Spain and/or France Basque region
Dec 9th, 2015, 03:29 PM
#1
Spain and/or France Basque region
I'm struggling with how to add a week's visit to the Basque region before ending up in Barcelona to begin a Mediterranean cruise. I originally wanted to visit San Sebastian and the French Basque side…St. Jean de Luz and a hill town. Coming from the US, my current idea is to fly into Bilbao ( and get to see the Guggenheim) for a night…rent a car…visit S.S. for two nights…head across the border and spend 2 nights in St. Jean and 2 in a hill town…then drive back to Barcelona to drop the car…hopefully spending a night en-route in a mountainous area of Spain or a parador. I'm also spending 3 nights in Barcelona before the cruise. What's bothering me is that I don't like any of the hotel options in SS….either they're more than I want to pay here or they're too basic, and a charming hotel is high on my list of trip priorities. So, I'm thinking, should I just add a night to Bilbao and visit SS as a day trip before heading to France? Or, cut out France and spend the money at a nice place in SS and maybe see more of rural, mountainous Spain? I'd really llke your thoughts on the merits of each region.
FYI, we have been to Barcelona before and the Costa Brava so don't need to see that area.
Thanks so much for your thoughts! P.S. Another idea is to just fly into Barcelona and visit the rural areas from there including La Rioja and La Seu d'Urgell. Please share your experience with either or both of the regions.
FYI, we have been to Barcelona before and the Costa Brava so don't need to see that area.
Thanks so much for your thoughts! P.S. Another idea is to just fly into Barcelona and visit the rural areas from there including La Rioja and La Seu d'Urgell. Please share your experience with either or both of the regions.
Dec 9th, 2015, 05:23 PM
#3
I was just in that region (click on my name for my ongoing TR). I had an unexpectedly nice time in Pamplona, which might fit between S.S. and Barcelona. I based in Bayonne for the French side, but might stay in Biarritz next time.
Dec 9th, 2015, 06:32 PM
#4
Hi Robert …..forgot to mention this would be about September 9-16th (arrive in BCN then)….and I just took a look at Maribel's Guide and it's wonderful! However, my husband isn't as interested in touring the wine country since he gave up drinking : - (
I would consider staying a couple of nights in a very scenic area with a charming inn if we forgot the Basque area.
thursdaysd….enjoyed reading your very detailed TR (just had time to look at Bayonne to Pamploma) I wasn't interested in going to Biarritz other than a day trip I think for the same reasons as you…sounded too "Grand Dame-ish" but the photos are beautiful. We will have a car so we have different needs that way.
I keep reading how everyone loves San Sebastian…but I'm not sure I'm going to love it. Hopefully, we'd have better weather in mid-Sept. I do love mountain scenery though so would like to include some scenic spots.
Should mention where we went on our previous trip to Spain (the week after 9/11) included driving to Pedraza, Segovia, Toledo, Cuenca, El Escorial, Grenada, Nerja, Marbella, Ronda, Arcos de Frontera, Seville, (flew to Barcelona to get car) Cadaques,Figueres, Barcelona, (flew) Deia (Mallorca), and finally flew to Madrid…so you can see we like small scenic towns.
I would consider staying a couple of nights in a very scenic area with a charming inn if we forgot the Basque area.
thursdaysd….enjoyed reading your very detailed TR (just had time to look at Bayonne to Pamploma) I wasn't interested in going to Biarritz other than a day trip I think for the same reasons as you…sounded too "Grand Dame-ish" but the photos are beautiful. We will have a car so we have different needs that way.
I keep reading how everyone loves San Sebastian…but I'm not sure I'm going to love it. Hopefully, we'd have better weather in mid-Sept. I do love mountain scenery though so would like to include some scenic spots.
Should mention where we went on our previous trip to Spain (the week after 9/11) included driving to Pedraza, Segovia, Toledo, Cuenca, El Escorial, Grenada, Nerja, Marbella, Ronda, Arcos de Frontera, Seville, (flew to Barcelona to get car) Cadaques,Figueres, Barcelona, (flew) Deia (Mallorca), and finally flew to Madrid…so you can see we like small scenic towns.
Dec 9th, 2015, 08:11 PM
#6
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you are coming from the US -- and it appears from your profile that you are -- than DO NOT plan on renting a car ASAP upon your arrival! One consequence of jet lag is a substantial increase in microsleep episodes, which are so short that you aren't even aware of them, but that are strongly associated with car accidents. And do NOT trust caffeine to solve the problem – caffeine does NOT appear to eliminate microsleeps. PLEASE, for your sakes and the sakes of ALL those on the road with you, PLEASE don't rent a car until you have recovered from jet lag!!!
Re: Bilbao: I thought the Museum of Fine Arts well worth the time -- perhaps even more so than the Guggenheim. Your call.
If you haven't already seen it, you might find some useful in the trip report I posted after my trip to the area last May -- just click on my name to find it.
Re: Bilbao: I thought the Museum of Fine Arts well worth the time -- perhaps even more so than the Guggenheim. Your call.
If you haven't already seen it, you might find some useful in the trip report I posted after my trip to the area last May -- just click on my name to find it.
Dec 9th, 2015, 10:25 PM
#7
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 8,827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
If you can fly into Bilbao or San Sebastián-Donostia, then you have the time to explore both the País Vasco and the Pays Basque and still be in Barcelona the night before your departure. Of course 4 or 5 weeks would be better, at least for a start.
Dec 9th, 2015, 11:34 PM
#8
Join Date: Apr 2006
Posts: 1,729
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Is the Hotel de Londres y Inglaterra outside your budget? Great historic hotel in great location in SS, I loved it. Where all the Brits stayed in the 19th & 20th centuries, I expect!
You can of course take a bus or train Bilbao to SS - www.euskotren.es for the little narrow gauge train or www.alsa.es for the bus.
Trains link SS with Barcelona morning and late afternoon, from €28 booked at www.renfe.com or www.loco2.com
I used the morning SS to BCN Alvia train myself earlier this year and it's a great modern train with cafe-bar & power sockets at all seats, through the hills onto the plain, then at high-speed from Zaragoza to Barcelona on the fast line, with great views of Montserrat as you approach BCN.
You can of course take a bus or train Bilbao to SS - www.euskotren.es for the little narrow gauge train or www.alsa.es for the bus.
Trains link SS with Barcelona morning and late afternoon, from €28 booked at www.renfe.com or www.loco2.com
I used the morning SS to BCN Alvia train myself earlier this year and it's a great modern train with cafe-bar & power sockets at all seats, through the hills onto the plain, then at high-speed from Zaragoza to Barcelona on the fast line, with great views of Montserrat as you approach BCN.
Dec 10th, 2015, 12:56 AM
#9
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Would very much recommend to stay in San Sebastian itself. http://www.euskoguide.com/places-bas...stian-tourism/
Hotel Londres is of course something very special: https://www.hlondres.com/en/historia-del-hotel
But from what you say and my some thirty stays here, I would recommend Hotel Niza: http://en.hotelniza.com/
or great value and fine hotel standard Hostal Alemana (private bath, A/C, TV, wifi, safe, 24h desk, breakfast etc), 50 meters from the beach and right behind Hotel Niza/Hotel Londres:
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/host...ana.en-gb.html
Or stay out in the wonderful Ondarreta district, right on the beach, and some 20 mins excellent walk along the La Concha beach promenade into the heart of town. We've stayed out here many times and enjoyed it very much.
Have stayed in quite basic and tranquile Chomin several times: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/chomin.en-gb.html
Hotel Ezeiza: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/ezeiza.en-gb.html
Hotel Galeria: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/la-galeria.en-gb.html
Hotel Londres is of course something very special: https://www.hlondres.com/en/historia-del-hotel
But from what you say and my some thirty stays here, I would recommend Hotel Niza: http://en.hotelniza.com/
or great value and fine hotel standard Hostal Alemana (private bath, A/C, TV, wifi, safe, 24h desk, breakfast etc), 50 meters from the beach and right behind Hotel Niza/Hotel Londres:
http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/host...ana.en-gb.html
Or stay out in the wonderful Ondarreta district, right on the beach, and some 20 mins excellent walk along the La Concha beach promenade into the heart of town. We've stayed out here many times and enjoyed it very much.
Have stayed in quite basic and tranquile Chomin several times: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/chomin.en-gb.html
Hotel Ezeiza: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/ezeiza.en-gb.html
Hotel Galeria: http://www.booking.com/hotel/es/la-galeria.en-gb.html
Dec 10th, 2015, 02:44 AM
#10
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
And last time in San Sebastian - a four day stay now in October - we used http://www.rentalscollection.com/en/
Everything just excellent, the apartment, the pick-up of keys, leaving etc., all very easy and convenient.
Everything just excellent, the apartment, the pick-up of keys, leaving etc., all very easy and convenient.
Dec 10th, 2015, 04:57 AM
#11
Thanks to all of you for your great comments! I'm looking into all of them.
HappyTvlr, was thinking of the Parador in Hondaribba…
would I miss a lot of the SS experience if we commuted from there?
kja, we would not rent the car until the following day to save $…
maninseat61, we could take the train from Bilbao and rent our car after SS if we stay near old town…although with luggage ( one large and one carry-on…gotta have those cruise clothes), I do hate getting on and off trains…I would at least want to drive to Barcelona to see the countryside and I"m big on stopping for photos. Yes, the Londres is 656E for the cheapest room…more than I want to pay for a city stop.
Robert….wish we had that much time to explore…but the cruise pretty much shoots our budget. And I do want two whole days in Barcelona since the last time we were there I had a fever and didn't get to appreciate the city enough….although I still dragged myself to see all the Gaudi!
kimhe, I'm going to check out all those hotels you list. I had ruled out the Hotel Niza because of the parking situation….but now I'm thinking maybe we rent the car after SS.
As an alternative to the train between Bilbao and SS…does anyone have the name of a driver we could hire to take us (and our luggage)? That would be best solution.
Still need comments on where to stay in the French Basque region…if we only stay 4 nights, how about 3 in St. Jean de Luz and one in St. Etienne de Baigorry at Hotel Arce (vs. Hotel Pyrenees in St. Jean Pied de Port). If St. Jean de Luz, where would you stay? I think Biarritz may be too busy for us.
HappyTvlr, was thinking of the Parador in Hondaribba…
would I miss a lot of the SS experience if we commuted from there?
kja, we would not rent the car until the following day to save $…
maninseat61, we could take the train from Bilbao and rent our car after SS if we stay near old town…although with luggage ( one large and one carry-on…gotta have those cruise clothes), I do hate getting on and off trains…I would at least want to drive to Barcelona to see the countryside and I"m big on stopping for photos. Yes, the Londres is 656E for the cheapest room…more than I want to pay for a city stop.
Robert….wish we had that much time to explore…but the cruise pretty much shoots our budget. And I do want two whole days in Barcelona since the last time we were there I had a fever and didn't get to appreciate the city enough….although I still dragged myself to see all the Gaudi!
kimhe, I'm going to check out all those hotels you list. I had ruled out the Hotel Niza because of the parking situation….but now I'm thinking maybe we rent the car after SS.
As an alternative to the train between Bilbao and SS…does anyone have the name of a driver we could hire to take us (and our luggage)? That would be best solution.
Still need comments on where to stay in the French Basque region…if we only stay 4 nights, how about 3 in St. Jean de Luz and one in St. Etienne de Baigorry at Hotel Arce (vs. Hotel Pyrenees in St. Jean Pied de Port). If St. Jean de Luz, where would you stay? I think Biarritz may be too busy for us.
Dec 10th, 2015, 05:14 AM
#12
kimhe….thanks so much for link to Eusk Guide….it's great! Helps me get a better idea through the photos of what's available.
HappyTvlr….after looking at Eusk Guide….now I MUST also stay in Hondarribia at the Parador….my kind of place!
Probably will have to sacrifice a night in French Basque down to 3 nights…or should I drop a night in Barcelona to 2 nights…..or should I drop the night in Bilbao and go right to SS from the airport?
Any thoughts which should be dropped?
HappyTvlr….after looking at Eusk Guide….now I MUST also stay in Hondarribia at the Parador….my kind of place!
Probably will have to sacrifice a night in French Basque down to 3 nights…or should I drop a night in Barcelona to 2 nights…..or should I drop the night in Bilbao and go right to SS from the airport?
Any thoughts which should be dropped?
Dec 10th, 2015, 06:13 AM
#14
Stayed in the parador in Hondarribia in 2004 - very nice and good views.
The most convenient base for the French Basque country is Bayonne, at least for public transport, but the hotel situation isn't very good. I would not use St. Jean Pied de Port as a base - out of the way and not much to do.
I chose not to visit Bilbao this trip, but I have given up on trying to appreciate most art after the surrealists, and I'm not a big fan of over the top modern architecture either. If you read my TR you know I didn't care for S.S. Under other circumstances I might have liked it better, but I suspect I would still prefer Biarritz.
I much prefer trains to buses, but if you have heavy luggage the bus would probably be easier.
I just spent four full days in Barcelona and had no trouble filling them - had wanted to visit Figueres for the Dali museum but ran out of time.
The most convenient base for the French Basque country is Bayonne, at least for public transport, but the hotel situation isn't very good. I would not use St. Jean Pied de Port as a base - out of the way and not much to do.
I chose not to visit Bilbao this trip, but I have given up on trying to appreciate most art after the surrealists, and I'm not a big fan of over the top modern architecture either. If you read my TR you know I didn't care for S.S. Under other circumstances I might have liked it better, but I suspect I would still prefer Biarritz.
I much prefer trains to buses, but if you have heavy luggage the bus would probably be easier.
I just spent four full days in Barcelona and had no trouble filling them - had wanted to visit Figueres for the Dali museum but ran out of time.
Dec 10th, 2015, 06:48 PM
#17
Join Date: Dec 2006
Posts: 23,117
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
"and deciding to skip Bilbao altogether since we really don't appreciate modern art."
Your call -- but as noted above, Bilbao's Museum of Fine Arts is quite good and is NOT devoted to modern art.
Your call -- but as noted above, Bilbao's Museum of Fine Arts is quite good and is NOT devoted to modern art.
Dec 10th, 2015, 10:22 PM
#18
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 8,827
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Bilbao is far more then a few museums! It's also great dining...
www.maribelsguides.com/mg_bilbao_2015.pdf
www.maribelsguides.com/mg_bilbao_2015.pdf
Dec 11th, 2015, 12:37 AM
#19
Join Date: Feb 2009
Posts: 5,934
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
When in San Sebastian, I recommend Casa Urola, my favourite restaurant in town since the late eighties. It was recently (August) voted best restaurant in all of Gipuzkoa by the major regional newspaper El Diario Vasco. You have of course all the Michelin star restaurants around here, but Casa Urola just represents the essence of the food culture up here; the meticulous preparation of great produce: http://www.casaurolajatetxea.es/en/portada/
http://www.casaurolajatetxea.es/es/b...a-2015_11.html
And the Urola pintxos bar on the ground floor is now one of the very best in town. Visited all days on our last trip in October: http://allaboutfoodmag.com/de_pintxos-en-casa-urola/
All about going for pintxos in San Sebastian: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php
http://www.casaurolajatetxea.es/es/b...a-2015_11.html
And the Urola pintxos bar on the ground floor is now one of the very best in town. Visited all days on our last trip in October: http://allaboutfoodmag.com/de_pintxos-en-casa-urola/
All about going for pintxos in San Sebastian: http://www.todopintxos.com/home/home.php
Dec 11th, 2015, 04:05 AM
#20
If time was more generous I'd include Bilbao…but I really hate "one nighters" when traveling…so would rather add the day to SS.
I will add Casa Urola to the top of my dining list! Thanks for the links…
and Robert, thanks for letting me know about the Maribel guides…I was clueless. Have now printed out the Pays Basque, San Sebastian, Hondarribia & Basque Country and Barcelona guides….a wealth of information.
I was dismayed to see the prices for private transfer service from Bilbao airport to SS…exorbitant. Guess we'll have to take the bus. We've been traveling in Asia the last few trips and I'd forgotten how much more expensive things are in Europe! If anyone has used an individual, rather than a company, for transfer, please let me know.
Also, if you can suggest a scenic stop on the drive from St. Jean de Pied Port (we won't stay there but probably cut across the border there) to Barcelona, please let me know. if we don't stop, could you tell me what to expect the actual drive time to be on a Friday in mid-September?
Thanks again for all your help!
I will add Casa Urola to the top of my dining list! Thanks for the links…
and Robert, thanks for letting me know about the Maribel guides…I was clueless. Have now printed out the Pays Basque, San Sebastian, Hondarribia & Basque Country and Barcelona guides….a wealth of information.
I was dismayed to see the prices for private transfer service from Bilbao airport to SS…exorbitant. Guess we'll have to take the bus. We've been traveling in Asia the last few trips and I'd forgotten how much more expensive things are in Europe! If anyone has used an individual, rather than a company, for transfer, please let me know.
Also, if you can suggest a scenic stop on the drive from St. Jean de Pied Port (we won't stay there but probably cut across the border there) to Barcelona, please let me know. if we don't stop, could you tell me what to expect the actual drive time to be on a Friday in mid-September?
Thanks again for all your help!
