to a room filled with the haunting 15 Baader Meinhof paintings from MoMA.
Towards the later part of his career, we get more squeegee abstract paintings, but also his September painting which was his tribute to September 11. One work from 2004 I particularly like is 11 panes. It is simply 11 panes of clear glass stacked together leaning on the wall. But when I stand in front of it and look at my reflection - the effect is blurred yet recognizable. It reminds me of his photopaintings from 4 decades earlier of objects that he deliberately blurred. I found 11 panes wonderfully poetic.
It took me about 90 minutes to go through the show, though I could have taken more time if I hadn't promised my parents I'd be done by then. They had thoroughly enjoyed the permanent collection!
We walked to the Southwark tube station and headed to Oxford Circus. Dad was reminiscing about London's fish & chips, so I did some research and found a recommended place near Oxford Circus called <b>Golden Union</b>. It is a pure fish & chips place; they serve little of anything else. All the patrons, as far as I can tell, appear to be locals.
http://www.goldenunion.co.uk/
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6887.jpg
We ordered 2 main plates to share: a large cod & chips and a regular plaice & chips, plus a side of mushy peas. I thought it was very good, esp the cod. Lunch was £28.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6889.jpg
After lunch, we stopped by <b>The East India Company</b> on Conduit Street so I could do all my Christmas shopping there for DH's family. I did this last year and the food gifts seemed to be a great hit.
http://www.theeastindiacompany.com/
We then strolled north along Regent Street which turns into Portland Place. One the southern end of Portland Place sits the <b>Broadcasting House</b> - BBC's HQ. A few blocks up is home of <b>RIBA</b> - the Royal Institute of British Architects.
BBC http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6892.jpg
RIBA http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6895.jpg
Another 2 blocks further north, we arrived at our destination - the <b>Institute of Physics</b>. Dad has been a member of IOP for many decades but he has never set foot inside the bldg. We went in for a browse, and the receptionist told us we could visit the members lounge on the 5th floor, which we did. The lounge is pretty non-descript, but good enough for us to rest our feet.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6898.jpg
We then took the tube to South Kensington to the <b>Victoria & Albert Museum</b>. I mainly wanted to show M&D the 3 wonderful dining rooms by Morris, Gamble and Poynter. We ended up getting afternoon tea there with scones. (2 teas, 2 scones were £10.50)
M&D wanted to see the Chinese gallery donated by T.T. Tsui , but it was closed for re-organization. So instead, we went to see the Islamic Middle East galleries and the Ardabil carpet.
It was 5pm and I was getting tired, so I went home for a nap before the opera at 8pm. M&D stayed for a bit longer and then they went to Chinatown to buy some grocery. I went by myself to <b>Royal Opera</b> to see Der Fliegende Holländer (decent singing, decent production). When I returned, I had a bowl of chinese noodles with bok choy. The wonderful thing about the apartment is that it is only 10 minutes by foot to Covent Garden, door-to-door.
Nov 17th, 2011, 10:20 PM
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yk - if your Dad has another craving for Fish and Chips?
Woonsocket is a lot closer to home
http://woonsocket.patch.com/listings...ish-fish-chips
I now don't have to post on the 'what's for dinner' thread because I too have a craving for fish and chips so we're headed to RI tomorrow. Not too late though because the queue can be horrendous on a Friday night
Woonsocket is a lot closer to home
http://woonsocket.patch.com/listings...ish-fish-chips
I now don't have to post on the 'what's for dinner' thread because I too have a craving for fish and chips so we're headed to RI tomorrow. Not too late though because the queue can be horrendous on a Friday night
Nov 18th, 2011, 11:21 AM
#6
great start, yk.
I'd never heard of Gerhard Richter nor been to the golden Union fish and chip bar; at £28 for 2 lots of fish and chips i don't think I'm likely to do so any time soon- I think that's even more expensive than Rick Stein!
looking forward to more!
I'd never heard of Gerhard Richter nor been to the golden Union fish and chip bar; at £28 for 2 lots of fish and chips i don't think I'm likely to do so any time soon- I think that's even more expensive than Rick Stein!
looking forward to more!
Nov 18th, 2011, 12:44 PM
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carolyn, LCI, thanks for your kind words.
alya, my parents actually live in Houston; not sure if there's any authentic fish and chips there! Thanks for the tip on the Woonsocket place.
annhig, the 2 orders of fish & chips were for the 3 of us - plenty of food. The £28 bill was total including drinks and side dishes.
alya, my parents actually live in Houston; not sure if there's any authentic fish and chips there! Thanks for the tip on the Woonsocket place.
annhig, the 2 orders of fish & chips were for the 3 of us - plenty of food. The £28 bill was total including drinks and side dishes.
Nov 18th, 2011, 01:07 PM
#8
yk - that's still pretty expensive for fish and chips. we'd expect to pay £12 for that around here!
only £20 even at Rick Stein's -
http://www.rickstein.com/modules/doc...T_IN_Menu.pdf]
you pay a bit more for eating in.
I'm sure it was very nice though.
only £20 even at Rick Stein's -
http://www.rickstein.com/modules/doc...T_IN_Menu.pdf]
you pay a bit more for eating in.
I'm sure it was very nice though.
Nov 18th, 2011, 03:05 PM
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<b>Day 3</b> The BIG Day
Today is the day for the graduation ceremony. It is split up into 2 sessions; one in the morning and one in the afternoon. My dad's ceremony is in the afternoon, so we have the morning to spare.
M&D went for a walk to Buckingham Palace and St James's Park; I stayed behind to do some work on the computer and did some more grocery shopping. We ate an early lunch at the apartment, then walked across the river to Waterloo Station for the train to Guildford.
The University of Surrey is up on a hill from the train station; the Guildford Cathedral is right next to the campus. We had plenty of time to spare, so Dad struck up conversations with other graduates, even though none of them were from his class or his department.
All the graduates put on their hired gown and hood and got seated in the cathedral, arranged by graduation year and last name. When the name is called, the graduate walked up to the front of the altar and shook hands with the Chancellor and vice-Chancellor of the University. The Chancellor is His Royal Highness Duke of Kent. He's the same age of my dad and appears to be very good health.
After the ceremony, we were treated to a reception in a heated tent just outside the Cathedral. Drinks and hors d'oeuvres were served; speeches and toasts were given. We had a nice time chatting with other graduates and their families. I looked around for HRH but I guess he must have left already. It was getting dark and started to rain, so we left the party early to catch our train back to London.
M&D stayed home but I went again to Covent Garden to another opera, La Sonnambula. We had noodle soup, broccoli, and Chinese BBQ pork when I got home.
<b>Day 4</b> Day trip to Canterbury
Today is our last full day in London, and we headed out of town. Dad said he'd like to do a day trip - but left it up to me to pick a destination. I eventually settled on Canterbury which none of us have ever been.
Canterbury is linked to London St Pancras station via the high-speed train since late 2009. The new service, which utilizes the special high-speed track for Eurostar, cuts the travel time to one hour.
We took the 10:44 train (£60 r/t for 3) from St Pancras. The first 40 minutes of the journey is on the high speed track, and we can definitely feel the speed. After the stop at Ashford, the train goes back on regular track and travels at normal speed. We arrived in Canterbury West in under an hour.
High speed train: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6936.jpg
Canterbury is a picturesque, old town surrounded by a fairly intact city wall. As we headed towards the town, we were greeted by the imposing West city gate. Once we pass through the gate, we are on St Peter's Street, a pedestrian-only street flanked by old half-timbered houses.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6938.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6943.jpg
The weather was so nice that even though the boat tours normally cease service at end of October, we saw the tour being offered (in the photo above). We thought we'd take the boat tour later in the day.
It was lunch time and we were lured by the sight of Cornish Pasties, even though we were far from Cornwall. We ate at <b>West Cornwall Pasty</b>, a chain that specializes in pasties and potato wedges. We ordered 2 to share (£10 w/drinks). http://www.westcornwallpasty.co.uk/home/
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6949.jpg
St Peter's Street turns into High Street and we eventually arrived at the Cathedral via Christ Gate. The half-timbered visitors center is right opposite the entrance.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6950.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6952.jpg
The <b>Canterbury Cathedral</b> is made famous by the murder of Thomas Becket, the archbishop of Canterbury, in 1170. Pilgrims have been flocking to Canterbury since, and the pilgrimage is what inspired Geoffrey Chaucer to write The Canterbury Tales.
http://www.canterbury-cathedral.org/
The Cathedral is a hodgepodge of architecture. The oldest surviving part, dating back to the 12th-century, is the crypt. The rest of the 12th-century building was burnt down several years after Becket's death. The "back" of the Cathedral where the choir and the altars are, was built between 1175-1184. Three hundred years later, the Cathedral is extended and the gothic "front" section we see today dates back to the late 1400s.
I had printed out <b>2-for-1</b> vouchers for the Cathedral before I left for this trip; alas, I forgot to bring them with me today. Oh well. http://www.visitkentoffers.co.uk/
The interior of the Cathedral is beautiful. There is plenty to see. We saw the location where Beckett was murdered and the locations of his tomb. In the Trinity Chapel is the resting place for the Black Prince, and Henry IV & his wife. Henry IV was the only king buried in Canterbury Cathedral.
The south facade and south stained glass windows are currently under restoration. The medieval stained glass windows are put on view in the crypt (they are being rotated).
We also visited the Chapter House and the cloisters. We were at the Cathedral for almost 2 hours. By the time we left, the typical English weather had turned sour. We were met with gale-force winds and rain. Obviously a boat tour doesn't seem like a good idea anymore.
Interior: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6958.jpg
Choir screen: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6970.jpg
Fan-vaulted ceiling http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6971.jpg
Stained glass windows: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6961.jpg
Chapter House: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6965.jpg
We decided to walk around the town perimeter by following the city wall. We reached Dane John gardens and the mound - which we hiked up for a lovely view of the town. Further along is the ruin of Canterbury Castle, built during the Norman times.
Walking on top of city wall http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6975.jpg
View from Dane John mound: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6976.jpg
Canterbury castle ruin: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6979.jpg
From the castle, we walked back into the old town, passing by the Heritage Museum and Greyfriars Chapel. On the popular St Margaret's Street, we found <b>Tiny Tim's Tearoom</b> where we stopped in for a proper afternoon tea (with scones, strawberry jam, and clotted cream of course!)
http://tinytimstearoom.com/
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6980.jpg
After tea, we had another 40 minutes to kill, so we went strolling along the King's mile - a cute, cobblestoned street again lined with old houses.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6982.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6988.jpg
We took the 5:25pm train back to London. Dinner that night was Japanese udon at <b>Koya</b> in SoHo. This is another eatery where I had gone to last year. There was a line for tables and we waited for about 15-20 minutes before we got seated. When I ate there before, there was a choice between udon and soba. This time, only udon is offered. Mom and Dad both got hot udon noodle soup. I chose a cold udon with hot broth. And it was really good. The udon noodles are made fresh daily. They have a lovely chewy texture that is missing in those packaged udons one can buy. My broth has the perfect umami. While the hot udon noodle soup is good as well, the noodles there are more cooked and thus lost some of its chewy texture.
http://www.koya.co.uk/
Today is the day for the graduation ceremony. It is split up into 2 sessions; one in the morning and one in the afternoon. My dad's ceremony is in the afternoon, so we have the morning to spare.
M&D went for a walk to Buckingham Palace and St James's Park; I stayed behind to do some work on the computer and did some more grocery shopping. We ate an early lunch at the apartment, then walked across the river to Waterloo Station for the train to Guildford.
The University of Surrey is up on a hill from the train station; the Guildford Cathedral is right next to the campus. We had plenty of time to spare, so Dad struck up conversations with other graduates, even though none of them were from his class or his department.
All the graduates put on their hired gown and hood and got seated in the cathedral, arranged by graduation year and last name. When the name is called, the graduate walked up to the front of the altar and shook hands with the Chancellor and vice-Chancellor of the University. The Chancellor is His Royal Highness Duke of Kent. He's the same age of my dad and appears to be very good health.
After the ceremony, we were treated to a reception in a heated tent just outside the Cathedral. Drinks and hors d'oeuvres were served; speeches and toasts were given. We had a nice time chatting with other graduates and their families. I looked around for HRH but I guess he must have left already. It was getting dark and started to rain, so we left the party early to catch our train back to London.
M&D stayed home but I went again to Covent Garden to another opera, La Sonnambula. We had noodle soup, broccoli, and Chinese BBQ pork when I got home.
<b>Day 4</b> Day trip to Canterbury
Today is our last full day in London, and we headed out of town. Dad said he'd like to do a day trip - but left it up to me to pick a destination. I eventually settled on Canterbury which none of us have ever been.
Canterbury is linked to London St Pancras station via the high-speed train since late 2009. The new service, which utilizes the special high-speed track for Eurostar, cuts the travel time to one hour.
We took the 10:44 train (£60 r/t for 3) from St Pancras. The first 40 minutes of the journey is on the high speed track, and we can definitely feel the speed. After the stop at Ashford, the train goes back on regular track and travels at normal speed. We arrived in Canterbury West in under an hour.
High speed train: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6936.jpg
Canterbury is a picturesque, old town surrounded by a fairly intact city wall. As we headed towards the town, we were greeted by the imposing West city gate. Once we pass through the gate, we are on St Peter's Street, a pedestrian-only street flanked by old half-timbered houses.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6938.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6943.jpg
The weather was so nice that even though the boat tours normally cease service at end of October, we saw the tour being offered (in the photo above). We thought we'd take the boat tour later in the day.
It was lunch time and we were lured by the sight of Cornish Pasties, even though we were far from Cornwall. We ate at <b>West Cornwall Pasty</b>, a chain that specializes in pasties and potato wedges. We ordered 2 to share (£10 w/drinks). http://www.westcornwallpasty.co.uk/home/
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6949.jpg
St Peter's Street turns into High Street and we eventually arrived at the Cathedral via Christ Gate. The half-timbered visitors center is right opposite the entrance.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6950.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6952.jpg
The <b>Canterbury Cathedral</b> is made famous by the murder of Thomas Becket, the archbishop of Canterbury, in 1170. Pilgrims have been flocking to Canterbury since, and the pilgrimage is what inspired Geoffrey Chaucer to write The Canterbury Tales.
http://www.canterbury-cathedral.org/
The Cathedral is a hodgepodge of architecture. The oldest surviving part, dating back to the 12th-century, is the crypt. The rest of the 12th-century building was burnt down several years after Becket's death. The "back" of the Cathedral where the choir and the altars are, was built between 1175-1184. Three hundred years later, the Cathedral is extended and the gothic "front" section we see today dates back to the late 1400s.
I had printed out <b>2-for-1</b> vouchers for the Cathedral before I left for this trip; alas, I forgot to bring them with me today. Oh well. http://www.visitkentoffers.co.uk/
The interior of the Cathedral is beautiful. There is plenty to see. We saw the location where Beckett was murdered and the locations of his tomb. In the Trinity Chapel is the resting place for the Black Prince, and Henry IV & his wife. Henry IV was the only king buried in Canterbury Cathedral.
The south facade and south stained glass windows are currently under restoration. The medieval stained glass windows are put on view in the crypt (they are being rotated).
We also visited the Chapter House and the cloisters. We were at the Cathedral for almost 2 hours. By the time we left, the typical English weather had turned sour. We were met with gale-force winds and rain. Obviously a boat tour doesn't seem like a good idea anymore.
Interior: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6958.jpg
Choir screen: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6970.jpg
Fan-vaulted ceiling http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6971.jpg
Stained glass windows: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6961.jpg
Chapter House: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6965.jpg
We decided to walk around the town perimeter by following the city wall. We reached Dane John gardens and the mound - which we hiked up for a lovely view of the town. Further along is the ruin of Canterbury Castle, built during the Norman times.
Walking on top of city wall http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6975.jpg
View from Dane John mound: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6976.jpg
Canterbury castle ruin: http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6979.jpg
From the castle, we walked back into the old town, passing by the Heritage Museum and Greyfriars Chapel. On the popular St Margaret's Street, we found <b>Tiny Tim's Tearoom</b> where we stopped in for a proper afternoon tea (with scones, strawberry jam, and clotted cream of course!)
http://tinytimstearoom.com/
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6980.jpg
After tea, we had another 40 minutes to kill, so we went strolling along the King's mile - a cute, cobblestoned street again lined with old houses.
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6982.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6988.jpg
We took the 5:25pm train back to London. Dinner that night was Japanese udon at <b>Koya</b> in SoHo. This is another eatery where I had gone to last year. There was a line for tables and we waited for about 15-20 minutes before we got seated. When I ate there before, there was a choice between udon and soba. This time, only udon is offered. Mom and Dad both got hot udon noodle soup. I chose a cold udon with hot broth. And it was really good. The udon noodles are made fresh daily. They have a lovely chewy texture that is missing in those packaged udons one can buy. My broth has the perfect umami. While the hot udon noodle soup is good as well, the noodles there are more cooked and thus lost some of its chewy texture.
http://www.koya.co.uk/
Nov 18th, 2011, 03:34 PM
#10
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<b>Day 5</b> Departure
Mom & Dad have a morning flight out of Heathrow. It is an easy journey via the tube from our apartment - District line from Embankment Station to Hammersmith, then change for Piccadilly line to Heathrow T4. Transferring at Hammersmith is a breeze, as the westbound District & Piccadilly lines stop across one another on the same platform, so all we need to do is alight the District line train, walk 3 feet across the platform, and get on the Piccadilly line train.
I accompanied them as far as Hammersmith station; once they got on their correct train, I went back to the apartment for breakfast, shower, and finish my packing. My plane doesn't leave until 2:40pm, so I had time for a bit of sightseeing in the morning.
I walked over to <b>Two Temple Place</b> - a late Victorian stone mansion built in the Tudor Style. It is now open to the public with an inaugural exhibition on <b>William Morris</b>, with all the artwork coming from the William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow. The WMG - which I visited in 2008 - is currently closed for redevelopment.
http://www.twotempleplace.co.uk/intro.html
http://www.twotempleplace.org/exhibitions.html
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6999.jpg
The interior of Two Temple Place is quite impressive; it's worth a visit on its own. As for the William Morris exhibit; I must say that I don't recognize majority of the works on display! There are a number of embroidered frieze based on 'The Romaunt of the Rose,' stained glass, and drawings. A lot of the pieces were a collaborative effort between William Morris and Edward-Burne Jones. And then of course there are plenty of wallpaper and fabric samples designed by William Morris.
Interior of Two Temple Place:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6998.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6994.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6996.jpg
I returned to the apartment to pick up my suitcase and made my way to Embankment tube station. I couldn't help notice the weather today was absolutely gorgeous:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_7003.jpg
Not a bad way to say goodbye to my favorite city.
----------------
Thank you all for reading! Let me know if you have any questions.
Mom & Dad have a morning flight out of Heathrow. It is an easy journey via the tube from our apartment - District line from Embankment Station to Hammersmith, then change for Piccadilly line to Heathrow T4. Transferring at Hammersmith is a breeze, as the westbound District & Piccadilly lines stop across one another on the same platform, so all we need to do is alight the District line train, walk 3 feet across the platform, and get on the Piccadilly line train.
I accompanied them as far as Hammersmith station; once they got on their correct train, I went back to the apartment for breakfast, shower, and finish my packing. My plane doesn't leave until 2:40pm, so I had time for a bit of sightseeing in the morning.
I walked over to <b>Two Temple Place</b> - a late Victorian stone mansion built in the Tudor Style. It is now open to the public with an inaugural exhibition on <b>William Morris</b>, with all the artwork coming from the William Morris Gallery in Walthamstow. The WMG - which I visited in 2008 - is currently closed for redevelopment.
http://www.twotempleplace.co.uk/intro.html
http://www.twotempleplace.org/exhibitions.html
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6999.jpg
The interior of Two Temple Place is quite impressive; it's worth a visit on its own. As for the William Morris exhibit; I must say that I don't recognize majority of the works on display! There are a number of embroidered frieze based on 'The Romaunt of the Rose,' stained glass, and drawings. A lot of the pieces were a collaborative effort between William Morris and Edward-Burne Jones. And then of course there are plenty of wallpaper and fabric samples designed by William Morris.
Interior of Two Temple Place:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6998.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6994.jpg
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_6996.jpg
I returned to the apartment to pick up my suitcase and made my way to Embankment tube station. I couldn't help notice the weather today was absolutely gorgeous:
http://i406.photobucket.com/albums/p...1/IMG_7003.jpg
Not a bad way to say goodbye to my favorite city.
----------------
Thank you all for reading! Let me know if you have any questions.
Nov 19th, 2011, 04:03 AM
#11
yk - pasties [not sure that they qualify as cornish as i can't find out where they are made from the website, and only pasties made in Cornwall may now be called "Cornish" by EC edict] clotted cream [again, can't see where it's made, but there's a 50% chance it's cornish I suppose] AND Temple Place.
you are eating and mapping my life! i must have walked past 2 Temple Place over 1000 times but never got to go in - thanks for the photos. that was of course when i worked in the Temple and before we moved to Cornwall where pasties and clotted cream are everyday foods. [well, perhaps every week].
thank you so much for taking me down memory lane!
you are eating and mapping my life! i must have walked past 2 Temple Place over 1000 times but never got to go in - thanks for the photos. that was of course when i worked in the Temple and before we moved to Cornwall where pasties and clotted cream are everyday foods. [well, perhaps every week].
thank you so much for taking me down memory lane!
Nov 19th, 2011, 05:08 AM
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Excellent report; you either helped me "see" again a few specific places I've been or gave me ideas for places to go on future trips. (Enjoyed the Barcelona part, too--might be going there next fall, so am beginning to think about that.)
Nov 19th, 2011, 11:19 AM
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Clotted cream? yum! We can buy it at Whole Foods but I don't - it just doesn't seem right 
It always reminds of the cafe at Lizard Point, a nice afternoon tea and a wonderful view.
We have family that live in Gweek - it might be time for a visit to Cornwall
It always reminds of the cafe at Lizard Point, a nice afternoon tea and a wonderful view.
We have family that live in Gweek - it might be time for a visit to Cornwall
Nov 19th, 2011, 12:06 PM
#14
at least the Tiny Tim's tea room got the order of the jam and cream right - jam on first, followed by the cream. the jam acts as a sort of glue, so you can lie on more of the cream! i just don't think that the other way works as well.
alya - the weather at the moment is exceptional - sunny and for the time of year, very warm. but when it rains.....
alya - the weather at the moment is exceptional - sunny and for the time of year, very warm. but when it rains.....
Nov 20th, 2011, 05:23 AM
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yk - always enjoy your london trip reports...heading over soon to spend my first christmas in london and looking forward to seeing the decorations, shop windows etc...will have to add temple place and the east india company now!!! we have booked carols at the royal albert hall on christmas eve, really looking forward to that...
Nov 20th, 2011, 06:00 AM
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Agree with everything above. How lovely for your dad to have a good excuse to go back--so many times it's difficult to do more than talk about trips, eh?
That high-speed train to Canterbury is very sleek looking. How super that you are able to get back to the UK so often. Brava for making your parents' trip even more special.
(Did you see any Sargent's? I have missed his works twice now. Once in London with DH's illness and then again in Boston because of a hurricane. Are the fates trying to tell me something?)
That high-speed train to Canterbury is very sleek looking. How super that you are able to get back to the UK so often. Brava for making your parents' trip even more special.
(Did you see any Sargent's? I have missed his works twice now. Once in London with DH's illness and then again in Boston because of a hurricane. Are the fates trying to tell me something?)
Nov 20th, 2011, 02:02 PM
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Thanks again to all of you for your comments.
texasbookworm, I hope you'll decide on Barcelona for next year. The weater there in the Fall/Winter seasons are just spectacular.
alya, I had clotted cream 3 times in the 5 days in London. Talk about clogging my my arteries! Don't think they sell the "real" stuff in the US...
janis, heading to the UK in the Spring? Have fun!
kmowatt, have a great time in London over Christmas! We saw the Christmas tree being put up in Covent Garden but they hadn't lit the lights yet.
TDudette, no, no Sargent on this trip. I really limit myself to a handful of museums this time due to our short time there.
texasbookworm, I hope you'll decide on Barcelona for next year. The weater there in the Fall/Winter seasons are just spectacular.
alya, I had clotted cream 3 times in the 5 days in London. Talk about clogging my my arteries! Don't think they sell the "real" stuff in the US...
janis, heading to the UK in the Spring? Have fun!
kmowatt, have a great time in London over Christmas! We saw the Christmas tree being put up in Covent Garden but they hadn't lit the lights yet.
TDudette, no, no Sargent on this trip. I really limit myself to a handful of museums this time due to our short time there.
Nov 26th, 2011, 01:34 PM
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yk, again a wonderful report. Your detail is amazing. . .a virtual tourist guide. Like others have noted, your vivid descriptions bring back happy memories of previous experiences, while providing suggestions for a future trip. And, belated congratulations to your Dad for having received such an honor. Great that you could accompany your parents for the occasion.
