We are going for our annual trip to Paris next May and I would like to get out of central Marais area into something a little less touristy. I like upper Marais, but also thinking of area around Canal St Martin/Oberkampf or in the 11th around Rue de Charonne. Spent one morning walking in the 11th and then having lunch at Rino's and remember feeling like it was very low key and neighborly. Anyone stayed in an apartment in these areas or have any feedback? Thanks.
Thinking of staying in the 10th or 11th arrondissement next trip to Paris
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Well, this is not first hand information but my daughter (age 22) stayed in an apartment near Canal St Martin/Oberkampf this past May and this same apartment last year. She has been to Paris several times and stayed in the 8th, 6th (her fave) and the 14th. She actually really liked this neighborhood near Canal St Martin - it felt homey, some casual food nearby and quick walk to the Metro. It was also dirt cheap - something like 60 euro night for a well updated large studio.
Friends stayed near the métro Ledru-Rollin and liked it. It's close to the Place d'Aligre which has a daily market.
I stayed in a hostel in the 10th when I was in Paris a few years ago. It was The Hotel De La Comete on the Boulevard de la Villette. It was convenient to the metro and there was a lovely park nearby (Parc Des Buttes Chaumont), where we had picnics several times. We liked it because the hostel was clean and cheap, the area felt pretty safe, there was a Monoprix right around the corner and even though we weren't close enough to the city centre to walk, it was still easy to hop on the metro and get anywhere we pleased and THEN walk
I plan on staying there again next year! I definitely found the area much more low-key and neighborly than areas closer to the centre (lots of families picnicking at the park alongside us!) and it was nice coming back there after a long day!
I stayed in an apartment on Blvd.du Temple in the 11th for a month three years ago and loved the location.
We now always stay in the 11th at Hotel Cosmos, by Parmentier metro station and love it. The Oberkampf area is vibrant at night and there are lots of cafes and restaurants around and the whole area isnt overrun by tourists.
Thanks for all the responses. I am hoping to find something away from center of Marais, maybe haut Marais for next spring!
Last weekend we stayed at Hotel Bastille de Launay (42, rue Amelot) in the 11th. Only about a 5-10 minute walk to Place des Vosges. It had one of the best hotel staffs of any hotel I have stayed at throughout the years.

The 10th & 11th arrondissements are an excellent idea for a hotel (remembering of course that it is the 9th arrondissement that has the greatest number of hotels in Paris).
I will not believe that any economic crisis really exists as long as people are still clamoring to pay double or triple for a hotel at Saint Germain-des-Prés or the inner Marais, even if they claim it is for their poor little feet that can't stand to walk too far.
We only stay in apartments and there are more spots in inner Marais than 10th and 11th. Also attending a conference at convention center, so staying near line 1 is faster. We may just end up in haut Marais and get away from crowds in central Marais. We have used parisautrement.com many times and find their prices more reasonable than some of the other apartment agencies. Thanks again for responses. We will be checking out great restaurants in 10 and 11th- Le Galopin, Philou, Rino and Pierre Sang-Boyer.
My most recent trips were spent in apartments in the 10th, 11th and 12th. Like you, I wanted to move out of the more ‘touristic’ areas, simply to experience more of the city. I loved each of them for different reasons and was very happy to live in yet another quartier of Paris. As you know, the character of each arrondissement is unique and complex, with the various quartiers within.
My apartment in the 10th was on Quai de Valmy and overlooked the Canal Saint Martin. A calm oasis, and rich in a young, vibrant culture. The 11th was very alive, day and night, especially good for a ‘night person’, which I am. I was just a five minute walk from the fabulous Bastille (Richard Lenoir) market.
The 12th was my favorite as a base. Perhaps because I had, for me, a perfect apartment. I loved it and its’ beautiful courtyard....ten minutes to the Marche Aligre (went almost every day), great cafes and restaurants and, a short, lovely walk to the beautiful Seine and the islands. It was close to the metro and bus stops, thus very easy to visit ‘the rest of Paris’.
Having spent endless hours online searching endless apartment rental sites, there are clear distinctions. Many (most?) of the sites are geared to the North American audience and only deal with arrondissements 1-7, with brief reference to the rest of Paris. ( if any! )
You may have already decided to stay with the Marais, but if not here are two sites to check out.
1. AirBnb: They offer 126 possibilities in the Canal Saint Martin (10th) area alone, even more in the 11th. There are some great possibilities and excellent prices. One minor difficulty (at least for me) is that they break down their apartments by specific quartier, not arrondissement. This is easy to check on google.
https://www.airbnb.com/s/Paris--France#guests=2&neighborhoods%5B%5D=Canal+Saint-Martin
2. Homelidays: Again, some great apartments and good prices. They offer 100 options in the 11th and about the same in the 10th.
http://www.homelidays.co.uk/EN-Holidays-Rental/110_Search/CustomSearch.asp
But, if you chose to stay with the Marais, it is a fascinating area and each trip I spend many hours there.