Slow, south of france with a baby, a five year old and no driving
Mar 26th, 2015, 01:39 AM
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Slow, south of france with a baby, a five year old and no driving
We'd like to do 15-20 days this May, in the south of france with a one year old baby and our five and a half year old daughter. We don't drive and love staying in character-full old places with a sense of history and place. Both of us are fond of history, local culture, old architecture and good food. And we all love being around farm animals, walking in villages and forests and rummaging in small local markets.
We don't see us covering more than a couple of places that we can sink into, explore and enjoy for at least a week each apart from a pretty tiny town such as Arles. We don't want the chore of cooking unless its the odd market day and would need access to restaurants or in-house catering of some kind. A farm home-stay, with walkable access to a village and the countryside and a train/bus connection to get us there would be perfect.
Wonder if we are dreaming of the impossible!!
We don't see us covering more than a couple of places that we can sink into, explore and enjoy for at least a week each apart from a pretty tiny town such as Arles. We don't want the chore of cooking unless its the odd market day and would need access to restaurants or in-house catering of some kind. A farm home-stay, with walkable access to a village and the countryside and a train/bus connection to get us there would be perfect.
Wonder if we are dreaming of the impossible!!
Mar 26th, 2015, 03:23 AM
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How do you see yourself getting around with your entourage which will need a good bit of tending to? Not being snarky, but I just don't see you getting on a bus to go to the Pont de Gard.
Have you traveled in Europe before?
You might do better with a trip to Paris or London and do day trips as you want, in spite of loving the animals and countryside. Just my opinion. ;o)
Have you traveled in Europe before?
You might do better with a trip to Paris or London and do day trips as you want, in spite of loving the animals and countryside. Just my opinion. ;o)
Mar 26th, 2015, 04:58 AM
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Agree that getting around local areas by public transit with 2 small kids and all their stuff - even for a day or half-day excursion would be a major PIA. You don;t want to be standing waiting 30 minutes or an hour for the next local bus with 2 little ones. I think what you want is eminently doable but you will need a car to make it workable in tiny towns and countryside (to get from the farm to the town and to whatever local sights you may want to see - unless you just want to settle in a town - but then no animals.
If you really want to stick to public transit and see some things I think that you will need either larger towns or bigger cities.
If you really want to stick to public transit and see some things I think that you will need either larger towns or bigger cities.
Mar 26th, 2015, 08:33 AM
#4
I guess it depends, certainly I've based ourselves in Avignon for a week and used the trains to get off to Nimes/Arles and a few other pretty little towns. Chose a hotel inside the old walls but down by the station as well and I think there are appartments down there as well.
Like others think buses might be too much with the kids but only you know that, certainly there are buses from Avignon to Pont de Gard for example or there used to be tours that pick up at hotels.
Generally the French like children in restaurants and will provide basic support. May is a nice time to do it.
Despite my views I also think the guys above have also identified some good spoilers that you might want to take into account.
Like others think buses might be too much with the kids but only you know that, certainly there are buses from Avignon to Pont de Gard for example or there used to be tours that pick up at hotels.
Generally the French like children in restaurants and will provide basic support. May is a nice time to do it.
Despite my views I also think the guys above have also identified some good spoilers that you might want to take into account.
Mar 26th, 2015, 09:55 AM
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I agree that trains shouldn't be a problem, but buses are just more sporadic in those areas. Certainly doable, but not so convenient in scheduling and finding the stops. There definitely are buses that go to Pont de Gard from Avignon.
I do think you're dreaming myself. You want to walk around the countryside and pet farm animals but you can't be bothered with cooking and want restaurants or a personal chef or something. It is too much to expect some rural gite and yet be within walking distance of in-town restaurants.
Yes, if you have a LOT of money, you can actually rent a villa with a personal chef, so if that's the case, I'd look into that.
Never heard of a farm stay where people on working farms will serve you meals, clean your room, and rent you a room like a hotel. However, the Gites de France website does have a filter called "welcome to the farm" which you can check out. I think that is mainly just places in the country, and a farm ambience, but not really working farms, but maybe there are some in there. Some I saw were just in the country, that's all. And they won't be serving you meals, and they aren't usually within walking distance of a town with restaurants.
Here are some cottages for rent on a lavender farm in Provence. That sounds sort of cool. http://www.provencecottages.com/
They are near Saignon and Apt, which is a nice area. Apt has a great market, and decent public transportation (not great, I don't think there is a train staiton, but buses). They claim they are right at the edge of Saignon, which is a small village. They mysteriously won't show you exactly where on a map, though. Rates are very reasonable but of course, they won't cook you meals. It's worth looking into, I think. You would need a car.
I do think you're dreaming myself. You want to walk around the countryside and pet farm animals but you can't be bothered with cooking and want restaurants or a personal chef or something. It is too much to expect some rural gite and yet be within walking distance of in-town restaurants.
Yes, if you have a LOT of money, you can actually rent a villa with a personal chef, so if that's the case, I'd look into that.
Never heard of a farm stay where people on working farms will serve you meals, clean your room, and rent you a room like a hotel. However, the Gites de France website does have a filter called "welcome to the farm" which you can check out. I think that is mainly just places in the country, and a farm ambience, but not really working farms, but maybe there are some in there. Some I saw were just in the country, that's all. And they won't be serving you meals, and they aren't usually within walking distance of a town with restaurants.
Here are some cottages for rent on a lavender farm in Provence. That sounds sort of cool. http://www.provencecottages.com/
They are near Saignon and Apt, which is a nice area. Apt has a great market, and decent public transportation (not great, I don't think there is a train staiton, but buses). They claim they are right at the edge of Saignon, which is a small village. They mysteriously won't show you exactly where on a map, though. Rates are very reasonable but of course, they won't cook you meals. It's worth looking into, I think. You would need a car.
Mar 27th, 2015, 09:52 AM
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Thanks everyone - its been very useful having all the arrows point to the one direction- we are indeed asking for a bit much! We've done the Western and Eastern France in previous trips before the kids, mostly on public transport, and with a much awaited vacation, were looking to cover the south in the way we like it best. I do see the point on cars and babies so this one will have to wait.
Yes Christina, I did read up on quite a few b&bs in lovely old places too but clear information on public transport access is hard to get. Actually, in our experience, the quirky,lovely European bed and board in the full sense has not been such a bizarre concept, given the right research. But we feel older now and slower with the baby and it seemed worthwhile getting informed opinions before throwing out the sun-dappled gardens, country horses and forest mushrooms with the lavender. So, its on to other lands with the same asks! Thank You.
Yes Christina, I did read up on quite a few b&bs in lovely old places too but clear information on public transport access is hard to get. Actually, in our experience, the quirky,lovely European bed and board in the full sense has not been such a bizarre concept, given the right research. But we feel older now and slower with the baby and it seemed worthwhile getting informed opinions before throwing out the sun-dappled gardens, country horses and forest mushrooms with the lavender. So, its on to other lands with the same asks! Thank You.
Mar 30th, 2015, 02:36 AM
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Tomboy, we are older parents 
in our mid-forties. Now, just so anyone reading this thread and of our mindset doesn't feel discouraged here goes - Gretchen, we've travelled extensively together for 25 years now without driving and never missed it. I suppose once you put the constraint down, you find a way around it. Asia ( where its easy to get driven) aside We have travelled France, Austria, Italy, UK, Scotland, Spain, Greece etc etc on trains and buses. There is always a local cab from the nearby village you end up fixing with when you want a change from walking around. We tend to prefer boutique b&bs, homestays and rentals with a sense of place - and more often than not, the dinner table is helmed by food enthusiastic hosts. We enjoy soaking into and sharing a way of life. The big sites used to be exciting but for long holidays we'd rather step out onto grass and path.
BTW Our last one, was a classic agriturismo rental in Tuscany two years ago. Likewise in Skye the year before- lovely old house away from the village and a friendly local cab when and if...
After i last wrote, i found country homes in Aquitaine, Roussillon and Auvergne. One sends a hand cart to the station for the luggage, the other is a fifteen minute walk up from the trainstation, one is a converted convent outside a village. Others will pick you. All do meals, save one that will give you flashlight and point the path to the village and the restaurants. No Provence places so far, alas.
On the baby point, our elder daughter was a fellow traveller from seven months. Today at nearly six she is a good traveller with happy walking legs. The baby , well, the trusty sling will be out again. And painstaking research will ease the road... which is why i wrote asking for any - been there, done that pointers...
in our mid-forties. Now, just so anyone reading this thread and of our mindset doesn't feel discouraged here goes - Gretchen, we've travelled extensively together for 25 years now without driving and never missed it. I suppose once you put the constraint down, you find a way around it. Asia ( where its easy to get driven) aside We have travelled France, Austria, Italy, UK, Scotland, Spain, Greece etc etc on trains and buses. There is always a local cab from the nearby village you end up fixing with when you want a change from walking around. We tend to prefer boutique b&bs, homestays and rentals with a sense of place - and more often than not, the dinner table is helmed by food enthusiastic hosts. We enjoy soaking into and sharing a way of life. The big sites used to be exciting but for long holidays we'd rather step out onto grass and path. BTW Our last one, was a classic agriturismo rental in Tuscany two years ago. Likewise in Skye the year before- lovely old house away from the village and a friendly local cab when and if...
After i last wrote, i found country homes in Aquitaine, Roussillon and Auvergne. One sends a hand cart to the station for the luggage, the other is a fifteen minute walk up from the trainstation, one is a converted convent outside a village. Others will pick you. All do meals, save one that will give you flashlight and point the path to the village and the restaurants. No Provence places so far, alas.
On the baby point, our elder daughter was a fellow traveller from seven months. Today at nearly six she is a good traveller with happy walking legs. The baby , well, the trusty sling will be out again. And painstaking research will ease the road... which is why i wrote asking for any - been there, done that pointers...
Mar 30th, 2015, 04:02 AM
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That sounds lovely. Roussillon would give you Provence. And it is a lovely town.
There have been other posters here (particularly NYers) who have toured Provence without driving so of course it can be done. It is just more intense with a tiny one in tow.
There have been other posters here (particularly NYers) who have toured Provence without driving so of course it can be done. It is just more intense with a tiny one in tow.
Mar 30th, 2015, 05:35 AM
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Roussillon? Are you sure? There is no train that is remotely walkable.
As lovely a little village as it is, full of hordes of tourists most of the time -- you would be hard pressed to stay there and rely on public transit. I am sure there must be a bus there, but it simply isn't realistic with a family of 4, with 2 little ones.
We have friends that own gites and house rentals nearby and we house sit for them in off season. I love the area but cannot imagine staying there without a car.
And our friends gites, B&B room and house - rented through now till end of summer -- as of early winter.
You are well traveled and had great experiences, but having 2 little ones changes the game plan - a lot. Been there, done that.
As lovely a little village as it is, full of hordes of tourists most of the time -- you would be hard pressed to stay there and rely on public transit. I am sure there must be a bus there, but it simply isn't realistic with a family of 4, with 2 little ones.
We have friends that own gites and house rentals nearby and we house sit for them in off season. I love the area but cannot imagine staying there without a car.
And our friends gites, B&B room and house - rented through now till end of summer -- as of early winter.
You are well traveled and had great experiences, but having 2 little ones changes the game plan - a lot. Been there, done that.
Mar 30th, 2015, 10:54 AM
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Thanks for the cautionary tip off, Debit NM. Maybe i should have been referring to the Languedoc-Roussillon area which seems quite a large sprawl of several 100 kms. I have my eye on a few places. A very child friendly one at Roussillon, advises 'getting off the train at the Planes request stop and walking 15 minutes to the lodge'!! Seems workable. I am writing to several possibilities and i'm sure there will be many booked and many not quite what they seem, at first reading...Just researching and exploring at this stage.
Mar 30th, 2015, 11:12 AM
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Triptrip
You might want to find what we call a gîte (B&B in France are more commonly used for 1-2 nights) with 'table d'hôtes' (menaing the owner of the gîte is doing the cooking).
We did it once but unfortunately the food was horrible.
We were as you describe : in the middle of nowhere - but we had a car. At hte time we got a book of all the gîtes - I suppose you can get it online.
Another possibility is to go to a club : Club Med is the best (imho) and if you choose a time that is not in the french holidays then it is less expensive.
And congrats for having kids whilst in mid-forties ! It helps stay young.
You might want to find what we call a gîte (B&B in France are more commonly used for 1-2 nights) with 'table d'hôtes' (menaing the owner of the gîte is doing the cooking).
We did it once but unfortunately the food was horrible.
We were as you describe : in the middle of nowhere - but we had a car. At hte time we got a book of all the gîtes - I suppose you can get it online.
Another possibility is to go to a club : Club Med is the best (imho) and if you choose a time that is not in the french holidays then it is less expensive.
And congrats for having kids whilst in mid-forties ! It helps stay young.
