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Thoughts on an unusual itinerary for Northern Spain please

Thoughts on an unusual itinerary for Northern Spain please

Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 04:22 AM
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Thoughts on an unusual itinerary for Northern Spain please

I’m planning a trip to Northern Spain next July. The “unusual” aspect comes from the fact that my husband has about two weeks for the trip whereas I have at least another two weeks if I want, so I’m planning on essentially doing the area twice – once with him in a rental car, and then again by myself with public transportation. My first go at planning this was just once (like a normal person) but it was full of one-nighters and pretty rushed. Then I was going to do what I’ve been doing for several years (given our different amounts of vacation time) and fly somewhere totally different for ‘part two’ of my trip. But then I realized my husband doesn’t really like cities and I do, so I eliminated most of the cities from the initial itinerary and I’d go back to them after he returns home. So this is what I’ve come up with.

Fly into Madrid from the US, and spend the first night in Segovia (I’ve been, I think he’d like it, and it cuts down on the driving for the first jet lagged day).
Then on to Leon (2 nights)
Lugo (1 night) via Ponferrada and possibly Las Merdas
Santiago (1 night)
Rinlo (2 nights) to see Cathedral Beach (or is this so crowded it’s not really worth it?) Cudillero?
Oviedo (1 night)
Santilla del Mar (3 nights) with day trips to Picos de Europa, Altimar Caves, Comillas, San Vicente de la Barquera
Laguardia (1 night) or nearby to see Santo Domingo and ? San Milian Yuso
Olite (2 nights) to see Puente la Reina, Ujue, Castillo de Javier and Parque Natural de las Bardenas Reales
Last night near airport before husband flies out.

Then I would train to Burgos (3 nights)
Train or Bus to San Sebastian (3 nights)
Bus to Biarritz and/or Bayonne France (3 nights)
Bus to Bilbao (3 nights)
Bus to Santander (3 nights)
Fly Santander to Dublin in order to fly home (otherwise I’d have to backtrack to Madrid and total travel time and cost would be more than flying out of Santander)

Crazy? Doable? What do you think?
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 06:34 AM
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thoughts:
No driving whilst jet lagged please, it is not worth it.
Las Merdas; do you mean Las Medulas?
As Catedrais, in July will be very busy. I have written about this before in another thread to your question but you did not respond to that information. Did you read it?
Santillana del Mar is not a place to base yourself on to see the Picos da Europa. it is such a vast area with small narrow roads you should consider staying at a north and south location to cover it all. If you wish to take some walks into the true nature and far away as possible from roads then you will need more than 3 nights.
The Cave of Altamira you can only visit the facsimile.
**Last night near airport before husband flies out**
Which one? We need that to establish if the rest of your ideas are an effective use of your time.

Some general pointers;
When travelling by car you are in general not allowing yourself time to see everything on your list without some rushing around. Then when it comes to using public transport you tend to spend a number of nights in one location. For me, it would be the other way around. My motto is travel less and see more.

Not only will the beach of As Catedrais be busy this trip is in July everywhere could be busy. Especially the later half.
You may need to look up how to spell some locations. This always helps you when it comes to planning.

Do not forget your IDP and reserve an automatic if you cannot drive stick.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 07:30 AM
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Would also suggest another base than pretty but very touristy and not that interesting Santillana del Mar.

I especially like part two of the trip, but perhaps slow down a little and skip the Biarritz/Byonne part. There is so much to see, do and expeience in the great and varied Spanish Basque Country: http://tourism.euskadi.eus/en/
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 07:34 AM
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Yes I meant Las Medulas - it that a 'worthwhile' stop in your opinion?

I saw your reply in that other thread, that's why I'm asking if it's always that crowded. I guess from that one site you linked and what you said that you wouldn't bother going there. Are all those photos of the beautiful deserted beach from years past? Or maybe from off season? Oh well, I would love to see it like that but not crowded. What about Cudillero - I found some photos of that which make it look like a very picturesque village, but I know photos can be deceiving.

For the Picos da Europa I was really only thinking of a day trip. I realize you can't see anywhere close to all of it in a day trip but I did find several one day driving tours that looked good. I am more interested in some of the coastal towns in that area but did want to give one day to seeing the mountains.

I realize the Cave of Altamira is the facsimile but I read that it was very well done.

We will be returning the rental car to the Madrid airport.

We always get an IDP and we drive sticks.

What would you eliminate from the first two weeks to make it less rushed?
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 07:51 AM
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I agree that Santillana del Mar does not make a good base, especially when doing a daytrip to Picos de Europa. Santillana is a picturesque village, however VERY touristy, therefore good for a quick visit to take some pictures but too noisy for a base.

Llanes is closer to Picos de Europa and has some of the most beautiful beaches of the northern coast. Check out this town.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 08:23 AM
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kimhe - what other base would you suggest?
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 08:37 AM
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Second traveller1959s suggestion of Llanes, an excellent small town: http://llanes.es/en

And perhaps see Lekeitio halfway between Bilbao and San Sebastián. The newly discovered Armintxe cave paintings are not open to the pulic, but it's a anyhow a fine little coastal town:
http://www.bbc.com/news/world-europe-37654544
https://www.rt.com/viral/362841-basq...cave-painting/
Lekeitio: http://www.euskoguide.com/places-bas...eitio-tourism/
http://spanishsabores.com/2014/08/25...charming-town/
https://www.lonelyplanet.com/spain/b...untry/lekeitio
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 08:56 AM
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I can imagine this trip being very enjoyable!

You might want a tad more time in Oviedo, but of course, that depends on what you want to see and do. I agree that Santillana del Mar is touristy, but I found it charming, particularly after day trippers had left. Laguardia is another place wher you might want an extra night. In contrast, 3 nights would seem a bit much for Burgos and 3 nights a bit much for Santander.

I trust you’ve seen my trip report?
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 11:22 AM
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I actually liked SdM. Especially going off-season and staying overnight. I also love architecture one of the time frames is 12th-century churches. This village suited me very well for that. Never wanted to visit copies.
So I feel my recommendations on locations are not going to suit you.
Yes, the beach does get over populated. Hence the restricted access. the article I linked to in the Galician newspaper stated that 250.000 persons visited the beach in summer. That is usually from mid-July to 1st September.
Figures have increased by 25% over last year.
Video uploaded in August 2016
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=X7YG5VW4NmA
from the ABC national newspaper. Wet part taken during Easter the dry part taken in summer. Both are overloaded with visitors. http://www.abc.es/espana/abci-consel...000_video.html
I could not say if you would enjoy it or not, I know I am glad to have visited the beach nearly 20 years ago.
With the suggestions on where to base yourself to visit the Picos you should look on the map where they are in relationship to the national park. Choose wisely something not too far away especially if you plan on taking in some activities. There are quite a number of "nice" villages around, some are more touristy than others.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 02:43 PM
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Do you think the Lekeitio cave paintings will ever be open to public view ? They are supposed to be more spectacular than Altamira which I saw in the 60s.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 03:39 PM
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In August 2013, I spent time in northwestern Spain and visited many of the locations on your itinerary.

I did a trip report in pictures, many of which have captions. Maybe they will help you decide where to go. The first pic within each city/town has the location written on the pic.

I have not yet been to northeastern Spain.... looks like that will be next year's trip!

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...n-pictures.cfm

Hope this helps! Enjoy your trip!
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 03:53 PM
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Thanks for all the replies. Lots to think about.

Llanes and Lekeitio look nice, I'm going to try and work them in. And will probably drop Rinlo - beautiful as it looks in the photos when it's deserted, it doesn't look enjoyable in the crowds, and I guess mid July would be crowded. From a little more research it looks like the photos of the deserted Cathedral Beach were taken in the off season.

kja - I had not seen your report. But now that I have, it's great. Tons of great info. And your planning threads were very helpful as well. Especially liked the debate about the one-nighters. I almost never do one-nighters when traveling by pubic transportation but in a car, in a rural area, it's a different story. I'm planning an Italy trip in March that so far looks like it's only going to include two locations over 15 days so I definitely like to stay put sometimes. But this area really looks like one and two nighters would work.

I'll be back with more questions once I re-work things a little.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 04:02 PM
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I'm glad you found some helpful info in my report, isabel, and yes, I got some wonderful information through my planning threads. Feel free to post questions to the trip report or planning threads if doing so makes sense, and of course I'll watch for questions here, too.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 07:25 PM
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These pictures might give you some ideas:

https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...190654780/show

although Taüll might be too far east for your itinerary.
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Old Oct 22nd, 2016, 11:21 PM
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**But this area really looks like one and two nighters would work.**
Are you saying that this area (the whole of Northern Spain) has less to interest you or there is so much you feel you have to keep moving?
I speak of far too many years in the hotel business and can assure you that 98% of the customers who have done one-nighters do regret it. The other 2 % just do not understand what they have missed.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 04:26 AM
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Michael - great photos, thanks for sharing them. Looking at photos really helps me decide where to go when planning any trip.

ribeirasacra - I totally believe that you could stay in just one or two places and spend a week or two and still have interesting things to see and do. And I frequently do trips like that, in fact this coming March I am going to spend 9 nights in one city in Italy (that I have already been to twice before). However, a trip where you sample numerous locations can also be very worthwhile. I think the trick to either type of travel is planning. And actually I am giving this one relatively small part of Spain an entire month. (This will be my 6th trip to Spain.) And I know I won't be able to see everything even in a month's time. So I'm now just trying to get a sense of which things are of the most interest to me and how long it takes to get from one place to the next (knowing on-line map sites are not terribly accurate all the time).
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 07:50 AM
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Just my two cents on Santillana del Mar: Do not stay there but do visit for othe incredible architecture. We stayed at a parador (I think there are two in the town if I remember correctly). The town is touristy in the way of a smaller place that seems just overwhelemd by the amount of tourists.

Would Cangas de Onis work for a base for haveing a glimpse of Picos de Europa?
We stayed in the parador there and took a great drive into the mountains from there.

That area of Spain is incredibly beautiful. I just skimmed the surface and would like to return. We did stay a night in Cudillero and it is charming and picturesque. I can't comment on all your details but I do think your trip sounds marvelous.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 09:00 AM
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It is not a small part of Spain you are trying to visit.
For example; This is a route I have done so many times.I drive from mid-Galicia to Bilbao with stops, but no main meal stop, it takes me around 6.5 to 7 hours. I know the roads and I know the driving laws and "etiquette". Most of the route is on Highways or good national roads. These I know where one can pass slower vehicles safely.
You may not have some of this knowledge and therefore the same trip for you will be slower.

Hopefully, this information will put things into perspective of what you are trying to achieve.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 09:02 AM
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Oh forgot, why are you driving back to Madrid for a flight?. Maybe look into dropping the car off either at a railway station or a local airport thus saving yourself time backtracking when using public transport. Husband can use plane or train to get to the airport at Madrid.
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Old Oct 23rd, 2016, 02:39 PM
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ekscrunchy - Cangas de Onis had not been on my radar but now that I've looked at it looks lovely. However, it's at least as much driving as staying in Santillana del Mar would entail. So the perennial question of do you stay in touristy towns since they may be more enjoyable in the evenings and early mornings or do you not stay in them cause they are 'too touristy'. Pros and cons to both approaches. And there is also a parador in Santillana - I'm pretty sure which ever we choose will be fine.

I'm glad to hear that Cudillero is picturesque.

ribeirasacra - good point about driving back to Madrid, but as far as I can tell from the rental car websites, there is no drop off in Olite which is the last town we will be staying in on 'part one' of the trip. Also, bus to the airport is almost 6 hours and driving looks like only 4 hours. So I think we could spend much of the day up by Olite and get to a hotel near the airport just in time to drop off the car and sleep. It does mean backtracking for me, but the second part of the trip is not as rushed and this way will be easier for my husband (since he does have to go home and go to work and I get an 'extra' two weeks). But thanks for the suggestion.
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