Things I learned about Venice
Feb 20th, 2016, 09:10 AM
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Things I learned about Venice
Venice was our last stop of our three weeks in Italy and the one I had least-well researched. I thought it would be enough just to BE in Venice, and while that is basically true, my visit would have been enriched by better planning.
I knew nothing about acqua alta, which we encountered (we were there mid-October) and I've written about here (as well as photos of our lovely hotel room and great meals we had in Venice): https://polloplayer.wordpress.com/20...pth-in-venice/
We made an amateur's mistake right off the bat upon our arrival at the train station. We weren't traveling as light as some people and our suitcases were heavy. We should have taken a water taxi but in the flurry of arrival we boarded a vaporetto instead and, the wrong vaporetto line at that. We ended up with a very inconvenient and l-o-n-g walk to our hotel. Water taxis are expensive but would have definitely been the way to go.
People seem to either love or hate Venice. I wanted to love it but felt like I didn't make the best use of my time there, partly due to the acqua alta. Definitely want to return and give it another try!
I also wish I had hired a guide for visiting St. Marks and especially the Doge's Palace.
Oh, and as everyone already knows, prepare to be lost most of the time. GPS just bounces off all those narrow little walled streets - it's quite a challenge to get around!
I knew nothing about acqua alta, which we encountered (we were there mid-October) and I've written about here (as well as photos of our lovely hotel room and great meals we had in Venice): https://polloplayer.wordpress.com/20...pth-in-venice/
We made an amateur's mistake right off the bat upon our arrival at the train station. We weren't traveling as light as some people and our suitcases were heavy. We should have taken a water taxi but in the flurry of arrival we boarded a vaporetto instead and, the wrong vaporetto line at that. We ended up with a very inconvenient and l-o-n-g walk to our hotel. Water taxis are expensive but would have definitely been the way to go.
People seem to either love or hate Venice. I wanted to love it but felt like I didn't make the best use of my time there, partly due to the acqua alta. Definitely want to return and give it another try!
I also wish I had hired a guide for visiting St. Marks and especially the Doge's Palace.
Oh, and as everyone already knows, prepare to be lost most of the time. GPS just bounces off all those narrow little walled streets - it's quite a challenge to get around!
Feb 20th, 2016, 09:21 AM
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To get around Venice GPS is useless - you need a good paper map. You will still get lost - or find yourself on the wrong side of a canal without a bridge. But the whole city is so small it's easily fixed and we found quite a few interesting restaurants in our wandering (places for locals rather than tourists).
Although we did do some nice dinners in names places - but only with views - and loved them. Splurges that were worth the money. You just need to research carefully.
Although we did do some nice dinners in names places - but only with views - and loved them. Splurges that were worth the money. You just need to research carefully.
Feb 20th, 2016, 12:23 PM
#5
Thanks for dropping in to pass on the benefit of your experience to other traveler, katydidnt. The aqua alta is s relatively modern phenomenon in Venice - the first few times we went it was hardly mentioned so if you're relying on old guide books or general knowledge, it's not really surprising that you weren't aware of it. [though I'd have thought that a posh place like the Gritti might have brought it to your attention.
However it's such an important part of life in Venice now, they even have a website which will send updates to your mobile:
http://reverse.comune.venezia.it/int...noMaree_en.pdf
As for getting lost, you're right, it is one of the main parts of a trip to Venice - last time I was there with DH we were wandering around at about 1am trying to remember the way back to our apartment, while our [grown-up] kids were asleep and blissfully unaware that we'd not yet returned.
BTW, if you arrive at or want to return to the airport, there is a half-way house between the vaporetto and the water taxi - the alilaguna service which is a water bus that runs from the airport to Venice. There are about 6 different lines which deliver people to various stops all over the city; I'm pretty sure that there's one near the Gritti. Perhaps bear than in mind next time.
However it's such an important part of life in Venice now, they even have a website which will send updates to your mobile:
http://reverse.comune.venezia.it/int...noMaree_en.pdf
As for getting lost, you're right, it is one of the main parts of a trip to Venice - last time I was there with DH we were wandering around at about 1am trying to remember the way back to our apartment, while our [grown-up] kids were asleep and blissfully unaware that we'd not yet returned.
BTW, if you arrive at or want to return to the airport, there is a half-way house between the vaporetto and the water taxi - the alilaguna service which is a water bus that runs from the airport to Venice. There are about 6 different lines which deliver people to various stops all over the city; I'm pretty sure that there's one near the Gritti. Perhaps bear than in mind next time.
Feb 20th, 2016, 07:49 PM
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Katydidnt I really hope you are able to visit Venice at another time when the sun is shining and there's no need for boots. It really has its magical moments...the Gritti palace , how nice! We stayed at a boutique hotel next door in 2012 with that same amazing view, it was worth every penny!
Feb 21st, 2016, 01:46 AM
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<i><font color=#555555>"my GPS worked perfectly in Venice and we walked almost everywhere"</font></i>
LOL. And I've got a friend named Santa Claus who travels the world in a sleigh driven by flying reindeers.
<i><font color=#555555>"To get around Venice GPS is useless - you need a good paper map."</font></i>
GPS is not useless, but it's far from 100% reliable. It's very easy to lose a signal in Venice, depending on where you are located at any given moment. And you never know when and where that will happen, so you need to be prepared for it.
I'm a fan of great maps. I own a private collection, and the master copies are in excellent condition. Perhaps the value of the masters will grow long after I'm gone. I make custom enlarged copies for travel because I now rely on reading glasses. A good paper map of Venice is getting more and more difficult to find. Consider yourself very lucky if you can find a paper map that lists every street name, and lists it correctly. The two favorites among my collection have been out of print for quite a few years.
As Thin Gorjus will tell you, Streetwise Venice is not terrible, but if you rely on prescription eyeglasses, it can be a real pain to read. It simply is too small, and they cram a lot of stuff into it. They offer you a yellow line guide, which indicates the most popular street path to various destinations.
You can take the Streetwise map to a high quality color copier and have it enlarged, which I find quite helpful, but some copy stores in the U.S. will not make copies because of copyright law. If you own a flatbed scanner, you can scan it and then print it out in enlarged sections. Having resolution and image-size experience with Photoshop helps accomplish this.
<i><font color=#555555>"I thought it would be enough just to BE in Venice, and while that is basically true, my visit would have been enriched by better planning."</font></i>
IMO, to thoroughly enjoy Venice, one must do substantial research. Most tourists don't possess my patience, and very few tourists see the Venice I see.
<i><font color=#555555>"We should have taken a water taxi but in the flurry of arrival we boarded a vaporetto instead and, the wrong vaporetto line at that…Water taxis are expensive but would have definitely been the way to go."</font></i>
Water taxis are insanely expensive, and I truly feel it's a service for the wealthy. Average tourists sing its praises and claim the money is worth it because the pain of failure at figuring out public transportation can be significant. If you have the patience for research, you can save a ton of money by learning how to avoid the most common mistakes.
<i><font color=#555555>"People seem to either love or hate Venice. I wanted to love it but felt like I didn't make the best use of my time there, partly due to the acqua alta."</font></i>
Venice isn't for everyone. I know quite a few Italians who hate the place. Visiting during Acqua Alta requires a very specific kind of research. I would never recommend a visit during high-tide months without knowing what to bring and what to purchase locally.
<i><font color=#555555>"I also wish I had hired a guide for visiting St. Marks and especially the Doge's Palace."</font></i>
Venice offers some fantastic art historian guides. It's such a rich, layered city, a good guide can really help you focus and bring the place to life. The best guides are not inexpensive.
<i><font color=#555555>"prepare to be lost most of the time."</font></i>
It's fair advice. Navigation skill matters, though. Some are better than others. Knowing how to identify the facade of a church on a map can really help you navigate your way through the various <i>campi</i>.
LOL. And I've got a friend named Santa Claus who travels the world in a sleigh driven by flying reindeers.
<i><font color=#555555>"To get around Venice GPS is useless - you need a good paper map."</font></i>
GPS is not useless, but it's far from 100% reliable. It's very easy to lose a signal in Venice, depending on where you are located at any given moment. And you never know when and where that will happen, so you need to be prepared for it.
I'm a fan of great maps. I own a private collection, and the master copies are in excellent condition. Perhaps the value of the masters will grow long after I'm gone. I make custom enlarged copies for travel because I now rely on reading glasses. A good paper map of Venice is getting more and more difficult to find. Consider yourself very lucky if you can find a paper map that lists every street name, and lists it correctly. The two favorites among my collection have been out of print for quite a few years.
As Thin Gorjus will tell you, Streetwise Venice is not terrible, but if you rely on prescription eyeglasses, it can be a real pain to read. It simply is too small, and they cram a lot of stuff into it. They offer you a yellow line guide, which indicates the most popular street path to various destinations.
You can take the Streetwise map to a high quality color copier and have it enlarged, which I find quite helpful, but some copy stores in the U.S. will not make copies because of copyright law. If you own a flatbed scanner, you can scan it and then print it out in enlarged sections. Having resolution and image-size experience with Photoshop helps accomplish this.
<i><font color=#555555>"I thought it would be enough just to BE in Venice, and while that is basically true, my visit would have been enriched by better planning."</font></i>
IMO, to thoroughly enjoy Venice, one must do substantial research. Most tourists don't possess my patience, and very few tourists see the Venice I see.
<i><font color=#555555>"We should have taken a water taxi but in the flurry of arrival we boarded a vaporetto instead and, the wrong vaporetto line at that…Water taxis are expensive but would have definitely been the way to go."</font></i>
Water taxis are insanely expensive, and I truly feel it's a service for the wealthy. Average tourists sing its praises and claim the money is worth it because the pain of failure at figuring out public transportation can be significant. If you have the patience for research, you can save a ton of money by learning how to avoid the most common mistakes.
<i><font color=#555555>"People seem to either love or hate Venice. I wanted to love it but felt like I didn't make the best use of my time there, partly due to the acqua alta."</font></i>
Venice isn't for everyone. I know quite a few Italians who hate the place. Visiting during Acqua Alta requires a very specific kind of research. I would never recommend a visit during high-tide months without knowing what to bring and what to purchase locally.
<i><font color=#555555>"I also wish I had hired a guide for visiting St. Marks and especially the Doge's Palace."</font></i>
Venice offers some fantastic art historian guides. It's such a rich, layered city, a good guide can really help you focus and bring the place to life. The best guides are not inexpensive.
<i><font color=#555555>"prepare to be lost most of the time."</font></i>
It's fair advice. Navigation skill matters, though. Some are better than others. Knowing how to identify the facade of a church on a map can really help you navigate your way through the various <i>campi</i>.
Feb 28th, 2016, 07:49 PM
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Once you get used to them, the maps in the Moleskine Venice Notebook are OK, and the street finder index is quite comprehensive. The vaporetto route map is out of date, though.
Another map worth grabbing is the map you get if you buy the church Chorus Pass. It lists many sites as well as churches, but names only the more significant Calle and campi.
If you are asking for directions, it is much easier if you have a paper map.
Another map worth grabbing is the map you get if you buy the church Chorus Pass. It lists many sites as well as churches, but names only the more significant Calle and campi.
If you are asking for directions, it is much easier if you have a paper map.
Feb 28th, 2016, 10:29 PM
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Excellent book with Venice the main character, during Acqua Alta :
http://www.readinggroupguides.com/re...brunetti-novel
I'm sooo glad that for some GPS works and for some maps work. It seems we managed on Fodors to make another split of humanity : the ones who like maps, and the ones who like GPS.
http://www.readinggroupguides.com/re...brunetti-novel
I'm sooo glad that for some GPS works and for some maps work. It seems we managed on Fodors to make another split of humanity : the ones who like maps, and the ones who like GPS.
Feb 29th, 2016, 12:48 AM
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Well I have only been to Venice twice.. and first time was a LONG time ago.. but our last visit was about 5 years ago.
We used neither GPS or paper maps.
We just figured out all the landmarks from our hotel to San Marcos Sq. There are always signs that point to St Marcos square..so if you always orientate from there.. and have decent memory .. you can find your way.
We just noted certain things on the route from square to hotel.. a shop that had a certain display.. a small bridge, the café with red umbrellas..etc.
Worked for us.
Katy glad you enjoyed Venice.. but I would have been bummed myself about the high water.. oh well..next time.
We used neither GPS or paper maps.
We just figured out all the landmarks from our hotel to San Marcos Sq. There are always signs that point to St Marcos square..so if you always orientate from there.. and have decent memory .. you can find your way.
We just noted certain things on the route from square to hotel.. a shop that had a certain display.. a small bridge, the café with red umbrellas..etc.
Worked for us.
Katy glad you enjoyed Venice.. but I would have been bummed myself about the high water.. oh well..next time.
Feb 29th, 2016, 01:01 AM
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When I am in Venice, I use the paper maps which are given to you by your hotel concierge for free (I still have two or three of these maps in my drawer). Also, every guidebook has maps of Venice inside. It never occured to me that walking through Venice while staring on my iPhone's display would be a sensible option.
Anyway, meandering through the streets of Venice is part of the fun and getting lost will help you exploring the town. You cannot really get lost because after a few hundreds of meters you will find yourself at the next greater body of water with vaporetto stops.
I am a bit sorry about the experience of schlepping baggage through Venice. I see a lot of tourists negotiating their bags over streets and bridges. Therefore, every time a poster asks about accomodation in Venice, I recommend to look carefully at the microlocation and the next vaporetto stop. Or the watertaxi.
Anyway, meandering through the streets of Venice is part of the fun and getting lost will help you exploring the town. You cannot really get lost because after a few hundreds of meters you will find yourself at the next greater body of water with vaporetto stops.
I am a bit sorry about the experience of schlepping baggage through Venice. I see a lot of tourists negotiating their bags over streets and bridges. Therefore, every time a poster asks about accomodation in Venice, I recommend to look carefully at the microlocation and the next vaporetto stop. Or the watertaxi.
Feb 29th, 2016, 02:34 AM
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Venice is one city where we do not mind getting lost. In fact, wandering the back streets is rather nice to avoid the hordes of tourists, especially at night.
Our first trip to Venice was in 1980 and we were unimpressed. It was hot, smelly, dirty, and few people picked up after their dogs. Since then we've been back four more times and we've changed our opinion. We've also been to Burano twice and in 2008 it was a sleepy little island that was peaceful to explore. We went back in 2012 and we found the tourist schlock that is Venice.
As for hotels, we liked the Hotel Abazzia located on a quiet calle (alley) in Canereggio a few blocks from the Santa Lucia train station. It's a former Carmelite Monastery a five minute walk from the station. The property is very nice and the staff is first-rate.
Buon viaggio,
Our first trip to Venice was in 1980 and we were unimpressed. It was hot, smelly, dirty, and few people picked up after their dogs. Since then we've been back four more times and we've changed our opinion. We've also been to Burano twice and in 2008 it was a sleepy little island that was peaceful to explore. We went back in 2012 and we found the tourist schlock that is Venice.
As for hotels, we liked the Hotel Abazzia located on a quiet calle (alley) in Canereggio a few blocks from the Santa Lucia train station. It's a former Carmelite Monastery a five minute walk from the station. The property is very nice and the staff is first-rate.
Buon viaggio,
Feb 29th, 2016, 04:16 AM
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My 3 times in Venice were spent wandering in a dreamlike state. There was nothing smelly, no high water,and no dog droppings. I vaguely remember dealing with my luggage on the vaporettos.no problem. I pack light in 21in carry on.
I absolutely loved my Venezia! The Serene One was so enchanting and ethereal.I walked aimlessly in all directions , finding amazing architecture,lazy little canals, and such friendly people. I stopped for ombre e cicchetti often! Even splurged at Harry's bar having the best Bellini I have ever had.
Ahhh..Venice..At the mention of her name, I have been known to tear up!
I absolutely loved my Venezia! The Serene One was so enchanting and ethereal.I walked aimlessly in all directions , finding amazing architecture,lazy little canals, and such friendly people. I stopped for ombre e cicchetti often! Even splurged at Harry's bar having the best Bellini I have ever had.
Ahhh..Venice..At the mention of her name, I have been known to tear up!
Feb 29th, 2016, 08:23 AM
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A slightly off topic question but how difficult is it to get a private water taxi from near the train station and what do they cost in general? Specifically, we would take the water taxi to our apartment right near La Fenice. It appears that there is a spot right by La Fenice where we could disembark.
I am traveling with my husband and two little kids and after reading lots of posts on the subject, we are planning to get a private water taxi from the airport to get to our apartment. I know it is pricey but with two jet lagged kids and us trying to navigate bags and kids, it is worth it to us.
However, if that plan fails for some reason and the bus is right at the airport when we arrive and the water taxi is more trouble, we could take the bus then get a water taxi. I realize we could take the 1 vaporetto and then walk the rest of the way but I suspect after flying all night the rest of my travel companions will not be up for that.
thanks
I am traveling with my husband and two little kids and after reading lots of posts on the subject, we are planning to get a private water taxi from the airport to get to our apartment. I know it is pricey but with two jet lagged kids and us trying to navigate bags and kids, it is worth it to us.
However, if that plan fails for some reason and the bus is right at the airport when we arrive and the water taxi is more trouble, we could take the bus then get a water taxi. I realize we could take the 1 vaporetto and then walk the rest of the way but I suspect after flying all night the rest of my travel companions will not be up for that.
thanks
Feb 29th, 2016, 09:03 AM
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<i><font color=#555555>"However, if that plan fails for some reason and the bus is right at the airport when we arrive and the water taxi is more trouble"</font></i>
That's a lot of "ifs," and none of them really work together.
It's best to plan for a private water taxi in advance because it's convenient and cost effective. VeniceLink.com is currently offering a sale at 59€. I have never seen the price so low. http://www.venicelink.com/en
Once you have a water taxi reserved, there's no need to consider any other form of transport.
Land bus transport to Piazzale Roma will always be available soon after you exit the terminal. The walk to the water dock for water taxis is about four minutes. Deciding between the two at the last minute is not convenient, and nor is switching from bus to boat at Piazzale Roma.
If jet lag is a concern, and you want to be whisked quickly to your hotel, there is no easier method than walking to the airport water taxi dock, and booking your taxi in advance.
That's a lot of "ifs," and none of them really work together.
It's best to plan for a private water taxi in advance because it's convenient and cost effective. VeniceLink.com is currently offering a sale at 59€. I have never seen the price so low. http://www.venicelink.com/en
Once you have a water taxi reserved, there's no need to consider any other form of transport.
Land bus transport to Piazzale Roma will always be available soon after you exit the terminal. The walk to the water dock for water taxis is about four minutes. Deciding between the two at the last minute is not convenient, and nor is switching from bus to boat at Piazzale Roma.
If jet lag is a concern, and you want to be whisked quickly to your hotel, there is no easier method than walking to the airport water taxi dock, and booking your taxi in advance.
Feb 29th, 2016, 09:07 AM
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Thank you. Another concern is that my daughter gets motion sickness so if we have a rough landing on the plane and she is queasy, she will not be keen to get back on a boat. That said, I suppose if we have a private water taxi, it can wait a few minutes for us while she regains her land legs. Thanks for the link to the sale as that may be a good option.
Feb 29th, 2016, 09:31 AM
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Unless you want to walk to La Fenice from Piazzale Roma, which is doable, there is no way to avoid a boat ride.
I can't count the number of times I've landed at VCE, on a variety of airline carriers and during a storm. I don't recall a "rough landing" ever.
I can't count the number of times I've landed at VCE, on a variety of airline carriers and during a storm. I don't recall a "rough landing" ever.
Feb 29th, 2016, 10:26 AM
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The walk to the dock is more than 4 minutes. It is more like 10-20 minutes because of all the construction and will depend on your speed. I don't think that it is necessary to book in advance. There is a desk for booking just outside the baggage area. The time to buy and the walk should give your daughter plenty of time to regain her land legs. Fresh air is also refreshing.
We were at Marco Polo five weeks ago. Also, when all the construction including the people mover is done, getting to/from the dock will be so much easier.
We were at Marco Polo five weeks ago. Also, when all the construction including the people mover is done, getting to/from the dock will be so much easier.
Feb 29th, 2016, 10:34 AM
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I got excited for a second when NYCFoodSnob mentioned a water taxi sale, but I then noticed that on the VeniceLink.com site that when you select Marco Polo airport as the starting point, it adds 40€ to the price for a total of 99€
Mar 1st, 2016, 06:10 AM
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We usually take this company: http://www.motoscafivenezia.it/eng/
There are several water taxi booths in the terminal, after leaving the baggage claim area. You might book your water taxi directly there.
I understand that they have pretty much the same prices, maybe +/- 5 Euros. Only if the hotel concierge books the water taxi for you, he might add a hefty commission for himself.
A water taxi ride can be pretty rough, even a bit scary, wenn they cross other boats' wake. I would recommend Dramamine in case of motion sickness.
There are several water taxi booths in the terminal, after leaving the baggage claim area. You might book your water taxi directly there.
I understand that they have pretty much the same prices, maybe +/- 5 Euros. Only if the hotel concierge books the water taxi for you, he might add a hefty commission for himself.
A water taxi ride can be pretty rough, even a bit scary, wenn they cross other boats' wake. I would recommend Dramamine in case of motion sickness.
