Three Weeks in Cote d' Azur, Provence and Languedoc
May 26th, 2013, 05:42 AM
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Three Weeks in Cote d' Azur, Provence and Languedoc
First, thanks to all on the forum who provided great advice (especially Stu Dudley’s comprehensive itineraries and commentary). I’m not going to try to replicate Stu’s and others’ extensive commentaries, nor repeat what’s in the guides (we use the Michelin Green guides and lately have been toting Rick Steves along). So, I’m tilting toward some practical advice, quick hotel and restaurant reviews, and some personal (and maybe peculiar) observations.
Nice
Nice exceeded our expectations. The city has three very good museums (Chagall, Matisse, and the Contemporary), and an easy bus ride, especially to the Chagall and Matisse gets you out and up the hill for a nice look at where folks live. We did an easy day trip by train to Antibes. Buses run west and north, but we decided to spend more time in Nice. The Cours Salyea is tourist central, but the cafes, restaurants, markets still make it a great place to be or be near.
Hotel Suisse Okay, but you pay a high price for the view. And how much time do you spend in your room or on the balcony?
Le Safari Good: two good meals in the bustle of the Cours which is an attraction itself.
Da Acchiardo Very good. A heavy tilt toward steak. Solid, very affordable. Many typical choices for entres and mains. A very nice room with mostly locals. No cards.
Le Comptoir du Marche Excellent. Warm room, pleasant staff, terrific and innovative food.
Antibes
A very nice and easy day trip by train from Nice. A congenial town with a great covered market. The Picasso Museum not only has very interesting art, but a terrific (sculpture filled) terrace with a great view of the port and Cap d' Antibes.
Aix en Provence
Aix is an easy and congenial city. We have nothing new to add to what you get in the guides.
Hotel du Globe Great value, very pleasant staff, nice rooms and breakfast. Book a place in their small garage. You don’t want to drive in central Aix, and you won’t be able to park.
Chez Feraud A very good dinner in a warm and pleasant room. A bit pricey wine list.
L’Alcove Excellent. Innovative takes on Provencal favorites (and surprises). Book ahead.
St. Remy
We had a gite for a week and took day trips out to Avignon, Arles, Nimes/Pont du Gard, Gordes, Roussillon, Lacoste, Orange/Vaison de Romaine. We generally had our main meal of the day in one of the towns or cities, picking what looked good from the street – and never disappointed. We came back to the gite for omelets, salads, ravioli, pate, cheese – and the bottle of wine we didn’t dare have navigating and negotiating the roads. (I wish we could get the 25cl pitchers and 50cl bottles regularly in the states.) The inner town is nice, but like the most popular towns, given over to tourist-oriented shops. (See below.)
Le Bistrot Découverte We had a very nice lunch in this highly recommended restaurant.
Carcassonne
This is a great divide, and we’re on the one – not three – star side. We were on our way to Albi, so we stopped. It’s too restored – dangerously close to The Magic Kingdom. And the fortress is largely empty inside. There is great stained glass in the cathedral, but by this point in the trip, we were sick of walking through small towns overwhelmed by tourist shops.
Albi
We loved Albi. Yes, the old town has the same up-market clothing, housewares, and specialty food stores as smaller towns, but Albi is big enough to absorb them within a working city. Lots of Albians (?) in the old town and shopping at the beautiful covered market (with its modern supermarche in the basement). St. Cecelia is a knockout inside (rood screen, paintings, and decorations) and out (spectacular flamboyant gothic porch). The Toulouse Lautrec museum is terrific and provides a broader and deeper appreciation of an artist who is too-often pegged by one or two popular posters and paintings.
Le Lautrec restaurant – One of the best all-around dinners of the trip. Innovative cuisine around regional classics in a beautiful room, warm service, and good prices.
Hotel Pastilleirs. Okay to good. Convenient location. Nearby free and safe parking. Pleasant staff, but rooms are okay at best.
Toulouse
We also loved Toulouse. It’s a big and vibrant city, and the center has a lot to see and enjoy. Be sure to go inside the Capitole (city hall) for its great rooms, staircases and paintings. The Place Woodrow Wilson is lively with cafes and restaurants. St. Sernin is a masterpiece, and Les Jacobins is a great example of a Dominican preaching church. (You can imagine St. Dominic preaching the Albigensian Crusade from inside this vast church/hall). The Musee de Augustins is wonderful – one of the best collections of Romanesque sculptures along with other art in a beautiful large monastery (with a lovely cloister).
Brasserie Beaux Arts: Very good. Mostly locals eating shellfish in this off-center restaurant on the quai. Very good fish, nice service. Expensive.
Brasserie d’Opera: On the main Capitole square. More tourists, wide menu. Nice service. Good, and much less expensive than Beaux Arts.
Hotel Albert 1e A very nice hotel just off the main square, but quiet. Well-appointed rooms, good service, and a very nice breakfast. All over, a very good value.
Some summary thoughts and suggestions.
Market day: We’re not shoppers, so I guess that’s the reason we think, you’ve seen one, you’ve seen most. (Sorry, Stu.) We can remember the first time we saw the market in Arles in the late 1970s. We thought we’d died and gone to heaven. Now we have three each week in our suburban town. We’ve enjoyed them throughout Europe and elsewhere for decades. And we still like to walk through them. The market in Antibes; the covered market in Albi; market (and flea market) day on the Cours in Nice are great to look at – and get some groceries if you are staying in a gite. But, market day means it’s a devil to park, and we tend to see the same non-food goods from place to place.
Luberon Hill Towns: These towns are great to look at. Gordes is probably the best, so make sure you take the pull-off before you get into town for your pictures. But parking in Gordes is almost non-existent. Be prepared for a long hike up from the out-of-town parking area. There’s another lot a km or so beyond the town and an easier walk down to the town. So, you might drive right through the town towards the upper lot. We got lucky and found a spot in the middle of Roussillon (which is probably why we liked it so much), but the availability of parking varies widely from day to day and time of day.
And towns and small cities in general: I know some on this forum have visited many, many towns and small cities in the Cote d’Azur, Provence, and Languedoc and enjoy the subtle differences among them. I am not in the “seen one….” camp but there is a sameness about the repeat of up-market housewares, clothing, and specialty food shops from town to town, especially in the most popular. So, I argue for being selective about which towns to visit and spending more time in one rather than trying to take in many. There’s a big difference between seeing the lovely town perched on the side of the hill and being in the town. (Dropped down into the streets in middle of Les Baux or Carcassonne, or other towns you would be hard pressed to tell the difference.)
It’s unfair to accuse these towns of being too “touristy,” but it wasn’t that long ago that they were virtually abandoned before we tourists showed up. The “authentic” Provence is more likely down in the valley where the folks can park their cars; the kids can play soccer; and the family can have bathrooms, kitchens and other mod cons unconstrained by 16th century construction.
Driving: Plan your driving ahead –and do it again!
Get your maps way ahead. Have your navigator plan your trip, and be prepared to lose direction signs at the most inconvenient places – especially in cities. Folks must figure that the signs got you to our town, so why should we worry about indicating the direction to the next town. Cavillion (coming and going) was especially egregious on this count. Roundabouts have taken over almost every town (thank goodness), and it’s sometimes not exactly clear which exit to take. So, slow down and go around again. We “churned butter” in a couple of cities. And for your navigator, know where you’re not going as well as other towns along your route that may be indicated. After much discussion here on the forum and elsewhere we decided to forgo our GPS in France. However, we used Via Michelin’s on-line trip planner (printed out at home) as an excellent supplement to the Michelin maps. They take a little getting used to, but they’re especially good on which exit off the roundabouts to take; what the autoroute signs are going to look like; precise distances between points; and even the toll amounts.
I’ve driven in many countries in Europe, and I love driving in France best. On the autoroutes, the trucks stay in the right lane; most drivers signal lane changes; there are only a few autobahn speeders in the left lane; and everyone seems to behave themselves. (Not like Sicily.) The other roads are generally pretty good. But I repeat: safe driving requires a savvy navigator. Plan ahead and don’t try to figure out where you’re going while you’re going.
Picking up a car in Nice: We picked up our rental car in the row of rental agencies next to the Albert 1e park. (Cars are in the underground garage.) It’s right off the Promenade d’Anglais and very easy for getting out of town. Picking up at the airport – no more than 2 km away – will cost you an additional 37E tax.
American credit cards: Don’t worry. Every restaurant and hotel that takes cards will swipe your American card. BUT stay out of the Telepage line (Yellow T only) and credit card line on the autoroutes: your card won’t work. The Yellow T and green are okay. And your card won’t work at pay-at-the-pump gas stations, so fill up when you see one with an attendant.
That’s it for now. I’ll stick around on this site and will be happy to answer any questions.
Nice
Nice exceeded our expectations. The city has three very good museums (Chagall, Matisse, and the Contemporary), and an easy bus ride, especially to the Chagall and Matisse gets you out and up the hill for a nice look at where folks live. We did an easy day trip by train to Antibes. Buses run west and north, but we decided to spend more time in Nice. The Cours Salyea is tourist central, but the cafes, restaurants, markets still make it a great place to be or be near.
Hotel Suisse Okay, but you pay a high price for the view. And how much time do you spend in your room or on the balcony?
Le Safari Good: two good meals in the bustle of the Cours which is an attraction itself.
Da Acchiardo Very good. A heavy tilt toward steak. Solid, very affordable. Many typical choices for entres and mains. A very nice room with mostly locals. No cards.
Le Comptoir du Marche Excellent. Warm room, pleasant staff, terrific and innovative food.
Antibes
A very nice and easy day trip by train from Nice. A congenial town with a great covered market. The Picasso Museum not only has very interesting art, but a terrific (sculpture filled) terrace with a great view of the port and Cap d' Antibes.
Aix en Provence
Aix is an easy and congenial city. We have nothing new to add to what you get in the guides.
Hotel du Globe Great value, very pleasant staff, nice rooms and breakfast. Book a place in their small garage. You don’t want to drive in central Aix, and you won’t be able to park.
Chez Feraud A very good dinner in a warm and pleasant room. A bit pricey wine list.
L’Alcove Excellent. Innovative takes on Provencal favorites (and surprises). Book ahead.
St. Remy
We had a gite for a week and took day trips out to Avignon, Arles, Nimes/Pont du Gard, Gordes, Roussillon, Lacoste, Orange/Vaison de Romaine. We generally had our main meal of the day in one of the towns or cities, picking what looked good from the street – and never disappointed. We came back to the gite for omelets, salads, ravioli, pate, cheese – and the bottle of wine we didn’t dare have navigating and negotiating the roads. (I wish we could get the 25cl pitchers and 50cl bottles regularly in the states.) The inner town is nice, but like the most popular towns, given over to tourist-oriented shops. (See below.)
Le Bistrot Découverte We had a very nice lunch in this highly recommended restaurant.
Carcassonne
This is a great divide, and we’re on the one – not three – star side. We were on our way to Albi, so we stopped. It’s too restored – dangerously close to The Magic Kingdom. And the fortress is largely empty inside. There is great stained glass in the cathedral, but by this point in the trip, we were sick of walking through small towns overwhelmed by tourist shops.
Albi
We loved Albi. Yes, the old town has the same up-market clothing, housewares, and specialty food stores as smaller towns, but Albi is big enough to absorb them within a working city. Lots of Albians (?) in the old town and shopping at the beautiful covered market (with its modern supermarche in the basement). St. Cecelia is a knockout inside (rood screen, paintings, and decorations) and out (spectacular flamboyant gothic porch). The Toulouse Lautrec museum is terrific and provides a broader and deeper appreciation of an artist who is too-often pegged by one or two popular posters and paintings.
Le Lautrec restaurant – One of the best all-around dinners of the trip. Innovative cuisine around regional classics in a beautiful room, warm service, and good prices.
Hotel Pastilleirs. Okay to good. Convenient location. Nearby free and safe parking. Pleasant staff, but rooms are okay at best.
Toulouse
We also loved Toulouse. It’s a big and vibrant city, and the center has a lot to see and enjoy. Be sure to go inside the Capitole (city hall) for its great rooms, staircases and paintings. The Place Woodrow Wilson is lively with cafes and restaurants. St. Sernin is a masterpiece, and Les Jacobins is a great example of a Dominican preaching church. (You can imagine St. Dominic preaching the Albigensian Crusade from inside this vast church/hall). The Musee de Augustins is wonderful – one of the best collections of Romanesque sculptures along with other art in a beautiful large monastery (with a lovely cloister).
Brasserie Beaux Arts: Very good. Mostly locals eating shellfish in this off-center restaurant on the quai. Very good fish, nice service. Expensive.
Brasserie d’Opera: On the main Capitole square. More tourists, wide menu. Nice service. Good, and much less expensive than Beaux Arts.
Hotel Albert 1e A very nice hotel just off the main square, but quiet. Well-appointed rooms, good service, and a very nice breakfast. All over, a very good value.
Some summary thoughts and suggestions.
Market day: We’re not shoppers, so I guess that’s the reason we think, you’ve seen one, you’ve seen most. (Sorry, Stu.) We can remember the first time we saw the market in Arles in the late 1970s. We thought we’d died and gone to heaven. Now we have three each week in our suburban town. We’ve enjoyed them throughout Europe and elsewhere for decades. And we still like to walk through them. The market in Antibes; the covered market in Albi; market (and flea market) day on the Cours in Nice are great to look at – and get some groceries if you are staying in a gite. But, market day means it’s a devil to park, and we tend to see the same non-food goods from place to place.
Luberon Hill Towns: These towns are great to look at. Gordes is probably the best, so make sure you take the pull-off before you get into town for your pictures. But parking in Gordes is almost non-existent. Be prepared for a long hike up from the out-of-town parking area. There’s another lot a km or so beyond the town and an easier walk down to the town. So, you might drive right through the town towards the upper lot. We got lucky and found a spot in the middle of Roussillon (which is probably why we liked it so much), but the availability of parking varies widely from day to day and time of day.
And towns and small cities in general: I know some on this forum have visited many, many towns and small cities in the Cote d’Azur, Provence, and Languedoc and enjoy the subtle differences among them. I am not in the “seen one….” camp but there is a sameness about the repeat of up-market housewares, clothing, and specialty food shops from town to town, especially in the most popular. So, I argue for being selective about which towns to visit and spending more time in one rather than trying to take in many. There’s a big difference between seeing the lovely town perched on the side of the hill and being in the town. (Dropped down into the streets in middle of Les Baux or Carcassonne, or other towns you would be hard pressed to tell the difference.)
It’s unfair to accuse these towns of being too “touristy,” but it wasn’t that long ago that they were virtually abandoned before we tourists showed up. The “authentic” Provence is more likely down in the valley where the folks can park their cars; the kids can play soccer; and the family can have bathrooms, kitchens and other mod cons unconstrained by 16th century construction.
Driving: Plan your driving ahead –and do it again!
Get your maps way ahead. Have your navigator plan your trip, and be prepared to lose direction signs at the most inconvenient places – especially in cities. Folks must figure that the signs got you to our town, so why should we worry about indicating the direction to the next town. Cavillion (coming and going) was especially egregious on this count. Roundabouts have taken over almost every town (thank goodness), and it’s sometimes not exactly clear which exit to take. So, slow down and go around again. We “churned butter” in a couple of cities. And for your navigator, know where you’re not going as well as other towns along your route that may be indicated. After much discussion here on the forum and elsewhere we decided to forgo our GPS in France. However, we used Via Michelin’s on-line trip planner (printed out at home) as an excellent supplement to the Michelin maps. They take a little getting used to, but they’re especially good on which exit off the roundabouts to take; what the autoroute signs are going to look like; precise distances between points; and even the toll amounts.
I’ve driven in many countries in Europe, and I love driving in France best. On the autoroutes, the trucks stay in the right lane; most drivers signal lane changes; there are only a few autobahn speeders in the left lane; and everyone seems to behave themselves. (Not like Sicily.) The other roads are generally pretty good. But I repeat: safe driving requires a savvy navigator. Plan ahead and don’t try to figure out where you’re going while you’re going.
Picking up a car in Nice: We picked up our rental car in the row of rental agencies next to the Albert 1e park. (Cars are in the underground garage.) It’s right off the Promenade d’Anglais and very easy for getting out of town. Picking up at the airport – no more than 2 km away – will cost you an additional 37E tax.
American credit cards: Don’t worry. Every restaurant and hotel that takes cards will swipe your American card. BUT stay out of the Telepage line (Yellow T only) and credit card line on the autoroutes: your card won’t work. The Yellow T and green are okay. And your card won’t work at pay-at-the-pump gas stations, so fill up when you see one with an attendant.
That’s it for now. I’ll stick around on this site and will be happy to answer any questions.
May 26th, 2013, 10:31 AM
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Nice report, PaoloCast. I'm the one who hijacked a thread about Luberon villages yesterday.
I'd like to hear more about what you did in Languedoc, say, not more than 1.5 hrs. from Uzes, where I"ll be staying with family group (5 of us, all in 70ies) in Oct. I have a pretty good idea of what I'd like us to see east of Uzes into Provence, from prior trips.
Last year I was in Uzes for a week with friends, and we went to Nimes, the Pont, Lussan, La Roque-sur-Ceze; however, this year two of our group have significant mobility problems so that presents some issues, of course. Any village where one could not be dropped off in the center would not work for us, such as Lussan, where we had a steep climb from the car park as I remember.
We do plan a day trip to Camargue, a day in Luberon villages, and I loved Uzes so much I'd be happy just hanging out there, but 3 of travelers have never been to this area and want to see as much as possible, given our limitations. The two who have trouble walking will probably spend a lot of time drinking coffee in cafes, and they say that's ok!
I'd be happy to hear of any places you visited that might be good for our senior group!
I'd like to hear more about what you did in Languedoc, say, not more than 1.5 hrs. from Uzes, where I"ll be staying with family group (5 of us, all in 70ies) in Oct. I have a pretty good idea of what I'd like us to see east of Uzes into Provence, from prior trips.
Last year I was in Uzes for a week with friends, and we went to Nimes, the Pont, Lussan, La Roque-sur-Ceze; however, this year two of our group have significant mobility problems so that presents some issues, of course. Any village where one could not be dropped off in the center would not work for us, such as Lussan, where we had a steep climb from the car park as I remember.
We do plan a day trip to Camargue, a day in Luberon villages, and I loved Uzes so much I'd be happy just hanging out there, but 3 of travelers have never been to this area and want to see as much as possible, given our limitations. The two who have trouble walking will probably spend a lot of time drinking coffee in cafes, and they say that's ok!
I'd be happy to hear of any places you visited that might be good for our senior group!
May 26th, 2013, 11:41 AM
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Thanks for the tips about the credit cards. I am a bit confused about the toll roads though. When we were in Portugal our rental car had a device which paid the tolls and we paid at the end. It sounds like in France you pay as you go? Are you saying we should get in cash lanes (which I assume are the green lines). What is the yellow T line? Thanks, we are going in a few weeks and can't wait.
May 26th, 2013, 11:55 AM
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Hi grandmere. As my report suggests, we're big fans of Albi. The old town has a "village" feel and is very accessible - relatively flat with wide (mostly) pedestrianized streets. The Toulouse Lautrec Museum has an elevator and is accessible. Lots of cafes and restaurants along with a terrific market.
Of the Luberon villages we visited, I think Roussillon is the most accessible. There is a decent sized parking lot right in the middle of town with at least a few handicap spots. From there, the streets are relatively less inclined than other towns -- with great views of the cliffs and the valley. And there are at least four or five good restaurants and cafes in a pleasant square with just a moderate walk up from the parking lot level. So, you probably have a decent shot at getting a parking spot, and if not, you can drop off whomever needs it and continue on a few hundred yards to the "upper" lot. My recollection is that several what seemed to be local folks were in and out of the center-of-town lot rather quickly (banking, post office, whatever?), so even if it looks full, I suggest hanging around for 10 minutes or so to see if someone is leaving. The "lower" lot is a heck of steep hike up to the town.
Of the Luberon villages we visited, I think Roussillon is the most accessible. There is a decent sized parking lot right in the middle of town with at least a few handicap spots. From there, the streets are relatively less inclined than other towns -- with great views of the cliffs and the valley. And there are at least four or five good restaurants and cafes in a pleasant square with just a moderate walk up from the parking lot level. So, you probably have a decent shot at getting a parking spot, and if not, you can drop off whomever needs it and continue on a few hundred yards to the "upper" lot. My recollection is that several what seemed to be local folks were in and out of the center-of-town lot rather quickly (banking, post office, whatever?), so even if it looks full, I suggest hanging around for 10 minutes or so to see if someone is leaving. The "lower" lot is a heck of steep hike up to the town.
May 27th, 2013, 03:40 AM
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Sberg,
I may have answered you on another post, but here goes on the autoroute peage. As you approach the toll booths you will see lanes with a big yellow T - they're for Telepeage only. Stay out. Some lanes have a Yellow T and what looks like a credit card. Stay out -- your American credit card won't work.
Go ONLY into a lane that has a green light. There may be a yellow T or a credit card indicated, but you are okay as long there is also a green light(which means cash taken). On the big autoroutes, there are usually at least 2-4 green lanes and they are typically toward the right side of the toll lanes.
On the autoroutes, the green lanes take bills and coins. So, for a 2.40E toll, you can insert a 10E note and get change in the coin bin. (I didn't and wouldn't try a 50E bill for a small toll, so have some 10s and 20s in hand.)
Don't rush. It takes a few seconds to read the toll on the screen, find the bill and coin slots, and get your change out of the coin bin. At first, you think all of France is in line behind you, but folks seemed very patient.
I may have answered you on another post, but here goes on the autoroute peage. As you approach the toll booths you will see lanes with a big yellow T - they're for Telepeage only. Stay out. Some lanes have a Yellow T and what looks like a credit card. Stay out -- your American credit card won't work.
Go ONLY into a lane that has a green light. There may be a yellow T or a credit card indicated, but you are okay as long there is also a green light(which means cash taken). On the big autoroutes, there are usually at least 2-4 green lanes and they are typically toward the right side of the toll lanes.
On the autoroutes, the green lanes take bills and coins. So, for a 2.40E toll, you can insert a 10E note and get change in the coin bin. (I didn't and wouldn't try a 50E bill for a small toll, so have some 10s and 20s in hand.)
Don't rush. It takes a few seconds to read the toll on the screen, find the bill and coin slots, and get your change out of the coin bin. At first, you think all of France is in line behind you, but folks seemed very patient.
May 27th, 2013, 03:44 AM
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Sberg,
Ooops. As I read my post, I made the assumption that you'd understand getting a ticket. Sorry, I needed even the most simple steps explained to me before I went. At certain points, and not always as you get on the autoroute, you go into a "get ticket" lane and a ticket spits out. When you get to the green lane to pay you insert your ticket (clearly marked) and the toll comes up on the screen.
Ooops. As I read my post, I made the assumption that you'd understand getting a ticket. Sorry, I needed even the most simple steps explained to me before I went. At certain points, and not always as you get on the autoroute, you go into a "get ticket" lane and a ticket spits out. When you get to the green lane to pay you insert your ticket (clearly marked) and the toll comes up on the screen.
May 27th, 2013, 10:34 AM
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We also enjoyed Da Archiado and Antibes. I enjoy the markets and always pick up a couple of dish towels. They last forever and are so colorful and remind me of France. Lots of great tips in your post. Hoping to return someday
May 28th, 2013, 09:48 AM
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Thank you! We're leaving in three weeks for France and I jotted down helpful information regarding St. Remy restaurant, Gordes parking, and Michelin's on-line trip planner.
I have one quesiton. The only time we will have our luggage in our rental car (without us) is when we stop in Aix for a couple hours on our way from St. Remy to Antibes. I have read so much about not leaving anything in cars, including the trunk, that I'm a bit worried. I thought of taking our suitcases to the train station, but I'm not sure there are luggage storage lockers there. What do you suggest?
P.S. 20 years ago I was traveling with a friend who had her suitcase taken from the trunk of the car while we stayed overnite in Carpentras - she handled it a lot better than I would have.
I have one quesiton. The only time we will have our luggage in our rental car (without us) is when we stop in Aix for a couple hours on our way from St. Remy to Antibes. I have read so much about not leaving anything in cars, including the trunk, that I'm a bit worried. I thought of taking our suitcases to the train station, but I'm not sure there are luggage storage lockers there. What do you suggest?
P.S. 20 years ago I was traveling with a friend who had her suitcase taken from the trunk of the car while we stayed overnite in Carpentras - she handled it a lot better than I would have.
May 28th, 2013, 01:27 PM
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Hi golfmom. I had the same concerns. I pack a small, flexible (plastic covered wire) bicycle (combination) lock. When I park my car with luggage in it, I run it through the handles and something in the trunk if I can. It probably won't stop someone with real determination, but I think it would deter a quick snatch and run. We had our car in the hotel garage in Aix, so I didn't check out the parking lots. A lot of them are underground, and many are attended. I hope it goes well, and I'm glad you found some of my report useful.
