>>Is it just me, or is Rome a tangled mess of streets, piazzas, alleys, unmarked streets and passageways?<<

It isn't just you. Mussolini felt the same way. We were just discussing this in another thread. It's why he built the E.U.R. section of Rome, with it's perfectly straight streets. Turns out Italians didn't like it so much and eventually put his head on a pike.

We were also talking about Beppe e i suoi Formaggi in the same thread. Glad you confirmed it is possible to eat in the shop. Obika is a tourist trap. Did you go on your own, accidentally, or was it part of your tour?

What a great trip report! I can't wait for the next installment.

No, not part of the tour, we just wanted to stay out a bit longer and it was accidentally right there.

Thanks for the validation on the streets...am pleased to know Mussolini and I are on the same page!

Thanks for the replies. More coming.

I'd love some more information on your food tour. Does Elizabeth have a website? If so, do you have a link? Or do you have contact info for her? Most food tours I've seen are in the morning, and like you, we'd love to do one on our first afternoon or evening in Rome.

I'm looking forward to hearing more of your adventures!

http://www.elizabethminchilliinrome.com/

Info and contact is on the site and she is excellent about getting back to you. Ours was at 5:00 or 5:30 and was about 3 hours. Great way to get into Roman life a bit and no need for dinner reservations.

Elizabeth also has an excellent food app for Rome (Eat Rome).

Bring it on Denise...reads like a novel. Most entertaining!

Great trip report so far Denise!
I would love to do that tour with Elizabeth Minchilli some day . I just bought her Eat Florence app for my I-phone last week for my upcoming trip.

Waiting for more!!

I am so worried about your lost glasses, I am anxious to hear how they found their way back to you Great trip report, keep it coming....

Ironic! We got lost looking for Santa Maria della Vittoria and you found it by getting lost! Did you buy the 1/2 euro of light for the statue?

So glad to read this - we leave for Italy this week! Keep writing!

Thanks everyone (hi weekender)! AJP, someone had just lit up the statue so we got that for free! More tomorrow at some point and I am working on the photos also.

We also have never been more lost in our lives. Is it just me, or is Rome a tangled mess of streets, piazzas, alleys, unmarked streets and passageways? Even with a map and two college degrees, we have never gotten more lost, more times.

Uh, have you been to Venice???

Great start, looking forward to more.

The center of Rome is 2500 years plus old. There were no cars - in fact foot traffic was the norm. So, there is no grid pattern and yes, it is is "a tangled mess of streets, piazzas, alleys, unmarked streets and passageways"

The only answer is a really detailed street map showing all of the tiny alleys and walkways. Part of the fun of visiting is exploring and getting lost. (You can't get lost for more than a few minutes in the historic center.)

Great report!!! You travel a lot more luxuriously than we do, but I can't wait for more!

LOL,Leely - I have been to Venice but it was years ago!

Ackislander....Hilton points! I live in hotels most of the year, so this is my reward, thankfully!

Day one photos link:

http://photobucket.com/adamsonromeone

Loving your trip report - can't wait for more. It's easy to get turned around in Rome - we've done it so many times. It took several trips to Rome before we figured out the lay of the land. After the first trip, I spent plenty of time studying the map before we went back. Second and subsequent trips were much better.

Enjoying your report and looking forward to more!

YAY! I am excited to read your trip report and return to Rome vicariously through you!

You are so good about posting your reports so soon after you return, I've been back from Russia for a month and still haven't have the inclination to sit & write!

Part Two, Saturday – 9am after a fantastic night’s sleep

Our second day (Saturday) in Rome, started out with two of the really dumb, absent minded things I did in Rome. (Or, I went to Rome, but my brain stayed home!)

We left off with my sunglasses deciding to stay behind at the norcineria in Camp de Fiori (accident). At least I knew where they were and we didn’t mind going back (and getting some more pizza). I just hoped the sunglasses would still be there. As we were getting ready that morning and were making sure we have everything we needed, I said “Hey, do you have the camera?”

“Uh, no…don’t you?” Are you kidding me? We realized we must have left it on the table at the club upstairs…we had stopped in for a last glass of Prosecco before turning in the night before. So, up we went…nope, not there. Asked some of the staff, nothing! *@#$!!!

So, we went downstairs and asked Adriano to check. Nothing.
Well, that’s what you get for not paying attention. Not sure what to do. Well, that’s not true…first you enjoy the massive breakfast buffet at the Cavalieri. If you can think of it, it is on the buffet there. I usually don’t like buffets, but this one is terrific. Lots of cornetti, crusty breads (and butter, of course), fresh fruits, fresh juices, prosciutto, bacon, eggs every style, potatoes (heavenly), sausages…on and on!

But, the best thing at breakfast was these little round goodies that reminded me of a cross between a beignet and an American doughnut. We couldn’t get enough of them. We coined a term for them…Amazeballs! Now, that’s a term, my girl, Giuliana Rancic uses all the time on “Fashion Police” to describe something really cool, awesome, etc…and, she is from Naples! So…the little round goodies will forever be Amazeballs!

We did go back to the concierge desk and asked Adriano to phone the norcineria and they did have the sunglasses. We gave them our name and said we would be there in a few minutes to pick them up. At least, I would get those back. But, we still had the whole trip to go…we needed a camera. (I am sure that by now, Adriano is thinking I am the dumbest chick on the planet, but he never showed it. And, we love him for that)!

Alright, so we picked up the sunglasses and they were thrilled to be back with their rightful owner.
More wrong turns and wandering around (did we learn nothing yesterday?). We ended up at Largo Argentina and checked in on the resident cats. OK, we had heard of that and it’s always cool to see ruins in the middle of the city. Good accident.

We eventually wandered around some more (with all the expected wrong turns) and realized we were finding our way to the Pantheon. Progress! We were going to end up somewhere we meant to go, at last!

No time to go inside, but a quick photo of the Bernini elephant obelisk outside Santa Maria sopra Minerva.

On to the Pantheon, with 2000 of our closest friends. Incredible structure and I love it so much more than the Pantheon in Paris. It’s just kind of cold and uninteresting, but the original in Rome is impressive! We definitely were trying to figure out the “doorways” around the bottom of the dome and the light factor. It was noon and the sun was shining squarely on one of them. Chaz’ original back is engineering, so this is his area. A look at Rafael’s tomb, the massive oculus (and remembering reading that if it ever snows in Rome, you should go to the Pantheon to see the snow fall though the oculus) and we were off.

Piazza Navona was the next stop. Loving the fountains everywhere in Rome! Bernini’s Fountain of the Four Rivers is out front and then we decided to check out Sant Agnese in Agone while we were there. Another beautiful Rome church and a place where Borromini also has significant influence.

I decided we needed to buy another camera, as the iPhone pictures we were taking would not do! We had a tour scheduled with Daniella Hunt to Hadrian’s Villa and Villa d ‘Este that afternoon. Chaz was hoping it would still be found (and I was too), but no camera for the whole night? I couldn’t take it…I broke down and bought one (consider it a “stupid” fee). I figured if we got the camera back, great. But, if we didn’t, we would need a camera for the rest of the trip and Sunday morning would not be the time to get one. Our Coliseum tour was at 1:15 on Sunday and I didn’t want to chance it.

All that decision making, required some pizza consolation. Forno, to the rescue. We ordered pizza bianca and pizza rosso and survived the ordering process, despite the fact that we speak no Italian. Still yummy. We decided the pizza bianca is way better than the rosso, at Forno!

Time to head back to the hotel and clean up for the trek to Tivoli.

As soon as we walked in the room, a note slid under the door. At the same time, I saw the message light on the phone blinking. Yippee, a camera was turned in!

Back to Adriano again, who walked me back to ID the camera…a bit like identifying a body. We got the camera back. Someone thought it was theirs and realized it wasn’t that morning and turned it in. We never found out who turned it in. Fortunately, there were no “strange” photos on the camera. LOL.

We met Daniella in the hotel lobby and were off to Tivoli. Daniella is a hoot. Lots of fun and we hit it off immediately. Now, know this, if you hire Daniella you will be asked lots of questions to draw you in and gain your participation. She doesn’t just tell you what she knows about the history or the site. Bring your brain! I love that about her. She just wants to get you thinking and to have you interact.

Hot and sunny at the Hadrian’s House. Wow, what a complex out there! We learned it was more than a residence but an administrative center and probably designed to keep his staff and advisors away from the plotters and schemers in Rome. Daniella tells you so much about what Hadrian was like, his miserable marriage and his young boy toy (hence, the miserable marriage and bitter wife).

Hadrian would describe things he had seen on his travels and then have them recreated at his Villa. He traveled to England and all the way to Egypt. I loved his own private island he had built. I would love to have my own little private island. I also loved the huge complex with fountains and a huge pool used for parties and huge dinners.

It is a very large site and without some knowledge of what the ruins used to be and insight on Hadrian, we would not have gotten as much out of it. We also got to sample some wild arugula on the property (washed by Daniella) and she showed us the pine cone that pignoli come from. History, botany…full service! It was hilarious later when she pointed out some little black balls on the ground and Chaz went with the botany theme and quickly picked one up! Daniella explained that he had picked up a goat turd (while dying laughing)! Thank God, he didn’t sample it. Another happy accident.

We met back up with Emilio, the driver, and headed into Tivoli. Daniella asked what we wanted to do for dinner. We took her suggestion and headed to a great little restaurant in Marcellina. On the way we saw a bit of the countryside and a massive waterfall from the Anio river.

The town is less than impressive, but we enjoyed the little seafood restaurant and we all had a good time. It was nice to have some down time before Villa d ‘Este opened at 8:30. We had aperitivo out front with some nice olives and mini pizza rosso, while catching La Passeggiata. It was an interesting group of people and Marcellina might be the white trash town of the area. (Sorry, no offense intended here, all in good fun) Some unusual fashion choices, for sure!

We had all kinds of mussels, shrimp, fish, etc…for dinner and I loved the shrimp in tomato sauce with chickpeas! Unusual and yummy. I was glad Emilio was driving the winding roads back to Tivoli!

Now, here is where I wish I had a really great camera. True, we now have two cameras, but without a great flash, you can’t capture the beautiful fountains at Villa d ‘Este. But, seeing it at night is worth it. We could not believe how gorgeous this place was. The Cardinal did it up right! We also lucked out at caught the organ playing fountain at 10pm. I can’t believe that it plays off water and the fountains! There are more fountains than you can imagine and they are all so gorgeous. It is a special place to visit.
Villa d’ Este was a favorite of ours, and again, Daniella brought it to life. If you are in Rome in summer, try to go to the evening hours there. We hope to go back during the day, at some point. We had a clear, cool night there! Very welcome, after the sunny, hot afternoon at Hadrian’s Villa. We got in around midnight. It was a long day but we absolutely enjoyed Daniella and the sites at Tivoli! A plus rating for all!

It was a really great day in Rome, accidents and all.

Hi, LCI....it's my way of re-living my vacation while getting back to my regular life! I am sure there is something else I should be doing right now (like unpacking)!

Loving this report and the pictures from the first day are great!

Sounds quite fabulous so far, even accounting for the lost-and-found adventures

I hope to get day photos up tomorrow.

Uhoh, it was pretty fabulous. We absolutely saw a lot even when we were lost!

Fun report & great photos!

I just checked w/ Elizabeth M to see if we could do a food tour and she'll be in Venice. So sad! But of course she's working on an EatVenice app so its good news for future Venice travelers. Her EatRome app is the best.

Check with Katie Parla about a food tour. She also comes highly recommended!

http://www.katieparla.com/tours/

If you are interested in wine, VinoRoma does terrific tastings. More on that later!

www.vinoroma.com/

ttt

Day 2 photo link:

http://s1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome-day%202/

TTT

Loved the day 2 pictures, especially the pictures from the dinner in Marcellina (big surprise there...food porn!). And the driver Emilio is a snazzy dresser & pretty easy on the eyes!

Great pictures! I haven't even gone on our first trip, and now after seeing your pictures, I'm already thinking about a second trip since I know we won't have time to fit it all in the first go around!!!

Thanks, LCI...Emilio was so nice....didn't speak alot of English (more then my Italian) but you could see the recognition when he understood what we were saying. We had to ask him to join us but he could not have any wine, obviously. We had alot of fun with Emilio and Daniella. And he he tried to decline the tip, but he was so nice to nit charge us extra for the trip to Marcellina, we wanted to give him something extra. Maybe you and "the nose" should meet Emilio in November!

ShellD- you are so right. I am reading a book on Bernini and Borromini and on the flight home I was finding all kinds of things we did not see, plus several things we already knew we didn't get to. We will have to go back for sure.

Denise: super writing, and great stories! You guys know how to travel! I know you work hard to get the time for these trips, and thanks so much for carrying the rest of us along!

Do you mind sharing the cost of your food tour with Elizabeth? Sounds fabulous! Great report.

Thanks taconic! Glad to bring you along....still have dreams of the ultimate Fodors GTG with lots of Fodors friends.

Caze, it was around 500 euro, which includes all the food, drinks and wine (and it was alot) and three hours of her time. I can't remember if it was a flat rate for the tour or if it was a certain amount per person. It was a private tour but she also does group food tours that also include gelato and coffee stops.

denise - I've been looking forward to your trip report ever since you posted your planning thread, and you haven't disappointed me.

As I am highly unlikely to stay at the Hilton, or do a $500 food tour, I'm really enjoying travelling with you.

keep it up!

Re; Pantheon
"We definitely were trying to figure out the "doorways" around the bottom of the dome and the light factor. It was noon and the sun was shining squarely on one of them.'

The sunbeam on that "doorway" was just a fluke, it had to shine in somewhere that day and it just happened to be there.

Those windows also peaked my interest when I 1st saw them, I just figured they were statue niches.
This is what I recall when I searched about them.

The "doorways" are actually 'fake windows' or I should say they once were.

The 14 windows had a bronze grate/screen in each of them, behind this there was a small hole to the outside that would allow light in.

This dim light really didn't do anything to brighten the inside of the Pantheon but it did give the illusion that the illuminated window was now somewhat real.

I once read that the windows gave the illusion that the bottom of the dome was Earth-based with the dome as the Heavens above?

In the Renaissance they liked their idea better and stripped off the original design.

They put pediments over the windows, changed the design of the sections between the windows, took out the bronze screens and turned the windows into statue niches.

In the 20thC using paintings or drawings or both they reconstructed 2 of the windows, the space between them and the low marble wall in front of them back to the original design which once encircled the entire lower dome.

You can see that reconstructed section in these 2 photos, in both photos the reconstructed original section is to the right of center.
You can't see the detail in either photo but it is quite beautiful and colorful.
http://tinyurl.com/9p768om AND http://upload.wikimedia.org/wikipedia/en/1/1e/Pantheon_360.jpg Regards, Walter

Walter, thanks...what an explanation! You are a wealth of knowledge.

Annhig, we are very lucky to get to do some of the tings we do. It's just the two of us, so at least we aren't blowing some poor kids college fund on our travel. But, at least we can usually get the plane fare or hotel on points, which helps alot! Glad you are enjoying the report. As with every trip, You plot and plan for months and the trip just flies by!

Denise: wonderful second day photos of Hadrian's villa etc.

I talked DH in to going to the Boston GTG on October 6. He thinks I'm daft, but I'll bet we'll meet lots of Fodor's superstars! Wish you were going to be there. Or are you?

Thanks taconic...no I have a project at work that will have me in LA most of October. Hope it is fun!

Sunday – Day 3

As it was the two before, it was warm and sunny in Rome. We started at that great breakfast buffet with our daily allotment of Amazeballs.

We had a blast watching a girl in her yoga clothes fret and fuss at the table because things weren’t being brought to her fast enough. Nothing was being done to her liking. Everything she wanted was on the buffet, so I am thinking “just go get it, Jeez”. It got more fun when her husband/boyfriend showed up…the outfit was like some kind of SNL skit. Big, silly sunglasses, tight white pants and a "flowy" white shirt. I wish I was good at getting photos of people without them realizing it. He looked like Zoolander goes Zen.

Today is our Walks of Italy VIP Coliseum tour (Top tier and Underground)! This is one that Chaz is really looking forward to. We started off a few hours ahead of time to see a few more sites.

First up, the Trevi fountain. We got there without too much trouble (assisted by the signs in the area). Fortunately, it wasn’t too massively crowded. If it hadn’t been for a tour group of about 100 Italian teenagers, it would have been very nice. But, it was funny watching the teenage girls vie for attention, smoke their cigarettes and be cool (and rude, they’re teens, right?)

As it was, it was still pretty to see. It’s just huge and I am a sucker for a fountain. There was some scaffolding to the far left and that never thrills me. Although, scaffolding on all the great sites is just a part of it, as something always needs to be cleaned or repaired.

I wish we had also gone back to Trevi at night. We were never in the area at night. I am sure it is beautiful to see at night.

We walked on to the area around Vitoria Emmanuel and Trajan’s forum. I am always amazed by ruins in the middle of a city. We just don’t have that in the States where even the oldest building is practically new.

Lots of people around, including the Gladiators. Annoying! Then the pushy tour guides who are hawking their tours. “The line is two hours long, signora” I had two Gladiators try to box me in and that pissed me and Chaz off. So, that’s the downside of an area with so many sites to see.

The view of the Coliseum as you walk down the street is so very cool! We took some time to sit in the shade at the Coliseum before our tour met. We were trying to save our feet, as much as we could. I think they were still tired from the day before (and that would be a recurring theme on this trip).

Our group met at the Coliseum metro stop and headed over. I was glad we had bought a bottle of water to take in with us. It was now a hot, sunny day and there is not a lot of shade at the Coliseum and the Forum. Vncenzo was our guide. He was good and had a lot of history to try to cover in 3 hours. I missed the day in school when all the Roman history was covered, I think.

The first big thing was walking out onto the stage of the Coliseum. Vincenzo had some Gladiator movie music ready to go on his iPhone and played that as we walked out. It sounds cheesy, but it was actually very cool and we all loved it. This, I think, was Chaz’ single favorite moment of our trip. I actually had to catch a tear….I remember seeing the Coliseum in books since I was a kid. I couldn’t believe I was actually there. What a view! We really felt lucky to be out there.

We went on to the underground area and Vincenzo explained how the animals were moved up with elevators to spring onto the stadium floor. It was quite an operation to produce the games of the Coliseum.

Last, up to the top tier of the Coliseum. So very exciting to be up there overlooking the entire Coliseum. Everyone in our group was great about making sure we all got couple photos throughout our tour.

One funny thing was watching other people visiting the Coliseum either try to sneak into the special access areas behind us or wish they had known you could do that. Vincenzo regularly had to chase off people who weren’t with our tour.
On to the Forum! We started at the Arch of Constantine and heard about his vision (Under this sign, you will win). Now we are on super-cram history overload. So much to see and talk about and I can’t remember a lot of it. We heard about Marc Anthony’s funeral speech for Julius Caesar as we saw the funeral pyre for Julius Caesar. We saw a lot there.

Now, I have to admit that at this point, my feet were screaming and I was starving (shoulda got a snack before we got started). So, I hate to reduce the Forum into only a few sentences, but I was done. Hot, starving, dogs barking….done.
The second we were done we took off. I needed something to drink, some food and a seat in the shade. Angelino ai Fori fit the bill perfectly. It was right across the street and had a lovely greenery covered terrace out front. We had good service and they were friendly. A pizza margarita was on our table within 5 minutes of us ordering it. We waited much longer for the melon and prosciutto but all our food was good. We didn’t want to eat too much since we had dinner reservations at Hosteria Glass that night.

A cab back to the hotel, a little shower and a few proseccos in the Imperial Club and it was time to head to Trastavere for dinner. Sunday night is jumping in Trastavere! Wall to wall people. The cab dropped us a block or two from Glass but we found it easily. This is such a cool restaurant.

It is sleek and modern, but in no way cold. We were seated in the middle of the first floor. The staff is very attentive and also speaks excellent English. We checked out the wine list and asked for a Rose Franciacorta or similar sparkling wine. We took the suggestion of the server and I then noticed him speaking to the chef. They both seemed happy and intrigued that we were getting this particular wine. The chef looked at me and gave me a nod, as if to say “well done”.

(The scene reminded me of a time in Sonoma at Cyrus (a very small restaurant), when Chaz and a friend ordered a Powers whiskey and a Guinness. The entire staff came out to see who had ordered this! They were immediate legends.)

Back to Rome. The chef made her way over and introductions were made. I told her we are friends of “LowCountryIslander” and she immediately remembered her. So we talked about Fodors, Twitter and the power of social networking to get the word out. Cristina Bowerman is her name and she is an amazing chef. You will see her talking to guests at Glass and she is also careful to ask about any food limitations anyone at the table has (very thoughtful).

The wine was so good. Not a Franciacorta, but another sparking rose (Italian). Then a tray of 5 different breads came out. A squid ink and raisin, a crispy thin lavosh type thing loaded with fennel seeds, cornbread, crusty white bread. Very creative.

The amuse came out…a melon soup with crispy prosciutto on top. Terrific!

Primi…Chaz had a risotto with grapes, Sicilian cheese and a sauce we can’t place; I had the parmesan ravioli with asparagus cream. I win! OK, we both win…but mine was too die for! It is THE best pasta dish I have ever had. Freshly made pasta, light asparagus, foam and the parmesan oozed out of it. I didn’t know parmesan could do that.
Loving Glass!

Secondi…I had the beef tartare and Chaz the grilled lamb. Hard to pick a winner here because they were both incredible. But, the tartare is so fresh, creative and fabulous! Lowcountryislander…you know this! It has a wasabi cream sauce, tobiko, orange & microgreens. Completely different from any other tartare I have had. The lamb was grilled perfectly and comes with quinoa and lentils.
Dessert…I got the yogurt semifreddo with verbena oil and sprouts, Chaz got the Bailey’s ice cream, Marcona almonds and coffee frozen thing with spun sugar. Both good, but the semifreddo won that round. Light, refreshing and not too sweet. The herbs on top are a great twist. Perfect after a big meal.

A second finishing dessert with a glass of prosecco…mini crème caramel, white chocolate/coconut truffle, Cassis jelly and Kumquat tart. Excellent!

We spoke with Cristina on our way out and told her we might be back. We raved about the food!! It was just a great meal , great restaurant and a great night.
We saw Castel Sant’Angelo all lit up on the way back to the hotel…pretty. Nite, Nite!

Up next: St. Peter’s Basilica and the Scavi tour

I am so glad you enjoyed Glass! Their bread selection is incredible...the most interesting breads I'd ever seen...I loved the crispy thin lavosh type thing loaded with fennel seeds!

Chef Cristina sure is one class act, and her food is absolutely delicious. I'm drooling just reading your descriptions!

denisea - I LOVE the way you travel!!! If I wasn't going next year with my kids, AND my parents...I think I'd be walking in your footsteps! But anyway....

I've been communicating with Walks of Italy about their VIP Coliseum Tour - it sounds great. I'm not sure if it's worth paying the extra for a private tour - thinking it may be a bit more customized for the kid's benefit (they'll be just about 12 and 14). Or if we'll just stick to the group tour.

We're going to be in Rome after cruising the Mediterranean - so while they may have seen their fill of sights, to me these are THE sights to see!

LCI...you did us right by Glass. Just fantastic.

ShellD...regarding the private tour, first I am a big believer in saving time where possible all a trip like this. So, if I can pay more to avoid standing in line, I will do it most of the time. Second, I will pay more to see more. I think Walks has another Coliseum tour that doesn't include the underground and top tier areas.

In both cases, you go right in and don't stand in line waiting to buy tickets and get in. Certainly, the Roma Pass is an option to avoid the line. I believe you can also buy tickets at the Forum and go into the Coliseum from there and avoid the line.

The extra access to the top tier, stage and underground were worth it to me. I am not usually a tour person, but for the above reasons it was worth it. The fact the group is small is also a big thing for me...I won't do a tour with 30 people. I will say that some of the places we didn't have a guide were less interesting because we didn't know very much about the site and what we were seeing.

Bookmarking for reading late.

We did walks of Italy Colosseum, Palatine, and Forum last May. The groups are max 12 people, which is fine. Informative and fun. Put "ricksteves2012" in the coupon spot when you book online and get 10% off! It did involve considerable walking.

OK, the photos from Rome day 3....there are a lot of them but I couldn't delete any! Enjoy.

http://photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome2012-day3

A pizza margarita was on our table within 5 minutes of us ordering it. We waited much longer for the melon and prosciutto>>

ah, Rome. the vagaries of service. I still love it. BTW you can but a ticket to cover the Palatine, the forum and the colosseum at any of those three places. but of course it doesn't include the top tier and basement of the colosseum, and having now tried to understand the forum twice without a guide, the next time, I'm going to hire one, no matter what the cost.

nice pics!

I'm really enjoying your report and your gorgeous pics. We were lost a lot too at first - must be some kind of Rome tradition. I know you've been to Paris a few times and I think this was your first trip to Rome - just curious - how would you compare the two? As much as we love Paris (which is a lot), we love Rome even more.

You got it annhig....best not to try to figure out how to bake a pizza in 5 and take 25 to slice ham and melon. I no longer cared, I had a glass of wine, in the shade, off my feet. It's all good. There was a lot to take in at the Forum, I have already forgotten so much of what Vincenzo talkd about.

John183, I am still trying to sort that one out. I think the disadvantage I have in deciding that is because our hotel was so far out of the central part of Rome. We have never stayed far away from the central Paris. They are quite different and I do love them both. Chaz mentioned, as we discussed this, that perhaps Paris is more elegant. We have gotten comfortable there. Rome is more gritty and chaotic but there is so much "wow" in Rome. Maybe it is like asking me "Jimmy Choo or Christian Louboutin"? I can't decide., you can't make choose only one (BTW, those are shoes, if you don't know)

Maybe I will have to go back to Rome to have enough info to decide

HA! I like that attitude - more research!!!! Unfortunately for me I did know they were shoes (I've watched way too much Sex in the City with my wife). On our last trip we stayed in the Albergo del Senato next to the Pantheon and absolutely loved it. The hotel was great, the location could not be beat and we especially liked the roof top bar. It's like most questions that are asked on this forum, there is no wrong answer - in this case both cities are incredible. Looking forward to more of your report....

Totally love you., john183...I am still a huge SATC fan.

So funny, we walked into to Albergo del Senato to ask for directions and I remembered several Fodorites recommending the hotel. We met a couple later in the week at a wine tasting, who stay there every years and the love it, as well! We have already decided it is the chosen hotel for the next trip. My only question is the noise level....I am a light sleeper. What has your experience been there?

Denise, Great trip report and wonderful photos!

If possible you might want to correct Day 3 photos 38-41, that single arch with the Menorah is the Arch of Titus and not the triple arched Arch of Constantine.

Nice photo (41) of the arch's ceiling 'Detail', that is Emperor Titus riding an eagle into the Heavens meaning he's dead but now deified as a God. Regards, Walter

I've stayed at Albergo del Senato. No problem with noise and we faced the Pantheon (which was a great thing to see right from the bedroom windows).

Denise, sorry to say Cyrus is closing. Bummer, huh? Were your amazeballs filled or no? If filled they might have been bomboloni.

Thanks for continuing your report. I'm going to take a peek at the latest photos.

Yes, I knew I would get all the Arches messed up in my head. I don't know how you remember all of this, Walter!!

Leely, thanks re: A. Del Senato. Hate to hear Cyrus is closing, we had a fabulous meal there.

The amazeballs were not filled. We are missing them now!

Denise...I stayed at the del Senato in March and will be staying again in November. Noise was no issue at all. And, IMHO, it's a terrific location!

Monday- day 4 St. Peter's and the Scavi

A little "surprise" from the dry cleaners...the dress that I brought to wear at the Vatican (past the knees, with short sleeves,) that had been lost by the cleaners 2 days before we left and finally found....was never hemmed!  I got it back so late, I never had time to try it on.  So it is still 6 inches too long....plan B, find something else to wear to the Vatican.

Off to the big daily breakfast.  Yoga girl and Zoolander also there. Chaz was totally in love with the coffee and espresso in Italy. We saved a fortune just by hitting the Imperial Club for coffee and espresso for him.  Some of you may know him as Mr. Starbucks, from previous T/R.  I want to let you all know now, that no Starbucks were sought out in Rome. I think he may have spotted one on our very last day (never confirmed) but he loved sitting and sipping his coffee everyday.  I still can't get all the terminology right, as I don't drink coffee much at all.  I will say that while I did enjoy having unlimited access to Coke Light, I actually drank far less than I do at home.

We had a 1:15 reservation at the Vatican for the Scavi tour.  

We went over early to see St. Peter's and to check out where to go for the Scavi tour.

First, the assault of the tour hawkers. I guess it would be wrong to say what I really wanted to say to these irritating people, at the Vatican, no less. They pretty much will not leave you alone until you tell them you already have a tour of some kind or are rude to them.

Although there have been lots of questions about getting to the office, it is very easy. We went early to be sure we would know where to go and walked over to a Swiss Guard, who told us we were in the right place and to come back at 1:00 to go through the security check (right at that entrance).

The line to get into St. Peter's was moving quickly, so we jumped in and got through in less than 10 minutes. The dress code was definitely being enforced. I know I am getting old now as I looked at what people (and all women) were trying to get in wearing.  Streetwalker chic will not do at the Vatican! Daisy Dukes, wife beaters, halters...now, I wouldn't dream of wearing the first two and only an occasional halter dress, at night. I kinda had to shake my head. In fact, what goes for street clothes for the 20 and under set these days is shocking. Yes, the circle is complete...I have become my mother.

Alright, back to St. Peter's....the scope is just massive. How much marble is in there?  One of the great things about this church, is that everyone who was anyone in design, sculpting, painting was involved here, at some point.  Right off the bat, the Pieta.  Very beautiful! I would find out more about this beautiful statue later and like all great works of art, you have a crowd to work though to get close (as close as you can with the statue behind glass, but more about that later).  

We walked into the chapel to the right, and entered the Chapel of the Holy Sacrament.  We entered after being shoved by some little Filipino women. LOL! Some of the worst behavior we saw , sadly, was in St. Peter's. This chapel is so gorgeous, what can I say? I respected the signs and took no photos, and I wish I could remember it all. If you go, make a point of going in, sitting down and taking it all in.  Beautiful.

There was so much to see there and we made our way to the baldicchino. We learned from Daniella Hunt earlier in the week, that although Bernini is credited for this, Borromini most likely did most of the work.  Borromini had much more experience with bronze and we know he worked for Bernini on this.  For those who recommended "The Genius in the Design"' thanks. I am half way through it. If you are interested in these two and their incredible work, it's interesting and enlightening.

The amber sunburst behind the alter is also amazing.  I can't begin to remember or describe everything here. It was also interesting to see the Confessio and link it (later, in our minds) to the Necropolis below.

We spent a little over an hour in St. Peters.  Took some photos of the piazza outfront and made our way over to security for the Scavi tour. The Swiss Guard are incredibly polite, the check was easy and we went to the office to check in. No ID was requested by the office. We got our tickets and waited with 4 other couples for our guide. I noticed a few people had back packs with them...I took a tiny, flat purse and these guys had backpacks!

As we started, I couldn't help noticing that one of our tour group members was a dead ringer for Mary Kay LaTourneau.  A little weird, I have to say. She even wore her hair the same way as MKL. Has no one ever told her, "hey, you look like Mary Kay Latourneau?". I might change up the hair at least.  I digress but it was so odd.

Giuliana was our guide. She said she was Italian but sounded more Russian. She was a little hard to understand ("slope" became "sloop" and "higher" became "iger"). She explained how Peter's bones were found and how the original church was built. The original necropolis that was there and how it was excavated in the '40s.  It was quite humid and warm in the necropolis. I thought one of the men was going to pass out while we were down there.

We came upon the spot where the few remaining bones of St. Peter are...not easy to see and yes, they are in plastic boxes.  This has come up on the forum previously, so I will say here, that we were told we could pray here if we wished and our guide left us to see and pray or not. No suggestion to do so and no pressure.

We ended the tour in the Vatican Grotto and we took a few minutes to wander around there before leaving. The tour was good and worthwhile...sadly, no photos allowed.  We decided to walk to Campo de Fiori from the Vatican, just to see if we could walk somewhere without getting lost! We did it! Not without constantly checking the map, but we did it. The plan was to hit Forno, again.

Foiled....Forno was closed. Oh, well on to plan B. We stopped in at Baccanale for a late, light lunch.  It's right on the piazza and has the hardest work "barker" in the world there.  He is always there and asking people to come in.

We started with a small glass of prosecco and a strawberry.  Chaz got the Caprese salad and I got the pear, gorgonzola, walnut and honey salad.  They were both quite good! Gorgonzola in my salad had been piped into the  pear and then the pear was sliced...pretty inventive. Back to the hotel to clean up and relax for a bit.

We decided to have a few glasses of prosecco at the club before  heading to Campo de Fiori for dinner. We so enjoyed the incredible view of Rome from the club at the hotel (and the prosecco and pistachios). We got to Campo a bit early and stopped in at Al Biscione for a last prosecco before dinner.  They were working hard to get us to stay for dinner. We ended up with HUGE glasses of prosecco and some tasty little grilled sandwiches.  

 Much to their dismay, we did leave and headed over to Costanza for dinner. The staff there is very friendly and the restaurant is very cool inside. You can see all the old brick in the walls. Costanza is built under/in the remains of the Teatro Pompeo. 

Chaz ordered Cacio e Pepe and I got roast pork with potatoes. Both good but the pasta was better.  Our desserts were also good....a berry napoleon type thing and tirimisu.  It was a solid meal, not especially remarkable, but good. I am sure that eating the little appetizer sandwiches right before was not smart.

We headed back for a good night's sleep.

Tomorrow....oops and the best laid plans....now what?

Denise:

I have stayed in a Pantheon facing room at the Albergo del Senato twice and noise was never an issue with the windows closed. You two will love the rooftop bar...

Thanks weekender and LCI....great to know. Now, we have to figure out a way to get back to Rome.

I agree, the location there is top notch....right in the middle of everything.

So glad Chaz enjoyed the coffee in Rome, I love it there too. I know he is a "tried & true" coffee drinker, not much into what I call "fru-fru" coffee drinks like I am. But in Italy there are hundreds of ways of ordering coffee. The blogger Ms.Adventures in Italy has published a book on all the different ways to order coffee in Italy. A favorite of mine is a caffe shakerato on a hot summer day...YUM!

And, it's good you didn't go hunting for a Starbucks, the last I heard, there was one scheduled to open in Rome and another in Milan, but I'm not sure if that has happened yet.

Denise- we're looking at doing the food tour with Elizabeth on our first day in Rome. She emailed us a description, which is a bit different from the one you did - this one starts earlier and seems a bit longer - which is all fine by me! But she is concerned that we may be too jet lagged to enjoy the tour. We're going to be a group of 6. Myself and my husband, our kids (12 and 14) and my parents, who are in their mid 60's but a healthy and active mid-60s. I wasn't thinking that a food tour could be strenuous, which is why we were wanting to do it our first day. It seems like a nice, almost leisurely way to eat your way through Rome and get a good introduction to the food and the city. Can you think of a reason to NOT do the food tour on our first day? I can't imagine that visiting historical sites would be less tiring? And with 6 of us, and not knowing what to do or where to go, just wandering seems to not be the best way to start our trip, especially tired

Denise, First would like to say I am a big fan of Prosecco also so enjoying reading that part...sounds like fun. We have never visited Rome other than the airport to continue on to other regions of Italy but you make it look like so much fun. We looove Paris so much and always seem to end up there but think it is time to pay Rome a visit. The Italian language is fun and easy to learn after speaking French.

I'll make it unanimous, we also had no noise problems at the del Senato (but we were not in a front-facing room). I understand why you stayed outside the center on this trip (free and fantastic rooms) but, as you have already said, staying right in the middle of the action really makes a difference in how you experience a city.

Your teaser worked - I'm wondering what went wrong the next day. I'm guessing it's something your good attitude and some prosecco fixed right up. LOL!!!

I've been mentally crafting a trip to Umbria for next year, but your report is making me crave Rome. Thanks for sharing!

We came upon the spot where the few remaining bones of St. Peter are...not easy to see and yes, they are in plastic boxes. This has come up on the forum previously, so I will say here, that we were told we could pray here if we wished and our guide left us to see and pray or not.>>

denise - I was having a debate with someone here recently about what "St. Peter's bones" are kept in, and I was sure I'd remembered them being in what looked like tupperware! we too had a guide whose english was less than perfect, but somehow it didn't seem to matter very much. I don't recall anything being said one way or the other about prayer, but even this old atheist found it moving being below the great altar as the midday mass was starting, so i'm not surprised that those with a religious faith do feel moved to utter a prayer.

LCI-Chaz always forgot the shakerato! Next time, I guess.

ShellD - no, I can't think of a reason not to do the food tour on arrival day. If you all have traveled before and know how you respond, then do it. Elizabeth was amazed that we were not dragging and still felt great. I think we met at 5:30 and finished around 8:00pm, but we tsayed out until 10:30 or 11:00. I thought it was good to walk a bit (it wasn't too far) and sample food here and there. I do think her usual tours are slightly longer than the one we did (we didn't go for coffee or gelato). It was a great way to ease into Rome, we thought and we did siight see earlier in the day.

Cornelius...do go to Rome. We are still deciding but love Paris and also Rome...they are quite different but I think you will enjoy Rome.

Thanks John, am working on it. Jmct, you can do both!

Annhig...I couldn't remember all the specifics of the thread but on one someone had stated that their guide kinda insisted they say a prayer or something. We are not religious people at all, so I was glad it was not "forced" on us or expected. The plastic box was like something from the Container Store!

Will try to get the photos up in a little while.

denise - i was astonished to find myself weeping with emotion as i heard the choir start singing above my head, and 2 years later, i still have no idea why it took me that way.

Jmct - I agree with denise - you could pick up a car at the airport, tour Umbria, then return your car somewhere like Orvieto, and catch the train into Rome and finish your trip there. BTW, I had quite a thing about NOT going to Rome, couldn't see what the fuss was about, loved seeing the rest of Italy, etc. etc. until at the age of about 50, I actually got there. Now I would be happy to go every year.

The link for day 4 photos:

http://photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome 2012-day 4

I have felt the same way at times, annhig, in churches and am not sure why and I almost cried at the Coliseum! We light a candle for an old friend, in one church when we travel. I don't know why we do it or how it started. Who can answer these things?

http://photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome 2012-day 4

Let's try this again! Sorry.

OK...something is up with the link. Will try to sort it out and re-post later.

denise - I'm getting the same "page not found" on both links.

but I'm not crying - yet.

http://s1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome%202012-day%204/

One more time, this is making me nuts! I paste the link in and then when it gets submitted it chops the end off...let's see if this works!

Denise - love the pics of the view across Rome and nice to see you and Chaz too!

Day 5 - Orvieto, better think again!

We got up early to catch the train for our day in Orvieto.  I don't know why but I checked email (actually was hoping for an update on our pups from the pet sitter).  I had an email from Costanza and while I don't read Italian...I understood the gist of it.  "Did you leave your credit card at the restaurant last night?" A scene from A Christmas Story came to mind...."fuuuuuuuuuuddddggge"!

Seriously, I have never done more boneheaded stuff than I did on this trip.  Here's a lesson, don't do things differently when you are traveling than you do at home!  Chaz was closer to the waiter and I gave him my card to pay the bill. I assumed he got the card and he thought I did. Well, we know what happens when one asssumes.

We found the bill and credit card receipt and then I saw the bread/cover charge.  I would be mad about that but at least they let me know about the credit card.  But, pay attention because the "tourist cover charge" is alive and well.

As we headed up to the club for a quick breakfast, I was wondering what to do....go ahead to Orvieto and possibly worry a bit about the card or scrap the day's plan and pick up the card as soon as possible. We would probably need the card in Orvieto and it's no foreign transaction fee card, so I had planned to use it for shopping.

Somewhere in all that, I went to the ATM in the hotel (which is attached to a bank).  The machine would take the card and then just sit there.  Well, that's not good. 

I went to get Chaz to try his card.  We had already used the ATM a few times without any problems but I wanted to try something else.  A British gentleman walked up and we soon realized, it was the ATM.  The bank was just opening and we finally got the manager to come out and take a look. He decided to watch me try to get money, same thing happened....

"It  is broken"....Really?  Gee, thanks....

The British guy knew there were a few ATMs a short walk from the hotel and explained to us how to get there and off we went.  

As is always the case, it was a bit further away then we had been told but we finally found an ATM machine and got money.

 I threw out an idea for a change in plans as we had already lost a good bit of time....switch Ostia Antica and Orvieto.  Head to OA for a few hours and pick up the wayward credit card at lunch when Costanza would definitely be open.  That would mean no wine tasting in Orvieto but would be less stressful. No worrying about the credit card and Chaz readily agreed to that.  I am so glad we hadn't bought train tickets in advance. We emailed the regional enoteca and canceled our tasting and apologized for the change in plans and then we were off to the Metro station to head out to Ostia Antica. We then emailed Costanza to let them know we would be in during lunch to get the card.

I was secretly relieved that I would not have to visit the concierge, Adriano, for yet another "hey, I'm back and still stupid" visit.

We got a little bit confused on getting to the train to OA, but figured it out and were hopping onto the train, when my foot slipped and my leg ended up in "the gap", as the British would say.  I am going to thank Chaz and anyone else that has helped me train my core over the years, as I stayed upright, grabbed Chaz and pulled my leg out of the gap & onto the train....not even a scratch and barely a smudge on my white jeans.  Really lucky.  

It was awhile before the train left and more and more people got on the train (asking us if this was the train to OA, not realizing that we may have been the stupidest people in Rome, at the time). The train ended up being very crowded and hot...no chance of ever getting a seat.  Eventually, we got stuck next to a teen "couple" and the girl had her music cranked. Not sure why she was bothering with the headphones but we heard all the hot American teen songs ("Call me maybe") on the way out while watching another teen couple make out. 

We used the info sent to us by another Fodorite for Ostia Antica and we followed those directions from the train station  to the entrance. We walked a little past the ticket counter before realizing that we had missed it. We turned and started walking to it and I noticed another couple heading in the same direction....she started hauling as* toward the counter! Faster and faster....she was practically sprinting to get there first.  It was so ridiculous that we both started laughing. There was no line, so I am not sure why she needed to get there first, but she did.  I thought about tripping her but decided that she could certainly go first, since it was clearly her life's mission to get into Ostia Antica before us.  We waited behind her and still walked into the gate at the same time as our race walker friend. I can imagine what she was like as a child.

We had some info on Ostia Antica and there are all kinds of ruins to see.  It was sunny and hot (as we missed the cooler hours trying to find a working ATM).  Maybe we were a little "ruined" by Hadrian's villa and the Forum, but we only stayed an hour and a half before heading back into Rome.  For us, this is an area that a guide could be helpful in.  Or maybe, we had enough of ruins, but it was our least favorite thing. It wasn't bad at all, but we didn't love it.

So, back into Rome and over to Costanza to pick up the credit card. They remembered and we had the card back in just a few minutes.  Thank God, that was over.  Lord, please don't let me do anything else stupid on this trip! I can tell you that we checked about ten time before leaving any place the rest of the trip....camera? check...credit card? check...sunglasses? check

Pizza at Forno for lunch ( red and white ).  A few beers and a few glasses of wine at Mercato on Campo de Fiori before heading back to clean up for our dinner at La Pergola. 

Have I mentioned the extensive population of weiner dogs in Rome? They are everywhere! If you are looking at the photos, there was a shot of a sleepy little "hot dog" on day one.  Anyone know why the dachshund seems to reign supreme in Rome?

It was nice not leaving the hotel for dinner and we wouldn't need sunglasses or a card (tab charged to the room). So, we just had to make it out with the camera.  We, as usual, took advantage of the Imperial Club (and the great view for) some prosecco before dinner. Apparently, Jerry Seinfeld and George Coastanza's parents were also there. We got the "which kid is oldest, David or Larry" and "no they weren't on that trip, Ira " early bird, Del Boca Vista conversation. Hilarious.

We made our way up to the top floor to La Pergola. We got a great table outside (at night the weather was really great in Rome).  St. Peter's was so close and the view was really spectacular.  We started off with a little Rose champagne.  The service is very traditional here.  Almost fussy but not uncomfortable.  Lots of carts and ceremony and if you like those traditions, you will love La Pergola.

I did like that they poured olive oil with two different salts (one Sicilian and one pink Australian)  to try with the bread. The bread selection was also impressive.  We ordered some Ferrari sparkling wine for dinner...very good.  There is a picture of the amuse but I don't really remember what is was (sorry).

We both got the cacio e pepe with lime marinated shrimp for primi. It was quite delicious and the shrimp worked with it.

My main was a lobster dish and Chaz got the beef. Both were very good. We began to detect the vocal stylings wafting up from the outdoor bar below. We soon realized we were hearing the slowed down,  thoughtful version of "Maniac" from the movie Flashdance.  Shades of the Bill Murray lounge singer from SNL.  We were hysterical. I wonder if Heinz Beck had intended that to be the dining music for La Pergola.

We weren't swayed by anything on the dessert menu but we still got an assortment of dessert minis, anyway, the passion fruit ice cream with white chocolate ice cream cone was very refreshing.

The chef, Heinz Beck, did come out to speak to us at the end of the meal and we didn't discuss the "Maniac" music. Very nice man.

We enjoyed La Pergola, but it is extremely expensive and the food, while good, is not as spectacular as the price. The view is priceless and our experience was good but no where near our top dining experiences at other places. In fact, the food at Glass blows La Pergola away.

Still, another great day in Rome for us. I began to realize the trip was flying by!

Up next....a totally unplanned day in Rome for shopping and some spontaneous sight seeing

You certainly have some interesting adventures on your trips! Your reference to an early bird Del Boca Vista conversation had me laughing out loud - too funny! Too bad you missed Orvieto - we really liked it - but you can add it to the "next trip to Italy" list. Really enjoying your very entertaining report - and your pics are great.

yep - this is Italy. i remember sitting on the same train next to an italian who was using no less than 3 mobile phones - quite a feat.

the reason that it gets so crowded is that the train goes into the beach after OA - but it does have the advantage that it gets too crowded for those people with the little begging cards to come round. How do they get them printed in such perfect english if they have no money?

Denise - you must have exquisite karma!

Seriously, the flight upgrade, the lost and returned possessions, and then the ultimate....the slip getting on the train. White jeans! White Jeans! That did not get dirty or grease marks? Seriously, that is too much. Well, I guess enduring the teenage makeout session wasn't so lucky.

I gasped out loud when I read about the slip, glad you were not hurt. Enjoying the report!

You make me laugh out loud! Keep reporting!

Yay, someone got the Del Boca Vista reference! And, i will say that we did go to Orvieto...more on that later!

Good to know annhig...I could not inagine why all the teens were on the train. We did have the play for pay musicians on the train but no beggars. I saw a woman begging on the street with $500 backback on her, so apparently I am in the wrong line of work.

OMG davispeets...i think I should have bought a lottery ticket! I do try not to do anything in life that would warrant reincarnation as a dung beetle, so maybe I do have good karma. I do know how lucky I was on the trip. When I felt my leg slip in, my first thought was the white jeans....instead of my leg! Kinda messed up!

We just opened up a bottle of prosecco for our sparkling Saturday. Our new mouth of truth is presiding over our cocktail hour and I am sure will re-hash the trip....still trying to figure out Rome or Paris and why.

All of your references crack me up! You have raised the bar on writing trip reports. Your witty, self-deprecating and informative style make it a very fun read. And thanks for the reminder - it just became prosecco time on our deck too!

Thanks....glad you're getting your psosecco on,

Hi everyone, the link for day 5 photos from Ostia Antica and La Pergola....

http://s1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome2012-day%205/?albumview=slideshow&track=share_email_album_view_click

Day 6 - Free to "Rome"

Another fabulous breakfast...amazeballs, croissant, crusty bread slathered with butter, fresh juice....all great!  Lots of coffee for Chaz, no hurry...today we have nothing planned at all. But, I do want to see at least one thing and have some shops I want to find.

We caught the subway to Republicca and started there, intentionally this time.

Our first stop would be Il Giardino di Domenico Persiani on via Torino.  On the way we popped into San Bernardino. It is a round church with an amazing honeycomb like ceiling.  More interesting than the Pantheon's ceiling.

We found the garden shop pretty quickly...the street numbering is still an enigma to me.  As we stopped to see where we were, I realized we were standing right in front of the shop! They have lots of garden decor.  A very nice couple runs it.  She is French but speaks good English and he is a man of few words. Their cat Luna, supervises the little shop that is set in a courtyard.  They have lots of  Bocca della Verita,  in several sizes, Bacchus and all kinds of cherubs and all things for outside decoration.  We bought our own mouth of truth that will grace our little nook on our front porch where Sparkling Saturdays take place at 4:00pm.  We also got a cute marble plaque that says beware of dog in Latin.  (Our pups are barkers and talk alot when someone comes to the door). Perfect for us! Everything was well wrapped for travel home (and all made it back safely)!

The lady at Il Giardino told us that the real mouth of truth was nearby and tried to give us directions. It wasn't long before we realized we were not finding it, so we scrapped the search and ended up stopping in at St Paul's within the Walls. It's an Anglican church and we spotted a turtle sunning himself in a fountain outside the door.

We hopped back on the Metro to Spagna and I spotted a group of kids for the second time that day.  I suspect they were a little pickpocketing band and we were glad for the safety pin idea from another Fodorite.  Chaz pinned his pockets so a hand couldn't easily reach in. I had saftey pinned the zippers on my purse and felt a little better about avoiding being victimized while in Rome.  The group of kids had an adult who would stand in the same car, but away from the group of kids who apparently were riding back and forth between major tourist stops.

The steps were much more crowded than they had been when we were there on Friday.  And we headed back down via Condotti in search of a few shops I was interested in.  I tried on a ring that I was hoping wouldn't fit...but it did.  I didn't have an extra 1800 euros, so we said goodbye.  I did buy a unique little leather change purse at Pineider.  I found a few more shops but nothing I couldn't live without.

Here's another thing I loved about Rome, the readily available fresh, cold water.  (just wanted to mention that as we filled up our water bottle at will as we walked all over Rome)

We just couldn't resist the draw of lunch at Roscioli. Another fav about Rome...wonderful pizza that makes a cheap lunch! Well, our wires got crossed and I ordered pizza pomodoro, rosso and mozzarella. I had to wait on the mozzarella and Chaz headed out front with the other two....when I got the pizza he was polishing off the pomodoro.  Turns out we both wanted that, but I thought he wanted the mozzarella....so that ended being  mine and it was good. But Chaz was raving about the pomodoro. Rats! I totally missed out. He ate it all so fast, I didn't get a single bite or a picture.

On the way over to Roscioli, we had passed by Galleria Doria Pamphilj. It came highly recommended by so many of you and so we decided to head there after lunch. But first, Gelateria Corona. Now, this would be our first gelato in Rome. I don't know why we hadn't gotten around to it before but now was the time to start.  I got chocolate and banana, Chaz the stracciatella.  All were terrific. I hated to miss the Orange and Coriander (sorbet, I think)  but never got back to try it.

On to the Galleria Doria Pamphilj...an audio-guide came with admission and turned out to be excellent.  The palazzo was so gorgeous, but like many of the places we went in Rome, no photos.  This was one of our favorite things to do in Rome. Lots of history, a beautiful setting, unbelievable art and no crowds at all.  Thanks to those who made a point of clueing us in on this overlooked gem in Rome. Can you imagine if your family home had a Versailles "like" hall of mirrors, Bernini sculptures and lots of Caravaggio paintings? We liked the narrator's ( a Pamphilj family member)  comment that he and his sister once got in trouble, as children, for roller skating on the terra cotta tile floors. His grandmother (or great grandmother) was English and they were all educated in England, which explains why they all speak more English than Italian. A fellow Fodorite had commented on the narrator's accent , and I thought I would throw that in.

Here's a note....once you get into the actual living areas, no photos and they will track you down, if you do it anyway. We saw a monitor go find a fellow visitor and she got  all over him for taking pictures.  I wish I had pictures to share...only a few busts on the way in and a shot of a marvelous bath.

We made our way to the Pantheon for our second visit...made better by the info we got from Daniella on Saturday. I had been looking for a stationary store nearby and we stepped into Albergo del Senato to inquire about the location....it got us thinking that this may be the place to stay next time.! Turns out, alot of you agree. We never did find the shop, but as we made our way back to the Spagna metro station, I looked up and there was the glove shop I had wanted to find (Di  Cori)

It is tiny but they have more leather gloves, in more colors than you can imagine. But could a find a pair that would fit me? I have very small hands and feet....size 3 1/2 rings, 4 1/2 shoes. Gloves never fit me....the fingers are always to long.  While I didn't get the plum color I really wanted. They did have one brown pair that fit well, only the pinky is just a tad too long and that's practically perfect for me. 

I would also like to thank Chaz for toting around the heavy items from Il Giardino ALL day! The error in my plan was going there first! And he is totally given a pass for eating all the pizza pomodoro. 

Back to Hilton Heaven for clean up and pre-dinner prosecco.

Our dinner reservations were for La Gensola, an osteria in Trastavere. To this point, the bellmen at the Hilton had been so good about making sure the taxi drivers knew where we wanted to go.  We gave the address and name of the restaurant  and we thought the driver knew where he was going but we were dropped at the piazza where Santa Maria in Trastavere is located, which is not exactly where we needed to be.  We walked over to the church because we had plenty of time. We entered the church and were amazed at how beautiful this church is. The mosaics are incredible.  A service was beginning and so we cut our visit short but I would love to go back  and see this church during daylight hours.  It was another "happy accident". 

Our internal GPS and map failed  us again as we searched for the La Gensola. We went every direction except the right one.  Wasn't there a show called  "Land of the Lost" when we were kids? Maybe that is the title I should have given this report! LOL.

Well, we didn't feel too bad when we asked a carabinieri for directions and he didn't know the restaurant or Piazza Gensola. His partner did know and we got directions....and off we went.  Just when I was about to give up, I was looking around to see where we were and there was La Gensola.

The staff there is very good and we had an excellent meal.  They brought out some little fried chickpeas things to start.  We split an order of rigatoni carbonara to share.  Sooo good.  I had  grilled langoustines and Chaz had cod topped with tomato and basil. Both good, but Chaz won the round.  Light and fresh, simple and delicious! We finished with some cinnamon gelati to share.  The only thing we didn't enjoy was the woman at another table who read all of her birthday emails to her husband aloud at the table in a Charlie Brown teacher voice.  In fact, the guy we saw peeing on the street on the way to the taxi stand  was far more interesting than listening to her read every single email she got that day.

We would definitely go back to La Gensola and we appreciated that there were no BS charges on the bill!

We enjoyed our day of wandering around Rome but turned in relatively early. 

Next up: We can't find our way around Rome...could we find our way out of Rome?

So glad you enjoyed La Gensola! A favorite of mine too. The seafood there is extraordinarily good, glad to see you both had seafood dishes.

"We also got a cute marble plaque that says beware of dog in Latin. �(Our pups are barkers and talk alot when someone comes to the door)."

'CAVE CANEM', That 'Beware of the dog' saying is popular today because of this famous mosaic in Pompeii www.groovypetblog.com/cavecanem.jpg

Chaining a dog in the front entryway was an ancient burglar alarm esp at night also chaining a slave there was common.

A canem in the 'right place' at the 'right time' for this photo.
http://gelatojourney.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/0673.jpg Regards, Walter

LCI...we have learned you order seafood at a seafood place...don't go there and get a steak!

Walter...yes, cave canem is the plaque. We saw the plaques with "attenti al cane" and the dog that looks like that mosaic. Actually, a friend of mine gave us one from Positano years ago. Our dogs are excellent alarms but not chained! Is that your dog in the photo? Ours are Shelties and look a lot like the dog in the photo (especially when they have their summer hair cut). Thanks for the history lesson....maybe you could put everything you know on a flash drive and send it to me! Would love to transfer all that data straight into my head.

Here is the link to the day 6 photos of our "free" day in Rome....The album somehow missed a 6 on the end of the name.

http://s1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome%202012-day/

The "original" cave canem mosaic is in Pompeii. When I was there as a high school student it was easily visible, but now 40 odd years later, it is behind an iron work protective grate, poorly lit, and a disappointment. I bought a postcard of it.

That seems to always be the way it is with something that becomes well known ....it gets so popular it has to be protected, and ten you can't see it anymore.

LOL, No I found the photo on google images and thought it was unique with a live dog standing on the Cave Canem mosaic.
It is extremely likely that it is just one of the many strays in Pompeii.

I was always a dog person but now later in life my babies are 2 cats, which are self-cleaning and potty trained.

I'm just a Roman history buff/nerd and when I see a something I know about in a post or they mention an interest in something historical I just like to add additional info to it if possible.

My favorite photo in your album is Day 2 #32 because very often what you can't see in the Roman Forum is the most interesting.

Between and in front of those 2 statue bases hidden just a few inches underground is an entrance ramp.

I've been convinced for years and it is the only logical place for a Via Sacra entrance way into the Domus Publica (that location is definite) which was the house where the Pontifex Maximus lived.

Years after Julius Caesar's death Emperor Augustus gave the Domus to the Vestal Virgins to expand the House of the Vestals.
Rebuilt, destroyed by fire, rebuilt, fire, rebuilt, etc.

So the Domus Publica is beneath all that, never to be excavated except for this ramp that lead into in which was excavated and only filled back in recently?

I firmly believe that if you went back in time (standing where you took that photo) to March 15, 44BC late morning you would see the Pontifex Maximus in a litter being carried out of his house and down that ramp.

Later in the afternoon 3 slaves walk up this ramp carrying the dead body of the Pontifex Maximus
home.

This on the last day that Julius Caesar was the Pontifex Maximus.

Cool photo Regards, Walter

p.s. I've posted a Julius Caesar Assassination walk here @ Fodors where I mentioned that ramp before.
I plan on adding more info about this ramp and why I think it is the entrance to the Domus Publica soon.
So if you and Chaz don't mind I'd like to include just the URL to that photo, I already have a photo of that area when it was excavated but not one since it was filled in. THX

Absolutely, Walter feel free to include the URL. I am amazed at your knowledge...have already forgotten so much since the trip!

"The "original" cave canem mosaic is in Pompeii. "When I was there as a high school student it was easily visible, but now 40 odd years later, it is behind an iron work protective grate, poorly lit, and a disappointment. I bought a postcard of it."

True but it is for the best until at least they can protect it (if ever) from 'wear and tear' and of the small pieces becoming tourist souvenirs.

Notice all the loose small green tiles in front of the dog.
http://gelatojourney.files.wordpress.com/2010/06/0673.jpg

I once took a Context Rome tour with archaeologist Darius Arya in Ostia Antica where we came across one of the large floor mosaics.

One side where the foot traffic on the mosaic was the heaviest the edge had become dislodged and the small tiles seperated and were just lying around loose.

I don't recall the exact conversation we had but I do remember his passion over the destruction.

Figure every week it gets alittle larger and a piece or two is lost forever. Regards, Walter

We were wondering about many of the sites we went to where ruins were wide open with little or no staff at all watching visitors. Hadrian's Villa and Ostia Antica seemed particularly vulnerable to overzealous visitors and/or vandals. You hope that no one will decide to take things or destroy anything.

Day 7- On to Orvieto

Well, on to Orvieto, if the Adamsons can get to Termini, buy tickets and get on the correct train!  It had rained during the night and the weather was cooler and cloudy.

We got on the train at Cipro and rode to Termini.  Following Rick Steves info on the train station we started looking for the red, white and green automated ticket machines, which we did not find.  We did find a line for tickets that wasn't too bad and Chaz went to look again for the automated machines.  I got to the person at the account and said "orvieto" and he pointed upstairs. Apparently, it is two flights up from the Metro track! Up we went and there were about 30 of the automated ticket machines.

Very easy to use and we got tickets to and from Orvieto.  Now, to find the track....too far ahead and all the monitors were tied up with trains leaving before the train to Firenze/Orvieto.

I decided that a bathroom break would be smart and off I went.  Could the toilettes be any further away from the tracks?  No, they couldn't be AND you have to pay a euro to go. The emperor Vespasian would be so proud, as he was the father of the urine tax  ("Money doesn't smell), as we learned from Vincenzo earlier in the week.

After walking about half mile to get to the bathroom and back, we went back to the tracks and figured out the right track.  We encountered two "helpful" teens who were annoyingly insistent on helping us, whether we wanted help or not.  And of course, they are there to make money.  Just as I was figuring out that our train would leave not from track 2 but 2ES (or ER or something like that) and we started heading that way, the kid started trying to get our attention and some money.  I just kept walking, as the departure time was getting close and I didn't want to miss the train.  It is a haul to that track and we got there with 5 minutes to spare. We accidentally validated the return tickets, as well. Oops. 

We hopped on the train and looked at the map and didn't see Orvieto.  Oh no.  
I decided to ask the guys outside the train, who said "10:30" in Italian.  Alright, I don't know why the train map inside the car doesn't have the stops (maybe different train cars are use to run different routes) but all you need to know is when the train gets to your destination.  You can start paying attention a little bit before then to make sure you don't miss your stop.  

There were a few Brits and Americans going on to Florence, so felt sure we were on the right train.

We had a Jersey shore Italian style couple across from us and that was entertaining for the trip. And an attendant did come though to check our tickets.  Otherwise, the train ride was uneventful but comfortable.

 We got there, off the train and on to the funicular with no problem.  There was a group of Americans on the tram with us and they were all trying to figure out whether the funicular ticket seller had short changed them.  They were loud and no one knew who had paid, so I don't know how in the world they decided that they didn't get the right change.  (in my head, I was screaming "shut up"at them)!

We took in the incredible view at the overlook where the funicular lets you off.  It is worth stopping for.  Chaz wasn't too into waiting for the bus that takes you to the cathedral, so we headed up the little road that leads up to the duomo.

Orvieto is a little postcard town.  Lots of quaint alleys and passageways to photograph.  We made our way up and shopped a little on the way up.  I wanted to find some ceramics to ship back home.  

We found the Art Shop (Via del Duomo, 28)  which is a tiny shop full of Italian ceramics, just down from the duomo.  The woman in the shop spoke just enough English to be very helpful.  They ship to the US (in fact we had our shipment 3 days after arriving home and in perfect condition). We selected a traditionally  patterned salt container for a friend and then several pieces in an olive motif for us.  I already wish I had bought more, but I think you can email them to buy more (www.orvietart.it) . They have lots of bottles for vinegar and oil, plates of all kinds, salt and sugar holders for the table...great stuff for the home kitchen and entertaining.

Next we hit an olive wood shop and I believe the name is "Patris" (via del Magoni, 11) .  We have been wanting a cool mortar and pestle and a salt cellar for the kitchen.  The wood at the shop is beautifully patterned and they have all sorts of things.  The proprietor (Umberto, I think) is super nice and very helpful.  He is proud of his work and love to show you how a quick buff of the wood with sunflower oil produces a gorgeous luster in the wood.  His wife is American, from Florida, and still learning Italian.  We ended up buying a few olive wood bread boards, a salt cellar and a mortar and pestle set.  They are all so pretty with most unique patterns in the wood.

From there, we visited the duomo. The exterior is beautiful, very ornate.  I love the black and white marble stripes that make up the walls. Stripes are always in style! 

Now we had been told that the cathedral was free but the chapel of Brizio was not.  When we were there, you had to pay to get into the church period (3 euros per person).  The inside of the church is pretty with frescoed walls.  The chapel of San Brizio is to the right and is really something.  Signorelli's paintings are incredible and you can understand the story that is being told, with a little "pre-work".  The End of the World and the Preaching of the Anti-Christ are very interesting to see.

There was a service going on in English in another chapel in the church. Always strange to hear anything in English when you are abroad!  The church is pretty, not grand on the scale of so many Roman churches, but unique and worth a visit.  The only thing that detracts are the stacks and stacks of ugly chairs along the walls. I am sure they are used for services (and what else can be done with them), but they don't add to the experience.

By then, we needed some lunch.  We decided to have a nice, long lunch and sample the Classico  wine then, since we missed our wine tasting.  The Trattoria La Grotta  ( via Luca Signorelli, 5) was down a passage way not too far from the church.  The walls had interesting paintings in little arched niches. The chairs were wood and the tables were dressed in red and gold linens, very warm! The service was good and friendly enough. As usual, we were first in but the restaurant filled up while we were there.  

We ordered a recommended bottle of Classico and we both ordered the pasta all'amitriciana.  The pasta was terrific and hit the spot on a chilly day.  We enjoyed the wine (Ca Viti Classico) as well.  We decided to relax with the wine and end with a cheese selection.  It was also good and we enjoyed the down time.

As they day went on, it got windier and colder.  Chaz noted that I looked a bit like a bag lady in my long printed dress with a clashing printed wrap.  An absolute Glamour "don't", but I was trying to stay warm and Glamour was no where around!

We did a bit more browsing and shopping after our long lunch.  I know there was more to see in Orvieto, but we enjoyed having nowhere to be and just strolling the town.  We will do the Etruscan excavations and St Patrick's well another time.    

We visited a small gallery with very modern pieces, not our taste.  (I did get a great shot of a pomegrante, the lady in the shop says the tree always produces just one fruit). 

Despite the cold, we wanted to get some gelato.  There is a great gelatateria to the left of the duomo (Pasqualetti). Too bad the weather was chilly because they have a great patio outside.  With the bad weather, there was no line.  I tried the Crema and Chaz went for half and half, tiramisu and Cappuccino.   The Crema is a little like a custard, I couldn't quite put my finger on the flavor but it was good. 

I also spent  a little time looking for a few Christmas gifts. We made our way back down the road that leads back to the funicular.  We saw a little shrine in a niche just off the road, and I now think it may have been the entrance to a pre-school.   I got a cute shot of a sweet little dog hanging around the main passageway.  We probably could have taken the ~4:00pm train but went back to the overlook area.  The sun was out and we took more shots of the views.  We saw a little black Sheltie walking around with its parents in the park where the overlooks were located. It turns out they were on the funicular when we got on.

I asked the couple if they spoke English and they did. They were a Dutch couple and were so excited when I told them we have two Shelties at home. Dog lovers are everywhere. The little dog was so sweet and just 8 months old.  The couple was on the way to Germany from there to pick up a new Sheltie puppy before returning to Holland. She showed us pictures of the new puppy and the parents of the one with them, who were gorgeous dogs! They were great to talk to.

We stopped in at a very local bar across from the train station to get an diet coke and an espresso.  We thoroughly enjoyed watching the Italian music videos.  They are like going back in time, like 80's American videos, but worse. 

We went on to the station to wait on the tracks...that was quite windy and cold. The train was also late by about 10-15 minutes. We got stuck waiting by two German chain-smoking teen boys, who looked liked they wanted to kill us. Where is that train?

We made it on to the train and an easy ride back to Rome.  I got to see first hand that the "50 Shades of Gray" phenomenon is truly global...the woman across the aisle had her head buried in the Italian version.

It wasn't raining when we got back and we managed to miss any rain in Orvieto, but you could see it had been raining. We took the metro back to Cipro and headed out to find a taxi for the trip back to the Hilton.  Yep, it started raining and as we ran to the cab stand I ended up stepping right into a water filled hole. ..definitely an accident.  As in any city, cabs are scarce when it rains.  We did get the only one anywhere near the taxi stand and we thrilled to get it.

After being gone all day, we were a bit tired (and now my feet were wet). We had an early meeting time the next day for the Vatican Museums tour with Walks of Italy.  We decided to head straight for the hotel restaurant for something quick. The staff at L'Uliveto was so accomodating. We were not dressed up but at least it was early.  Marco was our waiter and he picked up on the fact that we just wanted something easy (probably because we still had all of our purchases with us).  He told us they could make whatever we wanted, pizza, pasta, anything. Perfect.  We split some prosciutto and melon, cacio e pepe and a pizza margarita.  Marco was lots of fun and we were in and out quickly with a very good dinner.  Many thanks to everyone at L'Uliveto.

Up to our room to lounge for a few minutes in our fluffy hotel robes and houseshoes! We really enjoyed Orvieto...great day, great trip!

We set the iPad and iPhone alarms to get up at 6:30 for a quick breakfast and dash over to the Vatican Museum for the tour.  The Sistine Chapel awaits!


Next up: An Unexpected Visitor and the Amazing Vatican Museums

Mrs. Peabody and I felt that the best gelato on our Rome gelato crawl was at Il Gelateria del Teatro. Intense flavors, combinations beyond imagining. Or just get the world's best pistacchio.

http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g187791-d1140866-Reviews-Gelateria_del_Teatro-Rome_Lazio.html

Each day we get a different and charming story. This one reminded me of a lovely (sunny) day in Orvieto 2 years ago. Grest memories! Thanks, Denise.

Hey, taconic...we really enjoyed Orvieto and wouldn't mind going back for an overnight stay and hopping over to Civita.

AJP....we failed miserably in the gelato department. Only two visits for gelato, so we will have to improve next time. It may have had something to do with not being able to lay off the pizza from Forno and Roscioli.

Here is the link to the pictures from our day in Orvieto:

http://s1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome%202012-Orvieto/

Love your travel report! I'm leaving for Italy in three weeks, and though I'll have a much different trip than yours, I am throughly enjoying reading about your fabulous vacation.

Quick technical question, if you don't mind... how do you like the photobucket app? I'm looking at different apps to put on my ipad for posting pics of my trip. How efficient/effective/enjoyable has that app worked for you?

Rosecity, I am terrible with all the technology stuff! I am new to photobucket and it has been pretty easy to learn. I used one of the adapters for the iPad to download my photos from the camera onto the IPad. Then used photobucket from there to upload into folders and give titles/names. I think you do have to use a computer to do any effects with pictures, but I don't do anything like that.

It's easy enough to learn on your own!

Day 8 - The Roman Rollercoaster

Day 8 started way too early. 3am to be precise.

I awoke and realized my soft palate was super swollen. The unexpected visitor, a recurrence of this stupid hereditary condition I have.

I don't want to turn this into WebMD, but I have a condition that causes my throat and soft palate to swell. Not an allergy, and believe me if I could find the trigger, I would avoid it but it's an enzyme deficiency and that will do for explanations. It's mostly a nuisance, like this time. Once I decide that I can breathe and am not in any real danger, then you just manage it. That means sitting up (laying down doesn't help the swelling). Talking and eating actually help but not really an option at 3am.

No need for those alarms, after all. I was short on sleep and not at my best but the Vatican museums awaited us.

We headed up to the club at 7am and waited for the doors to be unlocked. We wanted to grab a bite before our morning at the Vatican museums. Our meeting spot was around the corner from the Vatican and we had to be thereby 8:15. It was also pouring....so glad we brought the travel umbrellas.

There were two groups meeting at the bar that morning and I almost squealed when we were told we would be in Stuart's group. I had read how great Stuart is as a guide on Trip Advisor. He also skips ahead to the Sistine Chapel so you see it before it gets crowded.

As we talked to others in our group that day, we realized again how much we get out of Fodor's. If you know me, I am a voracious planner for our vacations. We had done so much more than the people around us and knew about so much more. I think a few people were ready to hire me as a planner.

We made the soggy trek over the the museums and had to wait in the rain, as they opened the doors. Here's a tip...if it rains when you are going to the Vatican, use a small, travel umbrella. They will often require you to check the large, golf sized umbrella and you will have to walk back around when your tour ends to retrieve it.

Before we head into the museum, Stu explained that we would skip everything at the beginning, but come back to it. First, we would go to the Sistine Chapel to see it, virtually alone. We would come back and cover all the things we skipped and work our way through the museums, Rafael Rooms and back to the Sistine. We would end at St.
Peter's.

I will take a moment to digress and say that a new pet peeve arose from taking small group tours. The people who know they are with a group, on a 3-4 hour tour and want to use the first 15-20 minutes of tour time to run to the ladies room. Are ya kiddin' me? Didn't your mom make sure you went before you got in the car for that trip or before the movie started? Now, I am a middle aged woman and I know, I better hit the girls room before I go anywhere. For those who watch Monday Night Football, "Come on, man"! Go before you walk over to the site!

OK, rant over and back to the tour....

So off we went and Stuart explained a bit about the Vatican and what we would see that day. We also got some background on the Sistine Chapel, on the way. Stuart, who is British, is very witty and kept everyone moving....very efficient and aware of time constraints.

As we entered the chapel, he positioned us where he could tell the story of Michaelangelo and his painting of the ceiling. He would move us around the rooms to see the parts of ceiling best, as he told the story behind the painting.
There were probably 30 people, including us, in the Sistine Chapel.

The famous creation of Adam, the scaffolding built for the work, what frescoes are and the difficulty of working with plaster, the creation of Eve, Noah and the floods, jonah and the big fish.....Stuart really brings it all to life for you. This is the way to see the Sistine Chapel.

It also stuck with me when Stuart pointed out an area of the ceiling that was left dirty in comparison to the remainder of the ceiling that has been cleaned. The soot that must be have covered all the gorgeous painting was incredible. Candles and fires lit to notify the faithful if a pope was elected or not had taken their toll!

Stuart also knows a lot of the guards and politely asks to take some time saving short cuts to get to and from the Chapel, as quickly as possible. They all obliged. I can tell that that when we returned to the Sistine toward the end of the tour, it was wall to wall people!

You really appreciate how great it was to be in the chapel before the crowds.

We returned to the beginning and Stuart keeps the pace moving, he knows we can't stop at everything. We saw so much, and it is a bit of a blur now but it was an incredible experience. Stuart's explanations of the significant works are so helpful. He really shines in the Rafael Rooms. I wouldn't have known much about what I was seeing, without his narrative. He is fun to listen to and boy, does he know the history!

As we were leaving, I noticed a few stragglers who have read to exit the Chapel with a group to get to St Peters. It was kind of funny to watch but I would do the same thing.

We ended in St Peters and it was great to get some info on what we saw alone, a few days before. The Holy Door, the Pieta...Sad to know that Pieta is behind glass because of a deranged man who went after the statue with a hammer and did significant damage years ago. The sunburst is made of sheets of Amber...incredible! There was more that I can't remember and couldn't possibly go into, if I could remember it all!

Another moment when we were so proud of our research (and thankful to all our Fodorite friends)...Stuart was explaining about the Vatican grottoes and the tomb of St Peter below and he recommended the Scavi tour. No one else had heard of it and we had already been on it! Stuart has only been once after living in Rome for years. He was impressed!

The tour exceeded our expectations. With something like the Vatican Museums, sometimes you hear so much and your expectations are so high, that the real thing can't live up to the hype. Not the case here. A high point for the day and for the trip.

We left and it wasn't raining but it was cold. In September, it was cold and damp, in Rome! We tried to find Pizzarium but no luck and our feet we tired and wet. I had a list of places in the area, so we made our way to Dal Toscano for lunch.

We walked up and a man screamed something to us in Italian. Nope, not buongiorno, but we finally figured out we were there before they had opened. (close the door, next time buddy). Now, had we been smarter, we would not have gone back.....but we did.

Here comes a low. In fact, the worst dining experience we had in Rome.

We ordered a fitto misto platter to start and some red wine. The wine was good. The fried food (artichokes, zucchini, chips, some arincini, a meat patty of some kind) was kind of bland. Chaz got Cacio e Pepe and I got agnolotti with a ragu sauce. They were average. Not terrible, but nothing exceptional. We also noticed that locals and non-American tourists got far better service and didn't get the stale bread tossed on the table, but were asked if they wanted bread.

The nasty man from the front earlier was one of the waiters and does speak English, so he could have yelled at us in English. Thankfully, he wasn't our waiter. Our waiter wasn't rude but he did need a shower.

We weren't pissed at Dal Toscana until we checked the bill and saw the bread charge and the service charge. (These are posted IF you really look for them, but they are BS). I doubt any of the non-Americans saw these charges on their bills. We were still cold and Chaz' shoes were soaking. I was in no mood to fight and my throat still felt like someone was trying to strangle me. I just wanted to get out of there.
So we left and I am sure they were thrilled.

We read the reviews for this restaurant on Trip Advisor and every American that posted reported terrible service. The other reviews are good, but they aren't from Americans.

If I had a lot of money, I would fill the place up with Americans just to aggravate them . That must be their idea of hell. LOL.

So, skip Dal Toscana...I am sure they won't care but it seems really sad. This is the only truly negative experience we had anywhere in Rome.

Back to the hotel to dry our feet and warm back up. And start the packing process. We bought more on this trip than we usually do and we had a busy Saturday ahead. Chaz took a nap and I packed as much as I could.

We had made a reservation a few days before at Glass. We had to go back. Who cares about crappy Dal Toscana....we were going back to Glass! I could not wait to get that amazing ravioli again.

The usual prosecco before dinner and with the clouds moving out, we had our best view of Rome for the entire trip.

They remembered us at Glass and we chose to sit at our same table in the center of the restaurant. We had a little trouble figuring out which wine we had on our previous visit. We thought it had been a franciacorta but it was another kind of sparkling wine. We liked it and got it again.

Now, I knew I was getting that parmesan ravioli and semifreddo for dessert. I just had to figure out the main. Chaz knew he was getting the beef tartare and the semifreddo. He just had to figure out the starter. Cristina Bowerman came over to welcome us back....she is just great!

We got a kick out of our server, who was always smiling and upbeat. She would walk over and say, "I am here for you". Not sure what her first language is but it is not English. She was very cute.

Chaz chose an very unusual starter....potatoes baked in clay with a sea urchin sauce. It was two blue potatoes with the sauce and served with edible silver. Like a super special, gorgeous baked potato and quite good!

My ravioli was still the best pasta I have ever had....shoulda jut gotten 3 orders of that! But, I got lobster with mango suace for my main and it was terrific. Chaz got the tartare, and again it didn't disappoint. Top of the roller coaster! I LOVE Glass.

We both got the semifreddo for dessert. This time some rose petals added to the herbs on top. This is the most refreshing dessert ever. But, I was fading fast after the short night of sleep from the previous day.

I could not wait to get back to the hotel and get to bed. I was exhausted.

I got into bed...and my stomach really started to hurt. Very unusual for me. It hadn't felt right for a good part of the day.

And, then before I knew it, I plummeted down the Rome roller-coaster again. No, please, no!!

I will only say that every time I thought it was over and I could finally go to sleep, it would start again as soon as my eyelids drooped. At one point, I just laid down on the bathroom floor and stayed in there for about 2 hours. (This is getting to be a habit for at least one of us on our past 3 trips to Europe).

The good news, is that Chaz never knew what was going on and I didn't disturb his night's sleep. No point in both of us being awake all night, besides the fact that it was not a glamorous night for me.

My head was spinning with thoughts of "I can't miss Borghese Gallery", "I Can't miss Sparkling Saturday at VinoRoma", " I still haven't gotten to try a Franciacorta yet"', "how will I get Chaz to go, if I can't leave beautiful bathroom?"

So, that's where I will leave you, middle of the night on the gorgeous marble floor in room 656 of the Hilton Cavalieri. The end of the roller-coaster Friday in Rome. The highs were high and the lows were low!

Up next: The Last Day...in Rome or in the room?

The pictures...some are blurry but I couldn't bear to delete them! I think the link or album is misnamed as day 7...it is day 8.

http://photobucket.com/rome2012day7

Roller coaster is right! What a day you had! Hope the last day was better.

I'm enjoying your report, and I love your writing style.

BTW I have a sheltie dog too. Sweetest little OCD dog ever.

Thanks...I grew up with Goldens but have had Shelties all of my adult life. They are so smart and sweet. The two we have now are a handful but we love our girls. Both are rescue pups from Sheltie Rescur of Georgia!

Not sure if I will get the last day's report up today or not!

"Come on, man"! You are too funny! At least you didn't have "replacement" guides. I am so enjoying this report and taking copious notes. Thanks.

Awesome, willowjane! Love it when the pop culture references are understood! No replacement guides, but it did make me kinda want to replace some fellow tour group members!

I am glad you are enjoying the report and more importantly, I hope it helps you with your trip. I have learned so much from the forum and a great trip is the payoff here.

Now, it is time to work on the last day!

The Last Day - Borghese Gallery and a Sparkling finish!

As my night in the bathroom dragged on, I just willed myself not to be too sick! I had to find a way out of the marble mausoleum to go see the great Bernini marble statues at Borghese Gallery.  We had 11:00am reservations, so I had some time to pull it together.

I finally got back in bed at around 6:00am and got a little cat nap, I think.  I thought it might be over, finally. A few hours passed and all was well. 

We started our last day, the way we had begun them all.  Chaz would check and be sure that I wouldn't kill him for turning the TV on and then turn it on.  The hotel channel always came on and there was Renaissance music that played in the background while the video showed off the fantastic property.  I don't know why we thought this was so funny to do everyday, but that was the ritual and the official signal that it was time to roll out of bed and explore Rome.

This was the last day for amazeballs and the leisurely coffee sipping. I wish I could have packed in more, but I decided to go very light.  A little toast, two amazeballs, water and banana.  Arrivederci, amazeballs!

We walked around the hotel grounds and the day was spectacular! It was cloudless and cooler. You know it's going to warm up but you know it is not going to be hot! Perfect weather.

Off we went to Borghese Gallery.  We picked up our tickets and walked over to deposit my purse.  Now, I really wished I could speak Italian.  There was a little Italian man giving the bag check attendants hell about something.  (Picture Junior Soprano for this one). This went on for awhile and one of them called me to the counter but Junior stepped in front of me and kept putting some kind of hex or curse on them (that's what it sounded like). I finally had to muscle my way up the to leave my bag and he was still going at it and he kind of shoved me, but realized his beef wasn't with me, smiled at me, held up his hand, and then turned back to keep berating the bag check staff.

We wandered and watched the dogs play in the park and then decided to go line up.  My plan was to go straight to the Bernini favs, "Apollo and Daphne" and "The Rape of Proserpina" first. We were one of the first let in and that's just what we did.

We went to "proserpina" first.  Now, I know what everyone has been talking about.  The attention to detail is remarkable.  We especially noted how her skin appeared to be pressed in, where Pluto's hands were digging into her skin.  It really is incredible to see. The tears on her face, the barking Cerberus dog...all the detail is impressive.

We admired this work of art and had it all to ourselves.  We moved on to Apollo and Daphne.  I am amazed how someone can tell that story by carving a marble statue .  Her fingers turning into leaves, the bark around her legs...again no detail was overlooked by Bernini.  And we had this work of art essentially to ourselves.

We also enjoyed David and the Canova carving of Pauline Bonaparte.  The entire collection is worth seeing, but we preferred the statues to the paintings in this gallery.  I can't believe that a year ago, I had never heard of the Borghese Gallery! Thanks again to my Fodor's friends for pointing me in the direction of this magnificent gallery.

We strolled around and watched one of the ubiquitous Roman weiner dogs jump in a little waterfall to cool off. Hilarious!

We were both a little hungry and we decided we had to have one last Roman pizza lunch from Roscioli.  Off we went for one last time to Campo de Fiori. This time, we planned our order more carefully and I got the best pizza of the trip....the pizza pomodoro.  Oh my God, is it good.  The crust is crisp on the outside, but perfectly chewy.  It has been well brushed with olive oil and there is a little bit of parmesan cheese baked onto it.  Then the small tomatoes and some basil. I couldn't eat too much of it but it is pizza perfection.

Sadly, we needed to finish packing as our car from Rome Cabs would be at the hotel at 6am to pick us up. 

We spent some time packing and I went to my best friend, Adriano, to get our boarding passes printed.  He is the best concierge...every hotel should have an Adriano.

One last trip up to the Imperial Club for the great view and an espresso before heading to VinoRoma for Sparkling Saturday.

We had fun with our cab driver on the way to VinoRome, as he was not quite sure where it is...but we found it and he seemed pleased. It's on a little street that doesn't have much around it.

We walked in the door at 5pm on the dot. Our Sparkling wine tasting was with Hande, who is Turkish and married to a German living in Rome. She is tons of fun and incredibly knowledgable. We were there with a couple from Northern California. They were also a great couple to taste with.   We are always running across someone from Pittsburgh and the husband in the other couple was from the 'burgh, as is Chaz. They go to Italy every year and she was really good at picking out the undertones of the wines.

We tasted 5 Italian sparkling wines.  The first was a single fermented wine...the first I have ever had. Very few bubbles, unusual...totally different than anything I have had. Nothing I need to drink again, but still interesting to have had.   Metado Rurale 2010 by Fratelli Cosmo.

The second wine was Belecasel Asolo extra dry Prosecco. Very nice, nothing not to like here....you probably already know form our report...we like our prosecco.

The third was Diol from Bellenda made from Raboso grapes. Very good, drinkable spumante.

Our fourth wine was a very dry Franciacorta.  A vintage year (2006) and it was my favorite of the night.  In fact, this wine was bone dry and so very delicious. My first and favorite Franciacorta, 100% Chardonnay from Il Mosnel winery.

Our last wine was Chaz' favorite. I would have thought it would be mine because it was a Franciacorta Rose. Dry, but not as dry as the previous wine and it was delicious. Chaz really loved it.  It was made from Pinot Nero grapes, 2007 Ferghettina a female wine maker in a square bottomed bottle.

We all chose our favorite and Hande poured us a glass of our favorite. I only regret not being able to drink more.  I was definitely feeling like a lightweight, as I had not had much food that day!  It really did break my heart to pour out some of wine, but I think it is poor form to get plastered at a wine tasting!

We had so much fun talking about travel, what airs with the wines and the fact that both of these men from Pittsburgh hate ketchup! Don't tell the people at Heinz!

We ended with a look around downstairs in the century old wine cellar (caves).  Incredible to see. Hande showed us some of her favorite bottles, many are Austrian!  Very International!  It was wild to be down in this area that dates back 1000 years.

We thanked Hande and our fellow tasters for a great night.  We had a dinner reservation and I hate to say it, but we couldn't find it! New part of Rome for us and well, we did it again. We got lost and could not find the restaurant.  It really was OK, because I was still not 100% and was pretty tired from two nights of limited sleep.

We ate at the most touristy spot but our food was good.   Our favorite thing to do, split a pizza and pasta.  Margherita and carbonara....not bad at all.  And they weren't rude like at Dal Toscana!  We ate quickly as we wanted to get to bed a little early and had some final things to pack.  We went pretty hard the whole time we were in Rome. We didn't need a big last night.

I still can't believe the trip has come and gone already.  We had a great time in Rome. It's an incredible city and we saw some amazing things.  I think we saw a lot,  especially for our first trip there.  We had incredible luck on this trip, we got lost more than on any other trip and we may have walked more on this trip than on any other.  

Next up: Getting out of Rome and some final thoughts!

ttt

Not many photos from the last day....no photos allowed at Borghese Gallery.

http://s1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/Rome2012-day9/

Denise,

i loved your report and it is making me so very anxious for our trip in March. We were supposed to go last March but had to cancel as my husband had a little cancer scare. Fortunately, things turned out well and he is ok. We are planning a 2 week Rome-Sicily-Paris vacation. We had the entire trip planned last year including a Scavi Tour which we had already booked and paid for so we will denifitely go this time. The Borghese is lovely. We went there in 2010 on our previous trip to Rome and were just blown away by the Bernini sculptures. I am looking at a poster of Daphne and Apollo right now in my office. Looking at your pictures, I just saw one in Campo di Fiori if the Hotel Campo di Fiori where we plan to stay in March. I cannot wait. So glad you had a wonderful time.

Oh, lrock...what a great trip! Curious to see your thoughts on that hotel....we would love to be so close to Roscioli and Forno. I woild love to hit Rome and Paris in one trip. We had a fantastic time.

Glad your husband is OK and hope that your trip will be wonderful. i already can't wait to read the trip report!

Great report, denisea. Thanks for sharing

The trip home and some final thoughts about Rome...

We were up on time and listened to the trip "wake up call" one last time....bye bye Renaissance music!

Our car and driver from Rome Cabs was downstairs when we got down there. The hotel had the bill printed and it was correct. True to their word, the breakfast really was FREE, internet charges had been removed....the hotel was really first rate in every way.

I forgot to mention that we had a bottle of prosecco and red wine left in our room by the hotel staff on different days. Nice!

We had an uneventful trip to FCO and were dropped off at terminal 5. And then, it got a little interesting.  The flight left at 9:40am and we got to the airport at 6:30.  No one from the airlines is even there.  You line up behind the sign of your airline and flight number and wait.  

They staff filters in and then they hand out plastic bags for you to put all you electronics in. Never heard of this and it is kinda irritating to have packed your bags and then have to find all your electronics and drag them out. Maybe that info could show up on the boarding pass or somewhere, so you can leave all that crap somewhere you can find it all easily.

Then they look at a few passports and you wait a little more.  Then they finally give you a sticker on the back of the passport and let you go around the corner. To wait in line again at the main airline counter.  Your passport is checked again and then they print you another boarding pass (not sure why I bothered printing one at the hotel).

Then over to security....which doesn't open for twenty more minutes.  So the line piles up again behind you.  You get everything ready and then they finally open. The security part was the easiest part and yep, they check the passport again (that's 3 times).  Re-pack all the electronics again.

Next up, immigration...quick and passport check #4.  Then you get on a bus, wait for the bus to fill up and you get trucked out to the terminal.

Thank God my Delta status got us through the lines quickly and into the Alitalia lounge.  Some last espressos for Chaz, coke light for me and some commercial cornetti.  It's nice to have someplace to go besides the gate.  

Time came and we headed to gate.  No upgrade this time (is anyone that lucky?).  The usual crush of Medallion members and people who have walked all over Rome, who suddenly need wheelchairs.  I find that boarding in Europe is always a bit more chaotic than in the US. There was a passenger at the front of the line who decided to quiz and check everyone boarding to be sure they were in first class....she would be the first Sky Priority member to board! No one was getting ahead of her. 

The fifth and sixth passport checks were at the gate, as we boarded. Chaz ended up being the baggage handler for every woman around us on the plane.  My motto is..."if I can't carry myself, I don't take it!" I think I am alone in that line of thinking.

The flight back was long but we are getting better at the 9-10 hour flights.  The food wasn't bad.  We landed on time and Chaz unloaded everything for all the women around us.

The immigration line was awful but there was no separate customs check. They asked customs questions in immigration and then took up the forms as you left the area (now would have been the time to load up on all those questionable items)!

The down side of the new international terminal in Atlanta...you have to take a shuttle to the parking deck and we waited a while.  Not cool...more shuttles please!  The drive home went fast and our Shelties were so glad to see us.  

Thoughts on Rome:

Love:
Love the way you can fill up your water bottle at fountains all over Rome
Speaking of that, I love the fountains all over Rome!
Pizza! Prosecco!
Wow sites around every corner....ancient ruins all over the place!
Hearing "Prego" all the time!
The coffee and espresso

Didn't love:
All the smokers everywhere...both trips to Italy, I have noticed the smoking is insane and everywhere (I hate to be around it....stops my nose up for hours)
Cigarette butts and broken glass (see above) everywhere
Aggressive tour guides, gladiators and "train station teens"
The signs pointing to the nearest McDonald's in the high traffic areas

The Top Ten!
Vatican Museums
Orvieto
Villa d'Este at night
Galleria Doria Pamphilj, especially the hall of mirrors
Walking out onto the stage of the Coliseum
Borghese Gallery
Sparkling Saturday at VinoRoma
Dinner(s) at Glass
The food tour in Campo de Fiori
Scavi tour/Vatican Necropolis

Next time....
Central Rome hotel (in no way were we disappointed with Rome Cavalieri)
Castel sant'Angelo
Appian Way
Capitoline Museums
Santa Cecilia
Farnese Gardens
San Giovanni in Laterano
Villa Farnesina
Villa d'Este during the day

Recommendations:

Rome Cabs...would use again! Very reliable and they follow up with you about your service and thank you for responding to them. Very customer service oriented. Easy to book online and can prepay with PayPal.

Elizabeth Minchilli for food tours or workshops.
VinoRoma for wine tasting.
Daniella Hunt for private tours.

La Gensola for seafood.
Glass for a "foodie" heaven dinner.
Forno for pizza bianca.
Marco Roscioli for pizza pomodoro.

Thanks again for the safety pin trick. We used it and it made us feel less worried about pickpockets! I used a small, flat purse with 3 compartments and  used the safety pin on the zipper pulls, to make it harder to open fast. Chaz used them on his pockets and we didn't get pick pocketed.  Maybe we didn't encounter any pickpockets but it did make us feel more secure. 

We were very lucky on this trip, as you know! I forgot to mention that I had been looking for a book prior to the trip and could not find it! I spotted it at the airport and was in line to buy it, when the cashier said " that book is on the 50% off shelf" and pointed it out. I got it for half price! The stars were aligned because I did lots of dumb stuff and it all worked out.  I think next time, I will start using the purse before I leave for vacation.  I think the new surroundings and the change in purse/routine contributed to the dumb stuff I did!

We loved our hotel and the staff. One really good thing about a large hotel is the ability to get change!  In Europe, we always get stuck with 50 euro bills from ATMs and no one wants them!  I used them at tourist sites to buy tickets.  Otherwise, we had to change them out at the hotel cashier, which you can't do when you rent an apartment or are staying in a smaller hotel, as much.

We prefer to use our Amex as much as possible! (more points for more future travel). Amex is less accepted in Rome as it is in Paris, but Mastercard and Visa are always easier to use in Europe. I know Amex is more expensive for the merchant. Our Amex and the MC (Captial One) we use have no foreign transaction fees.

We had great weather, just one cold rainy day.  It was hot in the sun the first part of the week and that was harder for Chaz than for me.  Many thanks to the Fodorite who mentioned taking sunscreen...we were glad we had it!

We really enjoyed Rome.  I am not sure how to compare it to Paris....I think we may give the edge to Paris, but we want to go back to Rome, also.  We can't put our finger on describing Rome. I think we don't know it as well.  We walked a lot in Rome and my God, my feet have never been dirtier! I am interested to hear other thoughts on Rome and Paris....Maybe you can't pick a favorite, like with your children (unless you are Kris Jenner).  

I did pitch a coin in the Trevi fountain, which should guarantee my return to Rome.  And, I do want to return...will that be the next trip? back to Paris?both? Somewhere new? 

A link to photo of our Shelties for you dog lovers...they are glad their parents are home!
http://i1265.photobucket.com/albums/jj506/deniseadamson/missy%20and%20ally/2068a46a353c2054e24f18e36a19fc25_zpsec2e2cfa.jpg

Denise,

We too use our American Express for everything so that I can bank points for future travel use. I will most definitely write a review of Hotel Campo di Fiori when we return. They were so lovely when we had to cancel at the last minute last March. It is a little more expensive than we are used to paying for a hotel but we want to stay in the center of Rome and the reviews for the hotel are ridiculously good so we can't wait. Luckily for us we were able to spend last Christmas in Paris so we are not having total Paris withdrawals right now. But, we are adding the last 5 days of the trip to Paris because we just love it that much. We stay in a friend's apartment in the 15th and have grown to love the neighborhood so much.

We are just waiting for Le Comptoir and Reed. We ate at both last Christmas and loved Reed. We have been to Le Comptoir before and we plan to go on every trip from now on. We also like L'os a Moelle. Our friend told us to go there for a treat and it was the best meal of that trip. We were unable to go over Christmas as it was closed for the holidays. The new owner I believe used to be a chef at the Crillon. We also ate at L'Atelier and I have never been more intimidated in my life in a restaurant. We plan to go back now that we have the butterflies worked out!

We did throw a coin into the Trevi Fountain in 2010 also so I guess it works. Come on March!!!!


Lisa

I've spent all this rainy Saturday reading this most wonderful trip report and looking at your pictures! What a treat it's been! We have trouble tearing ourselves away from Paris on our few trips abroad, but you just may have convinced me...it's time to take the Roman plunge. Thanks so much for taking the time (and it took lots of it) to write such completely enjoyable entries, and sharing your trip with us. It was delightful!

Denise:

Great read! So enjoyed tagging along. Looking forward to meeting for a drink someday...like at Danton...

Oh, lrock....great Paris restaurant choices! We haven't been to L'os a Moelle but know that gracejoan loves it. L'Atelier is our favorite....no need to be intimidated. If yiu are there try the Bruno Paillard champagne!

OO....we know ya mean and we are missing Paris but Rome is worth a visit, for sure. Thanks for your kind comments!

Weekender....would love to meet anywhere for a drink (sorry Asheville didn't work out) but Le Danton would totally work! You know we love that corner amd Le Danton is a fav! Hope you are well!

Irock... did you mean L'Atelier du Joel Robuchon on Montalambert? We twice stayed at the Hotel Pont Royal and twice dined at L'Atelier .. both times it was great fun. If anybody can be intimidated by "fancy" places it is I..... and that was certainly not the case. The first time the waiter even gave me extra mashed potatoes. (If you had them you'll know what I mean!)

Of course, we did have a lot of wine.. -... and said.. price be damned. A bit of a shock when we got home and opened the VISA bill.

Dang, have been there twice and not been fortunate enough to have those famous mashed potatoes.... Good work Gwendolynn! You pretty much do have to go the price be damned theme while at Joel Robuchon, but it is worth it! We still Talk about the amazing gazpacho with mustard sorbet!

Gwendolyn,

Oh but yes did we have the mashed potatoes and they even offered more if we wanted. They really are the best in the world. I don't know what it was but I was a little nervous there. The bill as not as bad as I thought it would be but we knew we may be laying down some serious cash there.

Denise-I cannot wait for Italy (no matter how much I love Paris) as I love Prosecco. We discovered it on our trip a few years ago and had a bottle last night with dinner. Here in Southeast Texas wine is not the big thing to drins so it took a few trips for us to truly understand its value. A few years ago my husband and daughter had a lengthy wine tasting at the wine shop down the street from our friend's apartment. I didn't participate as I had a stomache from too many macaroons. Will definitely try the Chanpagne at L'Atelier.

My husband has distant family on Sicily (his grandfather grew up there) so we are excited about that too. If you have never been Sicily is wonderful, it's a whole different world.

Lisa

Great report. I'm struck by what totally different weather we have last September in Rome. Thank goodness for layers.

Like returning to Paris, you will love going back to Rome. Last year was our return trip, and so we spent more time just enjoying being in the city (like we do in Paris, where we've been 5-6 times). They are both fabulous cities.

Lisa....we are interested in Siciliy. I have read a few T/R s on Sicily and the pictures looking amazing.

If you have a chance, consider the Sparkling Saturday (or any tasting) at VinoRoma! Really a good time.

Uh_oh...I am struck by the huge change in one day on our trip. It has hot, not awful, but plenty hot....and one cloudy off and on rainy day while we were in Orvieto, and then cold! Rainy and cold....I couldn't believe I was cold, in Rome, in September! Who woulda thougt? But I am sure you are right about revisiting both cities, not a bad problem to have.

We are also interested in the tour guide you had for the Vatican Museums. We usually skip tours but it sounded great. To be able to see the Sistine Chapel without being crushed by the crowd would be worth every penny.

Lisa....totally worth every dime! I am not a big tour person, but am learning that a small group or private guide can make all the difference in the experience you have at some sites. With Hadrian's Villa/Villa d'Este and the Vatican Museums, having a guide made it soooo much better. We wouldn't have known what we were looking at or the story behind it without Daniella and Stuart.

Stuart is a great guide and the difference between being in the SC at 8:15 vs. 10:45 is huge. I can't recommend it highly enough. Plus, he knew guards that let us take some time saving short cuts on the way back to the start of the museum....i feel like we squeezed the most out of every dime and every second.

We will be in Rome for 5 days so I definitely think we should plan on the tour guide route. We also plan on the Scavi Tour. My sister-in-law is coming with us and she has never been so we will hit the regular tourist spots with her and I also want to explore Trastevere as we never made it there last time. We stayed across the street from the Vatican Museums on our last trip and it was nice but we want to be inthe center of Rome. I just looked back through your day at the Vatican Museums with Stuart but I did not see where you found him other than Tripadvisor. Funny you mentioned WEB MD there as my husband's surgeon told me to quit looking at it last year when all of the health scare was going on as he said "it is not your friend". But, you just can't help yourseld when you are scared.

I did contact Walks of Italy and requested him as a guide.
I had asked some other questions about the tour and what their policy is regarding late comers, as I did not want to be waiting on someone that couldn't get out of bed and to the meeting place on time.

I only knew about Stuart because of reviews on Trip Advisor.

"Yes, the circle is complete...I have become my mother."
No.....the circle is complete when you look in the mirror, after sounding like your mother and you see you actually look like your mother LOL.

Enjoying your report and it has given me my little push...17 days of notes, receipts, postcards, copies of emails sent home, etc. piled on my desk just waiting to be compiled in to a cohesive trip report about our adventure in Rome last month.

Hi Denise!
Thanks for a wonderful report.Rome is a true jewel as Paris or London.Now; I am salivating as I remember all the food around Campo dei Fiori!

TTT

Great report! We liked Rome a lot on our first visit but it wasn't until our second time there that we really fell totally in love with her. I do hope you go again soon and stay at the wonderful del Senato - I think you will really like it. Can't wait to read about your next adventure wherever it is!

Hi LuvToRoam....c'mon now, get on it! I have to do my T/R asap, as I forget a lot and very quickly! Although, I have to say that I will never look like my mother as I am essentially the female face of my father.

I know, jelopez...I am really missing my Roman pizza. We also miss our fab view of Rome with a glass of prosecco!

Thanks john183...I am sure we will be back. I even picked up a historical fiction book set in Rome and around the Borgias, while traveling this week.This is what I do when I start to get obsessed about a city I like! And, I can't be without a vacation to plan for too long! In fact, I can't wait to see where we go next.

What's next for you?

Thanks denisea! Such a great report - I wonder how many of us are now planning a"next trip" to Rome because of you ;o)
I agree regarding the guide. We have been to Rome just twice for a total of 8 days (not enough) and both times we visited the Forum on our own. I found it fascinating, although I didn't know a fraction of what it was I was seeing. Definitely seeking out a private guide next time for the Forum and Palatine! Thanks again for the great report.

First, thanks for your report. We were in Rome last year and went to a few restaurants/cafes you mentioned. I love pizza bianca if it's made correctly. In the States, most people throw alfredo sauce or ranch (UGH) dressing on a shell, top it with onions and garlic and think it's white pizza. In our Italian household, it was dough, olive oil, salt & pepper. Oooh, I may have to make some.

BTW . . . Rome is quite a maze, but the worst we've ever experienced was Prague. . . and the food there doesn't make up for getting lost.

No thanks necessary, for some reason I love wrting a trip report! I love it when anyone is inspired by my reports. I certainly have been inspired by so many reports and they all have helped make our trips better.

Hanabilly, i can't recommend Danniella Hunt enough as a private guide. She is incredibly knowledgable and just a ton of fun. We will definitely use her again.

Chris...I would kill to have that oizza bianca from Forno again. Sheer perfection and the most simple recipe but exquisite results. I don't know how I will manage to eat pizza here. Everything will fall short and I know what you mean about white pizza in the US....but no one here could even dream of making pizza withour tossing a pound of "cheese" on it. I would gag if I ate ranch dressing on pizza!

Oh, to be in Rome!

I need a vacation to plan for too. When I'm asked what my hobbies are, the only thing I can truthfully answer is planning vacations to Europe. I tend to get a lot of funny looks from people when I say that but I guess it' my form of escape therapy - it seems to relieve stress and I really enjoy it. Plus at the end of it I get a great trip to Europe!

Sadly we have no vacations on the horizon and most of our time in 2013 is probably going to be spent dealing with both our Mom's life and health issues. So that means I'll have to travel vicariously by reading great trip reports like yours from wherever you go next year. So get cracking and start the planning process for your next trip, OK? LOL!!!

You sure are fast with your oh so interesting trip reports. We haven't been to Rome in 10 years but your detailed stories interest us in a repeat someday.

We're home from France a couple of weeks and I'm still getting photos together. It seemed to take longer than usual to catch up on things when we returned. I would think------Well, I'll just check in on Fodors and see what's new. Then I'd get started reading a trip report like yours and get lost in the fun of your adventure.

Your photos are great and I enjoyed your ins and outs of Rome.

We're thinking of Venice for our next trip? Any thoughts on the table for you?

John183....not sure, but we have some home projects and maintenance that we need to get to work on. We may have to skip a year. We'll have to see what happens...maybe Europe in Spring 2014.

It's fun to see how many of us have gotten lost along the way inpractically every city in the world! I still don't know how we do it while holding a map!

Hi TPAYT....I am not sure where we will head next...but as you saw above, we have some other things that will pull $ away from the travel budget! Rome again, Paris again, Provence, Venice, Amalfi....London???? I wish I would win the lottery....we could leave tomorrow and go to all of them! I look forward to reading your report!

Perhaps on your next trip you should begin your trip report photos with a shot like this
http://tinyurl.com/itsthatway
Regards, Walter

Thanks for the laugh, Walter... at the end of a trying day.

LOL.....thanks Walter! The sad, but funny picture for us would be that we would be in agreement on which way to go! (With a map, but we would still be wrong).

Denise - loving your report, and I'm so glad you enjoyed the doria pamphilji so much. that accent, BTW, isn't just english - it's a very upper-class public school accent - I'd guess Eton.

Thanks annhig...pretty sure you were one of the reasons we even knew to go there. We absolutely loved it and I have no doubt that's a very well educated accent!

Denisea, thanks so much for your fantastic report from your Rome trip!!! As we read it, we reminisced about some favorite experiences from our trips to Rome. And we got some ideas for a future trip. As you mentioned, for those of us who love to travel, there are so many places on our wish lists. Paris and Rome, though very different, are two of our favorites, and we find ourselves wanting to return to both.

You guys certainly had your share of "mishaps" in Rome to make up for a number of years. But you seemed to weather things with good humor and not let the incidents get in the way of your enjoyment. Your whole report, including your recounting of these experiences, was very entertaining. You have a great writing style!

It's taken us some time to respond, as we've been traveling, though not to Europe. We've been enjoying the beautiful foliage in NH and the coast of Maine. This time next fall we hope to be in Europe again; not sure where yet. But, as you express, the planning is fun.

Thanks again for sharing your wonderful trip to Rome!!!

Great to hear from you tomarkot! We definitely made the best of all the wrong turns and goof ups in Rome. I am already ready to go back to Rome and have been missing Paris for months!

I have never been up to New England and would love to do that (and about a million other things I don't have the time or $ to do)!

Thanks for your very kind comments!

Denisea, I've been re-reading your great T/R and again thoroughly enjoying it! We, too, have some home projects requiring $$ and time, affecting travel plans. But, like you, we have our list of places we'd like to visit. And it's fun to reminisce about some of our favorite places. We've been toying around with using some FF miles for a mid-March trip to southern Spain, hoping to combine some warmer weather with cultural experiences. We've been to Spain, and really liked it. But considering the threats of strikes there, we may just put those plans on hold.

Until we touch base again online, we wish you guys a "Happy Thanksgiving"!

Thanks! We are looking forward to Thanksgiving although we are jealous of some of our Fodorite friends who will be in Rome and Paris over the holiday. We are starting the Christmas trees this weekend- god, help me! Saw a bottle of Orvieto Classico at the store today and had to buy it.....will reminisce a bit over our great day there! (Had a pain au chocolat for breakfast this AM, so I am in the mood to love and miss Europe today)!

All the best to you for a warm, and pleasurable holiday! So great to hear from you....I love all my Fodorite friends!

Gosh this is good! I'm really enjoying your trip Denise, thank you so much for all the details & links.

Thanks! Always good if a report is enjoyed or if it helps someone. We had a great time in Rome and the surrounding areas.

What a great trip report! I was just going to add to the "why can't I fall in love with Paris" thread that I feel that way about Rome. But then I read your trip report and decided that I need to visit Rome again with more time to spare so that I can get lost in the miriad of streets.

Fantastic account of your Roma adventures. There was so much vicarious enjoyment for me - and lots of others. Rome became my most unfavourite city some years ago, after our minibus was stolen at a supermarket. The Mafia also took all our belongings for a family of 8's camping trip for 3 months. We found out it was the Mafia, as they used it to rob a bank, for which Interpol interviewed us! So, a few years later my family dragged me back to Rome for a day plus Tivoli. It was OK but I still found Rome disconcerting. However, your report has inspired me that our trip to Rome in January for a few days may even be enjoyable. So thank you.

Rome is just a tougher, grittier city but I did enjoy it. We had to laugh at how much we got lost and how much dumb stuff I did! We not have anything stolen (quite the opposite) or have any interaction with the Mafia...but we do want to go back and revisit it! So, Kurosawa we both have to go back and Susannah I do hope you enjoy your trip in January.

Denise,

We just got our confirmation and paid for our Scavi tour last week. We are going to book the Vatican Museum tour through Walks of Italy also. Thanks so much for the recommendation and for all of the great information in your trip report. I am excited about Rome and Sicily but I CANNOT wait to be back in Paris!! Come on March.