carwahl

Hi - I've got three weeks with my husband and 15 yo son in May, we're landing and departing from Budapest (only place available with ff miles)but our main interest is Croatia (mostly), Bosnia (Mostar mostly), Montenegro, possibly a run into Kosovo (Pec). I visited these places many times, but years and years ago. We are really into the folk music there, hiking, and all other great things. Advice needed:

1) Plan was to take train to and from Zagreb, and drive the rest. Am now considering train to Zagreb, drive around and leave car in Dubrovnik, take train back to Budapest. Ideas or thoughts?

2) We plan to stay mostly in sobes, but if you have a place that is reservable with an especially good view, say, I'd love to know the details.

3) do you agree with me that this is too short a time to see Macedonia too?

4) how do you say "truffle" in Croatian, and is May in season?

Sharane

You may want to reconsider Kosovo depending on how events unfold prior to your trip.

Lake Ohrid in Macedonia is worth a visit but doesn't look like you will have the time

thursdaysd

You may want to reconsider the Budapest to Zagreb train. I did it the other way and it it took a very long time and was very hot... I just looked at the schedules on bahn.de and you either have to change or arrive late in the evening, and it still takes at least 7 hours unless you arrive at 23:00. There's also a shortage of Intercity trains.

gertie3751

Can I chime in here?
I'm planning (not very tightly) a trip through the Balkans mainly by train in July. Was thinking of going from Graz-Ljubljana-Zagreb-Sarajevo stopping a day or so in each, then by bus to Mostar and Dubrovnik. Maybe a little trip to Kotor. Then a ferry along the Croatian coast to Split.
Are the trains reliable? What's this about it being very hot?
I wasn't planning on reserving ahead (just me) and also intending to stay in sobes.
Sorry I don't know about truffles in May: we had some in Buzet in Istria last August and they were good. Also don't know how to say it in Croatian as we had Croatian friends who did the talking for us.

thursdaysd

I took the train from Zagreb to Budapest on a sunny Sunday in the middle of July 2004. It was not an Intercity or Eurocity and it did not have air conditioning. Not surprisingly, it got very hot inside. Standing by the open window in the corridor helped some, but not much.

gertie3751

Presume you just bought your tickets as you went. Can you just show up ahead of time and get on the train? Were the trains roughly on time? Were they crowded?

thursdaysd

Yes, I bought my tickets in Central and Eastern Europe as I went - usually a few days ahead of time. You can't generalize about the trains - it varies by country and by type of train. In general Intercity and Eurocity are modern rolling stock with AC and are more likely to be on time. The further east I went the older and shabbier the rolling stock, and the slower the trains.

carwahl

Thanks for the tips. I will definitely reconsider the train. We're renting a car in Zagreb anyway, why not do it in Budapest? And, if we skip getting the authorization to go take the car to go to Montenegro and Bosnia we will save there, too. I really loved Pec many years ago, and wonder if it will still be as magical as it was for me then. We could possibly just take a bus there. One important question: How difficult is it, if you decide against getting a car which allows you to go out of Croatia, to change your mind? Is that do-able for a reasonable cost?

global_guy

Having been to Pec/Peja very recently, I would guess that it's lost some of the wonder and magic it had...as you're no doubt aware, the city was quite devastated. That being said, seeing it rebuild itself and witnessing the spirit of the city provides a magic of its own so I would say you should try to go.

As a word of caution or advice; when you get to the Kosovo border (and especially in Kosovo) refer to the city by its Albanian name, Peja, and the locals will appreciate it.

Finally if you make it as far as Peja try to head down the highway about half an hour to Decani. The Serbian church there is a UNESCO site that is probably one of the least visited, but is very worthwhile. You'll have to find a monk to open the chapel for you, but the interior is striking.

carwahl

Thank you so much for this advice. I did not know the Albanian name - I'd better get an Albanian map before I take this trip. Unfortunately, that will be later, rather than sooner, as my normally athletic husband just ruined his knee in a fall and the surgeon said "no travel in May".

I am struggling with the decision to take my son on my own, or postpone.

In any case, I will note all of this valuable advice for the trip when I am finally able to take it. Thank you all so much.