Suggestions for fall trip to Brittany
Jul 11th, 2017, 09:48 AM
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Suggestions for fall trip to Brittany
My husband are I are 73 and 75, in good health for our age (minus some orthopedic issues) and are planning a trip to Brittany for this coming fall. Our usual way of traveling these days is to pick a place (or two) to stay to base ourselves for 2-3 weeks. Sometimes we rent gites, and other times we prefer B&B’s. We prefer our lodging to be no more than an hour or so from any touring destination, like being in the center of a bicycle wheel with the spokes radiating outward.
For this trip, with this preference, we are thinking of concentrating on the southern coast of Brittany for this trip, but are open to suggestions. Our plan is to take the TGV directly from CDG to possibly Rennes where we will stay for a couple of days to see the city and recover from jet lag. Then we will head south and west, possibly spending a week or so in the area around Quimper and another week more east around the Gulf of Morbihan.
1. Are there enough things to do and explore in both areas, and does it make sense to do this? We could spend a couple of days in St Malo area, but think it is better to concentrate on one region at a time. And less driving. Smart or not?
2. Should we rent a car in Rennes or take the train to one of our destinations before renting a car?
How are the roads in this area? Is it easy to rent a car farther west, say, around Quimper?
Picking what kind of lodging often depends on where we are going and time of year. If we are looking for a place in the countryside, we tend to look for a B&B or small inn that serves dinner as well as breakfast. This is because we find that driving at night on unfamiliar roads can be tricky. In addition, we respect French law about drinking and driving, so don’t like to have wine at dinner if we then need to drive back to our place.
Therefore we tend to prefer basing ourselves in or near towns where there are a few choices of restaurants. If they are too limited, or not very interesting or special, we might decide to have our larger meal at lunch, but we tend to be flexible. As examples, we have used Bonnieux and Sarlat in France, and Montepulciano in Italy as bases for past trips. We love the opportunity to walk around a village after dinner, chatting with people, having late night café and dessert, before returning to our rental or inn.
Larry and I are social and love the opportunity to talk with residents and tourists while traveling. It would be great to find a place that serves some family style dinners, where the guests can have lively conversations, though we understand that this style of eating is less likely in France than in, either Spain or Italy.
3. Do any of you have suggestions on which towns to base ourselves in both areas?
4. Does anyone have any lodging suggestions?
5. Any restaurant recommendations?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. And, yes, we do have Stu Dudley’s itinerary.
-Margie
For this trip, with this preference, we are thinking of concentrating on the southern coast of Brittany for this trip, but are open to suggestions. Our plan is to take the TGV directly from CDG to possibly Rennes where we will stay for a couple of days to see the city and recover from jet lag. Then we will head south and west, possibly spending a week or so in the area around Quimper and another week more east around the Gulf of Morbihan.
1. Are there enough things to do and explore in both areas, and does it make sense to do this? We could spend a couple of days in St Malo area, but think it is better to concentrate on one region at a time. And less driving. Smart or not?
2. Should we rent a car in Rennes or take the train to one of our destinations before renting a car?
How are the roads in this area? Is it easy to rent a car farther west, say, around Quimper?
Picking what kind of lodging often depends on where we are going and time of year. If we are looking for a place in the countryside, we tend to look for a B&B or small inn that serves dinner as well as breakfast. This is because we find that driving at night on unfamiliar roads can be tricky. In addition, we respect French law about drinking and driving, so don’t like to have wine at dinner if we then need to drive back to our place.
Therefore we tend to prefer basing ourselves in or near towns where there are a few choices of restaurants. If they are too limited, or not very interesting or special, we might decide to have our larger meal at lunch, but we tend to be flexible. As examples, we have used Bonnieux and Sarlat in France, and Montepulciano in Italy as bases for past trips. We love the opportunity to walk around a village after dinner, chatting with people, having late night café and dessert, before returning to our rental or inn.
Larry and I are social and love the opportunity to talk with residents and tourists while traveling. It would be great to find a place that serves some family style dinners, where the guests can have lively conversations, though we understand that this style of eating is less likely in France than in, either Spain or Italy.
3. Do any of you have suggestions on which towns to base ourselves in both areas?
4. Does anyone have any lodging suggestions?
5. Any restaurant recommendations?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions. And, yes, we do have Stu Dudley’s itinerary.
-Margie
Jul 11th, 2017, 10:45 AM
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If you stay 2 or 3 weeks in Brittany, you could choose 2 bases :
- 1 near the Gulf of Morbihan, for example Vannes, if you look for a city with easy access to the train station and various towns around (or Auray, Locmariaquer...). The other one could be Quimper, Concarneau, Pont Aven...
- 1 on the south coast (near Gulf of Morbihan), 1 on the north coast (St Malo, Dinan, Combourg...)
Anyway there are enough places to see whether you choose the south or the north coast.
It is easy to rent a car in any city in Brittany, including Quimper. So it is up to you to rent the car in Rennes or in another place, depending on your wish to stop along the road.
You may get some ideas about places to see in Brittany on http://visite.bretagne.free.fr/index...ineraries.html
- 1 near the Gulf of Morbihan, for example Vannes, if you look for a city with easy access to the train station and various towns around (or Auray, Locmariaquer...). The other one could be Quimper, Concarneau, Pont Aven...
- 1 on the south coast (near Gulf of Morbihan), 1 on the north coast (St Malo, Dinan, Combourg...)
Anyway there are enough places to see whether you choose the south or the north coast.
It is easy to rent a car in any city in Brittany, including Quimper. So it is up to you to rent the car in Rennes or in another place, depending on your wish to stop along the road.
You may get some ideas about places to see in Brittany on http://visite.bretagne.free.fr/index...ineraries.html
Jul 11th, 2017, 10:47 AM
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If you have my itinerary, then you know that we prefer northern Brittany over southern Brittany. We've spent 2 weeks near Dinan in a Gite & 2 weeks near the pink rocks section in Penvenen & thought those areas were more interesting than the Pont Aven/Quimper region - where we also spent some time.
Next year we're planning on spending 2 weeks in a gite near Vannes & 2 weeks near Concarneau. We'll either take the TGV from CDG to Rennes, or from Paris to either Rennes or Vannes. We'll return from Quimper to Paris on the TGV, SNCF is working on a "new" TGV from Paris to Rennes - which will make the trip much faster. In 2019, we're planning on 2 weeks near Dinan again.
We've picked up & dropped off cars in Rennes several times & it's easy.
Stu Dudley
Next year we're planning on spending 2 weeks in a gite near Vannes & 2 weeks near Concarneau. We'll either take the TGV from CDG to Rennes, or from Paris to either Rennes or Vannes. We'll return from Quimper to Paris on the TGV, SNCF is working on a "new" TGV from Paris to Rennes - which will make the trip much faster. In 2019, we're planning on 2 weeks near Dinan again.
We've picked up & dropped off cars in Rennes several times & it's easy.
Stu Dudley
Jul 11th, 2017, 10:49 AM
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About the train -book TGV tickets in advance for discounts at www.voyages-sncf.com but they are train-specific and can't be changed nor refunded so when landing build in some fudge factor time-CDG has many restaurants, cafes, stores, etc if you need to dwell there for a few hours.
I'd take train to Rennes and stay there first night. A nice city -then head for coastal areas.
For lots on trains check www.seat61.com (adroit advice on discounted tickets); www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.
La Rochelle and the Ile of Re were highlights for us -Mont-Saint-Michel is also in Brittany and of course worth a stay - staying overnight is best as after the tourist hoards have departed the island takes on a mysterious silence - many hotels on mainland opposite the causeway and from there you can walk over the causeway to entrance and also at night see the unforgettable spector of the Mont gloriously lit up at night.
I'd take train to Rennes and stay there first night. A nice city -then head for coastal areas.
For lots on trains check www.seat61.com (adroit advice on discounted tickets); www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.ricksteves.com.
La Rochelle and the Ile of Re were highlights for us -Mont-Saint-Michel is also in Brittany and of course worth a stay - staying overnight is best as after the tourist hoards have departed the island takes on a mysterious silence - many hotels on mainland opposite the causeway and from there you can walk over the causeway to entrance and also at night see the unforgettable spector of the Mont gloriously lit up at night.
Jul 11th, 2017, 10:59 AM
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get Stu's itinerary, it is a good starting point. Also get the Michelin Green guide for Brittany (might as well get the Normandy one too, the areas adjoin. They cover just about every town and have suggested driving tours.
I started out similar to you, took the train to Rennes and spent a few nites there before picking up a car. The rental car lot is right by the train station, easy to find although they were doing some remodeling work 2 years ago and the rental offices themselves where temporarily in a trailer.
The roads are in great shape, easy to drive, and not a lot of traffic. Be sure to learn the road signs and understand the rules of priority in intersections. I brought a GPS from home and would recommend doing that; it is especially helpful when you get near a town and need to run a gamut of roundabouts (or are passing thru such a town).
I spent 10 days and visited both Brittany and Normandy and could easily go back for another 10! So I think there is enough to do. In Brittany I stayed in Dinan and liked the town; it seems to have what you want with several restaurants, places to stroll (although the town is hilly), and central location. Probably many other towns would work quite as well.
I suggest both planning in advance and being open to serendipity. For example doing a coastal drive one day I went by a small town and saw a farmers market going on. Parked, walked around and had lunch, it was a great part of the day, and not something I would have known I wanted to do in advance.
I started out similar to you, took the train to Rennes and spent a few nites there before picking up a car. The rental car lot is right by the train station, easy to find although they were doing some remodeling work 2 years ago and the rental offices themselves where temporarily in a trailer.
The roads are in great shape, easy to drive, and not a lot of traffic. Be sure to learn the road signs and understand the rules of priority in intersections. I brought a GPS from home and would recommend doing that; it is especially helpful when you get near a town and need to run a gamut of roundabouts (or are passing thru such a town).
I spent 10 days and visited both Brittany and Normandy and could easily go back for another 10! So I think there is enough to do. In Brittany I stayed in Dinan and liked the town; it seems to have what you want with several restaurants, places to stroll (although the town is hilly), and central location. Probably many other towns would work quite as well.
I suggest both planning in advance and being open to serendipity. For example doing a coastal drive one day I went by a small town and saw a farmers market going on. Parked, walked around and had lunch, it was a great part of the day, and not something I would have known I wanted to do in advance.
Jul 11th, 2017, 11:03 AM
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One more comment since I saw someone mention Vannes. I stayed there also 2 nites before I picked up my car (I went from Paris to Vannes, then onto Rennes) and nothing wrong with the town, it has a nice medieval area and some restaurants down by the dock. But it turns out it is not actually on the coast, it is a few miles inland and the boats take a river from the harbor to the Gulf. However if I go back to the area again I'd stay somewhere else on the ocean or gulf.
Jul 11th, 2017, 11:29 AM
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Thanks. The reason why we are thinking of concentrating on the southern area for this trip is that we hope to go to the northern coast as well as to Normandy for an extended visit sometime during the next couple of years with our daughters and their families. That certainly doesn't mean that we can't go twice, but the southern area also interests us.
We do have some family friends who have retired to their summer home in St Malo and have invited us for a short visit, but they are going to Pau in southern France to see their daughter and grandchildren shortly after our arrival. We could go there after a night or two in Rennes and go north for probably no more than 2 nights. We could then make our way south- would that be doable?
Thanks for the suggestion of Vannes. In general, we don't like largish towns too much, preferring the ambiance of smaller ones, but it is hard to decide at a distance.
We have a French copy of the Green Guide, but, although I can read it, for this purpose, I think I need to get an English one and some good maps.
We do have some family friends who have retired to their summer home in St Malo and have invited us for a short visit, but they are going to Pau in southern France to see their daughter and grandchildren shortly after our arrival. We could go there after a night or two in Rennes and go north for probably no more than 2 nights. We could then make our way south- would that be doable?
Thanks for the suggestion of Vannes. In general, we don't like largish towns too much, preferring the ambiance of smaller ones, but it is hard to decide at a distance.
We have a French copy of the Green Guide, but, although I can read it, for this purpose, I think I need to get an English one and some good maps.
Jul 11th, 2017, 12:02 PM
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Cadogan has an excellent guide for Brittany.
https://www.amazon.com/Brittany-Cado...dogan+brittany
Stu Dudley
https://www.amazon.com/Brittany-Cado...dogan+brittany
Stu Dudley
Jul 11th, 2017, 04:50 PM
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I loved Rennes! I would encourage you to explore your options for that city, and yes, wait to rent a car until you are fully over jet lag. I had a stunning dinner in Rennes at Le Cours des Lices, which still gets very good reviews.
I also enjoyed Vannes. As others have noted, it could be a good base for that area, particularly if your interests include the prehistoric monuments of the region.
I must admit that I was not enamored of St. Malo – it was a bit too “stage-set-y” for me.
In contrast, I adored Ploumanac'h (where I stayed and dined at the Hotel des Rochers, which I highly recommend). It may be a bit too small for your interests, but you might look into it, as it would be a good base for the north coast (in particular, the stunning Cote de Granit Rose) and the calvery closes of the area.
I would also strongly encourage you to get the Michelin Green Guide to the area – even more invaluable that Stu D’s itinerary, and IMO, that says a lot!
I also enjoyed Vannes. As others have noted, it could be a good base for that area, particularly if your interests include the prehistoric monuments of the region.
I must admit that I was not enamored of St. Malo – it was a bit too “stage-set-y” for me.
In contrast, I adored Ploumanac'h (where I stayed and dined at the Hotel des Rochers, which I highly recommend). It may be a bit too small for your interests, but you might look into it, as it would be a good base for the north coast (in particular, the stunning Cote de Granit Rose) and the calvery closes of the area.
I would also strongly encourage you to get the Michelin Green Guide to the area – even more invaluable that Stu D’s itinerary, and IMO, that says a lot!
Jul 12th, 2017, 04:06 AM
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A few years ago we spent a week or so in Brittany, with time split between the north (Dinan) and the south (Pont-Aven.) We enjoyed the south immensely but both areas are superb.
Here's a trip report I filed back then (which also included time in Scotland and Strasbourg.) http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-movements.cfm
Here's a trip report I filed back then (which also included time in Scotland and Strasbourg.) http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-movements.cfm
Jul 13th, 2017, 01:40 AM
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We've done three trips along the southern shore of Brittany dividing our time roughly as you intend to do and count them among the most enjoyable of all our travels. Two things stand out beside the scenery and food--their wonderful markets and the Ville Fleuris with their fantastic flowers spread throughout the participating villages that enter that "contest" When describing sights on our travels, the best appellation I assign is "Charming" The area of Brittany that you have chosen is Charming to the max IMO.
Prompted by your post, I reviewed my notes from our 3 trips and can offer the following suggestions and ideas.
Depending upon where you are flying from, you may be able to fly all the way to Rennes without need to take the train which seems not to go direct from CDG to Rennes but requires you to go into Paris (by taxi or RER) before you can get from Montparnasse or other Paris train station to Rennes. You might also check out the possibility of either flying into Rennes and out of Nantes or vice versa giving you the opportunity to experience two interesting cities rather than just one. We like them both though technically Nantes is no longer considered to be in Brittany.
Our base in the more easterly stop has been La Trinite sur Mer--a smaller town than Vannes but IMO one with greater charm (that word again). It sits directly on a major harbor with some 1200-1500 sailboats moored in it and has been the starting place for some transatlantic races. We have stayed there at La Petit Hortensias and love it. It has charming rooms with views across the street to the harbor and its own rather good restaurant. If you consider it for your stay, and I highly recommend that you do, the one thing you may need to be alert to depending upon your specific orthopedic issues, is that they have no elevator and possibly only one room on the ground floor. Do a Google search and check this place out. It's really lovely. The town while having fewer restaurants than Vannes has better ones IME. Their market, though small is delightful and held on Tuesdays. Restaurants I recommend include L'Arrosier, the one at the hotel itself, L'Azimut--in the Michelin guide and just up a small hill from the hotel and Le Chantier not walkable from the hotel but the town does have taxi services. Well worth using, the food and ambiance is great, in fact charming.
More to follow after my computer does a quick update.
Prompted by your post, I reviewed my notes from our 3 trips and can offer the following suggestions and ideas.
Depending upon where you are flying from, you may be able to fly all the way to Rennes without need to take the train which seems not to go direct from CDG to Rennes but requires you to go into Paris (by taxi or RER) before you can get from Montparnasse or other Paris train station to Rennes. You might also check out the possibility of either flying into Rennes and out of Nantes or vice versa giving you the opportunity to experience two interesting cities rather than just one. We like them both though technically Nantes is no longer considered to be in Brittany.
Our base in the more easterly stop has been La Trinite sur Mer--a smaller town than Vannes but IMO one with greater charm (that word again). It sits directly on a major harbor with some 1200-1500 sailboats moored in it and has been the starting place for some transatlantic races. We have stayed there at La Petit Hortensias and love it. It has charming rooms with views across the street to the harbor and its own rather good restaurant. If you consider it for your stay, and I highly recommend that you do, the one thing you may need to be alert to depending upon your specific orthopedic issues, is that they have no elevator and possibly only one room on the ground floor. Do a Google search and check this place out. It's really lovely. The town while having fewer restaurants than Vannes has better ones IME. Their market, though small is delightful and held on Tuesdays. Restaurants I recommend include L'Arrosier, the one at the hotel itself, L'Azimut--in the Michelin guide and just up a small hill from the hotel and Le Chantier not walkable from the hotel but the town does have taxi services. Well worth using, the food and ambiance is great, in fact charming.
More to follow after my computer does a quick update.
Jul 13th, 2017, 02:33 AM
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We find the roads and traffic in Brittany to be very easy to navigate with lots of charm at every turn. We will travel up to and hour and a half in each direction from our base, so some of my suggestions may be beyond the hour you prefer, but I think you'll find most of them very worth the extra exertion and really not that taxing at all. As you plan I suggest you google both Villes Fleuri and markets in Brittany--both to learn what the current ratings of the former are (our trips were in 2009, 2010 and 2012 so the cities may be rated differently for the past year and though it's unlikely they could have changed their market days) Here are some of our favorites--and some I think you can skip--in the surrounds of La Trinite.
Vannes--big time flowers and lots of activity
La Boule--on the coast with a nice mix of modern and old, suggested especially if you do decide to fly in or out of Nantes
Guerande--close to La Boule, with its salt beds, and salt industry and lots for sale from charming little shops
St. Anne d'Auray--a big favorite with a lovely cathedral, nice park and WW1 memorial--and the lovely Auberge Hotel where Pope John Paul had lunch on his trip in the area
Auray--with a big market on Monday
A little group of three Ville Fleuri places--Rochefort en Terre (the best IMO), La Gacilly (a nice artists town) and Le Vraie Croix--tiny but with beautiful plantings and a delightful little pond--charm, charm, charm
Questembert--enormous, very ancient market hall though not a lot else IME
Rhuys penensula with Chateau des Sucino
Never went to Carnac though we tried a couple of times. Rocks just don't have the draw for me that flowers do.
Tried Quiberon but couldn't find it charming. Seemed mostly a too crowded beach.
Should you be traveling either to or away from Rennes I recommend a stop in Josselin to see its lovely flowers, its castle and its charming ancient town buildings.
Enroute between La Trinite and Concarneau--our two bases--we chose not to stop in L'Orient since I'd read nothing particularly appealing about it. We did, however, stop in Quimperle, a 3 flower Ville Fleuri with an intersting church and a wonderful art nouveau restaurant, Bistro de la Tour. Recommended highly
Our base in Concarneau has been at the delightful Sables Blanc. A very modern hotel with infinity views from the bedrooms out to see. Since it would require driving into town most nights unless you chose to dine nightly at the hotel itself (not a terrible idea since the food is very good and I'd at least recommend a stop for lunch one time if you stay in town or another nearby town) you would probably want to find something in Concarneau itself. Sorry but I can't help there though if you can find an appealing hotel, the town itself is quite animated and would seem to provide plenty of opportunities for nighly walks and reasonably good dining. Their market is quite big and lots of fun. They also have a small market hall which is open daily.
We love Pont Aven--both good flowers and good market and lots of nice galleries though the town can be choked with traffic and impossible to park in on market days. Lovely, charming walks along their river and a very good modern restaurant-Sur le Pont--right in the middle of town. Nearby is the very beautiful Moulin Rosamandec restaurant with lovely gardens but which we unfortunately found stiff and lacking in true hospitality. Pretty is as pretty does.
More to follow.
Vannes--big time flowers and lots of activity
La Boule--on the coast with a nice mix of modern and old, suggested especially if you do decide to fly in or out of Nantes
Guerande--close to La Boule, with its salt beds, and salt industry and lots for sale from charming little shops
St. Anne d'Auray--a big favorite with a lovely cathedral, nice park and WW1 memorial--and the lovely Auberge Hotel where Pope John Paul had lunch on his trip in the area
Auray--with a big market on Monday
A little group of three Ville Fleuri places--Rochefort en Terre (the best IMO), La Gacilly (a nice artists town) and Le Vraie Croix--tiny but with beautiful plantings and a delightful little pond--charm, charm, charm
Questembert--enormous, very ancient market hall though not a lot else IME
Rhuys penensula with Chateau des Sucino
Never went to Carnac though we tried a couple of times. Rocks just don't have the draw for me that flowers do.
Tried Quiberon but couldn't find it charming. Seemed mostly a too crowded beach.
Should you be traveling either to or away from Rennes I recommend a stop in Josselin to see its lovely flowers, its castle and its charming ancient town buildings.
Enroute between La Trinite and Concarneau--our two bases--we chose not to stop in L'Orient since I'd read nothing particularly appealing about it. We did, however, stop in Quimperle, a 3 flower Ville Fleuri with an intersting church and a wonderful art nouveau restaurant, Bistro de la Tour. Recommended highly
Our base in Concarneau has been at the delightful Sables Blanc. A very modern hotel with infinity views from the bedrooms out to see. Since it would require driving into town most nights unless you chose to dine nightly at the hotel itself (not a terrible idea since the food is very good and I'd at least recommend a stop for lunch one time if you stay in town or another nearby town) you would probably want to find something in Concarneau itself. Sorry but I can't help there though if you can find an appealing hotel, the town itself is quite animated and would seem to provide plenty of opportunities for nighly walks and reasonably good dining. Their market is quite big and lots of fun. They also have a small market hall which is open daily.
We love Pont Aven--both good flowers and good market and lots of nice galleries though the town can be choked with traffic and impossible to park in on market days. Lovely, charming walks along their river and a very good modern restaurant-Sur le Pont--right in the middle of town. Nearby is the very beautiful Moulin Rosamandec restaurant with lovely gardens but which we unfortunately found stiff and lacking in true hospitality. Pretty is as pretty does.
More to follow.
Jul 13th, 2017, 02:53 AM
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Should you decide to fly in or out of Nantes, I recommend the very beautiful and tasty La Cigale in the middle of town. A true art nouveau gem and a fun place.
So back to a stay in Concarneau and explorations in its surrounds.
Quimper, though a big city, has charm and a nice covered market and a 4 Fleur VF rating. Lots to explore there especially their great cathedral. I'd plan a full day. We ate at Ambrosie and enjoyed it.
You can skip Fousenant where we could not find much charm. However,I highly recommend a stop in Combrit, a tiny town across the river or estuary from Benodet (you can toggle between the two towns by short ferry ride) with a lovely hotel, Villa Tri Men in which we stayed on one trip. It's restaurant has a Michelin star and you could check to see if they serve lunch. Their grounds are lovely and relaxing and the experience would be "worth it" but they also have a more casual place directly on the water called Bistrot du Bac which we liked as much if not more than the main dining room. The drive, the charm of the small town, the good food and the boat ride to busier Benodet would make a nice day from Concarneau.
We explored farther west and north of Quimper but did not find anything worth the extra miles.
Rennes either as a first stop to recover from jet lag or as a place to wind up before a flight home should serve you well. it's a very fun city. Gotta love the tall, half timbered houses--and their nice market.
I could go on and on, but I'll stop now. Happy to answer any questions I can. I envy you the trip you'll have. It's a stunning area. One of the very best IMO Enjoy.
So back to a stay in Concarneau and explorations in its surrounds.
Quimper, though a big city, has charm and a nice covered market and a 4 Fleur VF rating. Lots to explore there especially their great cathedral. I'd plan a full day. We ate at Ambrosie and enjoyed it.
You can skip Fousenant where we could not find much charm. However,I highly recommend a stop in Combrit, a tiny town across the river or estuary from Benodet (you can toggle between the two towns by short ferry ride) with a lovely hotel, Villa Tri Men in which we stayed on one trip. It's restaurant has a Michelin star and you could check to see if they serve lunch. Their grounds are lovely and relaxing and the experience would be "worth it" but they also have a more casual place directly on the water called Bistrot du Bac which we liked as much if not more than the main dining room. The drive, the charm of the small town, the good food and the boat ride to busier Benodet would make a nice day from Concarneau.
We explored farther west and north of Quimper but did not find anything worth the extra miles.
Rennes either as a first stop to recover from jet lag or as a place to wind up before a flight home should serve you well. it's a very fun city. Gotta love the tall, half timbered houses--and their nice market.
I could go on and on, but I'll stop now. Happy to answer any questions I can. I envy you the trip you'll have. It's a stunning area. One of the very best IMO Enjoy.
Jul 13th, 2017, 06:29 AM
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Wow, Julie. Thanks so much. Your information is quite extensive and I so appreciate that you took the time to write. Fodorites are so generous.
Backing up to transportation for a minute:
1. I have a curious question about flights, please. We are planning on traveling from Boston-CDG, and I am finding flights that are less expensive than past recent years. The major two carriers are American and Delta with a myriad of code- shares for both. The cost for, say Finnair, which is code share with American, is about $450 round trip. If I reserve on American, it is $550. Why? Same flight, right? Does one get something extra if one books on the carrier itself? Better choice of seats, for example. I can't quite figure it out.
A few years ago, we booked a flight on a code share of Delta. We had trouble booking seats, and, in fact, at the airport, they needed to seat us at the last minute. I wonder if any of you have had this issue arise. I'd be willing to pay the extra if we were guaranteed of seats- well, as much as any one is these days.
2. I understand that CDG is somewhat chaotic and busy these days. Should we plan on arriving there 3 hours before our return flight?
Another question, this time about trains:
3. We are not planning on going into Paris itself on this trip. I gather that there is TGV to Rennes, but trains to other cities or towns either travel from central Paris or from Rennes itself. So, on arrival, for example, we could take a TGV to Rennes from the airport. We could either rent a car in Rennes or take another train to, say Quimper (and rent a car there). We can use the car and either return it in another town, say Vannes, and then , take the train to Rennes, before going back to CDG. Is that correct?
Silly questions I know. I just like to be organized and informed. we have been traveling south from CDG for several years, and love Provence, but have not explored the north at all. It was time!
Thanks.
Backing up to transportation for a minute:
1. I have a curious question about flights, please. We are planning on traveling from Boston-CDG, and I am finding flights that are less expensive than past recent years. The major two carriers are American and Delta with a myriad of code- shares for both. The cost for, say Finnair, which is code share with American, is about $450 round trip. If I reserve on American, it is $550. Why? Same flight, right? Does one get something extra if one books on the carrier itself? Better choice of seats, for example. I can't quite figure it out.
A few years ago, we booked a flight on a code share of Delta. We had trouble booking seats, and, in fact, at the airport, they needed to seat us at the last minute. I wonder if any of you have had this issue arise. I'd be willing to pay the extra if we were guaranteed of seats- well, as much as any one is these days.
2. I understand that CDG is somewhat chaotic and busy these days. Should we plan on arriving there 3 hours before our return flight?
Another question, this time about trains:
3. We are not planning on going into Paris itself on this trip. I gather that there is TGV to Rennes, but trains to other cities or towns either travel from central Paris or from Rennes itself. So, on arrival, for example, we could take a TGV to Rennes from the airport. We could either rent a car in Rennes or take another train to, say Quimper (and rent a car there). We can use the car and either return it in another town, say Vannes, and then , take the train to Rennes, before going back to CDG. Is that correct?
Silly questions I know. I just like to be organized and informed. we have been traveling south from CDG for several years, and love Provence, but have not explored the north at all. It was time!
Thanks.
Jul 13th, 2017, 07:10 AM
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>>. I understand that CDG is somewhat chaotic and busy these days. Should we plan on arriving there 3 hours before our return flight?<<
That's what we did 11 days ago (and 2 times per year for the past 5 years). But we departed from terminal 1. Our flight departed at 9:45 or so - so we had plenty of time.
>>3. We are not planning on going into Paris itself on this trip. I gather that there is TGV to Rennes, but trains to other cities or towns either travel from central Paris or from Rennes itself. So, on arrival, for example, we could take a TGV to Rennes from the airport. We could either rent a car in Rennes or take another train to, say Quimper (and rent a car there)<<
It depends on what day of the week you travel on, and what time your flight arrives at CDG. If you arrive on a Saturday, the TGV from CDG departs at 12:48 & arrives in Rennes at 3:26. The train station rental office closes at 4pm on Saturdays. The "downtown" rental offices close at 6 or 8pm. The train station office is open on Sundays. You won't have a problem of you travel on a week day.
If you travel through Rennes to Quimper, the same train departure from CDG arrives in Quimper at 6:40, but the rental offices close at 6:30 on week days & 6pm on Saturday. They are closed on Sunday
.
>>We can use the car and either return it in another town, say Vannes, and then , take the train to Rennes, before going back to CDG. Is that correct?<<
Yes - but the TGV to CDG departs Rennes at 12:26 & arrives at CDG at 3:12. So your flight home would have to depart sometime after 6:30 PM. There is a direct train from Vannes to Paris.
We almost always do a "one nighter" in Paris before the flight home.
Stu Dudley
That's what we did 11 days ago (and 2 times per year for the past 5 years). But we departed from terminal 1. Our flight departed at 9:45 or so - so we had plenty of time.
>>3. We are not planning on going into Paris itself on this trip. I gather that there is TGV to Rennes, but trains to other cities or towns either travel from central Paris or from Rennes itself. So, on arrival, for example, we could take a TGV to Rennes from the airport. We could either rent a car in Rennes or take another train to, say Quimper (and rent a car there)<<
It depends on what day of the week you travel on, and what time your flight arrives at CDG. If you arrive on a Saturday, the TGV from CDG departs at 12:48 & arrives in Rennes at 3:26. The train station rental office closes at 4pm on Saturdays. The "downtown" rental offices close at 6 or 8pm. The train station office is open on Sundays. You won't have a problem of you travel on a week day.
If you travel through Rennes to Quimper, the same train departure from CDG arrives in Quimper at 6:40, but the rental offices close at 6:30 on week days & 6pm on Saturday. They are closed on Sunday
.
>>We can use the car and either return it in another town, say Vannes, and then , take the train to Rennes, before going back to CDG. Is that correct?<<
Yes - but the TGV to CDG departs Rennes at 12:26 & arrives at CDG at 3:12. So your flight home would have to depart sometime after 6:30 PM. There is a direct train from Vannes to Paris.
We almost always do a "one nighter" in Paris before the flight home.
Stu Dudley
Jul 13th, 2017, 07:48 AM
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I see why you are looking to fly to CDG instead of, e.g. Rennes. The price is about $400 per person less. I did a quick check and it looks like you could get a TGV from CDG without going into Paris to go to either Rennes or Nantes. You'll want to try to coordinate times somewhat, allowing plenty of time to get your luggage and get to the train station at CDG. We did that once buying the very inexpensive PREMS tickets in advance only to have to give up our seats and the money it had cost us when one of our party arrived late and the train we had reserved, non-refundable, non-exchangable seats on had already left. So, you'll also want to factor in time to buy your tickets there.
You can most likely rent a car easily from any major rental company (or through Auto Europe) at whatever train station you decide to arrive at for your first stay and return it at the train station of your second stay. We've done that often. If you decide to spend some time in Rennes before moving on to your first major stay and don't want a car while you're in Rennes, you can most likely arrange to pick up a car at a rental office in Rennes city if the train station is not convenient to return to.
I really only have Delta experience so I can't answer your question about American and Finn Air, but I do know that while Delta generally charges the same price whether you fly one of their planes or a code share partner's plane, Delta's partners are not very cooperative about giving advance seat assignments. For that reason I try to always book only a Delta plane for the longer flights across the Atlantic. On flights where the last leg, say from CDG to another destination within France, etc, is on a code share, it really doesn't matter too much where you get assigned since those flights are quite short.
CDG is busy, though many of their renovations have straightened things out a little. Nonetheless you can't go wrong by getting to the airport for your flight home as much as 3 hours in advance of your flight time. Better to be safe than sorry. Plenty to do in the airport so you won't be bored.
You can most likely rent a car easily from any major rental company (or through Auto Europe) at whatever train station you decide to arrive at for your first stay and return it at the train station of your second stay. We've done that often. If you decide to spend some time in Rennes before moving on to your first major stay and don't want a car while you're in Rennes, you can most likely arrange to pick up a car at a rental office in Rennes city if the train station is not convenient to return to.
I really only have Delta experience so I can't answer your question about American and Finn Air, but I do know that while Delta generally charges the same price whether you fly one of their planes or a code share partner's plane, Delta's partners are not very cooperative about giving advance seat assignments. For that reason I try to always book only a Delta plane for the longer flights across the Atlantic. On flights where the last leg, say from CDG to another destination within France, etc, is on a code share, it really doesn't matter too much where you get assigned since those flights are quite short.
CDG is busy, though many of their renovations have straightened things out a little. Nonetheless you can't go wrong by getting to the airport for your flight home as much as 3 hours in advance of your flight time. Better to be safe than sorry. Plenty to do in the airport so you won't be bored.
