Thanks to all the Fodorites who helped in the planning of our trip. We have been to Paris many times but The Dordogne was a new area of France for us to visit.
Our flight from Chicago to Paris to Toulouse was long but uneventful. 3 movies, part of a good book, some better than average food & wine on Air France, and we had arrived.
Cab to hotel--40 Euro
TOULOUSE
Hotel de l"Opera was the perfect choice. Right on Capitole Square the location could not have been better. The lobby and public were decorated in a fantastic old world French style that suited the area perfectly.
Our room booked through Expedia at $202 per night was nicer than anticipated. Small, but larger than most Euopean hotel rooms in this price range, it was extremely comfortable. King bed, room to walk around a little, marble bathroom, high end finishes, the only thing it lacked was a view. There are only a few rooms in the hotel with a view and at a much higher cost of course.
I also must mention the staff. Friendly, informative, and efficient, and they really seemed to enjoy their job. The hotel should be proud of the way they represent the property and the city of Toulouse.
After relaxing for a while we went out to find a simple dinner. Any gourmet, expensive meal would have been wasted on 2 very tired, jet-lagged travelers.
The evening was warm and the square was filled with attractive outside cafes. We strolled along reading the menus until we found just what we wanted. Cafe Les 3 Tenors and the best, gooey cheeseburger & thin fries we had in a long time anywhere.
OK, stop screaming! So, we are a little odd choosing a cheeseburger & fries for a first dinner in France, but after being up for 24+ hours we were fading in the stretch and needed comfort food and some sleep. We did add some wine which made it seem more French. Our server was very friendly and spoke some English so it was an easy experience. He suggested a special dessert of bananas, chocolate, & whipped cream--yummm! At 55 Euros, it was a good deal All carbed up it was time for some serious sleep.
It was raining in the morning so after breakfast we took an umbrella and headed to Foundation Bemberg--6 Euros each for entry. They have a nice selection of artwork(mostly 17th cantury) in a beautiful old building. It was a good choice to spend a rainy hour or so.
Next we stopped at Jacobins Church. Absolutely stunning. The inside stained glass windows reminded us of St. Chapelle in Paris. Tall, thin, and next to each other, they soared up to a spectacular vaulted ceiling(about the height of a 4-5 story building.) The room was huge and imposing. Mostly empty, only a small altar and a few pews in one part.
We walked along in the cavernous room and could see large, round, skirted, mirrored table at the far end. What was it for? Were they putting up an exposition?
Curious, we strolled over and found several small tented signs on top of the mirror that said "Don't Touch." Don't touch what??? There was nothing on this approx. 12 ft. diameter table with a gigantic pillar in the middle of it.
I walked up to the edge, looked down into the mirror, and BOOM! My heart stopped, my stomach flipped, and I grabbed onto my husband. You see I'm not very good with heights and looking down into that mirror was like looking into the abyss.
It's hard to describe or photograph but the mirror reflected up to the extremely tall height of the ceiling. It was like standing at the edge of a high place with no railing looking down into infinity---YIKES! We then stood and watched many people walk to the mirror, look down, and jump back.
Our photos of this site weren't up to our standards so I'll add a link to Bing photos.
http://www.bing.com/images/search?q=jacobins+church%2c+toulouse%2c+france&qpvt=jacobins+church%2c+toulouse%2c+france&FORM=IGRE
We then moved on to St. Sernin, the most famous site in Toulouse. Built in the 11th Century, it is another architecural beauty. Most of the inside is free, but you can pay a few Euros more to see an additional part of the church.
Both of these churches were outstanding and worth your time.
Time for lunch. Actually we were starving and looking for a good place when what did we find? "ONE DISH." Perfect! I know some of you don't like this restaurant but we do. The first time we ate there was in Paris a few years ago. We wandered in and ask for a menu and the server said, "One Dish!" They start out bringing you a salad with a light dressing, then a huge plate of thin fries arrives with a silver, covered dish with thin sliced steak in a sauce. In a few minutes they return with more. All they ask is how you want your steak done. They have a good wine list and, if you can fit it in, they have a variety of desserts at an added cost. It was 17 Euro each for lunch (I believe it's about 28 Euros each for the same dinner.) If you're really hungry, this is the place to go. There are several locations in Paris.
More food-----it's a good thing we are walking a lot! Dinner was at Les Arcades on Capitole Square. Our server suggested a nice veal dish. Baked in a tasty sauce with noodles & vegetables, it was a good choice. Along with some Rose wine, apple pie, and rum cake----I'm never eating again!
63 Euros--again a good deal and the people watching at a table on the square was a wonderful way to spend an evening.
The next morning we were scheduled to pick up a car at the train station and move on to Sarlat. We had to try Le Bibent (Christian Constant) for breakfast. It was steps away from the hotel. Wow! What a room. We felt like we in a gorgeous mansion. Croissants, baguettes, cheese, ham, fresh fruit, oj, coffee, and the best scrambled eggs served in individual iron pots----can you say butter & cream to die for! We wish we were here another night to have dinner in this lovely place.
All in all, we really enjoyed Toulouse and wished we had stayed another day. Since it was raining during most of the day we didn't see much along the river. There were so many sites, shops, and restaurants in walking distance from the Hotel de L'Opera. It started out as a place to get over jet lag until we started driving and ended up to be a fabulous city.
Here's a few photos of the hotel, square,and St. Sernin:
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/library/Toulouse%20France
On to Sarlat-------
Toulouse, The Dordogne(based in Sarlat) and Paris
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Great report!
Looking forward to more!
Oh, TPAYT, I have been waiting for this! I knew you were home because of your posts on other threads. We also loved Toulouse when we there there a year ago.
I am in the process of planning another trip for fall of 2013. I am looking forward to reading all about your trip!
Sounds great...glad you got to the Constant restaurnt. Anxious for more!
Well, you've been to two of our favourite buildings in Toulouse. The Hotel d'Assezat, which houses the Fondation Bemberg, and which not too many people mention, is, for me, one of the most beautiful buildings in France.
As is the Eglise des Jacobins. The mirror reflecting the amazing pillars is quite recent, and as you say, a surprise when you first look down. I took a photo when we were there with a friend in April http://cettesemaineacarlux.blogspot.fr/2012/04/une-petite-journee-toulouse-short-day.html
Don't know if you went into the cloisters at the Jacobins, but I remember being there one day a few years after we moved to France, and being amazed that we lived in a country where we could just drive for a few hours and be in such a lovely place. Still feel the same.
It's one of our favourite cities, and also one of the favourite of many French people, who have voted it the city they would most like to live in. Near the ocean and the mountains, young and vibrant.
I have been reading your posts leading up yo your trip. They have been so helpful to me in planning our trip to the Dordogne next June. Can't wait to read on.
TPAYT-looking forward to reliving our trips to the Dordogne through you. I hope you had a fabulous time. We will add Toulouse to our list of places we still have to see in France.
More!
Thanks, Tpayt! I've never read a detailed report on Toulouse, so this is great!
I've never really focused on it before, but we should go there, because some of DH's ancestor's come from just outside Toulouse. You certainly make it sound well worth spending a few days, even sans ancestors!
Enjoying your report. I really liked Toulouse and spent a few days there a couple of years ago. I just checked my trip report and see that I also ate at Les Arcades, more than once so I must have liked it.
Enjoying this. Looking forward to your adventures in Sarlat and environs. Every time I read a Dordogne report I get the itch to return. It's such a beautiful area.
Thanks for the photos, too!
Please tell us more, TPAYT!
Carlux---your photo at Jacobins really captures the mirror beautifully.
SARLAT
We picked up a car at the train station from Europcar(booked thru Kemwell) and the agent gave us quite easy directions to get out of busy Toulouse. Originally we had planned to stop along the way but time got the better of us so we drove directly to Sarlat and our meeting with the apartment agent.
Again luck was with us. We had studied the maps and knew the location we were looking for was in the top, right section of the city. Spotting the street we wanted on the first go around, we parked and easily found the office. The apt. we rented thru "In Sarlat" service at 961 Euros for 1 week.
Our apt. could not have been in a better location. A few steps off of Rue Tourny(a main pedestrian street) to Cour des Fontaines. It was a quiet square with 3 cafes, a couple of shops, and a public fountain that runs freely and has been providing water to the area for centuries. Our private courtyard backed up to the Cathedrale Sacerdos so the lovely bells added to the ambiance.
On the ground floor, our windows opened up right on the square(see photos.) Question?? All over Europe, the windows do not have screens and we have never seen bugs or birds, etc. fly in. What's with that? Where are the mosquitos? In the US, this would never work, in our area we'd have chipmunks in the house!
It was kind of funny to get used to, but because our windows were next to a cafe, people would actually stick their heads in to see if it was a shop or something of interest. As we had coffe & pastry in the morning it was quite picturesque to have the windows open and watch the activity on the square.
The apt. was nicely decorated and met our needs. It also had a private courtyard and a freezing cold plunge pool with steps leading down and jacuzzi jets.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Sarlat%20Apartment/IMG_3362_zpsa5d25bb3.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Sarlat%20Apartment/IMG_3362_zpsa5d25bb3.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=134979697021406340953586478567
I need help----Photobucket changed their format and I just can't figure out how to move the photos in a different order so they are kind of mixed up. Also, gracejoan had showed me how to insert an individual photo from Photobucket, which I did often, and now with the new format it doesn't work...UGH! Frustration!!
Here's the apt. service we used:
http://www.perigord-locations.fr/rentals-perigord/perigord-rentals.php
A free parking lot and grocery store were just a short walk from the apartment. After settling in and checking out the town a bit, our first dinner was at "Le Gaulois" right around the corner from our apt.(photo)
Recommended by many on TA and also Fodorites, this place was so cute and the food was outstanding. Beatrice, the friendly, outgoing server was just a delight. It was either StCirq or Carlux (or both) who recommended the Tartiflette and it was so fantastic that we returned for it again on another night. Comfort food to the max!
Tartiflette----potatoes, onions, lardons(pork), and reblochon cheese. It seemed like a lot of butter & cheese but maybe it was the cheese itselt that made it so creamy.
Along with salad, some wine and maybe 1 dessert---47 Euros
We were already enjoying the fact that we could easily walk in a charming, centuries-old town to dinner.
You might notice that I use the word "easy" a lot. After our many travels this is what we look for. Running from pillar to post and seeing everything in a rush to get to the next site just isn't our style anymore. We'd rather take our time and enjoy the moments.
The next day was Saturday---market day and my birthday dinner. It also turned out to be Les Jours du Patrimoine so Sarlat streets were lit with 10,000 votive candles. No, I did not to try and blow them all out, but it was a nice birthday celebration.
Later.
Some great pastries & baguettes at our apt.(several patisseries & boulangeries a short walk away) along with coffe (the only thing I "cooked" all week, and we were ready to explore Sarlat.
Warm weather, blue skies, market day in Sarlat was looking good. The streets were filled with vendors and LOTS of people.
We couldn't resist the marvelous strawberries, small and bright red, they were like eating candy. The wine tasting booths were doing a fast business even at 10am. I usually don't indilge that early, but what the heck! We bought a few bottles, some flowers to brighten up the apt. and Paella to take home for lunch. People watching with a coffe at a cafe was most interesting. This was a good day.
Walking the streets of Sarlat is like stepping back into another age. Half-timber houses abound, most built between 1450 and 1500. A cafe around every corner and cute shops with unique clothes, jewelry, and more varieties of Duck Confit and Foie Gras than you can imagine.
The 3 geese sculpture in Place aux Oies was being photographed by almost everyone who passed by. For centuries live fowl was sold here.
When we returned to our Square, organ music was pouring out of Saint Sacerdos (the church that backed up to our apt.) It lured us in and the spendid interior glowed with sunlight streaming through the stained glass windows. A rehearsal was in progress. It seemed that the whole town was preparing for the night's activities. Heritage weekend was a big deal all over the area.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/library/Market%20Day%20in%20Sarlat?sort=2
Today was my birthday. We had dinner reservations at Le Presidial. The setting is a show-stopper with the tables set in a lovely garden. The food , wine, and service were all excellent.
Foie Gras & shrimp starters
Lamb chops & roast chicken
Goat cheese course
Apple tart & profiteroles
A bottle of Jabourtie(sp?)Rose--(Thanks for the suggestion,Stu)
86 Euros
After dinner we walked the streets until 1am. It was Les Jours du Patrimoine and there were 10,000 votive candles lining the streets. No, I didn't try to blow them all out, I'm not quite that old, but it was nice of MDH to arrange the spectacle--haha!
There were activites going on all over town, a poet reciting up on a balcony as we rounded a corner, light shows in Place de la Liberte, costumed characters running around the streets, and the church concert at midnight.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Candlelit%20Sarlat%20on%20%20%20Herritage%20Weekend/IMG_3445_zpsec7130ce.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Candlelit%20Sarlat%20on%20%20%20Herritage%20Weekend/IMG_3445_zpsec7130ce.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=134988399563106241342655787458
Heritage weekend continues tomorrow at Eyrignac Gardens.
Loving this report, and photos are great. Brings back fond memories of our Dordogne trip last year. Many thanks.
Ditto taconic. Dying to get back to Sarlat, which is so beautiful. And your heritage weekend photos remind me, strangely, of a New Year's Eve I once spent in Assisi.
I think I recommended the tartiflette at Chez Les Gaulois, and while it's not the slightest bit regional, it's a killer for a stick-to-your-ribs meal. Glad you liked it!
We didn't even venture into Sarlat once on our recent trip, and frankly didn't miss it a bit. It's become a tourist mecca - not my thing at all anymore. Had too many years of that. But do totally understand its appeal to visitors, as it is gorgeous, thanks to André Malraux.
I'm so glad to see your comments on Toulouse - I absolutely loved it, and think it drastically underrated. Loved your reaction to the mirror!
Sunday morning and the church bells are chiming loudly next door. Time for coffee and some of those delightful almond croissants. Almonds in walnut country, but how can we resist----crunchy, creamy almond filling with powdered sugar and sliced almonds on top.
The sun is out as we head to Eyrignac Gardens. Quite remarkable, the garden is 10 acres of topiary sculptures & flowers. A total of 50,000 plants. Precise prunning and hand shearing keeps 5 full time gardeners busy. The white garden is superb with paths leading to 5 ornamental pools, a fountain, and Asian gazeboes.
Because it was Herritage Weekend the Manor House was open for tour---it's one of the few (if only) times that you can see the interior. Owner Patrick Sermadiras was on site to greet and chat with visitors. The rooms were decorated in an impressive, elegant style. Comfortable looking(after all they do live here) but gorgeous as if right out of a design magazine. The Manor House has been lived in for 500 years.
No photos were allowed. We thought that we could buy a book in the shop that showed the interior but it was not to be found. I couldn't find photos on the internet either.
Lunch at the cafe overlooking the gardens had some good choices. We shared a huge (glad we shared) fresh salad with greens, tomatoes, eggs, beets, corn, and hearts of palm. With coffee 20 Euros
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Eyrignac%20Gardens%20in%20The%20Dordogne/IMG_3591_zps3bb96f99.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Eyrignac%20Gardens%20in%20The%20Dordogne/IMG_3591_zps3bb96f99.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=134996797671807468991209980393
Back to Sarlat, we explored the storybook streets for a while. It was late in the day so most tour buses were gone. The streets are difficult to walk on---very uneven stones. I was concerned about my foot because I had a bout of severe plantars faicitis before we left and I didn't want a flare up.
This is where the cold water dipping pool in our apt. courtyard came in handy. I'd turn on the jets and put my sore feet in front of them. FREEZING, yes! But it felt so good. TMI---I know I'm rambling again. I'll try to keep the next days shorter.
Dinner was ar "L'Instant Delice" on Rue des Consuls.
Ham Lasagna, Mushroom Omelette
Walnut cake, bowl of ice cream
Wine & coffee 40 Euros
Excellent food, friendly service,a good value
A Fodorite recommended this place--thank you, thank you.
We chose some of these restaurants not because of the price but because the menus at the higher end places were all duck & salmon, little else.
I must add that Rue des Consuls is such a cute street with several restaurants. Oh no, I said "Cute". After our first day in Sarlat we agreed to try and be more creative and not say "cute" again!
Coming up---our next day was the most terrible, horrible, awful day of our trip!!! Oh well, in traveling you must encounter one of these days and just move on.
TIP: Skip Gouffre de Padirac!
TPAYT...
I am loving your report. It brings back great memories of my all too short stay in Sarlat 4 years ago. After reading about your Toulouse experience I think I need to put that city on my "possible places for a trip" list!
Tpayt: Lucky you to see the inside of the manor house at Eyrignac. Also loved, loved, loved your photos. I so loved that place, I dream about going back to rent a house on that estate. There are two that can be rented, not far from the manor house. Did you see them?
taconictraveler---yes, one is next to the white garden and the other is in my photo titled Flowers All Around. We didn't go into them though. It would be a lovely place to stay but a bit of a drive to dinner.
LowCountry---we were surprised at how much we liked Toulouse. I could see going back to the city center around Capitole Sq. There are so many sites, shops, and restaurants that we didn't have time to see. BTW, I never mentioned the name of "One Dish" restaurant. It's "Relais Entrecote" with several locations in Paris as well.
Glad to see that you put an embargo on the word 'cute.' Drives me crazy when I hear people talking about all the cute little villages here. Sounds patronizing - and not very original. There are lots of other adjectives to describe villages, churches, markets, etc.
Great report...have never been to any of these places but it sounds really lovely! Especially the apple tart and profiteroles.
Dying to know why you say to skip Gouffre de Padirac. We have seen so many caves in the US, and there is so much I want to see in the Dordogne. I will be glad to have a reason to cut a cave out!
This was our day with 11am reservations at Gouffre de Padirac. I made them a few months before and we were looking forward to a new adventure. Many questions were asked of the Fodorites on how to get there and what to see on the way. I do admit to a little too much planning but I also admit to throwing most of it out the window when we get there.
It was a cool, very gray day. We got out of town quickly and, maps in hand headed East toward Rocamadour. Parking at L'Hospitalet, we wanted to take photos of Rocamadour. The photos looked exactly exactly like the weather---dull & gray. Too bad because the town going up the hillside seemed interesting.
No time to stop, we got back on the road. We didn't want to be late for our reservation. Unfortunately, we got turned around somehow and got lost. Finally found the right direction and arrived at G de P with 10 minutes to spare.
The line was exceptionally long so MDH stood in it while I went in to see what I could do about our reservation.
This sight states that 20 million people have visited. Well, you would think that after 1 or 2 million peole went through they would have had a handle on people moving. This was just a joke. A guide did take my reservation paper immediately and then all went down hill. Organization was just a mess.
Finally we were allowed to go down. 3 elevators and a walk found us standing in a long line of people. We were in a dimly lit, damp, cold cave waiting for a boat. The line only moved inches at a time. Once in a while people would be coming out in a lane close to us. Nobody was talking or smiling-----that should have been a sign for us to get out of there.
We stood in line 1 hour and 5 minutes before we could get a glimpse of the boat dock. There were 3 stalls for the boats to land. An older woman was helped off of one of the boats and completely collapsed on the stone floor. This was not looking good.
We were herded and sort of pushed into the boats. I couldn't sit with my husband they made me sit with 2 large adults. The seating was 3 across and not wide enough for 3 adults which meant I was sitting sort of sideways on one hip. The boats were very shallow and I was practically hanging over the side. There are rope type railings all along the cave and I guess that was in case i fell overboard. 11 people per boat plus a guide.
The guide said some things in French and a few things in English and then we got to a dock deep in the cave. This is where it got really ugly.
Another guide took 3 boats of visitors(33 people) on a walking tour. He walked really fast, it was dark, the footing was bad, and we climbed probably 100+ stairs. Both of us are in good shape, but some people were having a difficult time keeping up. With so many people in his group you couldn't get close enough to hear what he was saying. Since it was all in French we didn't even try. I know, we are in France and if we don't speak the language too bad for us. There was never an offer of a headset with a guide in English. There were people from Germany, Spain, Italy, Japan and more and even some of them who understood French said they couldn't make out a word he was saying.
At one point MDH asked him a question in English. The guide made a rude gesture, turned around and walked away. He made no attempt to check and see who was keeping up with him. This was a very strenuous tour. I could now see why the woman collapsed when she got off of the boat.
OK, I will admit that it was pretty in the cave but you didn't have much time to enjoy looking at it because you really had to keep moving and watch your footing at all times.
All in all, this was a dreadful experience. We were treated with such disrespect and herded like sheep to the slaughter. It's hard to believe that they get away with treating people like that. I wonder how many people have been hurt. We saw a few groups of much older visitors coming out and I find it hard to believe that they could walk at that pace and do all those steps. Maybe they went on a different tour.
I have to add that we couldn't wait to get out of there.
When we did come out, the sun was out so we stopped in Carennac for lunch. After that dark, dank cave sitting on a terrace in the sun with a glass of wine was just the thing to do. Again we shared a huge salad with goat cheese, melon, sausage, and greens along with a slice of quiche. Actually it wasn't very good but the setting was pretty.
How could this day get any worse? Dinner at Auberge Le Mirandol in Sarlat.
Lukewarm mushroom soup
Tough, stringy beef of some kind
Mashed Potatoes with way too much garlic
But some good Jaubertie wine 57 Euros
We have a rule that we don't order dessert if the food is bad. We stopped and had some fantastic ice cream from a shop on the street. Pear, pistachio, and coconut---my favorite flavors.
We deemed this the day of rude, unpleasant people and ghastly food. Tommorrow has to be better!!!
As far as caves go, our experience with Font de Gaume a few days later was just the oppisite of this horror. IMO, that's the one to visit. More to come.
A few photos from Rocamadour, Gouffre de Padriac, and Carennac
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Rocmadour%20and%20Gouffre%20de%20Padriac/IMG_3705_zps319763f8.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Rocmadour%20and%20Gouffre%20de%20Padriac/IMG_3705_zps319763f8.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=135014264150004402148983755411
I am still following along with you on your adventures. And I am making mental notes for our next trip. Thanks, TPAYT.
Tue. brought rain so we lingered around Sarlat for a while looking in the shops. Found a nice sweater for our daughter
My taste leans toward pottery. An attractive piece caught my eye but when I looked at the bottom, it was made in Spain! Now maybe I don't get it, but why would I buy pottery from Spain at a shop in France???
On the way to the car we spotted an actual working pottery shop. What luck.
BEN KENZA
4 Rue Jean-Jacques-Escande
Sarlat
A small shop in front, a garden displaying more items plus open air workshop in the rear. A husband & wife team make the most interesting pieces. Original art, that's what I am always looking for. She tried to explain the technique. I tried to follow her but got lost along the way.
Cuisson Asiatique Bois Texture Minerale (copied from her writing on the back of their card, it may not be spelled correctly) Something about a wood fired oven and using water.
We purchased a plate and 3 small, very unusual vases. Each was individual and intense in coloration. I would have loved one of the larger pieces but it's too hard to transport and shipping is outrageous.
What a find! If you are in Satlat, this place is worth searching out.
What to do on a gray, rainy day? We decided to soldier on and not let it get the best of us.
CHATEAU DE BEYNAC
A short drive away, we were tempted to park when we arrived in Beynac THANKS TO FODORITE TIPS, we passed all the lots going up and found a spot at the restaurant just steps from the chateau. That walk up in the rain would not have been fun!
A sense of history abounds in this 13th Century chateau. Partialy furnished, it held our interest. We explored all the nooks & crannies and stepped out at the lookout points.
Looking down at the mist & fog along the river, the view over the valley was stunning. I only imagine that on a clear day it would be even better. Unfortuneately the gray, misty river photos don't seem to want to load, but here's a few. We didn't take a tour but the English leaflet we received explained things as we went along.
Afterwards we had a coffee and pastry in the cafe right outside the door of the chateau.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Chateau%20Beynac%20and%20Sarlat%20Pottery/IMG_3787_zps6a682b02.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0
Returned to D'Instant Declice for another good meal.
Beef Carpaccio & salad
Foie Gras salad
Salmon Ravioli--yumm!
Mushroom omelette
Wine 48 Euros
The photos are lovely....sorry Gouffre de Padrriac was so awful! Jeez,
Tomorrow----finally, a fantastic day! Great weather, La Roque Gageac, Boat Ride, and Marquessac Gardens---WOW!!!
That's terrible about the Gouffre de Padirac. We were there in late September and had a totally different experience with no crowds or queues. We really enjoyed it, although it was the only place on our trip where I felt the guides were looking for a tip.
Keep the report coming - it's great!
Love your photos! Shame about le Gouffre de Padirac! Can't wait to hear how you liked Marquessac! Although I can certainly guess!!
Wed. was a splendid, sunny day. A good day for Marqueyssac Gardens. We had seen photos on the internet of this magnificent place, and they were beautiful, but the drama of this landscape must be felt in person.
We arrived at opening (10am) so not many people. By the time we left 3-1/2 hrs. later it was crowded. 7.50 Euro each.
There are 2 paths up to the Belvedere. The road leading from the restaurant is wider and an easier walk. We chose the harder, hillier path through the woods. Overlooking the river, there were many outlooks with superb views.
It was calm and peaceful with unusual plantings everywhere. The magnificient view from the Belvedere is not to be missed. The boats on the river, La Roque Gageac in the distance, quite a sight.
We returned by the easier road for a look at that side of the gardens. While pretty, this road didn't have the dramatic sense of the harder trek.
Arriving at the restaurant the peacocks were strutting around looking for handouts. It was tempting to linger & lunch here but we decided to move on to La Roque & the boats. After all, the weather was perfect for a ride on the river.
We enjoyed an excellent salad nicoise in a cafe along the river in La Roque. 24 Euros
Proceeded to the boats only to find out that a space was available in 1-1/2 hrs.
TIP: Get your boat tickets, then have lunch.
That gave us time to hike up to the tropical gardens halfway up the hill in LaRoque. It was small & pretty but after Marqueyssac a bit of a letdown.
After hiking up & down hills for miles & miles a relaxing boat ride in the sun was just what we needed. 18 Euros
At purchase we were never asked about language, but our ticket must have had a code on it because when we boarded the girl said, "here is your English translation headset." We also heard her giving out German, etc. headsets without asking. Obviously the ticket clerk was observant. Efficiently run, this was a good tour.
It was beautiful on the river and the English translation was quite interesting.
Example: Long ago, the boats were only capable of traveling downstream. Upstream was too difficult. They built the boats of wood & loaded cargo. When they got downstream to their destination they sold the cargo, dismantled the boat & sold the wood, then walked back to their starting point and did it all over again.
As we were viewing Marqueyssac from the boat we couldn't believe we had hiked all of it. The garden looked extremely long from the river. Oh well, definitely worked off those morning pastries!
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Marquessac%20Gardens-%20La%20Roque%20Gageac-%20Boat%20Trip/IMG_3962_zps2fd37205.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Marquessac%20Gardens-%20La%20Roque%20Gageac-%20Boat%20Trip/IMG_3962_zps2fd37205.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=135031020943701273260166232667
Extremely hungry we headed to Chez Le Gaulois for another great Tartiflette. Beatrice remembered us by name which was nice. She obviously loves her job and meeting the people or she couldn't be so enthusiastic.
Should we have tried another of the many restaurants in Sarlat? Yes, and we did. We went to recommended ZIN 10 and left without ordering. Around 7ish, we were the only diners in the room. As we looked at the menu, some friends of the staff were all chatting loudly, then it happened---Michael Jackson music blared! Sorry, but at those prices, at any prices for that matter, we are not going to enjoy wine & dinner listening to MJ. There's a lot of competition in Sarlat that is in nicer surroundings.
Our dinner at Chez Le Goulois was excellent again. I recommend it highly.
2 Tartiflette
Appleberry crumble
Wine 45 Euros
BTW, the background music here was more to our liking. Emmy Lou Harris, Dire Straits---OK, to each his own! If you like MJ, go to Zin 10.
Thanks for following along.
Tomorrow another wonderful day at Font de Gaume, Les Milandes, Castelnaud, and dinner at La Gabarre.
You are making it very hard for me to wait until next September when we return to the Dordogne! And yes, your pictures are wonderful!
Interesting about your experience at Gouffre de Padirac. Ours was completely opposite. No line...great (and funny guides) both on the boat and on the 1/2 hour walking tour. Each guide gave their spiel 1/2 in French and 1/2 in English. Luck of the draw, I guess. We also had a terrific meal at L'Instant Delice.
Did you like Eyrignac or Marqueyssac better? I will be traveling with my husband and 15 year old son. So one garden is probably the max we will do.
I am really enjoying your trip report and photos.
Digbydog---both were outstanding. After taking the advice of many Fodorites we toured Eyrignac 1st, then Marqueyssac. If I were to choose only one, I would choose Marqueyssac, especially with a teen in tow. Climbing the trails through the woods up to the Belvedere would probably be more fun than the more formal gardens of Eyrignac.
maitaitom---did you mention restaurant L'Instant Delice in a question on Sarlat? I was trying to remember who suggested it and I thought it might be you.
Kansas,
taconic, &
AGM------I'm glad you are enjoying my report. I found so many suggestions from your extensive TR's before we left.
I hope I've inspired others as much as your TRs inspired me.
Thanks also to Carlux and StCirq for your font of knowledge on the area.
Nikki---I looked up your informative TR on Toulouse and it makes me want to return to see more of that lovely city.
I'm working on the photos for my next post---soon.
I would second the recommedation for Marqueyssac if there is a teen in tow. Eyrignac is a beautiful garden, but much more 'garden' than Marqueyssac, which has great views and interesting paths.
Great report. Thanks!
Beautiful photos....now there's another area we must add to the list of places to visit.
Thurs. was to be our last day in Sarlat and again the weather was sunny. More almond croissants for breakfast---I just can't get enough of those. This has got to stop!
We had a 10:30am reservation at Font de Gaume. 10 Euros each. After the debacle at G de P we weren't so sure about this. What a different experience on this day.
FONT DE GAUME is a classy, well organized sight. Only 100 guests (10 groups of 10) are allowed a day. We made the reservation several months in advance. Our small group was led by an excellent guide. It was in English and he was well understood. His passion for his work was contagious. He grabbed our interest from the beginning.
Dimly lit, he used a special light to show the drawings as a bright light would start to destroy them. He was so enthusiastic in telling the stories of drawings made 15,000 years ago.
He said that there are about 400 caves in Southern France & Spain, but only 10 have drawings of this nature. It was amazing how they drew the animals in specific places on the rocks to almost look like 3D. They would use a bump in the rock to locate the hump on a bison's back.
What kind of people were these phenomenal artists? How did they communicate? I've never had a great interest in things prehistoric, but this wonderful guide made the age come alive.
As we walked slowly along he had to turn dim lights on as we approached each drawing. They are so careful about the maintenance of this cave, but still fear that it will be closed soon to preserve it.
Each group is only allowed in the cave for a certain amount of time. I'm guessing 30-40 min. It was all so interesting that the time just flew by. Soon he said that our time was up.
Next we had planned to go into Les Eyzies and on to Madeliene but we were running out of time so we moved on to:
CHATEAU DES MILANDES
We really didn't know much about Josephine Baker but it was recommended so off we went. Gorgeous day, gorgeous flowers, beautifully restored furnished house, we really enjoyed it.
Her, odd in my book, music was playing in the chateau. Many of her costumes were displayed and the information available was easy to read.
To see that she served in the intelligence service and slept in a pup-tent was quite interesting. Also interesting was the fact that she relayed secret messages by having them written in invisible ink on her musical scores. In this age of technology that really hit home. Invisible ink? Who thought that that was really used at one time.
The grounds are filled with flowers and there is a bird show at 3pm. We didn't stay for the show but looked at the birds in their cages. Quite a nice variety, I would think the show would be fun. 9 Euros each.
Over to Domme, we drove up as far as we could It was very crowded and parking was a nightmare so we didn't stay. Something to save for next time along with Les Eyzies.
On to Castelnaud. I had read "Castle in my Backyard" along with many others and I wanted to see this town. It was one of the "cutest" (there's that dreaded word again) we had been to. Steep hills, flowers everywhere. Oh my aching legs! We looked around and took some photos but didn't go up into the castle itself--again we'll save it for next time.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Font%20de%20Gaume-Les%20Milandes-Castlenaud/France2012178_zpsb6dc7bb1.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Font%20de%20Gaume-Les%20Milandes-Castlenaud/France2012178_zpsb6dc7bb1.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=135040737584304015020283492644
We stopped at La Gabarre restaurant to make a reservation for that night. We had looked for it yesterday and weren't able to find it. As we drove from Font de Gaume the signs for the restaurant were right there on the Beynac side as we crossed the river. From the south side it's not so easy to find.
La Gabarre gets such good reviews but I guess all I can say was that it was nice. The woman who took our reservation during the day was a delight. She also turned out to be our server for dinner.
Arriving at 7:30 we were the only diners in the room. A bit awkward I might say. My favorite wine is from the Sancerre region and the bottle I chose was one of the best I've had anywhere.
I chose Gambas for a starter. Huge with the heads and shells on, they were tasty but very messy to eat. MDH started with Foie Gras which he loves. Good but not great.
Next came tournedoes of beef, excellent, and dauphinouise potatoes, again excellent. The chef served the main course so that was a nice touch.
Dessert was chocolate mousse and a walnut souffle, again both good but not great.
As we were on our main course another couple finally came in to dine. That was it for guests. We joked with them as we were leaving, "It was fun having dinner with you" even though we hadn't said a word to each other. About 100 Euros.
You know it was a nice place and they were very gracious but I guess being in an empty room from 7:30 to 9pm on a Thurs. evening doesn't give you the best feeling. The main course & wine were excellent, the rest just average. For 100 Euros(probably $130 US) we expected more. Photos from dinner.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Dinner%20at%20La%20Gabarre/France2012185_zps2a1553a3.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Dinner%20at%20La%20Gabarre/France2012185_zps2a1553a3.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=1350413769139026445957717295615
Tomorrow we drive to Brieve and get the train to Paris---
Sorry you didn't have a great time at La Gabarre. We have just come home from dinner there, after a cooking course, and it was delightful - good food, lots of fun, good friends. I'll try to put up some photos tomorrow.
Valentine, who is probably the person who served you, and Ludovic, the chef, run the restaurant (Anselme their small son, is also often around the place.) For us it's a delight to have such a good restaurant in the area.
Here's a few more photos taken around Sarlat.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/library/Around%20Sarlat
In 1 weeks time we saw some beautiful sites. There is so much more that we just couldn't fit it. As I said earlier, we like to take our time and not just rush through a place so that we can say that wew were there.
Sarlat was an excellent location to base in and tour the area. Yes, it's a busy city, but the old town is mostly pedestrian and really pleasant in the morning and at night. From noon until 4pm or so there are lots of tour buses but we were off on tour ourselves at thet time so it didn't bother us at all.
The road that rings the old town is very easy to figure out and by day 2 we were zipping in and out quite quickly. As far as restaurants in Sarlat go, there are way too many with the exact same menu. The quality is hit & miss. I guess with all the buses and tourists the restaurants don't feel the need to stand out---they'll probably only see you once, so take the money & run. I guess you just have to read the reviews and take your chances.
A restaurant that we really wanted to try was "L'Assiette de Foie Gras" in Sarlat across from Le Presidial. We walked there 3 times and it was closed. We later found out that it was only open for lunch at this time of year. Too bad, it looked good.
As far as dinner reservations, we found that if you arrived at 7:15-7:30 you would most likely get a table. By 8pm everything was full, good & bad.
Would we return? Maybe, to catch the places we didn't have time for.
Nice report on Sarlat and environs. We like to travel as you do, and NOT rush around from dawn to dusk, so it makes me feel good that you saw so much in your week there.
It was a very quick and easy drive to Brive. We filled up in Sarlat the night before. It was hard to believe that we only used 3/4 tank of diesel with all the running around we did. We had a Renault Twingo, small but perfect for the area.
We arrived at the train station early enough to change our 5pm tickets to the 1pm train. 4 hours later we were in Paris. Even though it was pouring rain, the taxi line was moving fast.
Our favorite city, this was our 9th visit to Paris. We were only to be here a few days so a hotel was in order.
The last 4 years we stayed in apt's on Ile St. Louis which made this a totally different experience. Actually it didn't seem right--we should be on ISL.
Hotel Henri IV Rive Gauche
http://www.tripadvisor.com/ShowUserReviews-g187147-d282186-on36-Henri_IV_Rive_Gauche_Hotel-Paris_Ile_de_France.html#UR16736069
The lobby and public rooms were decorated nicely. Our room #602 was attractive and comfortable. Small in size but a king bed, desk & chair, and--surprise--a view of the Eiffel Tower over the roof top of St. Severin. Beautiful at night. At around 225 Euros a night, not cheap, but we though it was a good value as the property itself was nice and we could walk everywhere.
Just a few blocks from Notre Dame it was convenient to walk to our favorite places. On the negative side, the immediate surroundings were kind of junky. Next door a take away sandwich place and some cheap souvenir shops and across the street the long blank wall of St. Severin.
The reason I mention this is that if this were your 1st trip to paris you would think it was not a very nice area. Walk 1 block and the area improved. Totally safe & convenient, just not very pretty.
The hotel had made a reservation for us(no internet reservations accepted) at Marco Polo for that night. It was a Fri. and we know how hard it is to get in there on a weekend. MDH's favorite, we go there every time we are in Paris. Yes, it's Italian but most of the guests are French. We sat next to a great Parisian couple and had a fun chat with them. The owner always acts like he remembers us although I believe he's just a good business man and wants to make you feel comfortable.
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d794359-Reviews-Marco_Polo-Paris_Ile_de_France.html
Melon & prosciutto, patsa, tiramisu, wine, & coffee 80 Euros
After walking there in the rather cold rain it was nice to be welcomed and have a good meal with good conversation.
Rain---that's the theme of our time in Paris this year. Through the years we have encountered all kinds of weather but this was just depressing. Usually we would enjoy a walk by the river after dinner, people watching and enjoying the musicians---none of that this year, just miserable rain.
The hotel had a very good breakfast for 12 Euros each.
Croissants, baguettes, pan au chocolate, cereal, fruit, yogurt, ham, sausage, OJ, coffee. We probably would have walked to an outside cafe one morning but the weather didn't permit.
Finally the sun came out at midday for a few hours and we spent some time in Luxembourg Gardens, another favorite of ours. A jazz type concert was going on so we had a coffee and listened for a while. All the flowers around the pond were in shades of yellow this year and in full bloom.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Paris%202012/IMG_4281_zps81a61b3b.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Paris%202012/IMG_4281_zps81a61b3b.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=135049070578109037709380857986
The rain came in again and we did a little shopping. Back to the hotel to relax a bit before dinner. This is when we like having an apt. instead of a hotel room---have a snack, a glass of wine, a little music, read for a while---just not the same, or even doable in a hotel room.
Fantastic dinner at Le Reminet
http://www.lereminet.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d719235-Reviews-Le_Reminet-Paris_Ile_de_France.html
We booked this on The Fork as the place is really small and it was a Sat. night. Le Reminet will definitely go on our repeat list--it was so good.
OhOh, gotta run. I'll finish this later, including food photos of this wonderful dinner.
Le Reminet is on the Left Bank across from Notre Dame. In years past we dined several times at Guy Savoy's "Atelier Maitre Albert" restaurant(another good choice.) It is right around the corner from Reminet, and we made note of "the cute purple" restaurant--which is now painted dark red.
Le Reminet has made the most of a very small space. With white table cloths, fresh pink roses, and tall candlesticks on each table, it was warm, inviting, and comfortable from the moment we were seated.
The staff was excellent, thankfully spoke English, took time to explain the menu, and didn't rush us. The service was spot on, timing perfect, wine bottle was monitored and glasses were refilled promptly.
Presentation of the food was picture perfect. Each item was a treat to the eye. Every bite was savored, the flavors outstanding.
Amuse Bouche--a shot of pureed shrimp soup
Gazpacho with goat cheese, avocado mousse
Foie Gras (MDH rated the best of the trip)
Filet of Beef
Sea Bass
Macron ala Rose & a gingerbread (both fantastic)
Sancere Blanc wine & coffee
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Restaurants%20in%20Paris/France12-1018_zps8665fb0d.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Restaurants%20in%20Paris/France12-1018_zps8665fb0d.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=135065968381201011903847484722
Here's a big surprise---135 Euros minus 40%(-38 Euros)= 97 Euros final bill. When we booked on The Fork they did have some discounts but none were listed for Sat. night so it was a surprise to us. Such a deal even at full price but at the discount price it was like getting the 34 Euro bottle of wine free.
With this memorable food and service we will definitely return. Congratulations to the chef & staff.
Normally we would have walked along the Seine after dinner, but rain prevented that. It's a good thing the hotel had large, substantial umbrells to use.
The next 2 days---more rain! This was getting old.
We went to the Cluny Museum. The Moyen Age is not our favorite so it hadn't been on our list in the past. Actually it was quite enjoyable. The tapestries were beautiful, but the most interesting to us was the sculpture room.
The headless statues once stood on Notre Dame, then were vandalized and the heads chopped off and buried.
Other than that it was mostly shopping and eating--nothing wrong with that!
Dinner at L'Ilot Vache on Ile St. Louis
http://restaurant-ilotvache.com/index.php?l=en&e=1&mod=0&inco=presentation
I absolutely love this place. The room is so attractive, the staff charming, and the food wonderful. I've had the lamb chops here many, many times and they are always perfect. They have a price fix dinner with several choices for starter, main, and dessert for 36 Euros.
2 Avocado Terrine starters
Lamb chops, beef brochette, outstanding dauphinoise potatoes
Floating Island & Tart Tatin desserts
1/2 bottle of Rose & coffee
92 Euros
It was pouring heavily outside so we lingered over coffee chatting with a South American couple next to us until it let up a bit.
Our last day, more pouring rain. In our 9 visits to Paris this was the worst continuous weather we encountered. We've had rain but never on every single day & night. Then, of course, we were really spoiled last year when it was 80 degrees every day and 75 at night for 9 days straight. Oh well, such is life!
Last dinner was a return to Marco Polo--MDH loves this place. Again a marvelous meal.
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/LIlot%20Vache-Paris/France12-1017_zpsfb939aee.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/LIlot%20Vache-Paris/France12-1017_zpsfb939aee.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=1350660848609004579286781129721
Melon & proscuitto & artichoke salad starters
Pasta & Veal Milanese
2 berry tarts (MP's specialty)
1/2 carafe wine & coffee
109 Euros
Even with the rain, we still love Paris. It will be back to Ile St. Louis again the next time we visit. We missed the ease of an apt. and the quiet streets of the island.
I hope my lengthy report and details will be of some help. We have gained such insight from the Fodorites reports through the years. You have posted information that is invaluable in planning a trip.
Travel On!!!
Oh, TPAYT....you are killing me. I haven't been to Luxembourg Gardens in so long, so I enjoyed your photos. But, the Marco Polo "taunts" are really getting to me! We love MP and Albano is a treasure. All your Paris meals sounded good....as always the Sancerre does especially!
We have always skipped the Cluny but have heard good things....we just haven't made it yet.
The link to Le Reminet is not working for me...anyone else. i get a home page to photobucket.
denisea---
I posted 3 sites
1.Le Reminet home site--works for me
If not Google it & you'll get to the site.
2.Trip Advisor, Le Reminet--also works and in the beginning of the reviews on TA is also the home Le Reminet website to click on.
3.Le Reminet Photobucket photos
Yes, you haven't been to Lux. for a long time but it sounds like you had a fabulous time in Rome.
Paris, Rome---what name droppers we've become!
It was the photo bucket link just under Sancerre Blanc....it just gets me to the photo bucket home page.
Yeah, I know....I just want to go everywhere, all the time. But, I am not independently wealthy so I have to whine about how much miss Paris and now Rome. Quite sure no one is feeling too sorry for me....I have a great life and have been to some amazing places! All good.
TPAYT,
I posted again on the other one re photobucket..It does work as it did before for just the one photo with doing as I said.
a bientot...
Joan
denisea---here it is. It was in the post from the previous day
http://www.lereminet.com/
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187147-d719235-Reviews-Le_Reminet-Paris_Ile_de_France.html
Joan---thanks, I'll try it again.
Wonderful TPAYT! Thank you very much for all of the detail.
denisea---I just saw that the photobucket link to Le Reminet wasn't working---sorry.
Here it is again
Photos of Le Reminet
http://s708.beta.photobucket.com/user/TMPAYT/media/Le%20Reminet-%20Paris/France12-1018_zps8665fb0d.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0#/user/TMPAYT/media/Le%20Reminet-%20Paris/France12-1018_zps8665fb0d.jpg.html?sort=2&o=0&_suid=1350769114375008260328700479141
From Gazpacho to Macaron the photos should be here. These were my best food photos.
Chaz and I are salivating! Looks great! We are working on short ribs and mashed potatoes for dinner.
Tpayt: thanks for new link to photos from Le Reminet. I couldn't open the earlier one either. These are mouth-watering! Great report.
Loved your trip report.
Brought back so many lovely memories of our time in Sarlat a few years ago.
We have just returned home from a visit to Belgium, Normandy, Brittany, Loire and of course a little time again in Paris.
I am so impressed with your excellent trip report and photos so soon after your trip. Well done!
aussie_10---Thanks, I'm gald you enjoyed my report. Sometimes I think I get too caught up in details and therefore might be boring to read.
Talk about details, your TR of Sarlat, La Roque, Font de Gaume, etc. was so informative. I got lots of ideas and made many notes. These TRs and Q&As are what makes Fodors Forums so valuable.
Look forward to your TR on your recent trip. We haven't been to Belgium(but Brugge is on our list) Normandy, or Brittany, so it will be great to get your take on it. We have been to The Loire Valley twice and of course Paris so it will be fun to relive our travels with you.
'Would we return? Maybe, to catch the places we didn't have time for.'
There are so many places you didnt have time for. Check out St Genies and St Crepin.
http://cettesemaineacarlux.blogspot.fr/2012/10/14-octobre-deux-de-nos-lieux-preferes.html
Carlux---yes, there is so much more to see. St. Genies & St. Crepin were on my list along with many more places that you and others recommended. So much beauty--so little time.