Spain Trip Report Part 2: Sevilla, Ronda, Nerja
Sep 28th, 2010, 04:10 PM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Spain Trip Report Part 2: Sevilla, Ronda, Nerja
Our Spain itinerary in Sep 2010:
4 nights Madrid, include day trip to Toledo
3 nights Sevilla, include stop at Cordoba on the way from Madrid
2 nights Ronda
2 nights Nerja
2 nights Granada
5 nights Barcelona, include day trip to Figueres
Previously; Spain Part 1: Madrid, Toledo, Cordoba
Next: Spain Part 3: Granada, Barcelona
We arrived in Sevilla by AVE train from Madrid on Wednesday about 18:30. En route, we had stopped in Cordoba about 11:40 and spent the afternoon up in the Mezquita area.
For a detailed report on our train experience, take a look at my recent post; Spain Trains - a new user’s report - positive.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...t-positive.cfm
We took a cab to our hotel, Hotel Alminar, on a pedestrian only street about 300 yards to the north of the Cathedral, which was our first little problem. Because we were the last to check in, we got room 3, on the ground floor, which was also the handicapped room. Now we have stayed in handicapped rooms before. Got no problem with them. But this one seemed like they forgot to make it the same quality as the others. The bathroom was “creepy” according to DW, with a single free standing stainless steel sink, no shelving of any kind. The shower floor had mold on it, and the whole room smelled moldy and musty.
We immediately asked for another room, but none were available. Because of our complaints, the manager did tell us that if we found another hotel for the other two nights of our stay, she would not charge cancellation fees for the rest of the term. It was already pretty late but we immediately phoned around. All hotels I had searched before were full. We dined at a restaurant near the hotel, average. However the deserts were excellent, and we returned for deserts the next night.
When we returned to the hotel, the manager said proudly that she had made arrangements, and we would be moved to an upstairs room for the next two nights. We were so relieved. Room 3 was in a corner next to two very narrow pedestrian streets. Due to us being tired, and the relief of getting a different room, we slept 12 hours. It was very dark and there was no street noise whatsoever.
The new room, 13 was very nice. Windows opened to face balconies not 15 feet away. Wrought iron works were intricate. Bathroom was very neat. There was a double bed (actually, in the Spanish way, two singles pushed together) as well as a separate single.
DW’s hair dryer rating was “OK.” The room had a safe, and a computer was available in the lobby for 2 € per hour, but they didn’t keep track completely. Like the hotel in Madrid, you had to put your key in a little slot when you came into the room to turn on the electricity.
The desk help was universally helpful and friendly, with lots of recommendations for restaurants. After the move to room 13, we were thrilled with this hotel. A very basic breakfast was available in the lobby for 6 €, which we did not partake. We chose instead to eat breakfast at a couple of neat cafe’s, details later.
On Thursday, I revolted. No more bread and yogurt. I want eggs and bacon. I went out early and scouted around. I found a cafe open for breakfast on the corner across from the cathedral on Ave Constitucion. On the menu was “broken eggs” with bacon. (I learned later that “sausage” was actually more like a frankfurter, or hot dog.)
I brought DW back. Now she does like eggs, but is kinda persnickity about how they are cooked. These were done properly, though the waiter was overworked and they were not totally hot when we got them on the table. But I was mollified, and DW, being the good sport that she is, didn’t complain too much. But that was the end of DW’s egg breakfasts in Spain.
We spent a couple of hours in the Cathedral. If it had been the first church we had seen, we might have been more impressed. Indeed, it was beautiful and ornate, and like the other icons we had seen, was full of history. We used a guidebook instead of the 3 € audio guide. Inside is the tomb said to contain the remains of Christopher Columbus, who had quite a posthumous journey. I remember reading of this in Tony Horowitz’s book, “A Journey Long and Strange.” A good read.
I climbed the Giralda Bell Tower, built around a mosque’s minaret. DW waited in the garden below. The square tower is some 300 + feet high. There are ramps that ascend each side of the inside of the square. As you turn a corner, and look up the next ramp, there is a number above the archway to the landing. There are 35 landings, plus another 17 stairs up to the bell platform. As soon as I stepped off the last stair, huffing and puffing some, the bells started in and scared the hell out of everyone up there.
Got some good pix of Sevilla from all points of the compass. Then started back down. About level 18, I started telling people that were going up how many more flights they had. They would come around the corner huffing and I would say, “Trente Cinco.” 35. And laugh a little as they groaned. He he. Some turned back.
After the cathedral, we walked around what’s known as the Barrio Santa Cruz. We were shopping for a little flamenco outfit for our Granddaughter for Halloween. But also just cruising through the narrow little streets, “kissing lanes,” due to their proximity to the buildings across the street. It was enchanting, got a little lost, but also a bit warm, a little over 90F. We looked into several doorways to see the famous patios. As in Cordoba, due to the time of year, September, there was not much color. But there were some beautiful patios with ferns, palms and succulents around fountains.
We wandered into tiny Plaza Dona Elvira. What a cool, intimate little square, with orange trees, a fountain and a couple of cafe’s in the shade that were open and serving. Restaurant Dona Elvira served us up a great paella, better than the one in Madrid. Ricardo, an insanely happy waiter, was fun. This place was so good, we went back the next night for dinner. This meal lasted us just fine, so later we ended up back at the first restaurant for desert.
Friday, we got going late. Found a little cafe named Campanario across from the front of the cathedral that served DW’s type of breakfast; yogurt, mueslic, fruit, etc. The waitress was a charmer, and we loved her immediately. I actually got a very good egg and ham filled crepe (called a pancake on the menu), so I was happy also. Good coffee.
We hit the Real Alcazar about 11:30, spending about 2 hours there with their audio guide. Since we were over 65, we showed the passport and admission was free (normally 7 €). This palace was really something to behold, quite well preserved. The gardens are extensive and beautiful. The building is a wonderful blend of Christian and Muslim architecture.
We continued our hunt for the outfit, and stumbled into girls selling tickets to a one hour flamenco show that night. It was ok, and gave the general gist of the dance, but the dancers did not capture the audience. Maybe that is not possible in such a venue. After a desert, we hit the hay early.
Saturday, our travel day, we went back to the same little cafe; Campanario. The waitress seemed thrilled to see us, and we had a animated conversation and a great breakfast. With hugs we waved adios to our new friend, went back to the hotel, got our stuff and taxi’d to the train station to pick up our car.
We rented from Europcar on the internet before we left home. They had a good price, and I have never had a bad experience with them. We needed a car for about 5 days, and would return it in Granada. I priced airport to airport, and train station to station. Factoring in cab rides to airports, the station to station price won out by about 50€. When we arrived in Sevilla, I had scouted out the Europecar location, so when we got there we went right to it, got the paperwork done, and went out to the lot. We loaded up our little Hyundai 5 speed and off we went. Well, not exactly.
We couldn’t get out of the lot, because the clerk had neglected to give us a little ticket to put in the gate. An attendant straightened that out. We had decided not to take the toll road to Arcos cause by now it is after noon. Our destination is Ronda, not that far, but I was unsure of the time needed to travel on the mountain roads. I figured we could pick up Arcos along with other white villages on Sunday.
So instead of the fast toll road, we sought out the A 375 direction Utrera, a road less travelled. We got disoriented trying to find Sevilla’s version of a beltway and had to back track once, but the Lady Navigator finally found the solutions, and we were making our way south. As soon as we cleared Sevilla, the road was mostly 2 lane, with 4 lane areas around smaller villages. South of Utrera the countryside became dry and hilly as we began to gain altitude into the mountains. The road was two lane, but well maintained.
Suddenly we came around a bend and off to the right, about a km down a dirt road was the ruins of an old castle. We turned down the road, and drove up to the remains of Castillos de las Aguzaderas. It is falling into ruins, no body is taking care of it. There is a little sign in Spanish and English, explaining that some 700-800 years ago this was an important stop, as it was built on one of the only fresh water springs for miles around. A very interesting little stop. One can climb around at will in the ruins, though it doesn’t look so safe.
We continued on south, destination Zahara, which we found easy enough. Surprised by the amount of traffic in town, they were having a motorcycle hill climbing event up behind the town. We stopped at the Hotel Al Lago, and had a delightful lunch on a patio overlooking the lake. The bar was full of locals watching an auto race. The hotel is run by an American chef and his Pakistani British wife. The food was good and it looks like a great little hotel. I was kinda sorry we weren’t staying there. After lunch, we walked around on some streets, then got in the car and drove up very narrow streets to the little church.
Zahara is one of the most talked about of the white villages. There are many in these mountains. You can see them from the highway, and they look like large patches of snow against the brown green of the September mountains. I had planned on seeing more of them on Sunday. The little red Hyundai performed ok, though even in 5th gear it seemed to strain a bit at higher speeds, and didn’t have a lot of giddy-up going up hills. But I loved it in the narrow streets of towns, and for gearing down on the downhill, it was very good.
We took the main road into Ronda, and followed the signs to “Centro Urbano,” on some very narrow streets, and soon found ourselves in the plaza in front of the famous bridge. On one side of the road is the Parador; on the other, the Hotel Don Miguel, our hotel for the next two nights. We parked right in front of the hotel for unloading, then parked the car in a nearby garage. The price for this hotel is 95€, less than half as much as the Parador across the street, plus 9 € for carpark. Course, you don’t have the facilities and services, but you do have the view. And what a view it is.
We checked in and got our room key, followed directions to our room, number 306. We walked into a clean but basic room with older furniture. The bathroom was compact but clean and modern. Then we opened the double doors to the outside. It took our breath away. Our tiny little balcony, big enough for two chairs sitting sideways, was perched on the very edge of the ravine. El Tajo. There, 3 feet away, and separated by fragile wrought iron, it is 360 feet straight down. 200 feet across, people gather to take photos.
Not far away is the “New Bridge” built in the1700’s and we are looking straight at the side of it. Scores of people on the bridge taking pictures. Hundreds of pigeons are circling below us, as we look down into the abyss, and pull back into the room in a spasm of high anxiety. Incredible. I went out and bought a bottle of wine, and sat in the chair on the balcony and had a drink. It was exhilarating.
The room, oh yes, the room. Like I said; basic. No frills. Good bathroom. The bed is comfortable. A real double bed, but a curious pillow that ran the entire width of the bed. No computer available. Plastic glasses. DW’s hair dryer rating - “Wimp!” Very good value because of it’s position on the canyon wall, IMHO. DW was thrilled.
The hotel’s highly touted restaurant was closed due to a private party, so we walked across the bridge and looked in on two restaurants across from the Parador. Ended up at the Duguesa de Parcent. I would say, “Don’t go there.” My dish was terrible. DW’s doesn’t agree; her salmon was real good. The service was so bad it was funny. They threw on a wet table cloth, with wet napkins, like they’d been washed but not dried. They had an almost full restaurant, but obviously were trying to close up and go home.
It was here we picked up our first English language newspaper. There are several published on the coast specifically for the large British population. It read like a gossip sheet of the goings on. Kind of interesting and funny.
Sunday in Ronda: DW was happy with the breakfast, included. Limited choice of breads, toaster. But they had yogurt and mueslic and some fruits. Their runny scrambled eggs were inedible. We determined that we were tired, and that we did not want to get back in the car for a tour of the white villages of Andalucia. Maybe we shorted ourselves an adventure, but we decided instead to stay in, do some laundry in the room, then wander around the old center of Ronda. For us, it was a good choice. We took the opportunity to enjoy long siestas.
During the day, busses arrive from the coast bringing hundreds of daytrippers. But in the early morning, and later in the day when they leave, Ronda is an enchanting town. We walked through the Moorish Quarter, with very narrow and twisting streets. All the tourists seem to congregate at the bridge and around the ravine. So once away from that, there are fewer people. The little plaza’s and squares are cool and shady. A little park has gorgeous views of the distant mountains and the valley below.
In most every open space, there is a musician playing a classical guitar. We lunched at the plaza in front of the large church with wonderful musical accompaniment. We walked around the beautiful gardens behind the Parador, and looked down in the ravine to find many people down there hiking around. Some even swimming in the river.
That night we dined at the hotel. The salad was huge, we could have split one. The duck and lamb dinners were very good. We liked Ronda very much for the peace and quiet and it’s charming parks and squares. The dramatic views, right from our room, will stay with us a long time.
Monday, on to the coast: We checked out of our hotel and sadly drove out of Ronda. Through twisty and narrow streets, finding some large towers at the city wall for some final photos. The road south twisted through mountainous terrain. Off in the distance, we could see little white villages perched on the sides of mountains. Once in a while a little dirt road would branch off toward them. We stopped several times to take pictures, and also to let cars go by. Our little Hyundai chugged and chugged, but didn’t like hill climbing too much. But later, we got behind a large truck, and everything slowed down.
As we got closer to the coast, we began to get glimpses of the Med. Also, development making it’s way up the arroyo’s below us. Golf courses and housing developments. The road south from Ronda comes out on the coast at San Pedro, a little to the west of Marbella, where DW wanted to go for lunch. After a little driving around we found the center, parked in a public lot, and had a great lunch in Plaza Naranjos. A cool, shady plaza with lots of orange trees (naranjos). It was interesting, but kind of unimpressive after what we had been seeing. The lunch was good, and the setting quite peaceful.
We got back on the road and quickly found the A 7 Eastbound. On to Nerja, and upon exiting found the signs to the Parador. I had trouble finding a place along the coast. Many on the coast have a hefty fee, or have a 3 night minimum. After reading about Nerja and Playa Burriana, we decided to splurge and stay at the Parador. We were not disappointed.
Beautiful grounds up on the cliff, with an elevator down to the beach. The room was large, the bathroom modern, double vanities, and the beds comfortable. DW was thrilled that “finally, kleenex.” Doors opened to a balcony looking out over the grounds, the Mediterranean, and Burriana. There was a computer for guests to use in the lobby for free. DW’s hair dryer rating: “Weak.”
We immediately donned bathing clothes and headed for the beach, the sole reason for us being on the coast. We got down to Playa Burriana via the hotel’s elevator, and strolled the length checking out the restaurants for future reference. Then stepped into the water. The surf was a bit rough, and there is a bit of a drop-off, so we just got wet, and called it a day. As it was getting later in the aftenoon, we returned to our room, did a little washing by hand, then dressed for dinner (shorts and a t-shirt).
Our first meal down on Burriana was at Jose Cruz. I had Bar B Q beef, very good, DW had paella, also very good. The 6€ “portion” was as much food as the one for 2 back in Sevilla, and we must say, better. We lingered over very good food and drink, not realizing that the elevator stopped working at 9 pm. So we found ourselves walking up a pretty good hill on full stomachs. Something I would not recommend.
The next morning, we walked past the 18 € each hotel buffet, and made it back to Jose Cruz, where we had spotted a pretty good breakfast menu. Indeed, real good eggs, bacon and coffee. It was here I found that “sausage” is actually a hot dog. Total breakfast, 12 €.
Today was beach day, and surf cooperated by calming down. We rented lounges underneath some palm trees in front of Ayo’s for 4 € each, and drifted in and out of sleep to the soothing sounds of the surf. We also swam a lot. It quickly became obvious that Burriana beach goers have no problem going topless. At any age or condition. Interesting.
For lunch, we had the paella that will be forever the standard. Ayo has been dishing out paella on Burriana for decades. His restaurant seats over 100, and was almost full pretty much the whole day. His cooks have huge pots of it cooking in full view of passers by. He dishes it out on small plates for 6 € each which your waiter brings you. If you want more, you simply bring your plate to him, and he’ll spoon you some more. All you can eat for 6€. The prawns were huge. The chicken and pork were very juicy. An excellent lunch. Ayo’s, on Playa Burriana. Don’t miss it if your in the neighborhood.
After all that paella, had ice cream in the early evening, made the elevator before 9, and called it a day.
We loved Sevilla, and found people there to be very friendly. Combined with Toledo and Cordoba, the history of Andalucia is very thick. I must read more. Ronda was charming. Nerja gave us the mandatory beach day we had hoped for and a paella that will probably never be beat. We got a feel for the mountainous countryside, so similar to our own Sierra Nevada foothills here in California.
We checked out of the Parador, got the car and drove the short distance to the Balcon de Europe. We parked in a public parking lot, strolled the Balcon and had breakfast in one of the hotels there. Very nice end to our stay on Costa de Sol. Now off to Granada and Barcelona; Part 3.
4 nights Madrid, include day trip to Toledo
3 nights Sevilla, include stop at Cordoba on the way from Madrid
2 nights Ronda
2 nights Nerja
2 nights Granada
5 nights Barcelona, include day trip to Figueres
Previously; Spain Part 1: Madrid, Toledo, Cordoba
Next: Spain Part 3: Granada, Barcelona
We arrived in Sevilla by AVE train from Madrid on Wednesday about 18:30. En route, we had stopped in Cordoba about 11:40 and spent the afternoon up in the Mezquita area.
For a detailed report on our train experience, take a look at my recent post; Spain Trains - a new user’s report - positive.
http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...t-positive.cfm
We took a cab to our hotel, Hotel Alminar, on a pedestrian only street about 300 yards to the north of the Cathedral, which was our first little problem. Because we were the last to check in, we got room 3, on the ground floor, which was also the handicapped room. Now we have stayed in handicapped rooms before. Got no problem with them. But this one seemed like they forgot to make it the same quality as the others. The bathroom was “creepy” according to DW, with a single free standing stainless steel sink, no shelving of any kind. The shower floor had mold on it, and the whole room smelled moldy and musty.
We immediately asked for another room, but none were available. Because of our complaints, the manager did tell us that if we found another hotel for the other two nights of our stay, she would not charge cancellation fees for the rest of the term. It was already pretty late but we immediately phoned around. All hotels I had searched before were full. We dined at a restaurant near the hotel, average. However the deserts were excellent, and we returned for deserts the next night.
When we returned to the hotel, the manager said proudly that she had made arrangements, and we would be moved to an upstairs room for the next two nights. We were so relieved. Room 3 was in a corner next to two very narrow pedestrian streets. Due to us being tired, and the relief of getting a different room, we slept 12 hours. It was very dark and there was no street noise whatsoever.
The new room, 13 was very nice. Windows opened to face balconies not 15 feet away. Wrought iron works were intricate. Bathroom was very neat. There was a double bed (actually, in the Spanish way, two singles pushed together) as well as a separate single.
DW’s hair dryer rating was “OK.” The room had a safe, and a computer was available in the lobby for 2 € per hour, but they didn’t keep track completely. Like the hotel in Madrid, you had to put your key in a little slot when you came into the room to turn on the electricity.
The desk help was universally helpful and friendly, with lots of recommendations for restaurants. After the move to room 13, we were thrilled with this hotel. A very basic breakfast was available in the lobby for 6 €, which we did not partake. We chose instead to eat breakfast at a couple of neat cafe’s, details later.
On Thursday, I revolted. No more bread and yogurt. I want eggs and bacon. I went out early and scouted around. I found a cafe open for breakfast on the corner across from the cathedral on Ave Constitucion. On the menu was “broken eggs” with bacon. (I learned later that “sausage” was actually more like a frankfurter, or hot dog.)
I brought DW back. Now she does like eggs, but is kinda persnickity about how they are cooked. These were done properly, though the waiter was overworked and they were not totally hot when we got them on the table. But I was mollified, and DW, being the good sport that she is, didn’t complain too much. But that was the end of DW’s egg breakfasts in Spain.
We spent a couple of hours in the Cathedral. If it had been the first church we had seen, we might have been more impressed. Indeed, it was beautiful and ornate, and like the other icons we had seen, was full of history. We used a guidebook instead of the 3 € audio guide. Inside is the tomb said to contain the remains of Christopher Columbus, who had quite a posthumous journey. I remember reading of this in Tony Horowitz’s book, “A Journey Long and Strange.” A good read.
I climbed the Giralda Bell Tower, built around a mosque’s minaret. DW waited in the garden below. The square tower is some 300 + feet high. There are ramps that ascend each side of the inside of the square. As you turn a corner, and look up the next ramp, there is a number above the archway to the landing. There are 35 landings, plus another 17 stairs up to the bell platform. As soon as I stepped off the last stair, huffing and puffing some, the bells started in and scared the hell out of everyone up there.
Got some good pix of Sevilla from all points of the compass. Then started back down. About level 18, I started telling people that were going up how many more flights they had. They would come around the corner huffing and I would say, “Trente Cinco.” 35. And laugh a little as they groaned. He he. Some turned back.
After the cathedral, we walked around what’s known as the Barrio Santa Cruz. We were shopping for a little flamenco outfit for our Granddaughter for Halloween. But also just cruising through the narrow little streets, “kissing lanes,” due to their proximity to the buildings across the street. It was enchanting, got a little lost, but also a bit warm, a little over 90F. We looked into several doorways to see the famous patios. As in Cordoba, due to the time of year, September, there was not much color. But there were some beautiful patios with ferns, palms and succulents around fountains.
We wandered into tiny Plaza Dona Elvira. What a cool, intimate little square, with orange trees, a fountain and a couple of cafe’s in the shade that were open and serving. Restaurant Dona Elvira served us up a great paella, better than the one in Madrid. Ricardo, an insanely happy waiter, was fun. This place was so good, we went back the next night for dinner. This meal lasted us just fine, so later we ended up back at the first restaurant for desert.
Friday, we got going late. Found a little cafe named Campanario across from the front of the cathedral that served DW’s type of breakfast; yogurt, mueslic, fruit, etc. The waitress was a charmer, and we loved her immediately. I actually got a very good egg and ham filled crepe (called a pancake on the menu), so I was happy also. Good coffee.
We hit the Real Alcazar about 11:30, spending about 2 hours there with their audio guide. Since we were over 65, we showed the passport and admission was free (normally 7 €). This palace was really something to behold, quite well preserved. The gardens are extensive and beautiful. The building is a wonderful blend of Christian and Muslim architecture.
We continued our hunt for the outfit, and stumbled into girls selling tickets to a one hour flamenco show that night. It was ok, and gave the general gist of the dance, but the dancers did not capture the audience. Maybe that is not possible in such a venue. After a desert, we hit the hay early.
Saturday, our travel day, we went back to the same little cafe; Campanario. The waitress seemed thrilled to see us, and we had a animated conversation and a great breakfast. With hugs we waved adios to our new friend, went back to the hotel, got our stuff and taxi’d to the train station to pick up our car.
We rented from Europcar on the internet before we left home. They had a good price, and I have never had a bad experience with them. We needed a car for about 5 days, and would return it in Granada. I priced airport to airport, and train station to station. Factoring in cab rides to airports, the station to station price won out by about 50€. When we arrived in Sevilla, I had scouted out the Europecar location, so when we got there we went right to it, got the paperwork done, and went out to the lot. We loaded up our little Hyundai 5 speed and off we went. Well, not exactly.
We couldn’t get out of the lot, because the clerk had neglected to give us a little ticket to put in the gate. An attendant straightened that out. We had decided not to take the toll road to Arcos cause by now it is after noon. Our destination is Ronda, not that far, but I was unsure of the time needed to travel on the mountain roads. I figured we could pick up Arcos along with other white villages on Sunday.
So instead of the fast toll road, we sought out the A 375 direction Utrera, a road less travelled. We got disoriented trying to find Sevilla’s version of a beltway and had to back track once, but the Lady Navigator finally found the solutions, and we were making our way south. As soon as we cleared Sevilla, the road was mostly 2 lane, with 4 lane areas around smaller villages. South of Utrera the countryside became dry and hilly as we began to gain altitude into the mountains. The road was two lane, but well maintained.
Suddenly we came around a bend and off to the right, about a km down a dirt road was the ruins of an old castle. We turned down the road, and drove up to the remains of Castillos de las Aguzaderas. It is falling into ruins, no body is taking care of it. There is a little sign in Spanish and English, explaining that some 700-800 years ago this was an important stop, as it was built on one of the only fresh water springs for miles around. A very interesting little stop. One can climb around at will in the ruins, though it doesn’t look so safe.
We continued on south, destination Zahara, which we found easy enough. Surprised by the amount of traffic in town, they were having a motorcycle hill climbing event up behind the town. We stopped at the Hotel Al Lago, and had a delightful lunch on a patio overlooking the lake. The bar was full of locals watching an auto race. The hotel is run by an American chef and his Pakistani British wife. The food was good and it looks like a great little hotel. I was kinda sorry we weren’t staying there. After lunch, we walked around on some streets, then got in the car and drove up very narrow streets to the little church.
Zahara is one of the most talked about of the white villages. There are many in these mountains. You can see them from the highway, and they look like large patches of snow against the brown green of the September mountains. I had planned on seeing more of them on Sunday. The little red Hyundai performed ok, though even in 5th gear it seemed to strain a bit at higher speeds, and didn’t have a lot of giddy-up going up hills. But I loved it in the narrow streets of towns, and for gearing down on the downhill, it was very good.
We took the main road into Ronda, and followed the signs to “Centro Urbano,” on some very narrow streets, and soon found ourselves in the plaza in front of the famous bridge. On one side of the road is the Parador; on the other, the Hotel Don Miguel, our hotel for the next two nights. We parked right in front of the hotel for unloading, then parked the car in a nearby garage. The price for this hotel is 95€, less than half as much as the Parador across the street, plus 9 € for carpark. Course, you don’t have the facilities and services, but you do have the view. And what a view it is.
We checked in and got our room key, followed directions to our room, number 306. We walked into a clean but basic room with older furniture. The bathroom was compact but clean and modern. Then we opened the double doors to the outside. It took our breath away. Our tiny little balcony, big enough for two chairs sitting sideways, was perched on the very edge of the ravine. El Tajo. There, 3 feet away, and separated by fragile wrought iron, it is 360 feet straight down. 200 feet across, people gather to take photos.
Not far away is the “New Bridge” built in the1700’s and we are looking straight at the side of it. Scores of people on the bridge taking pictures. Hundreds of pigeons are circling below us, as we look down into the abyss, and pull back into the room in a spasm of high anxiety. Incredible. I went out and bought a bottle of wine, and sat in the chair on the balcony and had a drink. It was exhilarating.
The room, oh yes, the room. Like I said; basic. No frills. Good bathroom. The bed is comfortable. A real double bed, but a curious pillow that ran the entire width of the bed. No computer available. Plastic glasses. DW’s hair dryer rating - “Wimp!” Very good value because of it’s position on the canyon wall, IMHO. DW was thrilled.
The hotel’s highly touted restaurant was closed due to a private party, so we walked across the bridge and looked in on two restaurants across from the Parador. Ended up at the Duguesa de Parcent. I would say, “Don’t go there.” My dish was terrible. DW’s doesn’t agree; her salmon was real good. The service was so bad it was funny. They threw on a wet table cloth, with wet napkins, like they’d been washed but not dried. They had an almost full restaurant, but obviously were trying to close up and go home.
It was here we picked up our first English language newspaper. There are several published on the coast specifically for the large British population. It read like a gossip sheet of the goings on. Kind of interesting and funny.
Sunday in Ronda: DW was happy with the breakfast, included. Limited choice of breads, toaster. But they had yogurt and mueslic and some fruits. Their runny scrambled eggs were inedible. We determined that we were tired, and that we did not want to get back in the car for a tour of the white villages of Andalucia. Maybe we shorted ourselves an adventure, but we decided instead to stay in, do some laundry in the room, then wander around the old center of Ronda. For us, it was a good choice. We took the opportunity to enjoy long siestas.
During the day, busses arrive from the coast bringing hundreds of daytrippers. But in the early morning, and later in the day when they leave, Ronda is an enchanting town. We walked through the Moorish Quarter, with very narrow and twisting streets. All the tourists seem to congregate at the bridge and around the ravine. So once away from that, there are fewer people. The little plaza’s and squares are cool and shady. A little park has gorgeous views of the distant mountains and the valley below.
In most every open space, there is a musician playing a classical guitar. We lunched at the plaza in front of the large church with wonderful musical accompaniment. We walked around the beautiful gardens behind the Parador, and looked down in the ravine to find many people down there hiking around. Some even swimming in the river.
That night we dined at the hotel. The salad was huge, we could have split one. The duck and lamb dinners were very good. We liked Ronda very much for the peace and quiet and it’s charming parks and squares. The dramatic views, right from our room, will stay with us a long time.
Monday, on to the coast: We checked out of our hotel and sadly drove out of Ronda. Through twisty and narrow streets, finding some large towers at the city wall for some final photos. The road south twisted through mountainous terrain. Off in the distance, we could see little white villages perched on the sides of mountains. Once in a while a little dirt road would branch off toward them. We stopped several times to take pictures, and also to let cars go by. Our little Hyundai chugged and chugged, but didn’t like hill climbing too much. But later, we got behind a large truck, and everything slowed down.
As we got closer to the coast, we began to get glimpses of the Med. Also, development making it’s way up the arroyo’s below us. Golf courses and housing developments. The road south from Ronda comes out on the coast at San Pedro, a little to the west of Marbella, where DW wanted to go for lunch. After a little driving around we found the center, parked in a public lot, and had a great lunch in Plaza Naranjos. A cool, shady plaza with lots of orange trees (naranjos). It was interesting, but kind of unimpressive after what we had been seeing. The lunch was good, and the setting quite peaceful.
We got back on the road and quickly found the A 7 Eastbound. On to Nerja, and upon exiting found the signs to the Parador. I had trouble finding a place along the coast. Many on the coast have a hefty fee, or have a 3 night minimum. After reading about Nerja and Playa Burriana, we decided to splurge and stay at the Parador. We were not disappointed.
Beautiful grounds up on the cliff, with an elevator down to the beach. The room was large, the bathroom modern, double vanities, and the beds comfortable. DW was thrilled that “finally, kleenex.” Doors opened to a balcony looking out over the grounds, the Mediterranean, and Burriana. There was a computer for guests to use in the lobby for free. DW’s hair dryer rating: “Weak.”
We immediately donned bathing clothes and headed for the beach, the sole reason for us being on the coast. We got down to Playa Burriana via the hotel’s elevator, and strolled the length checking out the restaurants for future reference. Then stepped into the water. The surf was a bit rough, and there is a bit of a drop-off, so we just got wet, and called it a day. As it was getting later in the aftenoon, we returned to our room, did a little washing by hand, then dressed for dinner (shorts and a t-shirt).
Our first meal down on Burriana was at Jose Cruz. I had Bar B Q beef, very good, DW had paella, also very good. The 6€ “portion” was as much food as the one for 2 back in Sevilla, and we must say, better. We lingered over very good food and drink, not realizing that the elevator stopped working at 9 pm. So we found ourselves walking up a pretty good hill on full stomachs. Something I would not recommend.
The next morning, we walked past the 18 € each hotel buffet, and made it back to Jose Cruz, where we had spotted a pretty good breakfast menu. Indeed, real good eggs, bacon and coffee. It was here I found that “sausage” is actually a hot dog. Total breakfast, 12 €.
Today was beach day, and surf cooperated by calming down. We rented lounges underneath some palm trees in front of Ayo’s for 4 € each, and drifted in and out of sleep to the soothing sounds of the surf. We also swam a lot. It quickly became obvious that Burriana beach goers have no problem going topless. At any age or condition. Interesting.
For lunch, we had the paella that will be forever the standard. Ayo has been dishing out paella on Burriana for decades. His restaurant seats over 100, and was almost full pretty much the whole day. His cooks have huge pots of it cooking in full view of passers by. He dishes it out on small plates for 6 € each which your waiter brings you. If you want more, you simply bring your plate to him, and he’ll spoon you some more. All you can eat for 6€. The prawns were huge. The chicken and pork were very juicy. An excellent lunch. Ayo’s, on Playa Burriana. Don’t miss it if your in the neighborhood.
After all that paella, had ice cream in the early evening, made the elevator before 9, and called it a day.
We loved Sevilla, and found people there to be very friendly. Combined with Toledo and Cordoba, the history of Andalucia is very thick. I must read more. Ronda was charming. Nerja gave us the mandatory beach day we had hoped for and a paella that will probably never be beat. We got a feel for the mountainous countryside, so similar to our own Sierra Nevada foothills here in California.
We checked out of the Parador, got the car and drove the short distance to the Balcon de Europe. We parked in a public parking lot, strolled the Balcon and had breakfast in one of the hotels there. Very nice end to our stay on Costa de Sol. Now off to Granada and Barcelona; Part 3.
Sep 28th, 2010, 08:25 PM
#3
Join Date: Jul 2007
Posts: 593
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thank you for posting! I enjoyed reading it very much, especially the little details. I am planning our 3-wk Andalucia holiday (Oct/Nov) right now. We are booked at Al Lago in Zahara for several nights at the very beginning, and hoping to spend several days also at Nerja, for seashore time.
Your reference to Castillos de las Aguzaderas interests me, and I found it on Googlemaps and put it on our list of possibilities. Thanks!
Your reference to Castillos de las Aguzaderas interests me, and I found it on Googlemaps and put it on our list of possibilities. Thanks!
Sep 29th, 2010, 01:13 AM
#4
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great report! Next time in Nerja, be sure to spend some more time in the centre and the old town close to the Balcón de Europa. Lot's of more to offer than just being a beach resort. La Marina is one of my favourite seafood restaurants in all of Spain (and yes, Ayo's paella is mostly excellent), and you find lots of genuine tapas bars that serve delicious free tapas to choose with every glass of beer, wine or whatever. Some of my favourites are El Pulguilla, El Niño, Los Cuñaos and La Puntilla.
About Nerja bars/restaurants:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/
Great site about Nerja in general:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/
About Nerja bars/restaurants:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/
Great site about Nerja in general:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/
Sep 29th, 2010, 02:45 AM
#5
Join Date: Aug 2004
Posts: 1,314
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
The Giralda has ramps inside because originally the muezzing went up to address the prayer on donkeyback. He had to go up five times a day. Now in muslim countries I have seen there is a loudspeaker. And probably a recording.
Ayo is the Paella reference in that part of the coast.
Ayo is the Paella reference in that part of the coast.
Sep 30th, 2010, 02:54 PM
#7
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would have liked to have the donkey on the way up. Yes, I had heard that about the early muezzing getting to the top.
In Granada, next to Pl St Nicolas, where one gets the post card views of the Alhambra, there is a small mosque. The views from it's pretty garden are just as good as St Nicolas, but no crowds jostling for an angle. They do their call to prayers acoustically as the neighborhood forbids amplified.
In Granada, next to Pl St Nicolas, where one gets the post card views of the Alhambra, there is a small mosque. The views from it's pretty garden are just as good as St Nicolas, but no crowds jostling for an angle. They do their call to prayers acoustically as the neighborhood forbids amplified.
Sep 30th, 2010, 02:59 PM
#8
Original Poster
Join Date: Feb 2003
Posts: 998
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
krp329: Be sure to get Michelin map # 578; Andalucia. A must have for driving around down there.
The castle is on that map, a few km's south of El Coronil. There are a few modern houses near the old castle, and the road continues on to somewhere (dirt). We just poked around in the castle for a while, then back on the road. We were the only ones there at that time.
The castle is on that map, a few km's south of El Coronil. There are a few modern houses near the old castle, and the road continues on to somewhere (dirt). We just poked around in the castle for a while, then back on the road. We were the only ones there at that time.
