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Toulouse, The Dordogne(based in Sarlat) and Paris

Toulouse, The Dordogne(based in Sarlat) and Paris

Old Oct 6th, 2012, 09:01 AM
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Toulouse, The Dordogne(based in Sarlat) and Paris

Thanks to all the Fodorites who helped in the planning of our trip. We have been to Paris many times but The Dordogne was a new area of France for us to visit.

Our flight from Chicago to Paris to Toulouse was long but uneventful. 3 movies, part of a good book, some better than average food & wine on Air France, and we had arrived.
Cab to hotel--40 Euro

TOULOUSE
Hotel de l"Opera was the perfect choice. Right on Capitole Square the location could not have been better. The lobby and public were decorated in a fantastic old world French style that suited the area perfectly.

Our room booked through Expedia at $202 per night was nicer than anticipated. Small, but larger than most Euopean hotel rooms in this price range, it was extremely comfortable. King bed, room to walk around a little, marble bathroom, high end finishes, the only thing it lacked was a view. There are only a few rooms in the hotel with a view and at a much higher cost of course.

I also must mention the staff. Friendly, informative, and efficient, and they really seemed to enjoy their job. The hotel should be proud of the way they represent the property and the city of Toulouse.

After relaxing for a while we went out to find a simple dinner. Any gourmet, expensive meal would have been wasted on 2 very tired, jet-lagged travelers.

The evening was warm and the square was filled with attractive outside cafes. We strolled along reading the menus until we found just what we wanted. Cafe Les 3 Tenors and the best, gooey cheeseburger & thin fries we had in a long time anywhere.

OK, stop screaming! So, we are a little odd choosing a cheeseburger & fries for a first dinner in France, but after being up for 24+ hours we were fading in the stretch and needed comfort food and some sleep. We did add some wine which made it seem more French. Our server was very friendly and spoke some English so it was an easy experience. He suggested a special dessert of bananas, chocolate, & whipped cream--yummm! At 55 Euros, it was a good deal All carbed up it was time for some serious sleep.

It was raining in the morning so after breakfast we took an umbrella and headed to Foundation Bemberg--6 Euros each for entry. They have a nice selection of artwork(mostly 17th cantury) in a beautiful old building. It was a good choice to spend a rainy hour or so.

Next we stopped at Jacobins Church. Absolutely stunning. The inside stained glass windows reminded us of St. Chapelle in Paris. Tall, thin, and next to each other, they soared up to a spectacular vaulted ceiling(about the height of a 4-5 story building.) The room was huge and imposing. Mostly empty, only a small altar and a few pews in one part.

We walked along in the cavernous room and could see large, round, skirted, mirrored table at the far end. What was it for? Were they putting up an exposition?

Curious, we strolled over and found several small tented signs on top of the mirror that said "Don't Touch." Don't touch what??? There was nothing on this approx. 12 ft. diameter table with a gigantic pillar in the middle of it.

I walked up to the edge, looked down into the mirror, and BOOM! My heart stopped, my stomach flipped, and I grabbed onto my husband. You see I'm not very good with heights and looking down into that mirror was like looking into the abyss.

It's hard to describe or photograph but the mirror reflected up to the extremely tall height of the ceiling. It was like standing at the edge of a high place with no railing looking down into infinity---YIKES! We then stood and watched many people walk to the mirror, look down, and jump back.

Our photos of this site weren't up to our standards so I'll add a link to Bing photos.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=...ance&FORM=IGRE

We then moved on to St. Sernin, the most famous site in Toulouse. Built in the 11th Century, it is another architecural beauty. Most of the inside is free, but you can pay a few Euros more to see an additional part of the church.

Both of these churches were outstanding and worth your time.

Time for lunch. Actually we were starving and looking for a good place when what did we find? "ONE DISH." Perfect! I know some of you don't like this restaurant but we do. The first time we ate there was in Paris a few years ago. We wandered in and ask for a menu and the server said, "One Dish!" They start out bringing you a salad with a light dressing, then a huge plate of thin fries arrives with a silver, covered dish with thin sliced steak in a sauce. In a few minutes they return with more. All they ask is how you want your steak done. They have a good wine list and, if you can fit it in, they have a variety of desserts at an added cost. It was 17 Euro each for lunch (I believe it's about 28 Euros each for the same dinner.) If you're really hungry, this is the place to go. There are several locations in Paris.

More food-----it's a good thing we are walking a lot! Dinner was at Les Arcades on Capitole Square. Our server suggested a nice veal dish. Baked in a tasty sauce with noodles & vegetables, it was a good choice. Along with some Rose wine, apple pie, and rum cake----I'm never eating again!
63 Euros--again a good deal and the people watching at a table on the square was a wonderful way to spend an evening.

The next morning we were scheduled to pick up a car at the train station and move on to Sarlat. We had to try Le Bibent (Christian Constant) for breakfast. It was steps away from the hotel. Wow! What a room. We felt like we in a gorgeous mansion. Croissants, baguettes, cheese, ham, fresh fruit, oj, coffee, and the best scrambled eggs served in individual iron pots----can you say butter & cream to die for! We wish we were here another night to have dinner in this lovely place.

All in all, we really enjoyed Toulouse and wished we had stayed another day. Since it was raining during most of the day we didn't see much along the river. There were so many sites, shops, and restaurants in walking distance from the Hotel de L'Opera. It started out as a place to get over jet lag until we started driving and ended up to be a fabulous city.

Here's a few photos of the hotel, square,and St. Sernin:
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...louse%20France

On to Sarlat-------
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Old Oct 6th, 2012, 09:43 AM
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Great report!
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Old Oct 6th, 2012, 12:00 PM
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Looking forward to more!
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Old Oct 6th, 2012, 03:01 PM
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Oh, TPAYT, I have been waiting for this! I knew you were home because of your posts on other threads. We also loved Toulouse when we there there a year ago.

I am in the process of planning another trip for fall of 2013. I am looking forward to reading all about your trip!
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Old Oct 6th, 2012, 03:17 PM
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Sounds great...glad you got to the Constant restaurnt. Anxious for more!
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Old Oct 7th, 2012, 12:59 AM
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Well, you've been to two of our favourite buildings in Toulouse. The Hotel d'Assezat, which houses the Fondation Bemberg, and which not too many people mention, is, for me, one of the most beautiful buildings in France.

As is the Eglise des Jacobins. The mirror reflecting the amazing pillars is quite recent, and as you say, a surprise when you first look down. I took a photo when we were there with a friend in April http://cettesemaineacarlux.blogspot....short-day.html

Don't know if you went into the cloisters at the Jacobins, but I remember being there one day a few years after we moved to France, and being amazed that we lived in a country where we could just drive for a few hours and be in such a lovely place. Still feel the same.

It's one of our favourite cities, and also one of the favourite of many French people, who have voted it the city they would most like to live in. Near the ocean and the mountains, young and vibrant.
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Old Oct 7th, 2012, 11:16 AM
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I have been reading your posts leading up yo your trip. They have been so helpful to me in planning our trip to the Dordogne next June. Can't wait to read on.
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Old Oct 7th, 2012, 11:42 AM
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TPAYT-looking forward to reliving our trips to the Dordogne through you. I hope you had a fabulous time. We will add Toulouse to our list of places we still have to see in France.
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Old Oct 7th, 2012, 01:58 PM
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More!
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Old Oct 7th, 2012, 03:23 PM
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Thanks, Tpayt! I've never read a detailed report on Toulouse, so this is great!

I've never really focused on it before, but we should go there, because some of DH's ancestor's come from just outside Toulouse. You certainly make it sound well worth spending a few days, even sans ancestors!
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Old Oct 7th, 2012, 04:32 PM
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Enjoying your report. I really liked Toulouse and spent a few days there a couple of years ago. I just checked my trip report and see that I also ate at Les Arcades, more than once so I must have liked it.
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Old Oct 7th, 2012, 04:35 PM
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Enjoying this. Looking forward to your adventures in Sarlat and environs. Every time I read a Dordogne report I get the itch to return. It's such a beautiful area.

Thanks for the photos, too!
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Old Oct 9th, 2012, 06:52 AM
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Please tell us more, TPAYT!
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Old Oct 9th, 2012, 08:42 AM
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Carlux---your photo at Jacobins really captures the mirror beautifully.

SARLAT
We picked up a car at the train station from Europcar(booked thru Kemwell) and the agent gave us quite easy directions to get out of busy Toulouse. Originally we had planned to stop along the way but time got the better of us so we drove directly to Sarlat and our meeting with the apartment agent.

Again luck was with us. We had studied the maps and knew the location we were looking for was in the top, right section of the city. Spotting the street we wanted on the first go around, we parked and easily found the office. The apt. we rented thru "In Sarlat" service at 961 Euros for 1 week.

Our apt. could not have been in a better location. A few steps off of Rue Tourny(a main pedestrian street) to Cour des Fontaines. It was a quiet square with 3 cafes, a couple of shops, and a public fountain that runs freely and has been providing water to the area for centuries. Our private courtyard backed up to the Cathedrale Sacerdos so the lovely bells added to the ambiance.

On the ground floor, our windows opened up right on the square(see photos.) Question?? All over Europe, the windows do not have screens and we have never seen bugs or birds, etc. fly in. What's with that? Where are the mosquitos? In the US, this would never work, in our area we'd have chipmunks in the house!

It was kind of funny to get used to, but because our windows were next to a cafe, people would actually stick their heads in to see if it was a shop or something of interest. As we had coffe & pastry in the morning it was quite picturesque to have the windows open and watch the activity on the square.

The apt. was nicely decorated and met our needs. It also had a private courtyard and a freezing cold plunge pool with steps leading down and jacuzzi jets.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...40953586478567

I need help----Photobucket changed their format and I just can't figure out how to move the photos in a different order so they are kind of mixed up. Also, gracejoan had showed me how to insert an individual photo from Photobucket, which I did often, and now with the new format it doesn't work...UGH! Frustration!!

Here's the apt. service we used:
http://www.perigord-locations.fr/ren...rd-rentals.php

A free parking lot and grocery store were just a short walk from the apartment. After settling in and checking out the town a bit, our first dinner was at "Le Gaulois" right around the corner from our apt.(photo)

Recommended by many on TA and also Fodorites, this place was so cute and the food was outstanding. Beatrice, the friendly, outgoing server was just a delight. It was either StCirq or Carlux (or both) who recommended the Tartiflette and it was so fantastic that we returned for it again on another night. Comfort food to the max!
Tartiflette----potatoes, onions, lardons(pork), and reblochon cheese. It seemed like a lot of butter & cheese but maybe it was the cheese itselt that made it so creamy.
Along with salad, some wine and maybe 1 dessert---47 Euros

We were already enjoying the fact that we could easily walk in a charming, centuries-old town to dinner.

You might notice that I use the word "easy" a lot. After our many travels this is what we look for. Running from pillar to post and seeing everything in a rush to get to the next site just isn't our style anymore. We'd rather take our time and enjoy the moments.

The next day was Saturday---market day and my birthday dinner. It also turned out to be Les Jours du Patrimoine so Sarlat streets were lit with 10,000 votive candles. No, I did not to try and blow them all out, but it was a nice birthday celebration.

Later.
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Old Oct 10th, 2012, 07:55 AM
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Some great pastries & baguettes at our apt.(several patisseries & boulangeries a short walk away) along with coffe (the only thing I "cooked" all week, and we were ready to explore Sarlat.

Warm weather, blue skies, market day in Sarlat was looking good. The streets were filled with vendors and LOTS of people.

We couldn't resist the marvelous strawberries, small and bright red, they were like eating candy. The wine tasting booths were doing a fast business even at 10am. I usually don't indilge that early, but what the heck! We bought a few bottles, some flowers to brighten up the apt. and Paella to take home for lunch. People watching with a coffe at a cafe was most interesting. This was a good day.

Walking the streets of Sarlat is like stepping back into another age. Half-timber houses abound, most built between 1450 and 1500. A cafe around every corner and cute shops with unique clothes, jewelry, and more varieties of Duck Confit and Foie Gras than you can imagine.

The 3 geese sculpture in Place aux Oies was being photographed by almost everyone who passed by. For centuries live fowl was sold here.

When we returned to our Square, organ music was pouring out of Saint Sacerdos (the church that backed up to our apt.) It lured us in and the spendid interior glowed with sunlight streaming through the stained glass windows. A rehearsal was in progress. It seemed that the whole town was preparing for the night's activities. Heritage weekend was a big deal all over the area.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...0Sarlat?sort=2

Today was my birthday. We had dinner reservations at Le Presidial. The setting is a show-stopper with the tables set in a lovely garden. The food , wine, and service were all excellent.

Foie Gras & shrimp starters
Lamb chops & roast chicken
Goat cheese course
Apple tart & profiteroles
A bottle of Jabourtie(sp?)Rose--(Thanks for the suggestion,Stu)
86 Euros

After dinner we walked the streets until 1am. It was Les Jours du Patrimoine and there were 10,000 votive candles lining the streets. No, I didn't try to blow them all out, I'm not quite that old, but it was nice of MDH to arrange the spectacle--haha!

There were activites going on all over town, a poet reciting up on a balcony as we rounded a corner, light shows in Place de la Liberte, costumed characters running around the streets, and the church concert at midnight.

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...41342655787458

Heritage weekend continues tomorrow at Eyrignac Gardens.
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Old Oct 10th, 2012, 06:41 PM
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Loving this report, and photos are great. Brings back fond memories of our Dordogne trip last year. Many thanks.
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Old Oct 10th, 2012, 06:59 PM
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Ditto taconic. Dying to get back to Sarlat, which is so beautiful. And your heritage weekend photos remind me, strangely, of a New Year's Eve I once spent in Assisi.
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Old Oct 10th, 2012, 07:10 PM
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I think I recommended the tartiflette at Chez Les Gaulois, and while it's not the slightest bit regional, it's a killer for a stick-to-your-ribs meal. Glad you liked it!

We didn't even venture into Sarlat once on our recent trip, and frankly didn't miss it a bit. It's become a tourist mecca - not my thing at all anymore. Had too many years of that. But do totally understand its appeal to visitors, as it is gorgeous, thanks to André Malraux.
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Old Oct 10th, 2012, 07:54 PM
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I'm so glad to see your comments on Toulouse - I absolutely loved it, and think it drastically underrated. Loved your reaction to the mirror!
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Old Oct 11th, 2012, 08:10 AM
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Sunday morning and the church bells are chiming loudly next door. Time for coffee and some of those delightful almond croissants. Almonds in walnut country, but how can we resist----crunchy, creamy almond filling with powdered sugar and sliced almonds on top.

The sun is out as we head to Eyrignac Gardens. Quite remarkable, the garden is 10 acres of topiary sculptures & flowers. A total of 50,000 plants. Precise prunning and hand shearing keeps 5 full time gardeners busy. The white garden is superb with paths leading to 5 ornamental pools, a fountain, and Asian gazeboes.

Because it was Herritage Weekend the Manor House was open for tour---it's one of the few (if only) times that you can see the interior. Owner Patrick Sermadiras was on site to greet and chat with visitors. The rooms were decorated in an impressive, elegant style. Comfortable looking(after all they do live here) but gorgeous as if right out of a design magazine. The Manor House has been lived in for 500 years.

No photos were allowed. We thought that we could buy a book in the shop that showed the interior but it was not to be found. I couldn't find photos on the internet either.

Lunch at the cafe overlooking the gardens had some good choices. We shared a huge (glad we shared) fresh salad with greens, tomatoes, eggs, beets, corn, and hearts of palm. With coffee 20 Euros

http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/use...68991209980393

Back to Sarlat, we explored the storybook streets for a while. It was late in the day so most tour buses were gone. The streets are difficult to walk on---very uneven stones. I was concerned about my foot because I had a bout of severe plantars faicitis before we left and I didn't want a flare up.

This is where the cold water dipping pool in our apt. courtyard came in handy. I'd turn on the jets and put my sore feet in front of them. FREEZING, yes! But it felt so good. TMI---I know I'm rambling again. I'll try to keep the next days shorter.

Dinner was ar "L'Instant Delice" on Rue des Consuls.

Ham Lasagna, Mushroom Omelette
Walnut cake, bowl of ice cream
Wine & coffee 40 Euros

Excellent food, friendly service,a good value
A Fodorite recommended this place--thank you, thank you.

We chose some of these restaurants not because of the price but because the menus at the higher end places were all duck & salmon, little else.

I must add that Rue des Consuls is such a cute street with several restaurants. Oh no, I said "Cute". After our first day in Sarlat we agreed to try and be more creative and not say "cute" again!

Coming up---our next day was the most terrible, horrible, awful day of our trip!!! Oh well, in traveling you must encounter one of these days and just move on.
TIP: Skip Gouffre de Padirac!
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