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Streetwise Maps

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I've picked up Streetwise maps for Rome and Paris. I know they don't show the entire city, just the core -- but what they show they seem to be complete in listing all the little streets, etc.

My question: What do you use to circle or write on the maps? They are plasticized, and rather than try trial and error, I'd like to know what works.

Is there something for permanent marking and something that can be erased? (that won't smear when I use the maps)

Thanks in advance

Steve

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