Sicily Itinerary help - 15 nights
Jun 18th, 2014, 07:23 PM
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Sicily Itinerary help - 15 nights
Am visiting Sicily with my husband in October - we will have 16 nights, arriving by car from Calabria so am assuming we should start in Taormina and will complete our visit in Palermo (where we will drop off our rental car and fly to Rome)... we are comfortable and experienced driving in Italy... enjoy touring, visiting towns, sitting in piazzas, exploring ruins and would enjoy a bit of sea side views as well. To see the highlights it looks like our only option is a Sicilian road trip, so lots of checking in and checking out and finding our way about towns to new accommodations and parking. The itinerary posted here is rough for planning purposes and with this as a frame, I would have 2 extra days to add to certain destinations... I would appreciate any advice or comments on how to adjust this to ensure the best possible itinerary... Thanks so much.
Jun 18th, 2014, 07:50 PM
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"To see the highlights it looks like our only option is a Sicilian road trip" -- actually, it is surprisingly easy to see much of Sicily with public transportation, if that is what you prefer. You options will depend on what you want to see and experience.
"lots of checking in and checking out and finding our way about towns to new accommodations" -- that depends on how far you are willing to travel for day trips. And even if your ultimate plan does involve frequent relocations, there are ways to make doing so a bit more liveable than might be your routine.
"The itinerary posted here" -- I don't see an itinerary!
Sicily is stunning - well worth a visit! But as I learned (to my regret) 2 weeks is on the short side for this spectacular island, so you do need to be selective.
"lots of checking in and checking out and finding our way about towns to new accommodations" -- that depends on how far you are willing to travel for day trips. And even if your ultimate plan does involve frequent relocations, there are ways to make doing so a bit more liveable than might be your routine.
"The itinerary posted here" -- I don't see an itinerary!
Sicily is stunning - well worth a visit! But as I learned (to my regret) 2 weeks is on the short side for this spectacular island, so you do need to be selective.
Jun 19th, 2014, 01:22 AM
#3
If this was your first trip to Italy, or you'd not driven there, I'd be loathe to suggest driving there. Given that you are comfortable with driving, then having a car will certainly give you more options. I particularly enjoyed driving around the Parco delle Madonie south of Cefalú : Beautiful rugged scenary, and some lovely little towns and villages.
There are negatives. Parking can be difficult to impossible, and where available is often very expensive.
On our first trip we used Siracusa as a base to explore the East, and then went on to Cefalú. This worked quite well for us, but I probably missed out on the Far west because of it.
There are negatives. Parking can be difficult to impossible, and where available is often very expensive.
On our first trip we used Siracusa as a base to explore the East, and then went on to Cefalú. This worked quite well for us, but I probably missed out on the Far west because of it.
Jun 19th, 2014, 02:10 AM
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Where is the itinerary?
I think the definition of a road trip is not who is doing the driving, but whether one is on the road pretty much every day, moving forward, rather than picking a "base" and doing day trips.
What really matters is what you consider to be the highlights of Sicily. Not everybody goes to Sicily looking to see or experience the same angle on Sicily.
Regarding checking in and checking out, if you pack for that, and if you choose lodgings where that process is simple, it has no impact on your trip. It typically takes me longer to get my restaurant check in Italy and pay it than it does for me to check into and out of an Italian lodging. Unless you have a psychological dislike about leaving a hotel any sooner than 3 days, then choosing to stay in well-run lodgings with good parking, with easy access from the highway is a breeze. I personally try to choose a place that either serves dinner or where there is a good restaurant nearby that I can walk to that I have chosen in advance of booking the hotel.
But for some people headed to Sicily, the highlight of Sicily is to be staying at a agriturismo or on an island or small Sicilian village or a fascinating city like Palermo, hanging out with the Sicilians, rather than visiting ruins and other famous tourist spots scattered around the island. If you don't like to road trip, it can be very rewarding to stay in one place in Sicily for an extended period. I've done both and liked the experiences equally.
I think the definition of a road trip is not who is doing the driving, but whether one is on the road pretty much every day, moving forward, rather than picking a "base" and doing day trips.
What really matters is what you consider to be the highlights of Sicily. Not everybody goes to Sicily looking to see or experience the same angle on Sicily.
Regarding checking in and checking out, if you pack for that, and if you choose lodgings where that process is simple, it has no impact on your trip. It typically takes me longer to get my restaurant check in Italy and pay it than it does for me to check into and out of an Italian lodging. Unless you have a psychological dislike about leaving a hotel any sooner than 3 days, then choosing to stay in well-run lodgings with good parking, with easy access from the highway is a breeze. I personally try to choose a place that either serves dinner or where there is a good restaurant nearby that I can walk to that I have chosen in advance of booking the hotel.
But for some people headed to Sicily, the highlight of Sicily is to be staying at a agriturismo or on an island or small Sicilian village or a fascinating city like Palermo, hanging out with the Sicilians, rather than visiting ruins and other famous tourist spots scattered around the island. If you don't like to road trip, it can be very rewarding to stay in one place in Sicily for an extended period. I've done both and liked the experiences equally.
Jun 19th, 2014, 04:00 AM
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Sorry about that - forgot to paste in the itinerary -
Oct 21 - arrive Taormina (2 nights)
Oct 23 - Syracusa - Ortigia - 2 nights
Oct 25 - Agrigento - 2 nights
Oct 27 - Selinunte - 3 nights
Oct 30 - Erice - 2 nights
Nov 1 - Cefalu - 2 nights
Nov 3 - Palermo - 2 nights
2 extra nights
And thank you for the comments offered in spite of a lack of info...
Oct 21 - arrive Taormina (2 nights)
Oct 23 - Syracusa - Ortigia - 2 nights
Oct 25 - Agrigento - 2 nights
Oct 27 - Selinunte - 3 nights
Oct 30 - Erice - 2 nights
Nov 1 - Cefalu - 2 nights
Nov 3 - Palermo - 2 nights
2 extra nights
And thank you for the comments offered in spite of a lack of info...
Jun 19th, 2014, 01:19 PM
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I spent one night in Agrigento to see the historic monuments, and it was fine for me. If you also want to see the town of Agrigento, then you might need longer there.
As for 2 nights in Palermo_ My first trip to Sicily -- which was very much like your itinerary -- I skipped Palermo totally except for a visit to Monreale. I felt that I didn't have enough time to visit the city proper, so I stayed nearer the airport before flying home. Recently, I returned to Palermo for a whole week and I just loved the city. I don't expect most people can give that much time to the city, so I don't know what to say. If you decide to go for a brief visit, focus on what you most want to see and consider hiring a native to move you around efficiently. But if you are for some reason thinking "we should go to Palermo, even if we don't have much time to see anything" -- then I would lose that thought. You can still get a very good feeling for Sicily without visiting Palermo (sort of like you can get a feeling for the US without visiting Washington DC). Palermo is its own place. It has beautiful, fascinating sights, but you will miss most of them if you are only there for a day.
All that said, it does seem to me that you can squeeze some time for Palermo by spending less time in some other destinations. And fyi --- a lot of people are very charmed by Ortygia, so you might want to linger there a bit.
I would play around with this itinerary (but seriously, up to you)
Oct 21 - arrive Taormina (2 nights)
Oct 23 - Syracusa - Ortigia - 3 nights
Oct 25 - Agrigento - 1 nights
Oct 27 - Selinunte - 1 or 2 nights
Oct 30 - Erice - 2 nights
Nov 1 - Palermo 5 nights (visits to Cefalu & Monreale)
Another note is that if you are fit and energetic, you might prefer Castelmora right above Taormina to staying in Taormina itself. Just a step removed from the cruise ship impact.
Enjoy the wonderful food and extraordinary atmosphere of Sicily. In an increasingly homogenized world, Sicily really stands out for its quirky ways and robustly flavorful food, and this amazing, amazing ancient history that still feels -- and is -- so alive.
As for 2 nights in Palermo_ My first trip to Sicily -- which was very much like your itinerary -- I skipped Palermo totally except for a visit to Monreale. I felt that I didn't have enough time to visit the city proper, so I stayed nearer the airport before flying home. Recently, I returned to Palermo for a whole week and I just loved the city. I don't expect most people can give that much time to the city, so I don't know what to say. If you decide to go for a brief visit, focus on what you most want to see and consider hiring a native to move you around efficiently. But if you are for some reason thinking "we should go to Palermo, even if we don't have much time to see anything" -- then I would lose that thought. You can still get a very good feeling for Sicily without visiting Palermo (sort of like you can get a feeling for the US without visiting Washington DC). Palermo is its own place. It has beautiful, fascinating sights, but you will miss most of them if you are only there for a day.
All that said, it does seem to me that you can squeeze some time for Palermo by spending less time in some other destinations. And fyi --- a lot of people are very charmed by Ortygia, so you might want to linger there a bit.
I would play around with this itinerary (but seriously, up to you)
Oct 21 - arrive Taormina (2 nights)
Oct 23 - Syracusa - Ortigia - 3 nights
Oct 25 - Agrigento - 1 nights
Oct 27 - Selinunte - 1 or 2 nights
Oct 30 - Erice - 2 nights
Nov 1 - Palermo 5 nights (visits to Cefalu & Monreale)
Another note is that if you are fit and energetic, you might prefer Castelmora right above Taormina to staying in Taormina itself. Just a step removed from the cruise ship impact.
Enjoy the wonderful food and extraordinary atmosphere of Sicily. In an increasingly homogenized world, Sicily really stands out for its quirky ways and robustly flavorful food, and this amazing, amazing ancient history that still feels -- and is -- so alive.
Jun 19th, 2014, 06:06 PM
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Hi Christie,
Very excited for you to be visiting Sicily. I loved it! I have Bob, kja, thursdayd and a few others to thank. I was inspired by their trip reports and was able to plan my solo trip with their help.
IMO your timing sounds about right. I would have spent 2 nts in Taormina IF I had visiting the Alacante (SP?) Gorge / Etna as priorities. As it was 1 nt was plenty for me as my priority was 5 nts in the Aeolians.
Completely loved Ortigia, stayed 3 nts, could have stayed longer. Archeological Museum was a highlight as was the beautiful duomo piazza on Ortigia.
1 nt Agrigento was enough for me to see the Arch Park and museum.
Selinute, really enjoyed this site. Very large and therefore did not feel crowded. LOVED La Foresteria Planeta Estate and the view from my room of the herb garden, vineyards, and sea. I was told the beach there is nice, but did not visit it myself. I had only 1 nt, but would have loved 2 or 3. There is much to see in the area. Be sure to ask for a garden room and not a pool room if you stay there.
Also really enjoyed Erice. Stayed first 3 nts of the trip and did a couple day trips from here.
I picked up my car in downtown Trapani and dropped it on Ortigia. Drove everywhere in between with no parking issues, even in Scicli where my hotel allowed me to park right in front.
I spent 4 nts in Palermo, liked it, but didn't LOVE it like I love Rome and Naples (which surprised me). Had a great historical 1/2 day walking tour with Jacquiline Alio, highly recommend.
If you want to read my 2013 trip report for more details, just click my name.
Have a wonderful trip. Be sure to try granita in every flavor, the marizpan cookies and pastries, the Nero d'Avolo, and eat as much seafood as humanly possible.
Buon viaggio!
Very excited for you to be visiting Sicily. I loved it! I have Bob, kja, thursdayd and a few others to thank. I was inspired by their trip reports and was able to plan my solo trip with their help.
IMO your timing sounds about right. I would have spent 2 nts in Taormina IF I had visiting the Alacante (SP?) Gorge / Etna as priorities. As it was 1 nt was plenty for me as my priority was 5 nts in the Aeolians.
Completely loved Ortigia, stayed 3 nts, could have stayed longer. Archeological Museum was a highlight as was the beautiful duomo piazza on Ortigia.
1 nt Agrigento was enough for me to see the Arch Park and museum.
Selinute, really enjoyed this site. Very large and therefore did not feel crowded. LOVED La Foresteria Planeta Estate and the view from my room of the herb garden, vineyards, and sea. I was told the beach there is nice, but did not visit it myself. I had only 1 nt, but would have loved 2 or 3. There is much to see in the area. Be sure to ask for a garden room and not a pool room if you stay there.
Also really enjoyed Erice. Stayed first 3 nts of the trip and did a couple day trips from here.
I picked up my car in downtown Trapani and dropped it on Ortigia. Drove everywhere in between with no parking issues, even in Scicli where my hotel allowed me to park right in front.
I spent 4 nts in Palermo, liked it, but didn't LOVE it like I love Rome and Naples (which surprised me). Had a great historical 1/2 day walking tour with Jacquiline Alio, highly recommend.
If you want to read my 2013 trip report for more details, just click my name.
Have a wonderful trip. Be sure to try granita in every flavor, the marizpan cookies and pastries, the Nero d'Avolo, and eat as much seafood as humanly possible.
Buon viaggio!
Jun 23rd, 2014, 07:16 PM
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thanks everyone for your replies... i have modified things a bit and am now thinking of flying into Catania and trying to visit both Taormina and Ortigia without a car... Any advice or comments on how doable that is? I would plan to spend 2 nights in Taormina and 3 maybe 4 in Ortigia...
So the itinerary would be:
Taormina - 2 nights
Ortigia - 3 nights
Agrigento - 2 nights
Selinunte - 2 nights
Erice - 3 nights (to include zo lingaro and Segesta on our way there?)
Palermo - 4 nights (with a day trip to Cefalu)
So the itinerary would be:
Taormina - 2 nights
Ortigia - 3 nights
Agrigento - 2 nights
Selinunte - 2 nights
Erice - 3 nights (to include zo lingaro and Segesta on our way there?)
Palermo - 4 nights (with a day trip to Cefalu)
Jun 23rd, 2014, 09:17 PM
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@ gertie -- I did not use public transport for Piazza Armerina and hope I didn't give the suggestion that I did!
I started in Palermo, and after a few days there, picked up a rental car for 3 days. I went to Segesta and Selinunte before spending a night in Agrigento. I visited the Valley of the Temples and museum and then drove to Enna for the night. I visited the Villa Romana del Casale on my way to Caltigirone, where I spent a night. And then I returned the car in Siracusa, just blocks from Ortygia, the next morning. I did the rest of my trip (Ortygia, Noto, Taormina, Lipari...) by public transportation.
But do some checking: I'm pretty sure that you can get to Piazza Armerina by bus (from maybe Catania and/or Siracusa and/or Caltagirone and/or Enna???) and then take a bus or taxi....
Good luck!
I started in Palermo, and after a few days there, picked up a rental car for 3 days. I went to Segesta and Selinunte before spending a night in Agrigento. I visited the Valley of the Temples and museum and then drove to Enna for the night. I visited the Villa Romana del Casale on my way to Caltigirone, where I spent a night. And then I returned the car in Siracusa, just blocks from Ortygia, the next morning. I did the rest of my trip (Ortygia, Noto, Taormina, Lipari...) by public transportation.
But do some checking: I'm pretty sure that you can get to Piazza Armerina by bus (from maybe Catania and/or Siracusa and/or Caltagirone and/or Enna???) and then take a bus or taxi....
Good luck!
Jun 26th, 2014, 03:28 PM
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Interesting options are emerging - am now thinking I could fly into Catania - use public transport to visit Taorimina for 2 days, same down to Syracusa/Ortigia... and then pick up a rental car on our way to Agrigento (and drop it off when we arrive in Palermo)... Any comments on this idea?
Jun 26th, 2014, 03:46 PM
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IMO, a car would be a decided encumbrance in Taormina, Siracusa/Ortygia, and Palermo. I had no problems using public transportation except for that middle stretch, described above. And others have visited Sicily without a car at all. I only used one to give me a bit more flexibility outside the cities.
Jun 26th, 2014, 04:41 PM
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Yes, I visited Sicily without a car last time. I will not have a car this time either but like kja says, the middle bit is a challenge without one. However, I have found some buses and hope it all works out! I would agree that a car is a liability in the cities.
Jun 26th, 2014, 04:59 PM
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I really appreciate everyone's advice... am landing on this revised itinerary:
Flying from Brindisi-Rome-Catania - public transport to Taormina for 2 nights
Train from Taormina - Siracusa to stay in Ortygia 3 nights
Rent a car on the way out of town to tour Agrigento 2 nights, Selinunte 2 nights, Erice 3 nights
Drop car at airport in Palermo
4 nights in Palermo, day trip to Cefalu
I still have an extra night - could add it to Taormina if i want to see Mt Etna? Or maybe overnight in Cefalu?
Anyway, it is shaping up and i am so appreciative of everyone's assistance... Grazie
Flying from Brindisi-Rome-Catania - public transport to Taormina for 2 nights
Train from Taormina - Siracusa to stay in Ortygia 3 nights
Rent a car on the way out of town to tour Agrigento 2 nights, Selinunte 2 nights, Erice 3 nights
Drop car at airport in Palermo
4 nights in Palermo, day trip to Cefalu
I still have an extra night - could add it to Taormina if i want to see Mt Etna? Or maybe overnight in Cefalu?
Anyway, it is shaping up and i am so appreciative of everyone's assistance... Grazie
Jun 26th, 2014, 05:42 PM
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"could add it to Taormina if i want to see Mt Etna?"
From Taormina, you can a tour that includes the impressive and unusual Gole Alcantara and Mt. Etna. You'll be back in Taormina around the time that day-trippers leave -- bonus!
Or, depending on what your exact plans are, you could add the time to Ortygia so you can take a day trip to Noto. Or were you planning to visit there after you pick up your rental?
I trust you are planning to stop at the Villa Romana del Casale on your way from Ortygia to Agrigento? DEFINITELY worth while!
From Taormina, you can a tour that includes the impressive and unusual Gole Alcantara and Mt. Etna. You'll be back in Taormina around the time that day-trippers leave -- bonus!
Or, depending on what your exact plans are, you could add the time to Ortygia so you can take a day trip to Noto. Or were you planning to visit there after you pick up your rental?
I trust you are planning to stop at the Villa Romana del Casale on your way from Ortygia to Agrigento? DEFINITELY worth while!
Jul 1st, 2014, 06:48 PM
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now i am wondering whether we can visit agrigento en route to Selinunte? ie visit the ruins but not stay overnight? Advisable?
The idea would be to stay closer to Villa Romana del Casale so we can get there early in the morning before the hordes (although in mid October should we expect hordes?)... then next day head early again to Agrigento to tour, then spend 2 nights in Selinunte...
Am also curious about advice re: train vs car from Taormina to Siracusa (we would only need our car for one day to tour noto area) and the day we leave, so am now thinking perhaps we might as well just rent it leaving taormina...
The idea would be to stay closer to Villa Romana del Casale so we can get there early in the morning before the hordes (although in mid October should we expect hordes?)... then next day head early again to Agrigento to tour, then spend 2 nights in Selinunte...
Am also curious about advice re: train vs car from Taormina to Siracusa (we would only need our car for one day to tour noto area) and the day we leave, so am now thinking perhaps we might as well just rent it leaving taormina...
Jul 1st, 2014, 07:00 PM
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"whether we can visit agrigento en route to Selinunte? ie visit the ruins but not stay overnight? Advisable?"
IMO, decidedly NOT advisable. The ruins in Agrigento easily take 6 or 7 hours, plus an hour or two for its excellent museum, plus an hour or so to roam its medieval streets. YMMV.
"The idea would be to stay closer to Villa Romana del Casale so we can get there early in the morning before the hordes (although in mid October should we expect hordes?)'
IMO, it would be better to deal with the unlikely crowds at the Villa Romana del Casale in mid-October than to risk short-changing Agrigento. Just my opinion.
"we would only need our car for one day to tour Noto area'
There is an easy, frequent bus connection between Siracusa/Ortygia and Noto. No need for a car for that. And there is easy public transportation from Taormina to Siracusa. A car will be a decided encumbrance in Taormina and in Siracusa.
IMO, decidedly NOT advisable. The ruins in Agrigento easily take 6 or 7 hours, plus an hour or two for its excellent museum, plus an hour or so to roam its medieval streets. YMMV.
"The idea would be to stay closer to Villa Romana del Casale so we can get there early in the morning before the hordes (although in mid October should we expect hordes?)'
IMO, it would be better to deal with the unlikely crowds at the Villa Romana del Casale in mid-October than to risk short-changing Agrigento. Just my opinion.
"we would only need our car for one day to tour Noto area'
There is an easy, frequent bus connection between Siracusa/Ortygia and Noto. No need for a car for that. And there is easy public transportation from Taormina to Siracusa. A car will be a decided encumbrance in Taormina and in Siracusa.
