Should We Go to the French Riviera in August?
May 28th, 2017, 10:08 AM
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Should We Go to the French Riviera in August?
Hi! My wife and I are going to France from August 1 - 10th. I'm 62 and this is my first time to France (DW's been there, but very briefly) as well as my very first time in Europe. It's also the first time we'll be away alone for this long in 21 years (our daughters, bless 'em, are 17 and 21), so we are REALLY looking forward to this trip together.
We're going to be heading first to Paris for a few days. But here's the thing -- I've always wanted to see the south of France and the French Riviera, but we HATE crowded beaches. If we want to go to a crowded beach, we live 3.5 hours from Ocean City, Maryland and Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. We just read another forum that the beaches are "freakishly crowded" even in Hyeres and that you won't find a quiet but beautiful beach even if you take a ferry to Porquerolles. We don't need a deserted beach, but we do want to be able to mellow out on our vacation, not be surrounded by crowds (and cigarette smoke).
Is it possible, or should we go somewhere else in France?
We're going to be heading first to Paris for a few days. But here's the thing -- I've always wanted to see the south of France and the French Riviera, but we HATE crowded beaches. If we want to go to a crowded beach, we live 3.5 hours from Ocean City, Maryland and Rehoboth Beach, Delaware. We just read another forum that the beaches are "freakishly crowded" even in Hyeres and that you won't find a quiet but beautiful beach even if you take a ferry to Porquerolles. We don't need a deserted beach, but we do want to be able to mellow out on our vacation, not be surrounded by crowds (and cigarette smoke).
Is it possible, or should we go somewhere else in France?
May 28th, 2017, 10:20 AM
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The Atlantic beaches between Bordeaux and Bayonne are likely to be less crowded. But August is really the height of vacation time in France, particularly the first half. I would plan a trip outside Paris on what you want to see in addition to the time you want to spend on a beach.
May 28th, 2017, 10:40 AM
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Few, if any, of the beaches on the Riviera resemble the beaches at Rehobeth in any way! Most of them are not sand, but large pebbles. In August it is hard to see the pebbles, however, as they are all covered by the French and Germans who take their holiday there during that month. Not a lot of mellow in evidence.
With only ten days in France I would spend most of them in Paris with a day trip or two to see other parts of Northern France. Save the beach time for your next trip.
With only ten days in France I would spend most of them in Paris with a day trip or two to see other parts of Northern France. Save the beach time for your next trip.
May 28th, 2017, 10:49 AM
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I was in Nice a week ago or so, and the beaches were already pretty crowded. I really enjoyed my time in Nice and exploring the nearby towns - it was my first time there - but compared to other places in Europe I've been, I don't think I'd put it in the top ten. I'd rank Normandy and Alsace higher - Normandy especially for the WWII history, but it's also a pretty area. I do like water so that was a big plus for me in visiting Nice, however. The beach scene in August in Normandy may be crowded too.
May 28th, 2017, 11:45 AM
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I have been spending holiday at the Riviera for the last 15 years in august.
The beaches are not crowded. At least when we go. At either 7 am (pretty empty) or after 6 30 pm.
Inbetween we stay at the house.
The beaches are not crowded. At least when we go. At either 7 am (pretty empty) or after 6 30 pm.
Inbetween we stay at the house.
May 28th, 2017, 12:08 PM
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You can go to the south of France without going to the cluttered beaches. Many people consider the back country ("l'arrière pays") to be much more appealing. But no, you will not be alone in any of those places.
Frankly, I consider the Atlantic coast to be much more appealing if you want to see a beach. Hossegor, Capbreton, Mimizan, Arcachon are worth investigating.
My own taste in the summer is for the northern beaches along the English Channel, but I feel that I will not convince you.
Frankly, I consider the Atlantic coast to be much more appealing if you want to see a beach. Hossegor, Capbreton, Mimizan, Arcachon are worth investigating.
My own taste in the summer is for the northern beaches along the English Channel, but I feel that I will not convince you.
May 28th, 2017, 12:17 PM
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Kerouac is right, the Atlantic beaches are sandier and less crowded, but they do have a different character than those in the south of France. Also, the water temperature may give you a shock. I got the following from Google:
"In the English Channel the water temperature can vary from 59°F (15°C) at the end of June, increasing to 64/65°F (18°C) by the beginning of September. It is extremely important that you are accustomed to swimming in temperatures of 59°F and below comfortably before contemplating a channel swim."
"In the English Channel the water temperature can vary from 59°F (15°C) at the end of June, increasing to 64/65°F (18°C) by the beginning of September. It is extremely important that you are accustomed to swimming in temperatures of 59°F and below comfortably before contemplating a channel swim."
May 28th, 2017, 12:22 PM
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Terrible idea by what you want if you dislike crowds.
I don't understand at all why you need to go to the beach on your first and only vacation to France. You can still see plenty of southern France as you want without hanging out on beaches, which you yourself say you can easily do at home.
So would you tell some French person to go to the beach at Ocean City on their first vacation to the US during the peak season?
I don't understand at all why you need to go to the beach on your first and only vacation to France. You can still see plenty of southern France as you want without hanging out on beaches, which you yourself say you can easily do at home.
So would you tell some French person to go to the beach at Ocean City on their first vacation to the US during the peak season?
May 28th, 2017, 12:29 PM
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May 28th, 2017, 12:37 PM
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I would never head to the Riviera in August, especially if you HATE, as you say, crowded beaches. I live in the SW of France and would never consider going to the Riviera in August. I WILL, however, go to the beach on the Atlantic coast around the Bassin d'Arcachon, maybe Mimizan (though that gets a bit Atlantic City-ish in summer), or La Rochelle and the Ile de Ré and Ile d'Oléron.
As Wo says, early morning and early evening may be palatable on the Riviera, but if you're really looking for a great beach vacation in August in France, the Riviera is NOT going to be what you want it to be.
As Wo says, early morning and early evening may be palatable on the Riviera, but if you're really looking for a great beach vacation in August in France, the Riviera is NOT going to be what you want it to be.
May 28th, 2017, 12:40 PM
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Trust me those Belgian beaches can be packed too if there is decent weather.
We were in Brittany last August and found plenty of beautiful deserted beaches.
Alsace, Normandy, the Loire valley, or maybe the Cantal, would be lovely places to visit for a few days away from Paris.
But if you want to go to the south of France go! Accept the crowds, see the beach then head inland maybe.
We were in Brittany last August and found plenty of beautiful deserted beaches.
Alsace, Normandy, the Loire valley, or maybe the Cantal, would be lovely places to visit for a few days away from Paris.
But if you want to go to the south of France go! Accept the crowds, see the beach then head inland maybe.
May 28th, 2017, 01:09 PM
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DH (rip) and I have made Nice and Menton as bases on separate trips. When we stayed in Nice (in March), we took a van tour that tooks us to many of the local places of interest in a day. We used the train to return to Monaco and it was easy.
In Menton (again in March), we took a bus to Nice and said many times, "This must be a zoo in the summer."
If our bus trip was typical, be forewarned that Nice will be busy. Paris less so because tout le monde are in Nice? Do other Fodorites agree?
BTW, can you arrange to fly into Paris and out of Nice? Would save time.
Please report back about your trip!
In Menton (again in March), we took a bus to Nice and said many times, "This must be a zoo in the summer."
If our bus trip was typical, be forewarned that Nice will be busy. Paris less so because tout le monde are in Nice? Do other Fodorites agree?
BTW, can you arrange to fly into Paris and out of Nice? Would save time.
Please report back about your trip!
May 28th, 2017, 02:02 PM
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<i> Paris less so because tout le monde are in Nice? Do other Fodorites agree?</i>
Not when it comes to the major tourist areas.
As for no one being in Paris in August: years ago an American friend was in Paris for an extended time (6 weeks) staying in an apartment with her two or three year old. The friend was there for work purposes and needed a baby sitter for her child. This was in late July or early August. She placed an ad in Le Figaro; her French friends said that she would never find anyone as there is no one left in Paris in August. The phone started ringing at 6 a.m. and did not stop the entire day. As soon as the phone was put down, it would ring again. She eventually chose a German university student because she spoke English and figured that it would be easier for the child.
Not when it comes to the major tourist areas.
As for no one being in Paris in August: years ago an American friend was in Paris for an extended time (6 weeks) staying in an apartment with her two or three year old. The friend was there for work purposes and needed a baby sitter for her child. This was in late July or early August. She placed an ad in Le Figaro; her French friends said that she would never find anyone as there is no one left in Paris in August. The phone started ringing at 6 a.m. and did not stop the entire day. As soon as the phone was put down, it would ring again. She eventually chose a German university student because she spoke English and figured that it would be easier for the child.
May 28th, 2017, 02:08 PM
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Thank you, everyone. I don't exactly know yet what we should do -- it definitely sounds like we should de-emphasize the time spent on any beaches, and let that be something we'd do on a future trip in May or June or September.
I still am attracted to the idea of going south, though, to Provence, wine country, etc., and to try to go to places that are a little less crowded and hectic, though they still may be busy.
Any strong, must-see suggestions for a couple going to France in August, who are finally away together by themselves for the first time in 21 years?
I still am attracted to the idea of going south, though, to Provence, wine country, etc., and to try to go to places that are a little less crowded and hectic, though they still may be busy.
Any strong, must-see suggestions for a couple going to France in August, who are finally away together by themselves for the first time in 21 years?
May 28th, 2017, 02:43 PM
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>>Any strong, must-see suggestions for a couple going to France in August, who are finally away together by themselves for the first time in 21 years?<
I am sure it can happen anywhere, but it has nonetheless been a noteworthy experience for me that in Paris, I have seen more tourist couples arguing angrily with each other in public places than I have seen in any other destination I have been. (Nearest second was the Amalfi coast.) I ended up forming a theory that (a) couple's expectations of romantic bliss are so high in Paris (and hearts soar so instantaneously at first sight of the lovely city) that it really really is worthwhile to figure out well before arrival what BOTH of you really really want to experience and see together and THEN -- this is really important -- set a very reasonable pace for doing it.
I would say that in my lifetime I have spent something close to 200 days in Paris. There are still many sights I was told by guidebooks and others are MUST-SEES MUST-DOs that I haven't seen or done (and probably never will.) But the odd hour I spent lingering over something I had never seen before and could only see in Paris, including this or that shop or trying to read a French newspaper over a cup of strong coffee, are what stands out over those 200 days.
One time I went to Paris with my partner and became more than a bit frustrated that lingering over breakfast was taking too much time away from the museum-hopping I love -- I wanted an earlier start. But the cafe owner began to take a shine to my partner, with us showing up every day, and it turned into a human contact that went beyond the tourist experience (in a very touristy corner of Paris no less).
Hope you get my drift....
I am sure it can happen anywhere, but it has nonetheless been a noteworthy experience for me that in Paris, I have seen more tourist couples arguing angrily with each other in public places than I have seen in any other destination I have been. (Nearest second was the Amalfi coast.) I ended up forming a theory that (a) couple's expectations of romantic bliss are so high in Paris (and hearts soar so instantaneously at first sight of the lovely city) that it really really is worthwhile to figure out well before arrival what BOTH of you really really want to experience and see together and THEN -- this is really important -- set a very reasonable pace for doing it.
I would say that in my lifetime I have spent something close to 200 days in Paris. There are still many sights I was told by guidebooks and others are MUST-SEES MUST-DOs that I haven't seen or done (and probably never will.) But the odd hour I spent lingering over something I had never seen before and could only see in Paris, including this or that shop or trying to read a French newspaper over a cup of strong coffee, are what stands out over those 200 days.
One time I went to Paris with my partner and became more than a bit frustrated that lingering over breakfast was taking too much time away from the museum-hopping I love -- I wanted an earlier start. But the cafe owner began to take a shine to my partner, with us showing up every day, and it turned into a human contact that went beyond the tourist experience (in a very touristy corner of Paris no less).
Hope you get my drift....
May 28th, 2017, 02:44 PM
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Why not go to the Basque country in SW France and travel back and forth over the Pyrenees doing lots of little villages? The much quieter Atlantic coast, Biarritz, Saint-Jean-de-Luz and its beautiful beach. San Sebastian in Spain. There will be lots of people but not at all like the Riviera
May 28th, 2017, 04:01 PM
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Yes it will be mobbed but still go for it if the French Riviera is where you want to go - there is a lot more than beaches there -old hill towns like At-Paul-du-Vence, Vence and larger but more old looking Antibes.
I camped at Biot-sur-Mer once and the beaches there were yes crowded but not packed and they are sandy beaches vs mainly rocky ones in Nice area.
Driving was a real.... gridlock everywhere it seemed but trains and buses go everywhere - especially the rail line along the coast to the Italian border at Ventimiglia (easy day trip to Italy and Italian culture easily done).
You may not want to stay right in Nice if beaches are a draw - the Antibes area is a bit quieter (but nothing is quiet near the coast at this time of year) but consider Antibes or Villefranche/s/Mer areas as less hectic - a bit -places to stay. Or the Juan-les-Pins area especially. The Biot area beach I know was not really mobbed (several years ago however) - a short walk even from Antibes -again IMO a great place to stay and base.
the crowds are huge but add a certain whatever to it all - most are Europeans flocking south on vacations- streets have an Italian like festive atmosphere in evenings with lots of folks about.
Anyway make a base near a train station and take trains to places like Cannes (gotta see it and the fancy yachts) and go to beaches there - miles of sandy beaches - and Grasse for Perfume factory tours and a neat old regional town - even bop over to Monaco on the train - many poohpooh it but I enjoyed seeing it and what it was all about and the grand old casino is a sight to behold in its opulent glory.
Nice itself is an amazing city - at least have a meal at the restaurant ghetto in the old town near the beach- for snack try the famous Pain Baignat! Kind of a Latin Quarter in Nice. And Cimiez perched above Nice has Roman ruins and an acclaimed art museum and fab views over the coast.
But what Nice excels in is a lively atmosphere day and night on its famous seafront esplanade and pedestrian streets.
You can take the tiny Train des Pignes (sp?) from Nice into the hinterlands of Provence with relatively few tourists - get off at one station and hike to another - a sleepty town like Annot will be the exact opposite of the glitzy coast.
So with a base and taking trains you escape the gridlock scene on just about every main road (IME) and take scenic trains up and down the coast -or just stay put and spend the day on a beach. For more on trains here and where they go check www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.seat61.com. these are commuter trains so just buy tickets from machines at stations or ticket windows. There could be some kind of day pass for trains too - not sure.
Any good beach area in France will be mobbed in August but few offer the variety of things to do on non-beach days as does the Nice-Cannes area.
Go for it -the pluses outweigh the negatives IMO.
Cheers!
I camped at Biot-sur-Mer once and the beaches there were yes crowded but not packed and they are sandy beaches vs mainly rocky ones in Nice area.
Driving was a real.... gridlock everywhere it seemed but trains and buses go everywhere - especially the rail line along the coast to the Italian border at Ventimiglia (easy day trip to Italy and Italian culture easily done).
You may not want to stay right in Nice if beaches are a draw - the Antibes area is a bit quieter (but nothing is quiet near the coast at this time of year) but consider Antibes or Villefranche/s/Mer areas as less hectic - a bit -places to stay. Or the Juan-les-Pins area especially. The Biot area beach I know was not really mobbed (several years ago however) - a short walk even from Antibes -again IMO a great place to stay and base.
the crowds are huge but add a certain whatever to it all - most are Europeans flocking south on vacations- streets have an Italian like festive atmosphere in evenings with lots of folks about.
Anyway make a base near a train station and take trains to places like Cannes (gotta see it and the fancy yachts) and go to beaches there - miles of sandy beaches - and Grasse for Perfume factory tours and a neat old regional town - even bop over to Monaco on the train - many poohpooh it but I enjoyed seeing it and what it was all about and the grand old casino is a sight to behold in its opulent glory.
Nice itself is an amazing city - at least have a meal at the restaurant ghetto in the old town near the beach- for snack try the famous Pain Baignat! Kind of a Latin Quarter in Nice. And Cimiez perched above Nice has Roman ruins and an acclaimed art museum and fab views over the coast.
But what Nice excels in is a lively atmosphere day and night on its famous seafront esplanade and pedestrian streets.
You can take the tiny Train des Pignes (sp?) from Nice into the hinterlands of Provence with relatively few tourists - get off at one station and hike to another - a sleepty town like Annot will be the exact opposite of the glitzy coast.
So with a base and taking trains you escape the gridlock scene on just about every main road (IME) and take scenic trains up and down the coast -or just stay put and spend the day on a beach. For more on trains here and where they go check www.ricksteves.com and www.budgeteuropetravel.com and www.seat61.com. these are commuter trains so just buy tickets from machines at stations or ticket windows. There could be some kind of day pass for trains too - not sure.
Any good beach area in France will be mobbed in August but few offer the variety of things to do on non-beach days as does the Nice-Cannes area.
Go for it -the pluses outweigh the negatives IMO.
Cheers!
May 28th, 2017, 05:16 PM
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Paris in august is pretty deserted. Hotels are at their lowest season simply because there is no one white collar working.
But the city goes on for sure.
My must be alone without the kids would be brittany. But that is me. Small villages. Cool weather. Menhirs dolmens seaside crêpes cidre.
Tomorrow it may be Alsace. Or La Rochelle. Or ?
But the city goes on for sure.
My must be alone without the kids would be brittany. But that is me. Small villages. Cool weather. Menhirs dolmens seaside crêpes cidre.
Tomorrow it may be Alsace. Or La Rochelle. Or ?
