Seville + ???? during the Semana Santa
Jul 18th, 2010, 05:47 AM
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Seville + ???? during the Semana Santa
This year friends offered their apt. in Seville to us for the part of Semana Santa , but we could not travel in March. They were kind enough to extend the invitation to April 15-20 of 2011.
My question is : where should we go from Seville for the rest of the Easter week ?Would the coast be a good option ? Malaga? Or should we just head to Barcelona ( we'll eventually leave from there) ?
BTW, another time we could use their place is at the end of April- early May during FERIA. Should we go to Seville during FERIA instead of the SS?
We have to give them our response in several days.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I visited Seville and Cordoba for a couple of days many years ago - don't remember much. We have been to Granada. ( also Madrid and Barcelona).
My question is : where should we go from Seville for the rest of the Easter week ?Would the coast be a good option ? Malaga? Or should we just head to Barcelona ( we'll eventually leave from there) ?
BTW, another time we could use their place is at the end of April- early May during FERIA. Should we go to Seville during FERIA instead of the SS?
We have to give them our response in several days.
Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I visited Seville and Cordoba for a couple of days many years ago - don't remember much. We have been to Granada. ( also Madrid and Barcelona).
Jul 18th, 2010, 11:12 AM
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Sorry I can't give advice but wanted to say that we were in Jerez over Santa Semana and LOVED IT! It was so NOT touristy. Just the locals and their visiting families. If you travel there I can recommend a wonderful pension. We experienced the Santa Semana in Granada too. I loved the whole experience in both places. I have not been in Spain during the Feria. Would you pay extra to experience the Flamenco events or does everything happen on the street like a Santa Semana event? If you do stay for Feria you mustsee a dancer whose name is Rocio something....hmmm, can't remember the last bit but she is very famous in Spain. She was young and fabulous! The flamenco really stirs something in the soul. Boy, now you have me interested.......
Jul 18th, 2010, 11:56 AM
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I'd give my right arm--well, maybe not the whole arm, but at least a few fingers--to visit Seville in either Santa Semana or Feria.
We liked Ronda, and though I haven't seen Carmona, it sounds like a great place to see.
We liked Ronda, and though I haven't seen Carmona, it sounds like a great place to see.
Jul 18th, 2010, 02:20 PM
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You are so blessed to have such wonderful friends to offer this invitation.
I've visited Sevilla every year for Semana Santa since 2003, with the exception of last year when I visited for Feria. They are so very different and I enjoyed them both but my personal preference is Semana Santa. Maybe your friends wille extend another invite in 2012 and you can do both
Semana Santa is definately a more solomn time but it is still fun. Obviously there is a very strong religious tone. Everything is centered in the city and it is VERY crowded and full of life. Tapas bars are usually packed and if a processional is passing through the neighborhood you may even be unable to more, blocked by crowds of people. In fact, I can generally only take about 1/2 of Semana Santa in Sevilla as I like to go somewhere else that is is not so crowded. That said, you really feel like you're in the middle of the entire celebration.
Feria is located outside of the city. As an outsider, you are not allowed into the private casetas. There are a couple of public casatas at the fairground you can enter. I've never seen such beautiful people in my life. The women wore elaborate dresses with their hair and makeup perfectly done. Men were in their best suits looking amazing! It was quite the place to see and be seen. Many people arrived during the day on horse and carriage which paraded through the feria announcing their arrival. I think the most shocking thing to me was the people really let loose and there was quite a bit of drinking. Usually in Spain there is drinking but not to this extent - so it was just surprising to me! In Sevilla itself it was not at all crowded. You saw people dressed up or on horseback heading to the fairgrounds but it was very quiet in town (very much a contrast to Semana Santa). I really enjoyed Feria but very much felt like an outsider. If I had been with someone from Sevilla it would have been different.
As far as where to go for the other part of Semana Santa here's some ideas:
Jerez or Corodoba: both are supposed to have beautiful processions and a more intimate feel (less crowded) than Sevilla
Malaga: I've always wanted to visit Malaga for Semana Santa as it is the big rival of Sevilla. The paseos are so large they cannot carry them from underneath (as in Sevilla).
Sanlucar or El Puerto de Santa Maria: both much smaller towns that are supposed to have nice processions and not alot of crowds
Ecija, Carmona, Osuna, Antequera: smaller, like Sanlucar and el Puerto but a different feel as they are inland
Cadiz: my 2nd Semana Santa home. What can I say? It's my favorite city in Spain so I have a strong personal bias. I love the processions here - it can get very crowded but nothing like Sevilla.
Arcos: for a really different Easter Sunday experience there is a bull run in Arocs at noon and 3pm!
Note: many cities do not have processionals on Saturday and very few on Friday (the big night is Thursday night). I know Cadiz, Arcos and probably the smaller villages do not have processionals on Saturday. I'm not sure about Jerez or Cordoba. Malaga has processionals though so if your big interest is in seeing the processionals (and you're not burned out on them by then) you may factor this into your choice.
I've visited Sevilla every year for Semana Santa since 2003, with the exception of last year when I visited for Feria. They are so very different and I enjoyed them both but my personal preference is Semana Santa. Maybe your friends wille extend another invite in 2012 and you can do both
Semana Santa is definately a more solomn time but it is still fun. Obviously there is a very strong religious tone. Everything is centered in the city and it is VERY crowded and full of life. Tapas bars are usually packed and if a processional is passing through the neighborhood you may even be unable to more, blocked by crowds of people. In fact, I can generally only take about 1/2 of Semana Santa in Sevilla as I like to go somewhere else that is is not so crowded. That said, you really feel like you're in the middle of the entire celebration.
Feria is located outside of the city. As an outsider, you are not allowed into the private casetas. There are a couple of public casatas at the fairground you can enter. I've never seen such beautiful people in my life. The women wore elaborate dresses with their hair and makeup perfectly done. Men were in their best suits looking amazing! It was quite the place to see and be seen. Many people arrived during the day on horse and carriage which paraded through the feria announcing their arrival. I think the most shocking thing to me was the people really let loose and there was quite a bit of drinking. Usually in Spain there is drinking but not to this extent - so it was just surprising to me! In Sevilla itself it was not at all crowded. You saw people dressed up or on horseback heading to the fairgrounds but it was very quiet in town (very much a contrast to Semana Santa). I really enjoyed Feria but very much felt like an outsider. If I had been with someone from Sevilla it would have been different.
As far as where to go for the other part of Semana Santa here's some ideas:
Jerez or Corodoba: both are supposed to have beautiful processions and a more intimate feel (less crowded) than Sevilla
Malaga: I've always wanted to visit Malaga for Semana Santa as it is the big rival of Sevilla. The paseos are so large they cannot carry them from underneath (as in Sevilla).
Sanlucar or El Puerto de Santa Maria: both much smaller towns that are supposed to have nice processions and not alot of crowds
Ecija, Carmona, Osuna, Antequera: smaller, like Sanlucar and el Puerto but a different feel as they are inland
Cadiz: my 2nd Semana Santa home. What can I say? It's my favorite city in Spain so I have a strong personal bias. I love the processions here - it can get very crowded but nothing like Sevilla.
Arcos: for a really different Easter Sunday experience there is a bull run in Arocs at noon and 3pm!
Note: many cities do not have processionals on Saturday and very few on Friday (the big night is Thursday night). I know Cadiz, Arcos and probably the smaller villages do not have processionals on Saturday. I'm not sure about Jerez or Cordoba. Malaga has processionals though so if your big interest is in seeing the processionals (and you're not burned out on them by then) you may factor this into your choice.
Jul 18th, 2010, 04:35 PM
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CathyM , thank you so much for a detailed response.
I will ask our Spanish friends for their suggestions, but
I am really interested in ideas from travelers like you and other Fodorites . The locals may have a slightly different point of view .
Thanks again.
I will ask our Spanish friends for their suggestions, but
I am really interested in ideas from travelers like you and other Fodorites . The locals may have a slightly different point of view .
Thanks again.
Jul 18th, 2010, 05:29 PM
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I was in Sevilla for part of Semana Santa last year, staying with friends who were living and working there for a few months. We walked out of their apartment at 5 am, 10 am, or 10 pm to see a float slowly emerge from or reenter its church, sometimes with just inches on either side. It was an amazing experience to stand in the middle of the night along with hundreds of others, hearing music blaring, watching hooded penitents walk by holding tall candles with young boys going from one to another asking for drips of wax, seeing a fresh team of carriers adjust their headcloths and duck under a 1-ton float to carry it further. There are almost 60 processions during the week, some with more than 1000 members, some of the processions lasting 10 hours. It is solemn but also joyous. We saw one penitent carrying his baby, and others chatting with friends and family along the route.
Our friends were also there for feria and really enjoyed that too. Through their work connections they had access to some of the tents. I wasn't there so I can't compare the two, but I would definitely say, Don't miss the chance to be in Sevilla for Semana Santa.
Our friends were also there for feria and really enjoyed that too. Through their work connections they had access to some of the tents. I wasn't there so I can't compare the two, but I would definitely say, Don't miss the chance to be in Sevilla for Semana Santa.
Jul 18th, 2010, 06:19 PM
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I apologize, but if you will permit me, I'd like relate the route I followed to having great respect for Semana Santa. Believe me, I will get to Sevilla and "where to go". I think it is imortant to understand that I am a Norteamericano and a Protestant.
In March of 1993, on the Wednesday of Semana Santa, I arrived in Antigua, Guatemala to "study Spanish". It was, literally, a 4 day decision, and I had not done the necessary homework to really know where I was going. About 9 pm, from the cafe, I heard strange sounds from the street. It was a group of about 8-9 people walking down a dark, narrow street. [Antigua is a colonial city with narrow streets with high walls on both sides.] A small wheelbarrrow carried a noisy a gas powered generator that powered flourescent lights shining on a 5 foot figure of Christ. A young man maybe 18 carried a boom box playing religious music, an older lady was chanting, and sermonizing. The remainder of the group seemed to sing along when it fit. About half the group were in native Mayan dress. I followed the group for about an hour. At no time did they have a following or supporters on the curb. However, periodically, shuttered windows on house would open and, as best as i could see, would offer water etc. All this in the dark streets of probably the oldest city in the Americas. [Cortez had his headquarters here after the Mexico campaign.] I was mesmerized and a bit chagrined.
Thursday night was the Pasa de la Senoras - huge 40-50 ft long "floats" carried on the shoulders of the women of the town. No wheels, no skids, no men - they pick it up and carry it for about a mile and a half. Again, a lighted figure of Christ.
By avocation I am a furniture maker. Friday morning I am walking about the town and from behind one of the high walls I get the scent of sawdust. Impolite, but never less, I open the door onto a courtyard maybe 75 feet square. In the middle, on saw horses, is the major "float" for Semana Sunday. 60 foot long, of Spanish sidra [cedar] it has been constucted and carved by the 6-8 men in the courtyard. It was elegant with great detail and carving that you would see on fine furniture - indeed that was their business outside Semana Santa Season. We talked a bit and they understood that I was fellow "carpintero" [but not in their league] and they showed me the tools they used to construct the float. Not one thing was electrically powered, it was a hand chisels, planes, and saws. They were so good it was unbelievable.
Early Sunday morning, [5 ish] the neighbors on the streets began to construct their fombras. [Carpets] For the entire route of the procession [2-3 miles] the pavement was covered by artistic "carpets" made of nothing but natural materials. Flowers, vines, leaves, sawdust, etc which were woven into murals, designs, and pictures. It was clearly a contest between the blocks on the steet. It was absolutely spectacular. As there was about 5 hours between the start of building the fombras and the procession itself, everything was sprinkled with water regualarly to keep it fresh for the procession.
Bottom line: A processsion of 2000, highlighted by the float I had had seen in construction, came through about 10am. The artistic fombras were destroyed but the prided lingered on.
I was so moved by the emotion, the dedication, and the joy of the people of Antigua that I had to go the ONLY town that has a larger celebration of Semana Santa -Sevilla!
Semana Santas 1997 and 2001 I was in Sevilla. It is spectacular but different. There is no doubt in my mind that this is the greatest pageant on earth. You cannot help but be moved by the simple majesty of the week, the elegance of the pasos and the crowd, and historical roots of the event. It is unmatched in my opinion.
Now, to finally get to your question: If I were you I would go to Semana Santa, and after a bit of Sevilla, I would head to a small town, not on tv and not in the guide books. With a bit of work I am sure you could find one with a strong church, an active priest, and a bit of civic pride and you would see a totally different, yet equally moving side of Semana Santa. Try Alcala del Rio.
In March of 1993, on the Wednesday of Semana Santa, I arrived in Antigua, Guatemala to "study Spanish". It was, literally, a 4 day decision, and I had not done the necessary homework to really know where I was going. About 9 pm, from the cafe, I heard strange sounds from the street. It was a group of about 8-9 people walking down a dark, narrow street. [Antigua is a colonial city with narrow streets with high walls on both sides.] A small wheelbarrrow carried a noisy a gas powered generator that powered flourescent lights shining on a 5 foot figure of Christ. A young man maybe 18 carried a boom box playing religious music, an older lady was chanting, and sermonizing. The remainder of the group seemed to sing along when it fit. About half the group were in native Mayan dress. I followed the group for about an hour. At no time did they have a following or supporters on the curb. However, periodically, shuttered windows on house would open and, as best as i could see, would offer water etc. All this in the dark streets of probably the oldest city in the Americas. [Cortez had his headquarters here after the Mexico campaign.] I was mesmerized and a bit chagrined.
Thursday night was the Pasa de la Senoras - huge 40-50 ft long "floats" carried on the shoulders of the women of the town. No wheels, no skids, no men - they pick it up and carry it for about a mile and a half. Again, a lighted figure of Christ.
By avocation I am a furniture maker. Friday morning I am walking about the town and from behind one of the high walls I get the scent of sawdust. Impolite, but never less, I open the door onto a courtyard maybe 75 feet square. In the middle, on saw horses, is the major "float" for Semana Sunday. 60 foot long, of Spanish sidra [cedar] it has been constucted and carved by the 6-8 men in the courtyard. It was elegant with great detail and carving that you would see on fine furniture - indeed that was their business outside Semana Santa Season. We talked a bit and they understood that I was fellow "carpintero" [but not in their league] and they showed me the tools they used to construct the float. Not one thing was electrically powered, it was a hand chisels, planes, and saws. They were so good it was unbelievable.
Early Sunday morning, [5 ish] the neighbors on the streets began to construct their fombras. [Carpets] For the entire route of the procession [2-3 miles] the pavement was covered by artistic "carpets" made of nothing but natural materials. Flowers, vines, leaves, sawdust, etc which were woven into murals, designs, and pictures. It was clearly a contest between the blocks on the steet. It was absolutely spectacular. As there was about 5 hours between the start of building the fombras and the procession itself, everything was sprinkled with water regualarly to keep it fresh for the procession.
Bottom line: A processsion of 2000, highlighted by the float I had had seen in construction, came through about 10am. The artistic fombras were destroyed but the prided lingered on.
I was so moved by the emotion, the dedication, and the joy of the people of Antigua that I had to go the ONLY town that has a larger celebration of Semana Santa -Sevilla!
Semana Santas 1997 and 2001 I was in Sevilla. It is spectacular but different. There is no doubt in my mind that this is the greatest pageant on earth. You cannot help but be moved by the simple majesty of the week, the elegance of the pasos and the crowd, and historical roots of the event. It is unmatched in my opinion.
Now, to finally get to your question: If I were you I would go to Semana Santa, and after a bit of Sevilla, I would head to a small town, not on tv and not in the guide books. With a bit of work I am sure you could find one with a strong church, an active priest, and a bit of civic pride and you would see a totally different, yet equally moving side of Semana Santa. Try Alcala del Rio.
Jul 19th, 2010, 01:17 AM
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cheapboxofwine,
The flamenco dancer you mention is the 26 years old malagueña Rocío Molina. New York Times presented her last year as "one of the finest dancers in the world today". Have seen her six times during the past two and a half years...
You never know where she goes next. Here are clips from two very different performances within a week this May.
In Barcelona: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_E5ZE3nqUl4
In Madrid (from her latest work "Cuando las piedras vuelen" (When stones fly) which she is taking to this years Bienal in Sevilla): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfdU_qYYAAE
The flamenco dancer you mention is the 26 years old malagueña Rocío Molina. New York Times presented her last year as "one of the finest dancers in the world today". Have seen her six times during the past two and a half years...
You never know where she goes next. Here are clips from two very different performances within a week this May.
In Barcelona: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_E5ZE3nqUl4
In Madrid (from her latest work "Cuando las piedras vuelen" (When stones fly) which she is taking to this years Bienal in Sevilla): http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=KfdU_qYYAAE
Jul 19th, 2010, 01:40 AM
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Kimhe,
Yes! That is her! I live in Sweden and she performed at our local theater a couple of years ago. My breath was literally taken away by her performance. I had never seen a flamenco dance before and it was the whole package....her dancing which was so intense and the small troop of other dancer and musicians that performed with her. Simply fabulous!
As for the other posts. VERY interesting perspectives. As I said, we stayed in Jerez during the SS which was not at all touristy. The processions went night and day. I vividly remember waking up at 5 a.m. hearing the procession moving down in front of our pension as it did every day. I had to laugh to myself since it was wonderful. The men carrying the Virgin Mary for miles on end, some barefoot even. The ladies in their mantillas walking on cobblestone in highheels. The young girls and boys collecting the wax for their wax balls. And seeing the families following along wiping the sweat off the brows. It was definitely a family affair and made for a safe watching and holiday.
Yes! That is her! I live in Sweden and she performed at our local theater a couple of years ago. My breath was literally taken away by her performance. I had never seen a flamenco dance before and it was the whole package....her dancing which was so intense and the small troop of other dancer and musicians that performed with her. Simply fabulous!
As for the other posts. VERY interesting perspectives. As I said, we stayed in Jerez during the SS which was not at all touristy. The processions went night and day. I vividly remember waking up at 5 a.m. hearing the procession moving down in front of our pension as it did every day. I had to laugh to myself since it was wonderful. The men carrying the Virgin Mary for miles on end, some barefoot even. The ladies in their mantillas walking on cobblestone in highheels. The young girls and boys collecting the wax for their wax balls. And seeing the families following along wiping the sweat off the brows. It was definitely a family affair and made for a safe watching and holiday.
Jul 19th, 2010, 08:06 AM
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I've never heard of the processions going all night and day with the exception of La Madruga, Thursday night/Friday morning and I know of one that leaves Easter morning and goes through the Sevilla cathedral at dawn.
Otherwise they generally start mid afternoon and are back to their home churches no later than 2a.m.
Otherwise they generally start mid afternoon and are back to their home churches no later than 2a.m.
