Southwest France
Jan 17th, 2016, 08:56 AM
#1
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Southwest France
My wife and I are in the preliminary stage of planning a trip to France. What we know at the moment is we will fly into Paris, from there, likely catch a train to Bordeaux and from there the trip is a blank slate.
We have toyed with the idea of a few days in Bordeaux and the local vineyards, then a circular route through the Dordogne, making our way, perhaps, as far south as Narbonne, then a lazy drive through the Haute Pyrenees to the Atlantic, and back to Bordeaux to drop off the care and catch the train to Paris.
The trip would last just over 3 weeks. Any suggestions on must see places (we do plan to see Lascaux II), places to stay for 2-3 days, and even places to miss? The trip would begin in late June and end in mid-July.
We are "seasoned" travelers in our 60s, and I'm fluent in 3 words of French (LOL).
Thanks, in advance, for your kind suggestions.
We have toyed with the idea of a few days in Bordeaux and the local vineyards, then a circular route through the Dordogne, making our way, perhaps, as far south as Narbonne, then a lazy drive through the Haute Pyrenees to the Atlantic, and back to Bordeaux to drop off the care and catch the train to Paris.
The trip would last just over 3 weeks. Any suggestions on must see places (we do plan to see Lascaux II), places to stay for 2-3 days, and even places to miss? The trip would begin in late June and end in mid-July.
We are "seasoned" travelers in our 60s, and I'm fluent in 3 words of French (LOL).
Thanks, in advance, for your kind suggestions.
Jan 17th, 2016, 09:16 AM
#2
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
IMO that is an AWFUL lot to chew off in 3 weeks. A few days in Bordeaux is great - it's one of France's most exciting cities now. A week in the Dordogne would give you a chance just to see, quickly, the highlights (there is a LOT more to do there besides Lascaux II - and Lascaux IV will be there by the time you get there).
You could spend weeks in the Languedoc, too. Why have you chosen Narbonne? Between the Dordogne and the Languedoc Med towns, there are countless fascinating things to see - even in the Lot/Quercy, before you even get near to the Med.
I would dump the Languedoc or the Haute-Pyrenées right off the bat and narrow it down to Bordeaux and two other venues. And consider flying open-jaw - there's no particularly great reason to go back to Bordeaux.
Also keep in mind that beginning the first week of July, a lot of these places will be jammed, accommodations will need to be booked far in advance (especially if you're going to rent an apartment or house) and will be expensive, and traffic will be an obstacle.
You could spend weeks in the Languedoc, too. Why have you chosen Narbonne? Between the Dordogne and the Languedoc Med towns, there are countless fascinating things to see - even in the Lot/Quercy, before you even get near to the Med.
I would dump the Languedoc or the Haute-Pyrenées right off the bat and narrow it down to Bordeaux and two other venues. And consider flying open-jaw - there's no particularly great reason to go back to Bordeaux.
Also keep in mind that beginning the first week of July, a lot of these places will be jammed, accommodations will need to be booked far in advance (especially if you're going to rent an apartment or house) and will be expensive, and traffic will be an obstacle.
Jan 17th, 2016, 09:28 AM
#3
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 34,858
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't think it's so much to do in 3 weeks, I think that's a lot of time. I would never spend 3 weeks in just 3 places, but I like to make more of my time when I can travel abroad as neither funds nor vacation time is unlimited. So I think it's a very reasonable plan.
I really liked Narbonne, but I presume you know the usual suspects on that general route to see -- like Carcassonne (not to spend 2-3 days there, but to visit), Toulouse and Albi. Definitely spend several days in Toulouse.
I haven't driven through the Pyrenees so can't advise on that. But going all the way to Narbonne is inconvenient if you intend to go there and back to Bordeaux, it would make sense if you planned to then go east and end up in Montpellier or something. So given your itinerary, I'd probably cut it off at Toulouse and then return via the A64 if you want to go through the Hautes-Pyrenees.
I really liked Narbonne, but I presume you know the usual suspects on that general route to see -- like Carcassonne (not to spend 2-3 days there, but to visit), Toulouse and Albi. Definitely spend several days in Toulouse.
I haven't driven through the Pyrenees so can't advise on that. But going all the way to Narbonne is inconvenient if you intend to go there and back to Bordeaux, it would make sense if you planned to then go east and end up in Montpellier or something. So given your itinerary, I'd probably cut it off at Toulouse and then return via the A64 if you want to go through the Hautes-Pyrenees.
Jan 17th, 2016, 01:12 PM
#4
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 22,986
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Things to see in the Pyrénées:
drive from Narbonne to La Tour de Carol.
St. Bertrand de Comminges
Col de Tourmalet
Cirque de Gavarnie
Funicular and little train to the lac d'Artouste (Pic du Midi de Bigorre)
Browsing through these albums might give you some more ideas:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...5043/show?rb=1
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...1445/show?rb=1
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...5948/show?rb=1
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...6289/show?rb=1
I also wrote a trip report on travels from Bordeaux through Aquitaine (actually Basque country for the most part); click on my name to find it.
drive from Narbonne to La Tour de Carol.
St. Bertrand de Comminges
Col de Tourmalet
Cirque de Gavarnie
Funicular and little train to the lac d'Artouste (Pic du Midi de Bigorre)
Browsing through these albums might give you some more ideas:
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...5043/show?rb=1
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...1445/show?rb=1
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...5948/show?rb=1
https://www.flickr.com/photos/mksfca...6289/show?rb=1
I also wrote a trip report on travels from Bordeaux through Aquitaine (actually Basque country for the most part); click on my name to find it.
Jan 17th, 2016, 01:15 PM
#5
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Great suggestions. StCirq, we are going for a "taste of the southwest" and have no more than rough ideas ow what to see. It does seem like a lot to take on. The idea of flying open-jaw is appealing. Strangely, it was my travel style of preference in the 80's, but I do remember struggling to find rooms at the last minute. We enjoy exploring from a central location, but sometimes distances get in the way. A short stop in Bordeaux, with more time in the Dordogne are at the tope of the list, Albi (I always liked the Albigensians) and Carcassonne, are on the list. Christina, we may drop Nabonne for this trip, but the Pyrenees have the appeal of mountains and, from what I have read, an escape from some of the crowds and the heat we expect in June/July.
If we don't return to Bordeaux, what is the logical place to drop off the car and catch the train back to Paris/CDG?
If we don't return to Bordeaux, what is the logical place to drop off the car and catch the train back to Paris/CDG?
Jan 17th, 2016, 01:21 PM
#6
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Renaud, as you've clearly noted, I wasn't talking about 3 "places," but 3 entire areas - well, 4 in your OP (Bordeaux, Dordogne, Languedoc, and the Pyrenées). That, IMO, is a lot of territory.
You need to get hold of the MIchelin Green Guides for these areas, for starters. Then maybe Cadogan Guides and Blue Guides - I'm just mentioning some of my favorites.
You could drop the car in any number of places: in the Dordogne it could be Brive or Bergerac or Périgueux; in the Languedoc probably the easiest would be Toulouse or Montpellier; in the Pyrenées, which I'm less familiar with, I'm guessing Pau or Tarbes might be possibilities.
You need to get hold of the MIchelin Green Guides for these areas, for starters. Then maybe Cadogan Guides and Blue Guides - I'm just mentioning some of my favorites.
You could drop the car in any number of places: in the Dordogne it could be Brive or Bergerac or Périgueux; in the Languedoc probably the easiest would be Toulouse or Montpellier; in the Pyrenées, which I'm less familiar with, I'm guessing Pau or Tarbes might be possibilities.
Jan 17th, 2016, 01:37 PM
#7
Join Date: Mar 2008
Posts: 6,629
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Agree with StCirq, these are large regions. Depends on how much time you want to spend driving.
A circular route is a good idea but I would probably make Albi the most eastern point, then west to Carcassonne, Toulouse and down to the Pyrénées then back up to Bordeaux.
What time of year are you traveling? Some of the places I'd like to recommend are seasonal.
A circular route is a good idea but I would probably make Albi the most eastern point, then west to Carcassonne, Toulouse and down to the Pyrénées then back up to Bordeaux.
What time of year are you traveling? Some of the places I'd like to recommend are seasonal.
Jan 17th, 2016, 02:00 PM
#8
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We've spent 7 weeks vacationing in the Pyrenees, 10 weeks in the Dordogne, and 10 weeks in the Languedoc.
This is how I would organize your trip:
- Land at Bordeaux and spend 2-3 nights there. From everything I've read - the vineyards area is not that great - except for the Sauternes region (we spent 4 nights there).
- Drive to towards the Dordogne, visit St Emilion along the way, and spend 6 nights in the Dordogne.
- Head east and spend 2 nights near Rocamadour. On the way to Rocamadour, visit Turenne, Collonges la Rouge, Martel, Carennac, Autoure, Loubressac, and finally St Cere. Next day visit Rocamadour, any of the above villages you missed the prior day, plus Gouffre de Padirac.
- Head south and stay in St Cirq Lapopie for 2 nights. Visit Pech Merle cave (reserve in advance), St Cirq Lapopie, and drive east along the beautiful Cele River (visiting many villages on the way), and then visit Figeac. Spend a couple of hours in Figeac (get the walking itinerary at the TI). Return to St Cirq Lapopie along the Lot River. Cahors is not one of our favorites (we stayed near there for 2 weeks in 2013). But they have a great Wed & Sat market.
- Head south on the A20 then west on the A64 into the Pyrenees and stay 5-6 nights near Cauterets. The following is from my Pays Basque itinerary. We stayed in this region for 2 weeks.
Get off the A64 at Exit #16 and take the D924A to the interesting village of Arreau. Explore Arreau, and if it is time for lunch - have lunch there by the river (but remember about the clouds in the afternoon). Next, drive west on the D918 over the Col d'Aspin***. At the Col (highest point on the road), get out of the car and wander around & admire the scenery and grazing horses, cattle, and sheep. Remember - much of the Pyrenees is "free-grazing" and the animals have the right-of-way. You might encounter a cow sleeping on the road you are trying to drive on, or even a troupeau (herd) of sheep "blocking" the entire road. You'll have to be patient until the troupeaux travel off the road, before you can get by. The horses can get a little rambunctious - so don't approach them. We saw a tourist trying to get close to a horse, and the horse clearly didn't like it at all!!!
At Ste Marie de Campan in the summer you'll see displays of hay-stuffed costumed life-size "dolls" portraying "daily life" - a potter, two people sitting at a cafe, and other similar scenes. Drive through Ste Marie slowly. Then take the D918 west over the famous Col du Tourmalet**. If you follow the Tour de France at all - you will be familiar with this col. When you actually reach the col, get out of the car, admire the views, cows, sheep & horses. Have your picture taken under the statue of the bike rider "huffing & puffing" his way up the col. There will probably be many other people/bikers hanging around the col. Perhaps ask one of them if you can borrow their bike & have them take a picture of you under the statue. We did this (corny as it sounds).
Now descend the Col du Tourmalet and drive north on the D921 through the scenic Gorge de Luz to your hotel.
We dined at two very nice restaurants, which are also hotels in the Vercos mountain region in the Pyrenees. They are close to each other - both just south of Argeles Gazost. The first one is La Grange aux Marmottes in Viscos (population 44). www.grangeauxmarmottes.com . The second one is Les Viscos in St Savin (population 372). www.hotel-leviscos.com .
On this day or the next morning, visit the fabulous Pont d'Espagne*** - which is a short drive from your hotel. It is just south of Cauterets* - which is a charming "Belle Epoque" alpine town. Though Cauterets is less of a tourist mecca than it was in times past, you can still see and appreciate its "glory days" and many of the grand old hotels have been converted into apartments. Get to the Pont d'Espagne by driving through the Val de Jeret**. You can read about the Pont d'Espagne in the Michelin Green Guide for the Languedoc - but there really is no "trick" to visiting this spot. Just drive there, wander around and admire the scenery, the convergence of two rivers, and the rushing waters. The force of the raging waters is remarkable - quite deafening when you are close by. Go up the ski lift to the mountain lake, and perhaps have lunch or a drink at the restaurant by the lake. The Pont d'Espagne is a "don't miss" in this region. Between Cauterets and the Pont d'Espagne, you'll pass one of our favorite restaurants in the region - L'Abri du Benques. There is a magnificent water cascade next to the restaurant - you'll hear it before you spot it.
Head towards Argeles-Gazost and then take the D918 over the Col du Soulor and then over the fabulous Col d'Aubisque**. We drove over this col 4-5 times while we stayed in a gite in Gaillagos. It is very scenic - perhaps our favorite. At the end of the col, you will arrive in Eaux-Bonnes. My wife loved the "old" hotels in this spa town. Continue on to Laruns.
Now for a gondola & train trip into the Pyrenees. From Laruns, take the D934 south. When you get to the smaller D431, take it north to the Gondola starting place. Take the Gondola, and then the very scenic train to La Sagette. The most scenic views are from the left side of the train going up. At the termination of the train trip, you have the option of walking to Lac d’Ayous, but we did not take this trek – most people on the train did not either. This entire gondola/train trip will probably consume 3-4 hours, but it is well worth it.
From Laruns, head north on the D934, If you want to stretch your legs - Bielle* is a nice visit. Then head west on the very pretty D294. If you have an extra 1 1/2 hrs to spare, take the N134 south toward Lescun* for a visit. There is a marvelous walking path above town (look for the dirt road before you get to town). This path has restful, magnificent views. We took a break along this path, sat on a bench, & simply "took in" the scenery.
- After the Pyrenees, head towards Toulouse and stay in the beautiful city of Albi*** for 1-2 nights. This is one of our favorite small cities in France. Get out the Red Guide to find your way into central Albi. You will enter at #6 and follow the road south across the bridge. From this bridge, there is a fabulous view of Albi. Just after crossing the bridge, you are in the old section of town. Look for the underground parking lot (it’s huge), and park there. Emerge from the lot, and retrace your route to take some pictures of Albi from the bridge. Albi closes up tight at lunchtime - except (June through Sept) for the fabulous Cathedral Ste Cecile***. My Green Guide says that the Toulouse Lautrec Museum** is closed for lunch (except July & Aug), but I’m not sure that’s the case. Perhaps call ahead (number is in the GG) to confirm opening times. Toulouse Lautrec is one of the few artists that I like (particularly the "poster art" for which he is probably best known), and I really enjoyed this museum. It’s located in the Palais de la Berbie*+. Don’t miss the formal gardens outside the palais. Albi is an interesting town to just wander in. There are informational plaques (also in English) affixed to the outsides of buildings. They describe the architecture & related historically significant events. Many of the old buildings had fallen into disrepair and had been slated for demolition in the 1970s. Instead, the City had refurbished them & they now provide “social” (low- income?) housing. In addition to viewing Albi from the Pont du 22 Aout 1944 (the bridge by which you drove into Albi), view it from the old Pont Vieux. To get the absolute best view of Albi from a distance (and from where the picture in the Green Guide was probably taken), go all the way across the Pont Vieux bridge, and then start taking all the streets to the left that you possibly can. You won't be walking on any major roads - just streets that access houses. Keep walking farther than you think you should, until you hit a large wall at a dead-end. You'll see this view when you get there.
- After Albi, stay in Toulouse*** for 2 nights. This, along with Dijon, is our second favorite large citiy in France - after Paris.
Fly home from Toulouse.
Stu Dudley
This is how I would organize your trip:
- Land at Bordeaux and spend 2-3 nights there. From everything I've read - the vineyards area is not that great - except for the Sauternes region (we spent 4 nights there).
- Drive to towards the Dordogne, visit St Emilion along the way, and spend 6 nights in the Dordogne.
- Head east and spend 2 nights near Rocamadour. On the way to Rocamadour, visit Turenne, Collonges la Rouge, Martel, Carennac, Autoure, Loubressac, and finally St Cere. Next day visit Rocamadour, any of the above villages you missed the prior day, plus Gouffre de Padirac.
- Head south and stay in St Cirq Lapopie for 2 nights. Visit Pech Merle cave (reserve in advance), St Cirq Lapopie, and drive east along the beautiful Cele River (visiting many villages on the way), and then visit Figeac. Spend a couple of hours in Figeac (get the walking itinerary at the TI). Return to St Cirq Lapopie along the Lot River. Cahors is not one of our favorites (we stayed near there for 2 weeks in 2013). But they have a great Wed & Sat market.
- Head south on the A20 then west on the A64 into the Pyrenees and stay 5-6 nights near Cauterets. The following is from my Pays Basque itinerary. We stayed in this region for 2 weeks.
Get off the A64 at Exit #16 and take the D924A to the interesting village of Arreau. Explore Arreau, and if it is time for lunch - have lunch there by the river (but remember about the clouds in the afternoon). Next, drive west on the D918 over the Col d'Aspin***. At the Col (highest point on the road), get out of the car and wander around & admire the scenery and grazing horses, cattle, and sheep. Remember - much of the Pyrenees is "free-grazing" and the animals have the right-of-way. You might encounter a cow sleeping on the road you are trying to drive on, or even a troupeau (herd) of sheep "blocking" the entire road. You'll have to be patient until the troupeaux travel off the road, before you can get by. The horses can get a little rambunctious - so don't approach them. We saw a tourist trying to get close to a horse, and the horse clearly didn't like it at all!!!
At Ste Marie de Campan in the summer you'll see displays of hay-stuffed costumed life-size "dolls" portraying "daily life" - a potter, two people sitting at a cafe, and other similar scenes. Drive through Ste Marie slowly. Then take the D918 west over the famous Col du Tourmalet**. If you follow the Tour de France at all - you will be familiar with this col. When you actually reach the col, get out of the car, admire the views, cows, sheep & horses. Have your picture taken under the statue of the bike rider "huffing & puffing" his way up the col. There will probably be many other people/bikers hanging around the col. Perhaps ask one of them if you can borrow their bike & have them take a picture of you under the statue. We did this (corny as it sounds).
Now descend the Col du Tourmalet and drive north on the D921 through the scenic Gorge de Luz to your hotel.
We dined at two very nice restaurants, which are also hotels in the Vercos mountain region in the Pyrenees. They are close to each other - both just south of Argeles Gazost. The first one is La Grange aux Marmottes in Viscos (population 44). www.grangeauxmarmottes.com . The second one is Les Viscos in St Savin (population 372). www.hotel-leviscos.com .
On this day or the next morning, visit the fabulous Pont d'Espagne*** - which is a short drive from your hotel. It is just south of Cauterets* - which is a charming "Belle Epoque" alpine town. Though Cauterets is less of a tourist mecca than it was in times past, you can still see and appreciate its "glory days" and many of the grand old hotels have been converted into apartments. Get to the Pont d'Espagne by driving through the Val de Jeret**. You can read about the Pont d'Espagne in the Michelin Green Guide for the Languedoc - but there really is no "trick" to visiting this spot. Just drive there, wander around and admire the scenery, the convergence of two rivers, and the rushing waters. The force of the raging waters is remarkable - quite deafening when you are close by. Go up the ski lift to the mountain lake, and perhaps have lunch or a drink at the restaurant by the lake. The Pont d'Espagne is a "don't miss" in this region. Between Cauterets and the Pont d'Espagne, you'll pass one of our favorite restaurants in the region - L'Abri du Benques. There is a magnificent water cascade next to the restaurant - you'll hear it before you spot it.
Head towards Argeles-Gazost and then take the D918 over the Col du Soulor and then over the fabulous Col d'Aubisque**. We drove over this col 4-5 times while we stayed in a gite in Gaillagos. It is very scenic - perhaps our favorite. At the end of the col, you will arrive in Eaux-Bonnes. My wife loved the "old" hotels in this spa town. Continue on to Laruns.
Now for a gondola & train trip into the Pyrenees. From Laruns, take the D934 south. When you get to the smaller D431, take it north to the Gondola starting place. Take the Gondola, and then the very scenic train to La Sagette. The most scenic views are from the left side of the train going up. At the termination of the train trip, you have the option of walking to Lac d’Ayous, but we did not take this trek – most people on the train did not either. This entire gondola/train trip will probably consume 3-4 hours, but it is well worth it.
From Laruns, head north on the D934, If you want to stretch your legs - Bielle* is a nice visit. Then head west on the very pretty D294. If you have an extra 1 1/2 hrs to spare, take the N134 south toward Lescun* for a visit. There is a marvelous walking path above town (look for the dirt road before you get to town). This path has restful, magnificent views. We took a break along this path, sat on a bench, & simply "took in" the scenery.
- After the Pyrenees, head towards Toulouse and stay in the beautiful city of Albi*** for 1-2 nights. This is one of our favorite small cities in France. Get out the Red Guide to find your way into central Albi. You will enter at #6 and follow the road south across the bridge. From this bridge, there is a fabulous view of Albi. Just after crossing the bridge, you are in the old section of town. Look for the underground parking lot (it’s huge), and park there. Emerge from the lot, and retrace your route to take some pictures of Albi from the bridge. Albi closes up tight at lunchtime - except (June through Sept) for the fabulous Cathedral Ste Cecile***. My Green Guide says that the Toulouse Lautrec Museum** is closed for lunch (except July & Aug), but I’m not sure that’s the case. Perhaps call ahead (number is in the GG) to confirm opening times. Toulouse Lautrec is one of the few artists that I like (particularly the "poster art" for which he is probably best known), and I really enjoyed this museum. It’s located in the Palais de la Berbie*+. Don’t miss the formal gardens outside the palais. Albi is an interesting town to just wander in. There are informational plaques (also in English) affixed to the outsides of buildings. They describe the architecture & related historically significant events. Many of the old buildings had fallen into disrepair and had been slated for demolition in the 1970s. Instead, the City had refurbished them & they now provide “social” (low- income?) housing. In addition to viewing Albi from the Pont du 22 Aout 1944 (the bridge by which you drove into Albi), view it from the old Pont Vieux. To get the absolute best view of Albi from a distance (and from where the picture in the Green Guide was probably taken), go all the way across the Pont Vieux bridge, and then start taking all the streets to the left that you possibly can. You won't be walking on any major roads - just streets that access houses. Keep walking farther than you think you should, until you hit a large wall at a dead-end. You'll see this view when you get there.
- After Albi, stay in Toulouse*** for 2 nights. This, along with Dijon, is our second favorite large citiy in France - after Paris.
Fly home from Toulouse.
Stu Dudley
Jan 17th, 2016, 02:16 PM
#9
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I wouldn't stay in St-Cirq-Lapopie for 2 nights, or any nights. I'd stay at the lovely Moulin in Cabrerets and visit Pech-Merle and do a drive-through St-Cirq-Lapopie, a place that is way overestimated IMO, apart from its stunning topography, which can be found many places in the region.
I would not miss Albi, or Toulouse, or Figeac.
I would not miss Albi, or Toulouse, or Figeac.
Jan 17th, 2016, 03:39 PM
#10
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
How do you drive through St Cirq Lapopie? It's almost all "pedestrian only"!! Where are those many other places with similarly stunning topography? We'll be nearby for 3 weeks this Sept. We didn't see any as stunning as St Cirq when we were there for 2 weeks in 2012. Domme is certainly as stunning - but that's just one. Cordes & Conques are interesting - but I think St Cirq is "better", and Cordes & Conques are not overlooking a river like St Cirq & Domme.
St Cirq gets a 2 star rating from Michelin - which the same as Domme. St Cirq was awarded "best village of the year" by some "official" French agency about 3 years ago.
Stu Dudley
St Cirq gets a 2 star rating from Michelin - which the same as Domme. St Cirq was awarded "best village of the year" by some "official" French agency about 3 years ago.
Stu Dudley
Jan 18th, 2016, 02:13 AM
#12
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I don't like Rocamadour, either. Or Domme. If you approach St-Cirq-Lapopie from the south on the D roads, there is scenery every bit as captivating as in St-Cirq itself, without all the shop clutter. You enter town, drive up to the left of the main road to the parking lot, then out the other side toward Cabrerets - perfectly possible to drive through it unless they've blocked off that road. Of course, if your interest lies in the main street/shopping street, you can't park there and can't drive up it.
I know about St-Cirq's rating a couple of years ago by the Plus Beaux Villages de France people. It takes some understanding of the politics of how things get rated in France to get past the labels, though it is primarily a popularity contest...and among French tourists. There are fascinating spa towns, for example, hidden in the same valley that St-Cirq overlooks, that are far more interesting to me, but they don't show up on the Plus Beaux Villages and other similar radars because few people other than the antique car rally folks know where they are.
A bit out of the way, but I find Castres more interesting than any towns around St-Cirq-Lapopie.
I know about St-Cirq's rating a couple of years ago by the Plus Beaux Villages de France people. It takes some understanding of the politics of how things get rated in France to get past the labels, though it is primarily a popularity contest...and among French tourists. There are fascinating spa towns, for example, hidden in the same valley that St-Cirq overlooks, that are far more interesting to me, but they don't show up on the Plus Beaux Villages and other similar radars because few people other than the antique car rally folks know where they are.
A bit out of the way, but I find Castres more interesting than any towns around St-Cirq-Lapopie.
Jan 18th, 2016, 07:00 AM
#13
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We were in Castres for a day last June & were underwhelmed by it. It kinda seemed "dead" to us. Castres is also a rather large town - with a population of 42,000 vs 218 for St Cirq Lapopie. We certainly enjoy spending time in Figeac (close to St Cirq - population 10,000) more than Castres.
Here is my wife's Shutterfly book from our 2013 trip to the Gers, Lot, and dept of the Loire (not the Loire valley where the "big" chateaux are located). We were in the Gers & Lot area in late June. We visited St Cirq Lapopie around noon - I had lunch while my wife took pictures. Since the last time we visited St Cirq in around 2005, they have "cleaned up" the town quite a bit - removing all the outdoor postcard & trinket stands, and they encouraged more local artisans to sell their wares instead of getting mass-produced stuff from elsewhere to sell. Maybe that's why they were awarded "village of the year" honors. St Cirq pictures are on Pg 48 & 49, and Figeac on 62-64.
Click "full screen". Because of Shutterfly software problems, titles & captions are often truncated or missing.
https://stududley.shutterfly.com/30
Stu Dudley
Here is my wife's Shutterfly book from our 2013 trip to the Gers, Lot, and dept of the Loire (not the Loire valley where the "big" chateaux are located). We were in the Gers & Lot area in late June. We visited St Cirq Lapopie around noon - I had lunch while my wife took pictures. Since the last time we visited St Cirq in around 2005, they have "cleaned up" the town quite a bit - removing all the outdoor postcard & trinket stands, and they encouraged more local artisans to sell their wares instead of getting mass-produced stuff from elsewhere to sell. Maybe that's why they were awarded "village of the year" honors. St Cirq pictures are on Pg 48 & 49, and Figeac on 62-64.
Click "full screen". Because of Shutterfly software problems, titles & captions are often truncated or missing.
https://stududley.shutterfly.com/30
Stu Dudley
Jan 18th, 2016, 07:09 AM
#14
Join Date: Jan 2016
Posts: 2,585
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
I would not miss Albi, or Toulouse, or Figeac.
Albi : did I go there ? on a crusade ?
Toulouse : not bad, and excellent Cassoulet.
Figeac : excellent wine (La grave Figeac, depleted was one of my fav).
Rocamadour is super touristy but fine once.
'My lover is gone to the grottoes of Rocamadour.. 1988, typical french (very) popular song.
http://www.jukebox.fr/gerard-blancha...our,vm8qk.html
Albi : did I go there ? on a crusade ?
Toulouse : not bad, and excellent Cassoulet.
Figeac : excellent wine (La grave Figeac, depleted was one of my fav).
Rocamadour is super touristy but fine once.
'My lover is gone to the grottoes of Rocamadour.. 1988, typical french (very) popular song.
http://www.jukebox.fr/gerard-blancha...our,vm8qk.html
Jan 18th, 2016, 07:50 AM
#15
Join Date: Mar 2003
Posts: 22,986
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
<i> St Cirq was awarded "best village of the year" by some "official" French agency about 3 years ago.</i>
If it's a rating given by <i>les plus beaux villages</i> organization, it should be understood that this is a private organization started by the mayor of Collonges-la-Rouge, and is not "official" in the sense of being a government approval.
If it's a rating given by <i>les plus beaux villages</i> organization, it should be understood that this is a private organization started by the mayor of Collonges-la-Rouge, and is not "official" in the sense of being a government approval.
Jan 21st, 2016, 10:32 AM
#16
Original Poster
Join Date: Oct 2011
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Wonderful suggestions, everyone, and after seeing Stu's pictures St. Cirq Lappopie moved higher on our list. Based on the comments, we decided not to go as far south as Narbonne, and perhaps not even go as far south as Carcassonne (what we miss this year we can see next year). We have been able to add a few days to the trip making the "big circle" easier, and pleasing my wife's desire for more geological wonders.
Thanks to all for the extraordinary suggestions!
Thanks to all for the extraordinary suggestions!
Jan 21st, 2016, 11:25 AM
#18
Join Date: Nov 2004
Posts: 16,434
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
We are architecture buffs - and Toulouse is a magnificent "rose colored" city. See this "write-up:
http://www.francetoday.com/articles/...e-en-rose.html
Toulouse also has many interesting cathedrals, a great Les Halles food market, lively Place du Capitole, and some very interesting shops. Other than Paris - we've never walked around so much in a French city just "admiring" stuff. We were there once on a cold/rainy Saturday night in early October, and the downtown area was alive with people roaming around, enjoying the evening, and dining at the many restaurants.
We've stayed twice at the Mermoz, and once at le President - both near the train station where we either had to pick up a car or return one. This coming late August, we have reservations for 2 nights at the Grand Hotel de l'Opera on Pl du Capitole.
We dined at Christian Constant's "historic" restaurant the last time we were in Toulouse about 2012.
http://www.francetoday.com/articles/...le_bibent.html
We've dined at Emile twice - once outside & another time inside - great cassoulet. We also dined near the airport when we had to stay there for a very early flight - Michelin 1 star, which is now a 2 star - l'Amphitryon.
Stu Dudley
http://www.francetoday.com/articles/...e-en-rose.html
Toulouse also has many interesting cathedrals, a great Les Halles food market, lively Place du Capitole, and some very interesting shops. Other than Paris - we've never walked around so much in a French city just "admiring" stuff. We were there once on a cold/rainy Saturday night in early October, and the downtown area was alive with people roaming around, enjoying the evening, and dining at the many restaurants.
We've stayed twice at the Mermoz, and once at le President - both near the train station where we either had to pick up a car or return one. This coming late August, we have reservations for 2 nights at the Grand Hotel de l'Opera on Pl du Capitole.
We dined at Christian Constant's "historic" restaurant the last time we were in Toulouse about 2012.
http://www.francetoday.com/articles/...le_bibent.html
We've dined at Emile twice - once outside & another time inside - great cassoulet. We also dined near the airport when we had to stay there for a very early flight - Michelin 1 star, which is now a 2 star - l'Amphitryon.
Stu Dudley
Jan 21st, 2016, 12:18 PM
#20
Join Date: Jan 2003
Posts: 49,560
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Toulouse, like every other French city that has a bishopric, has one cathedral only - St-Etienne. It has a few churches besides. They are not cathedrals. There is a difference, huge if you're Catholic.
It's a wonderful, vibrant, beautiful city.
It's a wonderful, vibrant, beautiful city.
