Hi Ozarks Bill - enjoying this and looking forward to the rest!

We're heading back to Amsterdam this October (for the 6th time), and will finally be paying a visit to Zannse Schans. I'll keep my eye out for the bladder challenged dog... YIKES!

Thanks for posting, Bill. I'm looking forward to reading the rest of the report.

Robyn

In Brugge, I would suggest either the Hotel Fevery or the related Bariseele bed and breakfast. In Brussels, Downtown BXL bed and breakfast.

Continuing...and before leaving Amsterdam, how many have every heard of the Begijnhof? It's kind of a nunnery but in olden times was a place of refuge for various single women. Nice peaceful spot with gardens. Also to see in the city is that Church in the Attic. Seems the Calvinists would allow Catholics to worship so long as it wasn't obvious so there was this little chapel up on the third floor of a residence...
very interesting. Actually called Museum of Our Lord in the Attic.
We liked several of the churches...Oude Kerk dedicated to St. Nicholas built in 1306. Now that's old! Those Calvinist damaged the interior but stained glass windows remain. Across from the Central Station is the Gothic Nieuwe Kerk which is the Protestant Church of the Nethelands.
We enjoyed great food at several places...Melkmeije and Indrapura which is Indonesian with piles of rice and lots of little meats or whatever. (I already mentioned the Panorama Cafe).
Then of course there is the Floating Flower Market (Bloemenmarkt) and if you get up early you can take in an auction for buying tulips shipped for your fall garden. But you need to buy a hundred or more.
Of course a ride in the canal cruisers is a must because you can see the sights. I took lots of photos but not sure what building is what...one is the old hospital I know, also church spires. We ended up at a diamond shop where we saw how they fashion the gems (and sell them but not to us).
There's more to see like Royal Palace, the Dam or main square, Rembrandt house ...and yes this includes the Red Light district and the "coffee shops" down narrow streets (you may know that these are actually places where you smoke pot). But everyone just mills around shopping and gawking
...I took photos of Buddhist monks along with the many Japanest tourists. Sorry, at our age no night life to report on!
Next time...boarding our river cruise ship with delightful explorations of Enkhuizen, Hoorn, Veere, Delft, Kinderdijk and the Hague..and of course Keukenhof gardens!

Last time was about Amsterdam...and here are a few links:
http://rijksmuseum.nl http://www.amsterdam.info/sights

Now we move on. Boarding our river cruise ship...first time traveling this way. Certainly a plus in not unpacking constantly and the meals were simply scrumtuous. And a good way to travel in Holland and Belgium with all their waterways...so many canals, rivers, etc. Interesting to see the locks operate. Several times the waterway actually passed over a highway! Only drawbacks...too large a group and little relaxing in the evening in some local cafe. Anyway we did see some wonderful sites.

To begin with leaving Amsterdam let's dock at Enkhuizen, north of Amsterdam and protected by dikes from the North Sea, truly a charming town with lots of boating. We were privileged to visit in the home of a long time resident and enjoy her stroopwafels. The thing is to put these little waffles over your cup of coffee and the steam partly melts them. Our host has a home right on the canal and harbor...really nice. In St. Pancras Church there is a wonderful organ which we heard plus some unusual old wooden ceiling murals.

Next stop is another delightful Dutch town...Hoorn Once a major seaport now it is a pleasant town (one sailor named Cape Horn after his hometown). In the center is the Waag on Rodestein which is a weigh station. Seems in the old days it was important to control the measuring system in trading. Statues of three little boys pose at the harbor...Three Ship Boys of Bontekoe. I heard there is a story (maybe film?) about these lads stranded aboard some ship, but not in English. This is a nice town just for strolling on a sunny Saturday afternoon. Above the houses are porcelein markers such as birds or fish or boats to identify family households. Napolean came along after his occupying the land and insisted on house numbers and also dictated that each family must have a surname, i.e., no longer "son of Jensen." The Dutch didn't like that so sometimes they invented silly names such as "out e brock" which is translated "out of the pants." But that's the beginning of last names. Some entertainment at night by De Spierdijkers aboard ship...music and folk dance.

Next on to Keukenhof...what a sight! How many Fodorites have seen this spectacular floral display?

ozarksbill - can you tell me more about the river cruise? How big is the ship and how much time do you have at each docked city?

No, haven't been to Keukenhof yet... some day!

I like your writing style.
I want to hear more.

To answer a query about the river cruise before charging on...as I listen to a PBS Andre Rieu homecoming concert in Maastracht way down in the tip of the Netherlands. Oh boy, just now singing a favorite, "Memories" from Cats. Regarding a river cruise...we had 156 aboard and you are basically in a different port each day or bussed somewhere. This usually includes a walking tour (with lots of good info) and some free time. It is a good way to see towns in these countries of waterways. We only did a little daytime cruising (some wished for more scenic views such as on the Rhine) but distances aren't great allowing ample time in ports. A big plus of course is no unpacking every other day. Great emphasis on dining and you wouldn't believe the appetizers and desserts! Still we do like being in hotels for a more relaxed stay such as we did before and after the cruise in Amsterdam and Brugges...and have many times in Europe. I know many Fodorites like individual travel in out of the way places.

Now for Keukenhof Flower Park...the main reason for this trip in the Spring. What a feast for the eyes, and again on a sunny day. Your camera can't capture the brilliant color of the tulip displays and there are many grape hyacinths and lilies and daffodils and such as well. (I secretly ordered a DVD for my wife for our June anniversary...our 56th). See http://www.keukenhof/nl On our afternoon there were crowds of people from all over. Also beautiful are the many fields of tulips all around the area.

Next stop was Delft which of course is famous for its ceramics. Once in the 13th & 14th centuries it was prosperous in the cloth trade. One of the few scenery paintings by Vermeer is of ancient Delft where he lived. We had a tour of a shop where they mould and paint the glazed earthware...and by the way only a few still do the hand decorating. Delft itself is a nice town with canals This was market day with so much for sale in the square. We relaxed in a cafe, then back to the boat for a night cruise through locks to Veere. Here are someone's photos:
http://www.galen.frysinger.com/delft.htm

A mention of Veere, another of those quaint Dutch cities.
http://pbase.com/luc_vn/veere We walked along canals and to the old town hall. This was once a trading center for Scottish wool. You can see symbols over doors of lambs indicating that. Coffee with a boulus and then on by bus to an impressive engineering project...the Delta Works. Much of the Netherlands as you likely know is below sea level. Several times there have been disastrous floods from the North Sea and so eventually an extensive system of dams and dikes has been erected such as Delta Works. These huge concrete piers act as a storm surge barrier and the locks regulate the water level. I bought a booklet sabout this for our engineer son. http://www.deltaworken.com/English/10.html

Moving on to Terneuzen, Kinderdijk, The Hague, Ghent, Antwerp, and Brugges. Thanks for your indulgence...I'm taking more time reporting than on past trips to Scandinavia, Poland, Hungary, Italy, etc.

Ozarks Bill

....for our June anniversary...our 56th.

Congratulations, Ozarks Bill, and wife!!! I hope my husband and I will still be travelling when we celebrate our 56th (24 more years to go).

I'm really enjoying your trip report. Looking forward to the next installment.

Robyn

Ozarksbill, interesting report. I have been to the Netherlands several times and loved it every time. I finally got to go to Keukenhoff after I retired (teacher and couldn't take time off from school to travel in tulip time.) It was truly a wonderful sight! as were all the fields in the area and north of Amsterdam.

Please continue!

Great report!

Moving on now to a very scenic and in fact UNESCO World Heritage site...Kinderdijk. This is a free park where you can leisurely stroll around viewing the polder mills along a canal. They were built in the mid 18th century to prevent flooding and still maintain the proper water level. You can visit a repair shop where a worker will explain the considerable maintenance required. There are many fewer windmills in Holland than in early days and there use was not for grinding grain but for flood control and drainage. Hope this link works as some don't seem to... http://usholland.com/t/kinderdijk

Next we visit The Hague (Den Haag) which is the national capital although the Queen is enthroned in Amsterdam. Here is where parliament meets and there are rows of embassies...with the U. S. one likely the ugliest made of stark concrete. I hear maybe a new one is being built. We caught a glimpse of Queen Beatrix in the Parliament building courtyard who was entertaining the Swedish Royalty. The citizens love their Queen and also the Prince and his Spanish wife. By the way Queen Beatrix as I understand has some influence behind the scenes in governmental affairs. A few days later on April 30 which is Queen's Day was the terrorist attack which shocked the people.

We lunched with some cyber friends! For some years we have been emailing Mascha and Simon who live here and whose son is on city council, and now we got to meet them which was great. We accompanied them to the Mauritshuis Museum which is a mansion containing a great art collection. Most famous are likely Vermeer's "Girl with a Pearl Earring"* and Rembrandt's "Anatomy Lesson." Of course, The Hague is known for being the site of the Peace Palace but no entry possible. Many conferences have been held here. The city isn't far from the North Sea and a long beach, and Scheveningen, a seaside resort with the huge Circustheater for performances.

Continued soon. *Yes, we saw the movie.
Ozarksbill

Schoonhoven, another nice town, once known as the "silver town" with trade in silver. And indeed over 40 silver and goldsmiths can be found here! A late Gothic city hall is an unusual six sided building. We did have some fun...our program directors staged a nighttime scavenger witchhunt!

Terneuzen isn't much of a scenic spot. Long ago they filled in the canals ending its commercial era. It is the home of the Flying Dutchman. BTW, on front doors here and in other towns you'll see on front door mail slots a JA in green or NEE in red. The latter seen most often signals that you want to unsolicited mail while the former says it's OK if it has your name on it.

But from Terneuzen we got a bus into Ghent which is in Belgium. So now we are in Flanders. This is a major commercial center and port with some canals. Big flea market today. I think Ghent is where I photographed a man using a public urinal. Need I explain? St. Bavo's Cathedral and Belfry is awsome. We note the special altar piece by Van Eyck with a strange name...Adoration of the Mystic Lamb. Note about language...folks do speak a form of Dutch here or actually a less gutteral Flemish and also French in the south and still there is a language barrier north and south. Belgium is a constitutional monarchy with King Albert II having executive power with the prime minister.

Departure for Antwerp next and then Brugges to finish up this report. Ozarksbill

Some confusion in my note about mail slots...JA means yes but only if one's name is on the junk mail and NEE means no way! Many people have two NEEs. Great idea for us, right? OB

So far we've been in the Netherlands and now some days in Belgium. Ghent/Gent already described and on to Antwerp. This is a major modern port city yet retains ancient charm. Lots of tourist...yes Japanese too. And lots of folks on carriage rides to see the sites. As it happened, it was raining on this rainy Sunday. We went to Mass at the huge Cathedral of our Lady with wonderful choral chants. Being Protestant this was mostly so we could view close up later the large paintings in the front by Peter Paul Ruebens on the "Raising of the Cross" and "Descent from the Cross."

The bells in the steeple were tolling as we stood in the large Groenplaats (Market). Town Hall is impressive in this still busy commercial center. Things were set up for a marathon it seemed and indeed runners straggled in. Lunch at De Koninck, sandwiches with tengerlo bruin (dark twice brewed). Afterwards, a walk to the Rubenshuis off Meir St. The artist was reknowned in his day and acquired his own art collection in this residence. We had trouble getting back aboard ship being delayed by a massive marathon down Van Dyckkaan (that earlier one was nothing in comparison...this one we heard had 26,000 runners!). Finally crossed over and in the evening a farewell dinner.

Final stay in Brugges...yes a wonderful place despite the crowds with a Medieval charm. Upon arrival we did the canal cruise since our hotel rooms weren't ready. Then a snack on Market Square of frits with mayo which is very popular...
still like ketchup. Here one sees the once powerful guyild halls. A bit chilly with some showers. From the canal you can see many old buildings and flowering plants.

N H Brugge was our hotel and I liked its charm and location. Once a monastery I think. Good breakfast buffet included. First night our group had a progressive dinner which was fun...soup at DeZanloper, chicken and potato dish with beer at 't Schrijverke, then apple tart and coffee at Malpeitus in a basement. This was where resistance fighters secretly met only to be discovered by the Nazis days before liberation.

Two more days in this lovely city. One stop was at a chocolate shop (Sukerbuye Chocolaterie) for a demonstration
...one of the few shops still hand making chocolate. (At home we passed out Belgian chocolates to all our friends). A walk over to the Beguinage, residence for nuns and other women. Afterwards to Church of Our Lady wherein is found a marble
"Madonna and Child" by Michelangelo. Also there is a giant triptych of the Passion" by Van Orlay, a Van Dyck
"Crucifixion" and more. A modern sculpture in the narthex depicts the Emmaus experience with a meaningful meditation of how we are all disciples at Emmaus (if anyone wants the text I'll gladly email it). We came back to the church later for an acapella concert by the Simpson College (Iowa) choir. Wonderful sound!

Our several lunches were soup and sandwich at La Bagette and
t' Schrijverke and dinners at De Hanze and t' Pallierterke near the huge modern Concert Hall (looking out of place) which isn't far from the hotel. And some waffle and beer breaks.

The sunshine returned...how lucky! Other sightseeing included St. Salvator Church restored after the French invasion and a fire with wonderful tapestries, Belfort and Hallen, i.e., impressive tower and open market, a lace shop including a demonstration, Burg Square with Town Hall and Law Courts next to it, and Basilica of Holy Blood (including a little grotto-like chapel). Then also a special exhibit of Charles the Bold in the Groening Museum. This was a Burgundian ruler with aspirations for glory but defeated by the Swiss army. Paintings and tapestries and such to see...and a lovely garden where we sat resting our feet watching the horse draw carriages go by.

Time to go home. Early flight to London and then Boston to visit with our son. I was getting a cold anyway. Great trip including so many quaint towns, bustling but historic cities, wonderful art, river cruising with fantastic meals, and to finish up in Brugges.

Ozarksbill (yes, I saw "In Brugges" and want to see it again 'cause of the emphasis by the one gangster on his love of the city) walongman@yahoo.com

Thanks for finishing your report. I've visited Brugge and Ghent before, but will be visiting Antwerp for the first time this October. I'm looking forward to chasing the ghost of Rubens.

Robyn

Thanks artstuff for reading my report...a labor of love so to speak. So you've been to Amsterdam many times? We'd been there once headed for Israel and also to Brussels & Brugges in a general European trip vowing to return. Antwerp is busy but fascinating...our son told us we would enjoy it. BTW, I really would like to take that journey you did a year ago in Germany!

So you read my Mosel to Munich trip report? We had a GREAT time and absolutely fell in love with Germany, particularly Bavaria (I think the good beer was a factor there). The public transportation system made it easy to navigate through the country. You really should think about visiting Germany in the future.

This October will be our sixth time visiting Amsterdam, and our fourth time taking friends with us on our journey. We usually go in the spring so we can enjoy the Keukenhof, but this time we decided to see what the city looked like in the autumn. We will spend 2 nights in Amsterdam, then train to Antwerp for the night, then train to the south of France for six nights before heading back north to Paris for 3 nights, then ending up in Amsterdam for another 3 nights before flying home. This is our friends first time to Europe and he wants to ride high speed trains and eat Bouilliabasse in Marseille, so that's what we're going to do.

Robyn

Oh what a great travel report!! You do a wonderful job and the whole trip feels alive, thank you!

artstuf...you surely do travel! We'd love to tour Philly which is your home territory I believe incl. history and art museums. Your mention of Bavarian beer...food is indeed an important part of travel. In my case it would be Belgian beer and chocolates and Dutch cheese and waffles. I am not a beer drinker actually but when in England and later in Ireland acquired a taste for dark brews which I found in Belgium. As for their dark chocolates, I love 'em! Ditto Dutch cheeses of all kinds which are wonderful for snacks. Then we have stroopwafels which as mentioned you are supposed to place over a steaming cup of coffee to release the flavor. Thanks for indulging me with mouthwatering memories!

BTW, a strange touristy thing...my collection of 21 beer coasters! OB

Ozarksbill, I read this trip report at your suggestion on my post. Excellent information and I really appreciate it. It's good to hear that you like Brugges as we were planning a couple of days there.

A couple of years ago, we were in Honolulu when they had their annual marathon. From our hotel room, we could glimpse part of the route. This is a huge marathon, starts at 5am with runners and the walkers follow. They had 25,000 participants from Japan alone! Our plane left that day, and when we checked out of our hotel at noon, the last of the walkers had just finished leaving the starting gate. We had to walk a few blocks with our luggage to catch our cab.

BTW, your screen name? Do you live in northern AR?

Yep, Bruges was a relaxing time at the end of our tour. The canals and cobblestone streets and open squares and carriages make it nice. As to frits with mayo we are divided...OK with wife, but ketchup for me if you please.

Hawaii is one place we have in mind...never been. Hopefully not on marathon days! What did you like best?

We live in Springfield, MO...and how about you? Do you have an Arkansas connection?

Ozarksbill walongman@yahoo.com

We've been to HI three times, once to Maui with kids, once to the Big Island, and the last time we split between Honolulu and Kaui. We liked the big island the best. Truly unlike any other resort destination we've ever seen. We liked the volcano the best. We left most of our stuff in our Kona resort hotel, and drove there, staying overnight at the lodge. Walked the lava from about 2 hours before sunset to about 2 hours after. Drove back to the lodge, parking our convertible on a pull out before going over the top of the hill. There is nothing for 2000 miles one way, and the mountain blocks light from the distant town. The blackest sky and many millions of stars. We sat there and stared for half an hour.

We like northern AR as a camping destination. We're RVrs now, and haven't visited since buying a motorhome, so don't know if we'd enjoy as much with this rig.

Anyway, thanks for all the information. I really liked your trip report. In some ways it will parallel our plan, although we're also planning to spend 6 nights in Paris.