The "Perfect week" in Sicily???
Jun 14th, 2014, 06:08 AM
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The "Perfect week" in Sicily???
I will be in Sicily one week in September with my brother and his wife, and since it is likely we won't ever get back, wanted to see/do as much as possible. We're not looking for this to be a relaxing vacation.. rather we're wanting to see as many of the most memorable sites/towns and monuments as possible. We also would love to stay at the nicest hotels and enjoy the best food...so any suggestions here would also be appreciated.
We planned to hire a driver to take us on the 7 day itinerary below. I know it may seem aggressive, but since we won't be doing the driving, hoped this was "doable". I'd appreciate your thoughts on this itinerary, and if I'm missing anything or you have other thoughts on "the perfect week"...I'd love to hear them. Thank you so much!!!
(Wednesday) Catania airport CTA (ETA h 11:20AM)/transfer to Taormina, 2 hour walking tour in the early evening. (Taormina overnight Grand Hotel Timeo)
(Thursday) 1/2 day excursion to Mt. Etna (Taormina overnight Grand Hotel Timeo)
(Friday) Taormina to Ragusa & Noto (Syracuse overnight Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel) (Saturday) Syracuse (Archaeological Park) AM/PM Piazza Armerina (Roman Villa of Casale)/ Agrigento (Agrigento overnight Hotel Villa Athena)
(Sunday) Agrigento (Temples Valley)/Monreale (Dome) & Palermo (speedy orientation tour) Palermo overnight Grand Hotel Villa Igiea
(Monday) Palermo/Erice, Segesta (Temple)/Palermo (Palermo overnight Grand Hotel Villa Igiea)
September 23 (Tuesday) transfer from Palermo hotel/to airport PMO (ETD h 11:55AM)
We planned to hire a driver to take us on the 7 day itinerary below. I know it may seem aggressive, but since we won't be doing the driving, hoped this was "doable". I'd appreciate your thoughts on this itinerary, and if I'm missing anything or you have other thoughts on "the perfect week"...I'd love to hear them. Thank you so much!!!
(Wednesday) Catania airport CTA (ETA h 11:20AM)/transfer to Taormina, 2 hour walking tour in the early evening. (Taormina overnight Grand Hotel Timeo)
(Thursday) 1/2 day excursion to Mt. Etna (Taormina overnight Grand Hotel Timeo)
(Friday) Taormina to Ragusa & Noto (Syracuse overnight Algila Ortigia Charme Hotel) (Saturday) Syracuse (Archaeological Park) AM/PM Piazza Armerina (Roman Villa of Casale)/ Agrigento (Agrigento overnight Hotel Villa Athena)
(Sunday) Agrigento (Temples Valley)/Monreale (Dome) & Palermo (speedy orientation tour) Palermo overnight Grand Hotel Villa Igiea
(Monday) Palermo/Erice, Segesta (Temple)/Palermo (Palermo overnight Grand Hotel Villa Igiea)
September 23 (Tuesday) transfer from Palermo hotel/to airport PMO (ETD h 11:55AM)
Jun 14th, 2014, 06:30 AM
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It can be incredibly hot in Sicily in September, so if you think you can keep up this pace in severe heat, then having someone else doing the driving (in an air conditioned car of sufficient size to truly comfortable) is probably mainly doable, ( with the exception of getting a tour of Palermo, see below). But I would check about how strenuous an Etna hike is if it is hot up there (have no idea, might be quite cool). Likewise, think about the timing and length of tours of ruins, which are treeless and have no shade, or places that require hill-climbing.
I would probably stay in an agriturismo or wine estate outside of Taormina rather than right in it, or stay in Castelmora if you want the sea views, mainly to avoid the crowded, supertouristy feel of tiny Taormina, but also to eat better food and experience something of rural Sicily.
My first trip to Sicily I did almost exactly what you are doing, which is that I saw Monreale but otherwise bypassed Palermo. Given that you are effectively spending no time at all in Palermo , and sinice the airport is far out of town in the general direction of Erice, consider staying outside of Palermo entirely in a Sicilian hilltown or agriturismo, where you can get some true home cooking. If you end up Palermo, one night skip its restaurants in favor of booking a meal with Home Food. Palermo has a tremendous tradition of super-local recipes, but many of its upper end restaurants in the center are internationalized and cater to foreign tastes and business clientele. The food is tasty, but it is not unique. So try to get someplace extremely old-fashioned (Piccolo Napoli) or book Home Food.
But I would give serious consideration to skipping Palermo proper and getting a glimpse of the outlying farms or the seaside away from Palermo. Much of the fun of the city is its morning markets and its unique array of architecture from several eras alongside its modern, upscale neighborhoods, and it is just not possible to get an orientation of that in 2 hours.
I would probably stay in an agriturismo or wine estate outside of Taormina rather than right in it, or stay in Castelmora if you want the sea views, mainly to avoid the crowded, supertouristy feel of tiny Taormina, but also to eat better food and experience something of rural Sicily.
My first trip to Sicily I did almost exactly what you are doing, which is that I saw Monreale but otherwise bypassed Palermo. Given that you are effectively spending no time at all in Palermo , and sinice the airport is far out of town in the general direction of Erice, consider staying outside of Palermo entirely in a Sicilian hilltown or agriturismo, where you can get some true home cooking. If you end up Palermo, one night skip its restaurants in favor of booking a meal with Home Food. Palermo has a tremendous tradition of super-local recipes, but many of its upper end restaurants in the center are internationalized and cater to foreign tastes and business clientele. The food is tasty, but it is not unique. So try to get someplace extremely old-fashioned (Piccolo Napoli) or book Home Food.
But I would give serious consideration to skipping Palermo proper and getting a glimpse of the outlying farms or the seaside away from Palermo. Much of the fun of the city is its morning markets and its unique array of architecture from several eras alongside its modern, upscale neighborhoods, and it is just not possible to get an orientation of that in 2 hours.
Jun 14th, 2014, 08:29 AM
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Donnalee,
Why do you think you will never get back to Sicily? Why such a time constraint?
Perhaps my travel style is completely opposite yours, but I visited Sicily last spring for 3 1/2 weeks and it wasn't enough! I fully realized it would probably be my only chance to see Sicily, so I took the time to see all my priorities, drove myself, stayed in nice hotels and had nice meals. I certainly wouldn't call them "the best of". I even did use a private driver twice for transport when it made sense in time/value, but I would rather stay longer and cut back on the "nicest" hotels in order to do so!
You are going to stay in Ortigia, but won't have any time to see and enjoy Ortigia. A real shame. Personally, I enjoyed the temples/theaters/scenery at Selinute and Segesta much much more than the Arch Park in Syracusa. The Syracusa park was overrun with hoards of visitors and tour buses, tacky trinket sellers central market right across the street. I couldn't get out fast enough.
The Syracuse Arch museum itself is fantastic, no crowds and priceless treasures, but it sounds like you do not plan to visit?
I would skip Taormina altogether and add a night to Ortigia. See Villa Romana definitely, perhaps from Ortigia.
Buona fortuna
Why do you think you will never get back to Sicily? Why such a time constraint?
Perhaps my travel style is completely opposite yours, but I visited Sicily last spring for 3 1/2 weeks and it wasn't enough! I fully realized it would probably be my only chance to see Sicily, so I took the time to see all my priorities, drove myself, stayed in nice hotels and had nice meals. I certainly wouldn't call them "the best of". I even did use a private driver twice for transport when it made sense in time/value, but I would rather stay longer and cut back on the "nicest" hotels in order to do so!
You are going to stay in Ortigia, but won't have any time to see and enjoy Ortigia. A real shame. Personally, I enjoyed the temples/theaters/scenery at Selinute and Segesta much much more than the Arch Park in Syracusa. The Syracusa park was overrun with hoards of visitors and tour buses, tacky trinket sellers central market right across the street. I couldn't get out fast enough.
The Syracuse Arch museum itself is fantastic, no crowds and priceless treasures, but it sounds like you do not plan to visit?
I would skip Taormina altogether and add a night to Ortigia. See Villa Romana definitely, perhaps from Ortigia.
Buona fortuna
Jun 14th, 2014, 09:55 AM
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Dayle, I don't get your post.
Why did YOU believe "it would probably be my only chance to see Sicily"? Why did you put YOURSELF under such a time constraint of only 3.5 weeks? Did you seriously think that was enough to see Sicily? Why didn't you stay in hostels and eat bread and cheese and stay for 3 months? Then you could have seen the Aeolian islands, Cefalu, Enna, the hilltowns and the wine country, Messina -- in short, you could have seen all the important sights of Sicily.
What is better about driving yourself than having a driver? Why shouldn't they have the best meals where they are staying? It is not that hard to find superior food in Sicily every night with some pre-planning. I would want to sample the best if I felt it might be only chance.
Why are you assuming the only obstacle to staying longer is money? There are lots of reasons many people can't spend extended time traveling or returning to places far from where they live.
You are trying to make it sound like these people are doing something foolish, something you would never do. But you did exactly what they are doing! Your travel "style" is exactly the same. You gave as much time as you could to seeing your priorities.
For what it's worth, I really enjoyed the archeological sights of Siracusa, and the museum wasn't open when I was there. Ortigia (which also has many tacky tourist shops) is a very tiny place, and if they arrive in the evening, they will be able to walk around the entire town by dinnertime.
Anyway, I am sure the OP appreciates all thoughts about other people's wish lists and tinkerings. But if they want to hire a driver, or stay in Taormina, or spend a week in Sicily and otherwise travel every year to South America, they should do it and not be quizzed as if they were doing something inadequate. What you did was inadequate by the same measure.
Why did YOU believe "it would probably be my only chance to see Sicily"? Why did you put YOURSELF under such a time constraint of only 3.5 weeks? Did you seriously think that was enough to see Sicily? Why didn't you stay in hostels and eat bread and cheese and stay for 3 months? Then you could have seen the Aeolian islands, Cefalu, Enna, the hilltowns and the wine country, Messina -- in short, you could have seen all the important sights of Sicily.
What is better about driving yourself than having a driver? Why shouldn't they have the best meals where they are staying? It is not that hard to find superior food in Sicily every night with some pre-planning. I would want to sample the best if I felt it might be only chance.
Why are you assuming the only obstacle to staying longer is money? There are lots of reasons many people can't spend extended time traveling or returning to places far from where they live.
You are trying to make it sound like these people are doing something foolish, something you would never do. But you did exactly what they are doing! Your travel "style" is exactly the same. You gave as much time as you could to seeing your priorities.
For what it's worth, I really enjoyed the archeological sights of Siracusa, and the museum wasn't open when I was there. Ortigia (which also has many tacky tourist shops) is a very tiny place, and if they arrive in the evening, they will be able to walk around the entire town by dinnertime.
Anyway, I am sure the OP appreciates all thoughts about other people's wish lists and tinkerings. But if they want to hire a driver, or stay in Taormina, or spend a week in Sicily and otherwise travel every year to South America, they should do it and not be quizzed as if they were doing something inadequate. What you did was inadequate by the same measure.
Jun 14th, 2014, 12:28 PM
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I can't say that this itinerary would make for a "perfect" week, but I'll leave that question aside and focus on what you are/are not covering. BTW, I haven't tried to work any of the timing out with any specificity -- I'm just making estimates based on my recollections of the time it took me to see things and travel between places.
I don't see much time in there for Ortygia. Personally, I would skip either Ragusa OR Noto to make sure you have enough time for it, or at least think about the timing so that you only visit a 2nd Baroque town if you have "finished" with Ortygia (which IMO deserves more than a quick walk).
I also have difficulty imagining the timing on Sunday -- visiting the Valley of the Temples in time to get to and enjoy the Cathedral at Monreale and still get to Palermo in time for a quick tour? (I assume your plan is to visit the Valley of the Temples on Sunday, as I can't imagine that you would have any time to do so after reaching Agrigento on Saturday.) I think this day is overly crunched. You might want to consider shifting the Cathedral at Monreale to your first priority on Monday, and then seeing whether you have time for both Erice and Segesta, or if not, make a choice at that point.
Also, I don't see any time in there for any of the interior spaces in Palermo itself, and there is a LOT there that is worth seeing IMO. The only way I can think of that you might be able to fit that in would be to drop the Thursday in Taormina/Mt. Etna. With only 1/2 day for Mt. Etna, I assume that you aren't planning to hike -- just to get up closer to it? If so, you could leave Taormina Thursday morning and maybe spend a bit of time getting a bit closer to Mt. Etna on the way to Siracusa. You might play around with what you could juggle to make that work. If you do consider an option like that, pay attention to what you would be trying to see on Sunday afternoon/evening and on Monday, as many things might be closed then. Oh, and also remember that many things will be closed for a VERY long midday siesta!
sandralist makes a very good point about the weather -- do be prepared for intense heat and, at the archeological sites, little if any shade.
I don't see much time in there for Ortygia. Personally, I would skip either Ragusa OR Noto to make sure you have enough time for it, or at least think about the timing so that you only visit a 2nd Baroque town if you have "finished" with Ortygia (which IMO deserves more than a quick walk).
I also have difficulty imagining the timing on Sunday -- visiting the Valley of the Temples in time to get to and enjoy the Cathedral at Monreale and still get to Palermo in time for a quick tour? (I assume your plan is to visit the Valley of the Temples on Sunday, as I can't imagine that you would have any time to do so after reaching Agrigento on Saturday.) I think this day is overly crunched. You might want to consider shifting the Cathedral at Monreale to your first priority on Monday, and then seeing whether you have time for both Erice and Segesta, or if not, make a choice at that point.
Also, I don't see any time in there for any of the interior spaces in Palermo itself, and there is a LOT there that is worth seeing IMO. The only way I can think of that you might be able to fit that in would be to drop the Thursday in Taormina/Mt. Etna. With only 1/2 day for Mt. Etna, I assume that you aren't planning to hike -- just to get up closer to it? If so, you could leave Taormina Thursday morning and maybe spend a bit of time getting a bit closer to Mt. Etna on the way to Siracusa. You might play around with what you could juggle to make that work. If you do consider an option like that, pay attention to what you would be trying to see on Sunday afternoon/evening and on Monday, as many things might be closed then. Oh, and also remember that many things will be closed for a VERY long midday siesta!
sandralist makes a very good point about the weather -- do be prepared for intense heat and, at the archeological sites, little if any shade.
Jun 14th, 2014, 01:29 PM
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I don't think Sicily is an easy destination to guarantee a perfect week.
Tuscany is easy. Easy going and on average a safe bet.
Personally, I'd say the highs in Sicily are better than anywhere in Italy. The food, the people, the untouched historical sites can be incredible.
However, there are downsides which can affect an "perfect week", some of these are diabolical.
Some areas show a total disregard to any planning regulation and it is fairly clear that the local governments have been corrupt for 150 years. These areas look like the poor areas of Rio.
The driving of the locals can be "eccentric" and we have had frequent brushes with death on the road. Finally, the island is the hottest area of Italy, last year temperatures were not too excessive but in August 40oC is far from unusual. This may be an issue for you.
BTW looking at your plan, it is far too ambitious. I would base yourself in Siracusa and enjoy the SE corner of the island with a day trip to Taormina.
Tuscany is easy. Easy going and on average a safe bet.
Personally, I'd say the highs in Sicily are better than anywhere in Italy. The food, the people, the untouched historical sites can be incredible.
However, there are downsides which can affect an "perfect week", some of these are diabolical.
Some areas show a total disregard to any planning regulation and it is fairly clear that the local governments have been corrupt for 150 years. These areas look like the poor areas of Rio.
The driving of the locals can be "eccentric" and we have had frequent brushes with death on the road. Finally, the island is the hottest area of Italy, last year temperatures were not too excessive but in August 40oC is far from unusual. This may be an issue for you.
BTW looking at your plan, it is far too ambitious. I would base yourself in Siracusa and enjoy the SE corner of the island with a day trip to Taormina.
Jun 14th, 2014, 01:35 PM
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(Thursday) 1/2 day excursion to Mt. Etna>
I'd do a whole day if going on your own or if the organized tour goes to the south side of Mt Etna - ascents on the north/northeast side I think are not nearly as dramatic as that from Philosopher's Tower and the cable car/4-wheel-drive to the top or however that is working now - anyway I think a much more classic view into the crater - and circling Mt Etna's base is great - either on the CircumEtna train or road paralleling it.
I'd do a whole day if going on your own or if the organized tour goes to the south side of Mt Etna - ascents on the north/northeast side I think are not nearly as dramatic as that from Philosopher's Tower and the cable car/4-wheel-drive to the top or however that is working now - anyway I think a much more classic view into the crater - and circling Mt Etna's base is great - either on the CircumEtna train or road paralleling it.
Jun 18th, 2014, 04:17 AM
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Thank you all so much for your comments/assistance. I appreciate that everyone has their own version of the "perfect vacation" and ours may not be appealing to others, "...but your emails helped me rethink a few things on our otherwise aggressive itinerary. And the one thing you should know, because we'll have one private driver with us the entire week, we can change, eliminate or add anything to our itinerary we want as we go along, so long as we make it to the hotels at night!
After reading all of your helpful emails, I think I should probably skip either Noto or Ragusa. If I had to choose just one, any thoughts?
Also, since we're not really "hikers" and would not be participating in the hike up Mt. Etna, (just appreciate the natural beauty) would you choose more time to visit and see Syracuse that second day in Taormina (and the museum in Syracuse) vs the Mt Etna 1/2 day excursion?
I have lived in large cities my whole life (NYC, LA, etc) so I love the idea of staying at smaller, more quaint villages to get a real feel for the area, however, I notice the car service that will be driving us really pushed me back on changing Palermo as our base those 2 nights for some reason. I actually suggested Celafu, or asked for an other, charming smaller town consideration, but they basically kept saying "no" as that would be adding more miles/drive time.
So based on those last 2 days and where we want to visit (we'll be coming from Agrigento to visit Monreale and Palermo, and the next day visit Erice and Segesta) is there another town any of you would suggest we stay those last 2 nights instead of Palermo?
I appreciate all of your thoughts, and look forward to your input!
After reading all of your helpful emails, I think I should probably skip either Noto or Ragusa. If I had to choose just one, any thoughts?
Also, since we're not really "hikers" and would not be participating in the hike up Mt. Etna, (just appreciate the natural beauty) would you choose more time to visit and see Syracuse that second day in Taormina (and the museum in Syracuse) vs the Mt Etna 1/2 day excursion?
I have lived in large cities my whole life (NYC, LA, etc) so I love the idea of staying at smaller, more quaint villages to get a real feel for the area, however, I notice the car service that will be driving us really pushed me back on changing Palermo as our base those 2 nights for some reason. I actually suggested Celafu, or asked for an other, charming smaller town consideration, but they basically kept saying "no" as that would be adding more miles/drive time.
So based on those last 2 days and where we want to visit (we'll be coming from Agrigento to visit Monreale and Palermo, and the next day visit Erice and Segesta) is there another town any of you would suggest we stay those last 2 nights instead of Palermo?
I appreciate all of your thoughts, and look forward to your input!
Jun 18th, 2014, 04:35 AM
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I wanted to thank you for helping Dayle understand, the purpose of this forum is not to question others itinerary time frames (surely, if I could stay longer than a week, I would!) or reasons why they won't likely get back some where (I may have health issues I don't wish to discuss) but rather, the purpose for these forums is to help others arrive at an even better vacation/trip when going to an unknown destination...just as you and many others in this forum have done for me with your valuable input and comments. Thank you so much!
Jun 18th, 2014, 05:30 AM
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Here is a sneak preview of Sicily. BTW, you will love the views from G. H. Timeo. See the flower vases with Etna in the background:
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=3828
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/show...y.php?cat=3828
Jun 18th, 2014, 06:40 AM
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"the car service that will be driving us really pushed me back on changing Palermo as our base those 2 nights for some reason" -- If you choose to spend the last day in Palermo, you won't need the car service any more, so you could just let them go. It is easy to get to the airport on your own -- there is a bus.
I think I already said that I think you should put more time in Ortygia and skip Mt. Etna.
I think I already said that I think you should put more time in Ortygia and skip Mt. Etna.
Jun 18th, 2014, 06:47 AM
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The beauty of Mt. Etna is from a distance. It is especially beautiful from Taormina in our experience. I agree that you should skip the trip to Mt. Etna to allow more time elsewhere - perhaps Palermo which we loved.
Jun 18th, 2014, 09:06 AM
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Hotel Villa Athena in Agrigento is very nice - we had room #103 which had an excellent view. The (smaller) chapel in the palace in Palermo is as impressive as the cathedral in Monreale and easier to get to if you are already in the city.
Jun 18th, 2014, 04:05 PM
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"The (smaller) chapel in the palace in Palermo is as impressive as the cathedral in Monreale" -- much as I enjoyed that chapel, I beg to differ: The Cathedrale in Monreale not only has extensive, stunning mosaics and lovely intarsia, but also a gorgeous cloister and decorative details on the doors that truly set it aside, IMO.
Jun 18th, 2014, 06:28 PM
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We were just there in May. We did all the trips you have listed. We did them every other day over 9 days. You'll be fine. Erice was amazing! Spend a.little time there. Segusta will be blazing hot. For the ruins --Go in the shop and buy a ticket to ride in the bus to the top of the town. Don't try to walk up. (In my humble opinion) ha The temple in Segusta is a short walk.
Sep 30th, 2014, 04:34 AM
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I just wanted to say I got back from my 6 day trip to Sicily and it truly was the most magical trip ever...and also the perfect amount of time in each location.
Having a private driver made this aggressive itinerary doable and stress free, so I would highly recommend anyone considering this, feel free to contact me as I'd be happy to put you in touch with the company I used. They were very reasonable compared to all the other quotes I got, and I'm happy to go over my exact itinerary which turned out to be sheer perfection!
I've been to Italy many times but this was my first visit to Sicily and I must say, it was one, if not THE best trips ever!!!
Having a private driver made this aggressive itinerary doable and stress free, so I would highly recommend anyone considering this, feel free to contact me as I'd be happy to put you in touch with the company I used. They were very reasonable compared to all the other quotes I got, and I'm happy to go over my exact itinerary which turned out to be sheer perfection!
I've been to Italy many times but this was my first visit to Sicily and I must say, it was one, if not THE best trips ever!!!
