Summer Interrupted; Christmas in Germany & Switzerland
Jan 18th, 2015, 04:34 PM
#1
Summer Interrupted; Christmas in Germany & Switzerland
December 14, 2014 – January 6, 2015
The mere thought of yet another hot summer Christmas in Australia was the catalyst for this trip; we’d so enjoyed our cold weather Christmas in Switzerland and Germany last year that we decided to do it all again.
Due to work obligations, we were forced to travel later in December than we would have liked, putting us in alpine Switzerland at the height of the holiday ski season and causing some anxiety when trying to find an apartment rental that wouldn’t break the bank.
It also took some doing to select a smallish city in Germany that would provide my Christmas Market fix, offer some walking opportunities and be easily reachable via train from Zurich. The Fodorites were consulted and the clear winner was Freiburg im Breisgau.
Having discovered Scuol in the Lower Engadine last year, we knew we wanted to return; we managed to secure the same apartment for a full week, albeit at a much higher price due to time of year.
However, we’d waffled about where to spend our second full week in Switzerland, wanting something new, yet still craving snow covered mountains and alpine villages. The Fodorites spoke again, suggesting Gstaad as a potential base. Gstaad at Christmas is frightfully expensive, but we found a promising apartment in the tiny community of Blankenburg, located some 40 minutes by train from Gstaad and a three minute train ride (or 15 minute walk) from Zweisimmen, which turned out to be a match made in heaven.
Hence the itinerary:
Freiburg im Bresgau, Germany – five nights
Scuol, Switzerland – seven nights
Blankenburg, Switzerland – seven nights
Zurich – one night
Singapore – 11 hour stay in Changi Airport Transit Hotel
The worst bit of course, was getting there; Bill Bryson didn’t coin Perth, Australia as ‘the world’s most remote city’ without reason; we’re in the sticks mate! Flights from here are long and expensive.
December 14 – Flight One, Perth to Singapore
We left Perth around 5:30 pm and arrived in Singapore some five hours later. We’d selected preferred seats that offered significantly more leg room, but did nothing to alleviate the uncomfortable butt and back killing seats themselves on Singapore Air’s 777. The downside of bulkhead preferred seats of course is their proximity to babies (the basinets are located in these rows) and naturally we were in a row full of unhappy ones. In fact the whole flight seemed filled with disgruntled children. I was in a staggered aisle seat that protruded into the aisle somewhat (45C), so I was abused a bit by passing food carts and luggage, but I quickly learned to withdraw my feet and elbows at the first sign of aisle activity.
A two hour layover in Changi gave us just enough time to collect some transit vouchers, grab a bite to eat, and redeem the vouchers for a discount at My Foot in Terminal 3, each opting for a pre-flight neck and back massage (SGD $84 for two 40 minute massages, very soothing, no man-handling like last year, my faith in My Foot has been restored).
December 15 – The Big Flight, Singapore to Zurich
Ah yes, thirteen long hours of overnight cattle class bliss. The seats on Singapore Airlines A-380, that cavernous flying city, were considerably more comfortable than on the 777. Add to that our primo preferred seats in the very quiet, baby-free, small Economy cabin on the upper deck with loads of legroom, and we were good to go (Row 80). We both passed on the offered dinner and breakfast (which always seems to surprise and concern SQ flight attendants for some reason), but I did help myself to a weird sandwich from the galley mid-flight, the ingredients of which were indistinguishable, but surprisingly tasty.
We arrived in Zurich 24 hours after leaving our house in Perth, much less wrecked than expected, having both managed a few hours of upright sleep. We sought out cappuccinos (5.40 CHF each), picked up train food at Migros, purchased our train tickets to Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany (65 CHF each, one way) and purchased a 15 day Swiss Saver Pass, post-dated to begin December 20, the day we were to leave Freiburg (856 CHF for the two of us, second class).
We’d toyed with purchasing the tickets to Freiburg online prior to arrival at a reduced cost, but had concerns about our flight being late and missing a specifically booked train. Our fears were unfounded.
We’d also looked into bus transport, but in the end convenience won out over economy, train it was. We boarded a train at the airport station and after a quick change to an ICE train at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof we were off to Freiburg. Some two hours later, near noon, we checked into our home for the next five nights, the lovely Hotel Minerva.
http://www.minerva-freiburg.de/
Not only is the Hotel Minerva ideally located about five minutes walk from the train station, it’s peaceful, spotlessly clean and comfortable. We paid 140 EUR per night for a ‘large’ room (#18, corner unit); fabulous breakfast included. Our room was hardly large, but it worked well for us; we thoroughly enjoyed our stay (and they get extra points for letting us check in so early). Added perks were free fast internet, a KOMBI Ticket for free transportation on local trains and buses, of which we took full advantage, and tiny packets of gummy bears on our pillows upon arrival.
We spent the remainder of the day wandering the streets of Freiburg, just trying to stay awake as long as possible and wasting no time tucking into bratwurst at the Munsterplatz open air market, and gluhwein and kartoffelpuffer at the nearby Christmas Market, surprised at how busy it was so early in the afternoon on a Monday; lots of school groups milling about. About those kartoffelpuffer...sure, we’d eaten garden variety potato pancakes before, but these were our first genuine German kartoffelpuffer, the real McCoy, and they were fabulous in all their deep fried, garlic sour cream dipped, calorie laden glory. Wunderbar! The eating fest had begun.
Less than an hour in Freiburg and I was already blown away by the abundance and variety of bakeries; this was a town after my own heart. After locating a grocery store and winding down over drinks at Pizzeria/Wine Bar Casanova, conveniently located around the block from our hotel (8.80 EUR), we returned to Hotel Minerva and hit the hay....at 5:30 pm. It felt like the day would never end.
To be continued...
The mere thought of yet another hot summer Christmas in Australia was the catalyst for this trip; we’d so enjoyed our cold weather Christmas in Switzerland and Germany last year that we decided to do it all again.
Due to work obligations, we were forced to travel later in December than we would have liked, putting us in alpine Switzerland at the height of the holiday ski season and causing some anxiety when trying to find an apartment rental that wouldn’t break the bank.
It also took some doing to select a smallish city in Germany that would provide my Christmas Market fix, offer some walking opportunities and be easily reachable via train from Zurich. The Fodorites were consulted and the clear winner was Freiburg im Breisgau.
Having discovered Scuol in the Lower Engadine last year, we knew we wanted to return; we managed to secure the same apartment for a full week, albeit at a much higher price due to time of year.
However, we’d waffled about where to spend our second full week in Switzerland, wanting something new, yet still craving snow covered mountains and alpine villages. The Fodorites spoke again, suggesting Gstaad as a potential base. Gstaad at Christmas is frightfully expensive, but we found a promising apartment in the tiny community of Blankenburg, located some 40 minutes by train from Gstaad and a three minute train ride (or 15 minute walk) from Zweisimmen, which turned out to be a match made in heaven.
Hence the itinerary:
Freiburg im Bresgau, Germany – five nights
Scuol, Switzerland – seven nights
Blankenburg, Switzerland – seven nights
Zurich – one night
Singapore – 11 hour stay in Changi Airport Transit Hotel
The worst bit of course, was getting there; Bill Bryson didn’t coin Perth, Australia as ‘the world’s most remote city’ without reason; we’re in the sticks mate! Flights from here are long and expensive.
December 14 – Flight One, Perth to Singapore
We left Perth around 5:30 pm and arrived in Singapore some five hours later. We’d selected preferred seats that offered significantly more leg room, but did nothing to alleviate the uncomfortable butt and back killing seats themselves on Singapore Air’s 777. The downside of bulkhead preferred seats of course is their proximity to babies (the basinets are located in these rows) and naturally we were in a row full of unhappy ones. In fact the whole flight seemed filled with disgruntled children. I was in a staggered aisle seat that protruded into the aisle somewhat (45C), so I was abused a bit by passing food carts and luggage, but I quickly learned to withdraw my feet and elbows at the first sign of aisle activity.
A two hour layover in Changi gave us just enough time to collect some transit vouchers, grab a bite to eat, and redeem the vouchers for a discount at My Foot in Terminal 3, each opting for a pre-flight neck and back massage (SGD $84 for two 40 minute massages, very soothing, no man-handling like last year, my faith in My Foot has been restored).
December 15 – The Big Flight, Singapore to Zurich
Ah yes, thirteen long hours of overnight cattle class bliss. The seats on Singapore Airlines A-380, that cavernous flying city, were considerably more comfortable than on the 777. Add to that our primo preferred seats in the very quiet, baby-free, small Economy cabin on the upper deck with loads of legroom, and we were good to go (Row 80). We both passed on the offered dinner and breakfast (which always seems to surprise and concern SQ flight attendants for some reason), but I did help myself to a weird sandwich from the galley mid-flight, the ingredients of which were indistinguishable, but surprisingly tasty.
We arrived in Zurich 24 hours after leaving our house in Perth, much less wrecked than expected, having both managed a few hours of upright sleep. We sought out cappuccinos (5.40 CHF each), picked up train food at Migros, purchased our train tickets to Freiburg im Breisgau, Germany (65 CHF each, one way) and purchased a 15 day Swiss Saver Pass, post-dated to begin December 20, the day we were to leave Freiburg (856 CHF for the two of us, second class).
We’d toyed with purchasing the tickets to Freiburg online prior to arrival at a reduced cost, but had concerns about our flight being late and missing a specifically booked train. Our fears were unfounded.
We’d also looked into bus transport, but in the end convenience won out over economy, train it was. We boarded a train at the airport station and after a quick change to an ICE train at the Zurich Hauptbahnhof we were off to Freiburg. Some two hours later, near noon, we checked into our home for the next five nights, the lovely Hotel Minerva.
http://www.minerva-freiburg.de/
Not only is the Hotel Minerva ideally located about five minutes walk from the train station, it’s peaceful, spotlessly clean and comfortable. We paid 140 EUR per night for a ‘large’ room (#18, corner unit); fabulous breakfast included. Our room was hardly large, but it worked well for us; we thoroughly enjoyed our stay (and they get extra points for letting us check in so early). Added perks were free fast internet, a KOMBI Ticket for free transportation on local trains and buses, of which we took full advantage, and tiny packets of gummy bears on our pillows upon arrival.
We spent the remainder of the day wandering the streets of Freiburg, just trying to stay awake as long as possible and wasting no time tucking into bratwurst at the Munsterplatz open air market, and gluhwein and kartoffelpuffer at the nearby Christmas Market, surprised at how busy it was so early in the afternoon on a Monday; lots of school groups milling about. About those kartoffelpuffer...sure, we’d eaten garden variety potato pancakes before, but these were our first genuine German kartoffelpuffer, the real McCoy, and they were fabulous in all their deep fried, garlic sour cream dipped, calorie laden glory. Wunderbar! The eating fest had begun.
Less than an hour in Freiburg and I was already blown away by the abundance and variety of bakeries; this was a town after my own heart. After locating a grocery store and winding down over drinks at Pizzeria/Wine Bar Casanova, conveniently located around the block from our hotel (8.80 EUR), we returned to Hotel Minerva and hit the hay....at 5:30 pm. It felt like the day would never end.
To be continued...
Jan 19th, 2015, 02:01 PM
#4
December 16 – Wandering
We bounced out of bed at 4:30 am; with hours to kill before breakfast, we decided to explore Freiburg in the peaceful and cold dark, careful to avoid stepping into the Bachle (small shallow gutters). In Perth I routinely walk at 5 am in the morning, but December in the Southern Hemisphere means full light; it’d take a few days to adjust to it not getting light until 8 am and getting dark around 4:30 pm.
As Freiburg slowly woke up we had cappuccinos at the only open place we could find, a bakery in the train station, then it was back to the hotel to shower and get ready for breakfast at 7 am. And oh, what a breakfast it was. We’d skipped dinner and our stomachs were still on Perth time...we were like bears coming out of hibernation as we tucked into Hotel Minerva’s fabulous spread of Black Forest ham, salami, cheeses, eggs, bacon, fruit, cereal, yogurt, seeded rolls, and my personal favorite, walnut bread. It was lovely, and fully appreciated.
As recommended by Fodorites Andrew and Ingo, we took the train to Staufen at the foot of the Black Forest, where we worked off our breakfast over the next two hours walking up to and around the castle ruins, which are perched on a hill surrounded by vineyards. We explored the pretty little town, the pedestrian street decked out for the holidays and quite festive despite the sunless day. As wine drinkers, the abundance of wine shops wasn't lost on us; and before long we were settled in at the rustic Alter Simpl to sample the goods; Gutedel, a white wine local to Staufen for me and Maisel Weisse for the beer drinker. I thoroughly enjoyed Staufen; and we seemed to be the only tourists in town.
After a bakery lunch at Backerei Café Hertzmann - three coffees, two sandwiches, one slice Kasekuchen - (cheesecake) 14.20 EUR - we took the train to Munstertal, the end of the train line some three miles from Staufen, for no other reason than it was there. We spent about 45 minutes rambling through this pretty little ‘town’ which consisted of large homes, a huge grocery store and not a whole lot else.
One day in Germany and we were already overwhelmed by the number of smokers; living in almost smoke-free Perth has evidently intensified our dislike of the habit.
Skies gloomy, it seemed to get dark around 4 pm. Back in Freiburg, we took the path of least resistance and had a jet-lagged, geriatric dinner at Casanova (surprised they served food so early), 22 EUR for two pizzas, beer and wine, good and filling.
Photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7647996819384/
To be continued...
We bounced out of bed at 4:30 am; with hours to kill before breakfast, we decided to explore Freiburg in the peaceful and cold dark, careful to avoid stepping into the Bachle (small shallow gutters). In Perth I routinely walk at 5 am in the morning, but December in the Southern Hemisphere means full light; it’d take a few days to adjust to it not getting light until 8 am and getting dark around 4:30 pm.
As Freiburg slowly woke up we had cappuccinos at the only open place we could find, a bakery in the train station, then it was back to the hotel to shower and get ready for breakfast at 7 am. And oh, what a breakfast it was. We’d skipped dinner and our stomachs were still on Perth time...we were like bears coming out of hibernation as we tucked into Hotel Minerva’s fabulous spread of Black Forest ham, salami, cheeses, eggs, bacon, fruit, cereal, yogurt, seeded rolls, and my personal favorite, walnut bread. It was lovely, and fully appreciated.
As recommended by Fodorites Andrew and Ingo, we took the train to Staufen at the foot of the Black Forest, where we worked off our breakfast over the next two hours walking up to and around the castle ruins, which are perched on a hill surrounded by vineyards. We explored the pretty little town, the pedestrian street decked out for the holidays and quite festive despite the sunless day. As wine drinkers, the abundance of wine shops wasn't lost on us; and before long we were settled in at the rustic Alter Simpl to sample the goods; Gutedel, a white wine local to Staufen for me and Maisel Weisse for the beer drinker. I thoroughly enjoyed Staufen; and we seemed to be the only tourists in town.
After a bakery lunch at Backerei Café Hertzmann - three coffees, two sandwiches, one slice Kasekuchen - (cheesecake) 14.20 EUR - we took the train to Munstertal, the end of the train line some three miles from Staufen, for no other reason than it was there. We spent about 45 minutes rambling through this pretty little ‘town’ which consisted of large homes, a huge grocery store and not a whole lot else.
One day in Germany and we were already overwhelmed by the number of smokers; living in almost smoke-free Perth has evidently intensified our dislike of the habit.
Skies gloomy, it seemed to get dark around 4 pm. Back in Freiburg, we took the path of least resistance and had a jet-lagged, geriatric dinner at Casanova (surprised they served food so early), 22 EUR for two pizzas, beer and wine, good and filling.
Photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7647996819384/
To be continued...
Jan 20th, 2015, 01:17 AM
#6
Not sure why you would give up a summer in Perth 
LOL (we hibernated during the 44C days in Adelaide, too).
Nice trip. I like your itinerary, not rushed.
Our (first leg) flight to Asia from Adelaide is a bit worse than Perth, adds an hour or 2 to an already awful long haul (25hrs plus)... I always vow I will do a stopover both ways, then rarely do it..... pay the price with the jetlag on the way back though. Always feel a bit envious of people describing their non stop 'long haul' flight of 8 hours.....
LOL (we hibernated during the 44C days in Adelaide, too). Nice trip. I like your itinerary, not rushed.
Our (first leg) flight to Asia from Adelaide is a bit worse than Perth, adds an hour or 2 to an already awful long haul (25hrs plus)... I always vow I will do a stopover both ways, then rarely do it..... pay the price with the jetlag on the way back though. Always feel a bit envious of people describing their non stop 'long haul' flight of 8 hours.....
Jan 20th, 2015, 01:49 PM
#7
<<Always feel a bit envious of people describing their non stop 'long haul' flight of 8 hours.....>>
Yeah, me too Adelaidean. I look forward to the day when I can consider an 8 hour flight long.
Yeah, me too Adelaidean. I look forward to the day when I can consider an 8 hour flight long.
Jan 21st, 2015, 02:53 PM
#8
December 17 – A foray into France
We managed to sleep until 4 am; foregoing the early morning walk, we crawled back into bed until 6 am, slowing down already. Another lovely breakfast later we were on the train to Breisach, situated along the Rhine about halfway between Freiburg and Colmar, where we connected with the bus to Colmar in the Alsace region of France (train covered by KOMBI Ticket, bus 17 EUR return for two). It was still dark at 8:30 am and we were in for yet another gloomy day - I’d read that Freiburg im Breisgau was the sunniest and warmest city in Germany, but we’d yet to see any evidence of that.
We enjoyed the bus ride, which wound through several small towns and countryside and deposited us in Colmar around 9:30, not sure where to go once we got off the bus. A woman noticed our confusion and offered her help, and although much appreciated, it was lost on us non-French speakers. An English speaking woman overheard the conversation (such that it was) and generously pointed us in the direction of the pedestrian center, home to Colmar’s five Christmas markets.
After locating the tourist office for a map, bus schedule and directions to the nearest loo, we set about exploring the festive streets of Colmar, which I instantly fell in love with. Fabulous looking patisseries, boulangeries, chocolatiers and cheese shops lined the streets, as did cafes, pubs and chocolate box buildings. It was quaint overload. We soon found ourselves ensconced in the cozy Jupiter Café for a pre-lunch libation of Leffe Brune on tap and Irish coffee (14 EUR), the café full with other like-minded folk.
We wandered through the markets, wishing we’d brought our warmer coats, noticing that the wares sold here were quite different to those in Germany. We sampled Vin Chaud, liking it much better than gluhwein, wondering if it was a source of pride for the French. Instead of bratwurst and kartoffelpuffer, the food vendors were selling warm soup, baked goods, marzipan, and a surprising (to me) abundance of brezels. The smell of ripe cheese permeated the air.
We randomly popped into Schwendi Bier Wistub at 23 Grand Rue, which was brimming with customers, so we sat at the bar and ordered lunch – French onion soup and salad for me, a decadent plate of Roesti Munster for Bill that was much more cream and cheese than potatoes...and seriously good...a wheat beer and Irish coffee rounded out a rather excellent meal (37 EUR).
After lunch we meandered while nibbling a chocolate crepe, me quickly regretting that I’d not held out for one with Nutella. We sought out a shop I’d seen earlier and purchased a set of Alsace wine glasses, which miraculously survived the trip back to Perth.
We happened upon an indoor farmer’s market with an overwhelming assortment of every type of food imaginable, and eventually ended up at a park with an outdoor ice rink, where we watched kids skate and adults imbibe in afternoon refreshments on a moving carousel bar. Gloomy skies and all, Colmar had stolen my heart.
Thanks to traffic, some pretty erratic drivers and road construction, our unhappy bus driver muttering his discontent the entire way, it took some time to get back to Breisach, where, as expected, we’d missed our train, and had to wait about 40 minutes for the next one.
Photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7649835544670/
To be continued...
We managed to sleep until 4 am; foregoing the early morning walk, we crawled back into bed until 6 am, slowing down already. Another lovely breakfast later we were on the train to Breisach, situated along the Rhine about halfway between Freiburg and Colmar, where we connected with the bus to Colmar in the Alsace region of France (train covered by KOMBI Ticket, bus 17 EUR return for two). It was still dark at 8:30 am and we were in for yet another gloomy day - I’d read that Freiburg im Breisgau was the sunniest and warmest city in Germany, but we’d yet to see any evidence of that.
We enjoyed the bus ride, which wound through several small towns and countryside and deposited us in Colmar around 9:30, not sure where to go once we got off the bus. A woman noticed our confusion and offered her help, and although much appreciated, it was lost on us non-French speakers. An English speaking woman overheard the conversation (such that it was) and generously pointed us in the direction of the pedestrian center, home to Colmar’s five Christmas markets.
After locating the tourist office for a map, bus schedule and directions to the nearest loo, we set about exploring the festive streets of Colmar, which I instantly fell in love with. Fabulous looking patisseries, boulangeries, chocolatiers and cheese shops lined the streets, as did cafes, pubs and chocolate box buildings. It was quaint overload. We soon found ourselves ensconced in the cozy Jupiter Café for a pre-lunch libation of Leffe Brune on tap and Irish coffee (14 EUR), the café full with other like-minded folk.
We wandered through the markets, wishing we’d brought our warmer coats, noticing that the wares sold here were quite different to those in Germany. We sampled Vin Chaud, liking it much better than gluhwein, wondering if it was a source of pride for the French. Instead of bratwurst and kartoffelpuffer, the food vendors were selling warm soup, baked goods, marzipan, and a surprising (to me) abundance of brezels. The smell of ripe cheese permeated the air.
We randomly popped into Schwendi Bier Wistub at 23 Grand Rue, which was brimming with customers, so we sat at the bar and ordered lunch – French onion soup and salad for me, a decadent plate of Roesti Munster for Bill that was much more cream and cheese than potatoes...and seriously good...a wheat beer and Irish coffee rounded out a rather excellent meal (37 EUR).
After lunch we meandered while nibbling a chocolate crepe, me quickly regretting that I’d not held out for one with Nutella. We sought out a shop I’d seen earlier and purchased a set of Alsace wine glasses, which miraculously survived the trip back to Perth.
We happened upon an indoor farmer’s market with an overwhelming assortment of every type of food imaginable, and eventually ended up at a park with an outdoor ice rink, where we watched kids skate and adults imbibe in afternoon refreshments on a moving carousel bar. Gloomy skies and all, Colmar had stolen my heart.
Thanks to traffic, some pretty erratic drivers and road construction, our unhappy bus driver muttering his discontent the entire way, it took some time to get back to Breisach, where, as expected, we’d missed our train, and had to wait about 40 minutes for the next one.
Photos here:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7649835544670/
To be continued...
Jan 22nd, 2015, 10:09 AM
#9
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I am really enjoying your report and pictures. You have made me want to add this part of Europe to my future travel plans...especially around Christmas time. I love all of the Christmas market pictures.
Dawn
Dawn
Jan 22nd, 2015, 02:23 PM
#12
December 18 – A bust of a day in the Black Forest
Another wonderful breakfast, and yes, more gloom, a recurring theme. We took the 8:40 am train to Titisee in the southern Black Forest, hoping to find a six km walk around the lake I’d read about. We found the lake, but the path disappeared into private property within minutes and then seemed to resume alongside the road...we weren’t interested in walking alongside a road, so we bailed, but not before popping into the seemingly deserted Brugger’s Hotel Park Am See, where we managed to talk a young man into making us a couple of mid-morning Irish coffees, spurring an impromptu drinks making lesson from what appeared to be the hotel proprietor, a resounding success (5.50 EUR each).
We then took the train to Feldberg-Barental and the bus to Feldberg, the highest mountain in the Black Forest and Germany’s highest mountain outside of the Alps at a whopping 4,898 feet, which claims to have one of the most extensive panoramic views in Germany – especially in winter when there’s a temperature inversion.
Not today. We knew well before we got there that our efforts had been wasted; the weather turned to complete rubbish as the bus climbed; the views invisible due to thick fog; the minute we stepped off the bus we were slapped in the face by fierce wind-driven slush. We slogged through the slush and mud to the Bergbahn, which was understandably closed. I was so disgusted with the foul weather that I didn’t even want to stick around to explore the visitor center and shops; I just wanted to leave, probably setting a record for the world’s fastest retreat.
It was just that kind of day.
Potatoes beckoning, we retraced our steps to Freiburg and sought out Das Kartoffelhaus, a promising restaurant I’d run across during my pre-trip research. A short tram ride and walk later we were enjoying yet another fattening lunch, Gratin Lamm for Bill, Raclette Speck for me, salad and beverages for both (36.40 EUR). The food and atmosphere were lovely, the service not-so-much.
We explored the nearby St Johann Church, then walked to Hausbrauerei Feierling, Bill very much looking forward to their house made wheat beer, which I’d read about, but evidently doesn’t exist (perhaps it's seasonal?). We wiled away a few hours soaking up the German beer hall atmosphere, chatting up the waitress who told us she’d lived in Freiburg 14 years and had never seen such dismal weather, sampling various hops and grapes and marveling over how inexpensive they were compared to Perth (11 EUR). Afterwards we wandered through a very festive Freiburg, dodging commuters and frenzied Christmas shoppers, everyone seeming to have a dogged purpose except for the two of us, who just seemed to get in everyone’s way.
We returned to the Christmas Market, which felt entirely different than it had on Monday, the bratwurst was grilling, the crepes were sizzling and the gluhwein was flowing. After winding down with a pricy Irish coffee in the non-smoking Hemingway’s Bar at the Best Western (9.50 EUR each), we made it another early night.
To be continued...
Another wonderful breakfast, and yes, more gloom, a recurring theme. We took the 8:40 am train to Titisee in the southern Black Forest, hoping to find a six km walk around the lake I’d read about. We found the lake, but the path disappeared into private property within minutes and then seemed to resume alongside the road...we weren’t interested in walking alongside a road, so we bailed, but not before popping into the seemingly deserted Brugger’s Hotel Park Am See, where we managed to talk a young man into making us a couple of mid-morning Irish coffees, spurring an impromptu drinks making lesson from what appeared to be the hotel proprietor, a resounding success (5.50 EUR each).
We then took the train to Feldberg-Barental and the bus to Feldberg, the highest mountain in the Black Forest and Germany’s highest mountain outside of the Alps at a whopping 4,898 feet
, which claims to have one of the most extensive panoramic views in Germany – especially in winter when there’s a temperature inversion.Not today. We knew well before we got there that our efforts had been wasted; the weather turned to complete rubbish as the bus climbed; the views invisible due to thick fog; the minute we stepped off the bus we were slapped in the face by fierce wind-driven slush. We slogged through the slush and mud to the Bergbahn, which was understandably closed. I was so disgusted with the foul weather that I didn’t even want to stick around to explore the visitor center and shops; I just wanted to leave, probably setting a record for the world’s fastest retreat.
It was just that kind of day.
Potatoes beckoning, we retraced our steps to Freiburg and sought out Das Kartoffelhaus, a promising restaurant I’d run across during my pre-trip research. A short tram ride and walk later we were enjoying yet another fattening lunch, Gratin Lamm for Bill, Raclette Speck for me, salad and beverages for both (36.40 EUR). The food and atmosphere were lovely, the service not-so-much.
We explored the nearby St Johann Church, then walked to Hausbrauerei Feierling, Bill very much looking forward to their house made wheat beer, which I’d read about, but evidently doesn’t exist (perhaps it's seasonal?). We wiled away a few hours soaking up the German beer hall atmosphere, chatting up the waitress who told us she’d lived in Freiburg 14 years and had never seen such dismal weather, sampling various hops and grapes and marveling over how inexpensive they were compared to Perth (11 EUR). Afterwards we wandered through a very festive Freiburg, dodging commuters and frenzied Christmas shoppers, everyone seeming to have a dogged purpose except for the two of us, who just seemed to get in everyone’s way.
We returned to the Christmas Market, which felt entirely different than it had on Monday, the bratwurst was grilling, the crepes were sizzling and the gluhwein was flowing. After winding down with a pricy Irish coffee in the non-smoking Hemingway’s Bar at the Best Western (9.50 EUR each), we made it another early night.
To be continued...
Jan 22nd, 2015, 10:06 PM
#13
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I'm really loving your report, Melnq8! I love how you find new destinations (well, new to me!), and make them live in my imagination. It sounds like a great trip, and I look forward to hearing more!
s
s
Jan 23rd, 2015, 02:54 AM
#14
I loved Colmar, too. We stopped there after visiting the car museum in Mulhouse (amazing, and I am no car fan), but the boys had lost interest in wandering by then 
.
My mother used to make kartoffelpuffer which I have not attempted, but our Aussie version of rosti (grated potato, egg, bit of flour) on the bbq is very comforting (I hate to confess the kids put tomato sauce on it).
. My mother used to make kartoffelpuffer which I have not attempted, but our Aussie version of rosti (grated potato, egg, bit of flour) on the bbq is very comforting (I hate to confess the kids put tomato sauce on it).
Jan 23rd, 2015, 08:06 AM
#15
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Love the report. Very sorry for the bad weather - you were very unfortunate, usually it's much better. The pictures are fantastic - you have a photographer's eye
Another fan of Colmar here. The Christmas market food/drinks there look somewhat different from German ones - bet they were yummy.
Wheat beer should not be seasonal, but it seems it is at Feierling. Too bad
Keep it coming!
I.
Another fan of Colmar here. The Christmas market food/drinks there look somewhat different from German ones - bet they were yummy.
Wheat beer should not be seasonal, but it seems it is at Feierling. Too bad
Keep it coming!
I.
Jan 23rd, 2015, 05:50 PM
#17
December 19 – When Freiburg hands you crap weather, drink beer, people watch and take a long nap
The weather gods continued to conspire against us; we woke to rain and fierce wind. We bundled up in our rain gear and walked from our hotel to the 456 meter tree-dotted hill from which protrudes Schlossberg Tower, east of Freiburg’s Old Town. Perhaps a local can shed some light on the significance of this rather ugly structure, as I have no clue. We worked our way up the hill and then climbed the 167 steps of the iron tower – which was trembling in the blow-you-off-the-edge-rip-your-hair-from-its-roots-intense wind - despite the low cloud there were some fabulous views from up here and a thin strip of sunshine off in the far distance – our first of the trip - giving me a fleeting glimmer of hope that the clouds would eventually part (they didn’t).
Retreating from the ferocious wind of the tower, we explored some of the hillside tracks. We could see Ganter Brewery below, so we walked back into town, sought out the brewery and inquired about possible tours. A few calls were made, a confusing mixed language conversation ensued and we were told they ‘might’ have a tour at 6:30 pm that evening (we didn’t follow up).
We hopped on and off a couple of trams just to see where they’d go, then mysteriously ended up at Feierling again, where we settled in and watched the world go by from our perch near the windows – a school group examining the building, a city of bicyclists cruising by, empty growlers coming in, full growlers leaving. Unsure if I wanted another round, our cute little waitress suggested a spritzer, half wine, half soda, which fit the bill nicely.
We wandered back to the Munsterplatz market, situated beneath the looming Minster Cathedral – the wind was kicking up a serious fuss and the vendors were frantically trying to pack up their goods. We noshed on bratwurst and watched the frenzy. After popping into the cathedral for a peek, we worked our way back to the Christmas Market for one last shared plate of kartoffelpuffer before returning to our cozy hotel for a serious nap.
The consensus? Two thumbs up for Freiburg im Breisgau. We rather enjoyed our purposeless wandering, people watching and eating and drinking with abandon. We’ve already discussed a possible return trip, perhaps at a time of year when the weather might be more conducive to long walks and Black Forest exploration.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7649914796527/
To be continued...
The weather gods continued to conspire against us; we woke to rain and fierce wind. We bundled up in our rain gear and walked from our hotel to the 456 meter tree-dotted hill from which protrudes Schlossberg Tower, east of Freiburg’s Old Town. Perhaps a local can shed some light on the significance of this rather ugly structure, as I have no clue. We worked our way up the hill and then climbed the 167 steps of the iron tower – which was trembling in the blow-you-off-the-edge-rip-your-hair-from-its-roots-intense wind - despite the low cloud there were some fabulous views from up here and a thin strip of sunshine off in the far distance – our first of the trip - giving me a fleeting glimmer of hope that the clouds would eventually part (they didn’t).
Retreating from the ferocious wind of the tower, we explored some of the hillside tracks. We could see Ganter Brewery below, so we walked back into town, sought out the brewery and inquired about possible tours. A few calls were made, a confusing mixed language conversation ensued and we were told they ‘might’ have a tour at 6:30 pm that evening (we didn’t follow up).
We hopped on and off a couple of trams just to see where they’d go, then mysteriously ended up at Feierling again, where we settled in and watched the world go by from our perch near the windows – a school group examining the building, a city of bicyclists cruising by, empty growlers coming in, full growlers leaving. Unsure if I wanted another round, our cute little waitress suggested a spritzer, half wine, half soda, which fit the bill nicely.
We wandered back to the Munsterplatz market, situated beneath the looming Minster Cathedral – the wind was kicking up a serious fuss and the vendors were frantically trying to pack up their goods. We noshed on bratwurst and watched the frenzy. After popping into the cathedral for a peek, we worked our way back to the Christmas Market for one last shared plate of kartoffelpuffer before returning to our cozy hotel for a serious nap.
The consensus? Two thumbs up for Freiburg im Breisgau. We rather enjoyed our purposeless wandering, people watching and eating and drinking with abandon. We’ve already discussed a possible return trip, perhaps at a time of year when the weather might be more conducive to long walks and Black Forest exploration.
https://www.flickr.com/photos/melnq8...7649914796527/
To be continued...
Jan 25th, 2015, 03:55 PM
#18
December 20 – Scuol, here we come
After one last fabulous breakfast we bid adieu to Hotel Minerva, the owner telling us that the hotel would be closing the next day for three weeks, while they went to New Zealand to visit their daughter.
We’d tried to sort out how far our KOMBI tickets would get us towards Basel, but in the end we decided to just buy a Baden-Wurttemburg saver ticket for two persons at 28 EUR. Beyond Basel, our Swiss Pass was valid for the remainder of our time in Switzerland.
We’d not seen the sun in our five days in Freiburg, but as we boarded our train to leave, there it was!
The plan was to change trains at Basel Bad and then again at Basel for a direct train to Landquart, but upon arrival in Basel we discovered that the train to Landquart was a TGV train, which required reservations. Oops. No worries, a helpful conductor in Basel got us sorted by pointing out a train to Zurich, which we then took to Landquart. From there we caught a train to the spa town of Scuol in the Swiss Canton of Graubunden, which shares international borders with Austria, Italy and Liechtenstein. We arrived at Scuol –Tarasp, the terminal station of the Rhaetian Railway, just past 3 pm.
We knew from last year that the most direct walking route to our apartment was via a meadow near the Motta Naluns cable car station. What we didn’t know was that the meadow was a sea of gumbo, thanks to the unseasonably warm weather and complete lack of snow. By the time we reached the apartment, the wheels of our suitcases were immobilized with packed muck, and our boots and pant legs were a mess, necessitating a 45 minute clean up.
Wohung Erni is located on the bottom level of a three story house occupied by Verena Erni and her family. It’s ideal for two people, spotless, comfortable and with just enough space. The internet is fast, free and flawless, the kitchen perfectly set up for self-catering and the Nespresso machine a much appreciated bonus for caffeine addicts. They don’t call this part of town Upper Scuol without reason, the house is situated at the top of a series of impossibly steep hills; a definite challenge when walking up from the center of town, but an easy (albeit muddy) walk from the train station.
http://www.verenaerni.ch/01-fotos-erni.htm
As last year, Verena had agreed to accept cash upon arrival, no contract necessary, so after settling up with her (880 CHF for the week) and learning that a new (and closer) COOP grocery store had opened since last year, we made our first of many treks down and back UP the hills to/from the apartment for provisions. Our breakfasts over the next two weeks would be fattening fry-ups of pancetta, rosti and eggs... and for me, plenty of mochas and lattes with full fat milk. We’d need that energy for a week of countless trips up and down the hills of Scuol.
We next sought out Mund Art, our favorite Scuol discovery from last year, very much anticipating their incredible Irish coffee, just to find it had been replaced with Café and Weinbar Incontro. No Irish coffee on offer, so we settled for Manner Lattes with Irish Whisky instead –they were okay, but not what we’d been craving (8.50 CHF each).
After a leisurely walk through town, we made a bee line to Hotel Collina Pizzeria, another discovery from last year, only to be disappointed again; they were closed until December 26. Forced to expand our horizons or go hungry, we walked back through town looking for a dinner venue, surprised at how many places were closed considering it was Christmas week, high season in Scuol.
Enter Pizzeria Taverna, located at the opposite end of town from our apartment, open and bustling, and as it turned out, home to some darn good pizza (50 CHF, two big pizzas & drinks). After a lovely meal, we slowly walked back through Scuol one more time, festively lit for the holidays, and back up the alp to our apartment.
To be continued....
After one last fabulous breakfast we bid adieu to Hotel Minerva, the owner telling us that the hotel would be closing the next day for three weeks, while they went to New Zealand to visit their daughter.
We’d tried to sort out how far our KOMBI tickets would get us towards Basel, but in the end we decided to just buy a Baden-Wurttemburg saver ticket for two persons at 28 EUR. Beyond Basel, our Swiss Pass was valid for the remainder of our time in Switzerland.
We’d not seen the sun in our five days in Freiburg, but as we boarded our train to leave, there it was!
The plan was to change trains at Basel Bad and then again at Basel for a direct train to Landquart, but upon arrival in Basel we discovered that the train to Landquart was a TGV train, which required reservations. Oops. No worries, a helpful conductor in Basel got us sorted by pointing out a train to Zurich, which we then took to Landquart. From there we caught a train to the spa town of Scuol in the Swiss Canton of Graubunden, which shares international borders with Austria, Italy and Liechtenstein. We arrived at Scuol –Tarasp, the terminal station of the Rhaetian Railway, just past 3 pm.
We knew from last year that the most direct walking route to our apartment was via a meadow near the Motta Naluns cable car station. What we didn’t know was that the meadow was a sea of gumbo, thanks to the unseasonably warm weather and complete lack of snow. By the time we reached the apartment, the wheels of our suitcases were immobilized with packed muck, and our boots and pant legs were a mess, necessitating a 45 minute clean up.
Wohung Erni is located on the bottom level of a three story house occupied by Verena Erni and her family. It’s ideal for two people, spotless, comfortable and with just enough space. The internet is fast, free and flawless, the kitchen perfectly set up for self-catering and the Nespresso machine a much appreciated bonus for caffeine addicts. They don’t call this part of town Upper Scuol without reason, the house is situated at the top of a series of impossibly steep hills; a definite challenge when walking up from the center of town, but an easy (albeit muddy) walk from the train station.
http://www.verenaerni.ch/01-fotos-erni.htm
As last year, Verena had agreed to accept cash upon arrival, no contract necessary, so after settling up with her (880 CHF for the week) and learning that a new (and closer) COOP grocery store had opened since last year, we made our first of many treks down and back UP the hills to/from the apartment for provisions. Our breakfasts over the next two weeks would be fattening fry-ups of pancetta, rosti and eggs... and for me, plenty of mochas and lattes with full fat milk. We’d need that energy for a week of countless trips up and down the hills of Scuol.
We next sought out Mund Art, our favorite Scuol discovery from last year, very much anticipating their incredible Irish coffee, just to find it had been replaced with Café and Weinbar Incontro. No Irish coffee on offer, so we settled for Manner Lattes with Irish Whisky instead –they were okay, but not what we’d been craving (8.50 CHF each).
After a leisurely walk through town, we made a bee line to Hotel Collina Pizzeria, another discovery from last year, only to be disappointed again; they were closed until December 26. Forced to expand our horizons or go hungry, we walked back through town looking for a dinner venue, surprised at how many places were closed considering it was Christmas week, high season in Scuol.
Enter Pizzeria Taverna, located at the opposite end of town from our apartment, open and bustling, and as it turned out, home to some darn good pizza (50 CHF, two big pizzas & drinks). After a lovely meal, we slowly walked back through Scuol one more time, festively lit for the holidays, and back up the alp to our apartment.
To be continued....
