Segovia v. Toledo
Oct 17th, 2004, 09:28 AM
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I'm not sure that Degas is not writing with tongue firmly in cheek, but here are some of the reasons why I choose Toledo over Segovia.
For one thing, Toledo concentrates within a very small space traces of Spanish history from the Visigoths to the Spanish Civil War.
In its tiny winding streets, it has churches that span centuries of different styles. Some of El Greco's most famous paintings are in Toledo, including the "Burial of the Count of Orgaz." The Cathedral alone can be profitably explored for hours. The Alcazar, however, which was originally built in the 13th century, is largely a reconstruction, since it was almost completely destroyed during the Civil War.
For one thing, Toledo concentrates within a very small space traces of Spanish history from the Visigoths to the Spanish Civil War.
In its tiny winding streets, it has churches that span centuries of different styles. Some of El Greco's most famous paintings are in Toledo, including the "Burial of the Count of Orgaz." The Cathedral alone can be profitably explored for hours. The Alcazar, however, which was originally built in the 13th century, is largely a reconstruction, since it was almost completely destroyed during the Civil War.
Oct 17th, 2004, 09:39 AM
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Sorry -- pressed wrong key.
One can eat well in Toledo if one chooses one's restaurant carefully; one can sit in the open in one of the cafes on the small main square and people watch; one can buy, if one is so inclined, the damascene ware for which Toledo is famous.
Segovia has a Cathedral and an Alcazar, which is also an almost total reconstruction. It has a few arches of a Roman aqueduct, and its restaurants are famous for suckling pig.
If I recall correctly, it takes about an hour to get to Toledo and about two hours to get to Segovia.
One can eat well in Toledo if one chooses one's restaurant carefully; one can sit in the open in one of the cafes on the small main square and people watch; one can buy, if one is so inclined, the damascene ware for which Toledo is famous.
Segovia has a Cathedral and an Alcazar, which is also an almost total reconstruction. It has a few arches of a Roman aqueduct, and its restaurants are famous for suckling pig.
If I recall correctly, it takes about an hour to get to Toledo and about two hours to get to Segovia.
Oct 17th, 2004, 09:43 AM
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We spent five days in Madrid a year ago and took day trips to Segovia and Toledo. IMO, both are very enjoyable and have more than enough to keep you occupied for a day. Both are about an hour bus ride from Madrid, so easy to get to.
If you do go to Toledo, my one bit of advice might be to avoid going on a weekend. I suppose that the time of year might make a difference (you don't say when you are going), but both times I've been to Toledo (June and October) were on Saturdays and it was oppressively crowded -- to the point that sidewalks were packed, restaurants and shops were packed, as were all the various sights. It detracted quite a bit from the experience. There are quite a few day tours that go to Toledo and it seemed like on the weekend, there were quite a few locals from around the area who also were visiting there. I've heard Toledo takes on a much different atmosphere in the evening after the daytrippers go home, so if I get back there (hopefully, someday), I will plan to spend the night.
Eloise mentions some of the highlights for Toledo. Also, Santa Maria la Blanca.
In Segovia, we really enjoyed the back-walk along the base of the city walls below the alcazar. And the Aqueduct and Igelsia de la Vera Cruz (Knights Templar church) down near the river also were quite interesting.
Have fun, whatever you decide to do.
If you do go to Toledo, my one bit of advice might be to avoid going on a weekend. I suppose that the time of year might make a difference (you don't say when you are going), but both times I've been to Toledo (June and October) were on Saturdays and it was oppressively crowded -- to the point that sidewalks were packed, restaurants and shops were packed, as were all the various sights. It detracted quite a bit from the experience. There are quite a few day tours that go to Toledo and it seemed like on the weekend, there were quite a few locals from around the area who also were visiting there. I've heard Toledo takes on a much different atmosphere in the evening after the daytrippers go home, so if I get back there (hopefully, someday), I will plan to spend the night.
Eloise mentions some of the highlights for Toledo. Also, Santa Maria la Blanca.
In Segovia, we really enjoyed the back-walk along the base of the city walls below the alcazar. And the Aqueduct and Igelsia de la Vera Cruz (Knights Templar church) down near the river also were quite interesting.
Have fun, whatever you decide to do.
Oct 17th, 2004, 04:30 PM
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Other than the Alcazar, we did not care that much for Segovia. It seems like just another small Spanish city. But Toledo has a medieval feel that is very unique. The cathedral and its art works are magnificent, and if you are interested in El Greco's paintings the Burial of the Count of Orgaz alone is worth the trip. I agree with Eloise -- Toledo without a doubt.
