Ischia is a very good solution and Sperlonga, also.
In Ischia I suggest you the small town named FORIO.
A very good place to sleep and to dine could be the D&B IL VITIGNO (www.agriturismoilvitigno.it).
Do not miss it. IMO it is one of the best places to enjoy Ischia at the best.
If you want also further suggestions for delicious dinners in the island, I can do it.
Sperlonga is very nice and not only for the beachs but also because at short distance you have delicious hill small towns where to dine is delicious.
My advice in Sperlonga is VILLA PRATO, a very cute place, unforgettable (www.agriturismovillaprato.it).
The surrounding area of Sperlonga is a treasure of fine places and excellent olive oil and aged cheeses, and mozzarella also.

Ciao.

Vincenzo

We stayed a week at an agriturismo in Piano di Sorrento and spent one of our days exploring the Peninsula including a long hike out to the Punta Campanella. I could almost skip a stone out to the Isle of Capri from there.

The area was pleasant but not as spectacular as the rest of the AC - it was nice to get away from the tourist bustle there. I wouldn't recommend staying an entire week if your plans do not include the rest of the AC, Capri, Pompeii, Vesuvius, etc.

Excellent information..many thanks!

Both Ischia and Sperlonga sound very tempting. Both appear to have pros and cons. I think one negative of Ischia for us is the relative difficulty of access and the probability that we will not be able to have a car on the island since we can only drive automatics..(shame one me!)

To reach Sperlonga,we could rent a car at the airport and use it for daytrips. But are there enough daytrips in the area to keep us relatively busy, Vicenzo?? Which of the hill towns would you recommend?

I hope to read more opinions..perhaps the Sorrento area should be eliminated from the mix..

Hi ekscrunchy,

since i lust to go to Sperlonga and Gaeta, but have never been (likewise Ischia), I'm mainly going to stay out of this thread. But I do think you can find a way to get there with public transportation, and even have a marvelous adventure doing so. Romans use public transport to get there all the time. What the infrustructure is for day trips say, from Gaeta, I don't know, but if you weren't bored in Amalfi with the limited day trip options, I can't imagine you'll be bored in the province of Latina, which is rich is antiquity and history right up to WWII, almost anywhere you turn.

Of course I love the Costa Brava, especially glorious Calella da Palafrugell, but I would very much want a car there, unless I based myself in Girona or Barcelona and day tripped from there.

Some links you might find useful:

http://www.italy-weekly-rentals.com/WEBPAGES/ACCESSORI/TOTHESOUTH/Gaeta.htm

http://www.expatexchange.com/lib_rd.cfm?articleID=2697&networkid=58

http://www.virtualtourist.com/travel/Europe/Italy/Lazio/Gaeta-150705/Transportation-Gaeta-BR-1.html


http://www.secretdestinations.com/cataluna-costa-brava-calella-de-palafrugell.html

http://www.finquesfrigola.com/webcam.htm

http://www.trekearth.com/gallery/Europe/Spain/Catalonia/Girona/Calella_de_Palafrugell/

and this is a great link

http://www.travelblog.org/Europe/Italy/Lazio/blog-260909.html

My guess -- but it's only a guess -- is that the bus system in Latium is at least as good as the one in Campania.

Thanks very much, Zeppole!!

In re-reading my original post, I see that I was less than clear.

If we chose Sperlonga/Gaeta, we would definitely rent a car. But logistics might dictate that we would not be able to do so on Ischia and thus, I am wondering about the bus allowing us to fully explore. You do bring up a good point about Amalfi; I would say that we were fine using the combination of bus and, on two days, private driver. So perhaps the situation would be similar on Ischia..

Many thanks for the links!! I see that I am not going to be able to tear myself away from here for a few hours!!

Most of all, Happy New Year!!

Oh..Zeppole: Did Rizzo bakery reopen?

Wow, Zeppole..Those links are terrific!

You sure know how to find them!

One more question: Can anyone who knows them both (Waldo, ST Cirq,etc) give me a brief run down about the two towns: Gaeta and Sperlonga. Which one should I be looking at? Sperlonga seems to have a better choice of nice hotels..

I think I would get a hotel in Gaeta. I believe there are more hotels there and also more and better restaurants. I know the hotel rates in Gaeta are better, possibly due to more of them being available. That aside, I would also frequent Sperlonga. It is a fabulous place, but it's pretty small, and there's a limit to your activities. Sperlonga, to my way of thinking, is not a place to spend a long time. It's got a fabulous beach and a couple of decent restaurants, and that's it. One thing it does have is fantastic scenery. The beach is way down the bottom of the long hill, but on the upper side of the hill are unbelievable homes and scenery. It seems the homes are one piece, carved out of one big rock. Gaeta, on the other hand, has a lot going for it. The evening scene in the center of the town is stupendous. You can make it what you want, there's so much. You can stroll, you can just people watch, you can go to great restaurants or bars (a bar in Italy is not like a bar in the US, liquor is not the main ingredient, but espresso, pastries and friendly talk is). Also from Gaeta, you can take a quick trip to Formia, another nice town, with a lot to offer. It's only about five miles from Gaeta. One thing--either place you go to, you should take a drive. On the main road between Formia and Gaeta, heading inland, you can get to SS7, which means Strada Stradale #7,(State Route #7). Take that up the winding mountain, and you will have the ride of your life. The Amalfi Drive pales in relation to this. You go up through the greatest bunch of olive groves, for which Gaeta olives are famous, and staying on this road you will get to ITRI, a great town. After perusing Itri, keep going until you get to the big cathedral in Itri, on the left side of the road, and make a left turn there. Then get set for a thrilling ride down the mountain, which drops you off right at Sperlonga. It ain't for the faint in heart!

Are you going early September? It wasn't warm enough for swimming when I was on the coast this past September, but there were a few people(darn few) that wandered into the water. Are you thinking of staying between Sorrento and Naples or towards Massa Lubrense? There are many areas with views as nice as the Amalfi coast. Sorrento itself is more built up and the area between Sorrento/Naples than in the other direction. There are plenty of places up in the hills that are still on the bus route, but have great views.

I've only been to Costa Dorada not Costa Brava (debated both areas) in late May/early June and it was too cold to swim. I think there are more bus options for Costa Dorada than Costa Brava (which is why I chose it), but I only liked bits of Dorada (Cambrils, Tarragona) while other areas were catering to British tourists (similar to parts of Sorrento, but much more so).

I vote Ischia (it's on my list).

Hi ekscrunchy, and happy new year to you too!

There is still a baker where Rizzo's was but it has a new baker, who is much more fond of butter than I am! It has a much smaller selection but much of the same smiling staff. (By the way, we ate at Da Paolo last night and she's warming up to us! In the meantime, I've become addicted to the pesto at Rosa's and have to restrain myself from going up there twice a week).

I've never been to Ischia, but my impression has always been that there is regular bus service that circles the island along the coast, and that most of everything you want to see is on the coast. I've also heard the food and wine is unique. (see Plotkin).

But I have to say that Gaeta sounds like so much more of an adventure to me -- but I really don't want to say much more or else I'm going to start subtly pushing you to go vicariously for me.

Waldo, are there buses that take some of those roads? I'm up in Liguria where the bus drivers are really extraordinary, and so are the bus routes. Even if one has a car, it sometimes can be more pleasurable to get on the bus and take a 30 minute ride, since parking is so scarce up here. Plus, it's better to be in the bus I've discovered on some of these roads than be in a car facing an oncoming bus.

Hi Eks - If you choose Ischia I really don't think you need a car.

There's a regular circular bus service around the island - clockwise and anticlockwise - so you can tour the island easily.

Sant'Angelo is picturesque - but like Vincenzo I'd probably choose Forio as a base.

Sperlonga is attractive - but unless you want to spend all day on the beach you'd certainly need a car.

Steve

Wow..you are all so great and free with the advice! Many thanks!

Zeppole: I am really surprised about Rizzo--I wonder what happened. Sounds like a case for our agent on the scene to pursue! also: I read Plotkin last night and I get the idea that he is not all that keen on Ischia.."..on this touristy island, it is hard to find restaurants that avoid touristy food...German package tourists..blase tourist office.." Take a look and see if you agree. I know it was written a long time ago, and his negative comments are mostly directed as Ischia Porto, but take a look just for fun..

Ky: I am also shocked that it was too cold to swim in early September! Am I on another wild goose chase here?

Ischia look like it is running neck and neck with Gaeta in the informal survey here! Back to the drawing board for more reading..

Waldo: What do you think the Gaeta area would be like in mid or late September? The real factor for me in choosing this would be that we could get a direct flight to Rome and drive there from the airport. It's a lot easier to get to from the NY area than Ischia, and we have only one week, not one day more. Do you have any hotel ideas in Gaeta?

Thanks again, everyone, for helping out..

About the real need of a car in Ischia, I agree with Steve; and I agree also about the choice of Forio.
About Sperlonga, oh yes, you will be very busy with daytrips and time will not be enough, even.
So, one day trip has focus between Itri and Gaeta.
Then, a unqiue daytrip, if the sea is smooth, is to ship from Formia and visit Ponza. Ponza is only a bit less gorgeous than Capri, believe me.
Then, very close to Sperlonga, also Terracina deserves a short visit (do not miss the temple of Giove Anxur, meaning the young Giove; not only the temple is quite interesting but it is gorgeous the view !) and then, on the road you can go until the southern part of Castelli Romani and at least visit Lanuvio and Marino.
Then, one day is for the hills and so the cute towns: Piglio and Picinisco.
I can give you the smart advices to eat and to buy.
Ciao.

Ciao Vicenzo!

There are so many decisions! I will try not to worry like the last time!!

Are you thinking that it would be good to stay in Sperlonga and take day trips from there if we choose that region for our holiday? Is it not too small for an entire week out of season?

Here is a hotel I found that looks nice:

http://www.hotelgrottaditiberio.com/main.php

And the Villa Prato, that you recommended above:


http://www.agriturismovillaprato.it/ing/where.htm

eks- You posted mid-late September and I was there around the 20th. I was freezing in Tuscany/Siena and decided to head south to try to get warm. Perhaps you will have better weather.

I know VILLA PRATO and that's why I suggested you it: lovely and charming place.
Don't worry !

Vincenzo

I vote for staying in Gaeta, but do plan to spend time in lovely Sperlonga.

As for activities and day trips, you'll have more than you can imagine. I'll try to go find my trip notes about what we did in and around the area and post a bit later. Not to worry, though - we were amazed at how much there was of interest to see and do there

St. Cirq: Many thanks for chiming in. Are you recommending Gaeta because Sperlonga might be too small for a week? Gaeta seems to have so many concret-ey hotels on the beach--I guess that is giving me the wrong idea about the town.. PLEASE recount any details you find in your notes--I would love to hear more about these towns.. HAve you been to Ischia and if so,are you recommending these two over the island?

I have at least 50 guide books about Italy and only two that I found so far (Cadogan; TimeOut: Rome) has any information (very sparse information) on Sperlonga and Gaeta..

Vicenzo, you always have good advice and I will be counting on you for eating once I decide on a location! I will keep the Villa Prato in mind! And I will try to keep calm and not worry!!

If you haven't seen the film "The Talented Mr. Ripley", I suggest doing so.

Much of it was shot on Ischia.

I did see it and loved it! I think I will rent it again!

Here is an interesting article that references the film:

http://www.villa-beatrice.com/VillaBeatrice_press1.pdf

ek, I can't help with suggestions, but I want to be able to find this again in the future. I'll be interested to see where you decide to go!

ekscrunchy,

I'm guessing Rizzo's was just a case of retirement, selling to a younger owner.

I just read Plotkin, and you are right! I'm wondering now whoI read who gave a detailed report of great local food beyond the main port. If I find it, I'll let you know -- but I'm not encouraging you to go there.

Here's more links about Gaeta for you:

http://ilforno.typepad.com/il_forno/2006/06/gaeta_il_mercat.html

http://www.world66.com/europe/italy/lazio/gaeta__ulysses_ri

http://holidaysingaeta.blogspot.com/2008/02/ulysses-riviera.html

and this:

http://living.scotsman.com/features/Latina-lessons.2784717.jp

Zeppole--Great work! Try to think of the food report about Ischia, too, ok??

I do have Carla Capalbo's Campania book--thank you again to Ky Bourbon--if you don't have her books to Campania and Tuscany, you need to get them both..I have to go to the bookstore and see if I can turn up anything more about both the Gaeta area and Ischia..

Also: Have you seen this book, on Liguria:

http://tinyurl.com/7zjgum

Yes, I just ordered that Liguria/Genoa book!

I'll try, but I'm not sure I can figure out where I read that good report of Ischia's unique food and wine. But I think Arthur Schwartz has some admiration for the food of Ischia, but I don't have his book (Naples at Table).

And you might find this useful. (I don't have it)

http://books.google.com/books?id=Fq_TgTSm5WoC

September and October are by far the best months to be in Gaeta. The air is warm, but not hot as it is in July and August. I'll never forget that in February,1990 my grandsons and I were swimming on the beach of Serapo. Another funny item-- many Italians dress for the calender, meaning that if it's winter, you gotta dress real warm, regardless of the temperature. As I previously stated, Gaeta is the headquarters of the US Navy Sixth Fleet. It is common to see American sailors out running in their shorts and working up a sweat. Many of the locals think that those guys are nuts. They say "who runs practically naked in mid February?" (even if it's 75 degress outdoors). Outside of the many buses that run up and down the coast from Formia to Terracina (another great town), the is little public transport that goes inland from the coast. A car is essential if you want to do some exploring. A visit to that section of Italy is incomplete if you don't visit Sperlonga. Another town worth a visit for a short while is Fondi-good eating places and also one of the great pastry shops in Italy, (it's owned by my wife's nephew)
I have to give credit to Vincenzo. He knows his stuff better than I. I sure would like to discuss Naples with him.

Thanks, Waldo! Maybe it is the idea of lots of American sailors around that is making me hesitate..is the town very Americanized--are there hamburgers places around..that kind of thing? Do you have any idea about hotels? I will keep Gaeta under consideration!

Now, how can we get Vicenzo to sit down to dinner?? I want to come, too!!

I visited Italy last November, and our group stayed in Sperlonga. I loved it ! We stayed at the Grotta di Tiberio Hotel. A short 20 minute walk to the town itself.
Sperlonga is a great little town, and the beaches are spectacular!

Many thanks! Can you tell me more about Sperlonga? Is there a good choice of restaurants? Food shops?

I liked the look of the hotel you stayed at..what kind of group were you with? What else did you do in the area?
Was Sperlonga deserted in November?

About Sperlonga and its surrounding area and unforgettable lunch.
If sunny day and the sea smooth, the best idea for meeting is in the island Ponza and have a great lunch at ORESTORANTE (www.orestorante.it). It is, IMO, one of the best seafood restaurants of the whole Italy; for sure, IMO, in the rank of the Top 30.
Otherwise, in a NOT cute place, a very good restaurant.
The NOT cute place is Borgo Isonzo and the gorgeous restaurant is TRATTORIA ENOTECA ASSUNTA.


Vincenzo

Though there are many Americans in Gaeta, the town retains its' charm and its' Italianess. The Americans there are practically invisible, unless you look for them or live among them. The town loves the Americans, I'm sure because the American Navy respects everything there. There are no hamburger places there, there is one up close to the top of Mount Orlando, where the American offices and PX are located. By the way, the hamburgers are great. If you want to go to Gaeta, the fact that there are Americans there should not enter in your decision. As a matter of fact, for a person staying in Gaeta for an extended time, believe me, it's comforting to have a little piece of familiar home near you. I'll never forget when I had an ear infection, and though I received good service from the nice Italian hospital in Gaeta, the people that cleared up my infection were the Navy doctors.

Thanks, Waldo! I do appreciate your help and your patience with my repeated questions. Everyone has been most helpful.

I happened to see an episode of Lidia's Italy on PBS that was set in Gaeta. (She makes tiella) It certainly seems to be a great food town!!

Indeed the Grotta di Tiberio Hotel was fantastic. Our room overlooked the ocean! The food was just ok, but it was in such a great location, we ate out alot.
There is a path that leads to the town of Sperlonga. It runs along the beach, so it's a nice 20 minute walk. Our favorite meal on the trip was from the beachside restaurant called "Grotta Delfini" wonderful fresh seafood. Beware they charge by the gram on their baked fish. We ended up with a 60 Euro entree of baked fish, but we still thought this place was awesome. Everything else was reasonable.
My wife and I were on a tour of 25 people. We knew the tour leader, so I really can't compare it to other tours. It was a great base for Gaeta, Monte Cassino, Pompeii, Naples, and Sorrento. But it was a little out of the way for Amalfi. We visited the AC, but it was 4 hrs to Amalfi and Positano.
Campania seemed a little quite in November. Many shops never opened to late afternoon.
I really think you would enjoy Sperlonga/Gaeta any time of the year.
Mark

Sperlonga is so close to Gaeta, we used to go to the open air farm markets in Gaeta ( near ocean front) and buy fresh tomatoes and homeade wine. They wine was great, and 2.5 E for a large water bottle full!
We bought bread and salami in Sorrento and had a happy hr every day! Nothing better than wine, bread, salami, olive oil, basil and fresh tomatoes!

mcdobson hits the nail right on the head with his meals!!!!

`I think so too! I think I'll go have some -- except tomatoes aren't really in season right now. I bought some fresh pesto and chestnut pasta for dinner, and that will have to be the backdrop for the wine.

My family is from Ischia. Bus service is indeed available to all corners of the island. You don't need a car...there's just not that many places to drive to. If you do want to explore on your own, they rent these little jeep-type convertible vehicles that are a lot of fun.

I suggest you stay on Ischia Ponte. You will arrive at Ischia Porto, and Ischia Ponte is a short distance away. Ischia Ponte is also where they filmed most of the scenes in "The Talented Mr. Ripley", and , of course, the famous "Castello Aragonese" is there.

A great hotel just across the street from the beach is the MareBlu, which has a great pool. And I believe they are close to your price range.

As far as food goes, rabbit is the island specialty. There is a restaurant at the base of the castle called "Cococellos" (spelling) that makes a great rabbit cacciatore.

If you want to venture off the island, there is regular ferry service to Amalfi, Positano, Capri and Sorrento.

Hope this helps.

I HATE PESTO!!!!!!!!!!!

My wife's sister in Naples makes black bean and chestnut soup. Out of this world!

Wow--talk about a surfeit of riches!

Here is the hotel that Jim mentioned; the pool looks great! Thanks, Jim. If we decide on Ischia, then I have to decide on location on the island--Forio sounds good, too.

http://www.hotelmareblu.it/en/hotel-descrizione.html

How could I forget the Buffalo Mozzerella ? Simply amazing !

Speaking of that fantabulous foodstuff, I turned up this, when looking through a folder for future trips:


http://www.caseariacasabianca.com/

Apparently they have tables so you can buy the fresh cheese and snack on it, with Gaeta olives,bread, wine, etc--this according to an article in Gourmet magazine from 2007.

The same article also mentions this cheesemaker near Fondi:


http://www.caseificiobuonanno.it/

My mouth is watering!!

mcdobson-I'm happy you mentioned the mozzarella di buffala. I wanted to mention it, but you beat me to it! Incidentally, the best place in the WORLD to get that stuff is a place called LUISE's in Castel Volturno, north of Naples. I'm salivating.

Wasn't it Marcella Hazan who called pesto the "most seductive of all sauces for pasta" -- ?

Which reminds me, it's the dinner hour here, and I'm actually going to have pesto again this evening.

http://www.caseificiobuonanno.it/

This is exactly the place where we bought lots of stuff.
I found the smoked mozzerella to be the best I ever had. I snuck home 3 balls of it in my suitcase,
I almost cryed when I ate my last bite!

I'm sorry this is the place would loved !
http://www.caseariacasabianca.com/

They gave us a huge sample of each of the featured cheeses.
Also,. they must have the best fed cats in all of Italy! 4-5 hang out outside for scraps from these huge samples!
Bought local olive oil here too!
Two bottles made it back to vermont unharmed in my luggage!

Boy, am I a terrible typist!

Thanks, McDobson!

Ok..new question: If we do decide upon Gaeta or Sperlonga, I was wondering about adding another destination to the week's trip. So we might spend 5 days in that area and then move onto another spot.

Can anyone suggest a, interesting destination within an easy drive (less than 2 hours) of both Gaeta and the Rome airport? Someplace in interior Lazio? Any interesting destination hotels (NOT La Posta Vecchia this time!!) In the Sabine hills? Thanks!

Hotel in the Sabine hills:

http://www.hoteldegliangeli.it/

(I see that I have detoured a bit from Sperlonga...)

To visit Sabina is a great idea, especially if you enjoy olive oil !
My suggestions to sleep are the following two:
AGRITURISMO SANTO PIETRO in Coltodino, close to Fara Sabina, good location to visit Sabina www.agriturismosantopietro.it
D&B DEGLI ANGELI in Madonna degli Angeli, close to Magliano Sabina.
Delicious and rich dinners and very comfortable rooms; great location to visit Sabina.
www.ristorantedegliangeli.it
A further suggestion to dine is LA LOCANDA DEL POETA in Collalto Sabino and you cannot miss this very cute small hill town, maybe the cutest small town of Sabina, and a lunch here.
www.lalocandadelpoeta.com

Ciao.

Vincenzo

eks,
We were in Gaeta last May for 2 days as a return stop from the Amalfi Coast to Rome...stayed at the Gaeta Hotel Residence, the room was decent sized with a small kitchenette, and a great terrace off the room with great views of the ocean and the mountains. Gaeta is a small town with some beautiful old churches and a nice picturesque pedestrian only zone with some great shops and restaurants. You may also look into Terracina, we stopped there on our way out of Rome to Amalfi for a night...wish we could have spent more time...GREAT beach and a great site (Monumento Tempio Di Giove Anxur)....the Temple of Jupiter, a Roman site...lots of restaurants, shops, ect.....mikek

The picturesque pedestrian zone in Gaeta which Mike1728 refers to is named in Italian "Via Del'Independenza". The American Naval personnel stationed in Gaeta have referred to it as "Piccolo Alley". That name has stuck. A multitude of Gaetans refer to it as Piccolo Alley. A truly great place.

I am fortunate enough to live near SPERLONGA and GAETA in nearby ITRI.
We are an ENGLISH FAMILY who decided to sell up in the UK, completely change our lifestyle and move out to Italy. We came on holiday several times to this beautiful area of SOUTH LAZIO, and we liked it so much, we decided to make it our home !!!
http://trecancelle.shapcott-family.com
We also have a BLOG where you can follow our news and adventures in Italy: http://trecancelle.wordpress.com

I am passionate about this beautiful area of SOUTH LAZIO so have created and ENGLISH WEBSITE about the area, its towns and Resorts.

ITRI: http://itri.shapcott-family.com

SPERLONGA: http://sperlonga.shapcott-family.com

GAETA: http://gaeta.shapcott-family.com

SOUTH LAZIO: http://southlazio.shapcott-family.com