Thess & Halkidiki for Easter - Part 1

Hi all!

Thanks to you everybody for help in our trip planning over the years. The following is a lengthy recap of our latest trip. Hoping our experiences will help others when they do something similar.

Our last trip to Greece was three years ago, and the memory that stays with me is the scent of orange blossoms in Athens. The most vivid image in my mind from this visit in April, 2009 is the Leftcatho tree in Halkidiki. While I have no idea how to spell the species, I will tell you that the white birch like trunk, yields to pretty green clumps of delicate petals that produce variegated shadows in the moonlight, and best of all, this glorious natural gift sheds white fairy dust day and night that drifts like a soft, magical snow in the middle of April. I’m not sure whether it scatters love potions, slows the heart rate, or is the true fountain of youth – but certainly you’ll find magic when walking a path of leftcatho trees.

Upon arrival to the small airport of Thessaloniki, I took a quick cab ride to the center of town for 15 EU. The meter read approximately 10 EU, but there is a 3EU charge for airport service, and a 1 EU charge for Holy Week. Beware the drivers of Thessaloniki! Road signs appear to be just a suggestion, and if you are a pedestrian, expect traffic to come from anywhere – even on sidewalks. Tipping of cab drivers is discouraged by the local residents. I met my children at the Elektra Palace, and waited for my husband to arrive. I would argue that the Electra Palace has the best location in town, and is central to most city destinations. It is considered a luxury hotel, but is also included as a choice on many credit card point programs. We had two lovely front rooms overlooking the plaza and the sea, and the price included a full breakfast. Champagne was available with orange juice, but just as at a later resort, it is not opened unless requested. As we experienced three years ago at the Athens Electra, the shower glass only covers about half the tub, and I have to admit I have still not mastered the art of not flooding the floor. The staff was polite, but not overly helpful or friendly. We tipped housekeeping 5 EU a day for both rooms. We ate both our arrival lunch and a traditional Easter dinner at the rooftop garden restaurant which afforded a lovely view and good food, albeit limited choices. The hotel provided each room with an Easter “basket” of mass candles, Easter bread, sweets, and red eggs.

We had researched and heard first hand about an Easter barbeque on the plaza by the White Tower and statue of Alexander the Great, but it did not happen. We did hear from family members that the Mayor of the city always makes the decision on festivities, so perhaps he decided against it this year for some reason. If anyone out there has the answer to this mystery, your input would be greatly appreciated.

This was our second Easter in Greece, and as my husband’s family emigrated from Greece, and my children have been raised Orthodox, it is a wonderful experience. We knew nothing could top our heavenly Easter at the Elounda Bay Resort on Crete, but this year was also very nice. I loved the St. Theodoras church and took several beautiful photos there during the Orthos on Friday. The roof-lines reminded me of an Escher drawing. Then we proceeded to our daughter’s favorite church (she is an exchange student at the American College of Thessaloniki at Anatoli College), St. Sophias. It reminded us very much of the church in Agios Nikolaus on Crete with its beautiful and vibrant icons and detailed paintings.. The church was surrounded by riot police, as evidently there were several dignitaries inside. All was quiet, and the service was beautiful, and officiated by several high-ranking priests in full regalia. When the Epitaphio was brought outside, the priests were met by a small marching band which led the way around town.

We attended midnight mass at the largest Orthodox Church in Greece, the marble cathedral St. Dimitrios. By 11m it was standing room only, and the midnight stampede to follow the priest outside was madness. My daughter was next to someone whose hair caught on fire, and I, too, felt uncomfortable warmth at the nape of my neck. We were much relieved to get outside, but did not feel comfortable until we were able to break away from the mob. Little boys were dancing on the ledge above the platform where the priests continued the service and song, Roman candles pierced the darkness and showered the crowd with spiraling embers.

There are several tourists’ sites in Thessaloniki, but the favorite pastime is sitting for coffee along the water boulevard. Americans will want to ask for a “filtered” coffee, unless they prefer the strong Greek espresso or instant Nescafe. Bottled water is always served – and charged – although on more than one occasion it was not a freshly opened bottle. I suspect some recycling in the bottle department. Little sweets or cookies are almost always served, and the Greeks don’t seem to touch them. I felt sure those were recycled, too!

The White Tower has an interesting multi-media history of the city. The writing/labels are all in Greek, so English speakers will need a headset to comprehend fully. My son and husband thoroughly enjoyed the Byzantine Museum when we returned for our last day before departure, but my daughter and I decided to shop… er, browse. (Ever notice how all the good stuff is the most expensive?) The city arch and rotunda are not to be missed in spring, as there are lovely gardens and wildflowers in nooks and crannies throughout. There is a plaka-like area of tavernas away from the water where you will be encouraged to enter each establishment by a promoter outside. My daughter actually witnessed one owner start hitting another with a broom when the other proprietor kept hassling a group of students after they had made their choice. They are all quite reasonable and fairly similar, although she has her favorite. The bakeries were all beautifully decorated for Easter, although bunnies were rare, and yellow chicks on red backgrounds were all the rage!

To be continued...