Songdoc’s English Trip Report
Mar 21st, 2010, 03:30 PM
#1
Original Poster
Songdoc’s English Trip Report
Left Dublin March 1st. I’d heard nothing but horror stories about Ryanair—especially about how they would be sticklers and not permit one ounce or one inch over the weight and size limits—including for carry-on luggage. So … we weighed, measured and re-weighed and re-measured … and we were fine. They never weighed or measured our carry-ons! But many passengers did have to check their carry-on bags—and purses had to included in the weight allowance. The flight was fine—and on time. No problems and no complaints with Ryanair from me.
FYI, I’d been to London several times and decided to forego that this time. I’ve been writing to a pen pal in Gloucester for almost fifteen years and we’d never met. So, DP and I decided to stay in Bisley, Stroud—in the Cotswolds—as it seemed centrally located to Gloucester, as well as several other areas we planned to visit.
As I’d been forewarned, the rush hour traffic in Bristol was bad—and the driving was stressful—but we still arrived in Bisley, Stroud in a little more than an hour. Once I got onto the M5 I did around 80 mph to keep with the flow—and cars were zooming past me. Driving the final half mile or so to the cottage will rank among the most harrowing experiences of my life. OMG, I have never seen such narrow streets—and there were stone walls on both sides, closing in on me, and threatening to scrape my rental car. It was barely wide enough for a horse—but of course … these were 2-way streets. So when a car approached, someone had to back up on the stone-walled, toothpick thin road. I suspect I lost at least three years of my life. Oh, and did I mention the cars parked halfway up on the curbs—further blocking the streets? My nerves were really shot by the time we arrived—and I’m completely used to driving on the left.
Bisley looked like nothing I’ve ever imagined. I felt as if I’d stepped back centuries. The buildings—with their golden Cotswolds stone and their meticulous gardens were exquisite. The cottage we rented (thanks to a recommendation by Julia on this forum)—Cooper’s Cottage—was exactly what we hoped for: very old, quaint, charming, open fire, oozing with character—and a lovely setting. It cost 295 GBP for six nights—and the owners were very nice and quite helpful. Bisley is not exactly a bustling tourist destination and we were able to walk through the town and up and down back lanes; explore the beautiful church and the well; and snap lots of photos—in under an hour.
We woke to a cloudy gray day. Our first day trip would be Bath. We’d heard that it was wonderful—but that was an understatement. I’d expected that the Roman Baths would be interesting—but it seemed that every inch of the city was exquisite. The architecture is simply gorgeous, as are the views from the river—and we walked and walked, snapping countless photos. Touring the Roman Baths—and every moment in Bath far exceeded expectations—and by midday the sun was shining.
Hot tip: we parked at the Park & Ride in Lansdowne and for 2.50 pounds each we parked—and rode the double-decker bus into the heart of the city. The views from the top of the bus were outstanding—and we avoided driving in the city—and the additional parking fees.
I thought our day in Bath would be hard to beat … but the following day was another highlight among highlights. It was another bright blue sky, cold day. We met my pen pal for lunch in Cheltenham at the Queen’s Hotel. The dining room with its crystal chandeliers was quite elegant and the food was beautifully presented and delicious. Chatting in person (for the first time) with DPP (dear pen pal) was everything I could have hoped—and much more. After lunch he guided us on a long walk through Cheltenham. It has some lovely buildings and statues—and a mind boggling amount of shopping.
We next headed to Gloucester to visit the cathedral. OMG. Suffice it to say that when I finally forced myself to set down the camera I found myself choking back tears from the sense of gratitude that I was seeing one of the most magnificent sights on earth. We were there just in time to listen to the organ being played and then, the choir rehearsing. The sound was truly heavenly. Thoroughly enjoyed walking through the town which had lots of interesting shops and architecture, and stopped for wonderful Cornish pasties at the Cornish Bakehouse.
Good news … the roads to Cheltenham and Gloucester weren’t nearly as harrowing and I was able to actually enjoy the scenery—instead of simply praying to not kill or maim anyone (including myself).
It was another brilliant, sunny morning when we set off for Oxford. First stop: Bibury. Absolutely beautiful. We strolled along the riverwalk, snapping lots of pix and explored a lovely old church. There are only a few shops in Bibury but it was quite pretty and we enjoyed it. Then on to Burford.
Burford was an unexpected highlight; exquisite architecture, wonderful antiques stores, and lots of colorful, interesting shops. It felt like a quintessential Cotswolds town. By the time we’d finished lunch we’d spent several hours and decided to switch plans. Oxford would wait until tomorrow. We’d spend the rest of this day leisurely exploring Burford and other Cotswolds towns.
Stow-on-the Wold had the requisite church and quaint buildings—but somehow felt too contrived and touristy. On to the Slaughters. Got some great photos at the old mill with sheep grazing close by. Took a nice walk along the river and realized that all the villages were beginning to blur. Decided we did not need to keep driving from village to village—that while they surely each have unique features, they were largely the same.
Dinner was back in Bisley—where we met up with local Fodorite Julia who had been so helpful in our planning. We had a delicious meals and tasty conversation at The Bear—est. 1639. What a nice treat!
We woke the next day to clouds, mist, and drizzle that transformed the cottage’s beautiful gardens into an impressionist masterpiece. Seventy minutes later, when we arrived at the Pear Tree Park & Ride for Oxford, the sun was shining once again. Oxford was absolutely stunning. The architecture of those exquisite buildings was almost too much to absorb.
We’d hoped to take a walking tour—but the next one wouldn’t start for 90 minutes—so armed with a map, we set out on our own. It was initially overwhelming—too much to see … but we realized that we couldn’t go wrong; everywhere we turned was “WOW”—and the city is quite compact.
I was surprised at the crowds, as everywhere else we’d been had been quiet. Apparently all the Asian and American tourists were in Oxford. It was even busier because graduations were taking place—and there was a boat race. It was an added bonus to see the graduates and professors wearing their robes. Felt like I’d stepped into a PBS TV show. (Actually have been filmed there.)
We wandered the streets taking photo after photo. The entire city is a “Kodak moment.” We soon learned that each of the colleges charges a separate admission fee—and there wouldn’t be nearly enough time to see them all—nor would that be necessary. We toured Magdalen (pronounced Maudlin) College with its fantastic "grotesques" (similar to gargoyles) and Christ Church College and Cathedral.
The line to enter Christ Church was more than thirty minutes—and once inside, the line to visit the Great Hall that served as Harry Potter’s Hogwart’s dining hall was ridiculous. We snaked through, barely able to see much more than tourists—while a guard barked orders to “Keep on moving!” Still, glad I saw it. We “pottered” around a bit and then toured the Cathedral. It was fantastic—but not quite the same “wow” factor as Gloucester Cathedral. We’d seen so many incredible sights that were getting quite spoiled.
We’d grown quite fond of our little cottage and Bisley. I was even adjusting to driving there … but it was sadly time to say goodbye to England.
I might ruffle some feathers with this comment—but we were slightly underwhelmed by the Cotswolds. Did we enjoy the area? Absolutely—and the towns were lovely. But I was expecting to be more impressed with the scenery. Most of what we saw was pleasant gently rolling farmland—but nothing significantly different from the views I’d see driving in Central Pennsylvania or Tennessee. I was expecting “wow”—but instead, I got “nice.” Maybe I would have felt deifferently in another season--but I don't think so. For me, a day or two would have been sufficient.
Our next stop was North Wales—before we ended our trip in Liverpool. But to keep all my England reports together, I’ll include Liverpool here and do Wales as a separate report.
Liverpool was a big surprise. I’d read on this forum that it had beautiful architecture—but I admit that I still expected a run-down, working class, unattractive, industrial town whose only real attraction was the Beatles-related sights. WRONG! Instead, I found a culture-filled city center with photo-worthy buildings at every turn. If I’d had more time I’d have liked to go inside the museums and theaters. They were spectacular from the outside.
Our hotel, the Marriott City Center, was a great location for the theaters, museums, and shopping—and about a twenty minute walk to the Docks. It was a steal at $61/night on Priceline—but the parking was an additional 12 GBP per night—and the Internet an additional 15 GBP per 24 hours.
I wanted to do the Magical Mystery Tour Bus—but it didn’t work with my teaching schedule—so I hired a “Fab Cab” taxi for my own private Beatles tour. (DP wasn’t interested and stayed behind.) The tour cost 45 pounds for three hours (for 1 – 3 people) and the guide was personable and a veritable encyclopedia of Beatles info. He’d gone to the same high school as John and Paul, worshipped at the same church, and still got his hair cut at the barber shop on Penny Lane. We visited Eleanor Rigby’s grave, Strawberry Field, the place where John & Paul first met, each of their childhood homes, and anywhere any of them had ever sneezed. It was heaven for a Beatles fan.
DP and I enjoyed the live John Lennon tribute music at the Cavern—where the Beatles played 292 shows back when the consensus was that they’d never make it. I bought lots of souvenirs—mugs, guitar picks, and a T-shirt. Really enjoyed strolling through the city and soaking up the sights of that architecture. The Crown Pub across from the Marriott was beautiful and we had a tasty, inexpensive dinner there. Love those meat pies! Sure did wish we’d had another day or two in Liverpool.
The drive from Liverpool to the Manchester airport was easy—around 45 minutes—once I got out of the maze of the city center. The trip home unfortunately took a detour through hell. I’ll spare you the details, but due to storms and spring break, we arrived home in Nashville 34 hours after we left Liverpool!
Here’s the photo link for the pix of England to copy and paste in your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...6%3A1886009968
FYI, I’d been to London several times and decided to forego that this time. I’ve been writing to a pen pal in Gloucester for almost fifteen years and we’d never met. So, DP and I decided to stay in Bisley, Stroud—in the Cotswolds—as it seemed centrally located to Gloucester, as well as several other areas we planned to visit.
As I’d been forewarned, the rush hour traffic in Bristol was bad—and the driving was stressful—but we still arrived in Bisley, Stroud in a little more than an hour. Once I got onto the M5 I did around 80 mph to keep with the flow—and cars were zooming past me. Driving the final half mile or so to the cottage will rank among the most harrowing experiences of my life. OMG, I have never seen such narrow streets—and there were stone walls on both sides, closing in on me, and threatening to scrape my rental car. It was barely wide enough for a horse—but of course … these were 2-way streets. So when a car approached, someone had to back up on the stone-walled, toothpick thin road. I suspect I lost at least three years of my life. Oh, and did I mention the cars parked halfway up on the curbs—further blocking the streets? My nerves were really shot by the time we arrived—and I’m completely used to driving on the left.
Bisley looked like nothing I’ve ever imagined. I felt as if I’d stepped back centuries. The buildings—with their golden Cotswolds stone and their meticulous gardens were exquisite. The cottage we rented (thanks to a recommendation by Julia on this forum)—Cooper’s Cottage—was exactly what we hoped for: very old, quaint, charming, open fire, oozing with character—and a lovely setting. It cost 295 GBP for six nights—and the owners were very nice and quite helpful. Bisley is not exactly a bustling tourist destination and we were able to walk through the town and up and down back lanes; explore the beautiful church and the well; and snap lots of photos—in under an hour.
We woke to a cloudy gray day. Our first day trip would be Bath. We’d heard that it was wonderful—but that was an understatement. I’d expected that the Roman Baths would be interesting—but it seemed that every inch of the city was exquisite. The architecture is simply gorgeous, as are the views from the river—and we walked and walked, snapping countless photos. Touring the Roman Baths—and every moment in Bath far exceeded expectations—and by midday the sun was shining.
Hot tip: we parked at the Park & Ride in Lansdowne and for 2.50 pounds each we parked—and rode the double-decker bus into the heart of the city. The views from the top of the bus were outstanding—and we avoided driving in the city—and the additional parking fees.
I thought our day in Bath would be hard to beat … but the following day was another highlight among highlights. It was another bright blue sky, cold day. We met my pen pal for lunch in Cheltenham at the Queen’s Hotel. The dining room with its crystal chandeliers was quite elegant and the food was beautifully presented and delicious. Chatting in person (for the first time) with DPP (dear pen pal) was everything I could have hoped—and much more. After lunch he guided us on a long walk through Cheltenham. It has some lovely buildings and statues—and a mind boggling amount of shopping.
We next headed to Gloucester to visit the cathedral. OMG. Suffice it to say that when I finally forced myself to set down the camera I found myself choking back tears from the sense of gratitude that I was seeing one of the most magnificent sights on earth. We were there just in time to listen to the organ being played and then, the choir rehearsing. The sound was truly heavenly. Thoroughly enjoyed walking through the town which had lots of interesting shops and architecture, and stopped for wonderful Cornish pasties at the Cornish Bakehouse.
Good news … the roads to Cheltenham and Gloucester weren’t nearly as harrowing and I was able to actually enjoy the scenery—instead of simply praying to not kill or maim anyone (including myself).
It was another brilliant, sunny morning when we set off for Oxford. First stop: Bibury. Absolutely beautiful. We strolled along the riverwalk, snapping lots of pix and explored a lovely old church. There are only a few shops in Bibury but it was quite pretty and we enjoyed it. Then on to Burford.
Burford was an unexpected highlight; exquisite architecture, wonderful antiques stores, and lots of colorful, interesting shops. It felt like a quintessential Cotswolds town. By the time we’d finished lunch we’d spent several hours and decided to switch plans. Oxford would wait until tomorrow. We’d spend the rest of this day leisurely exploring Burford and other Cotswolds towns.
Stow-on-the Wold had the requisite church and quaint buildings—but somehow felt too contrived and touristy. On to the Slaughters. Got some great photos at the old mill with sheep grazing close by. Took a nice walk along the river and realized that all the villages were beginning to blur. Decided we did not need to keep driving from village to village—that while they surely each have unique features, they were largely the same.
Dinner was back in Bisley—where we met up with local Fodorite Julia who had been so helpful in our planning. We had a delicious meals and tasty conversation at The Bear—est. 1639. What a nice treat!
We woke the next day to clouds, mist, and drizzle that transformed the cottage’s beautiful gardens into an impressionist masterpiece. Seventy minutes later, when we arrived at the Pear Tree Park & Ride for Oxford, the sun was shining once again. Oxford was absolutely stunning. The architecture of those exquisite buildings was almost too much to absorb.
We’d hoped to take a walking tour—but the next one wouldn’t start for 90 minutes—so armed with a map, we set out on our own. It was initially overwhelming—too much to see … but we realized that we couldn’t go wrong; everywhere we turned was “WOW”—and the city is quite compact.
I was surprised at the crowds, as everywhere else we’d been had been quiet. Apparently all the Asian and American tourists were in Oxford. It was even busier because graduations were taking place—and there was a boat race. It was an added bonus to see the graduates and professors wearing their robes. Felt like I’d stepped into a PBS TV show. (Actually have been filmed there.)
We wandered the streets taking photo after photo. The entire city is a “Kodak moment.” We soon learned that each of the colleges charges a separate admission fee—and there wouldn’t be nearly enough time to see them all—nor would that be necessary. We toured Magdalen (pronounced Maudlin) College with its fantastic "grotesques" (similar to gargoyles) and Christ Church College and Cathedral.
The line to enter Christ Church was more than thirty minutes—and once inside, the line to visit the Great Hall that served as Harry Potter’s Hogwart’s dining hall was ridiculous. We snaked through, barely able to see much more than tourists—while a guard barked orders to “Keep on moving!” Still, glad I saw it. We “pottered” around a bit and then toured the Cathedral. It was fantastic—but not quite the same “wow” factor as Gloucester Cathedral. We’d seen so many incredible sights that were getting quite spoiled.
We’d grown quite fond of our little cottage and Bisley. I was even adjusting to driving there … but it was sadly time to say goodbye to England.
I might ruffle some feathers with this comment—but we were slightly underwhelmed by the Cotswolds. Did we enjoy the area? Absolutely—and the towns were lovely. But I was expecting to be more impressed with the scenery. Most of what we saw was pleasant gently rolling farmland—but nothing significantly different from the views I’d see driving in Central Pennsylvania or Tennessee. I was expecting “wow”—but instead, I got “nice.” Maybe I would have felt deifferently in another season--but I don't think so. For me, a day or two would have been sufficient.
Our next stop was North Wales—before we ended our trip in Liverpool. But to keep all my England reports together, I’ll include Liverpool here and do Wales as a separate report.
Liverpool was a big surprise. I’d read on this forum that it had beautiful architecture—but I admit that I still expected a run-down, working class, unattractive, industrial town whose only real attraction was the Beatles-related sights. WRONG! Instead, I found a culture-filled city center with photo-worthy buildings at every turn. If I’d had more time I’d have liked to go inside the museums and theaters. They were spectacular from the outside.
Our hotel, the Marriott City Center, was a great location for the theaters, museums, and shopping—and about a twenty minute walk to the Docks. It was a steal at $61/night on Priceline—but the parking was an additional 12 GBP per night—and the Internet an additional 15 GBP per 24 hours.
I wanted to do the Magical Mystery Tour Bus—but it didn’t work with my teaching schedule—so I hired a “Fab Cab” taxi for my own private Beatles tour. (DP wasn’t interested and stayed behind.) The tour cost 45 pounds for three hours (for 1 – 3 people) and the guide was personable and a veritable encyclopedia of Beatles info. He’d gone to the same high school as John and Paul, worshipped at the same church, and still got his hair cut at the barber shop on Penny Lane. We visited Eleanor Rigby’s grave, Strawberry Field, the place where John & Paul first met, each of their childhood homes, and anywhere any of them had ever sneezed. It was heaven for a Beatles fan.
DP and I enjoyed the live John Lennon tribute music at the Cavern—where the Beatles played 292 shows back when the consensus was that they’d never make it. I bought lots of souvenirs—mugs, guitar picks, and a T-shirt. Really enjoyed strolling through the city and soaking up the sights of that architecture. The Crown Pub across from the Marriott was beautiful and we had a tasty, inexpensive dinner there. Love those meat pies! Sure did wish we’d had another day or two in Liverpool.
The drive from Liverpool to the Manchester airport was easy—around 45 minutes—once I got out of the maze of the city center. The trip home unfortunately took a detour through hell. I’ll spare you the details, but due to storms and spring break, we arrived home in Nashville 34 hours after we left Liverpool!
Here’s the photo link for the pix of England to copy and paste in your browser:
http://www.kodakgallery.com/gallery/...6%3A1886009968
Mar 22nd, 2010, 12:08 AM
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"I might ruffle some feathers with this comment—but we were slightly underwhelmed by the Cotswolds. "
Why would you expect ruffling?
No-one with the slightest sensitivity to landscape would call our countryside outstanding. That's the whole point.
It's how humans have manipulated that countryside that makes the Cotswolds distinctive. How our forbears managed their agriculture and the buildings they erected, and the historical accident that preserved Cotswold buildings in the century when the Victorians rebuilt much of the rest of England. The oddly low population density that resulted - and our consequent lack of light pollution. The modern quirks of public policy (and global geography) that means scarcely anyone in the area has a vested interest in building anything that intrudes on what we residents can see or walk across - and the majority have the legal right to stop the minority from building anything we think might be obtrusive. And the resultant absence of England's (and especially SE England's) greatest blight: sprawl.
The landscape might look like bits of Pennsylvania - but I've not seen too many medieval churches round Pittsburgh, and even fewer Cotswold streetscapes. It's our towns and villages that make the area what it is.
This really is an area where less is more. Time spent darting round a dozen near-identical villages that could be spent gently walking the five miles between two is time wasted.
Why would you expect ruffling?
No-one with the slightest sensitivity to landscape would call our countryside outstanding. That's the whole point.
It's how humans have manipulated that countryside that makes the Cotswolds distinctive. How our forbears managed their agriculture and the buildings they erected, and the historical accident that preserved Cotswold buildings in the century when the Victorians rebuilt much of the rest of England. The oddly low population density that resulted - and our consequent lack of light pollution. The modern quirks of public policy (and global geography) that means scarcely anyone in the area has a vested interest in building anything that intrudes on what we residents can see or walk across - and the majority have the legal right to stop the minority from building anything we think might be obtrusive. And the resultant absence of England's (and especially SE England's) greatest blight: sprawl.
The landscape might look like bits of Pennsylvania - but I've not seen too many medieval churches round Pittsburgh, and even fewer Cotswold streetscapes. It's our towns and villages that make the area what it is.
This really is an area where less is more. Time spent darting round a dozen near-identical villages that could be spent gently walking the five miles between two is time wasted.
.
Mar 22nd, 2010, 07:38 AM
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I loved your pics. The first one of stained glass in your set of Gloucester is stunning. Stained glass is hard to do without overexposing or underexposing! Reminded me of how much I enjoyed Gloucester, but of the 22 English cathedrals I have visited, Ely remains my favorite.
Flanner, thanks for your wonderful insight on the landscape in the Cotswolds. I could not put into words the feeling about the villages there and thought it was just one of my idiosyncrasies, but you have said it well. I have so enjoyed visits to your part of England--the villages and walks have been memorable.
Flanner, thanks for your wonderful insight on the landscape in the Cotswolds. I could not put into words the feeling about the villages there and thought it was just one of my idiosyncrasies, but you have said it well. I have so enjoyed visits to your part of England--the villages and walks have been memorable.
Mar 22nd, 2010, 09:05 AM
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"I might ruffle some feathers with this comment—but we were slightly underwhelmed by the Cotswolds. "
I think that the Cotswolds are much more on the tourist trail for Americans than they are for British people. They're more a place to live than holiday in - unless you're visiting relatives or live in day-trip distance. I'd guess their popularity with US tourists has a lot to do with their proximity to London rather than any specific qualities.
I think that the Cotswolds are much more on the tourist trail for Americans than they are for British people. They're more a place to live than holiday in - unless you're visiting relatives or live in day-trip distance. I'd guess their popularity with US tourists has a lot to do with their proximity to London rather than any specific qualities.
Mar 22nd, 2010, 04:21 PM
#9
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Thanks for all the nice comments.
"No-one with the slightest sensitivity to landscape would call our countryside outstanding. That's the whole point."
I thought the countryside in the Cotswolds was lovely -- but it was not what I expected. I'd heard so many people rave about the area and it seems to be on everyone's tourist radar--so I was expecting more dramatic vistas.
I certainly don't regret going--I only regret going with wrong expectations of the scenery. It was relaxing and lovely; but I was expecting the drama and "wow" factor I found in N. Wales. It was no fault of the Cotswolds--but of my expectations.
I also went feeling as if I needed to visit each and every one of the towns -- or I'd be missing something important. But 2 or 3 towns were enough for me.
I certainly enjoyed my time there. Loved my little cottage in Bisley--and the sense of history all through the town. Ironically, I couldn't seem to capture that with my photos. Also loved my time in Burford, Lower Slaughter, and especially Bibury--where we strolled along the river walk. We hoped to do a long walk on the trail in Lower Slaughter--but it was too muddy.
Hopefully, this might help some others to get their expectations closer in line with reality.
"No-one with the slightest sensitivity to landscape would call our countryside outstanding. That's the whole point."
I thought the countryside in the Cotswolds was lovely -- but it was not what I expected. I'd heard so many people rave about the area and it seems to be on everyone's tourist radar--so I was expecting more dramatic vistas.
I certainly don't regret going--I only regret going with wrong expectations of the scenery. It was relaxing and lovely; but I was expecting the drama and "wow" factor I found in N. Wales. It was no fault of the Cotswolds--but of my expectations.
I also went feeling as if I needed to visit each and every one of the towns -- or I'd be missing something important. But 2 or 3 towns were enough for me.
I certainly enjoyed my time there. Loved my little cottage in Bisley--and the sense of history all through the town. Ironically, I couldn't seem to capture that with my photos. Also loved my time in Burford, Lower Slaughter, and especially Bibury--where we strolled along the river walk. We hoped to do a long walk on the trail in Lower Slaughter--but it was too muddy.
Hopefully, this might help some others to get their expectations closer in line with reality.
Mar 22nd, 2010, 04:48 PM
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Songdoc, I have been anxiously waiting to read all about Coopers Cottage and your time in Bisley. I have been getting some wonderful ideas from JuliaT as well and we are looking forward to spending some time there next year. Yours photo's are wonderful and it was especially great to see the cottage, its so cute!
We are looking to spend our time in the Cotswolds as a "holiday within a holiday" - just ambling around, lots of walking and taking it all in. Your observations are interesting, thank you for taking the time to post.
We are looking to spend our time in the Cotswolds as a "holiday within a holiday" - just ambling around, lots of walking and taking it all in. Your observations are interesting, thank you for taking the time to post.
Mar 22nd, 2010, 10:46 PM
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"I was expecting more dramatic vistas. "
Again: precisely the point.
We don't do drama. Well, we do: but it knows its place, which is in our theatres, churches or village halls when we put on plays and musicals.
But in countryside: drama is about as unCotswold an attribute as it's possible to get. If anyone finds any landscape round here with it, let us know. We'll send it packing to some Celtic desert or Northern wasteland where they go in for that kind of thing.
To be fair, I don't think many people DO yammer on about the landscape. Some travel writers go on(with some justification, though often with more gush than sense) about how nice it looks. Songdoc, unfortunately, had assumed that meant dramatic landscape when the writers were actually describing villagescapes, and the simple cuddliness of lived-in countryside dotted with buildings that look as if they'd grown out of the soil.
Again: precisely the point.
We don't do drama. Well, we do: but it knows its place, which is in our theatres, churches or village halls when we put on plays and musicals.
But in countryside: drama is about as unCotswold an attribute as it's possible to get. If anyone finds any landscape round here with it, let us know. We'll send it packing to some Celtic desert or Northern wasteland where they go in for that kind of thing.
To be fair, I don't think many people DO yammer on about the landscape. Some travel writers go on(with some justification, though often with more gush than sense) about how nice it looks. Songdoc, unfortunately, had assumed that meant dramatic landscape when the writers were actually describing villagescapes, and the simple cuddliness of lived-in countryside dotted with buildings that look as if they'd grown out of the soil.
Mar 23rd, 2010, 09:53 AM
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What wonderful photos!
I've enjoyed all your trip reports, and after our mini Fodors GTG it's great to be able to put faces to the names.
I hope the rest of your travels this year go well, and all the best to you both. It was lovely meeting with you.
I've enjoyed all your trip reports, and after our mini Fodors GTG it's great to be able to put faces to the names.
I hope the rest of your travels this year go well, and all the best to you both. It was lovely meeting with you.
Mar 30th, 2010, 01:42 PM
#15
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Thanks for all the very kind comments--and Julia, it was a pleasure meeting you, as well.
Re: meals ... We don't make a big event of our meals. I have health considerations and don't eat sugar or drink alcohol. We don't tend to go for "fine dining."
In most instances we were in self-catering cottages. We'd stop at a market on the way to the cottage and pick up groceries. Breakfasts were always prepared in the cottage.
Lunches were wherever we happened to get hungry while we were out sightseeing. In many instances we ate lunch in a pub or a little cafe. Lots of steak and ale pies -- that are a treat for us--or just soup and sandwiches.
Occasionally, we'd stop for Asian food or takeout. But most times we'd eat dinner back at the cottage, relaxing in front of a fire. We didn't "cook" -- but reheated items in the microwave.
We'd typically buy bags of lettuce and fresh vegs for salads. There were wonderful pre-packaged soups available in most of the markets. We brought back a roasted chicken that lasted a couple of days. Some dinners were soup, salad, a microwaved "baked" potato, a fresh vegetable, and pre-cooked ham or turkey from the store's deli section.
I travel a great deal and it's a lot easier for me to eat healthfully when all of my meals are not in restaurants. It's also far less expensive. That's not my primary motivation -- but it's a nice bonus.
We really enjoyed the fresh breads, scones, and cheeses. The different yogurts that aren't available in the U.S. were a treat, as well. FYI, I lost two pounds on the trip -- but that's mainly because we walked and walked and walked ...
I hope that answers your question.
Re: meals ... We don't make a big event of our meals. I have health considerations and don't eat sugar or drink alcohol. We don't tend to go for "fine dining."
In most instances we were in self-catering cottages. We'd stop at a market on the way to the cottage and pick up groceries. Breakfasts were always prepared in the cottage.
Lunches were wherever we happened to get hungry while we were out sightseeing. In many instances we ate lunch in a pub or a little cafe. Lots of steak and ale pies -- that are a treat for us--or just soup and sandwiches.
Occasionally, we'd stop for Asian food or takeout. But most times we'd eat dinner back at the cottage, relaxing in front of a fire. We didn't "cook" -- but reheated items in the microwave.
We'd typically buy bags of lettuce and fresh vegs for salads. There were wonderful pre-packaged soups available in most of the markets. We brought back a roasted chicken that lasted a couple of days. Some dinners were soup, salad, a microwaved "baked" potato, a fresh vegetable, and pre-cooked ham or turkey from the store's deli section.
I travel a great deal and it's a lot easier for me to eat healthfully when all of my meals are not in restaurants. It's also far less expensive. That's not my primary motivation -- but it's a nice bonus.
We really enjoyed the fresh breads, scones, and cheeses. The different yogurts that aren't available in the U.S. were a treat, as well. FYI, I lost two pounds on the trip -- but that's mainly because we walked and walked and walked ...
I hope that answers your question.
Mar 30th, 2010, 02:31 PM
#17
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And WOW. Your photos are really super. Loved the Gloucester shots and the person on horseback walking dog. Bath is lovely. Cheltenham looked nice also. Liverpool sounded great. I too had a different mind picture of it.
DH's mother and aunt visited cousins in Wales some years back so I'm looking forward to that.
DH's mother and aunt visited cousins in Wales some years back so I'm looking forward to that.
Mar 30th, 2010, 05:07 PM
#18
Lovely report songdoc.
"<i>Most of what we saw was pleasant gently rolling farmland—but nothing significantly different from the views I’d see driving in Central Pennsylvania or Tennessee. I was expecting “wow”</i>"
I think your problem is expecting 'wow'. I don't think anyone has ever posted on here that they were blown away by the scenery (BTW -- lots of British folks DO holiday in the Cotswolds. All those B&Bs aren't filled w/ just colonials).
I doubt you'll find places like Bibury, or Stanton, or Lower Slaughter, or Burford in PA or TN
It is the 'wool churches', the gardens, the footpaths/streams/, the towns, chocolate box villages - not any grand scenery. That is what you'd find in the Peaks, Lakes, North Wales, Devon/Cornwall coasts, Yorkshire Dales, NW Scotland.
The Cotswolds are not and never have been a "WOW" sort of place - and it isn't marketed that way. More a region of 'ahh's'.
"<i>Most of what we saw was pleasant gently rolling farmland—but nothing significantly different from the views I’d see driving in Central Pennsylvania or Tennessee. I was expecting “wow”</i>"
I think your problem is expecting 'wow'. I don't think anyone has ever posted on here that they were blown away by the scenery (BTW -- lots of British folks DO holiday in the Cotswolds. All those B&Bs aren't filled w/ just colonials).
I doubt you'll find places like Bibury, or Stanton, or Lower Slaughter, or Burford in PA or TN
It is the 'wool churches', the gardens, the footpaths/streams/, the towns, chocolate box villages - not any grand scenery. That is what you'd find in the Peaks, Lakes, North Wales, Devon/Cornwall coasts, Yorkshire Dales, NW Scotland.
The Cotswolds are not and never have been a "WOW" sort of place - and it isn't marketed that way. More a region of 'ahh's'.
Jan 26th, 2012, 10:05 AM
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songdoc,
your link was posted by julia - as i have questions about an upcoming trip to the cotswolds.
i hadn't thought about going to liverpool but after seeing your wonderful photos i would very much like to do so.
wow, your photos are fantastic!!!
we have stayed at Lower Slaughter (twice) and again your pictures captured the feel of that adorable town.
Thanks
your link was posted by julia - as i have questions about an upcoming trip to the cotswolds.
i hadn't thought about going to liverpool but after seeing your wonderful photos i would very much like to do so.
wow, your photos are fantastic!!!
we have stayed at Lower Slaughter (twice) and again your pictures captured the feel of that adorable town.
Thanks
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