kanadajin

I have been scouring this forum and travel guide books, and thought I might post this question since I do not seem to have found a good answer by myself just yet.

In late March, we will be going from Nerja to Sevilla, where we will drop off our rental car upon arrival (hotel already reserved). I am looking at filling a 2 night window in between these localities. We have already been to Ronda (twice), Carmona, Osuna, Gaucin, Caseres (for instance) and would prefer to discover something else this time around.

Some ideas I have been toying around with :
1- Arcos de la Frontera (too similar to Ronda ?)
2- Antequera (for El Torcal maybe?)
3- Baeza/Ubeda (look interesting, but seems like quite a detour distance wise...)
4- Cordoba (already seen the Mezquita, but enjoyed the town and thought we might want to spend extra time, but a good part of our itinerary is already in larger cities...)

I would be very interested in comments or constructive critique on the above, or alternate suggestions on filling those 2 days.

kanadajin

kimhe

My suggestion would be Antequera (pop. 40 000) but not just for being close to El Torcal. Known as the "heart of Andalucía" with its dolmens, Roman baths, a Moorish Castle, Gothic churches, Renaissance fountains and baroque bell towers. Antequera was the first of the Granada emirate towns to fall to the Christians in 1410.
http://www.andaluciacoastandcountry.com/antequera.html

The article "A Tapas Tour of Antequera" should give you some ideas of great places to eat in this fascinating town. I've lived in Hotel Castilla and can recommend the adjoining bar/restaurant mentioned in the article.
http://www.andaluciacoastandcountry.com/tapaspain.html

Here's a good site on hotels in Antequera with lots of guest reviews. Hotel Castilla is basic and OK, but I would now have chosen nearby Coso viejo. Also a couple of more luxcurious options.
http://www.booking.com/searchresults...r_month=2010-3

darnestown

In March 2009 my wife and I drove from Nerja to Granada, spending two nights there. The Alahambra was spectacular and Granada offered other good sights and restaurants. From there we spent a night in Ronda and then drove onto Seville via Arcos de Frontera. We were disappointed in Arcos... it was small, quiet and uninteresting. Frankly, we found it dull.

kimhe

When in Nerja:

If you are into fish and seafood, I highly recommend these two excellent restaurants/tapas bars. Both are very popular with locals.
La Marina (my #1 choice in Nerja):
http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjatapasguide/la-marina/
El Pulguilla:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjatapasguide/el-pulguilla/
(free tapas to chose with every glass of wine, beer etc. in most places around town. About 1,50€ almost everywhere)

Among the traditional Spanish restaurants (they also serve tapas at the bar), I will recommend
El Niño (private photos of the legendary flamenco singer Camarón de la Isla on the walls):
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandrestaurants/el-nino/
Mesón Pata Negra: http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...ts/pata-negra/
and Mesón Antonio (Here I've had the best Iberian ham/ Jamón Ibérico in Nerja)
http://www.nerjatoday.com/barsandres...on-de-antonio/

If reopened after road/building works, you might try the excellent Andalusian food at innovative Casa Luque on Plaza Cavana:
http://www.casaluque.com/restaurant-in-nerja.php

Sollun is a relatively new gourmet restaurant that has got great reviews (haven't been there myself). Eight course tasting menu at 45€.
http://www.sollunrestaurante.com/UK/index.html
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalusia.html

Two more tapas bars/restaurants that must be added for great atmosphere and a wide selection of tapas:
Sevillano:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjatapasguide/sevillano/
Los Cuñaos:
http://www.nerjatoday.com/nerjatapasguide/los-cunaos/

Egbert

Granada for 2 nights

weber6560

For superb seafood try Sanlucar de Barrameda. Not overrun with tourists.

Marija

It's an easy drive from Nerja to Granada and definitely "worth it" to see the Alhambra. After Ronda, Arcos just didn't impress and driving in it is a nightmare.

kanadajin

WOW !!! I really appreciate all this very pointed information, sincere thanks to all who have responded !

In reading the replies, I realized I had forgotten to mention that we have already been to Granada too, and seen the Alhambra. (simply too obvious I suppose, lol!)

I am now leaning towards Antequera, as it seems to be quite interesting, and it also happens to be located about half-way between Nerja and Sevilla.

Kimhe, thanks for all the internet site pointers - I will be looking at them for both Antequera and Nerja (it will be our 2nd time to the latter). Unfortunately I cannot eat fish and seafood, but the other restaurant recommendations will be handy. I have yet to make it to Pata Negra, but we have eaten at Dal Toscana which we really enjoyed for italian fare.

Regarding Antequera lodging, did any of you have already stayed there since it reopened after renovations in 2009? It seems to be a pretty hip-looking place.

Again, thanks for this invaluable info.
kanadajin

kanadajin

Ooops, I meant to say the Parador at Antequera, as compared to some of the other options (this is what happens when you try to type too fast !)

kimhe

Nerja restaurants:

Napul'e is a new and excellent Italian restaurant:
http://www.tripadvisor.com/Restauran...Andalusia.html

Lan Sang serves delicious food from Laos and Thailand:
http://www.lansang.com/

kimhe

Some more precise tips regarding Antequera:

1. The beautiful La Colegiata de Santa María la Mayor, the first partly Renaissance-style church in Spain. Situated on a beautiful and peaceful square (with a great little bar/restaurant in the corner) overlooking the recently excavated Roman baths and looking up on the 13th century Moorish alcazaba/fortress.
http://www.andalucia.org/turismo-cul...aria-la-mayor/

2. The 5-6000 years old dolmens (burial places) on the outskirts of town, facing the mythical Peña de los enamorados/Lovers' rock"
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Cueva_de_Menga
http://www.typicallyspanish.com/news...le_18509.shtml

3. The Museo Municipal at Plaza del Cozo has arguably got the finest piece of Roman sculpture found in Spain, the Efebo de Antequera/The Youth of Antequera. Also a very interesting first floor that bear witness of the towns history on the border between Christian and Moslem Spain before the final takeover of Granada in 1492.
http://traveldk.com/andalucia/dk/mus...ipal-antequera

4. The Carmelitas Descalzas (the barefoot Carmelite nuns) sell cakes in their convent: "Inside the heavy wooden entrance, there is a small counter with a display of bakery products and prices, next to a revolving wooden door. You pull a rope which rings a bell, and then hear a woman's voice say "Sí" after which you give your order and place your money on the tray. The hidden nun then spins the tray around, with the pastries emerging from the door."
http://www.andalucia.com/antequera/monuments.htm

kanadajin

Thanks again. We have secured accomodations in Antequera - it sounds as if it will be a very good place to spend those 2 days.

This board has been most helpful, once again.
Gracias a todos.

kanadajin

Kimhe, I just thought I would write again as we recently returned from Spain.

I wanted to thank you as your suggestion of Antequera was perfect since we actually really enjoyed it! I did not realize how much there is to this quaint little spanish town. We did visit the 3 dolmens, went hiking in El Torcal, went up to the Alcazaba, etc. Also had a great dinner at the Parador there - I am mentionning this as in our experience the Parador restaurants are a little bit of a hit and miss thing - the Antequera one was definitely a hit with us.

BTW, some other highlight meals on this trip included Viniera San Telmo and Abantal in Sevilla, Pata Negra, Dal Toscano and Udo Heimer in Nerja, Orixe in Madrid, etc.

Muchas gracias una vez mas !
kanadajin

kimhe

Good to hear that you liked Antequera! Will try out Dal Toscano next time in Nerja, and Cava Baja and Orixe is on my Madrid path for late May.