Sicily -- A good choice for March 2009???

My only trip to Sicily was in March, few years ago. For about 2 weeks, bright blue sky everyday, about 15-20C, lovely wild flowers carpeted the countryside, no queue at any historical sites, just nice and peaceful.

You pick up one of the best places for what you enjoy: food, sdramatic scenery, ocean..etc.

My husband and I spent 10 days in Sicily last March. Here's a link to my trip report:

http://www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=34969479

(If that doesn't work, type "aprillilacs" in the Search box and you'll find it -- "Sicily in Spring.")

Loved it! We had a couple days of rain when we first arrived, but the rest of the time was gloriously sunny. We're going back (this time to the Aeolian islands) this May. I think Sicily fits all your interests.

I enjoyed reading Kristina's trip report about Sicily on her website (I was planning a trip there this past fall, but went to Tuscany instead). She traveled in May not March, but I think you will find some useful suggestions.
http://www.wired2theworld.com/sicily2003.html

I originally intended to go to a language school in Cefalu. YOu might find some interesting links on their website.
http://www.solemar-sicilia.it/en/index.php

Not sure about March, but i was there the second half of April this year, and there were certainly tourists around, although it wasn't overrun, and the weather was fine. I highly recommend Ortigia (Siracusa), Erice and Trapani - as well as the obvious like Monreale and the Villa Casale. My TR is here: www.fodors.com/forums/threadselect.jsp?fid=2&tid=35133064

tedgale- if you want some engrossing background to Sicily could I recommend a book called Midnight in Sicily by Peter Robb. Robb went to Palermo in 1995 to cover the trial of a former Prime Minister, Giulio Andreotti for ordering the killing of a journalist, and for Andreotti's association with the Sicilian mafia. Along the way, the book becomes the story of modern Sicily- art, crime, food, politics, music, history & travel. A fascinating narrative about a fascinating part of Italy

This is great information. I will review all the trip reports and links. But please keep the suggestions coming, (esp. about accommodation -- B&Bs, apartments or home rentals for 2 people).

A key consideration is travel between Rome and Sicily. I saw on earlier posts that travel on Air One is convenient. But it appears from their site that at least one of the flights is a 630 am departure -- not a pleasant prospect.

I will check other flight options. But has anyone experience with or an opinion on:
1. train travel from Rome to the south?
2. driving a rental car from Rome to Sicily, rather than renting once we arrive in Sicily?

I was planning the overnight ferry from either Civitavecchia (GNAV) or Naples to Palermo (SNAV to Palermo, Tirrenia to Palermo) Naples to Catania (TTT lines) Salerno to Palermo (Grimaldi). I'm not sure what the March schedules look like, but GNAV's website says daily sailings.
http://www3.gnv.it/en/gnv-sicilia/gnv-gencontent/0/accessser/1/233/24/sicily.html

I took the train from Naples (not Rome) to Siracusa, and it was a very long day. Stopping in Taormina would be better, as it was the three hours from Catania to Siracusa that were really slow! The scenery was initially good on the mainland, but then became rather repetitive, although the island scenery was more dramatic. If you take the train you do get to ride on a train on a ferry, which may be a unique experience these days.

If you take the train, take food and drink - even though this was a long distance train I wasn't impressed with the carriages and didn't see a restaurant car, but that may depend on which train you take. I flew back from Palermo to Naples on Air One and they were fine - and much faster, lol.

Hi there, Tedgale,

We spent 10 days in March in Sicily (just the eastern part) a couple of years ago. The towns were fine, esp. as has been noted the charming Siracusa/Ortigia. The weather was lovely, marvelous for hiking and visiting the (practically deserted) ruins near Noto and Mount Etna. We even spent an enchanted afternoon on a beach, picnicing with only one other family in view...too cold to swim but great for beachcombing.

But therein lies the rub: I picked up on your remark about the 'creepily empty' aspect. And, I cannot lie, the smaller resort towns along the coast that would be brimming over in June are silent and mostly closed. Many of the restaurants that are such a draw in summer are also closed in, again, the small coastal communities. Much of the agritourismo thingy does not start until after Easter.

We, a group of four, absolutely loved having the place to ourselves. But do come prepared for some limited hours of opening for some venues and others to be unavailable.

But go, because it is amazingly beautiful and would make such a fine contrast to Paris. Lucky you!

Tedgale, I assume you have seen my trip report about 2 weeks in May 2005. With only a week I would concentrate on east or west--it will be hard to see all of Sicily in that time. We flew into Catania and back to Rome from Palermo--there are flights at various times during the day.

Bob, I can't find your trip report -- could you give me the link or some key words, to help me search?

I just topped it for you.

tedgale, Sicily is an excellent choice for March. I visited there years back in late February and the weather was great for touring.

Glad to see that bobthenavigator has chimed in. His pics and advice are always on target.

If you like novels, read THE LEOPARD by diLampedusa before going - the quintessential novel of Sicily. It's a magical place - enjoy!

Welcome to the Meditteranean! March generally has great weather.

You can check my web page on our trip to Sicily, which was actually in October.
Sicily is a fascinating place. It has beaches, mountains, volcanoes, lots of very old churches and cathedrals, and history from all the regional empires.

Here's the URL:

http://www.travel.stv77.com/sicily/sicily.htm

Tedgale,
Another pre-trip read for catching the flavour of the region might be the Inspector Montalbano series by Andrea Camilleri. One of the neatest things about these books is the professor's interest in authentic regional cuisine...his detective stops his detecting frequently for a meal and it was on the basis of the food descriptions I read that DH and I were able to find some interesting non-menu-turistico meals when we visited Sicily.

(but how can you manage to tear yourself away from Ottawa this winter? promises to be the most riveting year yet for politcal junkies?)
Lee

bookmarking...thank you!!

Sicily is spectacular - particularly in Spring and Fall. March would be wonderful. March would be perfect in my books. There is so much to do and see - the scenery is lovely and interesting; hilltowns captivating; architecture and ancient sites rival those anywhere on the planet; fascinating markets; fabulous food; and on and on. The history is astounding!

Sicily feels to me more real and nitty gritty (in an excellent way, if you know what I mean) than much of Italy. Extremely enjoyable. You can easily spend two weeks there.

We were in Sicily in September. We really liked the Tripani area. Beautiful rolling hills covered with vinyards. We took a cable car ride to the town of Erice. Cobblestoned narrow streets. Lovely churches and shops. I would look for a small apartment to rent or B & B or small hotel in this town. Awesome. Janet

bookmarking

We have some of the Camilleri books at home -- I should dip into them. Thx for the reminder.

BTW: Now I'm actually kinda vacillating between Sicily and Calabria. Calabria, being less populous, might be less daunting for a first-timer. But maybe I'm just being silly about the infamous driving, the alleged dishonesty of the urban polulation etc. I must say though that between the 2 places, Sicily looks far more expensive.

I DO realize and appreciate that Sicily has more Greek architecture, greater Baroque art and a more glorious cultural history overall.

(Just me being an indecisive Libran again....)

Well, you could avoid the infamous driving by taking public transport - bus or train. And I didn't think Sicily was that expensive, but I stayed in B&Bs, where possible.

Ted, Check out these and then tell me that Sicily is not for you! It is special.
http://www.slowphotos.com/photo/showgallery.php?cat=3828

Those are great photos and you seem to have had ideal conditions too...

I'm actively reflecting....

Has anyone done a one-week rental in Sicily and if so, what base would you choose? I'm aware this might mean we have to limit ourselves to the east half OR the west half of the island.

On a first visit, I don't feel we have to see/"do" everything.

topping

Our trip to Sicily in March was based from a small town just south of Siracusa, in a Parker Company Villa...one which is no longer on their list. It was a charming spot on the sea, though not up to the standards of the Parker we had stayed at in Umbria (we had to bug Parker to bug the owners, who were well off-site, to turn the heat on for the cool evenings and the villa itself was iffy, no tub, no table linens, indequate kitchen ware for real cooking).

But the locale was great, Siracusa/Ortigia are perfect for touring the east coast.

The second week we were in a small town west of Palermo with family and never saw anything but food, wine and babies, so I can't comment on this as a base!

We loved Sicily and will be returning there.