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Southern Spain - What to SEE, what to BUY - what NOT to miss

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My husband and I will spend 2 weeks in Southern Spain in October. We'll be in Madrid (2nd trip), Toledo, Cordoba, Seville and Granada.
I'm always interested in restaurants. We don't like fancy...we like neighborhood. Also, I would like to know what to look for in terms of buying souveniers, art, artisan items. What are your top restaurant recommendations for each as well as what to buy while there. What should we NOT miss?

Thanks!

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