SICILY: A wonderful week of food and wine
Jul 14th, 2013, 07:13 PM
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SICILY: A wonderful week of food and wine
Sicily Trip Report
After a week and a half in Greece, and before heading to Rome, my husband and I spent a week in Sicily. We have traveled throughout Italy for several years now, but we had never spent any time in Sicily. We were eager to experience the food, wine, and culture of Sicily, but we only had one week, so we focused on Eastern Sicily.
In a nutshell, we flew in and out of Catania and rented a car. We were traveling in late June, and the weather couldn’t have been nicer -- between 75 and 80 degrees every day.
Our itinerary looked like this:
Taormina -- 2 nights at Hotel Imperiale
Panarea -- 2 nights at Hotel Cincotta
Vittoria (near Ragusa) -- 2 nights at COS winery
Siracusa -- 1 night at Palazzo delle Sale
DAY 1: TAORMINA
We arrived at Catania Airport a little before noon on a Monday in late June. Thank goodness we rented from Sixt instead of Avis or Hertz, as those lines were out the door and curled around the building, whereas no one was in line at Sixt! Furthermore, we were very happy with our Alfa Romeo Jullietta -- which fit 2 large suitcases and a carry-on all concealed in the trunk -- and cost less than $400 for the whole week.
HOTEL IMPERIALE -- check in was seamless, and we were thrilled that our room was ready at just a little past noon. We were welcomed with champagne and fresh fruit, delivered to our room soon after checking in. We had a sea view room with a tiny balcony. The room was small but beautifully decorated and practically laid out, with plenty of room for our hefty luggage in the large bathroom. The shower and products were great! The view from the balcony was breathtaking. The pool area was lovely and the fitness center had the same amazing views. This place was a great value in an expensive town. The service was outstanding and the location was very central. Everyone went out of their way to be friendly and helpful, even offering us breakfast really early on our day of departure an hour before breakfast actually started. In fact, the breakfast may have been the best we’ve had in Italy. I look forward to staying here again and highly recommend it. It was an outstanding experience!
After checking in, we headed to lunch...
L’INCONTRO -- we had a lovely lunch here. Very friendly service and excellent food and wine.
After lunch and a nap, we headed out to explore Taormina for a couple of hours. The weather was amazing -- mid 70s -- and the town is as beautiful and charming as I had heard, albeit not quite as crowded in the late afternoon. We explored the Greek Theater (wow!), the public gardens (gorgeous!) and walked down the length of Corso Umberto through the lovely piazzas (lots of great shopping!). The views were unbelievable, and it was hard to not constantly take photos!
Later in the evening, it was even quieter. We were surprised to be only two of probably 5 people at the famous WUNDERBAR for cocktails. This is truly a spectacular setting -- the piazza and views of the sea are amazing.
AL DUOMO -- dinner was fantastic here. Again, very friendly service and excellent food, but an outstanding atmosphere, as well. We sat out on a terrace overlooking a lovely piazza and church. In fact, a choir was singing in the church, and we could hear them from our table!
We were thrilled with our first day and evening in Sicily!
After a week and a half in Greece, and before heading to Rome, my husband and I spent a week in Sicily. We have traveled throughout Italy for several years now, but we had never spent any time in Sicily. We were eager to experience the food, wine, and culture of Sicily, but we only had one week, so we focused on Eastern Sicily.
In a nutshell, we flew in and out of Catania and rented a car. We were traveling in late June, and the weather couldn’t have been nicer -- between 75 and 80 degrees every day.
Our itinerary looked like this:
Taormina -- 2 nights at Hotel Imperiale
Panarea -- 2 nights at Hotel Cincotta
Vittoria (near Ragusa) -- 2 nights at COS winery
Siracusa -- 1 night at Palazzo delle Sale
DAY 1: TAORMINA
We arrived at Catania Airport a little before noon on a Monday in late June. Thank goodness we rented from Sixt instead of Avis or Hertz, as those lines were out the door and curled around the building, whereas no one was in line at Sixt! Furthermore, we were very happy with our Alfa Romeo Jullietta -- which fit 2 large suitcases and a carry-on all concealed in the trunk -- and cost less than $400 for the whole week.
HOTEL IMPERIALE -- check in was seamless, and we were thrilled that our room was ready at just a little past noon. We were welcomed with champagne and fresh fruit, delivered to our room soon after checking in. We had a sea view room with a tiny balcony. The room was small but beautifully decorated and practically laid out, with plenty of room for our hefty luggage in the large bathroom. The shower and products were great! The view from the balcony was breathtaking. The pool area was lovely and the fitness center had the same amazing views. This place was a great value in an expensive town. The service was outstanding and the location was very central. Everyone went out of their way to be friendly and helpful, even offering us breakfast really early on our day of departure an hour before breakfast actually started. In fact, the breakfast may have been the best we’ve had in Italy. I look forward to staying here again and highly recommend it. It was an outstanding experience!
After checking in, we headed to lunch...
L’INCONTRO -- we had a lovely lunch here. Very friendly service and excellent food and wine.
After lunch and a nap, we headed out to explore Taormina for a couple of hours. The weather was amazing -- mid 70s -- and the town is as beautiful and charming as I had heard, albeit not quite as crowded in the late afternoon. We explored the Greek Theater (wow!), the public gardens (gorgeous!) and walked down the length of Corso Umberto through the lovely piazzas (lots of great shopping!). The views were unbelievable, and it was hard to not constantly take photos!
Later in the evening, it was even quieter. We were surprised to be only two of probably 5 people at the famous WUNDERBAR for cocktails. This is truly a spectacular setting -- the piazza and views of the sea are amazing.
AL DUOMO -- dinner was fantastic here. Again, very friendly service and excellent food, but an outstanding atmosphere, as well. We sat out on a terrace overlooking a lovely piazza and church. In fact, a choir was singing in the church, and we could hear them from our table!
We were thrilled with our first day and evening in Sicily!
Jul 15th, 2013, 11:15 AM
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Thanks!
Texas Aggie --
I'm happy to say that the driving, parking, and navigating was really not that much different than everywhere else in Italy. The glitch we had was that the GPS in our car didn't have the addresses we needed half the time (for example, our hotel in Taormina), so mostly we used the iphone map app and google map app on my iphone. And, yes, it directed to wrong places a few times, but we assume that this is part of the adventure.
I was able to easily get a TIM sim card at the airport in Rome while changing flights to get to Catania, and so all I had to pay was 20€ for a month of free internet in italy and didn't have to rely on wifi or pay my US provider a dime.
Bon Voyage -- Panarea is coming next!
Texas Aggie --
I'm happy to say that the driving, parking, and navigating was really not that much different than everywhere else in Italy. The glitch we had was that the GPS in our car didn't have the addresses we needed half the time (for example, our hotel in Taormina), so mostly we used the iphone map app and google map app on my iphone. And, yes, it directed to wrong places a few times, but we assume that this is part of the adventure.
I was able to easily get a TIM sim card at the airport in Rome while changing flights to get to Catania, and so all I had to pay was 20€ for a month of free internet in italy and didn't have to rely on wifi or pay my US provider a dime.
Bon Voyage -- Panarea is coming next!
Jul 15th, 2013, 05:07 PM
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DAY 2: TAORMINA
After a lovely breakfast at the hotel (gorgeous buffet, as well as cooked to order eggs), we took off for our reserved wine tour/tasting...
BENANTI WINERY -- We spent a couple of wonderful hours here with Giacomo, touring the winery, tasting fantastic wine, and eating a delicious lunch of cheeses, salami, olives, and bread. Giacomo was a wealth of knowledge on Etna wines (and on Sicily as well) and the estate is beautiful. It was an outstanding experience that I highly recommend if you're in the area. It was about a 45 min drive from Taormina (faster if you don’t get lost) and a lovely way to spend the late morning/early afternoon.
After our tour and a lovely nap, we headed to explore Taormina again in the late afternoon. We got a granita at the famous Bam Bar -- not as good as gelato, in my opinion -- and then headed down to the beach on the funicular.
Isola Bella was quite picturesque, although we didn’t stay to enjoy the beach. We just took a little walk and headed back up. After reading by the hotel pool for a while, we got ready for dinner.
L’INCONTRO -- we went back to this restaurant for dinner. Somehow we had befriended the owner and agreed to do so. The food was really good, but we regretted not trying something new on our 2nd (and last) night in Taormina. In fact, while we thought this restaurant was fantastic at the time, it didn’t even compare to the food we eat in the coming days...
DAY 3: TAORMINA to PANAREA
Panarea was not easy to get to, but I can tell you it was well worth the effort.
First we drove to Milazzo from Taormina, parked at Garage delle Isole (which was easy and inexpensive -- 30€ for 2.5 days), got shuttled to the ferry, and waited an hour to board. After boarding, we got off on the 2nd stop to change ferries, and then 2 stops after that we finally landed on Panarea.
And yes, this island is oozing with charm!! All the buildings are white-washed with colorful doors and bougenvilia (sp?) are blooming and spilling everywhere. There are no cars, but you can walk everywhere. (Golf carts serve as taxis but we never needed to use one.)
HOTEL CINCOTTA
We checked into the Hotel Cincotta with ease, walking there from the port while a golf cart sent from the hotel transported our luggage. The hotel’s grounds are absolutely lovely. There are great outdoor areas to relax with beautiful views, where breakfast and cocktails or gelato is served. The staff was very friendly and accommodating. We had booked their most expensive class of rooms -- superior sea view with a private balcony -- and while the view was fantastic, we expected the rooms to be a little nicer than they were. They just didn’t match the hotel’s public areas, which are gorgeous. Don’t get me wrong, we were comfortable and the room was very practical, but it wasn’t in any way luxurious or aesthetically pleasing. We did REALLY enjoy sitting on our balcony, as we had great weather. The view, of course, was beautiful, and we enjoyed our stay very much. There was no wifi in the rooms, but the public breakfast area and terrace had free wifi. The breakfast was nice enough, and the pool area was lovely, but a bit crowded, so we never used it.
On our first afternoon, we decided to take a walk to the only beach on the island. Zimmari Beach is an easy 25-minute, picturesque walk from the hotel.
LUNCH - ZIMMARI
We had an amazing lunch here before heading down to Zimmari Beach. We started with tuna tartare and a seafood salad, then enjoyed a pasta with clams and mussels and a pasta with scorpian fish. Everything was outstanding -- including the bottle of rose, the view, and the service! We recommend this place with great enthusiasm and hope to go back one day!
The beach here was sandy and nice. We paid quite a bit for chairs and an umbrella compared to other (more posh) places in Italy, but since it’s the only beach on the island, I guess they can do what they please. We had a nice nap here and a good swim before walking back to the hotel.
DINNER - HYCESIA
We actually ate dinner here both evenings. We hadn’t planned to, but the experience was so memorable the first night, we HAD to go back. And unbelievably, the 2nd night was even better the first.
Actually, both meals were outstanding -- the crudo, the pasta, the fish -- in fact, everything we put in our mouths was delicious. Andrea, the co-owner, is so warm and gracious. On our second night, we told her we didn't want to see a menu and hoped she would bring us whatever the chef (her husband) preferred. It truly ranked up there as one of our most memorable dining experiences. We hope to return one day...
After a lovely breakfast at the hotel (gorgeous buffet, as well as cooked to order eggs), we took off for our reserved wine tour/tasting...
BENANTI WINERY -- We spent a couple of wonderful hours here with Giacomo, touring the winery, tasting fantastic wine, and eating a delicious lunch of cheeses, salami, olives, and bread. Giacomo was a wealth of knowledge on Etna wines (and on Sicily as well) and the estate is beautiful. It was an outstanding experience that I highly recommend if you're in the area. It was about a 45 min drive from Taormina (faster if you don’t get lost) and a lovely way to spend the late morning/early afternoon.
After our tour and a lovely nap, we headed to explore Taormina again in the late afternoon. We got a granita at the famous Bam Bar -- not as good as gelato, in my opinion -- and then headed down to the beach on the funicular.
Isola Bella was quite picturesque, although we didn’t stay to enjoy the beach. We just took a little walk and headed back up. After reading by the hotel pool for a while, we got ready for dinner.
L’INCONTRO -- we went back to this restaurant for dinner. Somehow we had befriended the owner and agreed to do so. The food was really good, but we regretted not trying something new on our 2nd (and last) night in Taormina. In fact, while we thought this restaurant was fantastic at the time, it didn’t even compare to the food we eat in the coming days...
DAY 3: TAORMINA to PANAREA
Panarea was not easy to get to, but I can tell you it was well worth the effort.
First we drove to Milazzo from Taormina, parked at Garage delle Isole (which was easy and inexpensive -- 30€ for 2.5 days), got shuttled to the ferry, and waited an hour to board. After boarding, we got off on the 2nd stop to change ferries, and then 2 stops after that we finally landed on Panarea.
And yes, this island is oozing with charm!! All the buildings are white-washed with colorful doors and bougenvilia (sp?) are blooming and spilling everywhere. There are no cars, but you can walk everywhere. (Golf carts serve as taxis but we never needed to use one.)
HOTEL CINCOTTA
We checked into the Hotel Cincotta with ease, walking there from the port while a golf cart sent from the hotel transported our luggage. The hotel’s grounds are absolutely lovely. There are great outdoor areas to relax with beautiful views, where breakfast and cocktails or gelato is served. The staff was very friendly and accommodating. We had booked their most expensive class of rooms -- superior sea view with a private balcony -- and while the view was fantastic, we expected the rooms to be a little nicer than they were. They just didn’t match the hotel’s public areas, which are gorgeous. Don’t get me wrong, we were comfortable and the room was very practical, but it wasn’t in any way luxurious or aesthetically pleasing. We did REALLY enjoy sitting on our balcony, as we had great weather. The view, of course, was beautiful, and we enjoyed our stay very much. There was no wifi in the rooms, but the public breakfast area and terrace had free wifi. The breakfast was nice enough, and the pool area was lovely, but a bit crowded, so we never used it.
On our first afternoon, we decided to take a walk to the only beach on the island. Zimmari Beach is an easy 25-minute, picturesque walk from the hotel.
LUNCH - ZIMMARI
We had an amazing lunch here before heading down to Zimmari Beach. We started with tuna tartare and a seafood salad, then enjoyed a pasta with clams and mussels and a pasta with scorpian fish. Everything was outstanding -- including the bottle of rose, the view, and the service! We recommend this place with great enthusiasm and hope to go back one day!
The beach here was sandy and nice. We paid quite a bit for chairs and an umbrella compared to other (more posh) places in Italy, but since it’s the only beach on the island, I guess they can do what they please. We had a nice nap here and a good swim before walking back to the hotel.
DINNER - HYCESIA
We actually ate dinner here both evenings. We hadn’t planned to, but the experience was so memorable the first night, we HAD to go back. And unbelievably, the 2nd night was even better the first.
Actually, both meals were outstanding -- the crudo, the pasta, the fish -- in fact, everything we put in our mouths was delicious. Andrea, the co-owner, is so warm and gracious. On our second night, we told her we didn't want to see a menu and hoped she would bring us whatever the chef (her husband) preferred. It truly ranked up there as one of our most memorable dining experiences. We hope to return one day...
Jul 16th, 2013, 05:41 AM
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DAY 4: PANAREA
After a leisurely breakfast overlooking Stromboli and the port, we bought panini and some other goodies (some amazing flat, tiny peaches!) at the local market and rented a motorboat for the day. It was €100 for the boat with the stronger engine, radio, and shower on board. We didn’t use the radio or shower, but the stronger engine was good since we hit some pretty strong swells heading around the island. Apparently, going around the island in a boat without stopping only takes 30 minutes. After a rough patch of swells, the sea calmed down and we had a lovely time. The coastline was quite pretty, and the Cala di Junco bay was quite picturesque. (Althoughe didn’t quite realize we were in it until after we left it and looked at the map! So then we went back and looked more closely. There was no one there, but we could see a few hikers up above in the archeological park. Afterwards, we noticed a sign INSIDE our boat that said we weren’t allowed to enter the area in a boat -- oops!)
We then anchored our boat and enjoyed the afternoon in the bay across from Zimmari Beach. (Although anchoring was not so easy as we kept drifting... and needed to re-anchor. Clearly, we are not boat people.) There were many boats enjoying the area. It was so peaceful and so beautiful! It was a great way to spend the afternoon.
After our second dinner at Hycesia, we were even happier we had taken the time to get to beautiful Panarea.
After a leisurely breakfast overlooking Stromboli and the port, we bought panini and some other goodies (some amazing flat, tiny peaches!) at the local market and rented a motorboat for the day. It was €100 for the boat with the stronger engine, radio, and shower on board. We didn’t use the radio or shower, but the stronger engine was good since we hit some pretty strong swells heading around the island. Apparently, going around the island in a boat without stopping only takes 30 minutes. After a rough patch of swells, the sea calmed down and we had a lovely time. The coastline was quite pretty, and the Cala di Junco bay was quite picturesque. (Althoughe didn’t quite realize we were in it until after we left it and looked at the map! So then we went back and looked more closely. There was no one there, but we could see a few hikers up above in the archeological park. Afterwards, we noticed a sign INSIDE our boat that said we weren’t allowed to enter the area in a boat -- oops!)
We then anchored our boat and enjoyed the afternoon in the bay across from Zimmari Beach. (Although anchoring was not so easy as we kept drifting... and needed to re-anchor. Clearly, we are not boat people.) There were many boats enjoying the area. It was so peaceful and so beautiful! It was a great way to spend the afternoon.
After our second dinner at Hycesia, we were even happier we had taken the time to get to beautiful Panarea.
Jul 17th, 2013, 12:07 PM
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Bon voyage,
There were MANY shops in the port neighborhood, and I can add that they are beautiful to browse and shop in. Some are very expensive and some are reasonable. There was also a cute market, a pharmacy, an ATM, and lots of bars and restaurants. The paths wind up above the port. Panarea is really a lovely place to stroll, shop, and eat.
Dayle,
We LOVED ortigia!
There were MANY shops in the port neighborhood, and I can add that they are beautiful to browse and shop in. Some are very expensive and some are reasonable. There was also a cute market, a pharmacy, an ATM, and lots of bars and restaurants. The paths wind up above the port. Panarea is really a lovely place to stroll, shop, and eat.
Dayle,
We LOVED ortigia!
Jul 21st, 2013, 02:43 PM
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DAY 5 - 6: COS WINERY
On day 5, we hopped on the morning ferry to Millazo, picked up our car, and headed for COS in southern Sicily. In our quest to enjoy as much Sicilian wine and good food as possible, we planned to stay two nights at the COS.
COS WINERY
We stayed in the charming Azienda Agricola Cos Winery. We were surprisingly the only guests for the weekend, but we enjoyed our stay very much. The grounds are quite nice, and there’s a nice pool. The room was spacious and a great value. Joanna gave us a lovely tour and history of the winery, and we had an incredible dinner with the chef Pino and his wife Karina. As the only guests, the four of us feasted together on Pino’s fabulous cooking. A vast array of vegetables from the garden -- egglant, zucchini, tomatoes, and so much more -- cooked simply but elegantly. Then a pesto pasta topped with ricotta salata, that ranks with the best pasta I have ever tasted.
IL SAKALLEO
My husband read about this restaurant in PALMENTO (a book by Robert Camuto that you should read if you’re interested in Sicilian wines.) It was one of our most memorable dining experiences. The restaurant is an understated, casual place in a fisherman’s village called Scoglitti about 30 minutes from COS. There is no menu, and I don’t think anyone speaks English. (I can communicate well enough in Italian.) The waitress is very spare with her conversation, just asks you if you eat raw fish, then proceeds to bring you probably 12 (maybe more?) dishes of both cooked and raw fish. It is mind-boggling -- the amount, the quantity, the quality. Then when we thought we couldn’t eat another bite, she asked if we wanted pasta. Well, of course, we did. Both pastas were incredible -- one had clams and mussels, the other I can’t remember. At this point, we thought we would explode and weren’t sure how we would make the drive home, so when she asked if we were interested in the main course, we had to say no. Wimps, I know. But we just couldn’t! All this, too, and the most expensive bottle of wine on the menu came to only 90€. Shocking. Do NOT miss this place if you are in the area...
MODICA
We spent a long leisurely morning in Modica. We really enjoyed walking around this beautiful, baroque city. Parking was easy (free right on the main drag), and navigating the town by foot was easy as well. We popped into L’Antica Dolce Bonajuto (beautiful!) and bought some delicious chocolate at Cafe dell’Arte. We also had a really nice lunch at Osteria del Sapori Perdutti. Overall, it was a lovely morning, and I highly recommend a visit to Modica.
(On a side note, we did stop in Ragusa for about an hour. Unfortunately, it was about 4:00 in the afternoon and Ragusa Ilba was literally a ghost town. As a result, we didn’t enjoy walking around since it was kind of depressing -- we literally did not see more than two people for almost 45 minutes. We did have some delicious arincini at a random bar, but we were disappointed with our visit at what I know is supposed to be a wonderful town.)
On day 5, we hopped on the morning ferry to Millazo, picked up our car, and headed for COS in southern Sicily. In our quest to enjoy as much Sicilian wine and good food as possible, we planned to stay two nights at the COS.
COS WINERY
We stayed in the charming Azienda Agricola Cos Winery. We were surprisingly the only guests for the weekend, but we enjoyed our stay very much. The grounds are quite nice, and there’s a nice pool. The room was spacious and a great value. Joanna gave us a lovely tour and history of the winery, and we had an incredible dinner with the chef Pino and his wife Karina. As the only guests, the four of us feasted together on Pino’s fabulous cooking. A vast array of vegetables from the garden -- egglant, zucchini, tomatoes, and so much more -- cooked simply but elegantly. Then a pesto pasta topped with ricotta salata, that ranks with the best pasta I have ever tasted.
IL SAKALLEO
My husband read about this restaurant in PALMENTO (a book by Robert Camuto that you should read if you’re interested in Sicilian wines.) It was one of our most memorable dining experiences. The restaurant is an understated, casual place in a fisherman’s village called Scoglitti about 30 minutes from COS. There is no menu, and I don’t think anyone speaks English. (I can communicate well enough in Italian.) The waitress is very spare with her conversation, just asks you if you eat raw fish, then proceeds to bring you probably 12 (maybe more?) dishes of both cooked and raw fish. It is mind-boggling -- the amount, the quantity, the quality. Then when we thought we couldn’t eat another bite, she asked if we wanted pasta. Well, of course, we did. Both pastas were incredible -- one had clams and mussels, the other I can’t remember. At this point, we thought we would explode and weren’t sure how we would make the drive home, so when she asked if we were interested in the main course, we had to say no. Wimps, I know. But we just couldn’t! All this, too, and the most expensive bottle of wine on the menu came to only 90€. Shocking. Do NOT miss this place if you are in the area...
MODICA
We spent a long leisurely morning in Modica. We really enjoyed walking around this beautiful, baroque city. Parking was easy (free right on the main drag), and navigating the town by foot was easy as well. We popped into L’Antica Dolce Bonajuto (beautiful!) and bought some delicious chocolate at Cafe dell’Arte. We also had a really nice lunch at Osteria del Sapori Perdutti. Overall, it was a lovely morning, and I highly recommend a visit to Modica.
(On a side note, we did stop in Ragusa for about an hour. Unfortunately, it was about 4:00 in the afternoon and Ragusa Ilba was literally a ghost town. As a result, we didn’t enjoy walking around since it was kind of depressing -- we literally did not see more than two people for almost 45 minutes. We did have some delicious arincini at a random bar, but we were disappointed with our visit at what I know is supposed to be a wonderful town.)
Jul 21st, 2013, 06:21 PM
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Loving this TR!
I am curious about Palermo. I am going for 3 nights in Oct.
Did you get there? I'll wait if you did.
Did you eliminate this place?
Should I base somewhere else in Sicily?
Thanks,
Oaktown Traveler
I am curious about Palermo. I am going for 3 nights in Oct.
Did you get there? I'll wait if you did.
Did you eliminate this place?
Should I base somewhere else in Sicily?
Thanks,
Oaktown Traveler
Jul 21st, 2013, 10:00 PM
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We only had a week and so we decided to only focus on eastern Sicily. We do hope to explore western sicily and Palermo in the future. If you search this board, you'll find many people who really enjoyed their stays in Palermo!
Jul 22nd, 2013, 03:02 AM
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Dina you've done it again! Eagerly awaiting next chapter!!
Would you say that late June was an ideal time to travel to the island? What if we decided to skip Panarea or another offshore island...still late June?
Would you say that late June was an ideal time to travel to the island? What if we decided to skip Panarea or another offshore island...still late June?
Jul 22nd, 2013, 06:59 AM
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Hi eks!
Late June was great everywhere! (Even Rome and athens were unusually cool this year.) The weather was so pleasant and the crowds were minimal (or non-existent, as in panerea). We are educators so we always can only travel in the summer, so we usually choose the last two weeks of June.
Thanks,
Dina
Late June was great everywhere! (Even Rome and athens were unusually cool this year.) The weather was so pleasant and the crowds were minimal (or non-existent, as in panerea). We are educators so we always can only travel in the summer, so we usually choose the last two weeks of June.
Thanks,
Dina
