Short trip: Cartmel near South Lakes
Mar 5th, 2015, 11:51 PM
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Short trip: Cartmel near South Lakes
Cartmel is a small village near the South Lakes just north of Lancaster. It is easily reached by the M6. It has the benefits of having very good pubs and restaurants all within a short walking distance. It is near to Morecambe Bay with its small villages like Flookburgh (the town of flounders – small flat fish like plaice).It is well served by hotels.
The Restaurant L’Enclume is considered as being one of the finest in the UK and was the subject of an episode of “The Trip” a series in which Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon travelled the North of England in search of good “grub”.
We chose a wintry weekend when ‘gobfulls’ of snowflakes floated down and covered the village and surrounding hills. It was a very pretty sight. It felt almost like Christmas especially with the bright lights from craft shops many specialising in toys and provided a contrast to the more austere buildings in the square. The village has a small stream running through it complete with ducks.
Cartmel Priory is an imposing sight. Its insides are spacious and haunting. Gravestones there provide short narratives of the risks associated with the area. Stories of Mothers who have drowned in the very same spot as their sons. You are left ruminating their fate – did they drown in the treacherous sands of Morecambe Bay whilst catching flounders, or cockles, or Morecambe Bay shrimp? Morecambe Bay has a tragic history of drownings and the only real safe way of crossing the Bay is to go on the guided walks which are led between Morecambe and Flookburgh.
In contrast to the Priory, there are gaily decorated and blindingly lit tea shops , they almost seem out of place set against the sombre stones, especially in winter.
In addition to L’Enclume there are four excellent pubs serving Gastro-meals; the Red Lion, the Royal Oak, the Pig and Whistle and the one where we stayed: the Cavendish Arms.
The Cavendish Arms is an extremely friendly place with fantastic food and the breakfast, in particular, was very nice. It is a very old pub dripping with atmosphere. We did not have the best room as we booked it as a deal, many of the other rooms are more spacious and better furnished. They have a food Blackboard featuring specials but the routine menu is very good and includes the famous Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding. What flabbergasted me was that when I ordered brandy and hot chocolate we were told they had neither – come on!
Getting to Cartmel can be a delight. You can take the A6 and pass some attractive villages such as Garstang, an historic market town. Barton Grange Garden Centre is passed en route and a great place to pick up gifts, they also have a very good restaurant. There are many good walks on this route especially if you like walking on the flat along the canal.
The most attractive journey is through the Trough of Bowland and this route brings you up close to some lovely pubs such as the Inn at Whitewell (also featured in “the Trip”). Hope you find this of interest, makes a change from the usual places reported upon.
The Restaurant L’Enclume is considered as being one of the finest in the UK and was the subject of an episode of “The Trip” a series in which Steve Coogan and Rob Brydon travelled the North of England in search of good “grub”.
We chose a wintry weekend when ‘gobfulls’ of snowflakes floated down and covered the village and surrounding hills. It was a very pretty sight. It felt almost like Christmas especially with the bright lights from craft shops many specialising in toys and provided a contrast to the more austere buildings in the square. The village has a small stream running through it complete with ducks.
Cartmel Priory is an imposing sight. Its insides are spacious and haunting. Gravestones there provide short narratives of the risks associated with the area. Stories of Mothers who have drowned in the very same spot as their sons. You are left ruminating their fate – did they drown in the treacherous sands of Morecambe Bay whilst catching flounders, or cockles, or Morecambe Bay shrimp? Morecambe Bay has a tragic history of drownings and the only real safe way of crossing the Bay is to go on the guided walks which are led between Morecambe and Flookburgh.
In contrast to the Priory, there are gaily decorated and blindingly lit tea shops , they almost seem out of place set against the sombre stones, especially in winter.
In addition to L’Enclume there are four excellent pubs serving Gastro-meals; the Red Lion, the Royal Oak, the Pig and Whistle and the one where we stayed: the Cavendish Arms.
The Cavendish Arms is an extremely friendly place with fantastic food and the breakfast, in particular, was very nice. It is a very old pub dripping with atmosphere. We did not have the best room as we booked it as a deal, many of the other rooms are more spacious and better furnished. They have a food Blackboard featuring specials but the routine menu is very good and includes the famous Cartmel Sticky Toffee Pudding. What flabbergasted me was that when I ordered brandy and hot chocolate we were told they had neither – come on!
Getting to Cartmel can be a delight. You can take the A6 and pass some attractive villages such as Garstang, an historic market town. Barton Grange Garden Centre is passed en route and a great place to pick up gifts, they also have a very good restaurant. There are many good walks on this route especially if you like walking on the flat along the canal.
The most attractive journey is through the Trough of Bowland and this route brings you up close to some lovely pubs such as the Inn at Whitewell (also featured in “the Trip”). Hope you find this of interest, makes a change from the usual places reported upon.
Mar 6th, 2015, 02:08 AM
#2
thank you stevelyon for the trip report. The sticky toffee pudding sounds heavenly and if I make it up to the lakes area I will give the Cavendish Arms a try. Right now they are booked for the time we will be in the UK.
Mar 6th, 2015, 02:29 AM
#3
We love Cartmel Steve, but haven't been up there for some years. A great friend of ours used to have the Kings Arms in the Square and it was very good then. Not sure what it's like now?
We live near the Clitheroe end of the Trough and frequently visit the restaurants, pubs and villages at that end. Never been that impressed with the Inn at Whitewell though.
We live near the Clitheroe end of the Trough and frequently visit the restaurants, pubs and villages at that end. Never been that impressed with the Inn at Whitewell though.
Mar 6th, 2015, 03:18 AM
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Thanks both.
The Kings Arms is lovely, first time there, food looked good, everyone seemed to be ordering fish butties!
I have nether stayed or eaten at the Inn at Whitewell, and just going by reputation. Rubicund, The Three Fishes near you has a good reputation, but again I have not yet got round to eating there.
I love Clitheroe (but not as much as Waddington), I would be envious of your access to the sausage shop there, had I not got the market here in Bury.
Thanks again.
The Kings Arms is lovely, first time there, food looked good, everyone seemed to be ordering fish butties!
I have nether stayed or eaten at the Inn at Whitewell, and just going by reputation. Rubicund, The Three Fishes near you has a good reputation, but again I have not yet got round to eating there.
I love Clitheroe (but not as much as Waddington), I would be envious of your access to the sausage shop there, had I not got the market here in Bury.
Thanks again.
Mar 6th, 2015, 03:29 AM
#5
We visit Bury market regularly, love the cheese and bacon! We've been to the Inn at Whitewell several times, but although it seems to be well thought of, maybe we've been unlucky? The Three Fishes is one of those "gastropubs" that thinks it's better than it is.
We tend to go into Manchester though when we're eating out.
We tend to go into Manchester though when we're eating out.
Mar 6th, 2015, 03:29 AM
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My mother in law's family came from Cartmel Fell. Her parents left for Liverpool in the early 1900s, then emigrated to Canada, bringing her and her siblings, in 1914. I wish she were still with us to read this. She and my FiL did visit there and met her cousins.
Mar 6th, 2015, 03:41 AM
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It's not just L'Enclume (and the local claim that sticky toffee pudding was actually invented in the village) making Cartmel something that would be called a foodies' paradise if it were in the ungritty South.
Simon Rogan, the near-genius behind L'Enclume ,is also responsible for Cartmel's Rogan & Co, where we had an extraordinary £25 lunch a few months ago. He also runs and directs the Pig & Whistle - and insisted, when he was doing a guest class as a sideline from running a banquet at our street festival last year, that it both serves real food and makes a decent living. I actually caught him wielding a skillet at his Fera at Claridge's in Mayfair last month. How he manages it all I can't begin to think.
On top of which, its (?weekly) market has terrific, locally caught, reared, grown or manufactured, fish, meat, fruit & veg and messed about stuff - including some tweaks on sticky toffee pudding that make the muck almost edible. And there's a racetrack. With bookies and all the rest for a day or two every year.
Simon Rogan, the near-genius behind L'Enclume ,is also responsible for Cartmel's Rogan & Co, where we had an extraordinary £25 lunch a few months ago. He also runs and directs the Pig & Whistle - and insisted, when he was doing a guest class as a sideline from running a banquet at our street festival last year, that it both serves real food and makes a decent living. I actually caught him wielding a skillet at his Fera at Claridge's in Mayfair last month. How he manages it all I can't begin to think.
On top of which, its (?weekly) market has terrific, locally caught, reared, grown or manufactured, fish, meat, fruit & veg and messed about stuff - including some tweaks on sticky toffee pudding that make the muck almost edible. And there's a racetrack. With bookies and all the rest for a day or two every year.
Mar 6th, 2015, 09:56 PM
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Nice thread.
Have you been in the gents toilets at Barton Grange?...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRVsF-y9D9Y
...even the ladies like a peek in!
Used to regularly do the cross-bay walk from Hest Bank to Grange-over-Sands. Random video here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKv6Lqv3138
Beautiful part of the world.
Have you been in the gents toilets at Barton Grange?...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pRVsF-y9D9Y
...even the ladies like a peek in!
Used to regularly do the cross-bay walk from Hest Bank to Grange-over-Sands. Random video here...
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RKv6Lqv3138
Beautiful part of the world.
Mar 7th, 2015, 07:41 AM
#11
Sounds like a great winter break. I've only been in Cartmel once years and years ago when my ex and I took a detour on a trip up to the west coast of Scotland - it was just an overnight and I'd pretty much forgotten about it. Didn't really explore much. May have to put it on my 'catching up' list of places I'm trying to return to.
Mar 7th, 2015, 07:53 AM
#12
Thanks Steve - what a revelation!
When we used to go to the lakes [BK or before kids] we used to head for the far end, and by passed Cartmel - we were obviously making a big mistake. i think that we'd want to fly, but it's certainly an idea for a short break.
When we used to go to the lakes [BK or before kids] we used to head for the far end, and by passed Cartmel - we were obviously making a big mistake. i think that we'd want to fly, but it's certainly an idea for a short break.
Mar 11th, 2015, 03:39 AM
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Cartmel Races are v.popular. Here's the 2015 programme...
http://cartmel-racecourse.co.uk/raci...ixtures-diary/
And some reviews on Trip Advisor...
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUse...a_England.html
http://cartmel-racecourse.co.uk/raci...ixtures-diary/
And some reviews on Trip Advisor...
http://www.tripadvisor.co.uk/ShowUse...a_England.html
