Depending on how 'chilled' you want to be, on the eastern side of the Dordogne, I'd recommend St Cyprien, Tremolat, Monpazier or even Domme (which can be very touristy during the day). All are small villages which have good weekly markets, village restaurants and boulangeries, and are close to many many other attractions & sites. On the western side, north of Perigueux, I think Brantome is lovely too.

We rented a house in St. Cyprien for two weeks last summer and loved the village (and the house too). As Rosemary says, there are restaurants, two boulangeries, a larger supermarket outside of town. It's near the river but not right on the river, which makes it less touristy. The Sunday market is great (and does attract tourists). St. Cyprien was also a great base for visiting other places in the Dordogne.

Here's my review of our rental house, which includes some more info about St. Cyprien: http://www.slowtrav.com/france/vr/review.asp?n=5400

(We also stayed at the Esplanade hotel in Domme... it was beautiful in the evening and absolutely peaceful in the morning, with amazing views, but teeming with tourists during the main part of the day and lots of tourist-type shops. (Great meal at the Esplanade though!)

Kathy

Thank you both. I will check out those options. Breynac looked interesing as well but I cannot find very many choices for a short term rental.

. I am also not keen on being amongst a group of holiday rental apartments>

then you can pretty much IME cratch the whole Dordogne as the villages mainly are vacation get-aways for not only French but loads of Brits who flock here.

Plus you have a slew of very wealthy foreigners who have bought houses and property here - but besides this influx of wealthy foreigners and folks from Paris seeking an old France it is still a really nice place - just that if looking for a place with no holiday flats and houses look somewhere else IME!

We've rented a gite in Salignac and found it to be a very
quiet untouristed village; not an exciting one or particularly
beautiful but very typical. Lots of places to walk, explore
and take part in touristy activities but nice to come back
after a busy day and decompress. Restos all through the
region so eating out wasn't a problem.

We also stayed at a B&B in Carlucet and had a wonderful time
wandering around this absolutely beautiful area of France.

I am neither wealthy nor British, but I have recently purchased a home in the Dordogne. Contrary to the impressions of casual visitors, purchases of holiday homes are a significant source of revenue in the region and the source of survival for many small villages that would otherwise have neither sufficient population or opportunities for young people. Those villages which do not have these opportunities often are depopulated or otherwise empty.

For example, we visited Najac in 1992 and again in 2010. In 1992, this exceptionally beautiful village was virtually empty. In 2010, with many of its properties occupied by expats, it is a thriving community.

My rant aside, if your level of fitness is good enough to ride out of the river valley on third and fourth category grades, consider one of the quieter towns on the left bank. Cenac-et-Saint-Julien and Castlenaud-La-Chapelle both come to mind. Each has their own services, and they are near to the many restaurants and shops of Beynac-et-Cazenac and La Roque-Gageac. Not too far away from Castlenaud, there are several self-catering cottages on the grounds of the Chateaux Les Milandes.

But, if you prefer more gentle slopes for your bicycling, the northern Dordogne, near Brantome, may be better for you. But, that area tends to be very costly and may be a little harder to reach.

I would also suggest you consider the most southern portion of the Dordogne, from Duras to Miramont-de-Guyenne. (The latter is in the Lot-Et-Garonne.) The villages in this area are very pretty, there are good weekly markets in many of the villages, a night market in the summer on Tuesdays in Eymet, and you will have a choice of flat or rolling hill rides, depending on the direction in which you travel.

We have friends who have a recently renovated home with 4 gites and a pool between Eymet and Miramont-de-Guyenne. If I can have your email, I will send you their information.

<<Plus you have a slew of very wealthy foreigners who have bought houses and property here - but besides this influx of wealthy foreigners and folks from Paris seeking an old France it is still a really nice place - just that if looking for a place with no holiday flats and houses look somewhere else IME!>>

BS. There might be a handful of "wealthy" folks around, but most non-French who have bought houses in the Dordogne got them for a song.

To give you some realistic perspective, you're not going to have a clue which are holiday homes and which are permanent French residences, so don't be concerned about that. Houses in the Dordogne, except for ones in busy villages (which you don't want to be in to begin with) have a good deal of distance between them, and unless you're exceptionally nosy you won't know who's in them.

Take Domme and St-Cyprien off the list - they're both crowded and highly touristed. Trémolat and Monpazier are both lovely and fit your needs, but a bit far from the main sites.

I'd suggest Tamniès, St-Génies, Salignac, St-Chamassy, St-Julien, Belvès, Paunat (a bit out of the way), St-Alvère, Cadouin, Meyrals, Bigaroque, Audrix, Manaurie, St-André d'Allas, Ste-Nathalène, Vézac, St-Crépin et Carlucet....I could go on.

Jeff has also given you some good ideas for beyond the "traditional" areas.

I wouldn't go as far north as the Brantôme area - that to me isn't half as interesting or attractive as the area around Sarlat.

I just found the card for the gites owned by our friends. I think you might find these comfortable if their cat, Basil, approves of you. gitessouthwestfrance.com

A huge second on St-Genies and St-Crepin et Carlucet. The first is my favourite small town in the Dordogne.

We rented a house, which I loved, on a property near Salignac and the two villages that muskoka mentioned (the sausage with olive that we bought at the Sunday market in St-Genies is one of my favorite food memories). There were also a pair of studio accommodations at a distance on the same property: chantepierre-sarlat.com. This was the dwelling of our neighbor, a short walk up the road: http://www.flickr.com/photos/palmeraie/3521664805, straight out of a fairy tale. Salignac was just 4 km away and had all the necessities--supermarket, ATM, pharmacy.
Here's the link to my brief trip report:
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/the-dordogne-our-rental-and-other-highlights.cfm

Thanks everyone for being so helpful! I was hoping to hear from St-Cirq as I know she is familiar with the area. Merci!
I do not want ot be with masses of tourists and I am hopeful that in early May we will be ahead of the high season. It is so difficult to blindly search on VRBO or even on the French language sites. You have all given me some excellent ideas.

I would certainly recommend St Genies. It's a lovely village with the most beautiful lauze (stone) roofs in the area. A very nice market on Sundays. And close to St Crepin, with one of the loveliest private chateaux in the region.

I too would not go to Beynac or Domme or La Roque Gageac, which are touristy and even in May will be busy. St Cyprien doesnt really do it for me, although it has a great Sunday market.

The fact is that this is an area that attracts tourists - and people with second homes - because it is beautiful. Without the tourism industry there would be virtually no work in many parts of the area. So enjoy it and take advantage of what there is.

(Carlux is not a bad village either! We've been here for going on 19 years now, and still love it)

We didn't want you to be inundated with visitors, Carlux!

Well I have spent the last couple days trying to narrow the options. I have short-listed a newly renovated cottage withing walking distance of Brantome,another cottage outside Rouffingnac (St Cernin), a house on the edge of Villefranche du Perigord and a riverfront cottage in Port St Foy near Bergerac. There are a couple of others in both Savignac de Miremont and Riberac that are also of interest. I am awaiting replies from the owners. Now I just have to figure out the best way to get there from the west coast of Canada! Bordeaux or Toulouse? We will rent a car and drive from either.

Pirouette, NONE of those is really in the "Dordogne proper," so I seriously encourage you to forget them all. Brantôme is a fine destination if you've got lots of time to venture from the Périgord Noir borth. Rouffignac is out in the middle of nowhere on a boring high plain that isn't terribly attractive and not near main sites. Villefranche du Périgord is WAY south and again not near much. Port St-Foy is boooooring and not pretty. Savignac de Miremont and Riberac are also NOT where you want to me.

Is there something about the extensive list I gave you that you don't like?

I don't like ANY of your options. Sorry.

Sorry..."where you want to be," not "me."

Contact the tourist offices in the towns I listed. They have lists of places to rent. Don't just rely on touristy rental sites.

St Cirq, I am most grateful for the list of villages you provided. I searched every single one and not all of them came up on the accommodation sites that I searched. In light of your last post, I will keep searching. I appreciate that you are familiar with the region and your suggestions mean a lot. It is difficult to find adult oriented, higher end accommodation within walking distance from a village, that has internet and WIFI (an essential due to aging, fragile parents). I am also averse to being in a holiday complex full of other tourists. As a bilingual Canadian, I was really hoping to vivre a la francaise for a brief period. Back to the drawing board!

Have a look at http://www.les-granges-hautes.fr/en/index.htm
They have chambres d'hotes and several cottages for rent. Walking distance to St Crepin, not very many amenities, but short drive to other beautiful villages. They do have WIFI

There will be other people, but not a 'holiday village full of other tourists.' Beatrice and Jean-Yves are charming and speak some English.

(Tell them Suzanne in Carlux referred you)

I agree with St Cirq that most (all) of the places you mentioned are pretty well without charm and/or badly located.

Carlux,

Funny you mentioned Les Granges. I stayed there x number of years ago..before the separate cottages. Nice people. Yes, away from the crowds and convenient to many places.

a bientot..
Joan

Les Granges Hautes is a good choice.

But practically even the smallest commune in the Dordogne will have its own website these days, so instead of contacting rental agencies you might start googling (use the French site) the commune websites, like this, e.g.:

http://www.stgenies.org/

Look in Petites Annonces or hébergement, or wherever else looks promising.

You could also look in the petites annonces for Le Sudouest.

Ww're in Vancouver and we've found flying into Toulouse and
picking up a car the least painful way to access that area.
Bordeaux is too far west for my comfort after a long flight.

We've also rented in the Lot et Garonne - again, a wonderful
area and in not over-crowded.

Thanks imimimi. The flights from Vancouver are a real challenge, especially when flying on points! I will look into Toulouse. The problem when I last checked is that flights arrive after 6:30 pm. We would either have to overnight in Toulouse or drive the 2 1/2 hours and try to locate our property in the dark. Probably not hte best option after flying for many hours.

Another option is to use our points to Paris and then pick up an Air France flight to Bordeaux at our own expense. I think that means we would have to clear customs and possibly change terminals at CDG- I am not sure. There is a connection with a three hour layover so it should be possible. My husband would rather fly than take the train. (I already suggested that as an option!)

St Cirq's advice has been very helpful. I have looked at the websites for each individual village suggested and related links, with varying degrees of success. The issue is internet/WIFI-something essential for us, as well as accommodation that will permit us to walk to and from a village, especially after a nice dinner with wine.

I am still looking but am considering the following locations: Brantome (just because it is new and nicely located, though probably further north than we want to be), St Cyprian (I know Michael says St Cyprian does not do it for him, but the property is on the outskirts of a nearby village-not in St Cyprian proper), Rouffignac (I know nothing about this location but the property is beautiful), Tayak within a 10 minute walk of Eyzies, and the last is a small gite on the outskirts of Montignac-also beautiful.

All of these properties have pools-not something we require, but nice if useable in the first couple of weeks in may (I have my doubts!)

I welcome any comments from all you Dordogne experts.

Rouffignac has a nice cave a couple km. out of town, but it is isolated compared to villages closer to the Dordogne river, and it is quite small. Montignac is better because the town is larger (more services and restaurants)--and it happens to be close to Lascaux.

Hi Pirouette, the reality is that to see a good range of rental options in these areas, you will really need to trawl through the english-speaking sites, because as someone said earlier - most of the gites are owned offhsore these days!! I still recommend Tremolat, Monpazier or St Cyprien. Practically everywhere in the Dordogne needs a car to access, so you just plan lovely daytrips to the different spots. And Monpazier is close to Toulouse airport (and the wineries of the Monbazillac & Bergerac appelations). Apart from big listing sites like Homeaway or Holiday-Lettings, have you come across smaller sites like France This Way, or Dordogne Homes?

I think rosemary's advice is totally off-base. You absolutely do not need to trawl through English-speaking sites - in fact, they will set you off in totally the wrong directions, as there are plenty of French people out there who do not speak English who are interested in renting their properties. I gave you a lot of info about how to find them.

Monpazier is nowhere near the Toulouse airport - I don't know what she's talking about.

Pirouette, if wifi is an issue for you, just get a Clé-G, purchasable from any French cell phone company. It gives you wifi access from anywhere, for a price. Go to the nearest cellphone store and ask about it.

Just bookmarking as there are some great tips and suggestions! Would love to know what you ended up doing/staying

Those of us who speak more than one language are at a distinct advantage when it comes to selecting appropriate accommodation. That being said, I still appreciate the input of those who trawl though english langauge sites.

There are small diffences that I have noticed when renting in Europe generally: sheets and towels are not always included and sometimes utilities are extra. This is not a problem if one knows to ask, but in North America, such items are most often included. We have also come across differing levels of included household staples: salt , pepper, laundry detergent, paper towels, toilette paper: some properties have nothing, others are well equipped: these observations come from our numerous rentals in Canada, the continenatal US and Hawaii,Mexico, Italy, UK, France and Portugal. There appear to be different practices in different countries and the nationality of the owner is sometimes a factor. It is what makes travel interesting!

Many have tossed out some information, including Carlux. She has some lovely places that you could ask her about. Might be just what you are looking for.

a bientot...

Joan

Pirouette, the reality is that thousands of gites across France are now owned by ex-pats. As someone posted earlier, nothing wrong with that - it's kept many small French villages alive. No point railing against the listing websites being 'touristy' either - it's a really good way to get a handle on your accom options, and they certainly won't send you in the wrong direction. Gites are listed from all over - you just need to narrow down your priorities. And thousands use them to plan holidays very happily every year! By all means visit those other sites St Cirq is suggesting, but they are not always useful if you don't speak French. In terms of Monpazier's proximity to Toulouse airport, I know from personal experience that's it's a hasslefree 2 hour or so drive from Blagnac, as the D660 is rarely too busy, making it close in comparison to other places like Sarlat, St Cyprien or Brantome. That's what I meant by 'close'. Monpazier is about 2 hours 20 mins drive from Bordeaux Airport, which I've also driven regularly. So either airport could be an option for you depending on flights. In terms of wi-fi, almost any well set-up gite offers wi-fi/internet access and satellite TV channels as standard these days, as they are very much in demand by tourists. Only the most basic, budget gites won't offer that. So you don't need to go to the expense or hassle of purchasing anything for wi-fi if you choose the right gite. In terms of choosing the appropriate village, I go back to my first comment: how 'chilled' are you hoping to be? The Perigord Vert is much quieter than Perigord Noir for example, but maybe that's what you prefer?

Thank you fellow Fodorites. I have spent the last week re-considering all your suggestions and I have also spent many hours on many websites and Google Maps (VERY useful). We have also confirmed our flights in and out of Toulouse (thanks immimi). We arrive at 17:25 so by the time we collect our luggage and pick up our rental car, we will have quite a late start on our drive to any property. DH is a fearless navigator and has done a lot of driving in France. In May the days should be longer, but it will still be dusk by the time we arrive.

I have decided that we would prefer to be closer to Sarlat, though not necessarily in the town proper. Our first option is La Maison Secrete which is right outside and we could walk everywhere. The owner says there is free parking across the street. (confirmed on Google Maps) The unit is lovely and close to everything Sarlat has to offer, but I am a little concerned about the busy aspect of the area.

The remaining options are all within walking distance of small villages. Les Granges Hautes near St. Crepin offers a converted barn (thanks Suzanne). There is a gite near Vitrac: La Tabatiere, close to canoeing and cycling. Another option is Le Petit Moulin near Proissans: the property is way too big for two (it is supposed to accommodate 4/6) but the owner has offered it at the same price point as everything else we are considering, and it is a beautiful gite. The remaining two options are near St. Pompont, a ten minute walk into town. They are both owned by the same couple and they look very romantic.

All the owners have been helpful and responsive. I regret that we can only choose one property. Is there anything to favour one location over another? Again, you input is appreciated.

Here are two listings that I am personally familiar with -- one in the heights of St. Cyprien, the other in a tiny medieval village (Baran) in the woods just a few km from St. Cyprien or Meyrals. Both are owned by Americans, and will have amenities to your taste -- the first is a Studio apartment on one level of a house that is occupied part-time by an avid cyclist who can tell you all the great routes in the area; the second is the most "authentic" and rustic, with an ancient pise floor, stone sink, small rooms, but utterly charming, peaceful, and in a beautiful setting - and in great biking country. I believe both have WiFi, but read the descriptions for yourself. As I say, I have spent time in both properties, and do not hesitate in recommending them for their excellent locations. The St. Cyprien Studio allows you to walk down into the village for cafes, groceries, market, etc. (and then hike back up to the house with your groceries!); the Baran house will require you drive a couple kilometers for shopping and restos.
1. http://www.homeaway.com/vacation-rental/reviews/p906825
2. http://www.vrbo.com/139971

Regarding La Maison Secrete, it is IN town, between the police station (a reasonably attractive building) and a parking lot. The thing that would concern me about this location is that in the back of the parking lot someone started a development several years ago, and never finished it. Mostly there is an area dug away, with a telephone or electricity pole up in the air, which no one ever took the responsibility of moving. So it's still there. That said, you could ignore it, and concentrate on what the town has to offer. If you are interested in cycling and exploring the countryside, it might not be the best choice. If you want to wander out to restaurants and cafes in the evening, then it would be a better choice.

(By the way gracejoan mentioned that I managed several properties, but in fact I don't - now enjoying retirement)

That explains the large empty lot on the satellite image. i thought it looked a little odd!

bookmarking for the useful tips!

Hi Carlux,

Glad to hear you are enjoying retirement. I am sure that many will miss your listings!!

Joan

Well, I thought I would miss the property managment too, but one of our owners in Sarlat sold the house, the other wants to spend 6 months in France, once their house in the US is sold, another moved - and we stopped renting our own property. It all came together just as I was ready to stop. We are currently in Cape Town for the winter, enjoying sun, the beautiful blue ocean, and lots of good wine)

Well, after much research, we have made a choice. I followed up with every suggestion offered by those that have responded. Some of the properties suggested were not available on our dates or were not suitable for other reasons.

We will be based in St Pompon (the gite is 10 minutes walk from town, which give a nice combination of village and rural.) I paid the deposit this morning: $50 in fees for a wire transfer! We will have to find a better way for payment of the balance.

Good choice. I know an American couple who bought a house there some years ago. Forget the name of the main restaurant in town, but it's really good.

Don't send wire transfers. Get an international draft in euros and mail it. It should cosst $5-$10.

Thanks for the tip St-Cirq. I nearly fell off my chair this morning when I received the e-mail from my bank!

We are renting from a British couple and the gite has very positive reviews from all nationalities: a good sign!

Why are you giving these links to booking.com, linkedmeup? They are of absolutely no use to the poster. She's not looking for a hotel!

Triangled.

This is mostly more questions about small towns . We are driving from Beynac-et-Cazenac to Bordeaux Airport. We are leaving Beynac on Thursday , June 20 at 2 p.m. We need to get to the airport by 12 Noon the next day. Plenty of time to drive there but also enough time to stop midway in some small charming town/ village to spend the night in a B&B / have a nice meal/ walk around the town..

Then the next morning, not be more than 1 1/2 from the BOD Airport ,,, so we have time to return the car and get to our flight by 12 noon (give or take ).

ANY SUGGESTIONS WOULD BE GREATLY APPRECIATED.

I am new to FODORS. What does IME stand for and what is a gite?

Hi Dorothy,
I think your inquiry will get more attention and feedback if you start a new subject rather than adding to this thread. Just a thought. Best of luck with your planning.
R.

If you leave Beynac around 8 a.m. you probably will make it to the airport in plenty of time, assuming that you are dropping off the car at the airport. No need for an intermediary overnight stop.

I have not read the entire offerings by our fellow Foderites...I hope you will look at the site
http://www.5dordognecottages.com/index.htm.
We have so many memories from our very long stay in the medieval village in Meyrals. My husband and I are still close with Jon and Sue Long, the owners of the fantastic Gite. Actually we Skype with them almost weekly...we talk about our kids, gardens, trips, and how we loved grilling duck breasts and sharing wine with them nightly. Their walnut grove and fruit trees, swimming pool and tiny village is not to be missed. The location is oh so central to everything of interest. Lovely varied restaurants, markets, and sites meet everyones needs. We stayed in the Magnolia House and found it to be totally perfect. It is close to Sarlat ..Dordogne River and Vezere river, the village of Les Eyzie-de-Tayac, and countless vistas. Please give it a look.

bookmarking for a possible return to the Dordogne in late summer...