A stairwell fire? What are the chances of that? That's priceless (and annoying, of course).

sorry about the fire...it's always something isn't it!

enjoy and I will look forward to hearing more.

Looking forward to more!

You're right- apartment is in an ideal location. Thanks for sharing!

Looking forward to more I too am flying Delta from Portland to Paris this summer. Can't wait, except for the flight. What a nice surprise!!!

Day 2 Report.

Still jet lagged, so we decided to try the Fat Bike Day Tour. Did I mention our 16 year old son is with us? No. Well, that was my wife's idea when all she knew was we were going "somewhere" and since it is Spring Break back home we should take him with us. Little did she know the extra passenger would add up a bit on the airfare. But he's a happy traveler instead of the sulky teenager of a few years ago, and actually useful since he's had two years of French and therefore the only one of us with a useful skill - helping translate "which wine do you suggest with the . . . ?"

Anyhow, knowing he was interested in only certain museums, we decided on the bike tour to get a good overview. We took the convenient No. 69 bus to meet up at the Eiffel Tower. A great bus ride, especially watching the driver navigate some impossibly narrow streets around parked cars, bicyclist, scooters and Parisians walking dogs - everywhere. When he made the almost 270 degree turn into and through the incredibly narrow passageway of the Louvre, I wanted to stand up and applaud, but worried they'd surely know I was an American (because, as my wife said, they'd never guess from my daypack and jeans). We arrived at the Champs de Mars, the park which covers a large area surrounding the tower. Despite all the hype and criticism of some about whether to visit, the view getting off the bus simply takes your breath away. Truly, it's an amazing site just from a sheer architectural standpoint. The walk along the parkway to the tower was memorable.

Anyhow, we met up at the south (sud) leg of the Eiffel Tower - the designated meeting point about an hour earlier than the 11 a.m. start so decided to climb the stairs. The lines were probably short enough that we could have taken the elevator to the top, but we were feeling the need for some exercise (I would later question whether we need that much work) and paid for the climb, instead. The stair climb was, as they say, invigorating and long. However, they posted interesting posters with information about the tower along the way that one can read if you haven't yet passed out. The nice thing about the stairs is that they were fairly devoid of other tourist, so there's time to rest along the way. We made short order of the first level, took some pictures then made our way up to the second (main) level. That climb seemed much harder, either because of lack of oxygen or steeper stairs, or both. Seriously, it's not that bad if you take it slow and easy. The second level was where we ran into lots of fellow tourist. Again, the view was spectacular, 360 degrees of Paris with helpful photo signs pointing out the sights. Amazingly, there's a restaurant, gift shop and decent bathrooms that high up. Of course, why wouldn't there be, except thinking of the logistics (how do they get the garbage down - "look out below!"). Not surprisingly the climb down went much quicker.

One note about security at the ET - it's fairly heavy, including armed military personnel and not one, but two bag checks which were more thorough than most TSA rub downs.

The bike tour itself was quite fun, and we are not "group tour" people, either. But our guide was a very knowledgeable history major from Wisconsin who had quite a panache for story-telling, and knew a lot about French history and culture. Being from Wisconsin, he also had a lot of stories about drinking in Paris (I'm told that's a Madison thing). Our group of about 20 saw lots of the major sights in our 4+ mile tour, with time for lunch at a decent outdoor bistro, too. We were thoroughly entertained and learned quite a bit about the sights in our 4 hour tour, and met our goal of getting a good orientation to Paris. If interested, their list of tours is at http://fattirebiketours.com/paris/tours. Our guide, Andrew, also gave a list of his favorite markets and restaurants, including a nice one we had dinner at in the 11th later that night.

Kerouc, et al. The fire was really a trash can fire some kids apparently set, and it was all smoke damage. The hallway lights being out is a minor annoyance compared to the rest of the trip..

mms - my mistake was letting Delta put us on too tight a connection between PDX-SLC. They then changed the connection a month ago to make it even tighter, and refused my request to take an earlier flight without paying a change fee. Such is airline travel these days.

Day 3 report - a lovely trip to Giverny and Monet's Garden - later. Going off today to drop our son off for a Eurostar trip to London to visit his bandmate/classmate staying there for brea, too. Au revoir for now.

Terry.

Looking forward to Day 3 - we are on the countdown for June.

Terry, you had me at the stairwell fire; that's one you don't come across often .

I'm arriving at terminal 2E also (American Airlines) and will want to find the ATM - I won't have a problem seeing it?

Enjoying your report. We took our children to Paris for spring break when they were teens but still talking to us and we all had a good time.

Ellen

Day 3. We decided to take our "Paris Break" day very early for logistical reasons since our son really wanted to see Monet's Garden with us (one of several surprises from him this trip so far). This was to be our first time using the Metro and after some initial confusion about the tickets it went very smooth. The Metro is every bit efficient and easy to use as others have posted. Combined with the Paris bus system and trains, it's one heck of a public transit system. In Vancouver, WA, where I'm from, we can't even get people to agree on bringing light rail over from Portland on a proposed new bridge over the Columbia - what an auto-centric country we are. Okay, enough politics.

After taking the Metro to the St. Lazare train station, a very nice station agent who spoke good English helped us with our trip planning for Giverny, including his opinion on which return train we should take. The trip to Giverny was a lovely train ride of about 50 minutes through the beautiful French countryside. Upon arrival in Vernon, the closest stop to Giverny, we decided to rent bicycles instead of taking the free shuttle bus. So we hopped across the street to a bar the guidebooks referred us to where, sure enough, the nice bartender offered to rent us bikes (but spoke no English - not a problem) for 12e each. He gave us all water bottles and a map to get out of town and off we went (the bikes were clearly second-hand, but all more or less worked ok). Once we crossed from Vernon over the Seine, there was actually a very nice paved bike path form 3/4 of the way to Giverny. Very flat and easy, the total ride was 4 miles one way but seemed too short because we enjoyed the scenery so much. About a mile out of Giverny the path ends and you end up on Rue de Claude Monet (shocking!) for the rest of the ride. Giverny itself seemed a little sleepy but we were there fairly early to try and beat the tours. Monet's Garden was as advertised - absolutely gorgeous with almost everything in bloom. The famous pond has a nice path all around it, and gardeners were quietly tending to many parts. The tour of the house was fun, too, including the "smoking room" where Monet hung out with his painter buddies admiring his work. I wish I could post the pictures because between the garden and his house, it was color saturation overload.

We also went to the nearby museum which was recently completed. It's very modern and I think supposed to house showings of different impressionists - it's not at all really about Monet. It was okay, but we could have skipped it in retrospect and not missed much. The real find was lunch on our way out of town at the Hotel Baudy. It became somewhat famous for housing all the crazy American impressionists who came to see Monet. Okay, they weren't crazy, but I just thought it seems a bit cloying, but then again, I'm not a painter, and maybe that's what they do. The hotel has a beautiful dining room overlooking their property, and lunch was fabulous and fairly reasonably priced. The hotel had it's own garden out back, which, while not as colorful as Monet's, was nonetheless quite nice and had a intact painter's workshop out back that retained its historical character.

After the all too short ride back we hopped the train back, but got on the wrong one somehow, whereupon a very nice conductor explained in broken English we needed to get off a few stops up and then wait for the correct train. It was hard to understand which station he was saying, so we almost got off on the wrong stop, whereupon another passenger who had heard the conversation redirected us! Once again, the French people displayed continue to display charm, character and friendliness which is about 180 degrees from the stereotype they are portrayed as in American media. Why am I not surprised?

Ellen75005 - the ATM machines are on the way out of the airport towards the various transportation areas (bus, taxi, etc.). There are several of them and hard to miss.

Another beautiful day in Paris and the weather continues to improve. Au revoir for now.

Thank you for posting about your day a Monet's Garden. What time did you take the train in the morning and how long did you spend there?

Maudie, we left on the 8:20 train so with the bike ride and all, we arrived in Giverny right around the time it opened or a little after. Depending on your level of gardening excitement (mine is okay, my wife's much higher), I think 1.5 hours covers the garden and house pretty well, 2 hours if you really want a leisurely stroll. There's a decent gift shop as well. If you include a leisurely lunch and perhaps the museum back up the road just a short walk, we had plenty of time to get back for the 2:45 return train.

Hi! I will be there in less than a month! Help me, where should I eat? What's the weather like?

Bananaslug - great report [and screen name BTW!].

nice to read about friendly natives and biddable 16 year old boys. who knew?

I am also pleased to read a positive report about Givenchy - so often i think people expect so mush, they can't help but be disappointed. I've yet to make it there, so I'll be bookmarking your trip and that hotel where you had lunch!

looking forward to more!

Wonderful report. Esp appreciate the info on Giverny as we're thinking about doing that during our June trip.

I'm curious which restaurant in the 11th you ate at on the recommendation of the bike tour guide.

Thanks for the information, we are going to see what the all important weather is like on the day before we make a decision to go.

It was suggested to me to go around lunch time as you miss the tour buses, maybe that's a plan - lunch first then onto the garden in the afternoon. Hotel Baudy sounds like the icing on the cake for a wonderful day out, glad you let us all know about it.

Thanks again.

Day 4. Today was a more casual day since we had to drop our son at the Eurostar to London by 1 p.m. We decided to visit the Sacre Coeur for the view and to kill a bit of time. Another metro trip with a transfer that lets you off at nearby station (about a 10 minute walk) then the choice of going up the steps to the church or taking the funicular. We decided on the funicular since it uses the Metro ticket anyway and it reminded me of one I used to take to a particularly good restaurant I used to go to in Santa Cruz (whose name escapes me 30 years later - damn you middle age brain). We got there by 11 so the crowd wasn't too bad, but lots of tourist outside. Another amazing view of most of the city, especially with the weather so good. For first time, though, we could see a thin layer of smog hovering. Not bad, not LA bad (where I grew up, so I know something of bad smog), but it was there. The church is fairly nice but not as impressive as, say, the Notre Dame or St. Chappelle (report later). I did enjoy the "street" (steps?) violinist who played beautiful music right down on the steps. The machine gun toting army guys didn't seem to hassle them. Curiously, however, one doesn't see many buskers in Paris. I expected to see them all over, sort of street art, right? But you never see any - at all. The exception would be the occasional trumpeter outside a cafe or something. You do see lots of street beggars, however. And the gypsy scam artists. Be warned, they are out there and they run a couple of rackets. Avoid: 1) anyone with a clipboard who says they want you to sign something; 2) anyone trying to put a "found" ring on your finger; and 3) anyone wanting to tie a string on your finger.

From there it was a short right to Gare du Nord to drop our son. A very impressive entrance to the station which I think was renovated during the Mitterand years. A bit confusing though as we tried to figure out where the Eurostar ticket entrance was since the train station is for all manner of trains throughout France and Europe. By chance, we finally saw a sign pointing us upstairs and sure, unlike all the other trains there, the Eurostar entrance is through a secure location upstairs. So off we went and watched as our son left us and went through the immigration check. What a weird feeling leaving your child (okay, 16, but still) and watching him go off hopefully on a fun adventure but just a little uncertain about the outcome. Once he entered the passport check area, it was walled off and we couldn't see him anymore. But we stayed for about 10 minutes after the train departed and we assumed he'd be wondering aimlessly if something went wrong or some angry train official would find us (ha - monsieur, is this person, uh hum, your son? Oui?). But all was well as we received confirmation from his friend's mom, where he is staying, later that evening.

I should mention we had lunch before the train trip at a cafe near the station and tried, for the first time, the infamous croque monsieur, which is where the cheese is baked on the outside of the bread. Not bad, but we're looking for a better version at a not so touristy cafe. My wife and I then headed towards the old Opera House (Garnier) to check out the Galleries Lafayette, their version of a NY Macy's. I'm not much for malls, but this was pretty impressive. We passed the Opera house on the way there with it's beautiful facade and hundreds of people (not tourists I'm pretty sure) just hanging out on the steps eating lunch or smoking. I guess it was their late meal break? The store itself is beautiful, with a huge stained glass dome right in the middle with various departments around the dome on each of the first 6 floors. Really, it's hard to believe it's just a store. We went up to the roof, where you can hang out and catch another incredible view of most of Paris. And watch the kids eating McDonald's. That was weird. Then down into the store to look around, including almost an entire floor devoted to lingerie. Impressive to say the least. The French seem obsessed, or maybe it's "impressed," with undies. You see lots of it for sale, even from street vendors. I was tempted to go to one of the "showings" in the store, but my wife thought the better of it and alas, off we went to head back to our flat for dinner.

Time's short this morning - more later.

Excellent... I'm also in Paris right now.

I think that suddenly... The weather just got PERFECT!!!!!!!!!!!!

Cheers

Nice T.R.

The Santa Cruz restaurant you mention is the Shadowbrook.

Great trip report...thanks for taking us along for the ride!

sap - Shadowbrook! Yes, I just remember I couldn't afford to go but my parents took me there following UCSC graduation. Wonder if it's still around . . .

How great that your teenaged boy wanted to see Giverney! It is on my Bucket List. Enjoying your trip report.

By the way, what a fabulous birthday gift (can you give my DH a call...)

Detour from TR: Some general observations about bistros, eating, etc. For a first-timer to Paris, the restaurant and bistro scene can be daunting. There several on almost every corner/block in downtown Paris, especially in Le Marais. How do you distinguish between the tourist trap and authentic places? I read some recommendations in the guidebooks but thought, well, if they're the guidebook they're not likely to be all that great. So I decided to use the Google Machine and search in our neighborhood, find one with good ratings, check it against reviews in TripAdvisor and if possible go to the bistro web site. So I tried that method the other night and had fairly poor results. Went to a place right in Le Marais called Page 35. Great reviews on both Google and TA - I mean almost 4.5 to 5 stars across the board, etc. Written reviews were glowing. But our one nice dinner out without my son turned out less than glowing. The location was very mediocre on a pretty noisy street and the tables were right up against the street, and even though we were inside, the noise level was pretty high. More importantly, though, the food was entirely mediocre. I had a steak with a fairly boring sauce that was surprisingly fatty and stringy. It was served with pommes frites (french fries) which is fairly common here, but were soft, not crunchy. Even the dessert was blase.

Yesterday, conversely, we went for a late lunch to a bistro recommended by Rick Steves near the Pompidou museum which was wonderful - everything he claimed it would be (he was also right about which falafel stand to visit). My wife questioned before dinner whether the online reviews could be trusted - how do you know the restaurants themselves aren't upping the rating with false reviews. I told her that she was speculating wildly, but now I'm not so sure . . .

One other point. We rented a flat with a full kitchen thinking it would be fun to cook some meals. Yeah, not really. First, being out all day starting in the early morning and then not back until later evening, there simply isn't time. Second, by the time we get back, we're pretty much exhausted and I can't imagine then getting the energy to cook a full meal. Yes, this makes things a bit more expensive, but you can save a full euros by eating at the takeaway (to go) food stands, and in our area, there's a falafel stand every 10 feet. Or get a savory crepe from a stand.

For breakfast, we've consistently visiting the local bakeries. You absolutely cannot go wrong and the choices seem endless. Plus, great cafe (espresso) every time.

So my lesson, at least, is that if you trust the guidebooks for good information on the sights to see, why not trust them on the food, too?

Bon apetite!

For restaurant recommendations I am much more likely to trust reviews I read here on this message board than the ones in a general guide book. The books specifically dedicated to restaurants are more useful, and there are several for Paris.

Very nice report, thanks.

I tend to consider restaurants that are mentioned frequently by this board as opposed to travel guides. Food is so subjective that its hard to judge unless there have been repeated descriptions/raves about a particular place. There are some posters who's recommendations have pretty much synched with our tastes and so when trip planning I will seek out their recommendations. I will also check out the NYTimes & Washington Post articles which sometimes have some good finds...and sometimes not so much.
Continuing to enjoy your report

bananslug - you're so right about restaurants being hot or miss. IMHO often it depends on which menu choices you make.

as for cooking in the apartment, I've done it, and not done it. on our trip to Venice, we did quite a lot of cooking - it was so easy to go out shopping in the morning for the evening, or to pick something up on the way home,plus eating out in Venice is very expensive, especially for 4 people including what were then 2 hungry teenagers. OTOH, in Rome last year [where i have found restaurants to be substantially cheaper than in Venice] we just used our kitchen to make tea and squeeze oranges, and ate out every meal including breakfast.

there's no right or wrong to it.

Day 5. We sleep in just a wee bit since our son is gone. Our first full day without him, so we decide to visit the Carnavalet Museum, which is the French history museum near Place de Vosges here in Le Marais. It's a free museum, housed in an old mansion, with a confusing array of rooms but a fascinating collection of paintings and artifacts. The order of the rooms is at times difficult to discern and the map is particularly helpful although it's in English. At times we were walking into one gallery only to be shooed out by an official because they were closing the room. Again, Rick Steves nailed it - they close various rooms during from about 11:30-1:30 so the museum employees can cover each other's lunch breaks. Have to say, I've never seen that in a museum. The paintings from Le Revolution were spectacular, but the signage is all in French (duh!) so without our translator (our son) it was a bit hard to follow at times. On the bottom floor was a collection of storefront signs from different periods, some hanging freely from the ceiling and others on the wall. It was actually quite interesting. I'd allow about 2 hours for this tour. After, we sat in the outdoor museum square and were interviewed by some French university students conducting a survey for their class on our opinion on different aspects of the museum. Although they had been in the museum several times, they told they, too, got confused and somewhat lost in there. Made me feel like not quite the idiot.

For lunch, we found a traditional bistro right across the street from the park at Place de Vosges called Ma Bourgogne, and were seated at a table with a nice view to the square. And finally, we had our first "stuffy" French waiter, complete with the white shirt, black vest and bow tie. I'd been waiting all trip for this experience and it was worth the wait. He held his nose in the air and wouldn't even look at us as we ordered. His disdain for American tourists as palpable, dripping off his tailored shirt. Seriously, he was all that, but he was also very efficient and the food was wonderful - really great Bistro food which I would highly recommend. Another great dessert, too. And in the end, he actually spoke with us just a tiny bit, and I saw him smile when he greeted an obvious frequent diner.

Spent the afternoon wondering le 'hood, and then when to St. Chappelle, a glorious church with the most incredible stain glass windows you could ever see. And there's a lot of stained glass in Paris. Still, this church (also free) was nothing short of spectacular.

Came home to rest and then heard a loud truck outside the window droning for quite a while. I went to the window to find the most interesting (repellent?) scene to date. The truck was loaded with sides of beef and had an interior, sliding crane/frame. So it would slide forward to the end of the truck, where two guys in one-piece white plastic suite, complete with a hood, would sling them over their backs to haul them into the kosher butcher shops. My wife, who is mostly vegetarian (baconarian? she can't give up bacon) was even enthralled by the whole process. Pretty cool since we in the State never actually see our steaks until they hit the table. I took several pictures just because it was so cool.

Dinner at the aforementioned, greatly disappointing Page 35. 'Nuf said.

Really enjoying your report. Thanks for taking the time!

Another enjoying your report thanks. Apropos the hit and miss eating out recommendation conundrum, last month I dined at Maitre Albert and while the atmosphere was great (and the staff very accommodating to a lone diner) and each course very tasty, the soup was without doubt the shallowest I've had (peasant that I am) and the steak was frankly not as good as the one I had at the nearby branch of the Hippopotamus chain.

Isn't St. Chapelle amazing? It's one of my favorite places in Paris. Surprised to see that you didn't have to pay. I recall that the times I've been there I actually had to pay a rather hefty sum to get in. I wonder if there's a free area and one you have to pay for or if they've foregone the fee completely in the past few years?

After reading your report, I want to go to the Carnavalet Museum - I went to the Picasso Museum which is right there on my last visit, but missed the Carnavalet.

What a sight the beef truck must have been! You're right; we sure don't see that in the States!

Looking forward to the next installment!

Glad to hear Chapelle is free-it wasn't when DH and I were there. Enjoying your report!

As far as I know Sainte-Chapelle is not free. Bananaslug (fun report by the way!) may have meant free with the Paris Museum Pass or happened to luck into a free day. Normally, you must pay.

I came across a list the other day of relics Louis IX bought... the crown of thorns being the most famous and the supposed reason for the construction of Ste Chapelle:

1. - The crown of thorns
2. - A piece of the cross
3. - Blood of Christ
4. - The nappies of the infant Jesus
5. - Another piece of the cross
6. - Blood from a picture of Christ
7. - The chain
8. - Sacred cloth inserted in a picture
9. - Stone from the tomb
10. - Milk of the Virgin Mary
11. - The spear
12. - A victorious cross
13. - The purple mantle
14. - The reed
15. - The sponge
16. - A part of the shroud (sudarii) in which Christ's body was wrapped in the sepulchre
17. - The towel used to dry the Apostles' feet
18. - Moses’ rod
19. - A part of John the Baptist’s head
20. - St. Blas’ head
21. - St. Clement’s head
22. - St. Simeon’s head.

Brings new meaning to 'there's a sucker born every minute'. I wonder who collected the Virgin
milk?

To all - my mistake. My wife reminds me (after being there only 3 days ago) St. Chappelle is NOT free. I was thinking of Carnavelet. Sorry.

Nikki, the restaurant in the 11th was Fee Verte on Rue de Roquefort.

Rue de la Roquette, perhaps? Looks interesting, thanks.

BananaSlug - you're making me long to go back! How did the "surprise" part go with your wife?

Bananaslug,

Enjoying your trip report. Funny line about your wife being a .

Oops, Funny line about your wife being a baconarian.

I have seriously GOT to get to Ste Chapelle this visit. I had every intention of getting there last December and still, it didn't happen. Maybe, I am intentionally not getting there so that I will always have an excuse to go back???!!!!!!!!!!

Love the waiter story...I remember my first "hater" waiter with great affection.

Warning: today was supposedly the last warm day.

Well, Louis IX was a little greedy, wasn't he? Hardly anything left for the next Crusade.

Times have changed. I live just a block from the future "Institute of Islamic Cultures" which looks like it will be a spendid place.

The apartment really looks perfect. Could you tell me if there is an elevator? I assume not, since it isn't mentioned on the site, but just wanted to clarify. Thanks!

Roquette . . . Roquefort. Can you tell French is not my first language? Or second, third, or fourth. Yes, Roquette. Thanks for the correction.

Ah, our last day, quite nice, warm as ever. Early departure tomorrow. Dinner after packing tonight at Chez Marianne for one last gaze down Rue de Rosiers.

Probably won't be able to finish this report for a few days after decompressing back in the 'Couve. That's Vancouver, Washington, not Canada, and USA, not France. Will miss you Paris. Au revoir.

after numerous trips to Paris, we finally made it to St. Chapelle this last time in January. perhaps my hopes had been raised too high by posters here, but it was OK, no more than that. we didn't have to queue though, which was good. we went on Monday morning, about 10am, you go through security and enter a courtyard where there is lots of building work going on. go [virtually] straight ahead past the workers' cabins on your left and the railings on your left, and the billeterie is at the end on the right. I mention this as it took us 10 minuted to find it.

BananaSlug--I have a tight connection too, so will see just how smooth the trip over ends up. Rude awakening, coming back to the 'couve

Let me know mms. If you leave late, I'd insist to the flight attendant which gate you're leaving for CDG out of, and where it is in relation to the arrival gate. If it's like our condition, it's pretty close.

Enjoy! We left Paris like we found it (I think).

Great report BananaSlug! Much for dh and I to use on our trip mid May. Excited to see St. Chappelle both in the daylight for the stained glass and an evening concert. Hope you will continue to contribute to your report!

Back in the US in recovery mode. A mini disaster of sorts struck on the day we left. As I dropped the keys in the locked mailbox, I realized our laptop was sitting on the chair where I'd set it, with no way to get to the flat owner to retrieve and the aiport all in the time alloted. I yelled out "fudge" loud enough to wake Le Marais up, except it wasn't fudge (borrowing from the movie A Christmas Story). So my laptop is having an extended vacation in Paris without us, and I hope having a good time. I'm working on having the flat owner ship it back, but if anyone has a good suggestion on shipping from France, let me know. Better yet, if you're traveling there from the Portland area soon, I'll buy you a fabulous dinner in the Pearl District or restaurant of your choice if you bring it back.

Trip report to continue and finish this weekened, I hope (on old, clunker PC laptop).

FedEx or whatever should do it for the appropriate fee.

Enjoyed your report a great deal. Your disaster is the kind of thing that all of us fear, so easy to do, especially when you are tired and in a hurry, though I personally left behind my important stuff on the way over!

I've had pretty good luck finding good, moderately priced places to eat through recommendations from friends and by developing a "nose" for places. In general, I try to avoid places that have been reviewed recently in the NY Times, but there are few undiscovered restaurants in Paris, so it is important to match your tastes to the food, which Kerouac so brilliantly reviewed in his menu board photos recently.

The French don't mind tough steaks the way we do, so you will not get tender cuts at most modest places. Anything braised or stewed is likely to be rich and delicious. I like offal except trip and sausages except andouille, so I almost always find something I like at a reasonable price.

oooh noooo. not the old laptop locked in the apartment disaster. my worst nightmare.

hope that it finds its way back to you soon.

I understand the French post office provides prepaid boxes of various sizes. If it fits in the box, it ships for one price no matter what it weighs. I'm sure your landlord will be familiar with the process.