Sicily - having second thoughts, please comment.

I absolutely loved Sicily, and was surprised to find I hadn't anticipated that. I even loved Palermo, but that was because we were there for the festina of Santa Rosalia (you may want to skip Palemero though). What is to love? Agrigento is you like Greek ruins, Taomorina if you like elegant views and shopping with small restaurants tucked into back alleys, Cefalu for the combination of beach and old town walks, and my favorite Erice, a stone town high on a cliff (you can drive or take a cable car up, but do stay a few nights) with each little church hosting a different museum display, architecture from the phoenicians on, with an emphasis on the medieval. My biggest complaint: no one moved from the sidewalks to let me pass (different cultural norms) but did for my tall husband, and the traffic in the towns is to be aware of. The people were friendly, the food out of this world, and the tourist sites marvelous.

Lily,

Some people just LOVE Disneyland and others hate it! Go, enjoy Sicily, and decide for yourself!

Buon viaggio

Maybe thursdaysd's trip report will help you decide if you haven't read it already.
http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/crumbling-palazzos-and-creamy-cannoli---savoring-sicily.cfm

Lily, my only regret inspite of all the times my late husband and I spent in Italy is that we did not go to Sicily. That was due to all the negative comments made by friends of ours in the US that were from Italy and the same dour comments made by friends in Italy. To this day I hear negative comments about Sicily. I have no desire to visit there on my own but I sure wish my husband and I had done so. So my thoughts are if you feel attracted to Sicily do go and determin for yourself whether it was worth the visit or not. Best wishes to you.

You are all so lovely, thanks.

Lily,
We've been to Sicily twice and especially enjoyed Siracusa, Taormina and the Aeolian islands. Driving is only for the very brave (such as my husband)but it was truly magical. We also have traveled to Europe numerous times and found that Sicily was indeed very special.
Lisa

I spent only three days in Sicily and want very much to return. Those temples in Agrigento are, IMHO, worth a trip around the world to see. Sicily is exciting, interesting and beautiful. I also enjoyed the food. People I met were friendly, kind and helpful. The only thing I agree on were the drivers being a little nuts.

I've read many, many negative opinions about Naples too, but I find it one of the most "colorful" places I've ever been, with beautiful architecture and great food, and lovely people. I love that chaotic part of Southern Italy. Hey, I've even read negative opinions about Venice. What for one person is lively and colorful, may be crowded and seedy to another.

From what you say about yourself, I think you would love Sicily.

MY husband and I go to Sicily at least twice a year and are considering buying something there. I send clients there on a regular basis and everyone of them has come back thrilled by their experience.

The negative comments were by one person, I am certain you will get plenty of positive ones in this thread.


Go and enjoy (by the way, the food, scenery, history and wine are amazing!)!

Sicily is one of our favorite places. The antiquities, the history, the food, the natural beauty, and the insanity that is driving are all part of an extraordinary island.

I'll add my voice to the "pro Sicily" lobby. I spent a couple of weeks there in 2005 and loved it. I would rate Selinunte, Agrigento, Segeste, Monreale, Noto, Taormina and Piazza Armarina among the very best places I have visited in Italy. It is definitely on my list of places to go back to.

Sicily is absolutely fantastic. The diversity is amazing. It has something for everyone. From active volcanoes to beaches, canyons, deserts, cliffs, papyrus rivers, islands, busy cities, hill towns,(even a ghost town), ancient sites, museums, castles, incredible views and fantastic food. Most negatives I have heard are from people who have never been, and the ones from people who have been, usually seem to come from people who expect a perfect Disney World created just for their needs. Sicily is REAL. It's difficult to find a place the size of Sicily that has more great scenery and sites. There is so much to see and do, so you need to do a lot of research. I can't count how many times I've been, and I'm still finding more to see. Check out the Aeolians for island hopping, and renting scooters. Also, Palermo is a great city, and deserves a few days. Just a note to explain driving there - ANYTHING can come out of ANYWHERE at ANY TIME at ANY SPEED.

Have a look at my photos of Sicily and judge for yourself. They are at:www.pbase.com/annforcier/sicily_2005

My trip report is here: http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/trip-report---strolling-sightseeing-sitting-sipping-shooting-and-shopping-in-sicily-stresa-and-switz.cfm

Loved Sicily. It was one of the few tours we took and went with friends. Richard

I went to Sicily for Christmas with my mother and brother in 1999 and had a wonderful time. The food and scenery were amazing. I would love to go back. I don't remember the driving being particularly hairy, but it was 10 yrs ago!

Don't let one person dissuade you. I personally wouldn't go to Disney unless you paid me big bucks and can't understand the attraction, but there are many people who would think I'm crazy.

Here are 74 reasons to go to Sicily---enjoy !

http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/showgallery.php?cat=3828

As I indicated on the other thread, I had a wonderful experience in Sicily - I am very, very, very glad that I went. My only regret is that I spent only 2 weeks there. But people travel for many different reasons and enjoy different things, so (as with almost any possible destination) some people will love it and some will not. As many people who have responded to this thread have noted, there is an incredible array of different things to see and experience in Sicily, so some things may appeal to you and others might not. You undoubtedly had reasons to want to go to Sicily - I'm not sure in makes sense to change your plans based on another person's experience, good or bad. Hope that helps!

Oh, I loved Sicily! It's one of the most beautiful places in the world; the people are kind and welcoming; the history is amazing... I would go back - and I seldom say that about any place I travel. Click my name for my trip report - "Bumbling my way to and through Italy..." lots of pictures of Sicily linked in the report.

I hope you go!

Cyn

Sicily was so different from the other places we had been in Italy, and that was one of the reasons we really enjoyed it! I did read some of the negative comments about driving in Sicily and can say that we had only one "difficult" experience - i.e. narrow roads on the way up to Mt. Etna. Not at all unlike many other areas we had driven in Italy. As a matter of fact, the highways were spectacular! Very new, not much traffic (we were there in June), very easy to get from place to place.

About the only place that I was not that taken with was Taormina. Pretty, yes, but a little lacking in "soul". We really liked Palermo though - partly because we had steeled ourselves to NOT be impressed. It had so much more to offer than I thought, I would love to go back. The Greek ruins that we saw really were amazing and the people we met were so friendly. Very much like what you'll find in the smaller Italian cities. I think you'll have a great trip.

Not that I need to comment with all the above posters, but YES A MILLION TIMES YES go to Sicily. Just look at the photos the above posters posted! I've been to all those places. We even love Palermo!!! There isn't one thing I don't like about Sicily. It's also very drivable. Renting a car is a must.

Lily

It may be my posts that you refer - I will not go over our experiences but for gods sake go....

Sicily is a destination that rattles your senses and maybe after the time we have had recently that's just what we weren't looking for - we have two weeks booked in the Bahamas in February - retrospectively we should have taken that trip now.

After being back a week we are sure that if the stars align and too many individual experiences start to spiral down its possible to have a bad time anywhere. I think after seeing most of the Med our expectations were high - in fact the highest of anywhere we had visited. The image of Sicily is everything we love in life add the spice of its dark side and this should have been a dream trip. I think we spent our week comparing Sicily to other places and maybe that was very unfair. I also think too many logistical issues got in the way.

Ironically we indirectly started a heated arguement between two other couples on the connecting flight back from Milan to Manchester. We mentioned our experiences in Sicily to a couple who then bemoaned Amalfi as being "a dump". A second couple heard this and so the discussion went on and on....

Personally, I love Tuscany but refuse to go within 20 miles of Florence.

A lot of southern european destinations rely on 30oC to carry their beauty. In a cloudy 16oC October it just isn't the same.

We will spend time in future on the west of Sicily most definitely when the weather is better.

ps talking of the connecting flight - we spent the first two days of our trip with our friends in Torino which is widely regarded as the most conservative (small c) city in Italy - this again was probably an unfair introduction to the cultural diversity of Sicily.

"Renting a car is a must." While having a car can facilitate seeing parts of Sicily within a limited time frame, I disagree that it is a "must". Search this board for GAC's very helpful postings about using public transportation to tour Sicily.

Chiming in here to say that we also loved Sicily. We've been in March and May--never had those 30 degree C temperatures markrosy talks about, but loved the cooler, gorgeous clear days (got a little rain, too, which we took in stride). We had a car for the 11-day March trip and found the driving to be delightful for the most part (avoid driving in Palermo, but don't avoid Palermo!). For the May trip we focused on the Aeolian Islands, which are fantastic. Other highlights: Segesta, Ortygia, Piazza Armerina, Selinunte, Scopello, Monreale, Cefalu...I could go on and on.

Your question is interesting because when I read the negative comments you mention, my first reaction was that they would likely turn someone off to traveling in Sicily, and I meant to respond but got busy and didn't. Glad you pursued the issue. I don't think you'll regret visiting Sicily--the more time the better!

"found the driving to be delightful" - I know there are many gushing comments made on this site but that does push to boundaries. You were clearly not on the same island. I can only assume that you mean the scenery was delightful whilst driving - to describe the average Sicilian's driving as delightful would suggest you work for the Sicilian Tourist Board.

Also visited in March and also loved it: stayed just outside Siracusa and loved Noto and Ortigia and a suburb of Palermo where we visited family. We were living in Italy (in the Abruzzo) at the time and it is very different from mainland Italy, so even if you have seen all Italy has to offer (like that could happen!) you still will enjoy the diversity of Sicily.

kja: I said driving is a must because there are many wonderful places you can't get to by train. Taking a bus and train is very restrictive in Sicily unlike the rest of Italy. Driving through the mountains, stopping in small towns and getting to some great hotels or agritourisms are impossible without a car.

Monreale not to be missed. There are a couple of good churches in Palermo as well. We stayed in Palermo and Siracusa-enjoyed the both as bases for travel. The wonderful place (sorry senior moment about the name-Casal Reale???) with the mosaics CAN be reached by bus but not so easily.

DH and I loved it also but we love quirky. I often use that word for all of Italy.

Ha ha, markrosy. I really did find driving in Sicily easy--well-maintained roads, little traffic, and, as you say, gorgeous scenery. Palermo, as I mentioned, was a bit of a challenge (we ended up driving in downtown Palermo by accident...after failing to find a parking garage on the outskirts), but elsewhere was just fine.

I'm a confident driver, and I have a good navigator next to me. Maybe that makes the difference?

Thanks to all of you for your wonderful comments. I originally chose Sicily for our trip to Europe next year because of the recommnedations of a large group of Dutch people we spent an evening with in Portugal in September. They were so absolutely entranced with Sicily that I thought we must go. And we will go now thanks to all of you and your thoughtful feedback.

Loved it, loved it, loved it........

If you like wonderful contrasting scenery of mountains, azure sea, unspoilt pale-ochre villages and friedly welcoming people, it's a must! I recently visited Selinunte, Erice and Castelvetrano and had a wonderful time. You're welcome to read and see more at lifefromtheedge.blogspot.com Enjoy!

Oops, of course should read friendly, of course!

We spent two weeks in western sicily for the most part it was beaufutiful, the food was good and the people nice. To us it had a different feel than Northern Italy.

I was upset about all the garbage which was on every beach we went, and in all public places including Segesta and seluninte (sp?).

Overall it was an ok trip but we would rather go somewhere else.

This is an interesting topic because I spent time in Palermo and the Aeolians in Sept and while I was pleasantly surprised by how much I liked Palermo, I didn't care for the Aeolians. Everyone told me how amazing they would be and I've no doubt that under different circumstances I would have enjoyed them more but the few days I spent there were probably the only ones I'll ever spend.

The mosaics of Monreale were beautiful and shouldn't be missed if in Palermo. The beach at Mondello on the other hand..yuck! Another thing that was hyped to me and fell short. There are so many different areas, towns to visit in Sicily and I will be back to see those in the future.

aprillilacs - I am going to agree with markrosy about the driving. I have driven in many areas of Italy, and would say that the driving in Sicily is easily the worst I have experienced (and I include the outskirts of Naples in that).

Once out of the cities and on the main roads it was fine in the cities themselves, particularly Palermo, it was utter chaos

The road between Catania and Siracusa was probably the most dangerous in terms of lunatic driving that I have ever experienced (three abreast overtaking by large trucks doing >120kph in a 50 zone springs to mind).

Having said that, when I return, I will still hire a car.

I love Sicily too (including Palermo), have been 3 times, including (the 2nd time) for our honeymoon. If I could only holiday in one place for the rest of my life, it would be Sicily. The only part of Sicily I wouldn't bother with again is Cefalu but lots of people love that too. DH has no problem with driving there but we did dump the car on arrival in Palermo.

Having said how much we enjoyed it, I will suggest that you be careful crossing the street. Give motorcycles a chance to stop as they seemed to run the lights when cars didn't.

I have told the story of our bus trip to Agrigento: the police car blaring past us with sirens going came to a screeching halt to let an old woman and her family go slowly across the road!

Absolutely love Sicily - could never live there, but I love to visit. Don't follow the opinions of one unhappy traveller, go to see it for yourself. You will certainly not be disappointed with the scenes, sites or food in beautiful Sicily. Buon viaggio!

TDudette, you mean Monreale. (I so identify with your senior moment.) And, yes, it certainly is well worth seeing.

We are real Italianophiles- go as often as possible and we loved Sicily. It has an edge that's lacking in other parts of Italy with the possible exception of Naples. We stayed in Palermo, Cefalu, Erice, Agrigento and Siracusa. All different and charming in their own ways. Go to the Roman villa at Piazza Armerino, the Greek temples at Agrigento and the one at Segesta, and enjoy the lovely seaside town of Cefalu. There's so much to see and do & the food and wine are great too.

No, Mimar, it's a ruins with mosaics or frescos showing athletes. Thanks, though. I'll get my notes. Monreale I shall never forget!

It's the Casale Reale near Piazza Armerina.

As I mentioned before a car is a must. Leave it outside Messina or Palermo but drive into the villages. Driving is very easy. We have driven around and through all of Sicily with no problems except for the occational traffic jam of a herd of sheep or goats in the road.

The market in Catania is not to be missed.

"I'm a confident driver, and I have a good navigator next to me. Maybe that makes the difference?"

Nope - I'm a VERY confident driver with a crap navigator - I am always capable of a handbrake turn just as I get the "oh that was the junction we should have taken"

Problem was the apes driving around us.

Willit - experienced a classic - that autostrada between Catania and Siracusa was subject to a large local diversion down a single lane road. Now this really pissed the locals off as the tailback was 1.5 hours. Only it wasn't for some bright sparks - at one stage we were trundling along in the queue whilst being overtaken on both the INSIDE and outside - those on the inside were in the ditch/field, those on the outside simply drove on the wrong side of the road which caused 40 foot trucks which were coming the other way scream to a halt.

Funny thing out of all this - no one (other than me) actually pipped as a rebuke only as a "I am here" warning. It's as if the mafioso lawless way of life applies to the roads and those who show the most intiative without getting killed earn the mosr respect.

Incidently, don't forget that most of the gushing about the island applies to the Sicily of pre 1850. Most of the social and architecture fabric of the island since then has been very very ugly.

Thank you Caroline! Taking a bus is possible but more time-consuming.

I can vouch for the post below re: Taormina, Sicily. Absolutely gorgeous..it's like a fairytale..A must see...the only other city I was in in Sicily (father's family from there) was Messina..the port city..it was ok..but Taormina,breathtaking as I mentioned...

I think if you go on youtube..it has videos...

lily, I agree with above posters - GO!

To get in the mood you may want to read the quintessential novel of Sicily - THE LEOPARD by di Lampedusa.

Enjoy!

Yes, TDudette, as Caroline says, the Villa Romana at Casale, near Piazza Armerina. Both the villa and Monreale are worth a journey per the Michelin guide.

Sicily is one of the most exciting places we've been to recently, it's like Italy used to be before it was so thoroughly "discovered" by hordes of tourists, including me, I know. While a car is convenient, we went everywhere by public transport and our richest people-watching was on buses and trains - schoolkids, old women and men (who really do kiss each other on the cheeks, just like the films.) The food is wonderful, really the best in Italy, but then I do like fish and vegs.

Lily,

I visited Sicily just this September (09.) Like you, I had read the many negative reports on driving there. Reports be damned, myself and a friend decided to rent an auto and see the island close up.

First let me state that the trip (5 days) was trouble free. We had a wonderful visit.
The natural beauty of Sicily is amazing.

Second, if you plan on driving I advise two things: One, get yourself a good set of road maps. I made out the itinerary before leaving home and used google maps that I printed up as reference. That worked out just fine. Two: Make certain you have a navigator that can read maps and has familiarized themselves with Italian road signs and Italian road "habits."

Driving in the lager cities does get hectic but you need to remember to "go with the flow" and you will be alright. Read up a bit on road signs and freeway (autostrada) do's and don'ts and you will have the time of your life in beautiful Sicily. Goda!

I thought I would update this post as my husband and I did travel to Sicily for 2 weeks last month. And we absolutely loved it - from Taormina to Ortegia to Cefalu. Unfortunatley we didn't get to Palermo as planned because we were enjoying ourselves so much elsewhere.

Some highlights - a cooking lesson at Licchio's restaurant in Taormina; an evening with a violin virtuoso at the Greek Theatre in Taormina; the antiquities in Syracuse; Fontaine Blanche beach outside of Syracuse with a wood burning pizza oven at the snackbar; La Corte degli Angeli Bed and Breakfast in Ortegia; our house in San Ambrogia outside of Cefalu; the food, the wine, and the people, and more and more.

We did drive, and although the scooters are very annoying and really own the road in any of the towns, it really wasn't so bad.

On our way home, we spent one night in Rome. I loved Rome when we first visited in 2005 but this time I found it overrun with tourists. The contrast between Sicily and Rome was astounding although, to be fair, the cities and towns we visited in Sicily are much smaller than Rome.

Thanks to you all for your encouragement to go to Sicily. It may be our favorite place in Europe now although our friends say we have said about every European country after each of our trips to Europe!

Glad you enjoyed it! Thanks for letting us know.

Thanks for the follow up Lily - and I am so glad you enjoyed the trip!

Cyn

Super, Lily! Sounded wonderful.

I'm so happy you rented a car. Everyone is different in their opinions, but I really don't understand what problems people have with driving in Sicily. Why go by a bus or train schedule when you can be on your way and stop in little places or road stands on your way?

Sicily is Italy 40 years ago before the tourists ruined it!


Realizing that you have already done your trip but:

Leaving next week for my 4th trip to Sicily driving with my 25 year old daughter who studied abroad in Ortigia/Siracusa for a semester 4 years ago.One will never regret their trip to Sicily with the wonderful scenery,food,people and history.

Sicily is unique. If you are looking for something authentic, Sicily is for you. If you expect more of the same, Sicily is not for you. Already most of the comments in this thread do the job. Enjoy if you decide to go.

Thanks for the follow up Lily, we've never been yet but it is on my bucket list.