From the NYT July 5, 2009
Reviewed and found to be very worth while. 3-course dinners from 30E.
Le Gaigne 12 rue Pecquay 4th
L'Epigramme 9 ru de l'Eperon 6th
Itinéraires 5 rue de Pontoise 5th
Les Papilles 30 rue Guy Lussac 5th
(This is a wine shop that also serves food - the author thinks that it is of 1* quality)
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The Paris Bistro
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Ira:
I've added Le Gaigne to my list of places close to our apartment in the Marais, where we're staying for a week in early Sept. Racine's in a nearby Passage is also on the list. It's a tough job to check out these places but somebody's got to do it.
I salute you, RJD. You are a true American Hero.

PS to my OP.

Yes, I know. The article is by "that" Bittman.