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Three Weeks in Rome - Any suggestions...Please?

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We'll be in Rome for three weeks from the end of November and I'm hoping to get some guidance from you all.

I'm very excited about the trip, we'll be staying in a flat near the Campo de Fiori - so we're in the thick of things. My question is what would you recommend for someone who has a little more time to explore the city and has visited before. Any neighborhoods you'd recommend to walk around, churches, food markets, smaller museums, anywhere that needs to be booked in advance, anything off the beaten path or things on the beaten path we may have overlooked?

We've been to Rome for shorter visited on several occasions over the last ten years but haven't had enough time to go much beyond the center of town. We've visited the main tourist haunts, taken the Scavi tour, visited the Villa Borghese, the synagogue and Jewish Museum as well as the Protestant Cemetery and Testaccio.

This time we're hoping to make it out to Tivoli, Ostia Antica and the Appian Way which have been on my list for years. I'm looking forward to exploring the ethnographic collections at the Vatican, as well as seeing something of the modern art scene in Rome and hopefully exploring some of the neighborhoods further out from the center. I'd be happy to hear about things you had on a list and didn't get around to.

This is part of a longer trip which I'm calling the "Mad Dash Across Too Much" and I'll be posting on my blog and here at Fodors. I haven't had a lot of time to think about the Rome portion so I'd greatly appreciate any insights and suggestions.

Thanks in advance.

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