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Top Ten In Scotland

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This is for Melissa who asked on another thread for my best place in Scotland. I said it wasn’t fair to ask me to pick one place but I’d have a go at a top ten. These are my suggestions. In my own defence I’d like to say that there are some world class places I haven’t listed because I haven’t been there yet - Orkney, Shetland and the southern Hebrides (North & South Uist, Barra, Benbecula) for example. Other places such as the South West I visited so long ago that the details are a bit vague. There’s also an inevitable bias towards places within a day trip of where I live as these are the places I will have visited lots of times. Feel free to offer as many other candidates for a top ten as you want (let’s face it, could I stop you if I wanted to?) - if we finish with a hundred unmissable places rather than just ten, maybe ten times as many people will come to Scotland to see for themselves.
1 - Best place overall has to be the north west highlands, especially the coastal strip from Gairloch to Lochinver. The sea is more shades of blue than you thought possible, the air is so clear you can see for ever, and you could easily go through several rolls of film per day. Between Ullapool and Lochinver the only road heads inland to a landscape like no other, isolated peaks rising sheer out of the moorland.
2- The Isle of Gigha just off the south west coast is something special. This is partly because of its recent history. After appalling treatment from their last landowner, when the island came up for sale the locals formed their own charitable trust and bought the island. An energetic person could walk round the island in a day but it has lots of hidden corners waiting to be discovered. The only hotel serves good food and has a very friendly pub, the only shop will sell everything you need for a self catering (vacation rental) stay, and if you can see two cars driving at the same time it counts as a traffic jam.
3 - The Isle of Lewis. Avoid the temptation to "do" the island in a day and move on, you need to spend longer to really absorb the atmosphere. The beach at Uig (not to be confused with Uig on Skye) will blow your mind. I’m reliably informed that the beach at Luskentyre on the Isle of Harris is even better but I’ve never been there (yet). At Uig they found a huge hoard of carved chess pieces of Norse origin, dating from about the 11th century. They’re in the National Museum in Edinburgh despite calls from some locals to send them back to Lewis.
4 - While you’re on Lewis, and no apologies for giving this a place on its own, most awesome historical sites are the broch (ancient stone tower, probably defensive) at Carloway, and the standing stones at Callanish. Go to Carloway first, have a good look at the broch, marvel that it has stood there for at least 2,000 years - then look at the Callanish stones on the horizon and try to get your head round the fact that they were over 2,000 years old when the Carloway broch was built. I’m not going to get into the argument about whether Callanish is better than Stonehenge in England, but it’s definitely in the same league.
5 - Oh dear, number 5 already and despite having lived near the east coast for over 20 years there’s a wee bit of a bias towards the west coast so far. Number 5 is the coast of Fife from Leven to St Andrews. My favourite stretch of all is from Largo to Elie. Just south of Elie the coastal footpath climbs several hundred feet up above some cliffs, and on a sunny day the view back over the golf course, village and sea is unforgettable. Earlsferry (the next village to Elie) has a very special pub which does great beer and good food. Golfers will rightly head for St Andrews; while you’re there, check out the beach walks north and south (or both?) of the town. Caution - if you head north along the West Sands (along the edge of the Old Course), stay near the top of the beach when you approach the mouth of the River Eden, unless you have checked the tide times - the tide goes out (and comes back in!) a long, long way and every year somebody gets stranded and they have to send out a lifeboat. Stay close to the top of the beach and you’ll be perfectly safe. When you reach the Eden you are almost guaranteed to see seals (I’m convinced they all pop up for a look at these strange human creatures).
6 - For something different from all these island and coastal marvels, try Perthshire. In terms of worldwide fame most of its attractions are maybe not too well known, but taken together they definitely deserve a day or two of your holiday. Scone Palace (pronounced Scoon) is the ancient coronation place of Scots kings and queens, the Stone of Scone (Stone of Destiny) now being safely back in Scotland after being stolen from us in the 14th century (it came home briefly in the 1950’s after being liberated from London). Unless of course you believe the very persistent story that Edward of England got fobbed off with a fake and the real stone is safely hidden away, waiting for the great day. Perth itself is one of our smaller cities but has a terrific setting beside the River Tay. There are still lots of independent local shops waiting to be discovered if you go a few minutes walk from the main shopping centre. A brand new and very impressive looking concert hall is being built. Perthshire has played an important part in the history of forestry in Scotland and has marketed this very cleverly by calling itself "Big Tree Country". Near Blairgowrie is the biggest beech hedge in Britain / Europe / Solar System depending on which record book you believe; Fortingall, a tiny village near the incomparable Glen Lyon, has a Yew tree which could well be the oldest living thing in Europe (it also claims, optimistically, to be the birthplace of Pontious Pilate, not sure if that’s something to boast about); the Hermitage near Dunkeld has a Douglas Fir which is one of two contenders for tallest living thing in the UK; in the grounds of Dunkeld House Hotel are some of the first larch trees ever grown in Scotland (if the hotel itself is within your budget, go there - ask for the Study / Library bedroom or one similar). Pitlochry, Crieff, Aberfeldy are all good towns for an hour or two of wandering; Pitlochry can be a bit over touristy but is redeemed by having the Moulin Inn a mile or so up the hill. For the more energetic, Perthshire’s hills are for the most part less well known than some, but they have a magical atmosphere all of their own.
7 - Sea cliffs. There are some mind blowing cliffs around our coast. Unless you’re a real enthusiast you won’t want to visit them all, but wherever you are there will be at least one within a day trip. St Abb’s Head in the south east, near the English border; just past Arbroath further up the east coast; Waternish Point in north west Skye, just a few that come immediately to mind. I’ve said nice things about the Cliffs of Moher in Ireland on several threads; any one of these will be just as breathtaking, with about one hundredth of the crowds.
8 - Forth Bridges. NB for the anoraks - the correct names are the Forth Road Bridge and the Forth Bridge; the "rail bridge" was the only one for about 80 years, so after being "The Forth Bridge" for so long she deserves to keep the title for the rest of her days. We maybe take these for granted as we see them every day, but the combination of uncompromising 19th century strength alongside the elegance of the 1960’s road bridge is a bit special. You get a good view of either when you cross the other (unless you’re driving) but to see them both to advantage drive along the south Fife coast road from Kirkcaldy towards Inverkeithing and stop at any of the roadside parking areas. There’s also a big car park and viewing area off the A904 road on the south side (west of the bridges). Some of the signposted viewpoints closer to one or other bridge are actually too close to really see them, though they leave you in no doubt about the huge scale of both (they were both the biggest of their type in the world when they were built). While in the area, South Queensferry has some wonderful places to eat; arrive early on a nice summer evening, walk along the waterfront and take your pick of restaurants.
9 - Best nature watching experiences. OK, this is cheating as it’s not a single place but hey, I make up the rules as I go along. Ospreys at Vane Farm (Loch Leven) in Kinross-shire, Loch O’ The Lowes near Dunkeld, Loch Garten in Inverness-shire, Spey Bay on the Moray Firth; Otters at Kylerhea on Skye (take the teeny wee ferry from Glenelg on the mainland - watch out for dolphins & porpoises on the way across); Dolphins in the Moray Firth - North Kessock and Chanonry Point are the best places; Red Kites on the Black Isle north of Inverness; White Tailed Sea Eagles on Mull; Gannets nesting on the Bass Rock off East Lothian; almost anywhere out of earshot of traffic and town noises, just stand still and listen....
10 - Best first impressions. If you’re coming by road from England, take the detour by the A68 road from Newcastle on Tyne to Jedburgh. It’s slower than the main M6 / M74 to the west or the A1 up the east coast, but the scenery unfolds and unfolds with wonderful effect until you pass the flag on the border - the first time I drove this road I nearly had an accident because I instinctively took my hands off the wheel and cheered. By air, if you fly into Edinburgh pray for a south wind and they’ll probably take you past the airport, circle the Firth of Forth, over the Forth Bridges, and down; flying into Glasgow if you’re very good you might be allowed to "stack" while Air Traffic Control finds a landing slot for you - this involves at least one circuit along the very edge of the highlands in perfect weather (of course!) and you’ll be pleading for another go when the nasty old pilot announces that they’re going to land the plane. To be really different, take the Superfast ferry from Zeebrugge in Belgium. It’s an overnight crossing so you wake up just in time to see Edinburgh and the Lothians on the left (port, as seafaring chaps call it), God’s own Kingdom of Fife to starboard, you sail right under the Forth Bridges with perhaps just a tiny peek at Ben Lomond and other mountains as you pull in to dock at Rosyth.
11 - (Come on, who doesn’t think their own homeland is worth 11 out of 10?). Best things about a holiday in Scotland. (1) planning it. (2) doing it. (3) planning the next one.
PS They made me post this under United Kingdom as they don't have a Scotland one yet :-(

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