We also loved the Slamič in Ljubljana. Your photos of Slovenia are beautiful. Where did you stay in Bled? Loved Slovenia!

I think I read your trip report when planning this trip - your reports are generally so good. So thanks. I didn't stay in Bled, just did it as a day trip (I was trying to minimize the number of hotels as this was a pretty long trip). I loved Bled but I'd be interested in how it was in the evening.

Slovenia Days 1 and 2: Ljubljana

Ljubljana has a really nice vibe, looks very Austrian/Alpine Baroque – reminded me of Lucerne, Switzerland or a smaller Prague. I spent my first two days in Slovenia just exploring the city. Ljubljana is great- the old town is beautifully laid out with lots of gently curving cobblestoned streets leading to picturesque squares with pretty fountains and colorful churches which ring their bells every fifteen minutes. There’s an emerald green river running through the center of town crossed by several pretty stone bridges. This is the Europe in the summer that I love. I love hearing the clip-clop of footsteps on the cobblestones, finding a new square around every curve, listening to music – street musicians, plus the university music department is hidden in one of the old buildings and every time I passed it someone was practicing: violin, horn, piano, opera. Lots of alleyways leading to tiny courtyards.

There are tons of bicycles – kids, moms with babies on the back, business men in suits, grandmas in housedresses – everyone. And lots of well behaved dogs – big ones on leashes that are not tugging, little ones not sniffing and peeing every two feet – and none of them barking (can you tell I have a big dog who tugs and a little dog who barks).

And since I decided my pocketbook had to be replaced I got to go pocketbook shopping – there’s just enough stuff to do in Ljubljana to fill a couple of days if you add in a little shopping. There are lots of stores, and hardly any of them tourist type (big difference from Reykjavik). There’s a nice big market – mostly fruits and veggies – set up in one of the larger squares. I got some wonderful raspberries and then a frozen yogurt to eat with them for lunch.

I also like that the town is not crawling with tourists. There are a good number but they all seem to be rather local – didn’t hear any English, French or German. People in the stores do speak English but you don’t hear it on the streets.

The only disappointment was the castle – (8€ including the funicular up and back). The castle itself is a pretty boring shape and it’s been highly renovated and with lots of modern touches – glass and metal and there are even modern art exhibits. Not a lot of stone steps or atmospheric areas to explore. But it’s got a nice setting up on a hill just above the old town. And the view from the tower was good-you could see the squares, the roof tops, etc. also the Alps in the distance (though it was a bit hazy) but also all the communist era ugly concrete apartment buildings. (Other than the wonderful pedestrianized old town the rest of the town is not terribly attractive, but the visitor doesn’t really see that).

I had dinner at “Marley and Me” – I was headed to another place I had seen earlier and it caught my eye – not sure if it’s cause of the book by that title - I remember a Fodorite mentioned it. The sign said they had ‘traditional Slovenian food’ – I had a pasta dish but I guess pasta is traditional since Slovenia was part of Italy for a long time. It was good and reasonable .

In the evening in Ljubljana things are nicely lit, and the atmosphere was wonderful – music on every corner – and every imaginable kind: Spanish guitar, California style guitar/harmonica, cello and violin, accordions, multi piece bands, a performance of something that sounded sort of like Phantom of the Opera, acrobatic performance, fire dancers. Like a big party.

Yeah, Slovenia is a really nice little country. Not only is it scenic, but unlike say Italy next door, it isn't overrun with American tourists! I feel like I'm somewhere exotic when I'm there, which is much harder to do in much of tourist Italy or even parts of Austria. Slovenia is laid-back and easy to navigate.

Nice pictures. Looks like you had a beautiful day (at least one) in Ljubljana. It poured rain the one day I had there last fall! Fortunately, I'd been there before and had nicer weather. I stayed at the Slamic also. I stayed in a single room (one twin bed). I thought the place was decent - not amazing to me but very decent. In 2009 I stayed the Alibi M4 hostel in Ljubljana - not as nice as the Slamic but in a better location I thought, a little closer to the action.

I personally believe you were better off doing Bled as a day trip, anyway. The town of Bled itself is nothing special, whereas Ljubljana really is, perhaps more so at night.

It sure is a picturesque country, huh? Next time, you should try to get over to the eastern part of the country. It's a bit different. Ptuj is a charming little old town, even less touristy than the western part. Maribor is kind of part beautiful, part sprawl, not adorable like Ljubljana with its pleasing architecture but still charming in its own way. I spent a few hours in Celje off a train on a Sunday when the town was pretty much empty and closed. I'd like to see it when there are people in it!

Slovenia is also home to one of the most incredible vocal a capella/beatbox groups.
Remember them from this ? : http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yjbpwlqp5Qw

It's always been on my destination wish list. Thanks for your report. Perhaps it will move it closer to the top of the list.

Your photos are always so wonderful and inspiring and evocative - thanks so much for making them available to us!

Andrew - your reports and photos were invaluable to me planning this trip, so thank you. And you are right about Bled, it was a wonderful day trip and Ljubljana was great in the evenings so I'm glad I stayed there. I just wish I had been able to see the lake with the bluish color it supposed gets in the evening. The day time turquoise color was amazing so it would have been fun to see it change color. I got incredibly lucky with the weather - the whole week I was in Slovenia it was perfect (bit hot in Piran but you expect that in southern Europe in midsummer.)

Mathieu - cool video. You should definitely go to Slovenia, I am recommending to everyone I meet now.

kja - thanks for liking the pics.

Lake Bled Day Trip

The bus and train station (next to one another) are a ten minute walk from the center of the old town. Trains don’t seem to go very many places, and not at very convenient times, but the buses do and they were comfortable, if a bit slow (stop a lot). The trip to Lake Bled has similar scenery to the trip to the airport – the Alps in the not too distance, small towns with churches with the characteristic Eastern European bell towers/steeples, fields of hay and corn.

Bled town seems to be mostly just a collection of hotels and restaurants but the lake and setting are stunningly beautiful. The bus took 1¼ hr, it’s about a 40 min drive but the bus makes a lot of boring stops. Leaving the bus station, walk around behind it and down a slight hill to the lake. There is a path that goes all the way around the lake (about 4 miles circumference). After a few shops, the TI and some hotels it’s just greenery.

The water really is incredibly turquoise and very clear. Ducks and swans and a few boats – row boats you can rent, and larger boats (called pletna) that hold about 12 people that they row for you – no motorized boats, but then it is a tiny lake. As you walk around the lake the view of the mountains, the castle on the hill, the church on the island all change, each better than the last. I timed it right, walking along the south east side of the lake in the morning so the sun was behind me.

I had one of those ‘this is why I travel’ moments sitting on a shady bench looking at that perfectly clear turquoise water, big white puffy clouds, the Alps, the castle high on the hill, the white church steeple, the miniature island with the stone church, church bells ringing, the soft sound of people talking and laughing in a language I don’t understand (so you hear the voices, not the words), gentle breeze, warm sun. These sounds and images I’ll bring back up when it’s cold and raining or snowing or I’m just plain bored at work. Times like this, travel- sustains me. I can’t think of any other experience (maybe other than the birth of my children) that is better.

I stopped at a little café/store at a swimming spot and used the WC and got some grapes and cashews (salt and fluid – the grapes were very juicy). This other side of the lake is not as interesting but eventually I came to the path for the castle (right behind the other swimming area, the one closest to the town). It was a very steep 15 minute climb – some path, some steps but very steep and at least 1000 steps (including the path part). It was all shady but it was boring and tiring.

Bled Castle was just “OK” – more interesting than Ljubljana Castle but not that large, pretty much restored to house the exhibits – a rather extensive museum of archeological finds, a forge (not working), printing press display, wine cellar. It did have good views of the whole lake and the island, as well as in the other direction of a little village in the midst of green with the Alps in the background. There was a café but also a more expensive restaurant but they claimed to have a ‘June special’ of cherry cobbler with ice cream for 4€ which sounded reasonable and the tables on the shady terrace with the view were nice.

Hi Isabel,


As usual, great report with amazing pics! I always enjoy your reports.


You must get up very early to get such dramatic shots without people/tourists/passersby clouding the views, n'est-ce pas?

Sometimes I do get out quite early, I like wandering around then, and not just for the photography (although the light is best then too, not just lack of people). But not so much on this trip. Sometimes you just have to stand in one place for a few minutes till there's a break in the people.

Here's a link to the rest of the trip report and the photos
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/from-iceland-to-slovenia-a-month-across-europe-photos-and-impressions.cfm

After three days in Ljubljana I took a bus to Piran.

Piran is wonderful. A bit down at heel compared to Korcula or Dubrovnik, down the coast in Croatia, but charming nonetheless. And it has a fabulous main square (which my hotel was on, with a ‘to die for’ view from my room!!!), a nice harbor, a hilltop church, ramparts, a nice (if rather ‘pedestrian’ – no pun intended – Riva along the water). Definitely a local family destination as opposed to an international hot spot. Some (most) of the buildings could use some spiffing up but it’s got a nice feel and gorgeous setting.

The Hotel Tartini was great. Tartinijev trg 15 15 (http://www.hotel-tartini-piran.com/en) €82/night It had some so-so reviews but maybe they were before it was renovated because this place was wonderful. Of course the setting is the main thing – front rooms overlooking that gorgeous main square, back rooms get a view of the harbor. But it’s clean, modern inside, nice pink/salmon color outside. My single room was plenty large, comfy bed, great AC, mini fridge, free wi-fi. Can’t think of anything that’s missing. Furnishings all very new. And there’s live music outside from about 8pm (of course it was weekend in midsummer, I don’t think this probably happens every day, but what a treat. First a jazz band with decent vocalist, then a drumming group, next night another singing group). The hotel breakfast was one of the best I’ve ever had – fresh pineapple, cantaloupe, watermelon, lots of bread and croissant and cake choices, meats, cheeses, eggs, vegetables, etc.

I explored a bit, then got a ham sandwich at a bakery and an ice coffee at a café on the Riva (comes with ice cream in it and whipped cream on top! – Starbucks should take a lesson from these guys). Then just wandered all over – it was beastly hot so went back to the room and skyped my family at home - where everything was reportedly fine. So I felt less worried about them, and less guilty that I was having SO MUCH FUN in Slovenia.

Dinner was just so-so – scampi and spaghetti but nice setting on the Riva overlooking the glistening Adriatic would have made anything taste good. And I got tiramisu at the bakery which I ate later in my room while listening to the live concert out my window. Life is good.

Hi Isabel - your photos are gorgeous, as always! I did a few days in Slovenia several years ago and did not become a fan. There was no activity in Bled in the evenings (not much in the day time either). I thought Ljubljana pretty but very little sightseeing. I was there on a Sunday and enjoyed the market near the Dragon bridge. I still wear the ceramic necklaces I bought there.

I didn't get to Piran which looks charming. Glad you enjoyed your time.

Day 2 in Piran

Another gorgeous sunny (but beastly hot and humid) day. Went first to explore the ramparts – great views of course. Pretty steep climb up there, then lots of steps to the towers. Nice combination of the old stone steps – some about 18 inches tall and only six inches wide – but with solid iron railings to hold on to. Interesting wooden ladder/staircase contraption to the main tower. Then I just explored all the little streets and alleys. Looks like tons of apartment rentals, and mostly Eastern European languages so I guess this is where lots of landlocked Eastern European families go on holiday. The hotel and restaurant workers speak English but I heard very little of it just walking around.

After my first siesta (fortunately the hotel is smack in the center of the town so very easy to keep coming back frequently, and with the temp well into the 90s and the humidity close to that, it feels good to cool your body temp down in the hotel’s AC) I went to the campanile and climbed it. Only a measly 150 steps and fabulous views, well worth the 1 €. Wandered around taking more photos. Another siesta, this time with a slice of pizza from the bakery and then out again. Noticed that the majority of people here are families;, middle aged people and older, young kids. There are a few hot 20 somethings but most look very working class and are not in great physical shape – not a jet set type of destination at all. And the interesting thing is that everyone, of all shapes wear bikinis and speedos. Women with bodies who in America wouldn’t be caught dead in a regular bathing suit outside their own backyard are wandering around in bikinis- even thongs! Quite the sight.

Had dinner of Greek salad at a waterfront café and then climbed the ramparts for a view of the sunset.

Overall I loved Slovenia - I just think it was a great combination of Alpine and Adriatic with an adorable capital. Individually each of those had the equivalent or better else where (e.g. Piran was nice, but Korcula, Dubrovnik were better; there are other cute little Alpine lakes, etc) but having them all so close together in one little country was what made Slovenia special.

Thanks MUCH for your report.(Haven't looked at the photos yet)We are definitely going to Slovenia in Sept.2013,after a week in Paris and then Hamburg.Planning about 2 weeks in Slovenia and then 2+ weeks in Croatia.
I'm planning to book the Slamic and Hotel Tartini also. I think we'll stay 2 nites in Piran, because of also doing Korcula,etc.

The one thing i know is this: Slovenia is getting fabulous press in the travel mags and in 5 years it is going to be BUZZING w/turistas. So folks, enjoy it now!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

I also think Slovenia is lovely. We were just in Ljubljana there for our third time, but it was our first time wandering the streets at night, and it really was beautiful.

I enjoyed your report and especially the photos (as always). We just returned from that area and spent a couple of days in Ljubljana and Lake Bled. It was nice to see what they look like in the sun! We weren't that lucky--one day it poured on us and the other was overcast and hazy. We didn't get to Piran, but we did stay just down the coast in Rovinj. I definitely intend to go back to visit more of Slovenia. Thanks for sharing!

Posted this on the wrong thread...so here it is again:

We just got back from a trip that included a week in Slovenia, and we LOVED it. Your pictures are wonderful, and bring back great memories.

Unfortunately we only had ½ day in Ljubljana, and it poured. We walked a little, but nowhere like what we wanted to…plus, it was chilly, and we were not prepared. I want to go back, and really explore this pretty gem.

We stayed 3 nights in Bled, which gave us 2 full days there – we spent one day in Vintgar Gorge and to visit the castle, one day to take a day trip to Bohinj Lake and Vogel mountain. The evenings in Bled were nice, quiet and cool.

I am working on a trip report, but you can see my pictures here http://ioana-mark.smugmug.com/Travel/2012-Czech-Republic-Austria/25154352_xp37gR#!i=2062675900&k=gpSHqrq

xyz, loved your pictures!

Thanks - it was a great trip.