Change Forum
A long, lovely walk indeed.
Greetings beautiful Fodorites, DH and I arrived home safely last evening. I am going to try to type a little to you every day until I finish, it is my solemn vow. Restaurant reviews, my rambling observations and utmost admiration for our beloved Italy to follow.
Nine fabulous nights in spectacular Rome.
My third trip to Italy, DH’s second. I have been to Rome once before. The first thing I want to share with you is to stay in the city if you can; for us and all futures journeys, this is must. What a different experience, and how completely charming in comparison to my first trip. The difference was amazing. I really planned this trip to Rome because DH and I wanted to return to Italy and I thought it a shame if Rome was not part of it for his sake. The falling in love with it for me, was very unexpected.
I feel very indebted to our Fodorites, Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. When I did a text search for charming and quaint areas in the city center, I found a thread they all posted on. I had this vision and their description of the Via dei Coronari area of Piazza Navona was like a symphony to my ears. It was exactly what we wanted. So thank you precious Statia, gracie04, and tcreath. DH and I feel very grateful.
Staying in the city center as opposed to the outskirts provided me with an entirely different picture of Rome. While last time I liked Rome, very much in fact, this time I just fell in love with it.
During the first trip commuting every day to and from everything made Rome seem very big, quite unmanageable, very loud. And while I had an appreciation for all that Rome possesses, I felt overwhelmed. I was quite surprised to find how very walkable Rome really can be! How unbelievably quaint. I know for us, this was the magic.
I researched well what was important for us to see. If you remember for a while there I only craved restaurant planning and sitting in a piazza with my true love sipping on something delightful. And reading, lot and lots of reading, lol. Well my friends, there is nothing like emailing the Vatican and calling the Borghese to get you excited and kick you into another gear entirely. However I will say, if all you want to do is sit, sip, read and eat, there is strength in that and I applaud you.
Really the next significant thing I need to address is how much we love Schiphol. If you can, connect through Amsterdam.
So you know me, never a nod of the head on the plane, not a wink of the eye. DH is consistently asleep prior to our leaving the runway, but we love him and harbor no hostility. I think this time, let’s change it up a bit shall we, let’s depart at night. So we work all day, leave that night, all is on time, a blessing when you live in the frozen tundra of Minneapolis. Records lows of below zero without the wind chill are expected the day after departure, let’s face it kids, we really need to get out of Dodge, rapidly at that.
Arrive on time in Amsterdam. We have a bit (by a bit I mean the 4.5 hours when we booked have slowly changed into 6.5 hours) of a layover.
We walk, we eat, we remember all from our last visit to this wonderful airport. I am beginning to become, ummmm, slightly punchy; DH alert and oriented. Then paradise appears. A line up of lovely chaise loungers tucked away in a quiet little corner. DH and I look at each other and think, “Yes, sweet angels in heaven, yes!” There was no exchange of words for it was not required. All lined up like a pretty little chorus line were loungers for 6. I mean Lindsay Wagner could have been doing a Sleep Number commercial they were so pleasant. La Dolce Vita in all it’s glory.
At this point in time, I could still be convinced it was simply a mirage. Even the backdrop of glass behind our loungers had relaxing etchings of a tropical paradise. All that was missing is was the pool.
Delighted, I place my bottom down, and raise my feet. I think, this is nice. DH is out immediately. I myself, begin to feel relaxed and comfortable, none of my normal fidgeting and thrashing about. The moment occurred at that point in time that I may, dare I say it, be able to sleep????
Now, if I cannot sleep on a plane, nor a train, not a car or a boat, really who am I kidding that I am going to be able to sleep in a public place, and one as busy and loud as a airport, but I go with it. I retrieve my Sharper Image eye mask and think this is nice. I take it one step further and grab my travel soother sound machine (keeping the eye mask on of course as I dig in our carry-on.) I am able “in the dark” to turn it on, set it to “Rain - Volume 6” and don ear buds in their respective places.
I now am feeling quite sleepy, and when I feel myself slipping away, I wrap the leather strap of my “purchased for Italy trip” handbag and the strap of our carry on twice around my wrist and once around my index finger, of course to alert me if anyone plans to rob us. There is no wisdom in fatigue.
Later DH awakes and reaches into the carry-on, this brings me out of my peaceful slumber. So you see, my handy dandy alarm system worked, although I am quite certain any robbers would have just sliced right through our straps (I know, 40 years old, can you believe I did this, but I digress…)
Tickled pink was I to find I had slept for a glorious hour. A precious 60 full minutes and that my little travelers is what held me until Roma appeared. I was still feeling punchy and silly but well rested, so after I awake I begin to inform DH that I will wave over the pool service fellow and order us a round; I ask him to pass me the sunscreen; and declare that I might ask that kind lady to take a picture of us in our tropical paradise?
The deep infatuation with Schiphol continues.
Next installment: Our first bite and puffer jackets anyone?
The Enchanted April, Part Due : : Our long walk in lovely Roma
Recent Activity
View all Europe activity »
- 1 Where to stay in Switzerland
- 2 Salzburg vs Vienna vs small German village or for Christmas.
- 3 2weeks in Europe
- 4 travel w two sons 7/5 Monaco April any suggested side trips for 3 days
- 5 Switzerland - 16 nights in mid September 2012 - Itinerary Plan
- 6 Ireland trip help
- 7 Solo traveler in Paris with safety concerns
- 8 10 days Vienna to Salzburg, Munich, then Zurich - How much time in each?
- 9
The French riviera.- Cassis, St Tropez and Menton.
- 10 Edinburgh In March
- 11 Whats the difference between Golden Pass and regular routes?
- 12 Glacier Express options?
- 13
Much anticipated trip to London. Well worth the wait!
- 14 Three Weeks in Europe
- 15 Another Ireland Itinerary...advice?
- 16 Ischia vs. Rome vs.....
- 17 Please help w/ car rental from Paris...Orly? GdeL? Other?
- 18 Driving from Barcelona to Malaga
- 19 itinerary suggestions (2) days for central-southern coastal region of Italy
- 20 Anyone familiar with this London apartment rental?
- 21 2 weeks in North/Central Italy looking for good food, wine, culture, etc.
- 22
Hostels and cheap places to stay in greece august 2012
- 23 Getting to Herculaneum
- 24 Florence Hotels for 3 week stay
- 25 Southern England in August
Hello dear Tiff
This is a bright spot in an otherwise dreary day here in Austin. I love your trip reports, and this one is off to a great start! Lounging in the airport oasis -- gotta love you, sweetie!
When we made our 4th trip to Rome last spring, it was the first time we stayed in the city center as well (we had an apartment in the Pantheon area). I agree with you that it made a tremendous difference!
So now, with an (im)patient mind, I await your next installment!
Hi swisshiker!
. I can hardly wait!
Isn't it amazing the difference it can make!
Very good to 'see' you! I'll post again when I can, I am off to collect Miss Sophie now
Nine nights in Roma!--waiting for more details!
How lovely, another tiff report! I'm looking forward to hearing how Rome charmed you - I stayed in town (near the Termini) and found it too monumental for my taste, but it was very hot, too (in June).
Good morning dear Tiff!
No wonder when I woke up a few moments ago and opened the blinds I saw blue sky and sunshine for the first time in weeks! I just knew the morning was going to have a special surprise. And here you and the start of your Rome trip report are..special indeed!
Welcome home dear friend!
You know how I love Schipol Airport! I can just imagine you two in the lounge chairs sleeping with sweet dreams of Rome!
I can hardly wait for your next installment!
Lovely beginning. Can't wait for more!
Looking forward to more. We'll be in Rome for 8 nights in March....
Miss Sophie is home once more
We sure missed her! What a sweetheart she is all cuddled up against me right now.
LCBoniti ~ Many a post I have read of yours! You always have such great recommendations, thank you!
LoveItaly ~ You are such a dear! And I am thrilled for your sunshine and blue skies. DH and I saw in the news about the weather in CA, you were so in our thoughts. May the sunshine continue now, my friend. Has TRSW been around? I thought of him when I took pictures of three wonderful Italian puppies.
thursdaysd ~ I am sorry about your hot June experience. I absolutely wilt in hot weather and so I can relate. I know we would have not been able to walk as much were it scorching!
Hi ellenem ~ I remember you from my last enchanted Italy experience in Florence & Venice. If I recall correctly you were particularly hoping I was able to purchase my little dish.
Ok all, I will now begin putting together all our restaurant experiences, excited to share those with everyone. We ate well thanks to so many of you here!
Ciao for now...
Hi Kristina, we were posting at the same time. I have some great restaurants recs, sites we cherished and general information. How excited I am for you, we would go back tomorrow, if we could.
How can I properly address the importance of our meal planning without sounding obsessive. Would it cause you concern to know that it is necessary to number our walking map strategically placing the restaurant selections across the city. Perhaps alarm you to be aware that this is the first thing I plan??? I know, it’s our issue, but we are comfortable with that.
Rather than giving you a day by day of our journey, I am going to break it down into sections. And what to begin with? Why food, of course!
Osteria del Pegno
Vicolo di Montevecchio, 8
06 688 07 025 www.osteriadelpegno.com
This restaurant was perfection from beginning to end. My many thanks to SeaUrchin and so many others that recommended this wonderful establishment. They were closed during the first part of our stay in Rome but opened again two days before our departure.
The first thing you note upon entering is the beauty and extreme warmth. A large round flat basket of beautiful orange clementines. Rows of wine bottles scattered here and there. White pleasant candle light on each table countered by the glow of a huge under lit round light fixture above. The enticing aroma of a meal that will follow. It is everything you picture in your imaginary Italian dinner; a very romantic atmosphere. The service was excellent.
DH’s onion soup, which was among their specials, was the best he has every had. His prawns in white wine sauce tender and delicious. My Tagliatelle alla Norma was fabulous, homemade pasta, aubergines, and tomatoes all wrapped together to greet me. The dessert was, you know sometimes you have a dessert that you will never forget, ahhh haaa, it was one of those desserts. We ordered one of the chocolate ones, though it was difficult to decide between the two offered. It was almost as if our waiter was reading our minds, for what did he do but bring us what we ordered and then a sampler of the other chocolate dolce and a delicious apple tart. All were so delectable I am having a hard time typing on this keyboard and not just closing my eyes remembering.
I am certain this will be the longest of my reviews, but share I must!
Ooooooh one more thing - make a reservation. We saw five couples turned away just during the time we were there and two more as we were leaving.
Make your res and enjoy the splendor!
La Sagrestia
Via del Seminario, 89
06 67 97 584
This is a wonderful cozy little place. Excellent service. Many local residents present. Lovely stained glass doors at one end that I can only imagine they must open during warmer months. Mussels soup my DH adored. The risotto was very good. The pizza margherita was absolutely the best we have ever had anywhere. To die for. Very good house wine. Located by the Pantheon. If you are facing the Pantheon, it is the little street to the left, exactly parallel with the line of the front of it. Not to miss, not to miss.
Trattoria da Armando al Pantheon
Salita de’ Crescenzi, 31
06 68 80 30 34
Wonderful! Every bite wonderful. The zuppa had every vegetable you could imagine and was our favorite of the minestrones. Service was fantastic. All local businessman on their lunch. While we were there they had the kitchen open and I could see them preparing everyone’s meals. DH and I have this thing we do sometimes… we each describe what the other cannot see, we describe our “views”. This one was so much fun for me to describe to DH so he could visualize it. We really liked this little spot. The daughter of the owner was our server and she was a sweetheart, her English was very good and hearing this adult daughter call her father Poppa with such love, was precious and made me miss my own so much. A very cute Asian couple, who spoke no Italian and no English were at the table next to us and we were very touched when this sweet server went and got a book to assist them all in ordering process. I loved it there. This family run restaurant exuded heart and warmth everywhere.
Antica Taverna
Via Monte Giordondo, 13
66880153
DH’s meal was pretty good. My meal was ok. This place was fine. Would we go back, probably not. Too many other great places. I think it was the average service that killed it for us in this place. Now if the meal had been off the charts, we can deal with poor to average service, but it wasn’t even close. Just so-so, but it could have been just an off day.
Cantina del Vecchio
Via dei Coronari, 30 06 6867427
www.cantinadelvecchio.it
This was our first bite. They were very kind to take us in as it was late (2300). They prepared a wonderful meal for us. The wine was good, the prosecco delish. At the end of the meal, DH forgot that in the beginning he said we could not get one of the desserts anymore due to the time to prepare it and accidently ordered it and yet, he still prepared it for us even though we told him it was so not necessary, very quickly actually. Very gracious. Many locals. Very good.
Ristorante Tre Archi Loneta
Via dei Coronari
I wish I had the exact address and I am sorry, I do not.
If you are walking from Piazza Navona, once you reach Via dei Coronari, it is the first restaurant you come to on your right. It was just steps away from where we were staying.
A very nice gentleman took care of us. Delicious and hearty lentil soup. We enjoyed it here and would go back again.
Il Bacaro
Via degli Spagnoli, 27 06 6872554
http://ilbacaro.com/
This little hidden gem greets you with gorgeous roping vines everywhere. Very quaint. The young lady that served us spoke very good English and was a lot of fun. Just darling. I enjoyed ravioli with pecorino cheese and in wonderful pumpkin sauce and truffle, very rich but quite good . DH’s every bite of his delicious pasta with capers and olives in pomodoro was exactly what he wanted. Our darling waitress brought us each a sample of each other’s meals on a separate plate, it was very cute. And ironic because DH and I always share and sometimes even exchange plates, discreetly of course, half way through our meals so the other gets to sample. No exchanging needed here, heeeeee. We did not want to leave.
Lo Stregone
Piazza dei Coronari, 1
06 68 93 652
This place is a total mystery to us. We actually found it by mistake. I had forgotten my map and restaurant list, and only slightly remembered the name and general location. So we continued to stroll anyway, while looking for what I now know as ‘Le Streghe’ and also happens to be just down the street from this restaurant.
It is a huge establishment and if I can decipher the Italian on their business card, I believe they mainly do banquets and conferences. There food was fantastic. We ate here twice. But really the whole atmosphere was bizarre. A TV in the main eating area at a front table with the rabbit ears sticking up and the Mr. eating and reading his paper and watching a game show. While the Mrs. served us in the most proper and polite manner, she was just precious. Their vegetable antipasto was so succulent it made me want to go into the kitchen and beg them to show me just what they did with these simple vegetables. The pomodoro was the best we had in the city. The best.
Each time we were there, it was almost empty. Total mystery!!!!!!!
Le Streghe
Vicolo del Curato 13
And the mystery continues... We when got back to our room, I retrieved our map and this was the place that we had been looking for when we ended down at Lo Stregone. Once we did have dinner here, the description was so different from what we read. No lone candlelight as SeaUrchin mentioned. Just a bright loud place, and the food was our only bad meal. DH did not even finish his, it was inedible. And there were somany good reviews from so many guests that had been here previously, it was beyond us. There was only one other couple there. The owners had on this ‘boom box’ near the front door with a local news station on, very, very loud. (like one of our am stations with news here in the States) and the woman just kept standing by it and shaking her head and moaning. A very dramatic, and not to laugh, but we kinda were laughing on the inside because it was so not what we read at all, so not even close, in fact (laughing now) picture the exact opposite. We just looked at each and thought “are we in the right place???” But we were and checked the address again upon leaving. DH’s carne had so much gristle that he had to stop eating it. All in all, just not a good experience.
Ristorante Quirino
Via Delle Muratte, 84
06 679 41 058
This place was a nice surprise. We were over by the Trevi, and suddenly famished and gave it a shot. We were not expecting much because of the touristy area, but it was nice. If you are in a pinch, we liked it here. And the wonderful young server chased us down the street afterward because we had forgot our camera. Very kind of him, he was sweet.
Babington’s
Piazza di Spagna, 23
I adore tea. This wonderful tea room has been there forever and should not be missed for anyone such as I. Read the paper, enjoy your Earl Grey, purchase a little gift on your way out. Delightful.
Clothing, weather, outside seating warmed by heaters and the puffers
Tall boots with jeans tucked in were still all the rage just like two years ago. Our weather was simply beautiful, mostly between 55 and 60 degrees F each day we were there. A couple were lower 50’s. In the late afternoon, when sitting in our little cafes, outdoor heaters warmed us so we were able to take off our jackets. Our private terrace off our room was utilized every day, even the two cloudy ones. The off season still remains our favorite.
Puffer jacket, here, puffer jacket there, puffer puffer everywhere. And there is a reason. These little numbers are darling and quite practical. I was warm in mine, but not too warm. The fur lined hood dressed it up a bit, I am so glad I brought it. I was not alone. Many Italian women had them as well as we travelers, long or the shorter style. Perfect to layer with. DH’s outwear jacket was perfect too. It was a thin breezer that he could layer accordingly underneath day to day.
I have stated this before but will again. It is not necessary to seek out what I would refer to in the States as high end fine while you are in Italy, in order to eat well. Due to our occupations it is necessary for us to wear business attire regularly here at home. One of the nicest things there is that so many of the good eateries we have experiences are more casual. Comfortable and casual is key. It also makes it so much easier for packing.
One thing to note, while usually in our travels we have always avoided any restaurants that have ‘someone trying to pull you in’. I was surprised to see that almost all of the truly wonderful places we dined did this time, even Osteria del Pegno, did this. I don’t know if it was because it was the off season, and they just have more time to ‘hang’ outside, but that is what it felt like. It did not feel cheesy at all. No bad vibes. So please if you are traveling in the off season and witness this, do not let it deter you in the least.
Next installment: Oh the places you will go!
And, our little Residenza Canali
I'm enjoying your lovely Roma report, Tiff. Thanks for sharing and I'm glad you found the charm you were seeking.
Looking forward to the next installment.
Tiff ~ what a wonderful surprise! I love your reports. Looking forward to more.
Hey Statia, I am so glad you saw this, one never knows who will. We are very grateful to you. You were "with" us in the initial planning. Cheers to you!
Gomiki, sweet one! Heavens I miss you, how are you?
Tiff ~ I am well, thank you. Off to Amsterdam on Monday. But when I read your reports I always want to go where you just were
Tiff,
Great report! I am looking forward to the next part!
Sally
Heee, gomiki, Amsterdam on Monday??? Was it our chaise lounge experience that sold you, or did you have this adventure already planned???
Have a wonderful journey, friend, and I will look forward to your report!
Thanks Sally, I promise more soon!
Hi Tiff!
What a lovely and delightful surprise to open Fodors and find your trip report on this cold morning in Denver. I have enjoyed every word and cannot wait for the rest! Thank you so much for sharing your trip so beautifully, as you always do
-Jill
Welcome home Tiff! I'm so happy that the Via dei Coronari area was everything you hoped it would be. Your descriptions are marvelous...I almost felt like I was back in Rome. At least until the phone on my desk rang and forced me to remember that I'm at work...
I can't wait to hear more!!
Tracy
Bookmarking. We leave in less than a month!
Tiff, after reading about your wonderful food selections, I have just informed DH that we are going out for Italian food for lunch.
I remember eating at La Sagrestia also. Very good indeed!
Glad your puffy coat kept you warm enough!
Tiff, I thought you stayed at the Residenza Canali! Wasn't it great? We were there last February, and we'll definitely stay there again when we go back to Rome.
I'm enjoying your report.
t
Well dear Tiff, you sure have made me "Romesick", lol.
And I am now craving wonderful cooked Italian food. No shock that however as I always am but reading about the various restaurants you two enjoyed..well lets just say the dinner I planned for tonight suddenly does not seem that interesting to me, lol.
I am so glad that your beautiful jacket worked so well for you. And actually the weather seems as though it was nicer than I thought it would be. Wonderful!!
Tiff,
Mille grazie for the lovely trip report. I think you put 10 pounds on me just by reading about your wonderful meals.....It's going to be a long time before I get to visit bella Roma again, so do continue!
Tiff-
Thanks so much for posting the restaurant recs.
You are not alone in your obsessive restaurant planning. For me (a former chef) travel is "all about the food".
I have been planning my trip for almost a year and have created my own Google Map with tons of restaurants pinned to it. I'm particularly excited by your rec for Osteria del Pegno because it will be right in "our" neighborhood!
Oh my, what has happened to my Le Streghe? Boom box? Garishly lit? Egads!! I know the family was planning on coming to Los Angeles in January so maybe they were out of town and the staff took over? It gives me pause, that is for sure.
Glad you liked O del Pegno though, that is a relief. I love the soup at Tres Archi too, just the ticket for a cold evening or lunch.
Love your style and I can't wait to read more!
SeaUrchin, believe me I wish I knew, you were there with us though, DH even knows you "by name" now, lol. I am sure you are right, I imagine the owners were on holiday.
Kristina and StLgrrl ~ please let me know if you have any specific questions. You are going to have such a delightful time!
Hi Dayle, oh hon, any pounds you put on my reading I certainly walked off for you in Rome, heeee, so no worries now!
LoveItaly ~ I so love that expression: Romesick. Sweetie, I wish you had been there with us, you were in our hearts!
Hi Samsaf, Yes, wasn't it great, and the location was fab! Will you get to go back anytime soon?
swisshiker, heeee, how was that lunch? La Sagrestia was so good!
My lil TexasAggie ~ SO good to see you too. And so nice to know you now as Jill! I have thought of you so much. Best wishes to you.
Hi Tracy ~ We owe you much. You never know when something you post to someone will be read and valued by someone else;will completely affect their entire journey. DH and I are quite grateful and it makes us happy that you saw this thread and know of our appreciation.
Tell DH that Seaurchin is sorry!
My non-Fodorite friends give me "the look" when I tell them something like: "Screwy Louie" loves this place!!
Hmmm, alrighty then!
Tiff, you are too sweet! I love traveling, obviously, and it's so nice when your tip or advice can be so useful to someone else. I cherish fodors for this reason...I've had so many wonderful trips that I don't think I would have gone on had it not been for the posts I've read on fodors. Your post certainly makes me crave Rome!
Tracy
Hi Tiff
I am really enjoying your report, it makes me wish I was in Rome right now!
I know what you mean about Lo Stregone. When I first walked in and saw how big it was, plus the buffet, I thought, this can't be good. But it was late and we were hungry so we gave it a go. I was surprised that the food was so good. The waitress was very nice, too, and helped me with my Italian.
I'm sorry to hear about Le Streghe. That was one of my favorite meals besides del Pegno, and it was so cozy and welcoming. I wonder if they have new owners?
Can't wait to read more about your trip.
Johanna
Tiff, I'm really enjoying your report. You enjoyed a few of my favorites, del Pegno, Il Bacaro & Armando al Pantheon. I can't wait to go to all of them soon, as I leave for Rome in a couple weeks. Your report is making me even more anxious that I already was!
Tiff, yes, we thought the location was perfect. I'd love to go back soon, but this year we're headed to Paris (in October) -- for our first trip there!
Thanks for all the great info, Tiff. You have bravely tried and reviewed a couple of restaurants I looked into from the street a few months ago wondering whether they would be good. Now they are on the list for the next trip. Looks like there's no shortage of Romaholics on this board!
Wow, Tiff, I don't usually seriously read the restaurant reviews, but yours are so well written I feel I am there with you. Yummy!
Not to be greedy but, more please . . .
Hi Tiff,
Great report so far. Sounds like you and Mr Tiff had a great time. I would love to see a copy of the puppies!! I am happy you got your camera back. It would have sucked to lose it.
I lok forward to more.
Tom
Topping for those that haven't seen this delightful trip report. And also as a reminder to our Tiff we are waiting to hear more
Hi dear LoveItaly! I just got home from dreaded work and am about to post more, stay tuned.
Hey Tom, oh good, I was so hoping you saw about our canine friends. How is your Diablo? Unfortunately I am still old school and use.... film LOL, so I cannot upload anything.
LCBoniti ~ describing Italian cuisine is such a slam dunk, lol, you give me too much credit. I still feel like I need to give further details on those Pegno desserts, I thought about it as I was falling asleep last night. Just remember to make certain you order the two chocolate ones everyone! In one's life all should be able to experience this extreme pleasure!!!!!
GianniFL ~ thanks, we do try to brave a couple new ones, that way we can share a new review, nice to find a hidden little gem.
SamsAF ~ Paris!! Yes! I can't wait to read about your experiences.
Ahhhh, my lil SusanP, good to see you! Never do I place a pen in a carry on without thinking of you!
gracie ~ Did you try the vegetables when you were at Lo Stregone? I would give anything to know just what they did with them, lol, I mean they were just veges.... we may have to put Kristina on the case while she is out there!!!!! And also to find out how they make their pomodoro.
Tracy ~ I always think of you when someone asks about Rome because I know how much you love it!
Oh but SeaUrchin, DH also knows you are responsible for steering us to Pegno! No apologies necessary.
...Ok, I am about to post more now, I hope my typos have not been too plentiful, I still feel a little jetlaggy...
Residenza Canali ai Coronari
Via dei Tre Archi, 13 - 0039 0645439416 www.residenzacanali.com
It was quite perfect for us. Excellent, excellent location, as I mentioned previously the location was just ideal. Canali is clean and comfortable. We had Room 1 with a very large terrace. Our dear Fodorites, SeaUrchin, Lexma90, and sandi_travelnut assisted me when selecting a room, and it was perfect. We used the terrace every day, even on the two cloudy days I was out there because it was humid and not chilly, I hopefully captured some misty photos. One day is was a bit windy, but luckily the terrace is L shaped and we just sat on the side where the wind was blocked. We loved having this terrace. All the roof top views, flowers, can you imagine flowers in January? Just spectacular.
Room 1 as promised was extremely quiet. The staff very accommodating and eager to please. One morning at breakfast, a gentleman asked for hot chocolate for his children. There was none. The following morning, I noted there was hot chocolate there for the kidlets.
Very nice breakfasts, with fresh items that were replenished as soon as needed. No need left unmet.
Room 1 had lovely hardwood floors, desk, and armoire. The bed was firm, a little too firm for us but typical by European standards. Functional hair dryer (I brought my own but tried theirs so that I may include commentary in this report, it had good power, next time I would not bring mine) a minifridge, safe, the usual.
We were very happy with our room choice. Had we been on a lower floor, I do believe it would have been more noisy. The beautiful marble staircase did not absorb sound and I think between that and the proximity of the front desk noise it would have been an issue for us. I think if you are not a light sleeper, and not bothered by noise you would be fine.
There is a computer with internet in the common area that also had two comfortable wingback chairs and a sofa. Fresh flowers and green plants everywhere, cozy.
The only negatives I can think of try as I might…. Our room only had a small shower stall, no tub, I was fully aware of this when I booked, not a huge deal. And for some, not having a lift would be an issue, we did not mind the stairs in the least, it was a good little bit of cardio after all those carbs, lol.
Basking in the Sites
It was a gorgeous walk, each and every day. We walked everywhere. All over Rome except to the Borghese, that day we took a cab. You don’t feel like your walking, it is floating. Floating down a little vicolo. Strolling over to your favorite piazza. You never become weary until you stop much much later and exhaustion finally finds you and the views never end.
One thing I continually noticed was the affection everywhere, the care of the walkers with their significant others. Local residents and travelers alike, everyone was arm in arm, hand in hand. Does Rome bring it out in you? Is it natural with the cobblestones? Was it due to the cooler weather? It was heart warming.
DH and I always begin our daily journeys after delicious nourishment at our Residenza, is there anything better than waking in Italy? We walk a different way each day. On the first day it is to Piazza Navona and we followed the length of her. Beautiful and quiet as it was so early still. We wouldn’t trade our off season journeys for anything and imagine how busy it is during the warmer months. We would spend much time here over the next eight days. Five of the next eight nights we sit outside in our Bar Navona and people watch and visit and giggle and sip. The Fountain of Neptune is before us and the gentle rhythm of the water relaxes and soothes. It becomes one of our traditions and we look forward to it every evening. We watch the artists showing their work. There is a sweet little white dog that belongs to one of them. We listen to the music.
Santa Maria sopra Minerva led us to her. This beautiful Gothic church, they say the only one in Rome. We feel very at peace here and light candles for some special loved ones. We say a prayer near St. Catherine of Siena.
As we leave I get excited again because I know DH is about to see the Pantheon, one of my favorite spots in Rome. By now Piazza della Rotunda is humming. As we walk into the Pantheon, I am reminded of the last time I was here, it was pouring rain, quite magical in the Pantheon. The strong details of the structure make you unable to take your eyes from above. Truly amazing.
I think what was my favorite part of our days in Rome was the mix of visiting places of interest to us, wandering, dining and just sitting in the piazzas taking it all in. Pure soaking and storing. Storing for as long as possible. Absorbing enough until our next journey.
One other thing after a couple days I realized it was ‘ok’ to leave a bit of food on my plate if I was full. Normally here, when I am full I simply stop eating. But in Italy, it is all sooooo good and you know you will not be able to be back soon, so in the first couple days we overstuffed a titch, lol, it just seemed so sinful to actually leave any delicious morsel on our plates. The flavors all mingling together with such blissful harmony! One night back at the Residenza, DH yelped to me, “Honeyyyyyy, will you me roll and over and push me back out to sea??????” LOL, I couldn’t stop laughing, it was exactly how I felt.
The next day I can barely contain my excitement because I know that soon I will be near the work of Artemesia Gentileschi. A dear friend gave me the book The Passion of Artemesia and last year when I finally had a moment to read it on a weekend up to the North Shore, I could not put it down. It is such a remarkable work of historical fiction. Artemesia was the first woman was the first to be elected to the Accademia in Florence. She had a very difficult beginning as a young woman after she was raped by her painting instructor while living in Rome. Her father did not support her as she testified in papal court against her instructor. Afterwards the public scorn was so horrific it required her to seek an arranged marriage just to get out of Rome and find some peace. Her spirit and survival were very inspirational to me as I read of her triumph over such an awful life experience.
When I knew we were about to travel to Rome, I researched to see if any of her work was presently in Rome, I found that two of her pieces were at the Spada Gallery. Madonna and Child, 1609 and Woman Playing a Lute, 1612. They were beautiful. The color and the draping of the fabrics were extraordinary. The Madonna and Child was so lovely. What I didn’t know in advance is that in the Spada there was also a work by her father, who was also a great artist. Later in her life, she was able to find forgiveness for her father’s lack of support during a time when she needed him most and they spent time together. Forgiveness is timeless and such a gift.
Next installment: More soaking, more sights & a wee bit of shopping for the Signora
Lovely installment Tiff. I am going to look for that book you mentioned about Artemesia Gentileschi!
:::warning for TexasAggie, you will ignore all you know, call in sick for work and not put it down until you finish:::
It is -7 degrees here right now. Negative seven without the wind chill, that brings us lower, -22 with the wind.
We have any expected high of O, ZERO.
By 8pm they expect it to be -3.
Romesick, Romesick, Romesick
Tiff,
Is this weather ridiculous or what? When the windchill hit -40F last night I could not believe it.
So glad you enjoyed Rome. We have enjoyed a meal at Trattoria da Armando al Pantheon as well.
We did not know we would be in Rome again so soon, but Tim's brother has decided on a destination wedding on the Amalfi Coast so we will be using some of your advice in June!
As always, loving your report.
Stay warm!
Liz
This is so much fun for me, all my pals from the first Enchanted April, Part Uno are back to say hello. Liz it is so nice to see you. The weather is completely inconceivable!
Stay warm my friend, think of Amalfi!!!! What a good BIL he is!
Oh my goodness: -40?!?!
BRRRR!!! Please, both of you, stay warm and bundled up and keep blankets in your car if you must get out!
Dearest Tiff, I could never survive in your weather, lol. You would have to bundle me up in furs from head to foot!
Your apartment website looks wonderful! And you two obviously enjoy Rome the way we always did.
BTW, a hotel that we enjoyed ages ago now has a reputation of being one of the dirtiest in Rome. How sad. Well I have lovely memories of it anyway but I sure wouldn't stay there again.
ttt
Tiff,
I know you are stillold school when it comes to photography BUT, when you have the film developed, also have them put it on a CD. That way you can share with all of us.
Diablo is doing just fine. He is his same ole spazzy self. Just 2 more months and he gets his yearly buzz cut.
Now more of your report please.
Tom
LoveItaly, is is hysterical when today, at 9 degrees, it actually felt warm, LOL.
Tom, right, I can request that can't I? Thanks for reminding me!
...More to post in a sec...
Distractions While Strolling
Today, on our daily wander, it is unfortunate that I must inform you I was bit by a Handbag Bug. I fear to tell you my friends, there was no ointment to cure this ailment. I thought I was immune. Our first encounter was when I saw, what we will all forever refer to as the beauty, in the shop window. My gait immediately changed to a sudden stop. So lovely was the beauty there on the cold mannequin. It was calling out to me, in fact begging. I entered the shop, after looking at the price, I thought it prudent to walk away and think about it. My first mistake (as I still shake my head) good grief, must have been the jetlag clouding my judgment. My second mistake occurred when I did not try to go back see to the beauty for two days.
As we approached the little shop again, 48 hours after the initial encounter, it was pathetic, my heart rate even went up a bit, what was wrong with me??? I could smell the Italian leather, and feel the softness of the merino wool. In my mind I saw the beauty accompanying me and knew what outfits I would wear her with. It was palpable and I wasn’t even in the little shop yet. Closer, closer, closer until I was in front of the window. Next? An out loud gasp for all to hear echoing throughout the streets of Rome. Can you hear it? I turned and looked at DH. The beauty was gone, the cold lonely mannequin’s shoulder now empty. I went in to the shop, the same woman as the first time, looked at me with such despair for she knew. She spoke no English but her face said it all, it was no more. The beauty was with another. She pointed at other beauties. The heart wants what the heart wants, do you find me so fickle that I could just replace this love with another? So soon? Me, just a ridiculous American girl???
Poor, poor DH. His sweet face and turned down frown felt for me. Genuine sadness came across this man’s face. He quite did not know how to comfort for he had never seen his DW like this before. While we walked away, single file as not to be hit by traffic, I would turn my head to him and do “the frown”. But it actually began to make me laugh, because when I did this, his face was so adorable it made me smile and laugh out loud. No girlfriend could have been more supportive and slowly with each step, the pain ended.
Atop the Spanish Steps I entered the lovely Ginori Shop. I first became acquainted with Richard Ginori eight years ago when I purchased an antique tea cup in Florence. This time my Ginori purchase would be for my dear friend. I arrive and the shop has so many lovely delicates. I search and search, locating the perfect one for my friend and buy it. I think of you all because the wrapping of it is such a process that it reminds me of when I purchased my little dish in Venice and told you all about it. The pride the shop owners take in wrapping presents and in their packaging to make it “just so” for you is such a process in itself that it truly adds to the excitement.
Borghese and Canova
I love sculpture and have longed (and longed and longed) to see Bernini’s Apollo and Daphne. Sometimes I think I love sculpture most of all. You know how sometimes you build something up so much before you see it… well this sculpture exceeded all my expectations. It was exquisite. What always amazes me about sculpture is when they possess minuscule details and the longer you capture them with your eyes, the more them become real. Bernini was 24 when he began this masterpiece. 24! The obvious brilliance of Daphne’s transformation into the Laurel tree is beyond words, but even the simple detail of Apollo’s cloak flying behind him, you can feel the movement, you feel the breeze fly past you. I was utterly fascinated. Anytime I adore a piece this much, I always come back to them at the end and say goodbye, heee. DH knew we would be returning to say our farewells before departing.
And then as if all of these Borghese treasures were not enough, we are allowed introductions with Canova as well. What a treat. Paolina in all her confident glory, saying to us all, “yes, yes, this is me, get over it already.” She was just so relaxed and sassy. My beautiful Three Graces, all fabulous and so intoxicating. I was telling one of my friends after we returned home that as I admired one of Canova’s statues I realized quickly that I had visited with her once before, eight years ago while I was in Florence. I thought, “I know you!” and sure enough, I looked down at her place card, why she had traveled all the way down from the Pitti Palace to meet my DH. Gracious Venus.
Crossing the Tiber
Sunday morning our wandering finds us strolling over to Trastevere. This day was one of the big long walk days. It was very interesting to be in a more residential area. Quietly we step into Santa Maria’s. We are very quiet because they are holding Mass and we wish not to disturb. I would normally not have done this but many local residents were entering at the same time and I did not feel that it was disrespectful for us to join them. We sit in the back and say a prayer. Father is in the middle of his homily and although the Mass is in Italian it holds much meaning for us. Because we are familiar with the Order of Mass, we know the congregation is now professing their faith with the Nicene Creed. I whisper it in English to myself. Next, everyone now is in the middle of the prayer of the faithful and when they say it in Italian, I look at my DH and whisper “Lord, hear our pray.” It was very spiritual and surreal that even though the language was different we knew what was happening and felt what was happening. Even seated in the back, we can see the mosaics in the sunlight from afar; we slip away respectfully and unnoticed as the residents of Trastevere continue to worship.
Next installment: My DH, my gladiator
<<Romesick, Romesick, Romesick>>
I love it!
Tiff,
It's a sad day when a temperature of 9 F feels warm, but that is surely what happened to me this morning.
I absolutely loved your description of Apollo and Daphne. It is the most wonderful piece of art, or really anything, quite frankly, that I have ever seen. It was amazing. I also had to stop back to say "goodbye." Unfortunately, I don't think I'll have time to revisit it on our next trip.
Liz
Lovely dear Tiff. And I knew you would fall in love with the Borghese Gallery! Stay warm!
Hi Tiff!
What a delightful and engaging trip report--you have a wonderful way with words! Look forward to reading more!
May the wonderful memories of your trip help keep you warm!
Ah yes, the sculptures that draw you into their minds, their lives, and their passion! To think from a slab of marble came such exquisite beauty.
For those needing a glimpse of these treasures, click here:
Pauline Bonaparte (Canova)
http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/epaolinab.htm
Apollo and Daphne (Bernini)
http://www.galleriaborghese.it/borghese/en/edafne.htm
My next step tonight is to order "The Passion of Artemesia" from Amazon. Thank you for the recommendation, Tiff.
I will delight in this report over the weekend.
Thank goodness for FF R and R, or I would have missed this jewel compeletly. How wonderful to read about your visit with your DH and the reunion with Miss Sophie. A delight for a cold winter day here in Pinnacle. Thank you for posting, dear friend. Such a pleasure to see you on the boards.
dearest Cmcfong ~ lil Miss Sophie sends her love to you and your six-pack. How are you all? There are not enough ways to tell you how much I miss you and not being able to be around as much as before. Please know I think of you often. Sophie would just warm your heart if she was with you in Pinnacle right now, she is such a little monkey and our treasure.
Hi marigross, let me know if you have any questions! Glad you stopped by, have a good weekend.
Swisshiker ~ thanks for posting those links! Enjoy TPOA. I hope you love it as much as I did. I really think you will.
Oh my AnnMarie ~ hello to you sweetheart. I thought of you a couple times while typing this report and wondered if you would be by. I know how much you love Italy. Hugs to you.
Sweet LoveItaly ~ 26 degrees and holding! I cannot thank you for telling us about the Canova exhibit at the Borghese. It made us look forward to our visit all the more!
Liz sweets, Looks like we will be above zero for the next few days, yippee!
SusanP ~ I always think of LoveItaly when I say (or type) that!
More soon everyone, probably tomorrow. I hope my thoughts have not been too random and fragmented. Work has been crazy busy and by the time I get home to you all, I am a bit loopy.
What a wonderful antidote for a recent (not to be directly referenced) whiny trip report on Rome. Thank you so much for the memories. I smell something wonderful cooking in my kitchen... or is it my imagination?
Hi Tiff, I hope you and "Mr Tiff" have a relaxing time at home this weekend. I am always loopy too when arriving home from Italy. I never have had jetlag when arriving in Italy but oh my, I am like the walking dead for a few days when I have returned home. Hugs dear friend.
Hi Jean, thanks for posting. I don't know, I may begin to whine a little that I am here freezing and not there basking anymore, heeee.
My sweet friend, LoveItaly ~ You always understand, thank you
:::More to follow:::
Optimism
One evening before dinner, I looked at my sweetie and sadly informed him that we only had three full days left in Rome. Without pause, he explained to me that if I looked at the numerical totals in “meals” and not “days” we have 13 more Italian dining experiences in our future. Utter brilliance I am married to, no?
Il Colosseo ed il Foro
Is there anything more enjoyable than watching the man you love see the Colosseum and Forum for the first time. He stands up a little straighter, the shoulders become a little more broad. The chin… the chin now is slightly turned upward. It fills my soul with happiness as I watch him. He doesn‘t know I am watching. As we walk I realize silently it is no longer floating as it has been for days, it has more presence than our usual stroll. It has meaning; it is a cadence. I try to stifle my laughter as I apply a little blistex because when I ask him if he wants some, he replies, “Men don’t apply blistex in the Colosseum” and winks at me. He is beyond me, this enormous structure has transcended him though time and he now walks with those who were forced into mortal combat. He is adorable and masculine all at the same time. I love him.
The MapEasy’s Guidemap to Rome was a great map to tote around, especially for the Forum. It’s like a guidebook and map all in one. It’s waterproof and tear resistant, however it is not Tiff resistant, lol. Before we left for Rome, I cut it up into sections and used it as a resource on days when I knew we wanted a little more info with us, such as with the Forum. It really worked out well. I liked having it in smaller sections. I think using a couple different map sources really worked for us. Look around see what works best for you. To have something small and easy to glance at again and again is what is key for us.
A Little More Shopping
De Sanctis
Piazza di Pietra, 24
Tel 06 68806810
www.desanctis1890.com
I adored this little ceramic store and if you love ceramics and local artists as much as I do, this small shop packed with much talent is a must. I only bought a smaller hand painted ceramic wine stopper but it is not all I wanted to buy, heeeee. They ship all over the world and all I could think of was my Fodorite friends and who I should tell the next time I heard someone was looking for hand painted tiles for their new kitchen! Enjoy!
Le tele de Carlotta
Via dei Coronari, 228
Tel 066892585
Very, very close to where we were staying, this quaint little shop has beautifully crafted handmade items. I purchased two precious hand embroidered satchels. Excellent craftsmanship. Very tiny little shop that at the time held the owner, her daughter, a husband and I, along with a little staircase. (Can you see us all in this area no bigger than a breadbox) When the owner was packing up my purchases with care, she stated my DH could come in to, and I politely thanked her, knowing he would pass out from the small area and warmth if he entered, lol. Best to keep him where he is out on Coronari. I think of SeaUrchin and Statia and wonder if they have been in this cute little shop.
UtileFutile
Via del Governo Vecchio, 20A
Tel 06 68809488
www.utilefutilefashion.com (there is an option to click on the English version in upper right corner)
Most of what I had read showed Via dei Corso and Condotti for the best shopping, but we discovered this street and I loved it very much. More private shop owners and cute little shops, several that I popped into. The kind of street that you look forward to go to again and again to browse. And what I loved more is that I came across designers that I had not heard of before. Unique talent that was new to me. If that is your thing, you will love this store and this street. I purchased a lovely little handbag from this shop. Handmade in Italy, just like the beauty but I actually loved it more. It was smaller and more my size. A chocolate brown wool and darling little flower made of wool and leather hanging from it, the hardware was very unique, I really adore it. Allessandra Bacci is the designer, perhaps you have heard of her, but I had not. Really fabulous bags, and oh so very unique. Darling.
There is so much we discovered as a result of just wandering. Places that are not on maps. Sites that are hidden gems. Some may say to us, “Why just Rome for your entire nine nights” but for DH and I this is the main reason why. To marinate in this magical land allows us the opportunity to really see and I know that many of you understand that, too. So go, take it all in, move slowly arm in arm because you just don’t have to move fast. Our dear TexasAggie spoke of her Italy and said “Italy is balm for my soul.” I cannot tell you how those words spoke to my soul, Jill. It is balm. It soothes and saves in so many ways. You feel indebted.
Next installment: The skaters, the views and the spiritual peace of Vatican City
Tiff, I love the description of Mr. Tiff in the Colosseum. Rome (and all Italy, for that matter) definitely brings out the best in lovers . . .
I am so enjoying your descriptions of the essence of Rome. I often find I am at a loss for words when I try to explain why I love it so much, but you are doing a wonderful job.
Tiff I am really enjoying your report. We are traveling to Rome for four days, and taking a 12 day cruise Italy and Greece, and staying in Venice for two days. I may have the confirmation Monday for Residenza Canali in Rome, if not I have Hotel Golden. Are you familiar with Hotel Golden? In Venice although I have Hotel Metropole booked, I may have to cancel because it really is out of my price range at this dollar value. I also have Locanda ai Bareteri as an alternative at half the price. I have to decide today and cancel one. I would appreciate any help you or anyone else could give. Thank you
hi searaymim ~ I do not have any personal experience with the hotels you listed in Venice, but I just went to www.tripadvisor.com and Locanda ai Bareteri got very good reviews. Great location too. You are going to have such a wonderful time. The 12 day cruise of Greece and Italy made my mouth drop, it is going to be beautiful! I have always wanted to go to Greece.
Take a look at tripadvisor.com and see what you think, just place your hotels in the search box. Do what is comfortable for your budget. In Italy, you are so taken with what is there, all you need is something, clean, comfortable quiet and well located! In fact, in Italy we really prefer smaller accommodations. Did you email Canali? You could also call. I am sorry that I also have no experience with Hotel Golden. I just can't get over, 4 days in Rome, 12 days cruising Italy and Greece and then 2 in Venice. Perfection! Please let us know all about this trip, ok?!?
LCBoniti ~ Wwhat a sweetheart you are! I really appreciate it! Thank you very much.
Thanks Tiff. I appreciate your help. We are celebrating our 45th wedding anniversary on the cruise and we will be accompanied by our three sons and three grandsons, so I am really excited about this trip.
p.s. seayraymim, also when you are in Venice, you must have lunch or dinner at Tavernetta San Maurizio (San Marco 2619 – phone 041 5285240) If you like risotto, please order the "Vegetable Risotto for Two" it will melt in your mouth, the best I have ever had. Even if I was there by myself I would order this dish, LOL. This little tavern was the best find of dining experiences while in Venice. DH saw it and we just had a stroke of luck. All local residents dining, it was soooo good.
Click here for more details from our "first Enchanted April" trip which was to Florence and Venice two years ago, just scroll past the Florence part, Venice is at the end:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34758287
Best wishes to you, I am really excited for your adventure!
45 years. (deep sigh)
How glorious! This is going to be very special for all of you and will certainly add to the many memories you must already have together.
I would be more than pleased to answer any other questions you may have, please do not hesitate to ask!
I know I speak for all of us here when I say, Happiest of Anniversaries to the Searaymims!
Tiff, your report is amazing. You are a fantastic writer. I love your descriptions of Bernini's sculptures, and your statement on sculpture in general. I feel the same way! Also, the part on DH in the Colosseum is totally right on...must be a guy thing because my DH was the same way!!! So funny, he always says Rome is a manly man's city.
Glad you had a great time, you are making me want to go back to Italy pronto!
<<"You don’t feel like your walking, it is floating. Floating down a little vicolo. Strolling over to your favorite piazza. You never become weary until you stop much much later and exhaustion finally finds you and the views never end.>>
Tiff, that is SO well said. Thank you so much for your lovely report.
By the way, you KILLED me with those restaurant reviews -- my stomach is grumbling, my mouth is watering, and I can almost taste what you're describing. We will be in Rome in June, and I really appreciate all your reviews.
Thanks again,
Dina
Hi Dina, I will so look forward to your trip report after June. Already we are craving the cuisine we just left! It is painful, could you bring some back for us this summer????
Hi StephCar ~ Pronto is right! You are such a sweetie, it is nice to see you. Thanks.
Castel Sant’Angelo
Views. Wow. The views. At first as I began typing to you I wrote that finding your way here on a clear day would be most beneficial, but I don’t know, I think an overcast day would add to the mystic nature of this landmark. So don’t pay any attention to the sky and just visit.
For us the process of walking in and up was as magnificent as the views from atop, the stone is fantastic. It feels so medieval. I can’t help but think if you have children with you they would really enjoy it here. There such a mix of texture. Lovely frescoes in the first room you enter, the sun pouring in making them wake with alert brilliant color. Then massive stone so opposite of the delicate frescoes, and the strength of the gorgeous wood doors. And then the most magnificent views of the city. We sat at the terrace cafe and watched the sun set here. And though it was very romantic, DH kept making me laugh because it was a little breezy (well ok, a lot breezy, ha).
I knew the Pope used to retreat here during times of trouble so when we were on the rooftop, I noticed a long passageway that stretched out as far as the eye could see and I wondered if it connected to the Vatican, it was bizarre, I almost knew it did. Sure enough, when we got back to our room I read more and it does. It is called the Passetto. When you are on the top, look over to the far right and see this long corridor, the Passetto, on the outside, it does in fact connect Castel Sant’Angelo to the Vatican. Very cool.
The Skating Rink
How fun. As we were on our stroll to the opposite bank of the Tiber, we came across a skating rink. All these adorable children skating in 55 degree weather with the sun brightly shining. Of course for us a skating rink always includes shivering and hot chocolate, so to see these Italian children enjoying their frozen pond in lovely weather was such a treat. I (hope) I got some great pictures. We laughed and laughed. They were having so much fun, belly laughing and skating at the same time!
St Peter’s, The Scavi Tour, and the Vatican Museums
scavi@fsp.va
Tel 39 06 6988 5318
Fax 39 06 6987 3017
We were very lucky that we were able to get the reservations for the Scavi Tour. It was very interesting and definitely a highlight. Tips that some of you may already be aware of include: You must book in advance through the Vatican. We did this through email. Once you have a reservation, you need to pay. You may do this by either faxing or emailing your credit card information. They will email you a confirmation of payment. Print this out and take it with you. Present to the Swiss Guards just to the left of steps of St. Peter’s if you are facing it, fifteen minutes before the tour begins. They will not let you pass before that time. When it is time, you walk back and the Excavations Office is on the right hand side, very easy to locate with the other people on your tour. You give them your name and those of us with confirmation emails gave that and they give you a ticket to pass. Your tour guide will find you just outside the office.
More tips include, no photos are allowed, but if you have your camera with you they do not require you to check it. You are not allowed to bring in any big bags, backpacks, etc. They explain this in detail in your email exchanges. One last tip, dress lightly or layer, it is on the humid side.
Such a surprise for us was the fact that is all the churches still had their Nativity scenes still set up. And then I remembered LoveItaly telling me that the Italian culture keeps up their Christmas decor much longer then we do. (I thought she as trying to make me feel better because we did not get our decorations put away this year until the weekend after New Year’s, lol) but it is true, it was still all around in Italy too! Being almost alone with DH in St. Peter’s Square early on a Tuesday morning with the life size Nativity scene and Christmas Tree is a memory I will never forget. The first time I was here was in April eight years before and there were so many people. Quite wonderful too, but different.
St. Peter’s Basilica continued to be very spiritual for me. I did not expect this the first time I was here. I knelt and said a prayer in the little chapel on the right side of the church, an enormous velvet curtain providing privacy and peace for those behind it. My eyes had tears in them then and tears again now this time with my DH beside me. For me, it is just a very emotional sanctuary. The Pieta alone can make me tear up.
If you reserve the Scavi, then visit the interior of the Basilica, and afterward take your long walk around to the entrance of the Museums. If you are standing in the middle of St. Peter’s square facing the Basilica, you need to walk out to the right and follow the sign all the way around to the Museums entrance. It is about a 10-15 minute walk. There is so much beauty in the Museums, so do not rush to the end just to see the Sistine Chapel. It is a very lovely and full day.
Last Thoughts
Go. Enjoy. Do not worry about seeing everything. Pick your top few ‘can’t misses’ and the rest will come. You will be surprised how much energy you have once there. So many picturesque treasures you cannot find in a guidebook. Take a moment to do what love to do at home and do it there to feel part of it all. One afternoon for three full hours, I read on our terrace. Just read my book, like I do at home, only surrounded by terra cotta roof tops, old wood shutters and clay flower pots. A steeple visible off in the distance and church bells joining me. A man comes to a window across the way and hangs his shirt on a clothes line. As the sun warms me I close my eyes and I am not a tourist. I feel Italy in my heart. For many of us, it becomes part of you and it never leaves. For this, I am forever thankful.
For DH and I, Italy is the very essence of simplistic happiness. Three ingredients that meld so harmoniously together you think it must be twelve. Laughter. A sip of wine. A walk. A smile. Someone reaching for your hand. Or possibly the most simplistic is the way we feel while we are there. It is warmth that completely encompasses you, like when you first step into a hot bath. It is magical.
I wish for you, my dear friends, many enchanted moments with your loved ones wherever your Enchanted April may be and in whatever month.
Hello dear Tiff, I am so very glad that you and your husband allowed yourself time to soak in the atmosphere of Rome while at the same time visiting those places that were of such interest to you. As I have told you before, you like to "visit" a place like I do. I smiled regarding your three hours with your book on your terrace. Yes, often those on the best memories are they not? I can only imagine how precious the Italian children were while laughing with joy while they went ice skating. I didn't know that Rome had an ice skating area for them in winter. Priceless!
I wish you two many more beautiful trips Tiff. May you be able to return to Italy when it calls to you.
Hi Tiff
What a great read this report has been! We leave for Italy one month from today and I am bookmarking so much of this report.
We made reservations for the Scavi Tour, but can't seem to get the Vatican Tour lined up. Do we need a reservation in early March or can we just go in after the Scavi?
'Can't wait to delight my DH with your list of great restaurants! We're both foodies and love to linger in cozy places. He's a reluctant traveler, until he gets there. Your report is making it even more fun to anticipate!
Hi mairseydotes ~ Ohhh don't worry about not getting a tour of the Vatican lined up. I am not a huge tour person, half the time even in a small group you cannot hear what they are saying anyway. Read a little before, see it, read more after. It is magnificent and very moving for many either way. Yes, visit after the Scavi Tour.
I should have included this site with my above post:
www.saintpetersbasilica.org
Have a wonderful time.
LoveItaly ~ I love that "When Italy calls to me" Beautiful!
Tiff,
I am so sad that your report has ended. You write beautifully and felt like I was there with you.
Anyway, thank you again for writing it - I'm looking forward to your next trip....
Sally
Tiff - thanks for another beautiful report. You almost convince me to give Rome another try - although my upcoming trip will be Naples, Sorrento and Sicily. And it will be in April - I'm hoping for just a little enchantment.
Bookmarking by another Romesick Fodorite!
Tiff, I can tell this is going to be a wonderful read. I stayed with my mom at Residenza Canali for four wonderful nights last June. It was our first mother-daughter trip in a foreign country and we had the time of our lives.
I have already said that if and when I go back to Rome I want to stay in one of the Canali's terrace rooms! Isn't it just the perfect little Rome hotel? You also went to two restaurants that we thoroughly enjoyed - Armando al Pantheon and Il Bacaro.
Can't wait to read the rest!
Hi Sally ~ I am so happy you felt like you were there, thank you!
thursdaysd ~ your trip sounds so wonderful and oh how I wish for you the most enchantment! My Grandmother was from Sicily. If you ever do seek Roma again, I think you would enjoy the area we stayed in. No more Termini for you. Wishing you many an enchanted day for your upcoming journey!
hausfrau ~ what a wonderful time for you and your Mom! Canali had everything we wanted, didn't it? I hope you travel back again soon.
Tiff,
Really enjoyed your trip report! You have sooo much more patience that I would with international flights. I can't sleep either on planes, and if I had a traveling companion like your DH, I think I would be so mad at there ability to sleep anywhere, I would be trying to get them to wake up half the time
I actually read your trip report for Florence and Venice(never read it the first time) and I loved how you described the reason why you were so excited to take this trip with your husband. You were mentioning how you were almost strangers, and how Italy got brought up, and he later told you it was one of those moments where he knew you were different - I'm such a sucker for stories like those! It must have been overwhelming to get to show Italy to him!!
With all this talk about the airport in Amsterdam, it's really making me want to check it out for myself!
Thanks for your reports on the restaurants - need to make note of them for a trip back to Italy...soon I hope!
thank you so much for your trip report. can't wait for my trip to Rome in Sept 2008
Tiff,
Simply beautiful.
Thanks for sharing your experience with us!
Liz
Tiff, I loved reading your report and sad that it's come to an end. Your ending thoughts were just beautiful and really capture your intense love for Italy. Oh how I crave sitting on a terrace reading my own book, while sipping wine, in beautiful Roma.
Warmest regards,
Tracy
Hi Tiff
I went back and read your Florence/Venice trip report.
I love the way you describe Venice. I'll be there in May, and can't wait. I've marked down your recommendation of Tavernetta San Maurizio.
Johanna
Hi Johanna ~ thanks again for stopping by. I just replied to another Fodorite that will be in Venice in May. Have a wonderful time! Tavernetta San Maurizio was so delicious. Best wishes to you.
Hi Tracy ~ I hope Rome and your book find you soon! You are a sweetie, I really appreciate your generous words.
Hi Liz ~ Thought of you today when our 36 temps felt so nice. Thank you, I sure enjoyed your report and I remember last Spring when it got me so excited for our journey. Cheers!
Hi LizaMarie ~ I think September will be a great month to visit Rome. Have a beautiful time!
Hi Anna ~ I laughed at your post and pictured myself pestering DH while he slept, LOL. I hope your trip back will be soon too. Thank you for what you said about how DH and I spoke of Italy when we first met, it is fun to look back at those moments. You never know was will spark new love, do you????
BTW gracie - if you want to eat at Tavernetta San Maurizio it would be safer to plan for lunch. I went by at lunchtime in November to make a dinner reservation, to find that there was no risotto on the menu, and that they didn't take reservations. It was pretty full then, but when I went back at around 7 to 7:30 it was absolutely mobbed, with a crowd of people waiting outside. When I managed to attract a harried waiter's attention, I was told there was no hope of a table for one.
<<no risotto on the menu>>
Gasp!
thursdaysd ~ Gasp. Was this a permament change, or, or, just no risotto that day? More information, please, if you have any.
Tiff - I don't know if the menu change was permanent, as I didn't go by the Tavernetta again. It was clear that the word had gotten out about it being a good place to eat, though! (I did have an excellent risotto at Riviera.)
Thanks thursdaysd, I appreciate your feedback. (now I am craving vegetable risotto though, lol)
Tiff - the Riviera risotto was made with scampi and was a really pretty purple. I have been known to make risotto myself, although it's easier to find in the US these days. Now, if I could just find somewhere that makes proper zabaione....
thursdaysd ~ yum, sounds good!
TRSW ~ Tom, just in case you stop by again... we picked up our pictures today. I am afraid they did not turn out as well as you and I would like. Some, like on Ponte Sant'Angelo in the afternoon are spectacular, the Tiber just gorgeous and then others, on the small streets are dark, really dark. Do you think it is because the sun is so low in the sky? DH and I have decided that for the next big trip we are upgrading to a very nice digital. What type would you suggest that is high quality and user friendly? I hope you see this post now, lol. I fear I need your help in this area... desperately!
Tiff - a great place to research digital cameras is dpreview.com. I'm currently using a Panasonic Lumix because of the 12x zoom.
Hey thanks thursdaysd ~ how many megapixels does it have??? I will check out that website.
Tiff - mine only has 5 megapixels, although Panasonic makes cameras with more. I only wanted five, because otherwise the pix take up too much room. I do long trips, and don't want to have to dump to CD too often. You can see some of the photos I've taken with it at kwilhelm.smugmug.com/Travel/264391
Beautiful!!!
Your photography is really lovely and so interesting. All those shots in Maramures. Thank you so much for sharing them. I think the talent is within you and not the camera, though I thank you for sharing that info too!
Your trip report just prompted me to phone a good friend of mine and tell her that I finally decided where we are going in 2009.
She had said she wanted to go to Rome but thought because I've already been twice that maybe I wouldn't want to go again.
And I was thinking that it would be good to go again to get fresh new memories of Rome, as the last time I went was with my fiance, who is now no longer in the picture, and the memories are bittersweet.
So this weekend we are going to the bookstore to choose some travel books. I already have a dozen, but one can never have too many. I'm thinking Rome and at least one other city. Most likely Florence or Venice.
Thanks Tiff, for making your report so enjoyable that you made the decision easy for me!
whoknew ~ may your journey in 2009 bring you many new joyful memories. If there is one place that can do that, it is indeed bella Italia. I find your post very inspirational. I wish you many months of happy planning because 'next year' is right around the corner.
Here is to you... and to many more travel books. Here's to the excitement that fills all of our hearts when we begin to plan a new adventure. And to the new memories that you will come home with and share with all of us!
Bless both you and your friend's hearts.
Tiff - thank you - that's a lovely thought - but I think we should credit the scenery. BTW, megapixels do matter - I've just been working with pix I took back in 2001 with my first digital, and they would be better with more pixels. I just think that there's a law of diminishing returns here, unless you're planning on creating big prints.
Thank you Tiff for your wonderful thoughts and encouragement.
I'm already so excited I brought one of my "old" DK books on Rome to work to peruse on my lunch hour. Even though my trip is a year away, I'm sure every Fodorite will understand.
Nonsense! Never too far in advance for planning, that is the fun part!!! I am already planning Jan 2009.
Enjoy your lunch hour perusing!
Tiff,
).
So sorry for the delay in getting back to you. I have been kind of busy with personal family issues (fave uncle just passed away
Now, as for a good digital camera, I have only had one 'point and shoot', a CoolPix 5900 by Nikon. But that was nearly three years ago.
Since then, I have upgraded twice to DSLR's. First was the Nikon D50, then to the D80. Both very sweet cameras! I just find it easier to shoot in the 35mm format. It gives you so much more control on the composition looking through the lens vs the screen of a 'point and shoot'.
I don't know what your budget is, but the Nikon D40X is reasonably priced and is supposed to be VERY USER FRIENDLY. I hope this helps.
Also, I leave for Munich Germany in 10 days and would LOVE (We are friends,right?)to include you on my 'Photo of the Day' list. If so, email LoveItaly for my email address and I will add you. If not, I will post a link for the photos when I get back.
Tom
Good morning, Tiff
Please excuse my boldness in hijacking your lovely Roma thread. But I thought it best to ask TRSW directly right here:
email is: swisshiker at yahoo dot com. Have a great trip!
Dear TRSW, please, oh please, can you add me to your "daily photo" list? I absolutely love your photography (you may remember I told you my DH is a photographer and your Paris pic from the ferris wheel was fabulous). We are heading to Munich this summer, and I'd be delighted to have a daily preview! Consider me a friend, too
Tiff-
I highly suggest visiting National Camera Exchange which is a chain of stores here in the Twin Cities.
I just upgraded our camera to the Nikon D40 dSLR and *love* it. The price was less than what was available at national chain stores, AND the store offers four free classes on how to use the camera. I am attending my first one tonight!
http://www.natcam.com
Liz
Another vote for Nikon cameras here.
I've had two point and shoots, both coolpix so if that's what you are looking for, go with Nikon.
You can see examples of the type of photos you can take with them on my website http://www.wired2theworld.com
Anything since 2005 has been taken with a Nikon.
At Christmas my lovely husband bought me a Nikon D40x, the smallest, most lightweight DSLR on the market and I LOVE it!
I am taking it to Rome next month and I can't wait. It's a big step up from a P&S though and quite a committment to carry it plus extra telephoto lens around. I'm used to just having my camera in my pocket and being much less obtrustive with my photography.
Liz-I took two classes for the Nikon at my local camera store. They were helpful, but I found if you watch the DVDs which come with the camera and read the manual, they cover most of the same info. Still, it was a good opportunity to ask questions. Can't wait to see how your photos come out from Asia (I requested to be added to your blog, hope you got that).
Kristina-
My friend has the D40x and loves it. She took the classes at our camera store and said that the second one is better than the first, but you have to take the first to sign up for the second. I will be able to take both prior to leaving for Asia in 15 days!
I will be sending you an email soon!
Tiff-
I forgot to add the most important part... when I went to National Camera Exchange, I was very open with the salesperson that I was a newbie to dSLRs... The salesperson, who had 23 years experience selling cameras, really helped me decide which model best fit my needs (and my budget). For example, I was leaning toward the Nikon but he also had me hold a Canon, Olympus, etc. to make sure which one fit my hand the best. So I highly recommend the store for reasons other than price.
Liz
Tiff
Another vote for a Nikon DSLR here. Right now you've got two options in the sub $1000 range...the D40x that has been out for a while and just dropped in price and the D60 which was just announced and should be out in March.
http://www.nikonusa.com/template.php?cat=1&grp=2&productNr=25438
It's got the same small form factor of the D40x w/ this year's upgrades. Unlike film cameras DSLRs age rather quickly so if your budget can afford it I'd go w/ the D60. (body and kit lens around $800).
A great place to buy online is B&H http://www.bhphotovideo.com/ .
Wekiva-I looked at the specs for the D60 and at first glance, can't see a difference between it and the D40x. Do you know what the upgrades are? This is killing me because I just got my D40x at Christmas!
Ok, a quick google search revealed the differences. It's basically a d40x body with a couple of upgrades.
http://www.dpreview.com/news/0801/08012911nikond601st.asp
I don't feel so bad now.
Tiff: I just found your trip report and sepnt the last two hours reading it straight through. I just wanted to say thank you for your wonderful report. I love your writing style and you have brought Rome alive to me. We are leaving in May for Rome for our 30th anniversary trip and your report has made me more excited than ever to be there. Thank you.
jdraper ~ oh how fantastic for your 30 year anniversary! Very romantic! Thank you for your sweet words, I miss Italy so much already. Please do post upon your return, it doesn't have to be long, just let us know how everything went, ok???
Happy 30 years! DH and I found each other late, and we always say we are going to count our anniversaries in dog years, LOL, so we can have a 30th, 50th, 60th! Why not, right??? 
Hi Tom, and all my photo pals with such good info! First, Tom, I am so sorry about your favorite Uncle. What a sad loss for you and your family. Please know you are in my thoughts. Thank you for thinking of me, I am kind of already on your photo list, heee, LoveItaly always forwards me your link, so I think we are covered, DH loves your pix too, we so enjoy your photgraphy, and your eye, a true talent. I am thrilled for your upcoming Germany visit. While my heritage roots are in Italy, DH's are in Germany and we have discussed going some day, so you continue to take good notes my friend, and we will live vicariously thru you until we can get there.
Also Tom, what my color photos lacked in clarity, the B&W's made up for it. I was thrilled when I picked them up, they always take so much longer that color. Some of the best I have shot, I was very lucky. Amazing the difference between the B&W's and the color.
I am so grateful to everyone for the above information on their favorite cameras. Thanks also Liz, for the National Camera Exchange rec. Don't you just love them? That is where I get my B&W's developed. I LOVE that store.
Thanks all, safe journey everyone wherever your camera takes you!
p.s. Oh swisshiker, doll, you can hijack anything of mine you want!
Tiff -
"Men do not apply blistex in the Colloseum"
LOL - I am still rolling. So very true.
La Pieta also makes me weep every time I see it. The emotion on Mary's face just takes my breath away.
Thanks for bringing back Roman memories. I am almost tempeting to tack it on to the end of our May Italy trip.
Thanks Again!
Jami
Ristorante tre archi on via dei Coronari 233
Liz, I do not know if you will check in here again, but I had to tell you that I am thinking of you today. Who knew that 30 degrees could feel SO warm. Sunny sky, no wind, outside running errands without freezing from the bitter cold, what bliss!
As we sat reading in our bookstore, chairs in the sunlight, I thought of you and hoped you were feeling sunshine too!
Enjoy the warmth, my friend.
Hello and Happy Friday, Tiff!
Thank you so much for your wonderful detailed review of Residenza Canali. I'm hoping to reserve Room 1 for DH and I, and perhaps the junior suite for my parents and sister who wish to share a room. In all your research on the hotel, do you recall hearing anything about the noise level in the junior suite?
I am in the process of selecting a hotel in Rome for our upcoming trip in late November. DH and I are bringing my parents and my younger sister with us
Hello my sweet Texas Aggie!
My best to you always, Texas Aggie!
How wonderful for you all to be back in Italy this November!
In all my research, the two rooms that were most recommended were Room 1 and 2 (the two rooms that occupy the top floor).
In our experience, I would have to agree, the lower the floor it most certainly would increase the amount of noise. I am not certain which room you are speaking about when you refer to the 'junior suite' as I have only heard the rooms referred to with a numerical description. The two on the top floor though, Room 1 & 2, would be lovely for you all, and they were SO quiet! The location was fabulous and we adored the little cobblestone street filled with antique stores.
Please let me know if I can answer any other questions. Sorry I havne't been around much, I will check back soon though!
Loving the report.
You're making me want to go to Rome!
Bellisimo!
Just read the first bit but want to save it to savour later! What a lovely description - and I share your difficulty in falling asleep (and my DH falls asleep on command!) so I know how exciting it was for you to fall asleep in the airport! Looking forward to the rest...
Hi pittpurple ~ LOL, and yet we still adore them. Amazing, isn't it???
hi adventure seeker ~ thanks for stopping by. I wish we were back there now!
Bookmarking this report - it is fabulous, Tiff! Thanks for sharing, esp. the restaurants - we are headed to Rome in June and I'm collecting restaurant recommendations.
Love your writing!
Thanks,
Karen
Hi Karen, thank you so much, how wonderful it will be for you to visit Roma soon. I was just typing to a dear friend and mentioned how much I miss Italy.
You will be good to us and post upon your return?
Have a splendid journey
Just in case you are traveling to Florence and/or Venice, here are some more restaurant recs from our first Enchanted April adventure:
http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34758287
Bookmarking
The only thing better than going to Italy myself is when Tiff goes. Thanks for the beautiful report.
samsmom1127 ~ I just saw your post. What a truly lovely thing to say. My many thanks