There and back again: A first time trip report of London and Spain

You're off to a good start! I'm looking forward to the rest of your report.

Lee Ann

Day 2:

Went to withdraw from the ATM only to find out all my efforts with the bank were for naught. I am unable to withdraw from my account. DW's card also not working, my credit card not working at the hotel. Thank god my wife got an extra card from the bank and it WORKS! We are able to use one ATM out of three and one CC out of three that we brought. Everything that I did with the bank prior to leaving didn't work and everything DW did with the bank was successful. What does that tell me? Dunno.

So off to the tube station with a pocket full of pounds to pick up oyster cards and 7 day travel cards loaded into them. Waited in line for an agent and described what we were planning and he agreed the 7 day travel cards were best. Then he gave us the wonderful news that DS did not need an oyster but rather we could get one day travel tickets for 1GBP if we presented our oyster with the seven day travel card loaded. All told we got two oyster with travel card for 23.50 each plus single day ticket for DS at 1.00. We just picked up DS's ticket each day from the same agent accross the street for the rest of our time in London.

So we hop on the bus, the number 42 I think, which heads up Brompton road towards Picadilly circus. Getting a good view from the upper deck of all the shopping that was going on. My god there is a lot of shopping going on!

Hop off the bus at Picadilly Circus, just like I envisioned it, the Times Square of London or the Picadilly Circus of NY. Stop in at Lilliewhites a really big sporting goods store. Only have XL sizes of soccer, er, football jerseys. Am told by one that would know this was the size of all the footie fans in these parts.

Continued our walk in directions we have no idea, amid stepping to the side trying to read the map from the hotel. Very good tourist map at that, we got from the concierge at the hotel. We end up at the bottom of St. James's Park. Down the street comes a horse guard and what do you know it is the changing of the guard. We strolled up through the park to Buckingham Palace, which was packed with viewers and all the pomp and circumstance these Americans could stand. No really it was quite impressive and the security measures were amazing. We were pretty much slacked jawed at this point so we pushed on for more.

We jogged over to Whitehall and turn the corner to be staring at Big Ben, I mean the tower that holds Big Ben and Parlement, not the band but the building. There were parades of protesters of something or another and encampments of protesters in what was much like peoples park in Berkeley. I loved that part.

We stopped at an Italian deli on Whitehall for really good sandwiches and "crisps", 18.00 GBP, we tip small change. Still don't have a hold of the tipping thing but I suspect we were generous. Sorry Londoners, we don't mean to spoil the wait staff.

Pushing on further we head up Whitehall to Trafalger Square. It was a mess with Tour de France get up and we didn't really get a feel for the place. Stopped in at a souvenir shop and made the obligatory purchases of all things London.

Head back down Whitehall and head over to the Churchill Museum and the Cabinet War rooms. Even my wife was impressed with this. I could still smell the cigerette smoke or so I thought, when viewing these rooms. Just a little less sparten then a submarine I imagine.

By this time our feet are killing us and we make a beeline for the tube. The Tube is FANTASTIC. We never had any delays. We traveled mainly on the district line which is near the surface and most times found a seat.

We made it back to the hotel, cleaned up a bit and went to dinner at a sushi joint with the boats that put all the good stuff right in front of you. We spent about 50 GBP but were quite full afterwords. Went to bed only to wake at 2:00AM with more jetlag effects, so we watched some really strange telly.

thereyet

Sounds wonderful so far..anxiously waiting for the part about Spain!

Thanks for sharing,

Angela

Hang in there with me Angy, I feel this is going to take awhile. The memories keep flooding back. I am glad I decided to take the time and write this report.

thereyet

Day 3:

To the Tower. Tube to Tower station ouut of the station and staring at the ancient remaining section of Roman wall of Londinium. Have to stop and stare for awhile as this was the beginnings of London so very long ago. Hard for an American to comprehend that this is even older then Chichen itza. Probably the oldest structure I have ever seen.

No stopping there. I used the 2for1 coupons for the Tower and in we go. The Beefeaters were quite amusing but we beat feet it straight for the jewel room. WOW. Again a never befor sight. Diamonds that could choke a horse. And beautiful gold and silver work abound.Truelly a collection to be proud of. Pick jaw up off of floor and move on. The rest of the tower tour was filled of stories my mother had told me and I found I knew more then I thought as I led my family around.

Enough of the majesty of the tower. We walk over the Tower Bridge, the first of about four bridges we walked this day. We walked along the south bank in search of the Burough market and something to eat. After asking a few people for directions and walking through a traffic tunnel which my family did not appreciate, we finally come upon the market. I had been looking forward to this as I like to eat. Not able to make up my mind I decide to have a bacon buttie and have my first experience with brown sauce, which I am told is the customery way it is served. The bacon is much better here then at home. DF and DS find some sort of steak sandwich as they are a little less adventurous.

Stumble upon Neal's Yard Dairy for some great cheese tasting but refrain from buying as we had a long way on foot to go. Amazed by the stinkyness of the place and tried one cheese titled Stinky Monk. Quite good and I am becoming a stinkier the better sort.

We walk to the London bridge pier and take a water taxi to Westminster bridge which was a good break for our already tired feet. Walk over the bridge to the London Eye and take a trip, fifteen minute wait and off we go on a spectacular ride with the best view of the week from a hieght. We walk back over the bridge and tube back to the hotel, get cleaned up, go out to eat at a pizza place near the hotel before we head back to the Globe theatre.

Take the tube back to blackfrier station. We walk over the bridge with the sight of the power plant that is now the Tate Modern, which we didn't get to squeeze into this trip, pitty. Again the concierge came through with great front row center seats for Loves Labours Lost which was quite bawdy and I am glad my son was not any younger and could laugh with us about the funny story. At the intermission I was able to "beach comb" along the Thames as it was fairly low tide. After the show we walked back over the Millenium Bridge, our forth of the day. Feet throb, drag ourselves back to the hotel and die.

thereyet

Oh, the view of St paul's Cathedral at night walking over the bridge was unforgettable.

thereyet

Great report so far. Thanks for posting.

Day 4:

With jet lag finally wearing off but still being an early riser, I decide to take a walk without the family so they can sleep in a bit. I wander around Chelsea and find Kings road and a small cafe called Picasso which serves a good looking English breakfast for about 6.00. I went back to the hotel to collect the family and took them back to Picasso's. Eggs, real bacon, blood sausage, toast, juice and coffee. Very good food and value. The coffee is much better then back home every where I have been so far.

This morning we went to the science museum at DS's request and then to the V and A which are both about 2 blocks from the hotel. Love the free entry but feel compelled to leave a donation as they are both wonderful museums. The Italian glass chandelier in the atrium of the V and A is stunning. I think I have new wallpaper for my computer!

Back to the hotel to pick up tickets for the much anticipated cricket match at Lord's and to have a mini GTG with none other then Fodorite Audere est Facere. We tubed to Baker street to find the Globe pub which was staring us in the face as we emerge from the underground. Now I start to realize how deep the underground can be! After a short wait over a beer for DW and soft drinks for DS and myself, Audere comes ambling up. My wife says he could be my brother. We chat for awhile and exchange some small gifts. I brought him an official Major League Baseball and he had brought a book on the history of SOCCER in the US, some marmite (which I have yet to try and am told to use sparingly)and a tin of spotted dick which gets the expected laugh. Time to head back to the tube for St. Johns Wood.

We walk from the tube station to do the Abby Road Beatles thing and wonder how cool it would be to work at the Apple recording studio. Walk the zebra striped crosswalk for the obligatory picture. Continue on to Lord's which is situated right in the middle of a residential neighborhood that Audere explains grew up right around it. In we went for a tour round the place, it is big and old. Lots of egg and baccy ties and white clothes shuffling around. Some high faluten drinking going on in the clubs on the ground. We make it to the Edrich Stand by the nursery where the players are warming up. We tour the provisions court where you can find some really good looking "ballpark" food and drink. There is even a champaign stand! We grab some chips and drinks and head for our seats.

The stands are still pretty empty but we get a good look at the field and stands. We have one seat in the row in front of the other three but sit in one row as the seats are all empty. Not long after a couple of suits roll up and inform my son that he is in their seat. I reposition DS in his proper seat in front of us but the gentlemen insist that we will have to move as this is a season ticket holders section. I recheck my tickets and inform him that in fact these were our seats to his amazement and explained that the concierge of our hotel had accquired these for us. He was very immpressed with our concierages ability to procure such good seats which put a big smile on my face. They turned out being alot of fun to sit with and were chatty the entire game. Everyone were happy to see some Yanks at the game and were quite eager to show how much better the game of cricket was then baseball. Audere was invaluable in explaining this game to the novice that I was. I learned the true meaning of "bowling a maiden over", being stumped (I lost the wager that I made but had great excitment in the process), and much of the colorful language that discribes the game. At the intermission we had some cornish pasties with mash and gravy which was very tasty. The home team lost with 2 bowls remaining after Bopal (sp?) hit a six for Middlesex. After the game we marched with the masses back to the tube and said our goodbyes to Audere and thanking him for the great time we had. Back to the hotel and slept like babies.

thereyet

LoL "Ended up watching the map most of the way"

That's excitement for you!

I love Borough Market. Neal's Yard has a stand where they make the most delicious toasted cheese sandwiches! Oooh, the sourdough bread! How I wish I could have one now!!

I'm enjoying reading your report, thereyet -- brings back very nice memories.

Great report thereyet! Been looking forward to it

(one VERY minor kvetch - that amazing chandelier at the V&A isn't Italian. It is by Dale Chihuly who was born, bred and is still based in Washing State)

oops - not Washing - make that Washington State

Day 5:

Saturday morning and really looking forward to the Portabello Market. I can't get enough of looking at antiques and am told by Fordorites this is the place to go on a Saturday morning. Also told to get there early as the crowds are thick. Good advice. I thought I might have to go alone but my wife gladly agreed and we left DS to sleep in.

We didn't get there until 9:00 and I was worried we were not on the ball. Everything was ok though and the crowd was very manageable. An unbelievable number of stalls both inside and outside at the top end of the road. Specialists in every item and era imaginable. We saw more spoons, jewelry, objects d'art, china, etc... I collect turtles figures and saw some really great examples including a 19th century signed bronze from Japan that sadly they were asking 455.00 GBP. WAAAAY over budget. They were willing to hagel but still couldn't justify the expense for an item that fit in the palm of my hand. I will dream about the one that got away though.

I did find a small plastic cartoon like figurine playing poker holding a straight flush of hearts for 1.00 GBP. My wife found a silver heart pendent for the small amount of 7.00 GBP. After coffee and a croissant we headed back to the tube and hotel. The mob of people comming to the market filled the street as we felt like salmon swimming up stream and we were glad that we had our fill.

Back at the hotel, we pick up DS and head out for the British Museum, another much anticipated stop along the tourist route. We tube to Russell Square and walk to the Museum. Very impressive domed court. More impressive collection of ancient civilization. Really loved the Egyptian collection but was blown away by the Assyrian Lion hunt reliefs. So well preserved and you could really get a feel for what life was like back then. Couldn't help but get the feeling there was some boasting going on in the reliefs though. Certainly the lions would have won a battle or two.
I was less impressed with the Elgin Marbles though, as they weren't so well well preserved. Time has a way with things left to the elements. The family is tired of the museum and hungry so we head off for North Sea Fish and Chips. We all got the cod and sure enough it comes in a cone of butcher paper. Some mushy peas, lemon and tarter and down to the park we go. Really good F and C for about 25.00 GBP for three with sodas.

We then walk to covent gardens and some shopping. DW found a great skin care store and DS found Soccer Scene for all his Premiership needs. Great year end sale, so DS scored with jerseys and posters of his favorite stars. Feet are really killing us now and getting a bit cranky after finding out the Covent Garden station is closed due to Tour de France shinnanigans. So continue walking to Leicester Square station. At the hotel we take a much needed NAP.

For dinner we stay in the neighborhood and go to the Gourmet Burger Kitchen which is quite good. Sleep real well for tomorrow is our last day in London and look forward to Harrods food halls, shopping, and some last minute photo ops in the City Center.

thereyet

<<(one VERY minor kvetch - that amazing chandelier at the V&A isn't Italian. It is by Dale Chihuly who was born, bred and is still based in Washing State)>>

Oooops, well it looked Italian. I should have known the artist because I watched a PBS show on him way back when and I recognized his work immediatly. Just couldn't remember anything else about him.

Glad you all are enjoying the report. My wife is thinking I am crazy for doing it. Just trying to pay back all the kindness everyone here has shown me.

thereyet

I'm enjoying your report, thanks for posting. Sounds like you got around quite a bit.

And I can well imagine that cricket is made much more interesting by the color commentary of Audere. I actually imagine that watching grass grow would be entertaining if he described it in whatever language that is that he speaks.

thereyet: By any chance, was that great skin care shop in Covent Garden called LUSH? If so, there are two branches in SF, one on Powelll just south of Union Sq. (don't you live in the Bay area? )

Sorry Janisj, it was SPACE.NK.apothecary. The link is www.spacenk.com

thereyet

So far, my favorite part is DS standing in front of the Kazakhstan Embassy. Way to go little ty!!

Seriously, I totally identify with so much here, ty. Not so much London, where I haven't been in over 10 years, but with the bone-tiredness, the magic, the serendipity, just...I don't know...the feeling of finally being in a place that you've long imagined!

>>After a short wait over a beer for DW and soft drinks for DS and myself, Audere comes ambling up. My wife says he could be my brother.<<

You mean there are two of you walking around? Now that's scary!

Lee Ann

I know what you mean, Lucie. It's like every corner you turn another sight you always imagined!

thereyet

Lee Ann, his lexicon of colorful language blows mine away, so I can't say we are truelly two of a kind. You are safe.

thereyet

Im enjoying reading this! Great that you had such an wonderful time 'over here'

Great trip report! Really enjoying your very colorful descriptive language!

easytraveler

Day 6:

Last day in London, feeling really tired and don't want to get going too quickly.

Finally snap out of it and jump on the bus alone because my family has no desire to go to Speakers Corner and all the political stuff I love. When I get there at about 9:30 the place is dead... is free speach dead too I wonder?! So I sit on a curb wondering and wondering as I watch small tourist groups tentitivly wander up wondering the same thing as me I imagine.

After what seems like an hour, A man in muslim dress with stool in hand wanders up and I figure here we go. Another man with folding stool in hand sets up nearby and the two argue over the close proximity to each other and settle on a debate. We pick the popic and keep time. Not long into it the topic comes to terrorism and the war in Iraq. Very spirited discussion that this listener found the Imam to be losing. The two finally split up and by now there are several "soap boxes" going and the whole scene is quite amuzing. A note to any that want to go here, Sunday morning means more like noon before things get heated up.

Head back to the family as I feel a little guilty at indulging in a favorite past time. We then grab a bus to Harrods to see the decadence of it all and are not dissappointed. DW looked at tea cups but choked at the 115.00 GBP price tag. And that was on sale! Did buy sandwiches and crisps to eat outside which again was very good. Bought some other culinary treats to take home including some of the hottest English Mustard I ever tasted. Bought some desserts and chocolates to take to a park for later.

Bussed our way over to Westminster Abby and Parlement for the last minute photo ops and I ran accross the street to "Peoples Park" to eat the creme brule I had been carrying around. Funny thing my family didn't following as there are no cross walks to this square and they were in no mood to play frogger with the traffic. They found a shady bench to wait for me who was more then willing to play frogger as I grew up in Chicago and that is what we did there.

We finally stray back to the hotel for the last time to pack and get ready for Spain. We have 0445 wake-up call so please let us fall asleep fast.

thereyet

Some last notes about the London portion of the trip.

It is a myth that the food isn't good there. I didn't have a single bad meal or snack and I was looking for the off the wall stuff. Didn't try the kababs though. Didn't have an English tea other then what the hotel provided. DS and DW did not like the Indian we had but I don't think they would have liked it at home either.

There is no way to see it all so don't hurt yourself trying. I feel we just scratched the surface. It is easy to see why others return over and over again. I could see myself doing that as well. When traveling as a family there are different interest among us so a lot of give and take has to occur.

The cost of things is only expensive from a yanks perspective because our dollar sucks and that is not the fault of Great Britain so tough for us.

I never saw so many Ferraris and Lamborghinis in one place!

I absolutely loved this portion of the trip and to my surprise my wife is pretty happy she took the plunge into European travel as well.

thereyet

Still enjoying your report and looking forward to the Spain portion!

Also envious that you got to meet audere!

Keep up the great report!


easytraveler

Oh good, here is your trip report thereyet! It is midnight so I will read it tomorrow evening while enjoying a glass of wine. I was hoping that you would tell us about your trip..welcome home!!!

Thereyet certainly gets a tip of the tifer for going to a cricket game. And dragging his trouble n strife and bin-lid along.

Talk about off the beaten track.

<<dragging his trouble n strife and bin-lid along.>>

Audere, wierd thing is...I actually get what you mean!

btw, they really did have a good time too.

thereyet

Day 7:

Eaaaaarlyyyy wakeup at 0445 to get picked up by Just Airports for the trip to Stansted Airport. The driver is in a hurry because he has another London fare at 0600. Funny how he knows all the places he must slow down or risk some ticket in the mail I imagine. We enjoy the thrill ride though and the driver was talkative. One of the pluses of cabs and hired cars versus buses or trains. These drivers are great sources of info.

We arrive safely at Stansted to find the cattle call that is Easyjet. Of course we are in line with a huge group of young people going to the Fiesta de San Fermin and a big family that seems to be having alot of problems checking in. Patients thereyet, patients... la lala la la la la. Definitely different rules leaving the UK at security with ONE carryon, so we stuff everything we carried on to comply with the rules. On to the hot plane and off to Spain with delay as has been the case for every flight.

Really bumpy landing as I expect we have a rookie pilot but safe and sound on the ground in the land of TAPAS or pinxtos as they are known in the Basque region, Bilboa to be exact.

We are renting a car from Avis and everything is in order as I should repeatedly give props to our travel agent who took good care of us. We end up with a free upgrade to a Saab sedan for whatever reason. I am now very grateful for my Spanish speaking wife because the fact that I don't speak the language beyond pleasantries is just sinking in! With rental agency map in hand we head off to the car.

Manual trani, need to reach back in time for my driving skills. Figuring out the differences of a European car. Think I am ready to negotiate the roads, immediatly kill the engine for the first of many times this day. I told my family to quit it when they reached 7 in counting the times I killed the engine. I can laugh about it now, it wasn't so funny at the time, cars honking at me and all.

We want to go into Bilboa for the Guggenheim museum. As we head into the complete opposite direction we realize the maps we were provided leave something to be desired. Suffice it to say this was the first of many times we were "lost" the entire time we drove. We also discovered after finding we had missed a turn or headed in the wrong direction, it was not an easy task to make corrections. In fact we got to know many places far better then anticipated trying to figure where the hell we were.

Kinda stressing out at this point we finally stumble acsross the city center and then we try to find PARKING, quite another adventure. Realizing parking is generally underground, we grab the first garage we can find which by no means was the closest to our destination. Happy to be out of the car and on our feet again, at least we were on the right side of the river, we walk along the river park towards the museum. What a sight it is. This building attracts you like moths to a fire. We stop for drinks and tapas to snack in what could best be described as a park like setting outside the museum.

We take in the museum, of which the building itself is the greatest work of art. The collection is eclectic, some of which was understandable others not so much. I think there was a culture problem for me at times. There was a fantastic and large exhibit of Albrecht Durer engravings late 15th to early 16th centuries that kept my attention for most of the time spent in the museum. Feet tired and a long walk back to the car and an hour and a half drive to Hondarribia ahead, we drag ourselves out of the building.

we finally find the autopista and are heading in the right direction, I think. After several expensive tolls we find the Irun/Hondarribia area we are staying in. Several wrong turns later we find the signs for the Parador de Hondarribia. Up the narrow streets we go and there is the 11th century castle we seek. Beautiful! Ontop of a hill it affords glorius views of what we have come to appreciate, a small fishing village and harbor.

The place is jaw dropping inside. We manage to get checked in by the very friendly and somewhat English speaking staff , although they prefer speaking in Spanish to my wife which is just fine with me. We find our room which somewhat sadly doesn't have the waterfront view but rather of the internal court which is stunning as well. Not to worry, there is a great patio for the guests that does have the glorious view of the water we were looking forward to.

We take a much needed nap and are happy to slip into the custom of siestas and late dinners. Things are much slower here then in London and the change is welcomed by us. We dined at the Sabastian resteraunt across the street and had very tasting steak/frit. The cost of dinning was considerably less then London as well but that is not a complaint of London just a welcome realization that we won't have to skimp as much.

Sleep comes easy in our very comfortable and spacious room.

thereyet

Sigh...this makes me want to go back to Spain. Last time I was there, Franco was in power...seriously. One of the main things I remember is how incredibly physically beautiful & kind Spaniards are.

I can't wait to hear more, ty.

My husband has never been. Maybe that should/could be our next trip.

Like audere, I admire your ability to travel with the brood in tow. We took out son with us on all our trips, and it was all terrific, no problemos -- until puberty hit. Eeeyi-yi, he so did not want to be with his once-wonderful, now-awful parents.

Lucie, highly recommend your husband going to Spain...with you of course.

Little ty is not such a pain in the arse as some fifteen year olds I have come across. Not that there aren't the occassional moments I wish I could trade him for a Ferrari or some such thing. The feeling is mutual of course.

threreyet

Day 8:

We are now in the land of breakfast included. A very nice buffet awaits our later waking hour. Very fresh small fried eggs, plenty of good bread, rolls, and pastries, fresh fruit, assorted Ibericos and cheeses, tortillas of course and even champaign for the wife. And lest I forget, really good coffee. All with the obligatory International Herald Tribune. After a very slow start to the day, I have a feeling we aren't going to get much done today, we head out to do the essential task of laundry. We manage to get lost two or three times trying to find the laundramat which is no more then 3km away in Irun. Once there I am perfectly happy to look at the pictures in some gossip rag while doing the laundry. This leaves DW/DS time to wander around and shop or window shop at least. I seem to run out of coins while they are gone and panic as my ATM card is still inopperable even after we spent about 75GBP in phone calls trying to sort things out. My card worked exactly once the whole trip! Luckly I find a 5 Euro note in my wallet and can go back with completly dry clothing. Nice to have clean clothes again.

Siesta comes early today as we have already accostomed ourselves to the new pace of things. We are hungry when we wake up at 4:00 so we stroll down the hill to the fisherman's village where there are loads of pinxtos bars to choose from. We find Gran Sol, which I had read about in Maribel's Guide, and man what a spread! The bartender was completely welcomming and invited us to pick out whatever we wanted on the bar. We settled on some elaborate items with smoked salmon, mushrooms, anchovies, crab salad, little Iberico sandwiches, olives, fried artichokes and other things I wasn't even formilier with. I was the only one that would eat those items we couldn't tell what they were. All were excellent. House wine for DW and agua con gas for me and DS.

We stroll back up the hill and come across what seemed like a hidden tiny square near the Parador with a couple of bar/cafes. We settle down for espressos and whatch the scene. What we found ourselves watching was a highlight of our stay as five young boys with a soccer ball entertained us to no end. Lets just say it was Dennis the Menice meets the Little Rascals and leave it at that. Well ok, I won't leave you hanging like that. It involved mooning the bar, trying to pee on each other and flipping the bird to the mom hanging out the window above the square and yelling at them. We later dubbed it Dennis Square and always had to take a peek as we passed through the rest of the week.

Around 9:30 we head back down the hill and dine at Yola Berri, also mentioned in Maribel's guide. I had the local specialty Merluza, DW had the evening special of salmon, dessert, and a bottle of wine (all for 14 euro) and DS had manilla clams. I don't think we spent more then 55 euro.

Completely satisfied with the day we head back, now 11:30, and sleep very well.

thereyet

I just found your report and am enjoying it immensely.

We went to Racine's last summer one night when we were looking for a casual dinner, since it was described as a 'casual French bistro'. We were dressed in shorts. Casual it was not! But, it was expensive!

TG2, I'm sorry you got that desciption of Racine's. It must have felt awkward. Very delicious food though. Glad you are enjoying the report.

thereyet

Day 9:

A note about the weather, it has been somewhat rainy since we arrived in Spain. Before we went to sleep, DW and DS asked what we would do tommorow. I told them if it was sunny we would go to San Sabastian and if it were still rainy we would go to Franzia.

Well to Franzia we go, weather not cooperating for the beach. We head North or what my internal compass tells me is North at any rate. Still left with poor road maps the usual "are we going the right way" sets in. When the signage turns to french I figure I at least got the North part right but now we can't understand the signs. Stop at the first gas station and buy a GOOD map. This helps a little and we do find our way to St. Jean de Luz. Grab the first parking spot and get the heck out of the car.

This is a very nice small old part of town with fishing/pleasure craft port and narrow streets with lots of cafes and shopping, and a great beach. The water looks cold and there aren't many people in the water. There is a nice promenade along the waterfront though. We do get into St. Vincents during an organ recital which was great. I can picture some serious prayer going on here for all the fisherman who go out to sea everyday.

We take a turn through the plaza which is dominated by street artists with good talent. I get caught up watching them paint and have to restrain myself from pulling out my credit card, which now works by the way.

In the distance across the harbor by the sea wall there is an interesting looking fort that we want to drive over to. We make to the sea wall and climb around for awhile getting some great photos after which we settle in at a cafe on the water. Ds and I order what turns out to be a nicely cooked ground beef patty with frit and DW has a salad with tuna.

We climb back into the car and decide to drive back along the coast, which reminds me alot of Big Sur at home. Hard to get lost with the water on one right. We come to the next beach town and as the rain returns we see a flood of disappointed looking beach goers running away from the shores.

Back to the Parador for siesta, then back to Gran Sol for more pinxtos. This was the only place during our trip that we visited twice, we loved it. This time we found there menu of specialty pinxtos which included some more luxurious ingredients like oysters and fois gras. Each tiny dish like a piece of art. We were filled after this visit but managed to stop by the gelateria with the crowd out front. Awsome. Glad I didn't find it sooner. Very nice stroll back to the top of the hill and bed.

thereyet

What a charming and interesting trip report thereyet!

I love your manner of writing, one feels as though they are there with you and your family.

And spending time with audere, what a treat that must have been. I am worried a bit about me though as I did understand what he meant when he referred to your trouble n strife and bin-lid!

Thereyet, I wanted to share something with you. I was given a beautiful book five years ago. The title is
"Historical Paradors".. A Journey Through Spanish Hotels. I pulled it out after reading your trip report and the very first section is regarding Hondarribia. The history along with beautiful photos. And the Parador de Hondarribia is highlighted, again with wonderful photos. You might want to purchase this book..I would think it would be a wonderful treasure for you and your family. The ISBN is 3-8290-2233-6

I look forward to your next installment. Thank you so much for sharing your trip with us. I still think the first trip to Europe is the most magical of all!

Hi LoveItaly, thanks for sharing the info on the book. I have been to Europe before but it was a looooong time ago as a child. We sent our trouble and strife to Spain last summer with school as well, so it was just DW's first time and I think she was very impressed.

I guess the title of my TR does give that impression. What I meant was it is my first attempt at a trip report.

Glad you are enjoying the report,

thereyet

Hi thereyet, I enjoyed it very much..I sincerely did and I look forward to reading more.

I was amazed that the book I had not only profiled the Parador that you stayed in but that the photos were so beautiful. If nothing else I hope you could see if your library has this book.

Traveling with a teen is fun (well most of the time). A memory your son will have forever I am sure.

Day 10:

Last full day in the Basque Region. The sun is out so to the Pearl of Spain we go. San Sabastian or Denostia as it is known in the Basque language. The weather has finally cooperated and we are back in the car heading south. The usual discomfort behind the wheel sets in immediatly when we near the city, which is larger then I anticipate. Luckily the traffic flows right to the heart of town and we find underground parking as soon as possible.

We quickely find the tourist info office and they are very kind to offer all the info we ask for. Not far from the office is the "old" part of town which is of great interest to me. Dominated by two beautiful old churches which are open for a peak and are stunning inside. The streets are narrow and full of tapas bars which attract me and my hunger. The bar tops are loaded with great food and eager bartenders to plate what we want. I do avoid the eals not so much that I was chicken but rather my wife wouldn't have kissed me again that day if I had eaten them. There was a little chickeness in me though. I really was looking for squid in their ink but none was to be found this day.

We head back towards the Cathedral down a busy Boulevard because a friend had asked me to try and find some theological writings in Spanish. I can't find the exact book but I pick up what i think will suffice. We also stop by the post office for some stamps for all the postcards I keep telling myself I need to send.

With the tasks done for the day, I finally promise DW/DS we will go to the beach. Not my personal favorite thing to do but I tell myself it's not all about me. They are happy to sunbath will I walk the long crescent that is the waterfront of San Sabastian. My son is most keen to the fact that this is a European beach with all that implies as far as the fairer sex is concerned. Needless to say, I think he had the time of his life.

When I finished the my solo stroll, I don't think they were very pleased that I had had enough. I burn like a matchlight brickett and needed to get out of the sun. We ended up sitting in the plazza for a while before finally heading back to the car and making the drive back to Hondarribia for the last time. Of course that meant driving through town in direction not known before we at last saw the signs that sent us back in the right direction.

That night we dined at Hermandad for more merluza, Sopa de pescado, and what was essentially fish and chips for DS. The restraunt is set up with common tables and we had great company with a couple from Brussels. The conversation was a highlight for me in this small town.

Off to bed for tomorrow we leave via Pamplona, the Fiesta de San Fermin, and Zaragoza.

thereyet

ttt

theryet, thanks for topping. I missed your report the first time around. Thoroughly enjoyed reading it! Thanks for posting.

Interesting trip report. You are not the first one that has had ATM cards not work in Europe. Search this forum and you'll see it is quite common. I had investigated this at great length, and had decided to bring some local currency just in case plastic doesn't work. It's something to keep in mind next time - last thing you want to do is be stuck in a city with no money and no way of getting any money!

thereyet,

Thanks for topping this for us. I enjoyed your trip, good detail and your usual humor. Sound like you enjoyed yourself.

Whereto next, thereyet?

MvK

Not sure how he does it, my DS(dumb son)
can sleep really well on long flights. I think he's sneaking some drinks?

bkluvsnola, I first found out that my plastic didn't work in the hired car trip from the airport. Luckily it was already paid for but I wanted to tip the driver. Quite embarasing jumping in and out of the car on the side of the road trying to find a card between my wife and myself that would work. We finally got cash but I don't think the driver cared for the waste of his time.

MvK, I was just wondering tonight where the next trip will be. Funny you should ask. I was thinking going back to Chicago ( my home town), then to a friends in Northern Wisconsin for fishing and possibly to northern Mn. for a conoe trip in the Boundry Waters. I also always like driving the Pacific Northwest. We shall see. Of course I am looking forward to Europe again but my bank account will have to recover first!

I will try and add to this trip report too. I hit a liitle TR fatigue. I don't type too fast and this much took a long time for me.

Comming; Pamplona, Zaragoza, and Barcelona.

thereyet

thereyet,

My DW is insisting on a western USA trip before I'm "allowed" to think about Europe again.

I have a friend retiring from the U.S. Army next month and would like to attend his retirement ceremony in Co. Springs, a nice getaway and a pleasant visit. I have another friend with slightly more than a year left to live that I'd like to see again in Tacoma ( nice getaway but a not-so-pleasant" visit), and DW would love to visit Jackson Hole again so it is "Westward Ho" for us. Of course living in FL inhibits much eastward or southernly "HO".

The Fodorites have convinced me that a visit to France might be worth looking into, no longer suffering from the unfounded "hate the French" bias thanks to these fine folks. It is still my dream to tour the Alps (Swiss, Austria, Slovenia, and Italy) solo (OK, DW may go but she has to ride by herself, none of that sidecar or backseat rider junk) by motorcycle. Keep my wits and health about me and I'll get that done before I hit 60. Less than 7 years to go, I need to get down to planning (and saving for) that one!

MvK

MvK, the Alps are fantastic. Be sure to get there before the glaciers melt.

I tried to fit Paris into this trip but I told my wife it would be a three week trip and she told me I only got two weeks. I did get to sneak a tiny bit of France in with St. Jean De Luz though.

My son had a negative experience with CDG last year and has copped an attitude about France which has rubbed off on my wife, so that might have had something to do with that part of the trip being shot down. I really wanted to take the chunnel train trip. Oh well, we had a great time which bodes well for the future.

thereyet

Day 11:

I pick up the Spanish paper, not sure which one, and look at the pictures of Fiesta de San Fermin from the day before and am pretty comfortable with the idea of skipping the actual running of the bulls. Man, the papers really get gory with the photos. Lots of blood. Apperently one of the larger bulls broke off from the pelaton and wreaked havoc on the crowd! These papers will make a nice souvineer for friends back home.

We finally pack up and head East on the autopista. This is a very beautiful drive through the mountains to start. The tolls are quite significant and random but well worth the tour of the lush green mountains. Great photo opportunities abound as I pull over at half a dozen viewpoints. Small villages are nestled into the Valleys usually dominated by a church and I imagine that the inhabitants are probably all related.

We arrive in Pamplona around lunch time which is good because we are hungry. No problem finding the action because it is all around us. EVERYONE is wearing white with red scarves and belts, except us of course. Every park is full of activity, arts and craft booths, food stalls, stages for entertainment, lots of oportunity to pick up the signiture souvineers and tee shirts. We stroll from park to park and through the narrow streets of the bull run.

Everyone is walking around with huge containers of whatever it is they are drinking. An important accompanyment given the pictures in the paper this morning. Nothing like a little liquid courage to face the bulls on a charge!

We ate jamon and octopus in the park. DW had some of the fortifide sangria that is the drink of choice and just relax before we hit the road again.

Leaving town in exactly the wrong direction we get a good feel for the place before we make our correction and turn around. One observation we make is there are alot of hospitals in Pamplona and I imagine all the goring victims laid up in their hospital beds as we drive by.

Back on the autopista, we are out of the mountains and have hit the plains of northern spain. I am quite happy that everyone is driving like bats out of hell at 160km/hour, I later figure out that was something like a 100mph and am glad my wife doesn't make the calculations as she would have been all over my ass for it. Thankfully we don't get any speeding tickets.

Needless to say we arrive in Zaragoza PDQ and are promptly "lost" trying to find our hotel. Zaragoza is a bit of an industrial town, quite populated. After getting directions from a pedestrian we arrive at the hotel which is nice but unmemoriable. We are tired and go out for Italian as pasta is a good break from all the pinxtos we hacve had for the last week. Off to bed and tomorrow we finish the drive to Barcelona.

thereyet

Hi annhig, I am topping for you.

thereyet

thereyet, Very happy you enjoyed your trip. I had missed your report entirely. Also glad you now know how to bowl a maiden over Cricket is a colorful game, for sure.

Hi Comfy,

Really loved the game of cricket and was challenged to understand it at first but the basic concepts were totally doable with the help of audere and other most impressed Brits that us yanks had bothered to come out.

One of these days I will get to finishing the Barcelona ending to the story.

thereyet

Loved reading yor trip report. And can't wait to go back to Hondarribia!

Hi HappyTrvlr, Hondarribia was my favorite place in Spain. It was so close to so much if you have a car, yet so peaceful and full of pleasure.

thereyet

Hi, thereyet,

thanks for topping - I'd found it myself and got to you topping post just after you did it!

I loved your report of london - I've often wondered what tourists find to do in London and you described it very well - so many things I never did though I worked there for 18 years or so.

as for the cricket - you've gone one better than me as I've not made it to Lords yet. [another thing I didn't do!] I'm sure you had great novelty value for the suits and featured at a no. of dinner parties. I suspect that the cricketer you saw was Ravi Bopara - who featured in england's spectacular 50/50 win over india on thursday night.

if you are suffering from cricket withdrawal symptoms, you can access the radio commentary by going to the BBC web-site at www.bbe.co.uk and clicknig on "radio" then BBC Five live sports extra. the next match is on Sunday starting 5am your time. [depending on where in the US you live, it might be 3am!] but it goes on all day so you might catch some of it.

the commentary is a real art-form - lots about pigeons, buses, and general chat. Now you've seen a match, you might be interested. [i seem to remember we discussed this before in the context of baseball commentary].

I missed this thread as we were away on our own trip when you were posting. I'm so glad you had such a good trip.

regards, ann

I'd pay good cash money to watch an American listen to Test Match Special!

To say that it isn't like normal sports broadcasting is understating massively.

How was St. Jean de Luz? Did you continue to Bayonne?

John, St. Jean was great. Narrow streets with sidewalk cafes, fishing port with all the fresh seafood that goes with it, pictuesque plaza dominated by street artists, old church with freee organ recitels, great beach although it wa off and on rainy when we were there, and a sea wall with fort that was fun to play on.

Did not get to Bayonne although I would have liked to.

thereyet

Day 12: We finish the drive to Barcelona through the Northern Plains. Very hot. The highways are very nice and the Pueguet drives very fast! Good thing my wife can't convert KPH to MPH or I would have had an earfull. Made it to Barcelona in something like 2 1/2 hours. Of course I don't follow directions very well and am all wide eyed as I drive down a main road, but wait, how the heck do you get off this road? Not the usual turnabouts, I think I made an illegal move or two, one right in front of a cop who gave me the evil eye. Needless to say my only way off was all the way to the end...and what do you know? There is the road I was looking for, la gran via. I was only about 20 blocks off but very comfortable only looking for numbers now and not streets.

Found the hotel, great door service and valet. Checked in very efficiently, and up to a beautiful room.

The Hotel is just one block from the main plaza at the top of the Rambla. I return the car to the rental agency in a mall a couple of miles away and hop a bus back to the Hotel. We rest the afternoon away as I was forwarned by the lovely Fodorites that evening begins LATE in Barcelona.

We went out for dinner to a sidewalk cafe, there are so many, i think it best to go with the crowds. We were not disappointed and pleased that it was actually quite affordable. Later, after dropping off all our valubles in the Hotel, my son and I cruise down to the Rambla to sight see the craziness. Watching the con artist teams and looking out for the pick pockets was actually a highlight of the late night activity. Saw a couple of arrests, although even those looked staged as we saw the same reutine the very next night in the very same place.

Day 13: We have a very nice buffet breakfast in the hotel which is included. They know how to do breakfast in Spain! We head over to Passeig de Gracia to shop for my wife and son, I am not a big shopper but I would have been killed if I did not include this activity. Again we are praticing the great tradition of siesta in the afternoon. And another late dinner. We find ourselves finishing dinner at around midnight and head back to the hotel.

Day 14: We walk the entire length of the Rambla, it is interesting how it is broken up into sections, street musicians and performance artists here, cafes there, art stalls down there and then the jewelry stalls at the end.

It is here, for the first time we felt really ripped off at a cafe for lunch. It was seemingly a typical cafe. It was very hot out and a terrible thirst had built up. At this cafe, everyone had drinks in huge mugs. Lemonade, ice tea, beer, sangria, you name it. So we order lunch and a round of drinks. Well when the bill came you can bet I was shocked when I learn that those drinks were about 20 euros each! Almost twice the cost of the food. After the fact i tried to find where it showed the price of the drinks, you guessed it, now where to be found. Oh well, I thought, live and learn. Good damn thing I had enough cash on me. They didn't look too friendly when I was fumbling around trying to find all the euros I needed. Yeesh!

Well, I would recommend NOT eating on the lower end of the Rambla.

We repeated the ritual of siesta and late dinner as the previous nights.

Day 15: I am really interested in going to the Piccasso museum so we head out to find it in time for it's opening. We took the long walk with me navigating? Yeah right. I was all eyes everywhere into the Latin Quarter as we came across a parade of religious ceramony. Well, we end up at the water and i can't figure out where I went wrong. My wife and son were about to melt down and I suggest we dive into the narrow streets off the main road. Are you crazy? was the response I got from my wife as she snatched the map out of my hand. Yes dear I am crazy as I follow her down the RIGHT road to the Museum. We were a little late s a huge line had already formed thanks to me.

The Museum was fantastic, in an ancient building, touring from room to room. My son was very interested in the collection of what we termed Piccasso porn, who knew. Anyway, an unbelievable collection of one of my favorite artists. You could really see the evolution of his work from childhood to sage and mature master.

In the afternoon, we headed to what seemed like the other side of town, to the Segrada de Familia. What a wonderous building. the hotel clerk states unequivically that it will NEVER be finished. It just isn't meant to be so. If she is wrong in my lifetime, I want to go back. Gaudi is such a presence in this city and I can not say enough about the wonder his architecture set off in me. I am speechless when it comes to his work. I didn't get to go into any of his buildings which was something of a disappointment, next time though I will. We ate at a sidewalk cafe in the shadows of the Segrada. The stroll through the neighborhoods really gave a feel for the everyday life of Barceloneans.

Day 16: Our last day of the trip, a low key day as the reality of our trip coming to an end is hitting us. We did take a cab to the Palace and the Olympic park. After the long walk up the steps a fantastic view of the city is afforded. We head back to the hotel to pack and get to bed early as we fly out early.

Day 17: We fly to Heathrow only to get Caught in the crush of security, no way will we make our connection! We are shunted to a line for those who miss there flights and they tell us that we are staying another night which bring my wife to tears. The pup is on her mind and they find a single seat to SF IF she runs right now. She does, leaving me and my son behind. Looks like a night out for the boys, oh darn. They put us up in a nice enough hotel, give us a little "kit" of toiletries and some vouchers for food. Let's go to the movies my son says. So we are off to Harry Potter, just out and what a thrill it was to see it in London.

We did finally make our way home from a trip of a life time and we are already thinking of when oh when can we return. Whenever it is it will be during Footy season to be sure!

thereyet

I missed your report the first time around, thereyet. It's a fun read. I remember your planning threads and am glad you all liked London so much.

And he actually knows that an entrée is not a main course

Thanks noe and that i do MP, and they are both delicious!

thereyet

I LOVED this trip report - thanks so much!