September Trip to Normandy/Brittany/Paris
Feb 8th, 2015, 05:19 PM
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September Trip to Normandy/Brittany/Paris
I am way overdue submitting my trip report from this past September! I don't know where the time goes. I did a lot of research for this trip and it really paid off. We had a wonderful time and plan to revisit this area in the next couple of years. Here is an overview of the trip. I will post more details on retaurants, sites, accommodations and travel tips. I will also post pictures.
We stayed 7 days in Port-en-Bessin in a fisherman's cottage right on the water facing the entrance to the harbor. The name of the rental is Le Gite des 3 Moussaillons. It was a two bedroom/2 bath, three story home. The view was wonderful. We were able to watch the tides go in and out and watch the fishing boats and kayakers go in and out. We had breakfast every morning at a little table by the window. We had spectacular weather while we were there.
While in the Normandy area, we spent one day with a D-Day private guide. We also visited the American Cemetery, Arromanche and the Tapestry Museumi n Bayeux on our own. We spent one day visiting Honfleur and driving the Cidre Route. We also visited Mont St. Michel with a stop in Villedieu les Poeles (copper town) on the way.
While in Brittany, we stayed one night in downtown Dinan and two nights at a Relais and Chateau on the Pink Granite Coast. Our hotel in Dinan was Hotel Larvor. On the Pink Granite coast, we stayed Manoir de Lan Kerellec.
We dropped of the rental car in Rennes then took the train to Paris. We stayed 3 nights in a very cute apartment on rue Tiquetone, which is right off of Rue Montorguiel in the 2nd. We really enjoyed this area. Lots of bakeries and food stalls and walking distance to just about everything. We liked the area so much that we are staying in the same area again this coming September.
We stayed 7 days in Port-en-Bessin in a fisherman's cottage right on the water facing the entrance to the harbor. The name of the rental is Le Gite des 3 Moussaillons. It was a two bedroom/2 bath, three story home. The view was wonderful. We were able to watch the tides go in and out and watch the fishing boats and kayakers go in and out. We had breakfast every morning at a little table by the window. We had spectacular weather while we were there.
While in the Normandy area, we spent one day with a D-Day private guide. We also visited the American Cemetery, Arromanche and the Tapestry Museumi n Bayeux on our own. We spent one day visiting Honfleur and driving the Cidre Route. We also visited Mont St. Michel with a stop in Villedieu les Poeles (copper town) on the way.
While in Brittany, we stayed one night in downtown Dinan and two nights at a Relais and Chateau on the Pink Granite Coast. Our hotel in Dinan was Hotel Larvor. On the Pink Granite coast, we stayed Manoir de Lan Kerellec.
We dropped of the rental car in Rennes then took the train to Paris. We stayed 3 nights in a very cute apartment on rue Tiquetone, which is right off of Rue Montorguiel in the 2nd. We really enjoyed this area. Lots of bakeries and food stalls and walking distance to just about everything. We liked the area so much that we are staying in the same area again this coming September.
Feb 8th, 2015, 05:51 PM
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I had pre-arranged a pick up from Victor's Cabs upon our arrival at CDG. He was waiting for us when we came out of customs. We stopped in the airport to get EUROS from the cash machine, then he drove us to the St Lazare Train Station. It was a Saturday morning, so traffic in to the city was light. We had a couple hours before our train departed, so we had coffee and breakfast at a Starbucks, walked across the street to the Orange store and got two SIM cards for our phones and grabbed a bagette sandwich for the train ride.
Our first night in Port-en-Bessin, we had dinner Bistro d'a Cote. it was recommended by various sources and didn't disappoint. The staff was very friendly. We didn't do the prix fixe. We shared an escargot entree and each had their famous moules-frites. I had the traditional with cream and my DH had the cream and bacon. Both delicious and more than we could possible finish. We ended with a green salad. Not on the menu, but always avaialble if you ask.
Went to the Sunday morning market in town and bought provisions for lunch. We bought beautiful bibb lettuce, tomatoes, rotisserie chicken and three cheeses (Pon't L'eveque, a Thomme de Pyrenees and another mild cheese that I can't remember the name of. We also bought some w locally made strawberry jam for our breakfasts. We then picked up bread at the boulangerie. We still needed some staples so decided to drive in to Bayeaux to the Carefour we had spotted the day before. After a futile trip to Carefour (closed on Sunday) we found a Super U on the edge of Port-en-Bessin. Besides the basics, we purchased a pre-made vinaigrette with red wine vinegar that we got addicted to! When we hit Paris, I purchased three bottles to bring home!
By the time we made it back to the quay, the town was packed and parking was impossible to find. We drove up the hill overlooking the town and discovered a spectacular view of the harbor and the village. We also discovered a German pill box set into the hills. We realized it was right above where we were staying! There is a funny story about the parking spot, which I will share later.
Dinner sunday night was at Fleur de Sel. It is right on the quay by all the fishing boats. Much nicer atmosphere than the night before and VERY popular. Important to book ahead. I had Dover Sole Meuniere and my DH had Monkfish. Both excellent.
Next day: Our private tour of major D-Day sites.
Our first night in Port-en-Bessin, we had dinner Bistro d'a Cote. it was recommended by various sources and didn't disappoint. The staff was very friendly. We didn't do the prix fixe. We shared an escargot entree and each had their famous moules-frites. I had the traditional with cream and my DH had the cream and bacon. Both delicious and more than we could possible finish. We ended with a green salad. Not on the menu, but always avaialble if you ask.
Went to the Sunday morning market in town and bought provisions for lunch. We bought beautiful bibb lettuce, tomatoes, rotisserie chicken and three cheeses (Pon't L'eveque, a Thomme de Pyrenees and another mild cheese that I can't remember the name of. We also bought some w locally made strawberry jam for our breakfasts. We then picked up bread at the boulangerie. We still needed some staples so decided to drive in to Bayeaux to the Carefour we had spotted the day before. After a futile trip to Carefour (closed on Sunday) we found a Super U on the edge of Port-en-Bessin. Besides the basics, we purchased a pre-made vinaigrette with red wine vinegar that we got addicted to! When we hit Paris, I purchased three bottles to bring home!
By the time we made it back to the quay, the town was packed and parking was impossible to find. We drove up the hill overlooking the town and discovered a spectacular view of the harbor and the village. We also discovered a German pill box set into the hills. We realized it was right above where we were staying! There is a funny story about the parking spot, which I will share later.
Dinner sunday night was at Fleur de Sel. It is right on the quay by all the fishing boats. Much nicer atmosphere than the night before and VERY popular. Important to book ahead. I had Dover Sole Meuniere and my DH had Monkfish. Both excellent.
Next day: Our private tour of major D-Day sites.
Feb 8th, 2015, 06:08 PM
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Would you believe - it was just the Super U brand?! It was excellent! I don't know what it was but we both loved it. We are already out (well, I gave one bottle to my mother☺️)! I'm bringing more back when we go this September. My husband is big on a green salad at the end of the meal. Something I introduced him to years ago.
Feb 9th, 2015, 02:24 PM
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D-Day Tour with Executive D-Day Tours (Bertrand)
I tried to post pictures, but not working. I will put together a slideshow on shutterfly and attach later in the report.
We met Bertrand at 9:00am in front of the Bayeux War Museum. FYI, Bayeux is only a bout a 10-15 drive from Port-en-Bessin. A straight shot down a two lane road.
Bertrand is French and married to an American. He is extremelly knowledgeable on ALL aspects of the D-Day invasion. He is so passionate on the subject that he even visited the factory in New Orleans that produced the amphibious crafts. In front of the museum, there are examples of all the various tanks (US, Allied and German). He explained the differences and the superiority of the German tanks. He explained how even though the Germans had better quality it was a victory of mass or volume VS quality.
We first stopped at the British Cemetery for a few moments then on to the German Cemetery. I didnt anticipate this cemetery impacted me the way it did. All the grave markers are flat. It was very well maintained by German soldiers. Interesting to note, the land does not belong to the Germans as the American and British cemeteries do. It was a very beautiful, austere and peaceful place. There are two men buried in each grave, so the privates were mixed in with the SS and other officers. By chance, we stopped in front of a row of markers when I looked down and saw "Michaelis" on the grave marker. That is my husband"s last name. He is also German. The soldier was an 18 year old private. We went to the registry and looked up Michaelis. There are only two MIchaelis' out of almost 21,000 men buried there!
Next we went to Pont du Hoc. There are still large craters and bunkers intact. Bertrand explained to us that 5 of the 6 105mm cannons had been moved that day due to the ferocious bombing from the ships. The guns were found later by the allies with drunk Germans guarding them!
There are opened cement bags frozen in time. Future reinforcements never finished. The famous cliffs are amazing. Hard to imagine soldiers climbing up those cliffs and surviving. A fascinating place that we will never forget.
Next was St Mere Eglise. Learned the story of the parachuters and that night . Can't remember details, but he did point out bullet holes in the walls and iron gating across form the church. We had lunch at one of the tourist spots across from the church. Awful. Bring your lunch and picnic if you can!
Trip tip form Bertrand: Be careful with personal belongings in the lot by the church. They have had numerous break ins because its such a tourist site.
On the way to Omaha Beach, We drove along small roads where he stopped and pointed out the hedgerows surrounding the farmer's fields. He went in to great detail regarding the difficulty our tanks had with these hedgerows and the advantages the Germans had.
We spent a lot of time at Omaha Beach, walking the beach, discussing battle plans and looking up at the bunkers. On the way down to the beach, he stopped and asked if we noticed anything. No. He backed up and pointed out the hidden bunkers in the hills that had a a complete view down the beach and impossible to see from the sea.
He dropped us off at about 6:00pm. He really earned his fee with us! My DH is a history buff on WWII, so had lots of questions. One of the things I really appreciated about Bertrand is the French perspective he gave us on WWII. He was very well versed on the geo-political aspects of the war. It was money well spent and a highlight of our time in Normandy.
That night we grazed at home, by candle light, on smoked salmon, cheese, pate, baguette, green salad, champagne and a bordeaux.
Next Day: Mont St. Michel
I tried to post pictures, but not working. I will put together a slideshow on shutterfly and attach later in the report.
We met Bertrand at 9:00am in front of the Bayeux War Museum. FYI, Bayeux is only a bout a 10-15 drive from Port-en-Bessin. A straight shot down a two lane road.
Bertrand is French and married to an American. He is extremelly knowledgeable on ALL aspects of the D-Day invasion. He is so passionate on the subject that he even visited the factory in New Orleans that produced the amphibious crafts. In front of the museum, there are examples of all the various tanks (US, Allied and German). He explained the differences and the superiority of the German tanks. He explained how even though the Germans had better quality it was a victory of mass or volume VS quality.
We first stopped at the British Cemetery for a few moments then on to the German Cemetery. I didnt anticipate this cemetery impacted me the way it did. All the grave markers are flat. It was very well maintained by German soldiers. Interesting to note, the land does not belong to the Germans as the American and British cemeteries do. It was a very beautiful, austere and peaceful place. There are two men buried in each grave, so the privates were mixed in with the SS and other officers. By chance, we stopped in front of a row of markers when I looked down and saw "Michaelis" on the grave marker. That is my husband"s last name. He is also German. The soldier was an 18 year old private. We went to the registry and looked up Michaelis. There are only two MIchaelis' out of almost 21,000 men buried there!
Next we went to Pont du Hoc. There are still large craters and bunkers intact. Bertrand explained to us that 5 of the 6 105mm cannons had been moved that day due to the ferocious bombing from the ships. The guns were found later by the allies with drunk Germans guarding them!
There are opened cement bags frozen in time. Future reinforcements never finished. The famous cliffs are amazing. Hard to imagine soldiers climbing up those cliffs and surviving. A fascinating place that we will never forget.
Next was St Mere Eglise. Learned the story of the parachuters and that night . Can't remember details, but he did point out bullet holes in the walls and iron gating across form the church. We had lunch at one of the tourist spots across from the church. Awful. Bring your lunch and picnic if you can!
Trip tip form Bertrand: Be careful with personal belongings in the lot by the church. They have had numerous break ins because its such a tourist site.
On the way to Omaha Beach, We drove along small roads where he stopped and pointed out the hedgerows surrounding the farmer's fields. He went in to great detail regarding the difficulty our tanks had with these hedgerows and the advantages the Germans had.
We spent a lot of time at Omaha Beach, walking the beach, discussing battle plans and looking up at the bunkers. On the way down to the beach, he stopped and asked if we noticed anything. No. He backed up and pointed out the hidden bunkers in the hills that had a a complete view down the beach and impossible to see from the sea.
He dropped us off at about 6:00pm. He really earned his fee with us! My DH is a history buff on WWII, so had lots of questions. One of the things I really appreciated about Bertrand is the French perspective he gave us on WWII. He was very well versed on the geo-political aspects of the war. It was money well spent and a highlight of our time in Normandy.
That night we grazed at home, by candle light, on smoked salmon, cheese, pate, baguette, green salad, champagne and a bordeaux.
Next Day: Mont St. Michel
Feb 23rd, 2015, 09:56 AM
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Remembering our visit to Normandy beachheads and American cemetery a few years ago. Very moving. Didn't get to Mont St. Michel but did tour quaint Honfleur and up to Fecamp and Etretat Cliffs. You didn't say much about Bayeux Tapestry which we found impressive and also adjacent church. We were on a Seine R. cruise.
Feb 23rd, 2015, 05:26 PM
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Ozarksbill
We thoroughly enjoyed the Bayeux Tapestry. It is a must see while in the area, an incredible historical document. . It is hard to comprehend how much effort went into this tapestry. My DH and I were both surprised at how graphic it was. It depicted the brutality and savagery of war and battle and our most human aspects from sex to toileting.
On to Mont St Michel:
During my research for the trip, I happened upon a town that makes copper, Villedieu les Poeles. We have Mauviel pans hanging in our kitchen, along with other decorative copper pieces, so we were interested in the checking out the town. There is also a Mauviel outlet on the edge of town. We decided to stop there for lunch on our way to Mont St Michel. The town was a disappointment, but we did buy a few things at the outlet and had a wonderful lunch. I think I found the restaurant through either Chowhound or TripAdvisor. Manoir d'Acherie is on the outskirts of town. A small family run hotel with a restaurant very popular with the locals. The main dining room has a huge fireplace that must be wonderful on a cool autumn or wintry evening. They also had an outside garden setting, but was full when we arrived. I think we both had their daily plat (pork with an apple cream sauce). They made up one of the best green salads for us.
After lunch, we drove to St Michel. We arrived around 3:00pm. We parked in the large parking area and took the bus to the Mont. There was a flow of humanity leaving as we arrived. Perfect! We didn't dally around at the shops and made our way against the flow up all the stairs. When we arrived at the top, the view was amazing! It was low tide and hardly a cloud in the sky. The beauty of going in the afternoon is that the crowds were also low inside the monestary. I asked my DH for his thoughts of the day. His only regret is that we didn't walk out on the flats with the tide low. Also, the best pictures are as you approach St Michel near where you park.
We thoroughly enjoyed the Bayeux Tapestry. It is a must see while in the area, an incredible historical document. . It is hard to comprehend how much effort went into this tapestry. My DH and I were both surprised at how graphic it was. It depicted the brutality and savagery of war and battle and our most human aspects from sex to toileting.
On to Mont St Michel:
During my research for the trip, I happened upon a town that makes copper, Villedieu les Poeles. We have Mauviel pans hanging in our kitchen, along with other decorative copper pieces, so we were interested in the checking out the town. There is also a Mauviel outlet on the edge of town. We decided to stop there for lunch on our way to Mont St Michel. The town was a disappointment, but we did buy a few things at the outlet and had a wonderful lunch. I think I found the restaurant through either Chowhound or TripAdvisor. Manoir d'Acherie is on the outskirts of town. A small family run hotel with a restaurant very popular with the locals. The main dining room has a huge fireplace that must be wonderful on a cool autumn or wintry evening. They also had an outside garden setting, but was full when we arrived. I think we both had their daily plat (pork with an apple cream sauce). They made up one of the best green salads for us.
After lunch, we drove to St Michel. We arrived around 3:00pm. We parked in the large parking area and took the bus to the Mont. There was a flow of humanity leaving as we arrived. Perfect! We didn't dally around at the shops and made our way against the flow up all the stairs. When we arrived at the top, the view was amazing! It was low tide and hardly a cloud in the sky. The beauty of going in the afternoon is that the crowds were also low inside the monestary. I asked my DH for his thoughts of the day. His only regret is that we didn't walk out on the flats with the tide low. Also, the best pictures are as you approach St Michel near where you park.
Feb 23rd, 2015, 05:45 PM
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The next day, we drove to Honfleur. We had lunch reservations at La Gambetta. We arrived late morning and it was already packed with with tourists. We walked around the harbor for a while, then made our way up a winding cobblestone street to La Gambetta. What a special place! It was empty when we arrived, but quickly filled up. I can't remember what we ordered, just remembered it being delicious and that I loved the ambience.
After Honfleur, we drove the Cidre route. We stopped in Cambremer and Beuvron en Auge. We also visited M.Huet on the outskirts of Cambremer. Their cidre was excellent. We sampled two different kinds. A dry version and a sweeter version. We bought a few bottles to take back with us. I still have one in the fridge. Not sure what I'm saving it for! I didn't try the Calvados, so can't comment on that.
Dinner that night was at Le Vauban. A BIG disappointment. The interior is very dated and the food wasn't special. Wasn't crazy about the staff either.
The next day: American Cemetery and Arromanche
After Honfleur, we drove the Cidre route. We stopped in Cambremer and Beuvron en Auge. We also visited M.Huet on the outskirts of Cambremer. Their cidre was excellent. We sampled two different kinds. A dry version and a sweeter version. We bought a few bottles to take back with us. I still have one in the fridge. Not sure what I'm saving it for! I didn't try the Calvados, so can't comment on that.
Dinner that night was at Le Vauban. A BIG disappointment. The interior is very dated and the food wasn't special. Wasn't crazy about the staff either.
The next day: American Cemetery and Arromanche
Feb 23rd, 2015, 06:15 PM
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This was our next to last day in Normandy. We spent the day at the American Cemetery and Arromanche. So much has been written about the American Cemetery that it's hard to know what to add. It's a moving experience to be on these hallowed grounds. You almost have to sit down to take it all in. It gives a new meaning to Memorial Day. It should be a requirement for all Americans to visit this place.
I highly recommend the movies they have playing inside the visitor's center. These videos put it all in perspective.
After walking the grounds, we took the steps down to the beach. We had planned the day to be able to walk out at low tide. We walked the beach and reflected on the enormity of what transpired on these beaches and the odds that were against these soldiers.
After the cemetery, we drove to Arromanche, the Mulberry Harbor. Fascinating. The fact that they could put a harbor together in such a short period of time and some of it still sits there 70 years later!
My DH just commented on how amazing it is that they were able to bring in tons and tons of ordinances (jeeps, tanks, troop transport trucks etc.) across that harbor and on to those small roads.
One of the things I forgot to mention that our guide pointed out to us was the kilometer markers that start at the beach and count out every kilometer on their march through France to liberate Europe.
We topped off a very special day with the most special meal in Normandy at La Rapiere in Bayeux.The ambience is wonderful, staff very warm and inviting. I don't remember what I ordered, but know that my DH had Dover Sole. It is a very popular place, so make reservations. They were turning people away while we were there.
I highly recommend the movies they have playing inside the visitor's center. These videos put it all in perspective.
After walking the grounds, we took the steps down to the beach. We had planned the day to be able to walk out at low tide. We walked the beach and reflected on the enormity of what transpired on these beaches and the odds that were against these soldiers.
After the cemetery, we drove to Arromanche, the Mulberry Harbor. Fascinating. The fact that they could put a harbor together in such a short period of time and some of it still sits there 70 years later!
My DH just commented on how amazing it is that they were able to bring in tons and tons of ordinances (jeeps, tanks, troop transport trucks etc.) across that harbor and on to those small roads.
One of the things I forgot to mention that our guide pointed out to us was the kilometer markers that start at the beach and count out every kilometer on their march through France to liberate Europe.
We topped off a very special day with the most special meal in Normandy at La Rapiere in Bayeux.The ambience is wonderful, staff very warm and inviting. I don't remember what I ordered, but know that my DH had Dover Sole. It is a very popular place, so make reservations. They were turning people away while we were there.
Feb 24th, 2015, 01:10 AM
#18
well, Chutney, you have certainly made up for lost time. I've really enjoyed reading about your travels and your comments on them. You are definitely making me think about taking another trip to Normandy, which we had tended to neglect in favour of Brittany in recent years.
