Friday the 13th of May
Normally I’m not superstitious, but this Friday the 13th might make me a believer. This was the 10th day of our trip, and everything had been going almost perfectly SO FAR. Until today.
Around noon we went to the bus station to get tickets for San Gimignano and not only wouldn’t anyone even try to help us, but it was the first totally rude behavior on our entire trip (so far trip…finally realized we missed the bus to S.G. so I asked about P. They said, “tren, tren” so after much trouble finding the right bus and figuring out how to get bus tickets to the train station, we get there and guess what—there’s a Friday the 13th train strike!
Fortunately we were rescued by an English-speaking angel (seems these angels seem to appear throughout my travels, even on Friday the 13th) and turns out buses depart from the bus station, so we buy tickets for the next bus out—to Pienza. About an hour later we were in this perfect Tuscan village, admittedly almost “too perfect”—a touristy, but perfect just the same. The sun was shining, warm, but not too warm, the trees blooming, the flowerpots boasting perfect rhodies, azaleas, geraniums, etc.
So, what started out as a “Friday the 13th” was turning into a Fabulous Friday until I sat down in the perfect town park to write in my sketchbook/journal, and guess what? It ‘s gone! After retracing my steps, I figured I must have left it on the bus! Gone are my months of research notes plus my detailed notes of what we had done so far I planned to share with my fellow Fodorites, gone, Gone! So I will try my best to recollect our trip up to this point.
Day 1—May 4—Seattle—Amsterdam—Northwest
Thanks to Fodors, got bulkhead (seatguru.com) and had a good flight over, meeting a really terrific woman named Lynn from Seattle who was going bicycling in France. (Unfortunately her e-mail address was lost with my journal!) Talking with her, sharing notes about previous trips, etc. was chatting on Fodors, and it made the trip go so much faster. I think the No Jet Lag helped too.
May 5—Schiphol airport was a breeze compared to Heathrow. Took train to city, then checked into the Renaissance (booked at $102 on Priceline.) They claim it’s a 5 star, but I’d say maybe a 3+ star, but the location is great and the free chocolate was a real plus. Also, the complimentary coffee in the morning was a real perk.
Bought 72 hour Amsterdam card (main tourist office line was enormous, so I stepped out to the next building and got in a very short line and had the passes minutes later.) Went directly to Van Gogh Museum and let myself be thrilled as always with his art. Whenever and wherever I go to museums, I bring a sketchbook and sketch. First I walk around and spend time with all the paintings (well, not always all—this would hardly be possible at the Louve or other huge museums), then I pick a few of my favorites to go back and sketch. Let me tell you, this was very difficult at the Van Gogh—there are just TOO MANY excellent paintings there! (No, I’m not complaining.) I did manage to limit it to a few, but can’t tell you which ones they were now because, as you already know, I lost my sketchbook!
Between the Van Gogh and Reijksmuseum the plaza was full of people, music, and celebration. Turns out this was Independence Day! The energy in the plaza was terrific and it was fun to be a part of it.
The Reiksmuseum wasn’t as crowded as the Van Gogh, and I fell in love with 2 of the Rembrandts.
Took the canal cruise and met Eleana from Paris, who has friends here in Seattle. She was delightful (and fortunately has e-mailed me), otherwise there would have been no way for me to keep in touch with her.
Went to dinner at an Indonesia restaurant, which had been recommended here and in was very disappointing, but I didn’t expect great food in Amsterdam. I’ll try an find the name (took some matches, but can’t find them as they’re not allowed through security…)
Day 3—May 6--Walked down to Stedelijk where they had a special exhibition entitled Leporello, a tour through the collection from 1874-2004. The exhibition runs chronologically, with a work chosen for each year. Easy choice for my painting here—the deKooning hidden away in a corner. DeKooning is one of my favorite artists and I spent a long time with this painting. There was also a lovely, though not one of his best, Monet, and a Renoir sculpture.
Went over to the Botanical Garden, which is small, but has a great variety, including a tropical solarium and a butterfly room which was just delightful.
When in Amsterdam…we decided to find the coffee house which came highly recommended (every pun intended) and managed to find it. Really, you can’t miss them—you can smell them before you see them. We didn’t want to deal with traffic and finding our way back to the hotel, so we bought a piece of hash cake, picked up some cheese and herring on the street, and went back to the room. I had ¼ piece and was flying, Bill had ½ and didn’t feel it at all (he claims it was the placebo effect for me, but I think believe me, this was no placebo effect!).
When I was finally able to walk, we went on the night canal cruise, which would
have be fun high or not.
Next day…on to Venice…
Day 4—May 7
In planning this trip, going from one canal city to another really appealed to me. And this proved to be true. Ah Venizia. This is simply one place I never am disappointed in. I feel as if I could walk the streets forever. Especially since I don’t have to worry about getting hit by a car or a bicycle. And the light. Everyone talks about the light, and that’s because it’s true. Everything about it is simply magical to me. And this time it’s even better because DD, who is studying Italian in the AHA program in Siena is meeting us here!
We stayed on Lido because the hotel we usually stay at in Venice (Hotel Flora) was totally booked and also, because this trip was costing too much already (originally I planned to stay in an II timeshare on Lido for a week, but even though I requested at the beginning of July for May, we didn’t get it, which put a real damper in the budget), so, upon a great recommendation in Fodors, (so sorry I can’t thank this person, but this too was in my notes and haven’t been able to find who it was on a search…) I booked the Hotel Stella---and was very happy that I did. The only problem was finding it…we took the bus from the vaperetto stop and bypassed it by one stop.
Not only was it a delightful hotel, but our room had a patio, which was such a plus for our reunion with DD. They even had a complimentary bottle of wine waiting for us to celebrate. (Also complimentary bicycles and a boat trip to Murano were included in the price, but we didn’t have time for either…this time…)
We took the vaparretto into town (I really found this to be so much fun!) and had dinner at Bacaro Jazz, at S. Marco 5546 (www.barcarojazz.com) a jazz club recommented here. DH is a jazz musician and I really wanted to go someplace that would make him happy. As it turned out, they didn’t have live jazz that night, but the atmosphere was nice, and the music was jazz, and the food was good, (not great) and inexpensive (for Venice). I was literally blown away by how well DD was speaking Italian—I swear she’s speaking more Italian in 4 weeks of study than I’m able to speak in Spanish after over 2 years of study. I really think immersion is the best way. Of course, it helps that she’s smarter (and younger) than I am, but still…
We roamed the streets after dinner, which is one of the true delights of Venice, just roaming the streets. Before we left, I gave DH a quote, something like: “Don’t worry about getting lost in Venice. You’re supposed to get lost in Venice.” Well, I’m a big believer in this…it’s really part of the magic. (He was actually upset when we were in Seville and it just so happened that our map had north and south reversed…didn’t bother me a bit…)
Day 5—May 8—Mother’s Day
What a wonderful way to spend Mother’s Day! We all wanted to keep things low-keyed, so after a light breakfast at the hotel, (very good croissants, excellent cappocino), we took the vaperetto to town, not all the way in—we went to the park and just walked around. We stayed in the non-touristy areas and picked up a lunch (around 10 Euros for 3) and then DD had to get back to Siena, so we went to the train station with her and saw her off, and then just roamed the streets, took a vaperreto back to Lido and walked the entire length of the island.
Lido is touristy and rather “yuppy-like”, and I wouldn’t recommend it for a first visit, but really, if money is an issue, I’d stay there again.
It was here we started our gelato habit…simply sinful…
We intended to go back to town for dinner, but got distracted, and it was very late so we just went over to a local pizzeria for dinner.
Day 6—May 9
Caught an early vaperretto to town and headed directly to one of my old-time favorites—the Peggy Guggenheim. I don’t recall ever seeing it this crowded, but I enjoyed it just the same. I found a wonderful little art kit in the giftstore, perfect for traveling with oil pastels, colored pencils, and regular pencils in a compact kit.
When DD was in Venice a few weeks ago, she had “gotten lost” and followed music to a Vivaldi concert where they had an exhibition of ancient instruments. DH wanted to see this, so we started following the directions she had given us (or so he thought), and ended up at the bus terminal instead. In all these years I haven’t figured out what he has against asking directions, but I was enjoying “getting lost,” so I just went along with things.
Finally, we were getting a bit frustrated, so I decided to go into a nearby building and get directions, and guess what building I went into—the one we wanted, with the classical instrument exhibition and the Vivaldi music playing in the background (I mistakedly thought this had been a live concert).
Then on to the ghetto, where we got there too late for the last tour, and on to a restaurant that was recommended either here called Ca’ d’Oro, which we had a hard time finding, but were glad we made the effort. Not so much for the food, which was quite good and reasonable (I really liked my squid in black ink although it stained my teeth), but because we met Trixie. Another angel. She was dining solo next to us, we started chatting, and thanks to her, and of course Venice, it turned into quite an enchanted evening.
Trixie is a transplanted Austrian who has lived and traveled all over the world, but now can’t leave Venice. She’s an art consultant for a gallery and is on the organizing committee for the upcoming Biencienial. We hit it off immediately, and she proceeded to take us on a nighttour of Venice that was quite a treat.
As best as my poor memory can recall, I’ll try to share it with you.
The first place she took us is a site I’ve seen in books on Venice, yet haven’t been able to find on my own. Now I know why. It’s hidden away, but well worth the search. The 15th century Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo looks like something out of an Escher painting. The address I found for it in the only guide book among my many (and, believe me, I have many) where it is mentioned (DK travel guides) is Corte Contarni del Bovolo, but believe me, it’s not easy to find…but well worth it, especially at night.
Then Trixie took us on a tour of some of her favorite restaurants, stopped for a guappa at one of the bars, (but, as already noted, I have a very low drug/alcohol tolerance, so ordered a Bellini instead, but they said there’re not in season yet, so they made me a Rosselli instead, which was wonderful—fresh strawberries with???—anyone know?), and then she took us to her favorite hotel where her gallery was housing one of their artists, and fortunately, I kept the pamphlet. This place was breathtaking. I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned in Fodor’s yet, but if money were no object, this would be the place I’d stay. Ca Maria Adele at Dorsoduro 111, on a canal directly across from Santa Maria della Salute. Trixie told me it was only 180 EU, but after checking out their Website, well…it might be that price for HER…They have only been open 2 years and there were a few rooms vacant which she took us to see. WOW! I doubt I could SLEEP in the Sala Del Doge, but it might be ideal for a honeymoon, and the breakfast room was simply stunning, and what a view! Check them out at www.cameriaadele.it.
I really believe there are no coincidences…on the vaperetto on the way back to Lido (where Trixie is staying while she looks for a place in Venice), she said to us, “You know, I was on the bus the day you arrived when you went past your bus stop….”
Next day…on to Siena…
Friday the 13th of May
Normally I’m not Friday the superstitious, but this Friday the 13th might make me a believer. This was the 10th day of our trip, and everything had been going almost perfectly SO FAR. Until today.
Around noon we went to the bus station to get tickets for San Gimignano and not only wouldn’t anyone even try to help us, but it was the first totally rude behavior on our entire trip (so far trip…finally realized we missed the bus to S.G. so I asked about P. They said, “tren, tren” so after much trouble finding the right bus and figuring out how to get bus tickets to the train station, we get there and guess what—there’s a Friday the 13th train strike!
Fortunately we were rescued by an English-speaking angel (seems these angels seem to appear throughout my travels, even on Friday the 13th) and turns out buses depart from the bus station, so we buy tickets for the next bus out—to Pienza. About an hour later we were in this perfect Tuscan village, admittedly almost “too perfect”—a touristy, but perfect just the same. The sun was shining, warm, but not too warm, the trees blooming, the flowerpots boasting perfect rhodies, azaleas, geraniums, etc.
So, what started out as a “Friday the 13th” was turning into a Fabulous Friday until I sat down in the perfect town park to write in my sketchbook/journal, and guess what? It ‘s gone! After retracing my steps, I figured I must have left it on the bus! Gone are my months of research notes plus my detailed notes of what we had done so far I planned to share with my fellow Fodorites, gone, Gone! So I will try my best to recollect our trip up to this point.
Day 1—May 4—Seattle—Amsterdam—Northwest
Thanks to Fodors, got bulkhead (seatguru.com) and had a good flight over, meeting a really terrific woman named Lynn from Seattle who was going bicycling in France. (Unfortunately her e-mail address was lost with my journal!) Talking with her, sharing notes about previous trips, etc. was chatting on Fodors, and it made the trip go so much faster. I think the No Jet Lag helped too.
May 5—Schiphol airport was a breeze compared to Heathrow. Took train to city, then checked into the Renaissance (booked at $102 on Priceline.) They claim it’s a 5 star, but I’d say maybe a 3+ star, but the location is great and the free chocolate was a real plus. Also, the complimentary coffee in the morning was a real perk.
Bought 72 hour Amsterdam card (main tourist office line was enormous, so I stepped out to the next building and got in a very short line and had the passes minutes later.) Went directly to Van Gogh Museum and let myself be thrilled as always with his art. Whenever and wherever I go to museums, I bring a sketchbook and sketch. First I walk around and spend time with all the paintings (well, not always all—this would hardly be possible at the Louve or other huge museums), then I pick a few of my favorites to go back and sketch. Let me tell you, this was very difficult at the Van Gogh—there are just TOO MANY excellent paintings there! (No, I’m not complaining.) I did manage to limit it to a few, but can’t tell you which ones they were now because, as you already know, I lost my sketchbook!
Between the Van Gogh and Reijksmuseum the plaza was full of people, music, and celebration. Turns out this was Independence Day! The energy in the plaza was terrific and it was fun to be a part of it.
The Reiksmuseum wasn’t as crowded as the Van Gogh, and I fell in love with 2 of the Rembrandts.
Took the canal cruise and met Eleana from Paris, who has friends here in Seattle. She was delightful (and fortunately has e-mailed me), otherwise there would have been no way for me to keep in touch with her.
Went to dinner at an Indonesia restaurant, which had been recommended here and in was very disappointing, but I didn’t expect great food in Amsterdam. I’ll try an find the name (took some matches, but can’t find them as they’re not allowed through security…)
Day 3—May 6--Walked down to Stedelijk where they had a special exhibition entitled Leporello, a tour through the collection from 1874-2004. The exhibition runs chronologically, with a work chosen for each year. Easy choice for my painting here—the deKooning hidden away in a corner. DeKooning is one of my favorite artists and I spent a long time with this painting. There was also a lovely, though not one of his best, Monet, and a Renoir sculpture.
Went over to the Botanical Garden, which is small, but has a great variety, including a tropical solarium and a butterfly room which was just delightful.
When in Amsterdam…we decided to find the coffee house which came highly recommended (every pun intended) and managed to find it. Really, you can’t miss them—you can smell them before you see them. We didn’t want to deal with traffic and finding our way back to the hotel, so we bought a piece of hash cake, picked up some cheese and herring on the street, and went back to the room. I had ¼ piece and was flying, Bill had ½ and didn’t feel it at all (he claims it was the placebo effect for me, but I think believe me, this was no placebo effect!).
When I was finally able to walk, we went on the night canal cruise, which would
have be fun high or not.
Next day…on to Venice…
Day 4—May 7
In planning this trip, going from one canal city to another really appealed to me. And this proved to be true. Ah Venizia. This is simply one place I never am disappointed in. I feel as if I could walk the streets forever. Especially since I don’t have to worry about getting hit by a car or a bicycle. And the light. Everyone talks about the light, and that’s because it’s true. Everything about it is simply magical to me. And this time it’s even better because DD, who is studying Italian in the AHA program in Siena is meeting us here!
We stayed on Lido because the hotel we usually stay at in Venice (Hotel Flora) was totally booked and also, because this trip was costing too much already (originally I planned to stay in an II timeshare on Lido for a week, but even though I requested at the beginning of July for May, we didn’t get it, which put a real damper in the budget), so, upon a great recommendation in Fodors, (so sorry I can’t thank this person, but this too was in my notes and haven’t been able to find who it was on a search…) I booked the Hotel Stella---and was very happy that I did. The only problem was finding it…we took the bus from the vaperetto stop and bypassed it by one stop.
Not only was it a delightful hotel, but our room had a patio, which was such a plus for our reunion with DD. They even had a complimentary bottle of wine waiting for us to celebrate. (Also complimentary bicycles and a boat trip to Murano were included in the price, but we didn’t have time for either…this time…)
We took the vaparretto into town (I really found this to be so much fun!) and had dinner at Bacaro Jazz, at S. Marco 5546 (www.barcarojazz.com) a jazz club recommented here. DH is a jazz musician and I really wanted to go someplace that would make him happy. As it turned out, they didn’t have live jazz that night, but the atmosphere was nice, and the music was jazz, and the food was good, (not great) and inexpensive (for Venice). I was literally blown away by how well DD was speaking Italian—I swear she’s speaking more Italian in 4 weeks of study than I’m able to speak in Spanish after over 2 years of study. I really think immersion is the best way. Of course, it helps that she’s smarter (and younger) than I am, but still…
We roamed the streets after dinner, which is one of the true delights of Venice, just roaming the streets. Before we left, I gave DH a quote, something like: “Don’t worry about getting lost in Venice. You’re supposed to get lost in Venice.” Well, I’m a big believer in this…it’s really part of the magic. (He was actually upset when we were in Seville and it just so happened that our map had north and south reversed…didn’t bother me a bit…)
Day 5—May 8—Mother’s Day
What a wonderful way to spend Mother’s Day! We all wanted to keep things low-keyed, so after a light breakfast at the hotel, (very good croissants, excellent cappocino), we took the vaperetto to town, not all the way in—we went to the park and just walked around. We stayed in the non-touristy areas and picked up a lunch (around 10 Euros for 3) and then DD had to get back to Siena, so we went to the train station with her and saw her off, and then just roamed the streets, took a vaperreto back to Lido and walked the entire length of the island.
Lido is touristy and rather “yuppy-like”, and I wouldn’t recommend it for a first visit, but really, if money is an issue, I’d stay there again.
It was here we started our gelato habit…simply sinful…
We intended to go back to town for dinner, but got distracted, and it was very late so we just went over to a local pizzeria for dinner.
Day 6—May 9
Caught an early vaperretto to town and headed directly to one of my old-time favorites—the Peggy Guggenheim. I don’t recall ever seeing it this crowded, but I enjoyed it just the same. I found a wonderful little art kit in the giftstore, perfect for traveling with oil pastels, colored pencils, and regular pencils in a compact kit.
When DD was in Venice a few weeks ago, she had “gotten lost” and followed music to a Vivaldi concert where they had an exhibition of ancient instruments. DH wanted to see this, so we started following the directions she had given us (or so he thought), and ended up at the bus terminal instead. In all these years I haven’t figured out what he has against asking directions, but I was enjoying “getting lost,” so I just went along with things.
Finally, we were getting a bit frustrated, so I decided to go into a nearby building and get directions, and guess what building I went into—the one we wanted, with the classical instrument exhibition and the Vivaldi music playing in the background (I mistakedly thought this had been a live concert).
Then on to the ghetto, where we got there too late for the last tour, and on to a restaurant that was recommended either here called Ca’ d’Oro, which we had a hard time finding, but were glad we made the effort. Not so much for the food, which was quite good and reasonable (I really liked my squid in black ink although it stained my teeth), but because we met Trixie. Another angel. She was dining solo next to us, we started chatting, and thanks to her, and of course Venice, it turned into quite an enchanted evening.
Trixie is a transplanted Austrian who has lived and traveled all over the world, but now can’t leave Venice. She’s an art consultant for a gallery and is on the organizing committee for the upcoming Biencienial. We hit it off immediately, and she proceeded to take us on a nighttour of Venice that was quite a treat.
As best as my poor memory can recall, I’ll try to share it with you.
The first place she took us is a site I’ve seen in books on Venice, yet haven’t been able to find on my own. Now I know why. It’s hidden away, but well worth the search. The 15th century Palazzo Contarini del Bovolo looks like something out of an Escher painting. The address I found for it in the only guide book among my many (and, believe me, I have many) where it is mentioned (DK travel guides) is Corte Contarni del Bovolo, but believe me, it’s not easy to find…but well worth it, especially at night.
Then Trixie took us on a tour of some of her favorite restaurants, stopped for a guappa at one of the bars, (but, as already noted, I have a very low drug/alcohol tolerance, so ordered a Bellini instead, but they said there’re not in season yet, so they made me a Rosselli instead, which was wonderful—fresh strawberries with???—anyone know?), and then she took us to her favorite hotel where her gallery was housing one of their artists, and fortunately, I kept the pamphlet. This place was breathtaking. I’m not sure if it’s been mentioned in Fodor’s yet, but if money were no object, this would be the place I’d stay. Ca Maria Adele at Dorsoduro 111, on a canal directly across from Santa Maria della Salute. Trixie told me it was only 180 EU, but after checking out their Website, well…it might be that price for HER…They have only been open 2 years and there were a few rooms vacant which she took us to see. WOW! I doubt I could SLEEP in the Sala Del Doge, but it might be ideal for a honeymoon, and the breakfast room was simply stunning, and what a view! Check them out at www.cameriaadele.it.
I really believe there are no coincidences…on the vaperetto on the way back to Lido (where Trixie is staying while she looks for a place in Venice), she said to us, “You know, I was on the bus the day you arrived when you went past your bus stop….”
Next day…on to Siena…
Superstitious in Siena and Sleepless in Spain...Artlover's (long) and non-linear trip report (including Amsterdam)
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artlover, your trip sounds delightful!! And your new friend Trixie obviously added to it. Uhm, about your DH refusing to ask for directions, I think that little flaw is built into their genes, LOL. Shhhh, don't tell any of the fellows here I said that, please.
I look forward to the rest of your report. And I am sorry about your losing your notebook. Things like that can be so upsetting. But a least it wasn't your passport! But seriously, I can imagine you were not a happy camper.
Thanks for sharing your trip!
Artlover, I am so sorry you lost your sketchbook/journal. It sounds like you had a wonderful time and met very interesting people.
Great report! Can't wait to hear more.
I have come to the conclusion that men don't ask for directions because they can't follow directions! At least mine can't!!
nice report. was only in venice once, and stayed at flora also. we had a great family room overlooking that palatial home in the rear of hotel.
hope to get back someday to be able to try to find these special places you mention.
Paula,
Thank you so much for a delightful report. What a heartbreak that you lost your journal, but it's obvious you have great memory.
I guess your DH is like my DH: they're never lost and refuse to ask for directions.
You mention that your daughter is in Siena studying in the AHA program. Is that some sort of language program? I'm in the process of researching italian language programs to attend next year. Of course, if this is a program for college aged people I , unfortunately, won't qualify.
Looking forward to your next installment!
Thanks to all you for your help in planning this trip--really I couldn't have done it without you! And even though I lost my sketchbook/journey, I had made copies of all the really important documents, such as hotels, flights, etc., so I it wasn't a complete bummer. And Lovesitaly, you're right--it wasn't my passport!
cruiseluv,
Yes, this program is a part of a university program, but I'm sure there are many language programs for adults as well.
Glad to hear I'm not the only one whose DH suffers from mapaholism...IMO "dovi" or "donde esta..." are so much easier (plus you sometimes meet really nice people this way)...I guess it's a guy thing, huh?
So, on to Siena....
Oh, so in going through my stuff (still unpacking—am jealous that some people can make smiley and unsmiley faces—I don’t know how to—but I’d put an unsmiley face here if I could), I ran across a broucher from a place Trixie took us to in Venice for the drinks…Le Bistrot at Calle dei Fabbri, San Marco. They offer incredible free classes…check them out at www.bistrotdevenise.com We didn’t eat there, but Trixie highly recommended them and I trust her recommendations.
Also ran across a broacher from Amsterdam from the Rembrandt house, which is also included on the Amsterdam pass. I forgot we went there, but it was great, even though I forgot. Fascinating. His studio fascinated me—they actually have the pigments out that he used to mix his colors. It really amazed me how little light there was in the studio, which may have attributed to his incredible contrast in lights and darks in his paintings. DH was amazed by the beds—how anyone could sleep in them…which lead to the next part of the journey…well, sort of (I warned this was rather non-linear, huh?)
Day 7—May 10—Venice—Siena
Took the early train from Venice to Florence, transferred to the bus in Florence (bus station very close to train station) and took the bus to Siena.
DD met us at the bus station to help us get to our hotel—Palazzo Bruchi—another Fodor’s recommendation that I want to thank someone for, but can’t find who it was—you know why. (But if you’re reading this—thank you!) Palazzo Bruchi was located in the old city near El Campo and was a good place to stay. However, I had booked a “French Queen” bed and when we took one look at it, we knew there was no way DH was going to be able to sleep in that….I should have known better…”a French Queen”…think about it. They were very nice about switching rooms so that we could have a bigger bed. As (and I forgot her name…something like Camelia….) said, “he (meaning DH) is a long man….”
While waiting for the switch, a well-fed grey and white cat came up to me and started rubbing against my leg. As all cat lovers would do, I bent down and petted her. She purred and purred.
Once we checked into the room, I stepped out and looked down into the courtyard where the cat was now rubbing against another women who chose to ignore her. I looked on as the cat kept knudging against this woman’s leg—someone who obviously was not a cat lover. It kept knudging and knudging, and this woman kept ignoring and ignoring it. Finally, the cat lifted his leg and peed on the woman!
So, we check in, go out to dinner at a place near DD’s apartment, see her apartment and meet her roommates, go to her favorite local gelato place, and walk home and crash.
Day 8—May 11
I wake up early and go outside and the well-fed gray and white cat greets me. I pet him and he leads me through a nearby gate…I follow him…into a Secret Garden. I swear, this place looks like what I visualize the garden to be in ()’s book…it even has an ancient broken statue and a stone bench…and the view…oh my god…the view of the countryside and nearby church. Roses and irises are in bloom, and although it appears to be fairly unattended, it has a charm that takes my breath away. To find such a treasure in the middle of the walled city…well, I’m in paradise…(and all because I was nice to a cat…)
What a wonderful way to start my birthday!
Lovely, artlover! and Happy Birthday and please continue
Looking forward to more of this report. That cat would have really liked me, petting it would not have been enough, I would have had to pick him up and put him on my shoulder!
artlover,
I'm really enjoying your report. I can see it pays to be nice to cats! Looking forward to more...
Artlover,
I've been looking forward to your trip report. Thanks for posting. I'll be anxious to see your report on the Spanish leg of the trip as well.
Hi art,
Even though you lost your notes, you've given us a great report.
Am truly enjoying reading about your trip! And I, too, will be interested to read about the Spanish leg of your journey.
And don't tell me - your birthday is May 11? OMG! That is my birthday as well! So, happy belated, and I'm glad you were spending yours in a much more exciting spot than I was spending mine!
Looking forward to the next installment!
Thanks all, for your kind words, and most of all for all the help you gave me in making this happen.
Yes, I truly believe it pays to be nice to cats (and dogs...and all animals for that matter).
Chele60--Happy Belated Birthday to you too!
Well, here goes the next installment...
So, I’m sketching in my sketchbook in my Secret Garden (just checked Amazon—the author is Frances Hodgson Burnett) and who appears but DD, a surprise because I thought she was in class. Turns out she was in class—in the adjoining building at the Library and they had a break, so she came over to wish me a happy birthday!
DH shows up after she leaves (I swear, we were the only people who were ever in this garden the entire time we were there…there’s a sign at the entrance that says “keep out”, but I’m sure they were either referring to non-hotel guests or someone else, certainly not us, right?) and we stroll over to El Campo. I’ve seen pictures of this plaza. Believe me, none do it justice. The tower, the colors, the energy—I love it! We just roam the streets all day (don’t need a map here—any time you think you’re lost, you simply look up, find El Campo, and make your way back there).
DD meet us after class and took us to see the apartment—near Luna Park and gave me my birthday gifts—one being a very special hand-made book with Gregarian (sp?) chanting paper that she made in her book-binding class. I can’t tell you how touched I was by this present. She also got me a bottle of David Chianti ‘cause she knows I’m an artlover, right! (This trip was my gift from DH—he knows what I really want!)
Grasshopper raved so much about Trattoria Fori Porta that I decided to go there for my birthday dinner—and am I ever glad we did. Thank you! Thank you! Thank you, Grasshopper! What a fantastic place. (Via C. Tolomei 1—phone 0577 222100).
We were the first people in the restaurant and Paulo greeted us and when we sat down, DD said something to him in Italian. A few minutes later he was back with four glasses of wine and he and DD and DH sang “happy birthday” to me in Italian. I turned bright red. I told DD we had promised never to do that. She said, “Maybe you and Dad promised each other that, but I never agreed to that. Besides, we’re in Italy, and here laws are meant to be broken.”
What a fantastic dinner—among the best of the trip. I had the eggplant soufflé, DD had ensalada with truffles, DH had the buffet (grilled eggplant, peppers, salad, olives, etc.—can’t remember it all, but it was huge and delicious); shared luguini (sp?) with mushrooms that was so fresh and tasty; DH and I both had veal, but 2 different preparations, both fantastic, and DD had steak and mushrooms, which was amazing; we had a wonderful bottle of Chianti suggested by Paulo, and the best terrimusu of the trip. Then Paulo came over with four more glasses of dessert wine. By now the restaurant was filling up, so he very quietly toasted me and whispered “happy birthday.”
So it was a perfect day, but then I had to go to the bathroom. I found it without any difficulty, but the light wasn’t on. So I searched for a light and seeing a rope hanging along the wall, figured that might be it, pulled the rope, but the lights didn’t go on. Instead I hear paniced knocking at the door and Paulo calling out, “Are you ok? Are you ok?” I told him I was fine, but I couldn’t find the light. He turned it on from the outside. When I returned to the table DH was staring at his plate but DD said, “Was that you who set off the alarm?” Well, you can be sure I wouldn’t do that again!
Still, I couldn’t have asked for a better birthday!
Day 9—May 12
One drawback of Palazzo Bruchi is the so-called breakfast. The coffee is instant and the pastries are packaged and uneatable. We’re not big breakfast eaters, but we do desperately need our coffee in the morning—real coffee. Well, luckily DD’s favorite coffee shop is a few shops from the hotel, so we became regulars there. I even learned how to order “dopio mociano” when I wanted a switch from capacino. And we became friends with Christian. Turns out there’s a picture of Cameron at the register and when DH commented on how we love Cameron, well, that really broke the ice. Then when I was talking with him, the conversation turned to books and Umbretto Eco, who I think is an amazing writer and it turns out that Christian had studied with him in university! Talk about a small world.
We spent the day roaming the streets and DD made us dinner. She’s been taking a cooking class and oh boy, she’s going to be the designated cook in the family from now on. She made gnocchi from scratch (!) in pesto sauce, baked salmon, and a beautiful salad. It was so special dining with her in the apartment solarium watching the beautiful sunset. After dinner, we walked over to her gelato place for dessert, and then she told me she had a special treat for me.
She took me to () in Luna Park where she had booked 3 tickets for a wine tasting. Turns out the tasting had been cancelled. She was so disappointed and after much discussion with them (in Italian), they presented her with the best bottle of wine we had on the trip (and that’s saying a lot!) I wrote the name down somewhere, but it might have been in my sketchbook/journal….(#!%*!#!)
Day 10—Friday the 13th
Well, you already know about this day!
Oh artlover, you have me in stiches!! I especially love the part when you pulled the cord in the restaurant restroom! I did something like that once too. It was in a bathroom in Florence. We had arrived and unpacked and I decided to take a bath. There was a cord hanging next to the bathtop and I pulled it (wondering what it was for). All of a sudden I hear a noise, (bang!) and a darling older hotel maid came bursting in the bathroom screaching "signora, signora". Guess you know what the cord was for! Fortunatly I had my bathrobe on, well sort of. My DH had been taking a nap and the commotion almost gave him a heart attack. Oh well, at least I didn't scare the stuffings out of a whole room full of restuarant patrons. LOL.
Your daughter sound likes a jewel, and your husband, aaah, to give you a trip to Italy for your birthday present. What a prince!
Now, onward with your delightful trip report!
LoveItaly,
Oh, I'm so glad I'm not the only one that's happened to!
ok, here's some more...
Day 11—May 14
DD was off to Rome with the AHA group (we could have gone too, but I really thought Rome was just too much to add to this trip and am glad we didn’t go as in retrospect, it would have been). We caught the bus to San Gimignano, which is absolutely fabulous, but also absolutely touristy. All the shops were perfect (and overpriced), the tour buses were all sitting outside the city walls, the flowerpots were well attended, etc., but it was gorgeous.
We climbed Torre Grossa—the tallest tower of Plazza del Duomo. As a sufferer of vertigo, I was very proud of myself, and it was worth it (actually I think acupuncture has helped my vertigo). The view from the top was what one imagines Tuscany to be—perfect countryside going on and on forever, with an occasional castle thrown in.
It started drizzling, so everyone ran inside for cover except us…(we’re from Seattle and a little drizzle doesn’t affect us in the least).
The bus coming back was a real hassle. Seems the previous 2 buses had been cancelled due to a bicycle race and there was a huge crowd waiting for the 4 o’clock bus. So by time the bus showed up, people became very pushy and obnoxious, but we all managed to squeeze on in a triumph that probably would break a record in the Guiness Book. Luckily the bus stopped at a transfer point to Siena or Florence, so we got off and waited for another back to Siena.
We had another incredible, delicious, and very reasonably priced dinner. Thank you, thank you, fellow Fodorite carol w!!! OMG—you people are ANGELS! This is exactly the kind of place we love to go to in Europe—excellent food, mostly locals (though seems word is catching on), and doesn’t hurt the pocketbook (the scale, maybe, but not the pocketbook). Trattoria Papei at Piazza del Mercato 6 (behind Palazzo Pubbico) is an absolute find. We had noodles with duck sauce, veal shank, veal scallopini, green beans in tomato sauce, the best bread of the trip so far, and a bottle of Chianti. Everything was delicious beyond description with the exception of the green beans, which were overcooked for us (but we like our veggies very undercooked—and they were tasty). We ate outside, though there’s a huge inside area as well, and it was casual and fun. Our waiter was a riot—he took a glass of water and flipped it around. The service was a bit slow, but it’s a real family atmosphere, so no one really seemed to mind. Portions were huge and if it wasn’t so good, I couldn’t have eaten so much. Entire bill was under 36 EU!
BTW, the wine cellar in Luna Park is Enoteca Italiana and it’s a beautiful building and they apparently do have wine tastings, but I’m not sure when. Also, nearby is Siena Jazz, where they sometimes have concerts for the public and apparently it’s an excellent school. We strolled down the hall and enjoyed their collection of black and white photographs of famous jazz musicians.
Day 12—May 15
A sunny, casual day pretty much following the Urban trekking in Siena map provided by the hotel. Went to Santa Katherine, which great views of the city, then wandered through the Roman Gate and then on to a gravel path until we ended up at an Organic Farm. This was rather amazing as it was like being in the country, yet we were so close to the city, with more fantastic views.
We came upon a group of picnic tables, and since we had picked up cheese and bread and such, sat down to have a picnic. We weren’t sure if these were public tables or if we were trespassing, but, well, we were tired and they were there…As we ate, a Range Roover pulled up nearby (and you don’t see many of those in Europe) and a Golden Retriever jumped out and came over for us to say “hi” (we’re huge dog lovers and they know it!). It’s owner called him back and then, the next thing we know, this man is stuffing a gigantic GOOSE into his car! The dog jumps in the front seat, and this goose is making the most monstrous noises as the car drives away!
We went back to rest at DD’s place, and as we were drinking a bottle of Chainti and playing a game of gin (I was winning, but DH would deny this), who walks in but DD and her roomies! We were so happy and surprised that they returned so early. She was beaming and full of stories about their trip to Rome. One of the girls had already downloaded her pixs on her PC, and we really enjoyed seeing them. I’ll tell you—any of you parents out their with college age students who are thinking of sending them to an International program—I can’t say enough good things about AHA.
We were going to go to another Fodors recommendation for dinner, Osteria La Sosta di Violante, but when we went by, it was closed, (Sundays), so went to Trattoria Papei again! That’s how much we liked it! When we went to order, DH said, no way we’re having anything with duck in it tonight. I informed him that was a goose and not a duck today! Added the white beans instead of green beans and a desert—something about “Granny’s Special Torte…” oh, was it fabulous (DD said you’re pretty safe with anything that’s “Granny’s special…”)
After dinner DD took us for our first taste of Absinthe at a nearby bar. They don’t all serve it, so if any of you want to know the name, I’ll get it for you. It was really quite a production…they put a slotted spoon on top of glass, put a sugar cube on it, pour the liquor in and then light it on fire. Once again I was flying…I see why the Paris artists liked this so much. DH said he didn’t feel a thing!
Boy did I sleep well…and have vivid dreams!
Paula,
Your vivid descriptions of Siena are making me want to go so much! I'll definitevely have to find a language school there.
How long will your daughter be in Siena?
cruiseluv,
Erin will be in Siena until Sept.--so she'll be there for Palio, which she's really excited about and is really into! If you give me your e-mail address, I can ask her to inquire about good language programs for adults there and forward the info to you.
Here's the next installment on Italy...
Day 13—May 16
Went to the Duomo, which was fabulous. Reminded me a bit of a smaller version of the Mesquite in Cordoba.
Went back to the hotel to meet DD for lunch and was complaining about my aching feet and admiring her cool powder blue “Italian” tennis shoes and when she told me how comfortable they were and how much they cost ( 15 ER!) and took me to the Chinese! Shop where she got them….I got some in pink. Let me tell you, I brought 2 pairs of Eccos with me, which I love, but these shoes turned out to be more comfortable! If you want the address of where I got them (it was near the hotel), I’ll get it for you.
We strolled along the Medici Fort and founding and DD lead us to a place she thought we might like—the Ancient fountain at Porta Ovile. The irony of the is that we had wanted to visit it ourselves, but it sounded too complicated to reach. It was lovely.
Went back to DD’s place to share the bottle of wine they “gave” her for the cancelled wine tour—I’m really not a connoisseur, but this was one of the best wines of the trip—Brunello Di Montalcino—Col D’Orcia 1999.
Had another outstanding dinner at Osteria La Sosta di Violante—thank you Mamma Love. Had sardines in arugala, lamb with rosemary, ravoli with spinach and walnut sauce, spicy red beans, and chocolate torte that was perfect. This would have been a perfect dinner had it not been for the 4 drunk American women at the table across the room (it’s a very small restaurant). I can’t even begin to tell you how loud and drunk they were. There were some other Americans in the restaurant and we kept looking at each other, mortified, especially when two Italian gentlemen came in. Really, what can you do in a situation like this? But the restaurant was excellent.
Day 14-May 17—Siena--Florence
Took the bus to Florence and checked into the delightful, peaceful, Hotel Villa Belvedere at Via Benedetto Castelli www.villa-belvedere.
We stayed here last time and I love this place. Only thing missing this time was their St. Bernard, Ben. It’s out of town—walking distance if you’re good walkers, has large rooms, fresh flowers and candy in the room, a swimming pool, a beautiful garden, full buffet breakfast (you can order eggs any style and bacon), and the owners are so kind and helpful. (Senore Ceschi-Perotto told me this was the same room we had last time.) Really, for 150 EU (180 gets you a balcony), I think this place is a real find. There’s even free parking.
I took a twohour bubble bath (and I’m often queasy about using hotel tubs, but this bathroom is so clean I almost felt like I was in Switzerland!)
It started pouring outside, so we took a cab to dinner at one of my favorite restaurants—La Giostra. www.ristorantelagiostra.it (by the way—all you cooks out there—check it out—they have recipes on their website) We knew this was going to be our last meal in Italy, so we went all out and let Lorenzo decide for us (since the menu was too long and complicated anyways) and we weren’t at all sorry. A waitress poured glasses of complimentary champagne and “The Prince” bought us our appetizer plate, his favorite words, “yummy, yummy,” which was true. It was huge and could have been a meal in itself. I can’t remember everything, but there were grilled red peppers, marinated mushrooms, chicken liver toast, tomatoes with buffalo cheese, etc. For a first we split the thin sliced beef, then the ravioli with goat cheese and pear, then fish baked in foil, and tiramisu.
By the way, we are very weight conscious (infact I told myself I couldn’t have any tiramisu unless I reached my ideal weight before leaving—and that did it for me!) and often split meals. Every place we went, this was just fine with them! No ploblema!
As delicious as this meal was, somehow we managed to be seated next to another table of drunken Americans—this time two couples from L.A. She was celebrating her birthday—why couldn’t she have just set off an alarm in the w.c. rather than be loud and drunk? And how could this happen to us two nights in a row?!
Now I know people have “debated” whether the owner of La Giostra is a real prince or not (oh, and I didn’t see the twins this time, unless they’re just not as gorgeous as I remembered, or maybe they’re making movies in Hollywood now…), but as we were leaving, I complimented him on the food and he invited me to come for cooking classes at NO CHARGE! Now that is prince to me!
Day 15—May 18—David, Botticelli, and TOSCA!
What a day! (And night!)
(To be continued after I finish the laundry...how unromantic...)
We had reservations for the Academia and Uffizi—don’t even think of going without reservations (our hotel made them for us). We’ve been to both several times before, and I have to admit, this time, the crowds were “getting to me.” I realized how hypocritical this was, how I was part of the crowds, but still, I never recalled Florence being this crowded.
DD joined us at our hotel later in the day (and I have to say, being in a restful place away from the crowds was a real plus for me) and we had a light dinner there and then went to see TOSCA! She and I absolutely loved it, but DH, who’s a musician and perfectionist had some problems with it. Also, we weren’t exactly thrilled to find that we were overcharged by $260 by Liaisons Abroad for the tickets—they should have been 65 EU each, not 75 Sterling Pounds each as they charged us! Luckily, I put it on AMEX and they have credited us, but I guess I should post a separate post on Fodors to warn people about this scam.
Getting back to Tosca—Zubin Metha conducted and they did it in a “contemporary” setting, using multi-media stage effects which I thought was excellent. DD loved it too.
Oh—a wor for the Fashion Police. (Everyone not interested in “what to wear” can skip this part). I, like many of the women in Fodors seem to be, am a bit concerned about what I wear in Europe. Let’s face it—Seattle is not the fashion capital of the country, and I don’t want to “stand out” when I’m traveling. So I was naturally concerned about what I was going to wear to the opera. After deciding on keeping it simple, but dressy (black flowing skirt just above my knees, simple crepe sleeveless shell top, double strand of pearls with nice pearl earrings and a black shawl), I pretested my black stiletto heels and after wearing them for ½ hour during the day was in such pain that evening that I went out and bought a pair of dressy black ballerina flats that I could actually walk in. OK—so, I was a bit concerned that I would be underdressed at the opera. Well, this was probably the only time on the trip that I felt OVERDRESSED! Here I am in one of the fashion capitals of Europe at an opera surrounded by women in jeans—yes, jeans, and other casual attire. Yes, there were a few other women (DD included) dressed up, and a few in floor-length evening attire, but very few.
Also, except for the time when my jeans set off the security check at S and I was felt up and down by the woman security guard (I almost told her that DH would have preferred this treatment, but I know that security is not a joking matter), I was so glad I brought a pair of jeans with me. Everyone, and I mean everyone, is wearing them everywhere (even to the opera!) And white tennis shoes aren’t taboo either, though I much preferred my cool “Italian” pink ones!
One last image of Italy…
Las night another image of Venice just came to me last night in my dreams…(Venice is like that, huh?) When we had just arrived (I warned this was non-linear, right?) and we on the vaporetto over to Lido, I went to the back of the boat while DH stayed with the luggage (well, someone had to do that) and an elderly Italian man was sitting next to me. He started talking to me and I said in my almost non-existent Italian, “Scusi, non parlo l’italiano,” but that didn’t make any difference to him and the entire way there, he gave me a guided tour of all the sites as they went by—in Italian, of course. What a treat! What a beautiful language. What a beautiful country!
BTW—I’m going to continue this as Part II and post in the Spain section (Sleepless in Spain) for all those who are only interested in Spain so they can go directly to that part of the trip…
Thanks for Italy trip report ... and, the second phase, Sleepless in Spectacular Spain ... http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34628971
Two things I forgot to add to this (sorry, this would have been more organized if I hadn't lost my sketchbook/journal):
The Rembrandt House in Amsterdam was fabulous and it's included in the Amsterdam Pass.
I literally "stumbled" into the Synagogue in Siena...happened to notice the Hebrew letters on the wall...it's only open Sunday afternoon, but it was really lovely.