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The plan so far: Venice, Florence, Rome.

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The plan so far: Venice, Florence, Rome.

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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 10:38 AM
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The plan so far: Venice, Florence, Rome.

Hello Fodorites

I’ve been reading and posting here as well as on Slow Travel as I plan for my Italy trip. You have given me a lot to think about. Some of the suggestions I have taken, some not, but I’ve carefully considered each and I appreciate your interest. I’m posting this info on both sites as a summary of the plan so far.

I wish I had come across the “Slow Travel” concept a little earlier in my planning. But maybe it would not have made a difference. Someone here suggested to me early in my planning that I omit one of the three cities on my itinerary and while he is probably right, I cannot begin to think of not going to Venice, or Rome, or Florence.

I’d like to jot down my itinerary to date and solicit your questions, comments, concerns, suggestions, whatever. (Maybe I am looking for reassurance; I have never planned a trip like this before…)

Some background, I am traveling with my sister. We are financing the trip with part of a small inheritance. Our parents were ill and died over the past few years—very ugly, cancer for Dad and Alzheimer’s for Mom. Then came the settling of the estate, probate and so on, yeeech. It has just been a miserable few years. One day I said to my sis, when this is all over we should run away to Venice. She agreed. So that was that. Neither of us has been to Italy.

She has a very demanding job and is leaving the planning to me. Which is fine, I am loving this. It’s my new hobby.

We are flying out of Miami on November 6th (Monday night, arriving Tuesday) , returning on November 18th (Saturday morning, arriving that afternoon). We are spending three nights in Venice, four nights in Florence, and four nights in Rome. As I said, this is not slow travel, but what could I omit?

We are taking trains for our intercity travel.

In Venice we are staying at the Villa Igea. Campo San Zaccaria. Very good comments on Trip Advisor. Attached to the Venice portion of the trip we will visit Padua. Either as a day trip on Thursday, or as a stop en route to Florence. I prefer the idea of the stop en route to Florence but I need to find a place to stash the luggage—I have not found the info yet on the TrenItalia site.

Some of the things I want to do in Venice:

Take the #1 Vaporetto from one end of its route to the other.
Visit the Guggenheim Museum
Take an evening bar tour, enjoying wine and little snacks
Ride in a gondola—seriously

Then on to Florence. It looks like there are about 12 trains every day. I do not plan to buy tickets ahead. We are way off season so I am not expecting any difficulty. I want the flexibility to leave early or late.

In Florence I have reservations at Il Guelfo Bianco, on Via Cavour. I have not yet figured out how to get from the airport/train stations to any of these hotels but I plan to get that information from the hoteliers.

Some things I want to do in Florence include:

See David
Tour the Uffizi—I have heard I need reservations. I will make these through the hotel.
There is a Context: Florence evening walking tour that sounds great and a day trip offered by Accidental Tourist that involves wine and cooking and it sounds great, too. Monday would be a good day for this as the Uffizi and the Accademia are both closed.
I want to visit the famous old pharmacy/perfumerie that I can’t remember the name of
The Duomo, of course
I’d like to attend Mass somewhere on Sunday—maybe that is the time to see the Duomo
I have a nephew who will be in Florence for the semester, we will want to meet up with him and take him out for a good meal or two

By now it will be Tuesday the 14th and we will be on our way to Rome. So much Rome, so little time!

We will be staying at the Hotel Regno, on Via del Corso, near Piazza di Spagna. Sounds like I know what I’m talking about, doesn’t it?

I’m thinking that guided tours might be in order in Rome. I’m looking at Context: Rome for the Coliseum and Forum, and someone for the Vatican Museum/Sistine Chapel/St. Peter’s as well. Although the self-guided tour in Rick Steves’ book looks pretty thorough. I’m still thinking on that.

Then it is time to go home, alas.

I hope I am not packing ten lbs of sightseeing into a five lb bag. I want to be sure I have time to just walk around, sit in cafes, and get lost. I’d like to do some interesting things in the evening, maybe a concert or the opera.

I’ve already purchased the round-trip air tickets and I bought trip insurance—I hope it turns out to be a waste of money!

I have not yet begun to think about restaurants, or what to pack. We both want to pack light enough to carry on.

But I think I have made a good start. If you have read this far, thank you for your interest. I am interested in your comments and suggestions. Bear in mind that I have never done this before so don’t assume that I am making educated decisions if you see something that looks strange. Thank you.

Olive Oil
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 10:47 AM
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I tried to answer your question about the Padova lockers. Someone might have suggested checking with the Tourist Info Office on that thread. I Googled the info for you:

http://www.turismopadova.it/turismo/informazioni

I've never been to the Guggenheim in Venice. If you're interested in modern art, you should check out the Palazzo Grassi. The French mogul Pinault moved his art collection here. I've read about it and it sounds interesting. It just opened this year, so I don't know it. The inaugural exhibit closes before you get there, but you may want to check what else is happening.

Have fun.
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 10:52 AM
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By the way I don't know if Padova has lockers -- but I used a manned office when I was there. It was quite near the TI -- either right next to it or something close. In fact, it could very well be the TI. (I doubt it though.)
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 11:15 AM
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Your itinerary looks good to me.
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 11:30 AM
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We spent 6 nights in Rome. We didn't particularly love it, but when I asked everyone after the trip if they wished we had spent fewer nights in Rome, they all said "But what would we have cut out?" There are so many things to do and see in Rome. I recommend that both of you write down your absolute "must sees." I know that you plan to book Colloseum and Vatican Tours. Those will take up two half-days. I HIGHLY recommend booking reservations to the Galleria Borghese. The sculpture is simply magnificent.

Of course, the Spanish steps and all of the terrific fountains can be seen at all hours, so they aren't a real problem to fit in.

You are doing your trip in exactly the opposite order that we did ours. We started in Rome and did 2 musuems, several historic sites, LOTS of churches and almost no shopping; in Florence we divided our time pretty equally among museums, churches and shopping; and in Venice we saw no museums, a few churches and did lots of shopping. The trip was planned so that our time would be less structured and more relaxed as the trip went on.

You might want to think of such a concept as you plan your trip. As exciting as it all sounds now, by the time you hit Rome, you may be sick of musuems and churches. Find out in advance where the best shopping streets are for whatever interests you. Maybe you can plan to see some live theatre or attend a concert. Be prepared for a bit of tourism fatigue and plan accordingly.

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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 12:00 PM
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Dear Olive - what a great idea. I really support your slow travel idea. THat said, I agree with missypie that by the time you get to Rome, you'll be sick of museums.
THerefore, I agree with your ?freind's suggestion that rather than go to Florence, you cut it out and "do" one of the italian lakes or stay in the Tuscan countryside.
Yes, i know, you can't bear to do it, but do you want to enjoy yourself? or just count off must do sights? Because that's how you'll feel if you don't give yourselves a break!
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 12:42 PM
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I'm no expert, but I have been to all three cities, and I'd say your itinerary is busy but reasonable.

The biggest issue, I'd say, is the amount of time required for train travel from city to city. That's going to eat into your touring time a little bit, but it's not a killer.

Also, I'd say the amount of time in each city sounds about right. You could spend more time in Rome, but it's pretty hectic there and sometimes draining. You should be able to see the highlights in four nights. Ditto Florence.

One more quibble: As I understand it, the order of your visit is Venice, Florence, Rome. I probably would have done the reverse order, ending up in Venice.

A lot of people find that preferable because Venice, with no cars, seems like a nice, calm way to end a trip after spending time amid the hubbub of Rome and the lesser hubbub of Florence. No big deal, though. You're still going to have a great time.

A couple of restaurant recommendations for Florence: 1. Zio Gigi -- inexpensive place favored by locals. 2. La Buca D'Orofalo -- near the Ponte Vecchio, finer dining, probably need reservations. For gelato, Per Que Non is good.

One other Florence tip: At the Ponte S. Trinita, the next bridge after the Ponte Vecchio, there's a silver shop on the corner (can't remember the name). If you go in, ask for Luisa (after 3 pm). She's an American expat who can answer questions abut Florence -- and maybe sell you a little something.

Have a great time.

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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 01:36 PM
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Hi Olive,

I am impressed with your planning of this trip.

My only advice would be to take the time to relax and absorb the atmospheres of these wonderful cities and the Italian culture. Keep in mind that if you don't see everything on your list it will be okay because you will return to Italy again some day.

Have a wonderful trip!

Zoe
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 01:37 PM
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I commend you for your effort so far.

My only suggestion would be to substitute a Tuscan hilltown - San Gimignano or Siena or Orvieto (not in Tuscany) for Padua.

I hope you and your sister get the enjoyment from this trip that you deserve...
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 01:55 PM
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Dear Olive Oil, I think you are doing a great job with your research and planning. I can completely emphathise with your situation having lost my mom to Alzheimers in May. We are also starting out Italian trip in Venice, mostly because I thought we might start slowly and work up to the hecticness of Rome. I have time to rest when I get home. Our goals and plans for Venice, Florence, and Rome are almost identical. We have booked two Context Rome tours; the Vatican and Ancient Rome. I leave in October so maybe I can give you some tips when we return. This is our first trip, also.

Please continue to update your plans. Obviously I am very interested to hear what you decide from here on.

Diane
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 02:06 PM
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The Guggenheim in Venice is quite good, and I don't like modern art very much, so that's saying something.
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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 05:53 PM
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Thanks, all, for the suggestions and insights. Some I can't act on: I already have plane reservations so I will be flying into Venice and out of Rome.

111op: I remember our exchange about the lockers/luggage storage in Padua. I think I was concerned about the closing time, esp in winter. I emailed trenitalia but have not heard back. But I am not going to make myself crazy over it. And thanks for the tip on the Palazzo Grassi. I'll check it out.

Missypie and Annhig and zoecat, you all offer sage advice and something to think abaout. I definitely do not to be worn to a frazzle by my vacation. Thanks for the thoughtful responses.

j-999-9: I have not even begun to think about restaurants yet! Time to get started. I will save your rec's.

TuckH, my sis has a thing for St Anthony, hence the trip to Padua, but I am looking forward to it none the less.

Diane, I am sorry to hear about your mother. I hope she wasn't ill too long and that it did not take too hard a toll on your family.
I am excited for you that you have this trip coming up and that you will be able to tell us all about it before I set out on mine! I'd love to hear more about your plans.

And thanks for the encouragement JoeTro and dcd.

More soon as the plans fill out!

OO

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Old Jul 24th, 2006, 06:33 PM
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OO

I too think your itinerary is good; you are doing a bang up job of planning, first time out! As someone else said, your plans are busy, but very doable.

No matter where you are going, someone will tell you to go somewhere else. I think your choice of the Big Three is a good one for a first time visit to Italy. You and your sister won't need a car, and you will find trains are very easy to use. Hotels may suggest taxis from the train station.

In Rome, be careful with the taxi. They love to overcharge. Ask your hotel what the typical fare from the train station will be, and don't get in a taxi at Termini that won't tell you something quite near that fare. This isn't a problem in Florence.

You are going to have a great time, and you and your sister deserve it after all you've been through.

Bring home some yummy olive oil!
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Old Jul 25th, 2006, 06:12 PM
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OO....
My husband and I are planning the same trip as you are, except that we are going to rent a car in Florence and go into the Tuscany region for 5 days. I am going to do a cooking class in Figline Valdarno, and then we are doing some wine tours in Montalcino,Montepulciano and Siena. My son owns a wine store in Texas, where we live, and so we have been able to get into some wineries for tours.
Then we will take the car back to Florence, drop it off and take the train to Rome...
I'm really torn on what to see in Rome also. We will have two and a half days there.....Probably will do the Vatican and Colloseum and then just walk around the city...
We are going the last two weeks in September. Can't wait....
BB
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Old Jul 26th, 2006, 07:09 AM
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Hi OO,

Good plan.

Uffizi and Academia Museum Reservations
The easiest and cheapest way is to call Florence 1016868 (dial around number), 011 (U.S. international access code) 39 (Italy's country code) then 055-294-883 8:30-18:30 M-F and 8:30-12:00 Sat. Florence time. You will get an English speaking operator and in 2-3 minutes YOU CAN RESERVE FOR BOTH. This is through the reservation service at the Uffizi and costs beyond the normal entry fee only about 3 euro for the service. This is MUCH cheaper than the commercial booking services.

You will not be charged for the reservations unless you use them.



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Old Jul 26th, 2006, 07:45 AM
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Your plan sounds good, and it sounds like Venice-Florence-Rome is the right choice for the two of you.

We have made several trips to Italy begin with a flight into the Venice airport. I feel like nothing much can beat arriving there, then taking water transport (either waterbus or taxi) into Venice. It's a great way to start a trip!

And even though I enjoy Rome more each time we visit, I think starting a trip in Venice is easier. If only by the virtue of the lack of cars, Venice is an "easier" city. It's quieter and slower. Yes, it's easy to get lost (at least for me), but that's part of the enjoyment of Venice. I like to end up in the busier, bustling city of Rome, though one of the reasons that I do like it is because it feels, to me, like a "real" city, full of people going about their regular, daily lives.

Enjoy!
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Old Jul 26th, 2006, 08:04 AM
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I think your itinerary sounds perfect. Don't fuss anymore about it. You are smart to see the Big Three this time. You don't want to cut one city out, and there's no need to. It's easy to travel by train between them, too.
We recently spent three nights each in Rome-Florence-Venice. It was just barely enough time for Rome and Florence, just right for Venice. We didn't have time in Rome for Borghese Galleries, which we would have liked to visit.
If you click on my screen name above, you will find my trip reports from each city posted separately. The reports include details about restaurants we liked, thing to do, and the one day-trip we took from Florence to San Gimignano.
For the Vatican Museums, go directly to the Vatican website and follow the directions to fax a request for a scheduled, guided tour. It is the least expensive tour, and I believe the only one that promises a particular entrance time so you avoid any lines. Although maybe not a problem in November. I also posted details about Vatican Museums tour, if you search on this forum you will find it. One other tip, be sure to visit the Vatican Museums first, because you can enter St. Peter's Basilica from the back exit of the Sistene Chapel, without going back into a line outside.
Have fun! Stop worrying!
 
Old Jul 26th, 2006, 06:01 PM
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That is so true, what tuscanlifeedit said, that no matter what you plan someone will say "but you must include suchandsuch..." I've said it myself. But that's OK, that's where trip ideas are born. I'm keeping my big three cities, for this trip, at least, the plan is set!
Thanks for the tip about the taxis.

BB, your trip sounds marvelous, and the cooking class is very interesting. What company is offering it? I hope you will post a trip report when you return.

Thanks for the res info, Ira, I just need to figure out what day or days to target for the museum visits. You are a font of useful information.

Lexma90, I've read in several places about the approach to Venice. I can hardly wait to experience it myself.

Maureen, Regarding the Vatican Museum, I am really hoping that the crowds will be way down in November. I plan to keep checking this board and asking folks who have recently returned how it was. If the reports are that the crowds are still awful and it is getting closer to the time I am going, then I'll make some rezzies.

I look forward to reading your trip reports.

Thanks all for the comments!
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 10:19 AM
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Let me try to encourage you about the Vatican museum. WE went at Easter and on Easter Tuesday joined a queue that was almost back into St. Peter's square. When we realised how long we'd have to wait, we ducked out and went over to Trastevere where there was hardly anyone about at all, apart from an irish party celebrating a wedding in the little trattoria where we stopped for lunch.
We went back on the Thursday, getting there at 9am. By 10.15 we were inside the building, and by 10.30 we were looking at the exhibits. There is a nice cafe where we had a late breakfast, a pizzeria, and a restaurant that does lunch. Once you are in you can take your time and see as much or as litle as you like.
The signs saying "to the sistine chapel" are rather misleading; they start almost by the entrance door and even if you follow them religiously [so to speak] it will take you about 2 hours to get there.
WE found it a bit disappointing really, though perhaps we had seen to much by then. Mainly the atmosphere was spoiled by the chattering of the other visitors.
At the back of the chapel [on the right with your back to the entrance] is a little door marked group exist only; take this door, and it will take you out down some steps and into St. Peter's without having to join the secuity queue again. Then find a little private spot, and take your shoes off.
I've not been in november, but I can't imaging that it could be busier than Easter. I'm sure you'll be fine.
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Old Jul 28th, 2006, 04:26 PM
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Olive Oil
The cooking class I am taking is in Figline Valdarno at the Ristorante Torre Guelfa, owned by English speaking Chef Claudio Piantini. I saw it on Sunday Morning TV show last year. If you look at the webwsite for the International Cooking Schools Vacations Italy you will find the info....... I told a friend of mine about it, and she just came back from Italy, and spent two days there (There is a villa you can stay at), and she loved it. I am so looking forward to it...... I will definately do a trip report when I get back on all of my Italy trip.........
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