Suggestions for 10 days in western Ireland
Aug 19th, 2006, 11:18 PM
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Suggestions for 10 days in western Ireland
My husband and I have decided on the spur of the moment that we want to spend 10 days in Ireland in late September. We were there 2 years ago and concentrated on the south and southwest which we simply loved. This time we want to see a different part of the country--and are thinking at this stage of the western part of the country. We will be flying into and out of Shannon. I'm thinking of spending our first night in Doolin, then traveling to Galway for 2 nights, possibly a night in Inishmore, 2 or 3 nights in Westport, and then driving up to Donegal for 2 nights. Is this too far to go for two days? I'm thinking we'll stay in Ennis the night before we leave.
Any suggestions/recommendations/personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. By the way, we are in our late 30s, fit and active, we enjoy walking, hiking, music, pubs (but not overly rowdy places), coastal drives, historical landmarks and quaint villages, among many other things, but these are most relevant to Ireland.
Any suggestions/recommendations/personal experiences would be greatly appreciated. By the way, we are in our late 30s, fit and active, we enjoy walking, hiking, music, pubs (but not overly rowdy places), coastal drives, historical landmarks and quaint villages, among many other things, but these are most relevant to Ireland.
Aug 20th, 2006, 05:50 AM
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Lisdoonvarna with its Sept. Matchmaking festival is pretty close to Doolin. Yes! It's for real; and people come from the UK and other parts of Europe seeking partners. Have a pint at John Daly's Matchmakers Pub. A couple of young ladies took me there.
After Westport you might consider an overnight stop in Ballina: Crokett's on the Quay has Trad Irish music in the front bar Mondays. They also have a pretty decent restaurant. I stopped there twice and they still send me a Christmas Card each year.
If you drive the N59 from Westport to Bangor Erris, you can 'jog' a bit further north and see the Ceide Fields
After Westport you might consider an overnight stop in Ballina: Crokett's on the Quay has Trad Irish music in the front bar Mondays. They also have a pretty decent restaurant. I stopped there twice and they still send me a Christmas Card each year.
If you drive the N59 from Westport to Bangor Erris, you can 'jog' a bit further north and see the Ceide Fields
Aug 20th, 2006, 06:02 AM
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Lisdoonvarna Festival is worth a look. The tradition is also that people go there to take mineral waters at the sulpher spa (very smelly!) but they dance there as well. Lisdoonvarna is very close to Doolin, but I would stay in Doolin and visit Lisdoonvarna.
From Doolin, on way to Galway, drive around the coast and if you have time take in walk on Burren near Fanore or Ballyvaughan. Monks Pub near pier in Ballyvaughan is good place to stop for lunch.
For trip to inishmore you can fly from Galway (this will save time). Check out flight information on www.aerarann.ie (I think that's it).
If you want to go to Donegal you need to give yourself time for it, as it is a relatively big county. I would go direct from Westport to Donegal.
On the otherhand, if you have time the area suggested north west Mayo is worth visiting- Belmullet, Bangor Erris, Ballina, Ceide Fields and on into Sligo.
Check out your mileage on www.aaroadwatch.ie there is a route planner on this website.
From Doolin, on way to Galway, drive around the coast and if you have time take in walk on Burren near Fanore or Ballyvaughan. Monks Pub near pier in Ballyvaughan is good place to stop for lunch.
For trip to inishmore you can fly from Galway (this will save time). Check out flight information on www.aerarann.ie (I think that's it).
If you want to go to Donegal you need to give yourself time for it, as it is a relatively big county. I would go direct from Westport to Donegal.
On the otherhand, if you have time the area suggested north west Mayo is worth visiting- Belmullet, Bangor Erris, Ballina, Ceide Fields and on into Sligo.
Check out your mileage on www.aaroadwatch.ie there is a route planner on this website.
Aug 20th, 2006, 08:33 AM
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I'm thinking that in order to save time, we might skip Inishmore and spend more time in Donegal. Are there any particular towns or sights in county Donegal that anyone considers to be "must sees"?
Aug 20th, 2006, 10:42 AM
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Donegal is among my favorite places on earth, but I was going to suggest saving it for your next trip if you had only two nights. With three, however...
You could drive the southern Donegal coast and see the incredibly beautiful Rossnowlagh beach...the neat fishing town of Killybegs...and the gorgeous coastal scenery around Kilcar.
If you're hikers, DO get to the Slieve League cliffs and DO get to the pub in the tiny village of Teelin on your way back down. There's also great hiking around Glencolumbkille. I'd be in heaven with three days in this area alone, but if you want to keep going...there's Glenveagh Natl. Park further north.
Another wonderfully scenic place to hike is through the Glengesh Pass outside of Ardara. (If you don't have time, drive it instead, but don't miss it.)
Donegal is really a world apart, different than the rest of Ireland. It feels remote and rugged and very much off the beaten path.
You could drive the southern Donegal coast and see the incredibly beautiful Rossnowlagh beach...the neat fishing town of Killybegs...and the gorgeous coastal scenery around Kilcar.
If you're hikers, DO get to the Slieve League cliffs and DO get to the pub in the tiny village of Teelin on your way back down. There's also great hiking around Glencolumbkille. I'd be in heaven with three days in this area alone, but if you want to keep going...there's Glenveagh Natl. Park further north.
Another wonderfully scenic place to hike is through the Glengesh Pass outside of Ardara. (If you don't have time, drive it instead, but don't miss it.)
Donegal is really a world apart, different than the rest of Ireland. It feels remote and rugged and very much off the beaten path.
Aug 20th, 2006, 10:47 AM
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Just returned from a week in Clare (after five days of touring around Midlands, Kilkenny, and Dingle). I would recommend Listoonvarna - very fun little town. Doolin is great too. We did the trip to the Aran Islands and I loved it - went to the smallest one - Inishfree? - but I'm not sure that I'd stay overnight. The few hours over there was great for me.
In Westport we stayed in The Boulevard Guesthouse which was our favorite of the entire trip. Check it out. Sadly we didn't get out to Achill Island (took my daughters to Knock instead) but that is an area I'd love to return to for more than just the day and a half we had.
We also loved the Burren. We had five kids with us - ages 8-18 - and this was a highlight for them. Check out the caves if you go there. Very cool. Have a great time.
In Westport we stayed in The Boulevard Guesthouse which was our favorite of the entire trip. Check it out. Sadly we didn't get out to Achill Island (took my daughters to Knock instead) but that is an area I'd love to return to for more than just the day and a half we had.
We also loved the Burren. We had five kids with us - ages 8-18 - and this was a highlight for them. Check out the caves if you go there. Very cool. Have a great time.
Aug 21st, 2006, 07:09 AM
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Hi Claire:
I presume that you mean 10 days and 10 nights in Ireland and aren't counting your last night. You are wanting to cover a pretty broad area of Ireland in 10 days but it can be done. It also requires a great deal of "back tracking. Looking at what you've laid out, the thought of having my last full day in Ireland be a drive from Donegal to Ennis wouldn't thrill me. I can certainly be done, but I'd rather not spend my last day doing that. I scratched my head a few times and this is what I thought of. Perhaps not perfect, but I think I would rather do it this way:
Doolin, Westport, Westport, Westport, Donegal, Donegal, Donegal, Galway Galway, Ennis.
The Doolin to Westport day would be very full but the drive would be wonderful and you would have two more days in Westport to recover. On the drive to Westport, you could see quite a bit of Connemara and perhaps leave an option day for Inishmore at the end.
Mary's suggestions for Donegal are excellent. Virtually any piece of coast is spectacyular in Donegal but the Slieve League is something not to be missed. You'll need a pretty clear day and hope for not much wind. The road to the top (look for the sign to Bunglass Cliffs and go through the closed gate) is one of the most terrifying in Ireland but well worth the claw marks in the car's upholstery. The pub she mentions is the Cul-a-duin and has music on the weekends usually. It is as atmospheric as a pub can be.
Across the valley from Glencolmcille is a church and just up the road and standing stone. It's amazing to see it there, basically unmarked in a farmers field. I got to enjoy it in a downpour which seems miserable, but there was something special about it. Certainly worth a stop.
If you had time, and you may not, the road up the coast and then over to Glenveigh National Park is well worth it. Fanad Head is a favorite of mine, but too far in your journey (at least by my slow moving standards).
Donegal back to Galway isn't that much easier than to Ennis, but it wouldn't be your last day. The Galway to Ennis would be very short and would rpovide you some options as far as having some fun on the final day. You could avoid most of the backtracking pretty easily on this.
Hope this helps. It ain't perfect by any means.
Bill
I presume that you mean 10 days and 10 nights in Ireland and aren't counting your last night. You are wanting to cover a pretty broad area of Ireland in 10 days but it can be done. It also requires a great deal of "back tracking. Looking at what you've laid out, the thought of having my last full day in Ireland be a drive from Donegal to Ennis wouldn't thrill me. I can certainly be done, but I'd rather not spend my last day doing that. I scratched my head a few times and this is what I thought of. Perhaps not perfect, but I think I would rather do it this way:
Doolin, Westport, Westport, Westport, Donegal, Donegal, Donegal, Galway Galway, Ennis.
The Doolin to Westport day would be very full but the drive would be wonderful and you would have two more days in Westport to recover. On the drive to Westport, you could see quite a bit of Connemara and perhaps leave an option day for Inishmore at the end.
Mary's suggestions for Donegal are excellent. Virtually any piece of coast is spectacyular in Donegal but the Slieve League is something not to be missed. You'll need a pretty clear day and hope for not much wind. The road to the top (look for the sign to Bunglass Cliffs and go through the closed gate) is one of the most terrifying in Ireland but well worth the claw marks in the car's upholstery. The pub she mentions is the Cul-a-duin and has music on the weekends usually. It is as atmospheric as a pub can be.
Across the valley from Glencolmcille is a church and just up the road and standing stone. It's amazing to see it there, basically unmarked in a farmers field. I got to enjoy it in a downpour which seems miserable, but there was something special about it. Certainly worth a stop.
If you had time, and you may not, the road up the coast and then over to Glenveigh National Park is well worth it. Fanad Head is a favorite of mine, but too far in your journey (at least by my slow moving standards).
Donegal back to Galway isn't that much easier than to Ennis, but it wouldn't be your last day. The Galway to Ennis would be very short and would rpovide you some options as far as having some fun on the final day. You could avoid most of the backtracking pretty easily on this.
Hope this helps. It ain't perfect by any means.
Bill
Aug 21st, 2006, 07:54 PM
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Thank you all so very much for your suggestions. You've given me much food for thought and, as a result, I have changed my mind about how much we should cover.
I much prefer seeing a few areas in detail and being immersed in the local charm and character of a town or region, rather than skimming the surface and being in a rush to fit everything in. Also, due to some work committments, we will only be able to spend 9 nights in Ireland instead of 10, so concentrating on just counties Clare, Galway and Mayo is what I think we will do.
MaryZ--thank you for your suggestions regarding Donegal. We will save Donegal for our next trip and I have already made notes on what you suggested.
Fitznj--thank you for your observations of Inisheer. I am sure we will love it, but we won't spend the night, rather make it a daytrip, as you suggested. Thank you too for the recommendation for the Boulevard Guesthouse. I have been in touch with them and they have rooms available for the nights we are planning to be there. Hooray!
Wojazz/Bill--I am so appreciative of the time and effort you put into creating an itinerary for us. If I had stuck to my original plan of fitting in Donegal, I would have based my trip on what you suggested. Great advice!
Anyway, after much thought, research, reading and taking your suggestions to heart, this is our proposed itinerary:
Day 1 (Fri) Shannon to Doolin -- relax/Cliffs of Moher
Day 2 (Sat) Doolin -- tour the Burrren
Day 3 (Sun) Galway
Day 4 (Mon) Galway -- day trip to Inisheer
Day 5 (Tues) Clifden -- Kylemore Abbey, Connemara National Park
Day 6 (Wed) Westport
Day 7 (Thurs) Westport -- Possibly hike up Croagh Patrick, depending on weather.
Day 8 (Fri) Westport -- Achill Island
Day 9 (Sat) Ennis
Day 10 (Sun) Leave from Shannon airport
Do you think that this covers the bases for this area? Am I spending too much or too little time in any places?
I much prefer seeing a few areas in detail and being immersed in the local charm and character of a town or region, rather than skimming the surface and being in a rush to fit everything in. Also, due to some work committments, we will only be able to spend 9 nights in Ireland instead of 10, so concentrating on just counties Clare, Galway and Mayo is what I think we will do.
MaryZ--thank you for your suggestions regarding Donegal. We will save Donegal for our next trip and I have already made notes on what you suggested.
Fitznj--thank you for your observations of Inisheer. I am sure we will love it, but we won't spend the night, rather make it a daytrip, as you suggested. Thank you too for the recommendation for the Boulevard Guesthouse. I have been in touch with them and they have rooms available for the nights we are planning to be there. Hooray!
Wojazz/Bill--I am so appreciative of the time and effort you put into creating an itinerary for us. If I had stuck to my original plan of fitting in Donegal, I would have based my trip on what you suggested. Great advice!
Anyway, after much thought, research, reading and taking your suggestions to heart, this is our proposed itinerary:
Day 1 (Fri) Shannon to Doolin -- relax/Cliffs of Moher
Day 2 (Sat) Doolin -- tour the Burrren
Day 3 (Sun) Galway
Day 4 (Mon) Galway -- day trip to Inisheer
Day 5 (Tues) Clifden -- Kylemore Abbey, Connemara National Park
Day 6 (Wed) Westport
Day 7 (Thurs) Westport -- Possibly hike up Croagh Patrick, depending on weather.
Day 8 (Fri) Westport -- Achill Island
Day 9 (Sat) Ennis
Day 10 (Sun) Leave from Shannon airport
Do you think that this covers the bases for this area? Am I spending too much or too little time in any places?
Aug 22nd, 2006, 08:42 AM
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Hi claire:
I think that's a much more reasonable itinerary. For someone who knows they will be back, slowing down is the best way. It's always tough to tell what people want to try.
I may try to change your mind a bit on one thing. I'll admit, I've nevr been to Inisheer though someday I will. I've been to Inishmore, which is the largest of the three islands. Inisheer would be very quiet at night (i'd still consider staying there) but Inishmore would have some activity. I think Inishmore is a good into to the Aran islands and then on a future trip, try the other two. But, stay there. After the boats leave to take the day trippers back, it's heavenly. The morning is beautiful also. We flew in on Aer Arran, got in at about three and took a tour. Most of the day trippers were gone or leaving by then. I think this is a very nice option and you will get a different feel of the island in the evening. Of course, if the weather is bad, the Arans aren't quite as much fun.
Clifden to Westport is a short but beautiful drive. Take a side trip to Renvyle, the take the road to Louisburgh over Doo Lough Pass, a famous photo stop. The weather needs to be pretty good to climb Croagh Patrick. We stayed at Tighbeg B&B which is near the town of Murrisk at the foot of Croagh Patrick. Peter and Ingeborg are accomplished hikers and know all of the trails well. You might find this a nice place to stay. It was about a 5-10 minute drive into Westport. The B&B sits on Clew Bay and the view is amazing. Peter is very Scottish but is an expert on the area.
Westport is an excellent place to hear music. Don't just go to Matt Molloy's. It tends to be packed. Right next door is the Porterhouse. I heard a couple of guys there (Oclan and Kevin) and they were tearing in up. There are a few other music pubs also.
The obvious choice for a drive is the Atlantic drive on Achill Island. Take the narrow road up to the top of Minaun Heights. The view from the top is postcard like. I would head all the way to the end of the island and then circle around and come back. You'll have plenty of time to get back to Westport to enjoy the pubs.
Bill
I think that's a much more reasonable itinerary. For someone who knows they will be back, slowing down is the best way. It's always tough to tell what people want to try.
I may try to change your mind a bit on one thing. I'll admit, I've nevr been to Inisheer though someday I will. I've been to Inishmore, which is the largest of the three islands. Inisheer would be very quiet at night (i'd still consider staying there) but Inishmore would have some activity. I think Inishmore is a good into to the Aran islands and then on a future trip, try the other two. But, stay there. After the boats leave to take the day trippers back, it's heavenly. The morning is beautiful also. We flew in on Aer Arran, got in at about three and took a tour. Most of the day trippers were gone or leaving by then. I think this is a very nice option and you will get a different feel of the island in the evening. Of course, if the weather is bad, the Arans aren't quite as much fun.
Clifden to Westport is a short but beautiful drive. Take a side trip to Renvyle, the take the road to Louisburgh over Doo Lough Pass, a famous photo stop. The weather needs to be pretty good to climb Croagh Patrick. We stayed at Tighbeg B&B which is near the town of Murrisk at the foot of Croagh Patrick. Peter and Ingeborg are accomplished hikers and know all of the trails well. You might find this a nice place to stay. It was about a 5-10 minute drive into Westport. The B&B sits on Clew Bay and the view is amazing. Peter is very Scottish but is an expert on the area.
Westport is an excellent place to hear music. Don't just go to Matt Molloy's. It tends to be packed. Right next door is the Porterhouse. I heard a couple of guys there (Oclan and Kevin) and they were tearing in up. There are a few other music pubs also.
The obvious choice for a drive is the Atlantic drive on Achill Island. Take the narrow road up to the top of Minaun Heights. The view from the top is postcard like. I would head all the way to the end of the island and then circle around and come back. You'll have plenty of time to get back to Westport to enjoy the pubs.
Bill
Aug 22nd, 2006, 08:47 AM
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Instead of Galway, consider Oughterard which is a new find for me. Take the boat tour of Lough Corrib. On a beautiful day, it's unforgettable. By the way, here is a link to by web journal that includes Westport.
http://www.geocities.com/obeirne_ire...westport_1.htm
Bill
http://www.geocities.com/obeirne_ire...westport_1.htm
Bill
Aug 22nd, 2006, 08:58 AM
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Just another voice chiming in to skip Galway. We spent two days there in 2000 and wished we'd skipped it, even though we were 24 at the time and visited a few lively university pubs. I'm sure it would be a fun place to live, but for a tourist/traveler, it just didn't seem to offer anything special. We basically ended up using it as a base for daytripping to the Aran Islands.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 09:07 AM
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I wouldn't leave out exploring the Loop Head Peninsula, Lahinch, Kilkee, scenic drive out to the lighthouse, stopping by the Bridges of Ross. This can all be done on day #2. The morning of Day #3 tour the Burren on the way up to Galway. You can't check into your B&B until the late afternoon anyway. 
Aug 22nd, 2006, 09:50 AM
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If you like smoked fish and other homemade goodies, check out the Smokehouse in Lisdoonvarna (I can still taste the cheese with seaweed, yum)
If you like historical fiction, read Grania by Morgan Llewellyn before you go -- it's set in that area, and Achill Island is one of her home areas. She was a real person, a female pirate during Queen Elizabeth I reign.
If you like historical fiction, read Grania by Morgan Llewellyn before you go -- it's set in that area, and Achill Island is one of her home areas. She was a real person, a female pirate during Queen Elizabeth I reign.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 06:05 PM
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My father was from Mt. Charles in Donegal. It's breathtaking. Donegal Town is a great place to wander. Best pubs and music. Do you like Beleek? We got some beautiful things there and the town is nice as well.
Aug 22nd, 2006, 07:58 PM
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Thank you again for all your insightful suggestions. You have all been extremely helpful and given me much food for thought.
With so many votes to skip Galway, we are thinking of doing just that. We can always poke our noses around the town, or visit a pub if we want to, but I think we would prefer a place that's not a big, busy city.
WoJazz, I like your suggestion of staying in Oughterard instead of Galway. The idea of being in the heart of Connemara, on the edge of a loch is very appealing. Do you know of any good B&Bs or guesthouses in the area?
Also, after much thought (and urging by Fodorites), we are thinking of staying overnight on Inishmore. The Man of Aran Cottage Bed and Breakfast looks delightful (http://www.manofarancottage.com/index.html). I have emailed to find out about availability.
With regards to staying in the Burren, do any of you have a strong preference either way for Doolin or Ballyvaughan? We stayed in Doolin on our last visit and loved the quaint pubs, but I'm wondering if we want to stay somewhere different this time around. Is Ballyvaughan a good alternative to Doolin?
So, based on your suggestions, this is what our revisted itinerary now looks like:
Day 1: Shannon to Dingle or Ballyvaughn
Day 2: Dingle or Ballyvaughan
Day 3: Oughterard
Day 4: Oughterard
Day 5: Aran Islands
Day 6: Clifden
Day 7: Newport
Day 8: Newport
Day 9: Ennis
Day 10: Back home!
With so many votes to skip Galway, we are thinking of doing just that. We can always poke our noses around the town, or visit a pub if we want to, but I think we would prefer a place that's not a big, busy city.
WoJazz, I like your suggestion of staying in Oughterard instead of Galway. The idea of being in the heart of Connemara, on the edge of a loch is very appealing. Do you know of any good B&Bs or guesthouses in the area?
Also, after much thought (and urging by Fodorites), we are thinking of staying overnight on Inishmore. The Man of Aran Cottage Bed and Breakfast looks delightful (http://www.manofarancottage.com/index.html). I have emailed to find out about availability.
With regards to staying in the Burren, do any of you have a strong preference either way for Doolin or Ballyvaughan? We stayed in Doolin on our last visit and loved the quaint pubs, but I'm wondering if we want to stay somewhere different this time around. Is Ballyvaughan a good alternative to Doolin?
So, based on your suggestions, this is what our revisted itinerary now looks like:
Day 1: Shannon to Dingle or Ballyvaughn
Day 2: Dingle or Ballyvaughan
Day 3: Oughterard
Day 4: Oughterard
Day 5: Aran Islands
Day 6: Clifden
Day 7: Newport
Day 8: Newport
Day 9: Ennis
Day 10: Back home!
Aug 23rd, 2006, 09:52 AM
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Another quick question: Should we spend two days in Oughterard and one day in Clifden, or the other way round? While we enjoy beautiful, scenic areas, we also like having the option of visting neighborhood pubs in the evenings with good music--trad or otherwise, and having access to some decent restaurants--not fine dining, just places that have atmosphere and good Irish cooking.
