Sicily in 3 Weeks

Old Jun 6th, 2017, 02:51 PM
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Sicily in 3 Weeks

Just starting to plan out a hoped for wonderful 20 days in Sicily starting in Catania October 10 and ending up in Palermo October 30. I would love to have any suggestions on how to split up our time.

We are active hikers and love all good things food, wine, culture, history. We're prepared to rent a car, take the bus, you name it (have hitchhiked in the 70's so I'll pass on that for now.).

Thanks for any tips.
Philip
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Old Jun 6th, 2017, 03:57 PM
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Philip--

You may want to take a look at the long trip report I wrote. Our profile is very similar to yours, and we visited at nearly the exact same time of year you plan to visit, flying in to Catania and out of Palermo. We took the bus to Ortygia from the Catania airport and then picked up a rental car right before we left Ortygia. We kept the car until our arrival in Palermo.

Here is how we broke down our stay:


5 nights Ortygia Oct. 7-11 http://www.dicasainsicilia.com/riva-levante---veranda/
3 nights Modica Oct. 12-14 Casa della Zodiaco B&B apartment
2 nights Piazza Armerina Oct. 15-16 Dimora del Conte B&B
3 nights Mazara del Vallo Oct. 17-19 Homeaway 6640692
1 night Erice Oct. 20 Erice Pietre Antiche B&B apartment
5 nights Palermo Oct. 21-25 http://www.vrbo.com/1133463a

Here is the link to the trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...-is-doable.cfm
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Old Jun 6th, 2017, 04:33 PM
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Hello Phillip,

For another similar length of trip but with a different itinerary, click on my name for my 2013 trip.

Personally I find it extremely helpful to read others' detailed reports. It gives me ideas, some idea of what is possible, as well as what I might also like, or dislike.

I had lots of input for my trip since it was so long in the tue planning, but the three who most inspired me were bobthenavigator and thursdayd, and apprilliacs. You can search by their names for their TRs.


Happy planning and come back with more questions! Sicily and her people are wonderful!
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Old Jun 6th, 2017, 05:32 PM
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Thanks for the kind words Dayle - here's the link:

http://www.fodors.com/community/euro...ing-sicily.cfm

It's nice to see someone taking a good amount of time to visit Sicily, there's so much to see that you can't do it justice in just ten days or so.

Friends of mine, who use public transport and love to hike, were there early last year. Start here for their blog:

http://meckleyearth.blogspot.com/201...ily-italy.html
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Old Jun 7th, 2017, 06:13 AM
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Fabulous report, thursday!! Sorry I missed it the first time around.

I'm heading back to Sicily for a month in September and can't wait. Reading your wonderful report only made me more excited about going.

Did you get to see the salt pans in Trapani? I've been fascinated by them, have seen so many beautiful sunset photos, so they're on my list for this trip.


travelon, there's also a great report floating on this board by progol, called "A Short but Selective Report on Sicily". Check it out for lots of good information.
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Old Jun 7th, 2017, 07:01 AM
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Thanks panecott. I only saw the salt pans from Erice, not up close. Next time....
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Old Jun 7th, 2017, 06:01 PM
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panecott,

I did drive out to the salt pans. It was interesting to see the windmills and how they were used. Yes, I got a few very nice pictures, although it was mid afternoon.
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Old Jun 7th, 2017, 07:24 PM
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As you mention you like to hike, Cefalu' is a nice day trip from Sicily, with a lovely walk up La Rocca: http://www.wondersofsicily.com/cefalu-rocca.htm .
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Old Jun 8th, 2017, 04:37 AM
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Thanks, Dayle.

I will be in Castelvetrano/Selinunte for several days and was planning a drive from there to the salt pans. Movia, a small historic island across from the salt pans, was recommended to me so I'll make a day of it.

Which direction did you drive from to get to the salt pans, and was it challenging? I don't care much for city driving in Italy and I've read that Trapani's traffic is particularly bad.

The autostrada goes directly from Trapani to where I'm staying near Castelvetrano, so I might get brave and stay for the sunset...or maybe I'll plan on spending a night in Trapani.
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Old Jun 8th, 2017, 07:05 AM
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Hi Philip,

we spent 10 days in Sicily last September and limited ourselves to the east of th island as it was too little time to try to do it all, so I envy you.

We spent 3 nights in Ortygia, 2 in Ragusa, 2 in Piazza Armerina, and 3 in Taormina. Of those, Ortyigia is the place which we liked the best, and Taormina the least.

if I had 20 days in Sicily, and knew what I know now, I would extend my stay in Ortyiga by at least one night, spend 3-4 nights in one of the Hill towns [Modica is a good idea as you can stay in Modica Bassa thus avoiding one lot of those hills twice a day], 2 nights in P. Armerina to see the Villa Casale [and spending some time en route in Caltagirone [which is not just about the staircase that goes up to the cathedral, but that is certainly worth seeing] and then head west, which is the part where others will have to help you.

my TR is not in the same class as the others here, but if you think it might help, just click on my screen name to find it. [Warnng - it contains a lot of grumbling about the Sicilian traffic!]
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Old Jun 8th, 2017, 02:32 PM
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Wow! So much response and information to start to digest. Thank you all very much. I will be back with questions, I am sure, and yes we feel very fortunate to have the time to devote to exploring Sicily. You can never do it all, but we certainly aim to try to do a lot!
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Old Jun 8th, 2017, 04:56 PM
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IMO, 3 weeks is a time-frame that is well suited to Sicily, but even so, you will need to be selective! So my first and strongest suggestion would be to consult at least one really good guidebook. I thought the Michelin Green Guide and Rough Guide the best when I planned my time on this magnificent island. I didn’t file a trip report on my time there, but have commented extensively on the many, many planning threads on Sicily posted in the last decade, so you’ll find lots of comments if you look at them, too. Enjoy!
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Old Jun 27th, 2017, 02:18 PM
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So our itinerary is starting to take shape!. First dilema is about Taormina. We've read a lot about it both ways. We expect to spend a night or two in a tiny mountain town on the way to Mt. Etna so other than the great views of Etna in Taormina and the Greek ampitheater are we really missing a lot by not going? Is this a mistake?
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Old Jun 27th, 2017, 03:11 PM
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I am currently working on our trip report for our 3 weeks in Sicily this past April-May...titled very creatively..."3 Weeks in Sicilia"!! As for your question about Taormina, I haven't written that part yet, but we spent 2 nights there and thought it was a charming town. We used our day to do a day trip to Mt Etna and the Gambino winery, which all was fabulous, and we would hav eenjoyed a day just to spend in Taormina. More in the report.
If you are staying in one of the mountain villages, you may want to just skip Taormina...we didn't think the Greek amphitheater there was as impressive, except for the magnificent setting overlooking the sea, as others. As for the others responding..Dayle, Annhig, thursdaysd, and others....thank you for your help with planning OUR trip...all your reports helped immensely!!! Good travels, travelon98...Sicily is a real jewel and worth every minute of your 3 weeks!!!!
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Old Jun 27th, 2017, 03:21 PM
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I don't missing Taormina is a mistake at all. The views are excellent, but the town is a tourist trap.
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Old Jun 27th, 2017, 03:39 PM
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I found a certain charm to Taormina after day-trippers left, and the views are spectacular. I’d say it depends on what you would do during the daytime and whether you are willing to stay for just one night, or at most two.
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Old Jun 28th, 2017, 05:10 AM
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So our itinerary is starting to take shape!. First dilema is about Taormina. We've read a lot about it both ways. >>

honestly, there is so much else to see this would not be top of my list. I enjoyed the lovely view of Etna from our hotel room and the day we spent on Etna [which could just as easily have been done from somewhere else] but the town was just too touristy to be enjoyable for us. If I had my 10 nights there again, I would put Ortigia at the end of the trip so as to be close to Catania for the flight home, and head for Scilci, then Ragusa, and Piazza Armerina.

But hindsight is a wonderful thing and we had a terrific trip - glad you found the TR helpful dodi.
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Old Jun 28th, 2017, 07:11 AM
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And opinions on Isole Lipari and Stromboli via Milazzo? I had planned on a couple days in this area.
Or playing around with my potential itinerary if I drop the above I am able to substitute another day in the mountains driving between Zafferana Etnae through Cesaro to Sant'Agata de Militello and a day driving around wine country between Erice and Selinunte.
Any thoughts on the two possibilities?
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Old Jun 28th, 2017, 07:30 AM
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What we enjoyed about Taormina; a wee bit of pampering, relaxing for a few days after 3 weeks touring on the mainland, some good restaurants, gorgeous views, the gardens, quiet evenings, Isola Bella.

We also visited Catania from Taormina. I think Taormina is a very personal decision, we loved it, others not so much.

With 3 weeks, you definitely need to visit Agrigento. Even in October it could be very hot there, and the Valley of the Temples is a very exposed sight. We tried to keep our visit either early or later but not the hottest noon time.
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Old Jun 28th, 2017, 07:53 AM
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With island destinations and mountain excursions in October you need to be flexible with your plans. Sicily can get windy storms sweeping the islands that make ferry crossings impossible at that time of year, or mountain hiking unwise. All that really means is that you need some "plan Bs" if you want rural or sea-crossing excursions, and cancellation friendly hotel reservations. You can easily come up with last-minute alternate lodgings in Sicily in October.

As for Taormina, I found the Greek theatre a revelation that helped me understand Greek theaters in depth, as never before -- and I had been to ancient theaters in Greece. I share the negative view of Taormina's town culture, and would never stay there again, but I will never regret the hour I spend inside Taormina's Greek theater, and certainly never forget it. I have not seen all the sights of Greek antiquity in Siciliy, but of those I did sea, Taormina and the underpinnings of the Duomo in Ortygia were astonishing to me.
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