Starting my Paris plan for May

Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 04:10 AM
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Starting my Paris plan for May

My husband and I have been in Paris about 4 times, but only for about 4 days before moving on. Last May when we were there, it was just perfect and we so wished we had just planned to stay in Paris rather than moving on. This year, we are planning 13 days only in Paris with maybe a couple of day trips elsewhere.

We would like to do a tour of the Louvre and maybe a couple of others. We really aren't much for tours, except a couple of years ago, I was overwhelmed with planning our first trip to Rome. I found Walks of Italy and it was perfect for us. The thing I really liked was the tours were small, 7-10 people and they used headphones so you could easily hear the guide and not have to be right there in front of them. This was especially great in the Sistine Chapel as we were free to kind of linger and look at things while still hearing the description or stories. I would love to find a tour like that. So far in my research, I haven't. Does anyone know of a tour like this?

On our other trips, we have stayed in the 6th, 1st and the Marais. This time, I was looking at a place close to Parc Monceau. I don't really know that area at all so I thought it might be interesting to explore other areas, but it seems kind of far from everything. I would hate to spend 12 nights feeling cut off from Paris. I would appreciate some feedback about the area and any thoughts.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 05:24 AM
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I got lured into renting an apartment near Parc Monceau once because I thought it was so lovely everytime I went past. I regretted it after one day and moved back to my regular neighborhood in Montmartre. I found it to be very residential, without many cafes and shops. In my Montmartre neighborhood there are 3 boulangeries within 2 blocks. In the place near Parc Monceau I had to walk 5 blocks to get to one. And on weekends most things were closed.

For 13 days I would pick a place where you want to feel like you are "at home". Even though the 18eme might feel a bit far out, it is truly lovely and everything very accessable by the bus (which stops out front) or the metro (a block away).

For day trips, I recommend Giverny in May. And of course, Versailles.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 05:28 AM
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I'm a fan of 18th.
And yes, Parc Monceau is nice area but boring. And excentered.
You might like t close to les Jardins du Luxembourg if parks appeal to you - much more in the center and cafés and restaurants abound. More towards the 1'th.
Very nice too the 14th.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 06:05 AM
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I have done 2-week or so trips to Paris with some day trips, and really enjoyed doing it that way. It great to settle down in one hotel and enjoy not lugging around a suitcase. I particularly like staying in the 6th, so mostly have stuck to that - or Montparnasse (less touristy but easy to get to things I like doing). There are so many wonderful places for day trips near Paris! I'm also going to Paris in May, but will spend some time in Belgium this trip, as I've never been. I had a difficult time deciding where to stay in Paris, but ultimately decided on the 7th for beginning days in Paris - then train to Belgium - then back to Paris for 6 days in St. Germain. I have 15 full days this trip.

As for your question re staying near Parc Monceau - well, it's a lovely, upscale area. Some fine museums nearby - Jacquesmart Andre, Nissim Camondo- the big department stores not too far, but I just don't know about staying in that area for the whole time. It would be fun to explore those Haussmannian buildings and boulevards a bit, but maybe more fun to stay in St. Germain, the Marais, Montparnasse, or the 7th for more restaurant options, night time activity, etc.

But I'm sure someone more familiar with less touristed areas of Paris could answer better than I. If you decide on that area, please let us know how you liked it.
Have a great trip, wherever you decide to stay!
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 10:18 AM
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I love the Parc Monceau and the museums nearby, but I would never stay there. Too staid and not full of life the way so much of Paris is.

Our new favorite arrondissement is the 11ème.
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Old Feb 22nd, 2017, 10:31 AM
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The short-term rental crackdown is on-going. The Mayor's task force is working its way through groups of arrondissements, which are unannounced beforehand.
You might risk having a last-minute cancellation, which are becoming more frequent, when the owners don't want to pay the 50,000 EU fine.
Just so you know what's going on...

I live near Parc Monceau, and there isn't anything there but the Parc, the Tramway, and a bunch of ugly modern residences with a few Haussmanniens buildings sprinkled about. Cafes and restaurants aren't what I'd call very interesting, and are expensive. You might have trouble finding a supermarket if you rent an apartment, since there aren't very many of them.

Transportation options can be confusing, and will take longer than you will be used to. You really cannot walk to major monuments or museums.

I'd recommend staying in a hotel or legal apart'hotel in the 11th or 12th. You'll have open-air markets, great transportation options, and you can walk to a lot of the things you want to see and do. Neighborhoods are safe and interesting.

You can Google "Louvre private tours" or check the Louvre's official website for when English guides are available.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 05:46 AM
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Thanks for the info regarding the area. I'm rethinking what to do. Parc Monceau doesn't seem like an area I would want to spend 13 nights.

I've been looking at tour with Context Travel. Anyone have any experience with them?
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 05:50 AM
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Shhh StCirq - we don't want the word to get out about the 11th!!
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 05:56 AM
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Looks nice. No experience with them.

You might want to "theme" your holiday. For instance, follow the trail of Hemingway, or Van Gogh, or Picasso. Hang out where they hung out, often very still possible, even if by approximation.

I second the 11th. Real "working" neighbourhoods and a very relaxed vibe. And very good options regarding markets, bakers, cafes and bars etc.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 06:12 AM
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"Our new favorite arrondissement is the 11ème."
We will be heading to Paris in May and will be staying there as well.

We have always stayed in the 4ème until last trip where we stayed a few nights in the 12ème next to Gard de Lyon for convenience. We spent a lot of time in the 11ème and decided that was where we'd stay next trip.

Looking forward to it; lots of good places to eat and explore. We don't feel the need to be in the heart of tourist activity anymore when in Paris. We have friends who are living in the 11ème for a year and have got lots of spots for us to check out.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 06:20 AM
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hotel Fabric waq my 'coup de coeur' 2016.
Rue Folie Mericourt - 11th.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 09:09 AM
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Topeater,

I have used Context Travel in many different European cities (Prague, Vienna, Rome, etc. but not Paris) and always found them to be exceptional every time.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 10:37 AM
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Do you really want a tour?

I'm not fond of tours, preferring to do my research and go my own way. For instance, I can't imagine doing a tour of the Louvre. Instead, choose two or three things you are very interested in and go to those areas of the Louvre. When we were last there, I chose the Egyptian collection (which did not impress me) and the Assyrian rooms which were stunning. Cheryl chose French paint of a particular ear plus classical sculpture. We met up when we were done and went out into the Tuileries.

We spent 10 days in Paris a couple of years ago. Here is the link to our photos: http://www.marlandc.com/Paris-2014 and you will find a link there to my trip report.

Enjoy your time in Paris. I'm envious. We have been trying to decide about a return trip, this time for two weeks.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 10:49 AM
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What kind of tour with Context? Curious, as I've never taken a tour like that, but for someone who's already been to Paris 4 times and has 13 whole days there, what is the appeal? What couldn't you do on your own, or your own supplemented with walking tours?

Jamikins, my lips are sealed from here on out.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 06:54 PM
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StCirq,

Context Travel is a walking tour. They have small (6 or fewer people) groups with a Master's or Doctorate level guide specializing in the type of tour (architecture, historian, etc.). Personally, I like to have the stories told as I am looking at things, it brings the experience together in much richer and vibrant detail than just reading about it. Also I find that a guide with that level of expertise and locality can add things that I don't find in my reading/research. But that's me.
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Old Feb 24th, 2017, 08:46 PM
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I just did a Context tour of "Haussmann's Paris" and thought it was amazing. There were four of us in the group, and the detail we learned was very interesting. I thought it would be more macro-oriented (design of streets, etc), but it focused on the details of buildings and courtyards and how architecture developed after Haussmann fell. There was also a smattering of politics and political scandal of the day.

I lived in Paris in another life (in the 1970s), have visited multiple times, have about 5 guidebooks on Paris, and I still thought the tour was well worthwhile.

I'll also add that I've enjoyed the tours/presentations of Paris by Mouth quite a lot. I've taken the cheese/wine workshops two times and learned lots about terroir and how aging a cheese in the north changes its texture and flavor vs. aging the cheese in the south, etc. They also do walking tours of markets that many enjoy.

Have fun as you plan!

s
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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 12:42 AM
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I have taken 3 tours with Context, and if you are looking for in-depth information on art, architecture, history or food, they are excellent. Context offers many more tours than they used to, so you might see more topics that interest you.

Most people don't want to pay the price for in-depth information, but if they prefer to be led around by some witless tour guide who is only paid in tips - and doesn't always get to keep any of that money - that's their choice.
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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 11:26 AM
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Thanks to those of you who have used Context tours! I would never have considered a tour in Paris, but some of those sound interesting.
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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 11:53 AM
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I agree, Kathie. DIdn't know about them, but will definitely look into them.
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Old Feb 25th, 2017, 10:44 PM
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ParisByMouth tours are interesting and fun, centered on food, of course. I've taken 2 of them - the problem is that they sell out fast.
The guides are well-informed, are welcomed by the shopkeepers (not always the case with non-paid tour guides), purchase price for the tour includes copious samples, which you discuss and enjoy at the end of the tour.
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