nellyb

I’ve been thinking about taking an extended trip/vacation in Spain for some time now and would greatly appreciate some thoughts on my thoughts. Initially, I was focused on Barcelona and Madrid, since, well, Barcelona/Madrid are the most well known cities. As I got to thinking, however, I realized these cities might not be conducive to what it is that I’m trying to achieve. So what am I trying to achieve?

-I’d like to rent out an apartment for a month to two months in a neighborhood in a Spanish city that isn’t totally overrun with tourists. Also, I do enjoy artsy/bohemian neighborhoods.

-Ideally, I’ll be doing some traveling to other cities, but for the most part, I’d like to really dig into the place where I’ll be renting. This isn’t an expedition in which I need to take in the sights at as many places as possible. I want to relax and get some painting done—I’m a painter—so the idea of Barcelona/Madrid, which seemed appealing at first, has lost some of its luster. I might be too distracted in those cities, trying to see and do everything. So this brought me to Seville, which then brought me to Granada—two smaller cities with enough to do and with proximity to other places that I could visit when I do decide to venture out some. Am I right to assume that the quality of life/pace will be better in Seville/Granada than in Madrid/Barcelona?

-Short term rent is always pricey, but it is infinitely more expensive in Madrid and Barcelona.

So should I stay in Seville? Granada? Or should I be looking into other affordable/smaller cities along the coast, etc? Keep in mind, I’m an American male in my late 20s who speaks Spanish.

BigRuss

Cordoba. Small city, pretty artsy.

Salamanca would work too.

Maybe Bilbao or San Sebastien - haven't been, but others would know.

Seville has plenty of tourists and so does Granada. What "overrun" means is anyone's guess - the fact is that if you live in a residential neighborhood that is not thisclose to the tourist centers (Placa Catalunya, Plaza Mayor/Gran Via, etc.) you won't be swarmed by those impertinent "tourists" that people complain about.

danon

Valencia ( or nearby ) is a great city..not overrun by tourists big enough not to get bored at night,, great beeches.
Tarragona ...small, pretty, an hour to Barcelona.

BigRuss

In addition to trees, Valencia has beaches. And it has > 1,000,000 residents so it counts as a sizable city.

annhig

yep, Valencia gets my vote. Lots of places to go on day trips or slightly longer - it connects very well by train with Madrid and Barcelona if you want a change as well as lots of smaller places.

danon

beaches..not beeches..

kimhe

Sevilla is a great idea. You should have a look at the Alameda/Macarena district in Sevilla, the undisputable queen of the cities in Andalucia. I think it'll be quite close to what you want: http://www.theguardian.com/travel/20...macarena-spain

kimhe

And Antequera (pop 40 000) should be considered. A beautiful and city with beautiful surroundings. As Andalucia as it gets and a 50 mins bus ride to the Med coast and excellent big city Malaga.
http://www.andaluciacoastandcountry....era-spain.html
http://turismo.antequera.es/en/

The spectacular Torcal nature reserve is just outside Antequera: http://www.andalucia.com/antequera/torcal/home.htm

progol

kimhe, you're killing me! So many wonderful things to do! I can't wait till we go to Spain (only 2 1/2 months now!).

I'm loving the article on Sevilla. Wonderful suggestions there.

Ozarksbill

If you get kimhe going, especially about flamenco, it will never end. Yes, Sevilla would be a nice place to spend time. Yes, Cordoba good, haven't been to Valencia, have stayed a spell years ago in Salamanca which would also provide a nice authentic Spanish locale.

We were in Spain/Portugal last October. You can find lots of travel reports that are helpful. Madrid of course is a big busy city but we loved the Prado and other sights. Speaking Spanish should be a real plus and good luck on painting. What time of year? Summer can be too hot and natives often live in upper rooms with cities having narrow streets.

Christina

I seem to recall this very same post some while ago, I remember it was unusual in talking about wanting to rent a place for a while and paint. I guess it was you, here it is http://www.fodors.com/community/europe/4-6-weeks.cfm

YOu got a lot of comments on that one. I guess mine haven't changed, I think Seville has tons of tourists, just as many (or more per area) than Madrid or Barcelona.

But you can stay in neighborhoods in any city where there aren't that many tourists, sure, just get away from the dead center, usually. YOu could do that in Barcelona and Madrid, also. But Seville is smaller, so it's an idea. Personally, I like having the option of a better public transportation system than Seville has, but that goes with being smaller. I like cities with metros myself, much easier to get around. The one in seville doesn't amount to much, mainly for commuters who live outside the city center, not for getting around the city.

I think quality of life is what you make it, so don't know why it would be better in Seville than Barcelona. Pace probably is slower just because it's not as major a business city as the other two, though. I'm sure there are other places that would be less expensive than Seville, but if it suits you moneywise, seems like an okay idea.



But of course, your rental options will be greater in a bigger city, also.

Sassafrass

I love the mountains and landscape around Granada, really beautiful. If that has appeal, the city is also very interesting. Can't say why, but I enjoyed it more than either Seville or Cordoba.

Robert2533

As an artist, you'll want to be somewhere that might inspire you. The great Basque post-Impressionist Ignacio Zuloaga spent many years in Pedraza de la Serra, Segovia, Madrid and Zumaia (on the Basque coast).

http://museoignaciozuloaga.com/en/

In 1917 Ignacio Zuloaga told his uncle Daniel Zuloaga: "I have been traveling to Segovia for eighteen years now; it is there that I have painted all my major works, and it is my wish to continue painting there for as long as I am able, as it is a region that has won a place in my affections…”

And in 1945, just a few months prior to his untimely death, he confessed to the Bilbao journalist Esteban Calle Iturrino, “That is the reason why I love Castile so deeply; that is the reason Castile has shown me the totality of its light and shadows, its bold contrasts of blues, reds and yellows, and the incomparable shades of grey of its distant hazes; the cornerstones of those defining settings and the only integral landscapes that have formed a constant presence on my palette”.

nellyb

That article on the Guardian really sold me on Seville. Does anyone have any experience in staying in the Alameda/Macarena district?

kimhe

I now use to stay just off Alameda de Hercules when in Sevilla. The Alameda itself is all kinds of people, fun and hectic, plenty of excellent tapas bars and restaurants and some of the best nightlife in Sevilla. Two minutes walking from Alameda you'll enter a quite diffenrent world in and around Calle Feria, as local feel as it gets. Great food market and lots of small shops and bars and people out and about doing their daily routine. Also a weekly flea market every Thursday. This gives you an idea:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=-aTOgDRTO4Q
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eGEkQ9KXxZM

Ozarksbill

Like Sassafrass says, I also was impressed by the mountains and landscape approaching Granada and also olive trees on the green hillsides throughout Andalucia. This besides the usual historic Granada, Cordoba, etc. sights.

annhig

we took the normal "head north from Malaga and then turn right" route TO Granada, but on the way back we drove south from Granada through the mountains and then right along the coast - magic.

anyone contemplating driving in the area should consult the Cadogan guide for Andalusia - there are some very good routes and tips.

jeterray

As most of the posters on here know, I am currently in Malaga. Will stay here for a month. I returned to Malaga because of it's historic district and it's location. I won't waste time talking about the historic sites here. In addition, Seville , Granada, Cordoba and Ronda are an easy day trip by bus and/or train. Although Malaga is a big city with a nice airport, we have seen very few tourists, at least English speaking. I think a lot of tourists, particularly American, move on after flying into this airport. Saw a guy today at a sidewalk café painting. Check Bookings.com or Livin4malaga.com for some apartment prices. I found prices to be very reasonable.

annhig

jeterray - there is a long-time fodorite living in Malaga who is an artist; he has an exhibition coming up soon, perhaps when you are still there:

http://www.jgonzalezbueno.com/web2/pe.html

Bedar

Ah, Annhig. Is that Josele ? Have really missed him here. Perhaps he was preparing for this exhibition and didn't have the time to do Fodors. It was very frustrating to repeat info ad nauseum when the Search feature was out. Glad to have his real-life name. Thanks.